A large amount of heat escapes through an uninsulated attic, for which money is paid. As a result, the room temperature does not rise and utility costs rise. The only way out is to insulate the cold attic with inexpensive building materials. If you have time and extra money, you can insulate the roof, but this is not necessary, because it is enough to insulate the ceiling from the attic side and all the heat will remain in the room.

What is the insulation of the attic for?

If the attic is not insulated, the likelihood of fungus formation in the room increases.

The floor area in a private house is equal to the area of ​​the ceiling through which most of the heat escapes. In a cold living space, more moisture forms, so the likelihood of fungus formation increases, which leads to respiratory diseases in the future. The most unpleasant sensations arise in the bathroom, the floor and walls in which do not have time to dry out, discomfort is created, in addition, the cold in the bathroom contributes to colds when there is a sharp change in temperature. Children in such conditions are more likely to get sick.

Most of the insulating materials drain water well, therefore, when insulating, condensation will not accumulate on the walls. Warm air dries up excess moisture, while walls and floors are warmed up.

If you insulate the roof slopes and the pediment, moisture will not form in the attic and the smell of mold will not be heard. This is more challenging work, but doable because the materials are light in weight.

It is best to carry out work on the insulation of the attic with your own hands, so as not to spend extra money on wages. It is necessary to choose a heater according to its technical characteristics, calculate its quantity and install it according to the available technologies. The whole work can take 1 day.

Materials for thermal insulation

On the insulation market, you can find both natural and artificial materials. Their difference lies in cost, efficiency, service life, coefficient of thermal conductivity.

Mineral wool

Basalt wool

Mineral wool or its varieties - glass wool, basalt insulation, slag wool - are distinguished by an increased coefficient of thermal conductivity due to the structure of randomly located fibers. Cold air in winter does not penetrate into the room from the outside, and in summer it is cool in it, since cotton wool does not allow air currents cooled by air conditioning to pass through.

• The material does not crumble and does not cause an allergic reaction. You can work with stone wool without protective equipment.
• Service life is about 50 years.
• Volcanic rock mineral wool comes in different densities - you can choose the appropriate option for any region, including the coldest.
• Basalt wool is a lightweight material, so one person can cope with its installation.
• Basalt mineral wool does not burn. It can be melted with very high temperatures, so the attic will be safe.

Additional advantages of basalt insulation is the reduction of the noise level in the room, since sound waves cannot pass through the layer of air located among the fibers. At the same time, the denser the material, the smaller the air gap and the more sounds it passes through, so the insulation can be chosen with average values ​​of thermal conductivity and sound insulation.

Basalt insulation can be used to insulate the chimney, then even more heat will remain in the room where there is a stove or fireplace.

When using glass wool and slag wool, you will have to wear a protective suit, glasses and gloves, as thin fibers break and can get into the respiratory system, eyes and skin. These materials are also non-combustible, but they melt at much lower temperatures. In this case, the material loses its structure and useful properties.

Styrofoam

Polyfoam does not make the ceiling structure heavier, however, it has a low strength factor

Insulation of an attic in a house with a cold roof can be done with foam. This material also has advantages:

• Low weight and cost.
• Does not emit harmful substances when heated, therefore it is chemically neutral and safe.
• Contains a flame retardant that does not support combustion.
• Microorganisms and mold do not start in the foam.
• Does not make the ceiling structure heavier.

Disadvantages:

• Low coefficient of strength, therefore additional protection of the material is required in the form of boards laid on top with support on logs. This will take extra expense and time.
• The material does not allow air to pass through, therefore dampness and condensation may form in the room.
• Rodents, which are found in private houses, damage the foam, build holes from it, so additional coverage is needed.

Styrofoam is used most often for outdoor work under plaster. As insulation for an attic in a private house, it is not profitable - it requires large investments to protect the material itself.

It is more profitable to insulate the ceiling with foam in a house with a cold roof from the inside, but this can lower the ceilings.

Penoplex (expanded polystyrene)

Thanks to the spongy structure, the foam is easy to cut

Insulation Penoplex is made from granules of synthetic material polystyrene or polystyrene foam. This is a heater, which is a porous structure with separately located cells. The honeycombs do not touch each other, which is a positive quality on the one hand, and a negative aspect on the other. The fact is that polystyrene foam does not allow moisture to pass through well, it will accumulate inside the room, causing dampness.

The advantage of polystyrene is its cost and low thickness. The air inside makes up 98% of the total volume of the material, which is why it is so cheap. Compared to stone wool, the thermal conductivity is lower. To achieve good thermal insulation, it is necessary to buy thicker polystyrene foam, which will cost more.

Penoplex is flammable, therefore, in terms of fire safety, it is absolutely useless. The melting temperature is 75 degrees, so it should not be laid next to heating devices. In the attic, this could be the chimney from the stove.

Polyurethane foam

Insulation with polyurethane foam

In terms of service life, as well as heat-retaining characteristics, it is worth paying attention to polyurethane foam, which is applied by spraying. In this case, there is no need to construct logs for laying mineral wool or expanded clay, to save money by purchasing cheap fragile materials.

In a short time, you can create a monolithic floor in the attic, in which rodents will not settle, mold will not start, and cracks will not appear. When using polyurethane foam, you do not have to buy additional vapor and waterproofing.

Bulk expanded clay

Expanded clay is resistant to fire and moisture

You can insulate the attic with expanded clay. It is a durable material that is used in bulk from prepared cells. If you need to move around the attic, you will have to build a floor on wooden logs from above. Advantages of expanded clay:

• strength;
• durability;
• does not absorb moisture;
• keeps warm well;
• allows air to pass through;
• can be used in combination with other materials, which is preferable.

Most often, expanded clay is combined with mineral wool or polyurethane foam is sprayed on it, so as not to waste time on the construction of the frame.

Insulation layer thickness

Thermal insulation materials of any density can be used to insulate an attic in a house with a cold roof, since the room is not residential. If you plan to lay mineral wool on roof slopes, you can prepare material of lower density and thickness, since as a result, the ceiling insulation will be double, but laid in two places.

For the convenience of moving along the soft insulation, it is necessary to build paths made of wood or other material so as not to violate the properties when the heat-insulating layer is compressed.

Preparing the attic for insulation

The attic is prepared for insulation

Before starting work, it is necessary to calculate the area of ​​the room and the amount of building materials. The main thing is the thickness of the insulation, which is needed in the middle lane, where the temperature can drop to minus 30 degrees. The thickness of the mineral wool should be at least 20 cm.

After calculations:

• Remove all debris and dust so that the sealant does not absorb it.
• Fill roof gaps with construction foam.
• Remove sharp objects. They can damage the protective layer of the cotton wool.

After cleaning, you can bring in building materials, tools, as well as an additional backlight lamp.

Vapor barrier

Vapor barrier is a prerequisite when working with mineral wool

According to the laws of physics, warm air saturated with steam will always rise upward, passing through walls and ceilings. This process is called diffusion.

Different materials have different degrees of vapor permeability. Condensation or moisture build-up between floors can be highly resistant to diffusion. In such places, the floors are usually made of wood, and the wood, saturated with moisture, loses its strength.

When the lower room warms up, and the upper one is cold, a vapor barrier is required. In the case of stone wool, you can buy a material with a hydrophobic coating that will not let steam into the cold room above, where water droplets form from it.

In technical documentation, there are two concepts: vapor resistance and vapor permeability coefficient. These are different concepts.

To organize the vapor barrier, two materials are used - a film to cover the entire area and adhesive tapes to connect the layers of hydrophobic insulation so that steam does not penetrate into the cracks.

The characteristics by which a vapor barrier is chosen should take into account strength (plastic film is not suitable), resistance to ultraviolet radiation, since the sun's rays sometimes enter the windows, which can damage the materials.

Waterproofing

Installation of a waterproofing layer

To protect the attic from flooding, and ceilings and repairs from water drips, it is recommended to lay a layer of waterproofing material on the roof slopes.

• Weldable - overlapped and connected with a torch. The cheapest option is synthetic materials.
• Sprayable. A one-piece membrane film is created.
• Powder. Water is added to it just before installation.
• Liquid - suitable for concrete floors, absorbing into their surface.
• Bitumen-based coating.

Before you buy waterproofing, you need to re-read the properties: the material should allow air to pass through, but retain water. Some cheap films create a greenhouse effect in a cold, unheated attic, causing the walls to grow moldy.

As many remember from the school physics course, the warm air in the room rises, and the cold air, accordingly, falls. It is through the uninsulated attic and the roof that the house loses 15 to 30% of its heat! Usually the attic is insulated when building a house, but if necessary, you can also insulate the attic in a private old house.

Roof insulation

We insulate the attic of a new house

As a rule, they begin to insulate the attic after the roof is completed: the covering is laid, the wind insulation is made. First, the floor is insulated, and if the layer of thermal insulation material is reliable enough, you can take your time with the insulation of the roof slopes and gables.

Keep in mind that you can start insulating the attic of a wooden house only after the building has shrunk. Usually this is done not earlier than six months after the end of construction, although shrinkage can last more than a year. Sometimes, when shrinking, wooden structures are warped or cracks appear in them. Before starting work in the attic, these shortcomings should be eliminated.

For work you will need

1. Insulation (chipboard plates, mineral wool, expanded polystyrene, polyurethane foam, expanded clay, sawdust with clay, etc.).
2. Materials for arranging steam and thermal insulation:
   • vapor barrier foil (polypropylene or polyethylene film, metallized membrane or fiberglass membrane);
   • single or double-sided adhesive tape for sealing the seams between foil sheets;
   • felt or polyurethane tape for heat and sound insulation of the floor.
3. Tool for cutting insulation (mineral wool, expanded polystyrene plates) and finishing materials (chipboard, lining, drywall, etc.).
4. Boards, plywood, lining or drywall boards.
5. Nails, hammer.
6. Construction stapler and staples.
7. Safety goggles, respirator and gloves for working with mineral wool.

Keep in mind that the following methods of insulating the attic are used in cases where it is not heated and is used as a warehouse, summer workshop, etc. However, if the attic will be heated or used as a summer residential attic, the slopes and walls should be additionally sheathed with moisture-resistant plasterboard and paint, and lay plates of expanded polystyrene or chipboard on the floor.

We insulate the space under the roof

Many probably noticed that in old village houses only the floor of the attic is often insulated, but not the roof. The fact is that the sloping surface of the gable roof holds the layer of snow well - it also serves as an additional "blanket" for the roof. Even in severe frosts, the temperature under the slopes rarely drops below zero degrees. In the attic space, small windows are made that open for ventilation in the summer heat.

In the attic, which will be used as a utility room, the space under the roof will have to be insulated. For self-insulation, it is convenient to use sheet insulation (expanded polystyrene, mineral wool mats) or rolled mineral wool. The density of mineral wool insulation is 10-55 kg / sq. m. Sometimes these heaters are used together: the first layer is fixed with expanded polystyrene, the second - mineral wool.

Before fixing the insulation between the rafters, a vapor barrier foil is nailed onto the crate with a construction stapler. The joints are sealed with insulating tape, but you can also overlap the foil. Foil mineral wool mats can also be used. In this case, no additional vapor barrier is required.

Usually, the required thickness of the sheets of insulation is slightly greater than the thickness of the rafter legs. Make thickening "padding" on them and nail in perpendicular pieces of wood or steel battens. Place an additional layer of insulation between them, then fix it with thin slats, and stuff a wooden covering on top. In residential attics, you can complete the finish with plasterboard.

We insulate the floor

As in the previous case, before laying out the insulation, a vapor barrier is made (for example, from foil-clad polyisol). When arranging a floor slab, the film is laid on top of it; when insulating a wooden floor, it is nailed with an overlapping stapler.

1. Thermal insulation of a concrete floor. If a reinforced concrete slab serves as the overlap, materials with a high density (> 160 kg / sq. M) are used to arrange thermal insulation. These are mineral wool or cork mats, extruded polystyrene foam, and expanded clay from bulk materials.
2. Thermal insulation of a wooden floor. Insulation in wooden floors is placed between the logs. Usually these are cotton wool insulation with a low density (< 50 кг/кв.м). Поверх утеплителя желательно настелить рубероид, а в качестве чистового пола уложить плиты ДСП.

Thermal insulation of the attic of an old house

Before starting work on the insulation of the attic of an old house, carefully inspect it. Check for cracks in the rafters and pediments, what is the safety of the floor. It may be that some of the beams will have to be replaced, or it may be necessary to additionally insulate the roof. Wooden parts must be impregnated with special moisture and fire-resistant solutions and an antiseptic solution against fungus and pests.

It is also necessary to perform a number of preparatory work. If the attic of the old house was insulated earlier, and the insulation has not lost its properties, additional insulation materials can be laid on top of the existing ones. For example, on top of a floor insulated with clay and sawdust, you can install a crate and lay mineral wool. Thus, "the initial level of the floor turns out to be" rough ".

Otherwise, the old insulation should be removed, and a new modern one with a higher complex of operational properties should be laid on top of it. After additional insulation, a new final floor is laid.

Features of working with common heaters

Basic requirements for insulation materials:

1. relatively low weight (this is especially important in houses with wooden floors);
2. non-toxicity;
3. ease of processing;
4. fire resistance;
5. moisture resistance;
6. good heat and sound insulating properties.

Modern insulating materials meet all these requirements to one degree or another. The most popular of them are polyurethane foam, expanded polystyrene, mineral (fiberglass and basalt) wool. In brick and stone houses with strong reinforced concrete ceilings, insulation is sometimes used "the old fashioned way". This can be done using inexpensive environmentally friendly expanded clay or clay mixed with sawdust.

Mineral wool

Insulation of an attic with mineral wool is the most inexpensive and at the same time acceptable in quality way of insulating attic rooms. Mineral wool has excellent heat and sound insulation properties, and its elasticity makes it easy to mount on rafters. In addition, it is non-flammable and not susceptible to biological pests. Mineral wool is sold in the form of mats or in rolls.

Mineral wool insulation

The most effective heat insulator is considered to be mineral wool slabs with so-called "randomly oriented fibers". A mineral wool slab with a thickness of only half a centimeter in terms of thermal protection properties replaces almost a meter of brickwork! At the same time, it is light enough and does not create additional load on the floors. Mineral wool is a durable material, its service life is at least 50 years.

When working with mineral wool, remember that it contains a certain amount of formaldehyde. In addition, the smallest mineral wool "needles" are dangerous for the eyes and for the respiratory system and irritate the skin of the hands. Therefore, it is necessary to cut and even more to lay the mineral wool in goggles, a respirator and gloves. Construction masks-respirators can also be used.

Polyurethane foam (PPU)

Polyurethane foam refers to a liquid heat insulator and is applied to any surface (wood, brick, stone, concrete) by spraying. Today it is considered the most effective thermal insulation building material. When processing with polyurethane foam, a durable, bass-based covering is created, so there will never be drafts in the insulated attic.

Insulation with polyurethane foam

By itself, polyurethane foam is an expensive material. However, before applying it, you do not need to do vapor barrier and waterproofing, and working with it is much easier than with other heat insulators. They can handle both the space under the roof between the rafters, and the voids between the logs of the wooden floor, and reinforced concrete floors.

Polyurethane foam can reduce heat loss by almost 30% (in comparison with other materials for thermal insulation). By spending a large amount of money to buy it, in winter you will save twice on heating.

Expanded polystyrene

Inexpensive, lightweight and durable extruded polystyrene foam sheets are commonly used in older houses with hardwood floors. It keeps heat well and does not weigh down the supporting structures; it is easy to cut (with a sharp stationery knife or saw) and mount. Its other advantages are moisture resistance (it does not absorb moisture) and environmental friendliness.

To insulate the space under the roof and floor, plates 10-15 centimeters thick are used in two layers. The first is fixed between the logs, and the second is laid on top of them. The structure is fixed with slats, a vapor barrier is laid on top (for example, "Izospan"), and then upholstered with plywood or clapboard.

It is worth insulating the attic with polystyrene foam if you will use it as a technical or utility room. But if you are going to arrange, for example, a workshop in the attic, it is not recommended to use it. This material has little to no noise protection and is unstable to organic solvents that can spill onto the floor or evaporate into the air. Some types of Styrofoam are fire resistant, but in general it is considered a flammable material.

Expanded clay

Expanded clay is an inexpensive and quite effective natural heat-insulating material that is used for thermal insulation of foundations and floors. It can be used in attics with reinforced concrete floors, as it creates a significant load on the beams. An effective layer of expanded clay on an area of ​​100 square meters, according to GOST, is poured in a layer up to 60 centimeters, while the weight of the backfill is about 30 tons! In non-residential attics, the insulating layer may be smaller (25-40 centimeters), and in this case they do not make a concrete screed, but it often turns out to be overwhelming for the attic floor of a wooden house.

Warming with expanded clay

Insulation of the attic with expanded clay has some features in comparison with other materials. Since this is a porous material that absorbs moisture, not only vapor barrier, but also waterproofing should be laid under the expanded clay backfill. It can be roofing material or ordinary plastic film, which is better to be laid with a single sheet, and not welded from several sheets.

It is not recommended to use polyethylene for a wooden floor, since the tree covered with it will not "breathe" - it is preferable to use "Izospan" as a vapor barrier.

For insulation, expanded clay of 10-15 mm fraction is used, which is poured into a wooden frame ("box") made around the perimeter of the room. A vapor barrier membrane is also laid on top of the expanded clay layer. Despite the good thermal insulation properties of expanded clay, experts do not recommend using it specifically for thermal insulation of attics. If the attic is already insulated with expanded clay, its layer is insufficient, but you cannot completely change the insulation, remove the sub-floor and put mineral wool on the expanded clay (under the upper vapor barrier membrane).

Sawdust and clay

In the days of our grandmothers, dry leaves, straw, and hay were placed on the attic floor in order to “keep from blowing”. But the most common and affordable way to make the house cozy was to insulate the attic with sawdust and clay. It is very simple to insulate an attic in a country house or in a wooden cottage in the old way. It is important that this method of insulation will cost you almost free.

Insulation with sawdust and clay

Prepare the solution:

• dilute the clay to thickened milk;
• add enough sawdust into the solution so that the solution can be mixed. It looks like it will be just wet sawdust, slightly smeared with clay;
• pour the mixture on the floor of the attic with a layer of 15 centimeters, level and tamp.

After the mixture is dry, you will get a very dense, slightly springy floor covering. From above, you can pour another five centimeters of wet sawdust and tamp it again. A mixture of clay with sawdust keeps heat well, and besides, such a floor "breathes". Fill the floor with a thin layer of lime, and top up with straw, chaff, or dry sawdust.

There are dozens of ways to insulate an attic floor, in which hundreds of insulation models are used, but mineral wool is still the most popular material.

The only problem is that not all amateurs know how to properly insulate an attic with mineral wool in a private house. Therefore, further we will analyze the technology and important nuances of the process.

Preparatory part

This includes:

• choice cotton wool and related materials;
• payment the required amount of material;

Choice of mineral wool

Stone or mineral wool is the name of a whole trend, in which there are dozens of different models. If you start from the name, then this includes all soft insulation made from rocks, the most famous option is basalt wool.

A number of sources also include glass wool and slag wool here. In the first case, glass is taken as a basis, and slag wool is made from blast-furnace slag (a by-product of blast furnace production).

All materials are good, but which one is better is a moot point. I must say right away that if you take material from a well-promoted brand, then there is not much difference in quality.

It is much more important to choose the type of material.

There are 2 types of such insulation:

1. Soft mats, which are sold rolled into rolls.
2. Dense slabs.

Theoretically, the insulation of the ceiling from the side of the cold attic can be carried out with both options, but from experience, it is better to give preference to dense slabs.

The price of slabs is slightly higher, but this material does not shrink over time, plus, when wet, some models of slabs can be dried without loss of volume and quality.

As for soft mats, here you buy a pig in a poke, well-known manufacturers make a good product, but it's not a fact that you won't buy a fake.

Such mats are inexpensive, but in an attic space, they lose volume in a couple of years.

Related materials

With related materials, this is the case. Any cotton wool is afraid of moisture, in order to protect it, a vapor barrier membrane is needed.

It is a canvas that allows steam to pass in only one direction; neither steam nor moisture passes from the back side.

Important! Steam moves from the room to the street or to the attic, so the membrane is laid with a vapor-permeable side to the room, i.e. way down.

Material calculation

• With attic floor area it's simple - the length is multiplied by the width. Plus 5% for shrinkage and trimming.
• Material thickness depends on the climatic zone. In central Russia, for warming the attic floor with mineral wool, the thickness of the slabs is 100 mm, the mats are taken 150 mm. Accordingly, the farther north, the thicker the layer.

Advice! If you expect to lay slabs, for example, 100 mm thick, then it is better to take 2 slabs 50 mm thick and lay them with a shift. So the joints overlap and there will be no cold bridges.

Insulation of the attic of the house with mineral wool

In a private house, the ceiling can be concrete and wood (along the beams). The insulation technology of these options is similar, but there are still differences.

Insulation of the attic along the beams

The instructions for insulating the beam floor are similar to the arrangement of roofs with an inclined rafter system, so if you wish, using this technology, you can completely insulate the attic.

Laying technology:

1. The first layer is a vapor barrier membrane(rough side down). Rolls are rolled across the beams and overlapped by 100 mm; with such an overlap, it is not necessary to glue the joint of the canvases with tape. The material is fixed with a stapler.

1. The slab or roll of mineral wool is cut 20 mm wider than the distance between the beams. This tolerance will allow the material to be laid without gaps. As already mentioned, it is advisable to lay the insulation apart to cover the joints.
2. When insulating with stone wool from the upper edge of the material a gap of 30–50 mm is left to the edge of the beam. It is necessary for arranging ventilation ducts.
3. The next layer is vapor barrier, it is placed in the same way as the lower one (with a vapor-permeable layer down). If you mix it up, then condensation will accumulate under the membrane and the insulation will get wet. The membrane is attached with slight sagging between the beams.

Photo of the arrangement of the ventilation duct under the vapor barrier

1. A counter-rail is stuffed on top of the beams and the floor is mounted on it. Often times, the subfloor in the attic is stuffed directly onto the joists.

The video shows the process of insulation on beams:

Insulation of the attic by floor slabs

Insulation of the attic floor over a concrete floor is somewhat similar to the previous version.

Only the choice of materials is slightly different:

1. Liquid waterproofing. The concrete floor is cold and condensation can settle here. To prevent the cotton wool from pulling moisture from the concrete, instead of a vapor barrier, the slab is covered with waterproofing.

1. Lags. Further, wooden logs are attached to the floor slab. You select the thickness of the timber according to the thickness of the insulation, plus the ventilation gap.
2. Insulation. After that, insulation is laid between the lags, just like along the beams.
3. Vapor barrier. From above, the cotton wool is covered with a vapor barrier - it is needed so that excess moisture can go up.
4. Rough floor. Now the subfloor can be laid on the logs.

Output

Mineral wool for insulating attic floors with your own hands is excellent. Both options presented above have been tested in practice. The main thing is to take into account all the nuances that were mentioned.

The issue of building insulation is now more acute than ever. Most begin with wall insulation, but this is where it ends, however, as you know, warm air tends to rise and go through the roof, so the insulation of the attic floor plays an important role. As with all construction work, insulation should be carried out with high quality. But how to insulate an attic floor to get the most out of it?

When choosing insulation for an attic floor, it is important to take into account its heat-shielding properties, strength, as well as resistance to external factors. The type of flooring will also play a role: concrete and wooden floors have their own characteristics. So, how to insulate the attic floor?

Popular insulation for the attic floor

Types of heaters:

• Basalt mineral wool.
• Expanded clay.
• Styrofoam.
• Sawdust.

Mineral wool

Most often, the insulation of the attic floor is carried out with the help of mineral wool. What are its features and why is this insulation so popular?

Minvata is laid between the wooden beams of the attic floor

Benefits of mineral wool:

• High thermal insulation. For example, to insulate an attic floor with mineral wool, a layer thickness of 3.5 times less than when using expanded clay is needed.
• Ease of material installation. This insulation is not difficult to work with, even for those who are engaged in insulation for the first time.
• Fire safety. Mineral wool is not easily flammable, therefore, when a fire occurs, it does not serve as a fast carrier of fire, which, for example, cannot be said about expanded polystyrene.
• Long operational period. If you properly cover the mineral wool, it will not roll and create cold bridges.
• Affordable price.

It is thanks to all these advantages that mineral wool insulation of the attic floor is a widely used method of saving heat in a room.

However, this insulation also has disadvantages. In particular, due to its ability to absorb moisture, the mineral wool insulation layer may no longer provide the same thermal insulation as before. Also, when insulating the attic floor with mineral wool, it is important to observe safety precautions. Mineral wool fibers, when in contact with the skin, can cause irritation, so you should work with it in tight clothing, glasses, a respirator and, of course, gloves.

Expanded clay

Another material for insulating the attic floor is expanded clay. Although this insulation is rarely used, it still has several advantages.

Expanded clay - very popular in the earlier heat insulator

Advantages of expanded clay:

• The cost of insulation.
• Good thermal insulation performance. However, in order to achieve a really good result, the thickness of the expanded clay layer should be about 35-40 centimeters.
• Fire safety.

However, expanded clay as insulation also has significant disadvantages:

• More weight compared to other heaters. Thermal insulation of a wooden attic floor creates a load on the beams, therefore, when choosing expanded clay, this moment should be taken into account.
• Inconvenience when styling. It can take a lot of effort to lift a huge amount of expanded clay into the attic.

Styrofoam

Polyfoam is one of the best materials for wall insulation, so some people decide to use it for thermal insulation of the attic floor. Although foam has advantages, it is not recommended to use it.

Attic roof insulated with foam from below

Benefits of Styrofoam:

• Moisture resistance. This is a plus compared to the widely used mineral wool.
• Affordable price.
• Easy to install. It is not difficult to lift the foam sheets and lay them on the attic floor.

Despite these advantages, foam as insulation has a number of significant disadvantages.

Disadvantages of Styrofoam:

• High flammability. If the fire reaches the insulation, it will hardly be possible to extinguish the fire.
• Intolerance to high temperatures. At a temperature of + 60 ° C, the material deforms, at + 80 ° C it begins to melt, which is why toxic substances are released, and at + 210 ° C the foam ignites.
• Fragility. Polyfoam is capable of crumbling, which reduces its thermal insulation properties.

In view of these shortcomings, especially the insecurity in the event of a fire, it is better not to use polystyrene as insulation for a wooden attic floor. After all, combining foam with wood beams is very dangerous. However, this insulation can be used for thermal insulation of a concrete floor.

Sawdust

This method of insulation was very popular earlier, before the advent of modern thermal insulation materials. It is not devoid of its advantages, although they are very insignificant in comparison with other heaters.

Sawdust benefits:

• The absence of toxic substances, as well as the natural origin of the insulation.
• Relatively affordable price.

If we talk about the shortcomings of sawdust, then we can note:

• The need to prepare a solution consisting of sawdust, cement, lime and water. All other insulation materials are purchased ready-made.
• Large weight, which creates additional load on the floor.
• Large thickness of the insulation layer.

Important! After analyzing all the advantages and disadvantages of different heaters, many come to the conclusion that mineral wool is an ideal option, because it has high thermal insulation properties, is fireproof, easy to install, and also has an affordable price. As for its shortcomings, hygroscopicity can be compensated for by installing vapor barrier and waterproofing, and the inconvenience when laying mineral wool - by observing safety rules.

Installation process

Having decided on the material for thermal insulation, the question arises: how to properly insulate the attic floor? If we talk about mineral wool, what density should it have and what layer of insulation will be the best?

The choice of layer and density of mineral wool

Mineral wool insulation is best done in two layers

In short, the larger the layer of mineral wool, the better. However, it must be remembered that mineral wool has its own coefficient of specific thermal conductivity. The lower this coefficient, the higher the thermal insulation properties, and, therefore, you can lay a smaller layer of cotton wool or have a higher insulation efficiency. Often, mineral wool with a thickness of 15-20 centimeters is used, however, to provide increased thermal insulation, a 30-centimeter layer of insulation can also be used. It is also worth noting that with an equal thickness of insulation, two layers of mineral wool are always better than one.

You also need to pay attention to the density of mineral wool, because it can be different: from 30 kg / m 3 to 220 kg / m 3. Thermal insulation properties practically do not depend on density. A denser insulation is used for facades and screed floors. Mineral wool with a density of 35 kg / m 3 is also suitable for the attic floor, because the insulation will be on a horizontal unloaded surface.

Vapor barrier

Since mineral wool has the ability to absorb moisture, you need to start insulation with the installation of a vapor barrier material.

Vapor barrier - the first layer of insulation

Important! It is best to lay a layer of vapor barrier under wooden beams, otherwise they will be very susceptible to decay. Nevertheless, if it is impossible to put a vapor barrier film under the beams, they must be soaked in solutions that protect against decay and mold.

The best option is to lay a continuous layer of vapor barrier, but due to the size of the attic this is not always possible, so all joints must be glued with special tape to ensure tightness. The edges of the vapor barrier must be raised above the level of the future insulation and glued with the same tape.

Thermal insulation

You need to work with heat-insulating materials in overalls.

This is followed by the installation of insulation. It must be laid in such a way as to completely fill all the space between the timber beams. When it comes to mineral wool, then it does not need to be pressed or squeezed. It must completely cover the space between the beams, leaving no gaps or gaps. The floor beams themselves, too, will not be superfluous to cover with heat-insulating material, because they can serve as a kind of cold bridges.

When laying mineral wool, it is very important to protect yourself, and especially your respiratory tract, from the ingress of insulation fibers. Therefore, you need to use a respirator, as well as gloves, goggles and long-sleeved clothing.

Waterproofing

We complete the insulation of the attic floor with waterproofing and a sub-floor

Due to the properties of mineral wool to absorb moisture, waterproofing should be laid on top of a layer of mineral wool. It is also necessary if a concrete screed will be poured over the insulation.

If the attic is in constant use, a sub-floor can be made on top of this insulating “pie”. It can be a concrete screed or OSB slabs. If the attic is practically not used, then you can simply lay the boards on top of the already existing beams. Then, if necessary, go up to the attic, moving around it will not create difficulties.

As you can see, insulating an attic floor is an affordable task, even for those who have never done it. It is necessary to decide on the material for thermal insulation, although most often it is mineral wool that serves as it. When assembling the heat-insulating "pie", it is important to remember the need for vapor barrier and waterproofing. This will allow you to achieve high results in warming the attic floor.

Video: discussing the construction of the floor in detail

An overview of the structural details of the attic floor insulation device. What is a sufficient layer of insulation for a cold attic? What are the specifics of laying the attic floor insulation?

Insulating an attic in a private house is a very important measure that allows you to save internal heat. Today, the attic can be insulated using a variety of insulation materials.

And if earlier, the attic was insulated with sawdust and expanded clay, today, preference is given to such modern thermal insulation materials as mineral wool, polystyrene foam, polyurethane foam, etc.

It is advisable to note that the properties and characteristics of all thermal insulation materials are different. Some of them are subject to burning, others are not. Some heaters, for example, are "afraid" of moisture, while others are not afraid of it. Therefore, before insulating an attic in a private house, it is very important to choose a high-quality and reliable insulation for these purposes.

Today the market offers the consumer a variety, so there is, of course, plenty to choose from.

To insulate the attic, you can use insulation such as:

1. Mineral wool;
2. Styrofoam or expanded polystyrene;
3. Polyurethane foam;
4. Blown heaters.

Cheaper materials for insulating an attic in a house are still:

1. Sawdust;
2. Expanded clay, and others.

As you can see, there is no problem with how to insulate the attic in a private house. The main thing is to choose the right high-quality and reliable insulation for these purposes. Well, when choosing such, of course, one should start from its characteristics and properties, which will be described in more detail below.

It is quite easy to insulate the attic with mineral wool, since this material bends easily and takes any shape. In addition, it has a high density, and most importantly, it does not burn, which is very important to consider when choosing an insulation material for the attic.

In addition, mineral wool has a long service life, which is also important. It does not crumble over time, therefore it is excellent for insulating horizontally located surfaces.

The only drawback of mineral wool is that it is able to absorb moisture, and this adversely affects its thermal insulation properties.

In addition to mineral wool, for insulating an attic in a private house, you can also use modern thermal insulation materials such as. The advantages of using expanded polystyrene and polystyrene foam when insulating an attic can be safely attributed to:

1. A light weight;
2. Ease of installation and processing;
3. High thermal insulation performance;
4. Affordable cost;
5. Absolute resistance to moisture, mildew and mildew.

Of course, these two popular insulation materials also have certain disadvantages.

First of all, they include high flammability.

Polyurethane foam is a completely new building material with a number of significant advantages. Along with a high degree of adhesion, with absolutely any type of surface, polyurethane allows you to better seal all joints, cracks and various kinds of defects.

Also, this heat-insulating material has a fairly light weight, so you can absolutely not worry about additional loads on the ceiling. In addition, polyurethane is environmentally friendly, it is not affected by moisture, but it is afraid of harmful UV rays.