Installation of door trims can be done in two fundamentally different ways - as professionals say, with trimming at 45 ° or at 90 °. Regardless of the installation method, this work is quite complex and requires utmost attention. In this article from the site, we will analyze both of these installation methods - we will study not only the sequence of work, but also all the subtleties, as well as the nuances inherent in them.

Installation of a platband on an interior door

Installation of door trims: installation with 45 ° corner trimming

It is not difficult to guess that this method of installing door trims involves trimming the joints of the individual parts of the kit at 45 ° - this is the most common method that is equally suitable for trims with any configuration. For those who do not know, I will say that the profile of door frames can be different: their front surface can represent a flat plane, curved in an arc and even carved, which is typical for products of this type, carved from natural wood.

The whole difficulty of such an installation of the platband is precisely in trimming these corners. If you have a miter saw in your home arsenal, then this is not a problem - it makes a clear and even cut. But if this tool is absent, then it will be difficult, especially when it comes to trimming colored laminated or veneered products of this type. The fact is that even with an electric jigsaw, not to mention a manual hacksaw, it is quite difficult to make an even, accurate and clean cut without chipping the front cover. That is why one cannot do without special devices, there are two of them - this is a miter box and a rotary hand saw.

Installation of platbands on the door

1. The miter box is a rather primitive instrument and not very accurate. This is a kind of template made in the form of a groove, on top of which there are slots. It is they who determine the cutting angle. Over time, and this happens very quickly, the cutting tool breaks the slots, and there can be no question of any accuracy. It is essentially a disposable tool.
2. Rotary hand saw. If you choose a manual tool for installing door trims, then it is better to opt for this option - it is more durable and also allows for more accurate and clean trimming. It is quite easy to work for them - you turn the saw at the desired angle and manually, in the old fashioned way, by moving your hand back and forth, you make a cut.

There is a third way to install door trims with a 45 ° cut - manual. Approaching the solution to this problem in this way, you will have to draw a line yourself and at the same time maintain the required angle, and then make an accurate and accurate cut using an electric jigsaw or a manual hacksaw for metal. In any case, this undertaking will only work if your hands have sufficient dexterity. By the way, professionals have one trick that allows you to minimize the number of chips on the decorative surface in the process of cutting the material - adhesive tape is glued along the cut line, which plays the role of a kind of protection against chips.

You can see how the trimming of platbands at 45 ° without all sorts of devices is performed in the video below.

Installation of wooden platbands: installation with cutting corners at 90 °

This way of solving the question of how to install the platbands on is not suitable for all types of this product. If we are talking about moldings with a clear rectangular section or with small rounded edges, then you can't think of anything better. This installation method consists in the fact that the strips are connected at an angle of 90 ° relative to each other. In this case, the upper casing is, as it were, nested between the two lateral ones. It is this moment that makes it easier to trim and fit the joints.

But everything is not so simple here - you can't do without accurate measurements and even, clean, without chips, cuts. Only platbands with an even rectangular configuration, without any rounding of the edges, are ideally joined - in this case, you only have to clearly calculate, down to millimeters, the height of the side platbands and the length of the top rail.

How to install door trims

The situation is a little more complicated with platbands, which have rounded edges - in this case, the usual straight cut cannot be done. Due to rounding, the ends of the upper casing are visible during direct trimming. There is only one way to hide them - to make an oblique cut. The slope should be directed from the front side of the rail to the wrong side - in general, the docking remains at 90 °.

If we are talking about installing platbands with your own hands, which have a completely rounded or carved configuration, then this installation method is not suitable - this type of product must be installed with a 45 ° undercut.

How to install platbands correctly: installation technology

So, we have decided on the methods of trimming the corners of the platbands, now it remains to deal directly with the installation process itself from "A" to "Z". Let's present it in the form of a small instruction.

Do-it-yourself installation of platbands

For novice craftsmen who, for sure, on the first try, will not be able to accurately calculate the size of the upper platband, I will tell you a way to get rid of the gaps. If unsightly cracks form in your joints, there is only one way to hide them. This gap must be distributed on both sides of the door block, and then covered with a wax paste designed to eliminate chips on furniture. It is sold in all markets and comes in a variety of colors. As for the rest, the installation of platbands on the door should not cause any problems, the most important thing here is accuracy and accuracy.

Platbands play a decorative role, giving the doorway a complete look. The strips differ in the material of manufacture, shape, color, and also in the method of fastening. Installation of platbands for interior doors is carried out after finishing the walls, but before laying the floor plinth.

In order to correctly install the platbands on interior doors, you first need to select the appropriate elements. First of all, they pay attention to the material of manufacture:

• Products from natural wood are considered universal. The planks can be painted to match the color of the doors. Fasten wooden elements with nails without hats. If the walls are well aligned with the door frame, the platbands are planted on an adhesive - "liquid nails".

• Laminated planks from MDF in appearance they resemble natural wood. Decorative elements are matched to the color of the door. The platbands are fastened with adhesive or nails without caps, after having drilled blind holes.

• Pvc cashing is more suitable for plastic doors. The strips are glued or planted on the mounting profile.

• There are also aluminum and steel casings, but these are commonly found on front doors.

Most planks are given a standard flat, rounded or curly shape.

By fastening method cashing can be invoice or telescopic. The first type of elements is fixed directly to the door frame. The second one is equipped with mounting grooves.

Tools for the job

In order for the installation of door trims to be successful, a tool is prepared in advance.

• To make accurate markings, you will need pencil, tape measure, plumb line, square and level.
• Sawing the workpiece perfectly straight at an angle of 45 degrees will help miter box O.
• Cutting the planks is better miter saw... In its absence, you can use hacksaw for metal... The fine teeth of the blade will not chip off the product.
• For hammering nails or tapping cashing elements, use hammer.

How to cut off the platband?

After marking the angle, the cut and the length of the workpiece are cut, the platband is cut with a miter saw. A feature of the power tool is an adjustable table that is set at the desired angle. In order to cut off the door trims correctly and without chips, the side edges of the workpiece are tightly pressed against the stops on the bed. If there is a gap, the cut will be uneven.

In the absence of an electric saw, a miter box will help to cut the edge of the platband at 45 degrees. It is better to buy a quality tool. Cheap plastic has deformed thrust elements that distort the size of the corner. A hacksaw for cutting is used with fine teeth that do not chip.

How to fix platbands on interior doors?

Simple fastening of flat-shaped platbands is performed at an angle of 90 degrees. The vertical strips fit tightly at the top with the horizontal one. When installing wooden or MDF elements of complex shapes at the ends, they make a cut at an angle of 45 degrees. There are 4 methods for fixing the planks.

With finishing nails

It is easier to nail down a wooden or MDF door casing with nails with flat heads. The fastening is reliable, and if necessary, the strips can be easily dismantled. You can use nails of a different configuration, and so that the caps are not visible, they are removed with side cutters. The length of finishing nails for platbands is chosen about 40 mm. The size can be calculated individually, taking into account the thickness of the cashing. After passing through the strip, the nail must enter at least 20 mm into the body of the door frame.

The attachment points are marked on the blanks, observing the same distance. Usually a pitch of 500 mm is adhered to. Through holes are drilled according to the marking, with a diameter corresponding to the thickness of the nail. After docking with the door frame, the platbands are carefully nailed. For aesthetics, the hats are painted over with a wax pencil.

Liquid nails

To fix the encashment on interior doors without nails, an adhesive is used - liquid nails. The advantage of this method is the absence of a visible fixation point. The downside is the weak fastening, as well as the inconvenience during dismantling. In addition, liquid nails are only applicable if the adjacent walls are perfectly flat.

Platbands are installed on the door after sawing and trying on the blanks. The plank is lubricated from the back with an adhesive and pressed firmly against the wall. To glue the platbands for interior doors, it is enough to hold each strip pressed down for no more than a minute.

Fastening with self-tapping screws

The method is similar to fastening with finishing nails, only self-tapping screws for wood 25 mm long and 6 mm thick are used instead. Places for holes are marked on the workpiece with a pitch of 500 mm. A drill of a similar diameter or with a margin of 1 mm is used.

It is advisable to drown the hats in the body of the strap. On the front side of the workpiece, the hole is expanded with a larger diameter drill to a depth of 1–1.5 mm. Now it remains to attach the platbands to the interior doors with self-tapping screws. It is necessary to tighten the hardware so that the cap goes into the recess. The place of fixation is painted over with a wax pencil.

Beak fastening

The method does not require the use of self-tapping screws, nails or adhesive. The cash is equipped with a beak-shaped lock. The connecting spike is inserted into the recess on the box and pressed until it clicks.

The advantage of this method is the ease of installation and invisibility of the attachment point. A negative point is the delamination of MDF platbands during dismantling. Over time, spontaneous destruction of the joints can be observed, which requires additional processing of the joints with glue.

How to install platbands on interior doors?

When installing interior doors with your own hands, glue, nails or self-tapping screws are used to fix the platbands made of wood or MDF. However, the evenness of the walls and the shape of the planks are taken into account. There should be no gaps at the joints. If the walls adjacent to the end of the door frame are uneven, then it is better to refuse gluing.

Installation of cashing begins from the side where the interior door opens. This is due to the presence of hinges that prevent the strip from being fixed flush with the box element. You will need to make the same indent, and on all three sides for symmetry. Where there are no loops, there is no need for a mandatory indent.

If the door is in a corner, the installation is done with the letter G. If desired, you can cut the element vertically and use a narrow strip.

The platband on one side is installed in the case when the slopes on the other side are refined with tiles or other wall materials.

Docking at an angle of 45

When it is required to install the platbands on the door at an angle of 45 degrees, a miter box is used for marking. Such joining of elements is usually used for strips of curly and rounded shapes. In the absence of a miter box, the markings can be made with a protractor.

The installation procedure consists of the following steps:

Docking at an angle of 90

Fastening of platbands at 90 degrees is performed with horizontal or vertical seams. The choice depends on the preference of the owner. When the door cashing is installed with your own hands at a right angle, the blanks are used only in a flat shape. Places of cuts are treated with varnish or acrylic-based paint.

To put platbands on interior doors, with imitation of a lintel, the upper element is lengthened. Docking is obtained at a 90 degree angle with horizontal seams. The upper bar protrudes beyond the vertical.

Telescopic platbands

Telescopic platbands are fixed on interior doors without nails. The decorative elements are equipped with a special lock consisting of a slot and a groove. Fixation occurs to the end of the box. The main requirement for correct installation of platbands is the presence of a ledge. It is formed when the door frame is narrower than the thickness of the interior partition. The adjacent walls must be flat, otherwise you will get an ugly gap.

Installation instructions for plastic platbands

Glue is used very rarely, the connection is unreliable. Basically, plastic platbands on interior doors are installed using a profile. This installation method consists of the following steps:

If the plastic cashing is placed on a wall lined with clapboard, then a wooden rail is fixed along the perimeter of the doorway, and a profile is already attached to it.

Installation with special nipples and self-tapping screws is possible.

Elimination of defects

An unpleasant moment is the visibility of a nail head or self-tapping screw. They are slightly sunk in the body of the cashing, and from above they are covered with a sealant of the desired color. You can use a wax corrector.

On uneven walls, due to the curvature of the wooden planks, the joints diverge. During installation, the mating elements are additionally connected with a finishing nail.

Large flaws around the door frame are hidden by wide strips from 100 to 120 mm.

How to join a skirting board with a platband?

The door trim does not need to be cut, it must reach the floor. Otherwise it won't look very pretty.

The skirting board itself is adjusted, the method depends on the material.

• Plastic ones have decorative plugs, with the help of which you can neatly and beautifully join the end of the skirting board and the door trim.

• A cut is made on a wooden one at 45 degrees in order to align the adjacent side of the skirting board with the thickness of the door casing.

Dismantling

Removing the casings is usually required when the casings are being replaced. There is no need to worry about their safety, but the work is done neatly. Taking an ax with a sharp blade and a hammer in hand, they begin to dismantle:

The procedure must be carried out carefully so that no dents remain on the door frame. Instead of an ax, homemade sharpened strips of durable metal or other similar devices will do.

Doors, despite their external simplicity, are very demanding in installation. The slightest mistake can lead to disastrous consequences. Incorrectly measured dimensions, cuts made cannot be corrected, and you will have to do it all over again using different materials. The gaps formed due to the erroneous sawing cannot be eliminated with the help of a sealant.

Even if this masks external defects, the structure will not be strong due to a loose fit to the surface. As a result, the load on the bars is significantly increased, and the service life of the door is reduced. In order to prevent such a situation, it is necessary to assemble the door frame with your own hands, strictly following the step-by-step instructions. It is important not only correctly, but also very carefully and accurately to carry out all the installation work.

The base frame must match the dimensions of the door (width and height) in order to provide full coverage and support of the structure. An important nuance regarding the canvas is the purpose of the room for which it is intended. Because ventilation requirements will depend on this. In steam rooms and saunas, doors must provide reliable thermal insulation, so the opening is sealed as tightly as possible.

The bathroom, on the contrary, needs to be well ventilated so that excess moisture does not accumulate and mold does not appear. Therefore, the gap between the box and the door should be slightly wider. And also good ventilation is required for rooms in which gas equipment is installed.

To provide reliable protection against heat leakage, a rectangular frame is constructed from four bars, which will serve as a door frame. The vertical posts will become the hinge and false element, and the transverse ones will become the upper support and threshold.

For free movement of the curtain, the gap between the door and the uprights should be about 3 mm. In cases where an air flow into the room is needed, the box is assembled from three bars, and a gap of about 10-15 mm is made at the place of the threshold. A standard distance of 3 mm is left along the uprights and lintels.

The assembled box is slightly higher than the complete threshold. The difference is about 20 mm. It is important to take this nuance into account so that you do not have to shorten the door. Because the canvas can only be adjusted if it is made of wood.

The gap between the door frame and the opening must be at least 10 mm on each side, so that the structure can be easily installed and fixed.

Required tools

A do-it-yourself door frame can be installed with the help of various tools, some of them are owned by many owners, but what is missing will have to be rented or purchased.

• Miter box. A device that allows you to cut a bar at different angles.
• Pencil, tape measure, construction tape.
• Acrylic paint for wood.
• Polyurethane foam for sealing the box.
• Chisel, for making cuts for hinges.
• Perforator, drill, screwdriver.
• Claw, crowbar, hammer. For dismantling works.
• Miter saw, hacksaw and stationery knife.
• Building level.

Dismantling

If the doors are not installed in a new room, but the structure is replaced. Then you can do the installation of the door frame with your own hands only after the old one has been removed. The door frame is dismantled in the following order:

1. The platbands are removed, and the elements of the box are disassembled.
2. Fasteners and anchor bolts are unscrewed.
3. The strength of the opening is checked and, if necessary, it is strengthened.

It is worth very carefully disassembling the door frame in order not to damage anything and thereby increase the volume of installation work in the future. If it is necessary to replace the door frame, it is recommended to dismantle it in advance so that there is time to prepare the opening. It is almost impossible to remove a door frame without damaging it. Therefore, after removing the old components, you will need to install new ones.

How to assemble a door frame?

The assembly diagram will help to make a door frame from blanks correctly.

The box must be enlarged with the help of an extension, if the width of the wall is more than 70 mm, and the platbands are placed on both sides.

If the door frame is assembled from MDF, all fastening work must be carried out with preliminary reaming so that cracks and chips do not form on the product.

How to saw down a door frame at 45 degrees?

Elements with a rounded section are cut at an angle of 45 °. In order to make the correct cut, use a miter box or a miter saw with a rotating table.

Do-it-yourself doorframes can be assembled without the use of special tools. In such cases, you can saw off the desired angle without a miter box, using a ruler and a protractor for marking.

When installing, the structure is fixed with self-tapping screws, which are screwed in at an angle.

Assembling the box at a 90 degree angle

With this option, the assembly of the door frame is quick and easy.

• It is necessary to saw off the required size of the racks and the horizontal crossbar at a right angle.
• Choose an extra part of the vestibule.

• Place the elements of the box on the floor, align and fix at the ends with self-tapping screws (2 in each).

In order for all sides to maintain parallelism, you can attach the door to the door frame and check how it will stand in the opening. The connection of the door frame at 90 degrees is considered by specialists to be a quick installation technology.

Assembling the box with a threshold

There is no significant difference between installing door frames with a threshold and without it. Thresholds have recently lost their relevance. But, despite this, such a system has a lot of fans. This is explained by the fact that it is stronger and more reliable than a structure without a lower transverse bar. Such systems can withstand significant loads and are suitable for installing solid wood doors. Thresholds are considered a prerequisite for bathrooms. Regardless of what type of construction is chosen, each person will be able to assemble the frame of the interior door.

• Prepare vertical and horizontal strips in advance.
• Cut at 45 or 90 degrees.
• The prepared elements are placed on a flat surface.
• In turn, fasten the racks and crossbars with self-tapping screws.

How to install the door frame correctly?

The installation of the door frame is carried out after a preliminary check of its compliance with the dimensions of the opening in the wall.

• In the event that everything fits, the door frame is installed in the opening.
• Using the hydro level, the verticality of the racks and the horizontalness of the crossbars are checked.

• Wedges (about 15 pcs.) Are installed around the entire perimeter of the structure. Spacer for door frames increases strength.

• Make markings for the attachment points. Holes are drilled along it on the bars and walls. Many experts attach the door frame to the wall in the places where the hinges and the lock striker are located. This allows you not to violate the integrity and appearance of the product.

• The door frame is fastened with anchor bolts, which are inserted into the holes and tightened with a screwdriver or wrench (depending on the type of fastener). The structure should be fastened very carefully.

• Fasten the hinges and hang the canvas. When properly installed, opening and closing the door will be easy.

• The gap between the block and the wall is filled with polyurethane foam.

The counter metal bar of the lock is installed at different stages: during assembly or when the structure is already fixed. The second method will be more correct and accurate.

• Cover the doors and mark with a pencil the location of the tongue or magnet.
• The required hole is made with a chisel or a feather drill. Too deep is not necessary, the main thing is that the tongue fits and holds the door.
• A sample is made according to the size of the striker and installed, securing it with self-tapping screws. It is not necessary to mount the element very deeply, this will ruin the appearance.

• The gaps are putty with sealant.

What else is important to know?

Not every person will succeed the first time with a high-quality installation of the door frame. But don't despair. Because many flaws can be fixed.

1. If there is an ugly seam, you can close the joint between the laminate and the door frame with a plinth or a special flexible sill.
2. If the box does not fit into the opening, then the racks and crossbars can be cut a little.
3. Platbands allow you to beautifully seal the gap between the door frame and the wall. If their width is not enough, you will have to plaster and decorate the gap.
4. To install an interior door frame in a concrete wall or brick, it is impossible to do without a puncher. If the MDF door frame is installed first on the slats, using a drill, holes are made and only then they work with a puncher.
5. Fastening a door frame to a wooden wall is much easier than to other materials. In this case, a hammer drill is not useful for drilling holes. You just need to screw the door frame to the wall with the help of anchors. The main thing to consider is that over time, wooden buildings can shrink a lot.
6. To facilitate the installation process, special door frame installation systems have been created. Thanks to them, the structure can be placed in walls made of any material, without using wedges and spacers. Such a kit includes flush-mounted fasteners, detailed step-by-step instructions and diagrams. Using the system, even a beginner can insert a door frame.

Platbands are overhead profile strips that are intended for decorative framing of window or door openings. Wooden platbands allow you to close any gaps that form between the window frame and the wall. Door trims are suitably designed to perform this kind of work, only the gaps are closed between the wall and the door frame. The use of platbands.
It will allow you to hide even significant construction defects that have arisen for a number of reasons - for example, after the "shrinkage" of a building or a marriage admitted during construction.
The form of the platband can be almost any. But the most common forms of platbands are rounded, flat or curly (or, as they are also called, "carved" platbands, which are an exclusive material).
Today, the building materials market offers a great variety of types of platbands made of any materials - MDF platbands, veneered platbands, steel and aluminum platbands, PVC platbands. PVC platbands, by the way, are by far the most demanded among buyers and the cheapest in terms of price.
When choosing platbands, special attention should be paid to its quality of performance. In addition, all types of platbands are made to order. The cost is slightly higher than the market value - but the customer can be 100% sure of the quality of such a casing and in case of detection of any defect there will always be an opportunity to return it back. Since such masters value their reputation very much.
All types of platbands can be fastened with screws, self-tapping screws, nails and special glue designed for this type of work. Installation of platbands must be done very carefully in order to avoid damage to it. If you are not sure that the work of installing the platband can be done independently, then it is better to contact a specialist carpenter.
After the platbands are installed on windows or doors, they will give a finished look to the facade of the building or its interior decoration.
The platband for interior doors comes complete with the doors themselves, in some cases it goes separately, but is bought in the same place as the doors. The color of the casing must completely match the color of the door leaf and door frame.
The platband consists of different materials, mainly of MDF and chipboard, as well as wood (solid or glued), covered with veneer, laminated film, varnish.
The platband is of two types: semicircular and rectangular. In a semicircular middle, it is thicker than the edges, it goes from the middle to a narrowing. Rectangular consists of right angles. The thickness of the middle and edges are the same. There are also patterned platbands, as a rule, they are included in the set on expensive interior doors. The minimum and basic size (width) of the casing for interior doors is 70 mm nowadays. A casing of 80 mm is less common.
The platband is cut down on the interior doors in two ways: at 45 and 90 degrees. The main more popular method of sawing is at 45 degrees, since this platband is used for inexpensive and medium-priced interior doors. On expensive doors, there is mainly a platband with a cut at 90 degrees. It is better to file the platband with a professional tool - this is an end saw, but it is also possible with a hand one - a miter box and a hacksaw.
Cashing an interior door is a very long and painstaking work, since each casing stick is filed individually. and not the slightest error should be allowed when cutting down the joining angle of the platband.
Installation of platbands helps to close the openings between the door frame and the wall, and they are also designed to decorate the openings. Platbands are divided into external and internal. The outer casing looks more massive. Platbands are installed using pine or spruce boards.
Outer platbands have various kinds of threads, as well as overhead details. Threads are of raised and through types. It is done using jigsaws and drills of different diameters, semicircular and flat type chisels.
The platband is installed either to the floor or with a slight offset of 15-20 cm. The empty space at the bottom is closed with a thick blank. This is necessary to protect the platband from rapid wear, and to give the opening a beautiful look. Platbands are of a smooth type and have selected kalevki, they are more beautiful. Door platbands are painted in the color of the door, but you can also paint them in other colors at the request of the customer.
The installation of platbands originates from the determination of the length. The platband is cut at a certain angle. On the prepared holes for nails, the platband is fixed. Platbands should be installed with the lower ends fastened to the floor. To facilitate repairs, you can also leave room for a large platband, called a bedside table. Platbands must be installed before the plinth fixings. Door platbands are nailed to the boxes with nails that have flattened caps.

Tags: How to correctly install platbands on interior doors at 90 degrees

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Artel of doors Arzamas | Topic author: Maxim

How to install platbands: at an angle of 90 or 45 degrees?

Door trims are an important element in the appearance of a door. Platbands highlight, emphasize the door in the interior. Of great importance is the angle at which they join: at an angle of 90 degrees or 45. In which cases this or that option is appropriate, we will analyze in this small material.

The standard width of the platbands is 70 mm, but they can be wider. Rounded, flat and embossed are distinguished in shape. By the method of fastening, they are ordinary and telescopic.

Any platbands are joined at an angle of 45 degrees.
This is a classic version of connecting platbands with each other. For classic doors with curved lines in the design, this is the only option. With this method of installing the platbands, their sawing at a given angle plays a very important role. The cut should be as even and precise as possible. If the walls are curved, then a slope or offset in the cut will be required. In general, in the end there should be a perfect joint. Otherwise, gaps and chips will be very noticeable, especially on light doors.

Only flat platbands are joined at right angles.
For installation of platbands at 90 degrees, only platbands specially made for this are suitable. This means that the shapes of the joints of the platbands must be the same. In rounded or curly platbands, the shape of the saw cut differs from the shape of the side part. Moreover, even flat platbands have a slight rounding at the corners. Therefore, the upper casing should be thinner than the lateral ones so that it is slightly recessed. Otherwise, the edge of the platbands will be exposed.
Platbands are installed at right angles on doors in a modern style with straight lines. The right angle of the platbands, as it were, complements the right angles of the door structure.

Recently, manufacturers began to produce flat platbands intended only for installation at right angles. This means that in a set for one door of 5 platbands, one will be thinner than the rest. The installers need to be careful not to cut in half the thick casing, which is the side.

The upper platband is also installed at a right horizontal angle. This is how capitals and cornices are installed - decorative platbands.

Do-it-yourself installation of platbands - YouTube

At what stage of the repair should you start installing platbands ... platbands on doors, platbands at 45 degrees, platbands with your own hands, ... interior doors, installation ...

Doors are more often purchased disassembled, when the door leaf is separately, and the door frame is generally just a set of profile timber made of wood. True, you should not be afraid of this, since the process of assembling a door frame with your own hands is quite simple.

Door frame mounting tools

• swivel miter box,
• puncher and screwdriver,
• hand saw,
• carpentry level and plumb line,
• Bulgarian,
• pry bar, nail puller, hammer,
• a set of hardware.

Preparatory work

So, you are already a model of your future interior door and have prepared the tools. Now, in order to install a new door frame, you need to dismantle the old doors.

To do this, the platbands are first removed, and then, trying not to harm the wall, they remove the old door frame with a hacksaw, a pry bar and other necessary tool.

If its fasteners cannot be unscrewed, then they can simply be sawed with a sander. After that, it will be useful to carefully examine the wall for the need to strengthen it.

If you find many cracks on the surface, and the surface begins to crumble with slight impact, then for the reliability of installation and durability of the new door, you will need to additionally carry out concrete work to strengthen the doorway.

We measure and assemble the box

Without exaggeration, this part of the work when installing a door frame can be called one of the most important. Here it will be necessary to accurately calculate the length of the struts, as well as the upper lintel with or without a threshold (the lower bar in modern doorways, as a rule, is not done). The width and height of the door frame, ideally, should be 2-3 cm less than the size of the doorway, so that the gap between the bars and the wall is no more than 1-1.5 cm.

Sometimes it happens that the dimensions of the opening are much larger than the dimensions of the door and, accordingly, the frame. If the difference is relatively small, then a block of appropriate thickness can be filled over the entire width of the opening. If the size discrepancy is significant, then the opening is laid with bricks, or part of the wall is sheathed with plasterboard. But in any case, in order to avoid unnecessary expenses and efforts, dismantle the old door in advance, measure the dimensions of the opening, and in accordance with them, buy a new door.

There are several options for assembling the box, but the most popular of them are two - with the fixing of the bars at an angle of 45 and 90 degrees. Different measurements are taken for each of them.

Advice. In some cases, when arranging the interior, use will be justified - where there is not enough space for classic drop-down doors.

We fix the bars at an angle of 45 degrees

The length of the vertical beams in this case is the sum of the height of the door opening, the thickness of the upper lintel, the threshold (if any) and the dimensions of the required gaps at the top and bottom. The latter are usually taken at 3 mm. Naturally, both vertical beams should be equal in length.

The lengths of the lintel and threshold are calculated by adding the width of the door itself, the thickness of each vertical bar and the same gaps. Remember that to fix the door frame elements at an angle of 45 degrees, you need to thoroughly calculate the dimensions, make the necessary markings, and then cut the timber.

The connection is secured with a pair of screws in the pre-drilled holes. The screws are screwed into the bars at an angle of 45 degrees, and if the drilling is not done in advance, the wooden profile can simply crack.

We fasten the bars at an angle of 90 degrees

In this case, the horizontal profile of the door frame will lie on the vertical one. Accordingly, the dimensions of the vertical beams will be determined as the height of the door itself plus a pair of 3 mm gaps at the top and bottom.

This is for the option with a threshold. If the latter is not there, then instead of 3 mm of the lower gap, it will be necessary to add a whole centimeter, i.e. 10 mm, so that the door does not cling to the floor covering.

The width of the threshold and the upper headroom will be calculated as the sum of the width of the door leaf, double the thickness of the vertical bar and a pair of 3 mm gaps. In addition, so that the protruding part of the profile, on which the door rests when closing, does not interfere with connecting the bars to each other, it will be necessary to make landing samples.

That is, the porch - the protruding part along the edges of the horizontal bars, you just need to cut to the width of the vertical profile. This requires a minimum of tools:

• hacksaw,
• carpentry hammer,
• chisel.

Accordingly, with a hacksaw, you will need to carefully make a cut to the width of the protruding part of the profile, and then with a chisel using a hammer, simply chop off an unnecessary piece of the profile and clean the surface. Fastening is done in the same way with self-tapping screws at an angle of 90 degrees.

Installation of hinges

It is also a fairly simple, albeit crucial step in installing the door frame:

1. Decide how the door will open (inward or outward) in order to choose the side on which you will need to hang the hinges;
2. Place the door leaf and frame on a flat surface;



3. Measure 20 cm from the upper and lower edges of the door leaf and apply marks for installing the hinges;
4. Attach the hinges to the end of the door leaf at the mark, circle them along the contour, and then draw them neatly along these lines with a sharp knife;



5. Further, in this place, using a chisel, you will need to make a recess with a depth corresponding to the thickness of the loop, so that the latter does not go beyond the structure;
6. Mark the place in the recess made for the self-tapping screws, drill the corresponding holes and fasten the loop;



Cutting hinges into the door frame with a router

7. Do the same on the door frame with the second side of the hinges.