Interroom partition for adjoining rooms.

If you install partitions made of high-quality building material, drywall and tongue-and-groove blocks are suitable for such needs. With a low cost of material and installation work, every owner of an apartment, private house and office can afford them.

Partitions for room zoning.

The results obtained have a neat appearance. Any type of communication fits well between them. Electric wires, various cables, water and sewer pipes are perfectly located behind partitions. The owners can be confident in the absolute safety and durability of the installation work.

GKL - partitions for the office.

Stationary partitions are fixed to the floor, wall, ceiling and cannot be moved. Installed in organizations where there is no need to move them. Plasterboard partitions are the easiest and most convenient way to zone the workspace and make it comfortable for the employee.

Many are not satisfied with the standard layout of living quarters. You can change it using partitions. Any material for the partition can be taken. It should be borne in mind that such a heavy material, such as a brick, creates an additional load on the floor panels. The best option is a plasterboard partition in an apartment.

Drywall is a fairly light material, not only in weight, but also in processing and installation. It is very easy to cut it into pieces of the desired size, for fastening there is no need to make additional holes in it, all parts are fastened with ordinary self-tapping screws.

An important role in the choice of material for the partition in favor of drywall is played by its low price. Structures made of this material, unlike bricks, are considered temporary, therefore, prior to their construction, you do not need to obtain permission to redevelop an apartment. This article describes how to make a partition using drywall.

The technology for working with drywall is quite simple, with minimal construction skills, you can build a partition with your own hands without the involvement of hired specialists.

Where to begin

Before starting work, you need to draw up a draft of the future structure, determine the consumption of materials that need to be purchased.

The design of drywall partitions is limited only by the owner's imagination. It can be a strict solid rectilinear wall with or without a door, an arched structure, openings for greater illumination or decorative openings can be present in the partition, the edge of the partition can be made vertical, beveled, or any complex configuration. It all depends on the decision made and the purpose of the partition.

Partitions are often made for zoning the space, that is, not for the entire width or height of the room. In this way, the functional purpose of a part of the room is emphasized. This technique is most effective in apartments with small rooms.

Frame

Drywall sheets cannot be mounted vertically directly to the floor, ceiling or wall. Therefore, a frame is preliminarily constructed, to which the sheet material is then screwed. The frame is made of a special metal profile.

First of all, the base of the future partition is fixed. It is placed on the floor and ceiling in stripes strictly parallel to each other. The edges of the base profile should be on the same vertical line.

Control over this is carried out with the help of a building level, the best result is given by a laser tool. Fasteners are made with self-tapping screws or dowel-nails, depending on the surface material.

A vertical profile with reinforced edges is inserted into the base. The details of the structure are interconnected with self-tapping screws. The distance between the uprights should not exceed 60 cm to ensure the required rigidity.

Door and window openings

If you plan to make partitions with a door, then a horizontal profile must be attached along the height of the upper edge of the door frame. The vertical posts and the horizontal lintel are fixed so that the solid side of the ball profile faces the inside of the opening. It is better not to install the lower base in place of the door, so that later you do not have to make a threshold.

A wooden block is laid inside the profile along the perimeter of the opening along the width of the profile. The door frame will be attached to these bars. To increase the rigidity of the frame in the area of ​​the door, the horizontal lintel must be connected with additional vertical segments to the base on the ceiling.

Its good result is provided by the placement of additional vertical profiles from floor to ceiling next to the main posts of the opening.

The frame for the window opening is arranged in the same way, except that the horizontal lintel is also made along the lower edge of the window frame.

Arched structure

Despite the fact that drywall is a rigid sheet material, a structure with a curved surface can be made from it.

To do this, shallow notches are applied to one side of the sheet. They are moistened with water, and after soaking with moisture, drywall becomes plastic, it can be bent in an arc. It is necessary to fasten the sheet without waiting for it to dry completely in order to avoid cracks.

The frame for the arched opening is made from a standard profile. To bend the profile, cuts are made at its sides with high frequency.

The upper side of the arch is reinforced by fastening one or more vertical posts to the ceiling base.

Cutting and fastening sheets

The dimensions of the sheets almost never coincide with the required dimensions, you have to cut off the excess or add the missing. Cutting off a piece of drywall sheet is extremely simple. To do this, an incision is made along the marked line with a sharp knife, which does not reach the paper layer of the back side. Then the sheet is broken along the notch line and the remaining paper is cut through.

At the joints of the sheets, a chamfer is made, into which part of the plaster mortar will enter. The chamfer is made with a plane at an angle of 45 degrees or with an ordinary knife.

For the reliability of the seams, a reinforcing tape is applied to them. Without such preparation, cracks will form in the plaster at the joints of the sheets.

Drywall is attached to the frame with self-tapping screws with a fine pitch right through the sheet without preliminary holes. Self-tapping screws are spaced evenly at a distance of about 30 cm from each other.

Bulkhead wiring

Often it is required to install sockets, switches and lighting devices on the partition. In the right places in the drywall sheet, holes are made for installation boxes.

Electric cables are laid inside the partition even at the stage of construction of the frame. If necessary, holes are made in the profile for the cable.

Partition finishing

There are several options for finishing a drywall surface:

• painting;
• wallpapering;
• finishing with panels or tiles.

Any of the options requires preliminary preparation of the wall. A mandatory step is surface priming to bind dust on the surface and better adhesion of the putty.

It is necessary to putty drywall to hide installation defects and seal joints. On the finishing putty, paint is applied or wallpaper is pasted. The fixing of panels and tiles is carried out in the same way as on other surfaces.

In conclusion, we present a photo of the plasterboard partitions.

Photo of drywall partitions

A couple of decades ago, all partitions and piers were erected with their own hands from blocks or bricks. These materials were subsequently successfully replaced by drywall, which retains its popularity to this day. There are many reasons for this. The ability of drywall to acquire any shape and a variety of profiles of its frame make it possible to translate into reality the most daring ideas of designers. The simple installation of a plasterboard partition with your own hands is available even to a beginner in the construction business.

Due to its porous structure, the material easily permits steam, regulating the humidity level in the room. Impregnation of gypsum board with a special composition makes it possible to use drywall in a humid environment such as a bathroom or kitchen. Plasterboard, which contains natural ingredients, is completely harmless to health.

The light weight of the gypsum board partitions has little effect on the bearing capacity of the main elements of the building, which is very important when repairing old wooden buildings. And in the construction of modern buildings, the use of gypsum plasterboard structures reduces the cost of concrete and reinforcement by up to 30%.

The thickness of the partitions during their installation and the reliable opening are determined by the profile width of 100.75 or 50 mm. Its choice depends on the purpose of the partition. A narrow profile can save usable floor space, while a wide one can withstand significant loads.

Calculation of materials

The design of the future partition is a metal frame sheathed with gypsum board, in which there is a doorway. The frame consists of guides and rack profiles. Guide profiles PN 50/40 are attached along the perimeter of the vertical contour of the room, and the rack-mount profiles PS - inside the contour with a step of 600 mm, they also form a doorway. For cladding, 12.5mm wall drywall with sheet dimensions of 2500x1200mm is used.

In order to correctly calculate the amount of these materials, it is necessary to draw a diagram of the future partition on paper indicating the height, length or width of the room, the location and dimensions of the doorway, as well as the placement of rack profiles. In addition, the cutting of drywall sheets should be applied to the drawing of the frame, which should be staggered with the joints fastened on the horizontal crosspieces of the frame.

When calculating, it is important to determine the future load on the partition from the weight of furniture or decor items. The location and number of rack profiles, as well as additional jumpers required at the points of attachment of accessories or decorating the doorway, depend on it.

Before making a drywall partition, an approximate calculation of the amount of materials can be performed using any of their many calculators posted on the websites of specialized construction companies. The doorway is not taken into account.

Frame installation

In order to build a metal frame of a partition with your own hands, you will need the following tools: a plumb line, a screwdriver, a tape measure, metal scissors, a puncher, a drill, a hammer, a paint cord, a building level and a marker. An interior plasterboard partition with a door is made in stages in the following order:

Sheathing the frame of the partition with plasterboard

After installing the frame, it must be sheathed with plasterboard sheets. Do-it-yourself work should be started from the wall by attaching solid sheets, observing the following rules:

• Self-tapping screws are screwed into the sheet at a distance of 10-15mm from its edge with an attachment pitch of 100-150mm.
• Adjacent sheets must have a joint on a common profile.
• The hats of the fasteners should be recessed by 0.5 mm in the gypsum board.
• With a single-layer frame sheathing, the length of self-tapping screws is taken at least 25mm, and with a two-layer sheathing - 40mm. An important indicator in this case is the penetration of fasteners into the profile to a depth of at least 10 mm.

After sheathing the frame on one side, it is recommended to lay a sound-insulating material in it, which can be used as a mineral wool in the form of slabs or a roll cloth. The insulator must be placed between the post profiles, avoiding gaps.

After laying the insulation, you can sheathe the frame on the other side according to the above rules. It is recommended to fasten the sheets to the frame profiles with a vertical offset for the correct distribution of the loads arising during the operation of the partition.

Partition finishing

Finishing the finished plasterboard partition is performed in the following order:

Instead of a traditional door, a sliding door can be installed in the partition. In this case, the size of the opening will be smaller than the door leaf. Such an opening is equipped with a floor controller, an overhead rail and an additional metal frame required to mask the movement mechanism.

If necessary, engineering communications can be placed in the plasterboard partition: electrical wiring, pipes and others. Such work is planned in advance and performed at the stage of creating the frame.

That's all science. We hope you now know how to make a plasterboard partition and a doorway with your own hands. A little patience and accuracy in work - and you will succeed. Good luck to all!

Although plasterboard partitions have become widely known relatively recently, today many builders, as well as owners of offices and even residential apartments, cannot imagine their life without them. Their installation is quite simple, easy and cheap, but at the same time they allow you to easily perform room zoning. Therefore, it will be useful for many people to learn more about them - perhaps it is the use of drywall partitions that will be a good solution for them.

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Advantages of plasterboard partitions

These designs have quite a few important advantages to keep in mind. Here are just the most obvious and important ones:

1. Excellent sound insulation. It is enough to install a metal frame with one layer of drywall 12 millimeters thick to achieve sound absorption of up to 47 dB. If a double layer of material is sewn onto the frame, this figure will increase to 45 dB;
2. The material is extremely lightweight. Unlike brick and concrete partitions, gypsum plasterboard is quite light (a sheet of 1 square meter weighs from 25 to 50 kg, depending on the thickness), which allows you not to create a significant load on the supporting structure;
3. Plasterboard has a flat surface, which is perfect for covering with any finishing material - from paint and wallpaper to decorative stone slabs;
4. Modern drywall is a non-flammable material, which increases the safety of its use;
5. The relatively high porosity allows it to be classified as a “breathing” material. That is, it not only lets steam through, but also absorbs excess moisture from the air, and, if necessary, gives it back, making the microclimate in the room more stable;
6. Ease of installation is even more important. Any room can be transformed beyond recognition in a matter of hours. And it is far from always necessary to resort to the help of specialists, spending extra money. You can build plasterboard partitions with your own hands - it is enough to have the simplest tools and at least basic skills in the field of construction. At the same time, the amount of construction waste during operation is minimal.

As you can see, the advantages of such partitions are very numerous. But it is equally important to have an idea of ​​the shortcomings, so that later you do not regret a bad choice.

Disadvantages of plasterboard partitions

Alas, like any other building material, drywall has certain disadvantages. First of all, it is fragility. Unlike wooden and even more so brick walls, plasterboard ones are easily damaged.

Although drywall is a "breathable" material, it does not tolerate high humidity and even more direct contact with water. That is, if the neighbors from above flood you, and water gets on the drywall partitions, the latter will be hopelessly damaged - you will have to change them.

It is undesirable to hang shelves and cabinets on such partitions - they will become a serious additional load on the metal profile, and it may simply not be able to withstand.

This is where the cons of this material end. Yes, there are significantly fewer of them than advantages. That is why the installation of drywall partitions is such a popular service today.

How to choose a material?

If you decide to install plasterboard partitions with your own hands in your apartment or house, you will need: profile, drywall, self-tapping screws. At first glance, this all sounds pretty simple. But, having come to a hardware store, many people who do not work in the construction industry are lost. Therefore, it will be useful to tell about these materials in more detail.

Types and purpose of metal profiles

Profiles can differ in functionality and, accordingly, in cross-section:

• Guide profile. Its cross-section resembles a channel. It is used as a base if you need to fix the rack-mount profile. Its shelves are 40 millimeters wide. The backrest can have a width of 50 to 100 millimeters. All the necessary parameters are mentioned in the marking. For example, if you see material marked PN 40-75, then this is a guide profile with a 75 mm backrest and a 40 mm shelf;
• Rack profile. It differs from the guide by the presence of special bends inward at the ends of the shelves. In addition, its width is slightly larger - 50 millimeters. It can be marked as PS 50-75. But it should be remembered that usually the back has a smaller width - instead of the indicated 50 mm, no more than 48.5.
• Ceiling profile. Used to create a ceiling frame with subsequent plasterboard sheathing;
• Corner profile. Needed to create even and attractive outside corners. Able to protect soft plasterboard corners from any mechanical damage;
• There is also an arched profile. It is used to create arched openings. The backrest and shelf of the profile are divided into equal sections, which makes it easy to bend it, giving it almost any shape;
• The beacon profile is used if you need to level the walls to a predetermined level. The profile is used as a stop to set the required level for the rule.

All profiles have different lengths - from 2750 to 6000 millimeters, which allows you to choose the right one for any job.

It is also worth noting that the profile can vary significantly in the thickness of the metal used. Typically, the thickness ranges from 0.4 to 0.55 millimeters. Of course, if the thickness is greater, then the profile has greater strength, but it costs more and weighs more. Therefore, it is worth approaching its choice as carefully as possible in order to choose exactly the one that is suitable for making plasterboard partitions with your own hands.

Drywall can also vary in a number of ways. For example, the thickness of the sheets can be from 6 to 15 millimeters. Thin sheets are suitable for forming complex surfaces and arches. And to make partitions, the minimum thickness must be at least 12.5 millimeters. Otherwise, the sheets may not withstand possible mechanical stress.

Drywall is also usually divided into several groups:

• Standard drywall. It is used for finishing any surfaces. Gray with blue markings;
• Moisture resistant drywall. Suitable for rooms with high humidity. Green with blue markings;
• Fire resistant drywall. It is used in ventilation shafts, electrical panels, in attics. Gray with red markings;
• Fire and moisture resistant drywall. Green with red markings.

Of course, when choosing a suitable material, you need to pay attention not only to the thickness of the sheets, but also to the purpose of drywall in order to make the right choice. Based on the thickness of the sheets, the length of the screws should also be chosen. They must securely fix the drywall to the profile, but not stick out after screwing in.

Work progress

List of tools required to perform work

To install a drywall partition with your own hands, you need to use not so many tools: a building level, a clerical knife, a hammer, a screwdriver, a puncher, metal scissors, a 5-7 meter tape measure, a plumb line and a pencil.

Some professionals prefer to use a more convenient laser self-leveling level. Indeed, with its help, you can quickly complete a significant amount of work. But this is a rather expensive tool, so in most cases, you can get by with the simplest hydro level.

If you have neither a screwdriver nor an electric drill at hand, you can get by with a screwdriver. Yes, you will have to spend a lot of time and effort to do all the work manually. But, nevertheless, it is quite real.

When all the tools are collected, and the necessary materials are purchased, you can start working. And for many people doing this work for the first time, it will not be superfluous to know how to install drywall partitions with their own hands. The step-by-step instructions below will help you with this.

How to install the guide profile

The first stage of work is the installation of the guide profile. On the floor, you need to mark (preferably with chalk, as it is easily erased) a line. A new partition will be installed along it. Install the guide profile in the marked place.

If the work is carried out in a room with wooden floors, the profile is simply fixed with self-tapping screws. More difficult if you have to work with concrete floors. Holes are pre-drilled in them, into which the dowels are installed. The distance between the self-tapping screws should not exceed 30 centimeters for secure fixation.

The next step is to fix the profile on the walls. For this, the first profile is used as a bottom attachment point. Using a plumb line, we follow the strictly vertical position of the profile. It attaches to the wall just like it does to the floor. If the wall is made of silicate blocks or aerated concrete, it is better to use special dowel-nails. They must also be installed at intervals of no more than 30 centimeters.

At the joints, the profiles are connected to each other using short (no more than 15 millimeters) self-tapping screws.

In the same way, you need to install the ceiling profile, thereby closing the contour for the future plasterboard partition.

Installing a vertical profile

The device of a blind partition that does not provide for a doorway is simple. Vertical profiles are installed on guides, and must be installed from the wall. Places for mounting the profile should be noted in advance. You need to determine the distance between them individually - it depends on how wide the drywall sheets are. Three stands must be installed on one sheet - along the edges and in the center. For example, if a sheet 120 centimeters wide is installed, the racks are installed with a gap of 60 centimeters.

Before you start connecting profiles, you need to know how to do it correctly. First, you should fix the screws closer to the back, and only then - closer to the edge. In this case, the risk of deformation of the shelf is excluded. This means that the quality of the profile and its bearing capacity will not be affected.

To increase the rigidity of the structure, additional sections of the profile are installed between the vertical posts. Their length should correspond to the distance between the installed profile - during installation, it is advisable to use short self-tapping screws that can securely fasten the entire structure.

The minimum distance between the horizontal profile is 40 centimeters. In general, it depends on the length of the sheets. It is necessary to ensure that their edges lie in the middle of the profile. If it is planned to hang light shelves or a hanger on a plasterboard partition, in the previously marked places the profile is strengthened with wood bars - they will bear the load.

If you need a regular interior partition, then you can use whole sheets of drywall. Where this is not possible, the sheets will have to be cut with a clerical knife. How to do it neatly? You just need to lay down the ruler and draw several times with a knife in one place, gradually deepening the incision. Of course, this should be done carefully by measuring and marking everything so as not to spoil the building materials.

When attaching drywall to a profile, ensure a gap between the floor and the bottom edge of the sheet. The gap should not be too large - about 5 millimeters.

After that, the sheet is attached to the vertical and guide racks. The optimal distance between the screws is 15-20 centimeters. In this case, it is advisable to embed the caps of the screws into the sheet by 1 millimeter. When the sheet is fixed, its horizontalness can be checked with a level.

As you can see, the technology of arranging drywall partitions is not fraught with anything complicated.
When the construction is completed, paint or wallpaper is applied to the surface, as the design of the specific room provides.

The installation process will be a little more complicated if you are interested in a partition with a door.

In this case, the vertical profiles should be installed not from the wall, but from the marked opening. When installing the guide profiles, a suitable gap must also be provided. The installation of the rack profile is carried out so that the width of the doorway in the lower and upper parts is the same.

The main thing to remember here is that both the door and the door frame must fit in the doorway. Otherwise, a large amount of work will have to be redone later.

To increase the strength of the opening, a wooden block is inserted into the profile... To fix it, it is better to use self-tapping screws with a length of at least 35 millimeters.

When the profile around the doorway has taken a finished look, you can continue the installation of the rest of the profile, starting with it and moving towards the walls.

That's all. If you master the theory presented in the article, then you can probably carry out the installation of drywall partitions with your own hands without any problems.

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The main task of repairs in most houses and apartments is to bring the walls back to normal condition. After all, a couple of decades ago, almost no one even thought about perfectly flat walls. Aligned according to the principle "somehow". You can correct the situation according to all the rules: knock down the old plaster and completely plaster on the lighthouses. This is correct and reliable. But long, dirty, expensive. It is easier to use the so-called dry methods: level the surface of the wall with plasterboard (GKL). The second task that often has to be solved during the renovation process: redevelopment. We are removing old partitions, putting new ones. New interior and decorative partitions are also made using drywall. How to align and install drywall walls with your own hands and we will tell you in the article.

How to sheathe walls with plasterboard

To begin with, consider the case when you need to level the surface of existing walls. There are three options for attaching drywall to walls:

The latest technology - installing drywall on glue - is the fastest, but it also has drawbacks. First, there is not glue everywhere under the finish, so hanging cabinets on such a wall is problematic. If you plan to fix something to the wall in advance, lay a continuous layer of glue at this height or install a foundation beam, which will also be an additional beacon when setting the sheet level. Then the problem will be solved. Another disadvantage is that there are small differences. That is, the surface is imperfect. The difference is 2-3 mm. The sheet bends slightly between the "pieces" of glue. However, this is a good way to quickly level a wall.

For more information on how to glue drywall on the wall, see the video.

Fastening to the frame

Since when gluing drywall to the wall, no fasteners are needed, we will talk about the frame and mainly metal. The rules for attaching to a wooden one are the same, they just use self-tapping screws for wood.

GKL dimensions and purpose

A few words about what sizes the sheets are and how to put drywall on the walls. The standard dimensions are as follows: the width is always 1.2 m, the height is 2.5 and 3 meters. Sometimes there is a "non-standard" of shorter length: it is easier to work with small ones, but more seams are obtained, which then have to be repaired. GKL thickness:

• 12.5 mm - universal material for walls and ceilings;
• 6 mm and 9 mm for curved surfaces.

It is often said that 9 mm sheets are ceiling sheets. But manufacturers do not have such recommendations. Any of the manufacturing plants positions the thin sheets as those used for finishing curved surfaces.

Bevels are made along the long edges of the sheet. They are needed so that the joint can be glued with reinforcing tape and sealed with putty. It is the side where there is a bevel that is the front. It is deployed inside the room.

How to dock

If it is necessary to join sheets in height, arrange the joints so that a long longitudinal line is not obtained. They say that the sheets are stacked at random or with a shift. In this case, it is desirable that the displacement was at least 40-60 cm. Long joints are the most likely places for cracks to appear. By shifting the seam, you are almost 100% likely to get rid of cracks (for an example of laying sheets, see the figure).

If the wall is sheathed with two layers of plasterboard, then the vertical seams are also shifted. The sheet on the top must be installed so that the joint of the bottom one falls in its middle (shift by half the width - 60 cm).

How to fasten and with what step

During installation, the sheet is pressed against the frame and fixed with a screwdriver and special self-tapping screws with flat heads. If the frame is assembled from metal, take self-tapping screws TN25 (3.5x25 mm). In stores they are called "for drywall". Length - 25 mm, color - black (more likely to break) or white. For a frame made of wood, select those close in size with the flattest head: there will be less putty.

It is important to tighten the fasteners to the required depth during installation: the cap should be sunk into the sheet, but the cardboard should not tear. It is also necessary that the self-tapping screw be installed strictly perpendicular to the plane of the sheet: this way there is less chance of damaging the layer of cardboard, which in this structure is responsible for rigidity.

To learn how you can simplify the work and make the self-tapping screw go to the desired depth, watch the video.

When assembling the frame on a solid wall, the distance between the posts should be at least 60 cm. Then it turns out that each sheet is attached to three vertical profiles: two at the edges and one in the middle. In this case, the edge of the sheet falls in the middle of the profile.

Having stepped back from the edge 10-12 mm, screws are screwed in. They can be placed, as in the figure above, one opposite the other, or they can be offset, as in the figure below. Installation step - 250-300 mm. Fastened along the perimeter and along the middle profile.

Another important point: when cutting out sheets, keep in mind that its height should be 10-12 mm shorter than the height from floor to ceiling. This is necessary in case of shrinkage: so that the wall or partition has the ability to compensate for the change in height without cracks (especially important for timber and panel houses).

These are, perhaps, all the main points of working with drywall (without taking into account the peculiarities of mounting profiles).

Plasterboard partition

Installing the partition is a little more difficult, therefore, we will describe the process in steps from a photo.

Markup

First, mark the installation site of the partition. The easiest way to do this is with a laser plane builder (laser level). This line is applied to walls, floors and ceilings.

If there is no laser level, you will have to use a regular construction (good quality) and plumb bob. First, mark a line on the floor - this is easiest. Then, using a level, transfer it to the walls. If both lines on the walls are vertical, the line connecting them must be exactly above the line on the floor. Whether this is true or not, you can check with a plumb line, lowering it from the mark on the ceiling to the floor line.

Partition marking using a level and a plumb line

It is necessary to achieve a perfect match - the quality of all work depends on it.

Assembling the frame

We will consider the assembly of the frame from galvanized profiles. Guide profiles are installed along the marked line on the floor and ceiling. It is marked UW or PN - bearing profile. They are usually fastened with dowels - 6 * 40 mm or 6 * 60 mm, the distance between two dowels is 30-40 cm.

PN-profile has a standard depth (wall height) - 40 mm, but it can be of different widths 50 mm, 75 mm or 100 mm. The thickness of the partition depends on the width of the bearing profile, as well as the thickness of the insulation and / or sound-proof material that can be laid there.

Bearing racks are inserted into the guide profiles. They are labeled CW or PS - rack-mount profile. It differs from the guide by the presence of additional shelves on the walls. These shelves make it more rigid, increasing its load-bearing capacity. The width of the rack profiles depends on the width of the carriers: they must be the same. That is, the racks must be the same width. It is between them that the insulation is then installed.

The racks are attached to the guides in two ways. The first is used mainly by professional builders. They work with a cutter - a special tool that breaks through and bends metal to the sides, holding two parts together. Amateur builders, when working independently with drywall, are attached to "fleas" (also called bugs and seeds) - small self-tapping screws with a screw in the lower part - TEX 9.5 (3.5 * 9.5 mm). They drill the metal themselves, speeding up the assembly process (no need to drill holes). The racks are attached on each side with at least two self-tapping screws.

One point: if you are installing a partition in a high-rise building or on the first floor of your house, then together with the junction of the rack and the ceiling rail, put a special film or some kind of material that will prevent the appearance of a squeak. When people walk, vibrations occur, which are transmitted to the profiles, because of which they rub and squeak. The second option is to make the racks 1 cm shorter. It is more correct: the house will shrink and there are no unpleasant sounds.

The pitch of the racks is 60 cm or less. This distance is due to the width of the sheet of gypsum plasterboard (drywall), which is standardly equal to 120 cm. As mentioned earlier, it turns out that each sheet is attached to three racks. So it turns out that there should be 60 cm between the verticals.

If the gap between the two racks is more than 60 cm, but less than 120 cm, a vertical profile is still placed between them in the middle, otherwise this section will "bunch" - the sheet will stagger and sag. One more point: the first rack is attached to the wall a little closer - the first sheet will be attached to the entire plane of the extreme profile, therefore the distance should be slightly less - 57.5 cm.

It is desirable to strengthen the profiles to which the doors or windows will be attached. The easiest way to do this is with a piece of wood of a suitable size. It is inserted inside, and fastened with a pair of self-tapping screws. You need to use dry wood so that the timber does not twist.

After all the racks are exposed and secured, the structures are given greater rigidity with the help of jumpers - horizontally installed pieces of rack-mount profiles. They are made in one of the three ways suggested in the photo. The third option is the easiest to manufacture and easy to assemble.

Jumpers are usually placed at the height where two sheets will join. Their edges are necessarily fixed, so jumpers are needed there. For the rest - in increments of 60-80 cm. If the wall is large, place it every 60 cm, if it is small, 80 cm is enough. Crossbars above the doorway are required: at the height of the door frame. It is also advisable to strengthen them by putting a wooden block inside.

Laying of communications

After installing all the crossbars, you can start laying communications and wiring. It is advisable to mount all electrical wires in a corrugated hose. If you place the partition in a wooden house or on a wooden frame, it must be made of metal. In houses made of non-combustible materials, in walls made of plasterboard on a frame made of galvanized steel, it is allowed to use plastic corrugated hoses made of non-combustible raw materials (there is a mark "NG").

Plasterboard cladding and heat / sound insulation

After laying the communications, they proceed to the installation of plasterboard sheets. They are mounted in the same way as for cladding. Do-it-yourself plasterboard wall cladding begins on one side. Then, on the other hand, between the profiles (bars) of the frame, an insulation and / or sound insulator is installed. After its installation, the plasterboard wall is sewn up on the other side.

Insulation for walls and drywall partitions is used as usual:

In principle, it is possible to use other heaters, but the listed ones are the most popular.

How to cut drywall

When making drywall walls with your own hands, you will have to cut sheets: they do not always become whole. To do this, you will only need a sharp clerical knife (for paper), a long, even object - a ruler, board, timber, level, rule, etc. And a wooden block a couple of meters long, but it's not necessary, it's just easier with it. That's all. A jigsaw may be needed when cutting curved lines, but there will be a lot of dust.

The sequence of actions is as follows:

• draw a line with a pencil on the front side along which you need to cut off the drywall;
• we apply a ruler (bar, board) along the line and cut the cardboard with a clerical knife;
• we put a bar under the cut line;
• tap on the shorter side with the palm of your hand, which causes the plaster to break along the cut line;
• break the sheet along the entire length of the cut;
• bend the broken piece, cut the remaining whole cardboard.

Everything is really very simple. The main task: to mark correctly. There are no further problems (unless the sheet is broken).

Video lessons

Not all subtleties can be described, some are better to see. We have selected videos in which there are features of working with drywall. Basically, they relate to the assembly of the frame from the profiles. This is really the most time consuming part. And on how correctly the frame will be made, it depends on how flat the wall or partition will be.

How to make a plasterboard false wall

How to make reinforced racks in the partition. This method of assembling the frame is non-standard, but that does not mean that it is wrong. The racks are really stiffer. This is necessary if you are building a full-fledged interior partition from drywall. Amplification will not hurt here. The disadvantages are that it will take more time, and the cost of such a frame is higher.

Which profile is better: smooth or corrugated. There are different models of profiles on the market, including those with uneven and rough walls and sides. With the same metal thickness, it is more rigid, which seems to be good. But how good is he at work? Watch the video.

Plasterboard partition from start to finish. Here the installation of the partition is filmed step by step. Everything is quite accessible, you can take it as a basis and build walls from drywall with your own hands.