In order to build a brick oven, it is not necessary to seek the help of specialists, you can choose a simple design of the oven masonry and do the work yourself. And the purpose of this article is to help you with this.

And in order to choose the right option, you need to take into account the following requirements:

• the size of the stove depends on the volume of the heated room;
• sufficient space is required for the installation of the heating system;
• the stove is positioned so that it creates a thermal curtain for the cold air entering the room (closer to the entrance, most often at the main wall);
• it is important to provide easy access to the stove from all sides, this is necessary for the timely cleaning of the chimney and control over the operation of the heating system as a whole.

Types of wood stoves

According to the design model, wood-burning brick stoves for heating houses are divided into Russian, Dutch and Swedish stoves. These three models are the most requested of all available. And for their immediate purpose, they distinguish stoves with a hob, heating and heating and cooking. it is most often used in personal subsidiary plots for cooking feed, heating water, and only in some cases for cooking.

A stove made for heating a private house differs significantly from a stove for a summer residence, in which living is carried out only during the summer season, and heating is required only in early spring and late autumn. In connection with the increased popularity of owning a personal plot, we present to your attention a photo of various options for brick wood-burning stoves for a summer residence.

Despite the complexity of the design of a brick wood-burning stove, you can easily build it yourself. This requires certain building materials, cast iron parts and tools.

Construction Materials:

1. , brand Ш8, withstands high temperatures (up to + 1600 С), it is usually used for the construction of a firebox, it retains heat well and is durable when compared with other types of bricks.
2. withstands temperatures up to + 800 C, it is used for the installation of the entire structure of the furnace, is quite brittle and therefore you need to be extremely careful during transportation and work with it. More about.
3. A mastic designed for gluing brickwork, withstanding high temperature conditions (up to + 1500 C), you can use the ready-made mixture "Garant +". For better adhesion of the stove masonry, we recommend preparing the following solution: take mastic, chamotte powder and chamotte clay in proportions 1: 1: 1.

Cast iron parts:

• firebox door;
• blower door;
• hob (depending on the selected oven design);
• grate bars (cast-iron grate inside the stove, located between the firebox and the blower);
• chimney valves.

Tool:

1. Electric circular saw, "grinder".
2. An electric sharpener, with the help of it they remove the chamfer from the bricks.
3. Hammer.
4. A set of spatulas of different sizes. (some more are discussed in this article)
5. Building level and plumb line.
6. Electric drill.

Furnace installation (step by step)

Before starting work on laying out a brick wood-burning stove, it is necessary to prepare a stand that will relieve the floor from excessive stress and overheating. It consists of several layers: plywood treated with an anti-rotting compound (at least 4 mm thick), basalt cardboard, aceite (8 mm) and galvanized (0.7 mm). To protect the wall from overheating, it is necessary to build a heat shield from an aceite sheet, basalt cardboard and galvanized steel.

To begin with, we will discuss the features of the installation of the main structural details: oven doors, grate, chimney valves.

The installation of the stove doors is carried out as follows: the cast-iron parts of the firebox and blower doors are attached to the brickwork using steel wire and mortar, but it will be safer to use a stainless steel frame that matches the size of the opening for the firebox door and blower.

The grates are installed in the combustion chamber, taking into account the expansion during heating, leaving a gap of at least 5 mm between them. They are mounted on two cast iron or steel plates with a minimum thickness of 6 mm. The grates are installed in such a way that nothing prevents their replacement.

To install the stove valve, it is necessary to ensure that it enters the brickwork by at least 20 mm, and a basalt frame should be placed under it.
Video on laying a brick wood stove:

Furnace layout (ordering)

Each type of wood-burning stove has its own brick layout (ordering), adhering to which you can easily and efficiently perform installation work. But for more confidence, it is recommended to lay out a couple of test rows without mortar. This is necessary in order to estimate the required number of bricks and check the correctness of the ordering scheme. And it is best to carry out this "fitting" throughout the entire work.

Consider the ordering option used when laying out the Swedish oven. So let's get started .

1 row - on the bottom of the structure of the future furnace we lay a sheet of roofing material of the required size, on it a layer of sand no more than 10 mm thick, it is necessary to ensure that the base is strictly horizontal. We lay out the corners of the structure.

2nd row - a blower door is installed using steel wire and mortar.

3rd row - we lay out the bricks in such a way that the brick of the new row overlaps the joint of the bricks of the previous row. On the right side, we lay a strip of metal with dimensions: width - 40 mm, thickness at least 4 mm, length - 400 mm.

4th row - it is necessary to install a pair of metal corners, the vertical shelves of which are turned down and inserted into the seams of the brickwork. Next, we install the grate.

5th row - it is necessary to cut the corners of the bricks of this row, directly adjacent to the grate, by 70-80 mm.

6th row - we start installing the cast-iron door for the firebox, fastening is due to steel wire and mortar, but so that the brickwork does not collapse from heating of cast iron, the door frame must be wrapped with an asbestos cord.

7 row, as well as 8 and 9 rows - we continue to cover the firebox door, it is necessary to monitor the thickness of the horizontal seams, they should not exceed 5 mm, as a result, it is necessary to ensure that the 9th row of masonry coincides in level with the upper side of the firebox door frame.

10 row - laid out according to the scheme, which consists in overlapping with bricks a new row of joints of the previous one.

11 row - we lay out the row completely, and on top we place two strips of steel with the following dimensions: width - 45 mm, thickness - 4 mm, length less than 400 mm.

12th row - a whole brick is laid on the left side on steel strips, and on the right two bricks are placed in the size of 3/4 of the whole, thus it is necessary to match the size of the resulting opening with the size of the hob with one burner. Along the entire edge of the resulting opening, lay out an asbestos cord, previously moistened with water and solution. We fasten the panel with steel wire, check the horizontal level with a level.

Row 13 - we lay bricks on the back of the hob, while leaving a thermal gap of at least 10 mm, which is later covered with sand.

14, as well as 15, 16 and 17 rows - are laid out according to the ordering scheme. Align the wall to the left of the hob in height with all the masonry. For the construction of the ceiling above the hob, on the 17th row brickwork we place three corners with a length of about 600 mm and three strips of solid steel, at least 300 mm long.

18 row - with the help of brickwork, we overlap the cooking chamber, carefully filling the joints with mortar.

19 row - on the right side in the brickwork, it is necessary to leave an opening half a brick in size, intended for cleaning the furnace.

20 row - when laying out a row, we install a "knockout" brick in the above opening, attach a plate of steel 140 mm in size on each side of the bricks of this row, this is necessary for the zigzag movement of gases in the smoke channel, which, in turn, will ensure uniform heating of all oven walls.

21 row - the laying out of partitions begins, separating the lowering and lifting smoke channels.

Row 22 - lay out a row of brickwork and install another steel plate with the same dimensions (see row 20).

23 row - brickwork must comply with the ordering scheme.

24 row - the last steel plate is installed on the bricks of this row to ensure the zigzag movement of gases in the smoke channel.

25 row - on the finished row we place a sheet of steel with a cut out hole at the location of the smoke channel. The sheet is fixed with steel strips.

26 row - we lay out the brickwork in accordance with the ordering scheme, after which we install the chimney valve.

27 row - a continuous row is laid out with a hole for the chimney.

28 row - is the last row of the furnace, after which all the joints of the brickwork are checked for fullness to ensure complete tightness.

29th row - a pipe is laid out, passing through the wooden roof covering. And when installing the pipe, it is necessary to comply with all fire safety rules, using special material.

Video of laying a Swedish stove with three heating modes:

Video of the masonry oven "Shvedka" with a fireplace designed by A.I. Ryazankina:

Video of masonry heating cooking stove-Swedish:

Video on laying a Swedish stove with a stove bench:

Video on laying a Swedish stove with a fireplace:

The device and masonry of a heating and cooking stove of the Swedish type:

Stove Shvedka A Batsulin two-bell with oven video masonry:

Drying

After completing all the work on the installation of a brick wood-burning stove, built to heat the house, it is necessary to dry it:

• natural drying lasts for 6-8 days, for this it is necessary to open all the latches and doors, the moisture will evaporate naturally;
• forced drying consists in burning a small amount of firewood with only the fire door closed, this drying lasts about 10 days with the daily addition of the amount of firewood burned for drying.

Work on the construction of a wood-fired brick oven over and it's not as difficult as it might seem at first glance. It takes a lot of effort and time, but the end justifies the means. Perhaps, after reading the above information, questions might have arisen, so let's clarify some points again.

Clarifying information on working with ordinal brickwork

• work on laying out the oven must be started from the corner;
• brick of a new row, should always overlap the joint of bricks of the previous row;
• the ashtray door, firebox and grate are installed and fixed to the structure using steel wire;
• mortar used for laying bricks is poured into the space formed behind the grate;
• it is important to remember that the firebox must be laid out with a specially designed brick;
• the hob, if used during installation, is better placed on a metal corner welded into a single frame, this will allow the structure to be more durable;
• the chimney and chimney of the furnace under construction must have the same hole size.

Things to Consider When Building a Wood Stove

• it is necessary to ensure the complete safety of the operation of a wood-burning brick stove intended for heating a private house;
• mandatory, otherwise the smoke will enter the room;
• if the stove smokes during melting, this may be due to insufficient draft, therefore, it is necessary to check if the damper is closed or to clean the chimney;
• the chimney must be cleaned at least once a year;
• for the base of a brick wood-burning stove intended for heating a house, it is most advisable to use

Today, numerous manufacturers of solid fuel heating equipment offer us the widest range of metal stoves and boilers, which is replenished with more and more new models from year to year. But despite all their advantages, the owners of non-gasified houses still retain the honor of an ordinary brick stove - this is evidenced by numerous reviews on thematic forums. What is the reason for the truly popular love for this unit? Our article will not only give an answer to this question, but also introduce the reader to various types of furnaces and the technology of building a brick type with your own hands.

Advantages and disadvantages of a brick oven in the house

So, let's try to understand why an old heating device is often more preferable than its modern high-tech counterparts. There are several reasons:

• The furnace body is an excellent heat accumulator: Due to this property, a brick furnace has to be heated much less frequently than a conventional steel and even cast iron one. Some varieties keep heat up to 24 hours, while firewood needs to be thrown into the firebox of a metal stove every 4-6 hours.
• The ability to store heat makes a brick oven more economical and less harmful to the environment than its metal “substitutes”. The fuel burns in it in the optimal mode - with the highest heat transfer and almost complete decomposition of organic molecules into water and carbon dioxide. The resulting excess heat is absorbed by the brickwork and then gradually transferred to the room.
• The outer surface of the oven does not heat up to high temperatures.

Due to this, the heat radiation generated by this unit is softer than that of hot steel stoves. In addition, on contact with hot metal, the dust contained in the air burns up, emitting harmful volatile substances (this can be recognized by the characteristic unpleasant odor). Of course, they cannot be poisoned, but they certainly do harm to health.

• A brick oven (this does not apply to stone) emits steam when heated, and when it cools, it absorbs it again. This process is called oven breathing. Thanks to him, the relative humidity of the heated air always remains at a comfortable level - within 40-60%. When operating any other heater that is not equipped with a humidifier, the relative humidity in the room decreases, that is, the air becomes dry.

The steel stove has nowhere to put the excess heat, so it either has to be heated often by adding small portions of fuel, or operated in a smoldering mode. In the latter case, the operating time on one fuel tab increases, but it burns out with incomplete heat transfer and with a large amount of carbon monoxide and other substances harmful to the environment - the so-called. heavy hydrocarbon radicals.

It is not difficult to make sure of this: a brick stove gives out noticeable dark smoke only during kindling, while from the chimney of a steel stove, in which the fuel smolders, black smoke is constantly pouring down. Metal solid fuel heaters of long burning (full-fledged, not so-called gas-generating furnaces, only imitating gas generation) are devoid of this drawback. But they are very expensive, have a complex design and need power supply, without which a brick oven can easily do.

What can be opposed to all of the above? The cooled room with a brick oven heats up for a long time. Therefore, homeowners are still advised to acquire an additional steel convector, which heats the air in a forced mode while the stove is heated.

It should also be noted that a brick oven is a rather massive structure that should be erected along with the house. And this should ideally be done by an experienced master who still needs to be found.

Application of brick ovens

The scope of application of stoves is not limited by their main functions - heating and cooking. Here are some other tasks that such a unit can solve:

1. Smoking meat and fish.
2. Remelting scrap metal (cupola furnace).
3. Hardening and cementation of metal parts (muffle furnaces).
4. Firing of ceramic products.
5. Heating of blanks in a blacksmith shop.
6. Maintaining the required temperature and humidity conditions in the bath.

But in poultry houses, greenhouses, greenhouses and livestock farms, it is not recommended to build a brick oven: here she will have to breathe putrefactive fumes, which will lead to quick spoilage.

Varieties of structures

The above scheme can be modified in different ovens. The most common options are Dutch, Swedish, Russian and bell-type.

Dutch woman

This scheme is called channel serial. Such a furnace is very simple to manufacture and its design can be easily adjusted to any room, but the maximum efficiency for it is only 40%.

Swedish unit

A very good option for a heating and cooking stove.

A very good version of a heating and cooking stove. Its scheme is called a chamber. The chamber, the walls of which are washed by hot flue gases, is used as an oven. The duct convector is located behind the oven and occupies the entire space from floor to ceiling. This scheme has several advantages:

• Efficiency at the level of 60%;
• a heat exchanger can be installed on the side of the oven to heat water, which will be stored in a storage tank on the oven roof;
• gases enter the convector relatively cold (they burn out in the chamber part), therefore, building bricks and ordinary cement-sand mortar can be used for its construction;
• a convector with this shape warms up the room to its full height as evenly as possible;
• near a Swedish oven, you can quickly warm up and dry out if you open the oven door.

Furnaces of this type are difficult to manufacture, require very high quality materials and require a foundation.

Bell furnace

Self-regulation scheme: flue gases enter the chimney only after they have completely burned out under the hood.

Such a mechanism provides an efficiency of over 70%, but this furnace is rather complicated to manufacture (there are high loads in the design). And it can only be used for heating.

Russian stove stove

The scheme of a Russian stove, like an English fireplace, is called a flowing one. The convector is not provided in it.

The scheme of a Russian stove, like an English fireplace, is called a flowing one. The convector is not provided in it. The owner of the Russian stove wins in the following:

• The efficiency reaches 80%;
• the structure has an interesting appearance;
• such dishes of our national cuisine are becoming available for cooking, which cannot be cooked otherwise than in a Russian oven.

The Russian stove can be folded independently if you follow the drawings carefully. The slightest deviations can ruin the structure.

General device of the furnace, drawing

The design of the furnace is not particularly complicated.

In the brick massif there is a chamber with a door in which fuel is burned - a firebox (in the figure - positions 8 and 9). In its lower part there is a grate (pos. 7), on which fuel is placed and through which air enters the furnace. There is another chamber under the grate, called an ash pan or a blower, which is also closed by a door (pos. 4 and 6). Through this door, air from outside enters the furnace and through it the ash that has fallen into it is removed from the ash pan.

Through an opening at the rear wall, flue gases enter the hailo (pos. 11) - an inclined duct directed towards the front wall. Khailo ends with a constriction - a nozzle. This is followed by a U-shaped channel called a gas convector (pos. 16).

The walls of the gas convector heat the air moving through a special channel inside the oven. This duct is called an air convector (pos. 14). A door (pos. 18) is installed at its outlet, which is closed in summer.

The chimney contains the following elements:

• cleaning door (pos. 12): through it, the flue duct is cleaned;
• a valve for setting the combustion mode (pos. 15);
• view (pos. 17): it is also a valve, by means of which, after firing up, when all the carbon monoxide has already evaporated, the chimney is blocked in order to retain heat.

The thermal insulation surrounding the chimney in the area of ​​intersection of the attic floor and the roof is called cutting (pos. 23). At the intersection of the overlap, the chimney walls are made thicker. This broadening is called fluff (item 21), it is also considered cutting.

After crossing the roof, the chimney has another widening - an otter (pos. 24). It prevents rain moisture from penetrating into the gap between the roof and the chimney.

Other positions:

• 1 and 2 - foundation with heat and waterproofing;
• 3 - legs or trenches: for a stove with such elements, less brick is required, moreover, it has an additional heating surface from below;
• 5 - the beginning of a special air channel (stranglehold), through which uniform heating of the room in height is achieved;
• 10 - furnace roof;
• 13 - bend of the air convector, called overflow or pass;
• 20 - stove overlap;
• 22 - attic floor.

Preparation for construction

Required materials, selection

When erecting a furnace, the following types of bricks are used:

1. Building ceramic bricks (red). They are laid out the lowest rows - the so-called underfloor part (indicated by oblique shading in the diagram), as well as that part of the chimney in which temperatures below 80 degrees are observed.
2. Furnace ceramic bricks. It is also red, but in comparison with construction it has a higher quality (brand - M150) and can withstand higher temperatures - up to 800 degrees. Outwardly, they can be distinguished by their size: the dimensions of the stove are 230x114x40 (65) mm, while for the construction one - 250x125x65 mm. The firing (furnace) part of the furnace is laid out with oven bricks, in the diagram it is indicated by hatching in a box.
3. Fireclay brick. The firebox is lined with this material from the inside. It can withstand temperatures up to 1600 degrees, but its advantages are not limited to this. Fireclay brick combines a high heat capacity (it is a very "capacious" heat accumulator) and an equally high thermal conductivity.

Note! In this case, a facing brick cannot be used.

Due to the high thermal conductivity, it is impossible to lay out the hot part with fireclay bricks alone - the furnace will heat up too much and cool down very quickly due to intense heat radiation. Therefore, the outer surface must necessarily be lined with oven bricks at least half a brick.

The dimensions of the fireclay bricks are the same as those of the stove bricks. It is often recommended to determine its quality by color depth, but this method is only valid for those products for which the clay was mined in one place. If we compare chamotte clay from different deposits, then the color does not always give an objective characteristic: dark material may well be inferior in quality to light yellow.

A more reliable indicator of quality is the absence of pores and foreign particles distinguishable by the eye, as well as a fine-grained structure (in the figure, a quality sample is on the left). When tapping with a metal object, a high-quality fireclay brick should emit a sonorous and clear sound, and when dropped from a certain height, it splits into large pieces. A low-quality one will respond to tapping with dull sounds, and when dropped, it will crumble into many small fragments.

Also, during the construction of the furnace, the following solutions are used:

1. Cement-sand: those parts of the kiln, which consist of ordinary building bricks, are laid on an ordinary cement-sand mortar.
2. High quality cement-sand: this solution, consisting of rock sand and Portland cement of the M400 and higher grade, is used if an irregular furnace is supposed to be fired. The fact is that a dried clay solution, with insufficient heating, can be saturated with moisture and turn sour again. That is why, in areas with temperatures below 200-250 degrees (on the diagram - oblique shading with filling), instead of clay, a high-quality cement-sand mortar based on rock sand is used. We emphasize that this should be done only if the oven will often be idle during the cold season.
3. Clay solution. This solution also requires mountain sand. It is characterized by the absence of organic residues, due to which the seams would quickly crumble. But now it is not necessary to buy expensive mountain sand: solutions of excellent quality are obtained on the basis of sand from ground ceramic or fireclay bricks.
4. High-quality clay is more expensive than sand, so they try to minimize its amount in the solution.

To determine the smallest required amount of this material, subject to the use of sand from ground bricks, proceed as follows:

• the clay is soaked for a day, then mixed with water until it looks like plasticine or thick dough;
• dividing the clay into portions, prepare 5 solution options: with the addition of 10% sand, 25, 50, 75 and 100% (by volume);
• after 4 hours of drying, each portion of the solution is rolled into a cylinder 30 cm long and 10–15 mm in diameter. Each cylinder should be wrapped around a 50mm blank.

We analyze the result: a solution without cracks or with small cracks in the surface layer itself is suitable for any task; with a crack depth of 1–2 mm, the solution is considered suitable for masonry with a temperature of no more than 300 degrees; with deeper cracks, the solution is considered unusable.

Tool

In addition to the standard set of tools for masonry work, which includes:

• trowel;
• hammer pick;
• grooving for seams;
• mortar shovel.

The stove-maker must have a rake-order. It has a section of 5x5 cm, brackets for fastening in the seams and marks corresponding to the position of the individual rows. Having installed 4 orders at the corners, it will be easy to ensure the verticality of the masonry and the equality of the width of the seams between the rows.

Calculation of a simple heater

The method for calculating the furnace is extremely complex and requires a lot of experience, but there is a simplified version proposed by I. V. Kuznetsov. It demonstrates a fairly accurate result, provided that the outside of the house is well insulated. For 1 m 2 of the surface area of ​​the furnace, the following heat transfer values ​​are taken:

• under normal conditions: 0.5 kW;
• in severe frosts, when the stove is heated especially intensively (no more than 2 weeks): 0.76 kW.

Thus, a furnace with a height of 2.5 m and dimensions in terms of 1.5x1.5 m, with a surface area of ​​17.5 m 2, will generate 8.5 kW in the normal mode, and 13.3 kW in the intensive mode. This performance will be sufficient for a house with an area of ​​80–100 m 2.

The calculation of the firebox is also very complicated, but today it is not necessary. Instead of designing and manufacturing a homemade firebox, it is better to buy a ready-made one in the store: it is already calculated according to all the rules and will be cheaper.

When choosing a firebox, consider the following:

1. The size of the firebox and the location of the fasteners must correspond to the size of the brick used.
2. For a stove that is used from time to time, you can purchase a welded sheet steel firebox; for permanent use, you only need to buy a cast iron firebox.
3. The depth of the ash shaft (the lower narrowing of the furnace) should be one third of the height of the combustion chamber if most of the time the stove will be fired with coal or peat, and one fifth if wood fuel or pellets are the main fuel.

The cross-section of chimneys that meet standard requirements (straight vertical passage, head height above the grate is from 4 to 12 m) is selected according to the recommendations specified in SNiP, depending on the furnace power:

• with heat transfer up to 3.5 kW: 140x140 mm;
• from 3.5 to 5.2 kW: 140x200 mm;
• from 5.2 to 7.2 kW: 140x270 mm;
• from 7.2 to 10.5 kW: 200x200 mm;
• from 10.5 to 14 kW: 200x270 mm.

It is impossible to accurately calculate the power of the stove, therefore, sometimes there may be a discrepancy between the adopted section of the chimney and the performance of the unit - the stove begins to smoke. In this case, it is enough to simply increase the height of the chimney by 0.25–0.5 m.

Empirical formulas have been developed to determine the number of bricks, but they give an error of up to 15%. The only way to do an accurate calculation manually is to simply count the bricks in order, which will only take about an hour. A more modern option is to simulate the oven in one of the computer programs intended for this. The system itself will draw up a specification, which will indicate the exact number of whole bricks, as well as cut, shaped, etc.

Choosing a place, schemes

The way the stove is installed depends on the size of the house and the location of the various rooms in it. Here is an option for a small country house:

In the cold season, such a stove will heat the entire building with high quality, and in summer, with an open window, it can be quite comfortable to cook on it.

In a large house with permanent residence, the stove can be positioned as follows:

In this version, the fireplace stove installed in the living room is equipped with a purchased cast iron firebox with a heat-resistant glass door.

And thus, a brick oven can be installed in an economy class dwelling:

When considering the location of the oven, consider the following:

1. A structure with more than 500 bricks must have its own foundation, which cannot be part of the foundation of the house.
2. The chimney must not come into contact with attic beams and roof rafters. It should be borne in mind that in the intersection zone of the attic floor, it has a broadening, called fluff.
3. The minimum distance from the pipe to the ridge of the roof is 1.5 m.

There are exceptions to the first rule:

1. The hob with a low and wide body, equipped with a heat shield, can be installed without a foundation if the floor is able to withstand a load of at least 250 kg / m2.
2. In a house with a strip sectional foundation, a stove with a volume of up to 1000 bricks can be erected at the intersection of the foundations of the inner walls (including T-shaped ones). In this case, the minimum distance from the furnace foundation to the building foundation strips is 1.2 m.
3. A small Russian stove is allowed to be erected on a base made of a wooden bar with a section of 150x150 mm (the so-called guardianship), resting on the ground or rubble laying of the foundation of the building.

Preparatory work consists in the construction of the foundation and laying of heat and waterproofing. If the furnace is equipped with trenches, a strip foundation is built under it, you can use rubble. An ordinary stove (without trenches) is erected on a monolithic reinforced concrete slab. On each side, the foundation should protrude at least 50 mm beyond the outline of the furnace.

The insulating "pie" is typed in the following sequence:

• roofing material is laid on the foundation in 2 or 3 layers;
• basalt cardboard 4–6 mm thick or the same sheet of asbestos is placed on top;
• then put a sheet of roofing iron;
• it remains to lay the last layer - basalt cardboard or felt impregnated with highly diluted masonry mortar.

Laying can only be started after the top layer has dried to the roof gland.

Before the start of masonry work, a fireproof covering must be built on the floor in front of the future furnace, which is usually a sheet of roofing iron laid on a lining of asbestos or basalt cardboard. One edge of the sheet is pressed by the first row of bricks, the rest are bent and nailed to the floor. The front edge of such a coating should be at least 300 mm away from the oven, while its side edges should extend beyond the oven by 150 mm on each side.

Step-by-step instruction

Masonry rules in accordance with the order

The oven is placed in accordance with the order (see fig.).

Stick to the following rules:

1. The seams between the bricks in the arch of the firebox and the underfloor part can be up to 13 mm wide, in other cases - 3 mm. Deviations are allowed: upwards - up to a width of 5 mm, downwards - up to 2 mm.
2. It is impossible to bandage the seams between ceramic and fireclay masonry - these materials differ greatly in thermal expansion. For the same reason, the seams in such areas, as well as around metal or concrete elements, are given a maximum thickness (5 mm).
3. The laying must be carried out with the bandaging of the seams, that is, each seam must be overlapped by a neighboring brick at least a quarter of its (brick) length.
4. The layout of each row begins with corner bricks, the position of which is checked with a level and a plumb line. So that the verticality does not have to be checked every time, the cords are pulled strictly vertically along the corners of the furnace (for this you need to hammer nails into the ceiling and into the seams between the bricks) and then they are guided by them.
5. Doors and dampers are fixed in the masonry by means of knitting wire laid in the seams, or by means of clamps made of steel strip 25x2 mm. The second option is for the firebox door (especially its upper part), oven and heat dampers: here the wire will quickly burn out.

In the fluff and otter, only the outer size of the chimney increases, the inner section remains unchanged. The thickness of the walls increases gradually, for which plates cut from bricks are added to the masonry. The inner surface of the chimney must be plastered.

How to make a heating unit with your own hands

The erection of the furnace body begins from the underfloor part.

1. In the absence of sufficient experience, the rows should first be laid out without mortar and well leveled, and only then the row should be shifted to the solution. Also, novice craftsmen are recommended to lay out the underfloor part of the furnace in the formwork.
2. After laying the 3rd row, a blower door is installed on it.
3. It must be leveled. To seal the gap between the brick and the frame, the latter is wrapped with an asbestos cord.
4. Next, lay out the hot part, for which they use oven and fireclay bricks.
5. Before laying, the blocks are cleaned from dust with a brush. Ceramic brick must be moistened by dropping it into a container with water, then shaken off. Wetting fireclay bricks is not only not required, but also not allowed. Many stove-makers apply the solution by hand, since it is not easy to lay a thin layer of 3 mm with a trowel. The brick must be immediately laid down correctly, without straightening or tapping. If it was not possible to do this the first time, the operation must be repeated, having previously removed the mortar smeared on the brick - it can no longer be used.
6. After laying several more rows, the ash pan chamber is covered with a grate. It should lie on fireclay bricks, in which the corresponding grooves are cut.
7. The combustion door is installed in the same order in which the blower door was installed.
8. Lay out the rows of the furnace part. If a low slab is being erected, then the row of bricks above the furnace door must be slightly moved back so that they are not overturned by a heavy cast-iron sheet when it is opened.
9. The combustion chamber is covered with a hob or vault (in purely heating stoves). Due to the significant difference in thermal expansion between cast iron and clay, the slab cannot be laid on the mortar - an asbestos cord must be placed under it.
10. Next, they continue laying the furnace in accordance with the order, making out the gas convection system. In order for soot to collect at the bottom of the gas convector, from where it can be easily removed, the height of the lower interchannel passages (overflows) must be 30-50% higher than the upper ones (they are called passes). The edges of the passes need to be rounded off.

Having finished the construction of the furnace body, they proceed to the construction of the chimney.

Features of the formation of the arch

There are two types of vaults:

• flat: vaults of this type are laid from shaped bricks in the same way, but instead of a circle, a flat pallet is used. A flat vault has one feature: it must be perfectly symmetrical, otherwise it will crumble very soon. Therefore, even stove-makers with sufficient experience build this part of the stove using purchased shaped bricks and the same pallets;
• semicircular (arched).

The latter are laid out using a template, also called a circle:

1. They begin with the installation on the solution of the extreme support blocks - thrust bearings, which are preliminarily trimmed according to the drawing of the arch, made in full size.
2. After the solution has dried, a circle is installed and the wings of the arch are laid out.
3. The castle stones are driven in with a log or a wooden hammer, after applying a thick layer of mortar to the installation site. At the same time, they monitor how the solution is squeezed out of the wing masonry: if the masonry was performed without disturbances, this process will take place evenly throughout the arch.

The circle should be removed only after the solution has completely dried.

The angle between the axes of adjacent bricks in a semicircular vault should not exceed 17 degrees. With standard block sizes, the seam between them inside (from the side of the firebox) should have a width of 2 mm, and outside - 13 mm.

Rules and nuances of operation

For a stove to be economical, it must be maintained in good condition. A crack with a width of only 2 mm in the area of ​​the valve will provide a heat loss of 10% due to the uncontrolled flow of air through it.

It is also necessary to heat the stove correctly. With a strongly open blower, from 15 to 20% of the heat can fly into the pipe, and if the furnace door is opened during the combustion of the fuel, then all 40%.

The firewood used to heat the stove must be dry. To do this, they need to be prepared ahead of time. Raw firewood gives less heat, and in addition, due to the abundance of moisture in the chimney, a large amount of acid condensate is formed, which intensively destroys the brick walls.

In order for the oven to warm up evenly, the thickness of the logs should be the same - about 8-10 cm.

Firewood is laid in rows or in a cage, so that a gap of 10 mm remains between them. A distance of at least 20 mm should remain from the top of the fuel tab to the top of the firebox, even better if the firebox is 2/3 full.

The main mass of fuel is ignited with a torch, paper, etc. It is prohibited to use acetone, kerosene or gasoline.

After kindling, you need to close the view so that the heat does not erode through the chimney.

When adjusting the draft during kindling, you need to be guided by the color of the flame. The optimal combustion mode is characterized by a yellow fire color; if it turns white, air is supplied in excess and a significant part of the heat is thrown into the chimney; red color indicates a lack of air - the fuel does not burn completely, and a large amount of harmful substances is emitted into the atmosphere.

Cleaning (including from soot)

The stove is usually cleaned and repaired in the summer, while in the winter it will be necessary to clean the chimney 2-3 times. Soot is an excellent heat insulator, and a large amount of soot will make the stove less efficient.

Ash must be removed from the grate before each firebox.

The draft in the furnace, and hence the mode of its operation, is regulated by a view, a latch and a blower door. Therefore, the state of these devices must be constantly monitored. Any malfunction or wear and tear should be repaired or replaced immediately.

Video: how to fold the oven with your own hands

Whichever version of the brick oven you choose, it will work effectively only in a well-insulated house. Otherwise, there will be no friendship between them.

Brick stoves for a house or a summer cottage, which use solid fuel as a source of energy, are quite a necessary thing in country houses. If you know a few nuances, the heater can be easily built with your own hands. The advantage of this unit is the ability to use it for cooking.

Varieties of ovens

Different stoves for one family

Brick ovens for summer cottages or houses are divided into the following types depending on their functions:
heating - designed for heating living quarters.

Can be used in combination with other heating devices:

• cooking - used for cooking;
• cooking and heating - used both for heating the building and for cooking;
• Russians - a special type of wood-burning stoves, which is equipped with a stove bench;
• fireplace stoves - combine in one unit the functions of a closed stove and an open fireplace;
• specific devices - designed for drying clothes, berries, for heating a large volume of water.

Structural elements of brick stoves

Any stoves for home or summer cottages, regardless of their functionality, consist of the following elements:

• combustion chamber, where the process of burning firewood takes place;
• foundation - an obligatory part if the furnace is massive and produces a load of more than 250 kg / m2;
• grate - designed for placing solid fuel in the furnace and free movement of ash into the ash pan;
• ash pan - a small chamber where ash accumulates;
• chimney - designed to remove carbon monoxide from the heating system;
• blower - provides the system with fresh air.

Brick ovens for cooking are also equipped with a hob. Additionally, an oven, a drying chamber, a water heating tank and other devices can be installed to increase the functionality of the heater.

Brick pyrolysis stove

A brick stove of long burning outwardly does not differ in any way from an ordinary stove. It can be used to heat a house or summer cottage. The long-burning unit has a peculiar design. There is a special shaft inside a conventional combustion chamber. It connects to the intermediate bell, where the combustion gases from the firebox take place.

Advantages of long burning wood burning stoves:

• high efficiency - when using the same volume of firewood, you can get much
• more heat energy;
• high efficiency - in some devices this figure reaches 85%;
• a long-burning stove can be used as the only source of heat for the house;
• the gas that comes out through the chimney has almost no harmful substances;
• additionally, you need to lay firewood only after 5-6 hours.

When installing a long-term burning unit, it must be borne in mind that the firewood used for heating must be dry. If their humidity is increased, this will significantly reduce the productivity of the heater. The chimney for a long burning stove should be as vertical as possible.

It also needs to be cleaned frequently, because due to the low temperature of the exhaust gases, a large amount of soot accumulates on the inner surface of the flue duct.

Swedish stove

The Swedish stove, which is equipped with a hob, is one of the most successful models of brick heating appliances. It is equipped with an oven with a duct convector and a dryer.

The advantages of a Swedish stove:

• fairly high efficiency - 60%;
• the convector and the oven do not have feedback with the firebox, which allows you to choose different schemes for their placement;
• the convector can be built from ordinary brick and cement-sand mortar;
• this heater allows you to evenly heat the room along the entire height;
• the design of the stove allows you to vary its dimensions and configuration.

The main disadvantage of the Swedish stove is considered to be the high requirements for the quality of its installation.

What is needed to build a stove?

To build a stove for heating a house with your own hands, you need to stock up on the following tools:

• trowel;
• building level;
• plumb line;
• rule;
• hammer;
• roulette;
• shovel.

To build a heating device firebox with your own hands, use refractory fireclay bricks. For the construction of elements that are not exposed to high temperatures, ordinary red brick can be used. For the mortar, take sand and clay of medium fat. You can also buy a special mixture that is designed for stoves and fireplaces.

At a time when a stationary solid fuel stove was the only existing means of heating a house, the profession of a stove was very popular and respected. Today, for the arrangement of individual heating, you can use many different units operating on a wide variety of fuels, however, brick ovens are still in demand.

Nowadays, finding a truly competent stove-maker is not an easy task. And you don't need to do this, because you can lay out a full-fledged stove with your own hands.

Before you start laying the oven yourself, familiarize yourself with the features of the existing varieties of such units. Stoves are:

• heating. For heating purposes only. Such furnaces have an extremely simple design and are laid out in the shortest possible time and with the least effort in comparison with other types of structures;
• heating and cooking. The most popular and demanded option. Simultaneously heat the house and allow food to be cooked;

There are also improved varieties of heating and cooking stoves with a built-in cooker or even a full-fledged oven.

Fireplace stoves belong to a separate category. This is a great option for a modern private home. Such designs perfectly cope with the tasks of heating premises and have an attractive appearance. Correctly laid out and finished fireplace stove will be a worthy addition to the interior of both a small country house and an expensive private villa.

Schemes of modern ovens distinguish them not only by their purpose, but also by their shape features. Most often, rectangular and square units are installed in private houses. But if you wish, you can lay out a round oven. Choose a specific option, taking into account the characteristics of the room and your own preferences.

The oven, of course, can be laid out with your own hands and numerous schemes will help you do this in the shortest possible time. However, when performing such work, remember that any stove, regardless of its purpose, shape and other characteristics, must fully comply with the current fire safety standards.

Choosing a place and type of foundation for the stove

Before you start laying the stove, pay due attention to finding a place to place it. For example, if the unit is placed in the middle of the room, it will be able to give off much more heat, warming up from all sides and evenly heating the air around.

If you place the stove against the wall (and this option is most often used), cold air will constantly "walk" near the floor. Therefore, in this regard, you need to make a decision yourself.

Determine the place of installation of the combustion door in advance. This element must be installed so that in the future you can load fuel into the stove as conveniently and quickly as possible, without carrying garbage from firewood or coal throughout the house. Typically, the firebox door is located on the side of the kitchen or some little-visited room.

The finished brick stove will have a fairly impressive weight. In order for the device to stand as securely and long as possible, an individual concrete foundation must be prepared for it.

Furnace design features

Traditional brick ovens have a fairly simple design. However, seeming simplicity at first glance makes it possible to achieve very high rates of productivity and efficiency.

The main elements of the brick stove body are the firebox and the chimney. Cooking ovens are additionally equipped with stoves and / or ovens, it is also possible to install a tank for heating water.

The firebox is the main part of the furnace unit. It is in the firebox that firewood or other fuel used for heating is loaded. The firebox can have a wide variety of sizes. There are several important factors to consider when determining the appropriate dimensions, such as:

• type of fuel used. If you are going to heat the stove with wood, make a firebox 50-100 cm high;
• required performance;
• required volume.

Use refractory bricks to equip the firebox. The wall thickness of the structure under consideration cannot be less than half of the brick.

The chimney is also one of the main elements of any heating stove. The chimney is designed to remove flue gases with various harmful impurities formed during the operation of the furnace.

At the design stage of the chimney, try to think over everything so that its design has the minimum number of bends and turns. Ideally, the chimney should be completely vertical. Any kind of bending will lead to a deterioration in draft and a decrease in the efficiency of heating the room.

The ash pan chamber is one of the important structural elements of a brick kiln. Ash will collect in this compartment. Also, through the ash pan, air is supplied to the inside of the unit, to the fuel. The ash-pan is installed under the grate and is equipped with its own door. Traditionally, the height of the ash pan is 3 bricks.

What mortar should be used for masonry?

The reliability and durability of the finished oven directly depends on the quality of the masonry mortar. Masonry will be carried out using a mortar on a sandy-clay basis.

There is nothing difficult in preparing a solution. Take clay, fill it with water and soak it. Sift the mixture through a sieve and then stir in the clay milk. Finally, add some water to obtain a sufficiently viscous and plastic solution.

Remember, the reliability and durability of the oven directly depends on the correct preparation of the masonry mortar. Do everything right - the stove will effectively heat your home for many years. Violate the technology or decide to save a lot on materials - the heating unit is unlikely to be able to fully reveal its potential and stand for any length of time.

The main stages and important features of the oven masonry

From the moment the foundation is poured to the start of construction, 3-4 weeks should pass. During this time, the base will gain the necessary strength and be able to withstand the weight of the brick oven. The work in question requires maximum responsibility and concentration on the part of the performer. Any mistakes can lead to irreparable consequences, so tune in to work in advance and set aside sufficient time to complete it.

The laying of the stove is carried out in several stages.

First step. Lay out the ash pan and the lower part of the first hood out of bricks. Perform masonry using the previously discussed sand-clay mortar.

Second phase. Install the ash pan door in the masonry. Use galvanized wire to secure the door.

Stage three.

Stage four. Mount the firebox. Line the inside of this compartment with fire bricks. Lay the bricks on the edge. At this stage, you need to use a special masonry mortar. It is prepared in the same way as the standard one, but instead of simple clay, refractory clay is taken, i.e. fireclay. Secure the combustion chamber door with a steel plate and the wire you already know.

Fifth stage. Continue normal laying until you reach the 12th row. Having reached this row, close the combustion chamber and lay the hotplates evenly. This plate must be made of cast iron. Control the evenness of laying with a building level.

Sixth stage. Lay out the first cap. It is erected at the left edge of the stove. At the same stage, the canal for the summer run is being set up.

Seventh stage. Place the hob and line the sides of the cooking compartment. Lead the layout of the previously mentioned lower cap.

Eighth stage. Install the valve for the mentioned summer run channel. This latch is located in the inner corner of the brew compartment.

Ninth stage. Work up to the 20th row. When you reach this row, close the brew compartment and the first hood. Be sure to leave in the solid masonry the required number of openings for the summer run and the lift channel, as well as the vents for the cooking compartment. Place bricks on steel corners - this will ensure higher strength and reliability of the stove.

Stage ten. Close the portal of the brewing compartment with hinged fireplace doors. It is better that the doors have heat-resistant glass inserts. This solution will allow you to follow the fuel combustion process and admire the flame.

Eleventh stage. Install cleanout doors for easy soot removal. For installation, choose a location that is easiest for you to get to.

Twelfth stage. Line the hood walls almost up to the top edge of the wall opening. At the top, block the stove with a couple of rows of bricks. Fill the gap between the top of the stove and the lintel with mineral wool. This will provide additional thermal insulation and slightly increase the heating efficiency.

Thirteenth stage. Place a decorative band around the top perimeter of the unit.

Fourteenth stage. Proceed with the installation of the chimney. It is better that the chimney is brick. This design will last much longer than the same metal or asbestos pipes.

In the end, you just have to lay out the chimney to the end and, if desired, complete the outer finish of the stove. The easiest option is plastering. Otherwise, focus on your own preferences and available budget.

Thus, although laying the stove is not a simple event, it is quite possible to do it yourself. It is enough to simply understand the technology and follow the instructions in everything. Remember, materials for work must be of the highest quality. And the stove schemes proven over the years will allow you to independently build a unit that will heat your house with high quality for many years without any problems and complaints.

Happy work!

Video - Laying stoves with your own hands schemes

There are many options for heating a summer cottage today: centralized gas, boilers, electric heaters.

But if all this is not possible to implement due to the remoteness of the area from civilization, a do-it-yourself brick stove for a summer residence will be an excellent solution.

Reliable and durable - it will gather around it more than one generation of household members, providing the house with warmth and filling it with coziness.

The services of a good stove-maker are not a cheap pleasure. Therefore, if you decide to implement a brick oven project at your dacha, it will be useful for you to read this article, in which we will tell you about the principle of operation, features and layout of the oven structure.

A brick oven can become not only a functional device, but also the main highlight of the interior, if it is played correctly. Today, there are many ways to beautifully tiling and decorating a stone oven.

No matter how much time has passed since the appearance of the first stove structures and no matter how far the technologies for heating the dwelling have gone, the stone stove still does not lose its relevance. Compared to other types of heating (electricity, gas), it is more economical. At the same time, thick stone walls allow you to keep heat for another day after the firewood burns out.

According to their purpose, furnaces are divided into the following types:

• heating;
• cooking;
• multifunctional;
• combined.

• a combustion chamber, which is purchased ready-made, or laid out with fireclay bricks;
• ash pan where ash is collected;
• chimney.

A fireplace with an open or closed firebox can be attributed to the same type of construction. It is used not only for decorative purposes, but also allows you to effectively heat a room with an area of ​​15-20 square meters. meters.

Depending on the selected material, wall thickness, masonry scheme, heating stoves can have different heat output.

The most popular type of stove is the one-brick construction. This allows the walls to warm up to 60 0 C. The famous Dutch ovens are laid out according to this scheme.

In terms of dimensions, the heating stove can be wide and wide, or it can have an elongated rectangular shape. It all depends on the area of ​​the room, the style of the interior and the personal preferences of the owners.

Tiled tiles, decorative plaster, decorative stone are usually used for facing such a furnace.

Brick heating stoves in the form of a three-sided prism look very stylish and original, but a beginner will not be able to implement this option, since a lot of experience is required here. Of great difficulty is the cutting of bricks and the requirements for keeping the angle strictly under 60 0.

Round stoves, which are laid out according to the scheme of the famous Russian engineer in stove business V.E. Grum-Grigimailo, also look beautiful and unusual. The furnace works on the principle of free gas movement. To ensure tightness, the outside of the structure is covered with sheet metal. Such a stove is capable of heating a large country mansion and will become a real decoration for any home.

The design of the furnace consists of a brick body, inside of which there is a combustion chamber, an ash pan, and a chimney. A metal plate lies on top (an oven can be built in).

1. The heating and cooking stove is already a multifunctional design.

This is a more difficult project to implement, since it consists of:

• combustion chamber;
• chimney;
• ash pan;
• hob;
• oven.

The stove looks massive and is usually chosen for summer cottages, where no other heating option is provided.

In our country, heating and cooking stoves are the most popular, allowing you to heat a house and prepare a delicious meal for the whole family.

It can be additionally equipped with a drying chamber, where you can make preparations for the summer: mushrooms, berries, fruits. In cold and damp weather, in this chamber you can quickly and safely dry clothes and shoes.

By the way, ovens with drying chambers were first thought up in the countries of Northern Scandinavia, where hunters and fishermen needed to dry clothes and boots overnight.

Many schemes of heating and cooking stoves have additional devices in the form of a comfortable stove bench, drying for wood, an oven, and a hot water tank.

Furnace device for giving and its features

The main elements of any brick oven for a summer residence are:

10 basic rules for laying a summer cottage

Which brick stove to choose for a summer residence?

The choice of furnace design determines the size and type of room. For large cottages, a massive stove structure with thick walls will be required, which will heat up for a long time, but at the same time it will be able to hold the temperature for a long time. Folding such a stove is not an easy task. This will require some experience and knowledge.

But even a beginner can cope with a small stove for heating a small cottage, if you follow a clear scheme and do not change the masonry rules.

In the first place in terms of popularity of heating and cooking stoves is worthily placed the Swede, who enjoys well-deserved love and respect among Russian stove-makers.

This design is a compact, ergonomic shape with a small hob, three-channel chamber. It is ideal for a small summer cottage, the length ranges from 880 to 1250 mm.

For the location of such a stove, a place is most often chosen between the kitchen and the living room. Thus, the stove serves a double function: it serves for cooking and decorates the living room with a fireplace.

On the Internet today, you can find hundreds of different layouts for laying a Swedish stove with a hob, so it will not be difficult to implement it for a summer residence. Many stove-makers have added additional options to the standard masonry scheme, therefore each design is named after its creator: Buslaev's, Kuznetsov's stove, etc. But the principle of operation in them is the same.

Traditionally, a Russian stove can be called a bulky massive structure, which is decorated not only with a hob with an oven, but also with a spacious stove bench.

This oven is already not only a functional device for preparing food, but also a place to relax. It allows you to warm up the room well, retaining heat for a long time, has a beneficial effect on the human body, making the owners of such stoves less susceptible to colds.

The building usually has two fireboxes (main and additional). Thanks to the special design of the furnace, heating is carried out evenly, from bottom to top. Any solid fuel is suitable for kindling, and especially strict requirements are not imposed on the materials for the masonry of the Russian stove.

A special place among small heating and cooking stoves is occupied by little V.A. Potapov, created by a famous engineer at the beginning of the 20th century. For its laying, only 211 bricks are needed, and the dimensions of the furnace are only 630 * 510 mm.

At the same time, such a baby contains a single-plate stove, a small oven for baking and a cooker hood. This version of the stove will be an excellent solution for a small garden house or dacha in one room.

In this article, we invite you to study the rules and basic points of laying a small heating and cooking stove.

Do-it-yourself oven masonry

Step 1. Choosing a brick and preparing tools

Which brick for laying a small summer cottage to choose? We need 2 types of bricks: fireclay (heat-resistant) for the construction of the firebox and red ceramic (not lower than M-150). You should not save on materials; further operational properties, safety and efficiency of the furnace depend on this.

Fireclay bricks can be easily recognized by their yellowish color and porous surface. This material contains refractory clay and chips. This material, in addition to its heat-resistant properties, is also valued for its ability to accumulate heat for a long time. Even after the firewood has completely died out, such a stove is capable of giving off heat for a long time.

Heat-resistant fireclay brick is able to withstand temperatures up to 1500 0 С, therefore the combustion chamber should be laid out exclusively from this material.

The smaller the mass of fireclay bricks, the more pores it contains, which are created by aluminum oxide. Such a brick will conduct heat very well. The cost of this material is almost 5 times higher than the price of red brick, but there is no need to save.

But laying out the entire furnace from fireclay bricks is also not worth it, the outer part of the structure does not heat up much, and the red ceramic brick looks more attractive.

When choosing bricks for your oven, pay attention to color and shape.

You can test the material. If you throw a brick from a height of 1.5 meters, and it does not crack, take this batch. Bad, overexposed bricks, on the other hand, can split into several pieces. Such a brick makes a dull sound when it falls.

The grade of brick for facing the furnace should be M150 or M200. The figure in this case means how much weight the brick can withstand by 1 cm 3.

Do not use sand-lime and hollow bricks. It's not even about the ability to withstand the heat - they can handle it. Silicate brick does not conduct heat well and it will not be very comfortable in a room with such a stove.

For mortar, you need sand, red oven clay and water. The appearance and durability of the oven directly depends on its quality and consistency. To prepare it, you should use medium liquid red oven clay. When frozen, it should not fall off, crumble.

The masonry will be made with a thickness of 0.5 mm, in this case, the precious heat will not quickly go away.

Also, for construction, you can use ready-made masonry mortar, which is sold in stores. Usually, it contains various impurities that add strength and heat resistance to the structure. In this case, it will be enough to dilute the dry mixture with water and bring it to a homogeneous state using a construction mixer.

In consistency, such a solution should resemble thick sour cream. If the mortar rolls off the trowel, add more dry mix. If it turns out to be too thick, then it will be difficult to work with it and make thin seams. Add some cold water and stir again.

So, for the construction of the furnace, we need the following materials:

• Masonry mortar (sand, red oven clay).
• Red ceramic brick M150 - 120 pieces.
• Fireclay bricks - 40 pieces.
• Foundation material (cement, graphium, sand).
• Roofing material.
• Asbestos cord, galvanized wire.
• Plywood or boards to create formwork.
• Reinforcing mesh for arranging the foundation.
• Grate.
• Metal plate for one bezel (cast iron).
• Ash pan and ash pan door (blower).
• Cast iron door for the firebox.
• Chimney valve.
• Chimney view.
• Metal cap for the chimney.

Tools that will be needed to build a stove.

• Building level.
• Scoop shovel.
• Construction marker.
• Protractor.
• Spatula, rule.
• Master OK.
• Measuring tape (tape measure).
• Construction plumb line.

Important! When laying a stove, a lot depends on the quality of the clay. Ideally, use medium-fat red river clay that has been outdoors for at least 2 years. Make exactly as much mortar as you can handle in "1 run". The solution quickly becomes thick and difficult to work with.

Step 2. Prepare the brick for laying the stove

Before proceeding with the laying of the stove, it is necessary to lay out all the brick in advance and prepare it according to the ordering scheme.

This stage includes dividing the brick into ½ or ¼ parts, cutting at the corners.

Study the diagram carefully and see which parts of the bricks you need for each row.

If necessary, you can number the brick, so that later it is easy to navigate in which row to insert it.

How to split a brick correctly? Before "beat off" the necessary part of the brick, according to the scheme, you first need to make a groove. This can be done with a hacksaw or file.

To make ½ brick, make 1 groove.

For 1/6 or 1/8 bricks, make a groove on all sides of the brick.

Step 3. Choosing a place for the oven

This is a very important stage in laying the stove, which it is advisable to carry out even at the stage of building a house.

But there are times when the decision to lay the stove arises from the owners of the houses already during the operation of the summer cottage. In this case, determine the place from which it will be easiest to remove the chimney.

It is also important to estimate the distance between the oven and windows and doors. After all, cold air blowing in from the doors can interfere with the natural circulation of heat in the house, reducing the efficiency of the stove.

In addition, the oven should not interfere with free movement around the room. It should become one with the space without creating any inconvenience. In many ways, the placement of the stove depends on the purpose.

The heating and cooking model is best placed in the kitchen, and the fireplace stove will look beautiful in the living room.

• The distance to the nearest wall should be at least 25 cm.
• The chimney must not pass through beams.
• The floor and wall will have to be lined with fire-resistant material.
• It is better to place the fireplace near the inner wall of the house. To increase efficiency, it makes sense to install a stove in the space between the kitchen and the living room. Thus, one stove will heat two rooms at once.

An excellent place to place the stove is the corner of the room, only if there is no front door opposite the corner, from which cold air will blow out the flame.

Step 4. Construction of the foundation

For the construction of a brick oven, a separate foundation must be made. If it is laid on the same cycle with the construction of a house, it is not a difficult task to complete it.

If you made the decision to lay the stove after the completion of the general construction, then it will be necessary to remove part of the finished floor and sink into the ground.

Why is it so important to keep a separate foundation? A brick oven, whatever its size, has a lot of weight, which will put a lot of pressure on the foundation. When shrinking, the house will shrink. This should in no way affect the shape and construction of the oven.

That is, the general foundation of the house should not pull the stove along with it, as this can lead to a violation of its sealing and deterioration of its technical properties.

Attention! Before laying bricks on mortar, lay the entire brick "dry". First, it will allow you to see if you have enough material. And secondly, even at the draft stage, you can see the difficult points that you will have to pay special attention to.

Step 5. Laying the stove

Attention! Before laying the stove, dip the bricks in a bowl of cold water to absorb the moisture. This will prevent them from drawing water from the mortar.

Fill this gap with sand. The entire under the stove will practically be occupied by grates, which will ensure good and simple maintenance of the stove, as well as complete burning of the wood.

We block the blower door with a brick.

Installing the combustion door

We install the furnace door, having previously wrapped it with an asbestos cord. To make it easier to mount it, put the door on a thick wire and support it on both sides with bricks. Then these bricks will need to be removed.

• 6th row. Closes the furnace door.

Here we begin to form the chimney pipe, creating overlaps for the two vertical channels.

We lay the base of the firebox, which we make from fireclay bricks.

• From 7-9 rows we lay out the firebox with fireclay bricks according to the scheme.

In this row, two bricks overlapping the grate must be cut at an angle of 45 degrees.

• 10 row - we close the oven. We create a partition from a brick, raising it by 2 cm. On the oven, up to the level of the partition, we apply a clay-sand mortar. Preparing a place for installing a hob.

It is necessary to make recesses in the bricks for a secure fixation with the slab and create thermal niches for the expansion of the metal. Immediately attach the slab to the dry one and number the bricks - so it will be easy for you later to lay the brick on the mortar and not be mistaken with the correct grooves under the slab.

We lay an asbestos strip on a brick (to expand the metal).

Step 6. Outlet of the chimney through the roof

This is a crucial step, which must ensure complete safety of the furnace operation.

Follow the norms of SNIP when pulling out a brick pipe through the roof. According to these standards, the gap between the roof and the chimney must be at least 13-25 cm.

Insulate with heat-insulating materials around the place where the pipe passes through the roof. This will provide reliable protection from cold air blown out and provide reliable fire safety.

If the oven is being installed in a residential building with a finished roof, it will be necessary to remove part of the roof. After the pipe is wire, it will be necessary to fully ensure the integrity of the roof in this place, so that during rain or snow, moisture does not get inside.

For waterproofing a stone pipe, a special plate is used, which resembles a kind of pedestal around the chimney. The joining of the slate and the metal plate is carried out using a sealant.

If you want to simplify the task, then the chimney will not be difficult to complete with sandwich-type steel pipes. They are stylish and easy to assemble. In addition, they have a much lower weight than bricks and will not create such pressure on the foundation.

When determining the required height of the chimney, be guided not only by the height of the roof, but also by the height of the ridge.

The efficiency of heating the room and the presence of traction directly depend on the correctly calculated parameters.

The edge of the chimney should protrude at least 0.5 meters above the ridge of the roof, otherwise the turbulence that forms around the roof can impede good draft and will constantly blow cold air into the chimney.

We are completing the construction of the chimney with a metal grate. It will prevent debris from entering the chimney.

We put on a metal cap on top, which reliably protects the pipe from precipitation.

Step 7. Lining the oven

There are many ways to decorate a stove beautifully for a summer residence.

Clinker tiles, tiled tiles, decorative plaster, artificial stone, etc. can be used as a decorative material.

Or you can just leave the stove in its original form, especially if you bought a high-quality beautiful brick.

Keep in mind that any facing material will reduce heat transfer. Therefore, if you do not want to lose thermal properties, you can cover the stove with a thin layer of decorative plaster.

Step 8. Heating up the stove

After complete lining of the furnace, you need to take a technological break for 10-14 days until the structure is completely dry. Leave the door wide open.

When you are sure that the mortar is completely dry, the first test kindling of the oven can be carried out. There is no need to rush and immediately, after laying, kindle firewood.

Firing up a damp stove prematurely can lead to cracking. Use ¼ part of the wood the first time, use small logs. This will allow the structure to dry well from the inside. Do not exceed the maximum temperature of 60-65 degrees during the first week of operation.

• Do not use garbage for kindling.
• The firebox door must be closed when firing.
• Preheat the oven gradually, do not immediately apply a high heat.
• Use good quality, well-dried firewood.

For the convenience of using a country stove, you can do it yourself with a stylish one, which will become a decorative and functional element in everyday life.

As you can see, if you follow a clear ordering scheme, it is not so difficult to fold a beautiful and solid summer cottage stove.

Video: Laying a brick oven "dry"

Below we give a detailed master class on laying a brick oven for a summer residence.

Video. Master class on laying a stove for a summer residence