Tables are an integral part of the interior. A variety of shapes, images and manufacturing styles make this piece of furniture not only necessary and important, but also a truly beautiful addition to the interior decoration of the room. Particular attention is paid to the legs, since they are the ones that have the most variations in performance. If you have the time and, most importantly, the desire to decorate your table and give it exclusive touches, then we will help you make it happen. How can I replace the legs of this piece of furniture on my own?

Materials and tools for making table legs

Currently, there are up to 20 types and methods of making legs. Of course, you can limit yourself to the classic version. A rectangular table with 4 straight legs will look great and stand firmly in the center of the kitchen.

REFERENCE! The most stable table will be (like any other furniture on supports), standing on three legs, provided that the tabletop is evenly distributed over the area, and not in one line. Yes, exactly three, not four. Remember the geometry course! The plane is defined by three points. Therefore, 3 points always lie in the same plane of space, and therefore, our structure will not swing from side to side under any conditions. Four points are more difficult to select so that they all coincide in one projection, therefore such a structure is more susceptible to loosening.

But despite all the huge variety of manufacturing options, the set of tools and materials is always about the same. Prepare everything you need for carpentry work and get down to business.

Materials:

1. A bar made of wood of any size, but not less than 50 × 100 mm (almost any species are suitable, but for beginners it would be better to use pine, since it is easier to process).
2. Metal pipes of rectangular or circular cross-section.
3. The use of plastic blanks is possible.
4. Glue.
5. Dye.
6. Varnish or special impregnation for the finished product.

Tools, depending on the choice of material and processing method, may require the following:

1. Roulette with a carpenter's pencil.
2. Level.
3. Drill with a set of drills for wood and metal (depends on the material).
4. Saw, jigsaw.
5. Sandpaper or sander.
6. Screws and screws.
7. Fastening systems.

There are many ways, each with their own advantages and disadvantages. We recommend that you work with timber structures. They are easy to process, do not require much effort and have a fairly good service life.

Mounting methods

When choosing a material, it is necessary to choose the method of fastening the legs that will best meet the requirements of the table and will be easy to do with your own hands without using special tools. A properly and well-assembled frame and leg attachment are key factors in providing reliable support and extending the life of the table. Therefore, this stage requires special attention.

Let's analyze the main types of fastening:

1. When using surface plates. The leg is simply screwed into a special hole on a threaded metal nail. Suitable for small, compact furniture.
2. Application of T-nuts. The nuts are inserted from the side into which the leg will be screwed.
3. Fixing to the worktop with standard screws. Does not require additional materials and makes an imitation of the integrity of the product.
4. Holders Z shape. Conveniently and easily mounted to the body.
5. Application of a special system of grooves and docking in them. This will require the processing of a piece of wood and the preparation of special holes and protrusions.

IMPORTANT! When carrying out work, it is necessary to use a tree with an optimal moisture content in the range of 6-8%. Excessively damp or shriveled material may change its size and damage the structure.

How to make table legs with your own hands

Of course, you can buy ready-made parts and attach them to the countertop. It's simple and doesn't take long. But if you have a desire to make your furniture unique, then you can try to build the legs yourself. Let's analyze two options, differing in the level of complexity and style of performance.

Method without additional finishing. Simple rectangular legs for a classic table:

1. Pick up 4 blocks and saw off workpieces from them about 0.7 - 0.82 m in length.
2. To make one leg, hold the two pieces together with glue. For a secure fit, fix them in a vice.
3. After adhesion, the parts should be given a strictly square shape; for this, saws are made along the edges.
4. Use sandpaper to remove any chipping or bumps from the wood.
5. To make a tapered shape and attach the legs to screws, cut off part of the material at an angle from the upper edge of the product. On two legs on the right and two on the left. We received a complete support kit.
6. Attach all of this to the screws or using one of the methods described above.

IMPORTANT! When working with glue, ensure good ventilation of the room and observe safety rules!

The second method differs only in that we give the workpiece a certain shape with curly cutouts on the frame (after we have glued two parts of the bar together):

1. We prepare in advance a drawing a diagram of a future work of art. This can be decorative carving, cuts along the entire length or decoration with inlay.
2. We carry out points above from 1 to 3.
3. We transfer the dimensions from the drawing to the detail.
4. Using a machine tool or a semicircular chisel, we cut off the "extra parts" and create a figured image for the leg.
5. We process the entire surface with a grinding machine or emery to make it smooth.
6. We cover with varnish or paint under a tree.
7. We repeat the same for the other 3 parts.

This method is much more complicated, but the result is much more beautiful. You and your loved ones will definitely like it and will amaze your guests.

A do-it-yourself table may well be made even by a home craftsman who does not have any accumulated experience in the carpentry craft. Of course, this will become possible if the design of the table is simple enough and understandable.

For example, it is not always possible to find a suitable ready-made model of a table for a kitchen that is too small in size. Buying custom-made furniture made of solid wood is quite expensive. Therefore, sometimes you have to take up the tools and design your own "work" yourself, starting from the specific dimensions of the place where you plan to install the table.

In addition, there is often a desire to show their creativity in a summer residence, especially since there is always a desire to beautifully equip a veranda or a gazebo in a suburban area. If you have the right materials and tools at hand, then you can either sit down to draw up a drawing of the future table, or use a ready-made project, and then get to work.

To figure out which type of table you can build with your own hands, it is advisable to consider several options for this piece of furniture.

Tools for the job

Before starting work, it is necessary to prepare the appropriate tools that will be required to make any wooden table. The amount of material for each model will be different.

You can use the usual, traditional hand tools that carpenters have always worked with. This list usually includes:

1. A plane with which the wood is leveled and the parts are driven to the desired size.
2. Chisels for sampling various holes and grooves, removing small protrusions.
3. Saws of various sizes and modifications with which to cut thick boards or make small cuts.
4. Pencil, tape measure, corner and ruler.
5. Screwdriwer set.
6. Clamps for temporary fixing of glued parts.
7. Sandpaper for sanding.

Many of the instruments can be replaced with more modern and convenient instruments:

• The electric jigsaw will do all the work that the various saws mentioned above have previously been used for.

Jigsaw rating

• The sander will help to make the surfaces smooth and polish them to a shine, eliminating the very tedious procedure of manual sanding.

• Milling machine with a set of cutters. This device will help round off sharp corners, drill curly grooves for furniture hinges, and if you need and have some experience, you can use it to decorate the table with a relief pattern.

• will significantly speed up the work, since you will not have to spend several minutes tightening each self-tapping screw. In addition, during certain operations, it is possible to install one of the cutters or conventional drills into it, for example, in order to process an edge or make a perfectly even large or small hole (groove).

• The building level will help to make the product even and neat, as it will show all possible irregularities and distortions.

To prevent the finished furniture from being "skewed", the assembly is controlled by the level

An easy-to-manufacture table for a summer cottage

Making such a country table is within the power of everyone

Necessary materials

For such a country house, having a tabletop size of 1680 × 850 mm, not too many wooden blanks will be required. You need to prepare the following:

1. Beam, section - 750 × 100 × 50 mm - 4 pcs. (table legs).
2. Self-tapping screws, bolts and possibly metal corners.
3. Joiner's glue.
4. Board, size:

• 1680 × 100 × 25 mm - 4 pcs. (longitudinal elements of the frame);
• 850 × 100 × 25 mm - 2 pcs. (transverse parts of the frame);
• 1580 × 100 × 25 mm - 2 pcs. (facing boards for side frame elements);
• 950 × 100 × 25 mm - 17 pcs. (boards for countertops).

All wooden elements must be treated with compounds and have a prepared smooth surface. If it is planned to "darken" the wood, then it is covered with a stain, and for the appearance of a textured pattern, they are carefully passed from above with a grinder. Fine-grained sandpaper will remove the soaked raised parts of the wood grain, and they will become lighter than the indentations.

Mounting a garden table

When all the parts for the frame are prepared, you can proceed to the assembly.

Frame or "box" of the table

• The first step is the details of the tabletop frame - four longitudinal boards measuring 1680 × 100 × 25 mm and two end boards 850 × 100 × 25 mm, laid out on a large table or on the floor. On the end boards, the layout of the internal and external boards is marked. Using a ruler, based on the drawing, the required distances are measured and marked with a pencil. It is imperative to accurately mark the width of the longitudinal board at the junction with the end board, especially if the connection will take place by a tie-in method.

The connection of elements can be done in different ways:

Connection with a choice of "quarter" and using metal corners

- using a steel angle - this is the easiest and most reliable way;

- the cut-in method is a more complicated method, since it requires exact dimensions not only in the width and length of the connecting elements, but also in the depth of the board;

Several types of tongue-and-groove connections

- "groove-thorn" shown in the second figure a), b), c), d) and e) such a connection is also quite difficult for novice craftsmen who have no experience;

- the connection with dowels is shown in f) - this method also requires perfect accuracy when marking and drilling holes in the parts to be joined.

• All connections are usually made using glue. The only exception is the butt joint of the parts with a metal corner.
• The frame must have perfectly adjusted right angles, therefore, after connecting all the elements, it is necessary to carry out control using a building angle and measuring and comparing the length of the diagonals.
• If the parts are fixed with glue, they must be fixed in clamps and left until it dries completely, otherwise they will not be connected securely.

• When the glue dries and the frame acquires a certain rigidity, facing boards measuring 1580 × 100 × 25 mm are fixed to the outer longitudinal sides. The place of their attachment also needs to be marked, since there should be a distance along their edges for mounting the legs. Facing boards are also glued and fixed with self-tapping screws, the caps of which should be sunk in the wood by 1.5 ÷ 2.0 mm.

• The next stage is the transverse sheathing of the table top with 950 × 100 × 25 mm boards. The place of their fastening must also first be marked, starting from the middle of the frame, since they must be installed at a distance of 5 mm from each other. The overhang of the worktop above the frame must be 25 mm on all four sides.

• Further, each of the boards are fixed in four places to the longitudinal elements of the "box" of the table, and the outer boards are also fixed to the end sides. So that the caps of the self-tapping screws are recessed, for them grooves with a diameter of 8 mm are drilled in the boards to a depth of 2 ÷ 3 mm, then, in the center of these grooves, through holes are drilled with a drill of a smaller diameter (usually 3 mm), into which the self-tapping screws will be screwed. To avoid cracking of the boards during installation work, through holes must be drilled.

• After that, legs from a bar with a section of 750 × 100 × 50 mm are fixed to the edges of the longitudinal boards, they must exactly coincide with the width of the table top.

The next step is to install the legs

• The legs can be fixed to the frame with self-tapping screws, but it is better to fix each of them with two bolts, placing them diagonally at the junction. Through holes are drilled for the bolts, and the nuts are tightened on them from the inside of the frame using a wrench.
• The final stage of manufacturing is the sealing of the caps of the self-tapping screws with a mixture made of carpentry or epoxy glue and sawdust. This homemade putty is used to fill the grooves above the caps and level them well. After the glue dries, the entire worktop, and especially the places covered with glue "plugs", must be well sanded.

• The table can then be coated with varnish or water-based paint. After waiting for the decorating or protective layer to dry, the product can be installed in a summer cottage, on a veranda or terrace in a recreation area.

If desired, it will be easy to make a bench or a set for a table.

Small folding table for the kitchen

Such a small folding table is perfect for a small kitchen or a very small room.

1. Its design is designed in such a way that the tabletop cannot fold on its own if the table leg is accidentally hit, so the table is quite safe for installation in a children's room.
2. The presence of a double-sided roomy bedside table will allow you to store various little things and small toys in it.
3. The table is equipped with a table top that is large enough for a child, sitting at it, to do their homework.
4. In addition, there is space on the tabletop for a laptop or books necessary for study.
5. If necessary, this small table can easily replace an ironing board if you put a soft cloth on its surface.

Considering all of the above, the table can be called multifunctional, despite its very compact size.

Find out how and also check out several models with detailed instructions in a special article on our portal.

Required materials and parts for a folding table

To assemble such a convenient piece of furniture, you need to prepare all the parts that make up it. The list of necessary blanks is given in the table below, and how to make them will be described and shown below:

Table layout with numbers of assembly parts (clickable illustration - click to enlarge)

Part No. in the drawing	the name of detail	Quantity, pcs.	Part size, mm	Manufacturing material, thickness, mm
1	Folding part of the table top.	1	600 × 600
2	Fixed table top.	1	600 × 475	Multi-layer plywood 25 mm thick
3		2	530 × 30
4		2	120 × 30	Plywood 18 mm thick
5	The upper end part of the groove, limiting the movement of the leg.	1	122 × 30	Plywood 18 mm thick
6	Slot element for leg movement on folding table top.	2	530 × 20	Plywood 18 mm thick
7	Slot element for the movement of the leg on the table top of the cabinet.	2	120 × 20	Plywood 18 mm thick
8	The bottom end part of the groove that limits the movement of the leg.	1	122 × 20	Plywood 18 mm thick
9	Side walls of the table unit.	2	720 × 520	MDF 19 mm
10	The horizontal details of the curbstone forming the shelves.	3	520 × 312	MDF 19 mm
11	The lower vertical part of the cabinet's inner partition.	1	418 × 312	MDF 19 mm
12	The upper vertical part of the cabinet's inner partition.	1	312 × 184	MDF 19 mm
13	The middle horizontal part of the curbstone.	1	310 × 250	MDF 19 mm
14	Cabinet door.	1	477 × 346	MDF 19 mm
15	Cabinet shelf.	1	310 × 250	MDF 19 mm
16	The front panel of the cabinet drawer.	1	346 × 209	MDF 19 mm
17	Drawer front panel (located behind the front panel).	1	418 × 312	MDF 19 mm
18	Drawer side panels.	2	341 × 250	MDF 19 mm
19	Drawer back panel.	1	272 × 120	MDF 19 mm
20	Drawer bottom panel.	1	341 × 272	MDF 19 mm
	Drawer handles and cabinet doors.	2	Ø 30 mm	Wood
	Upper leg element.	1	80 × 80 × 18	Plywood 18 mm thick
	Mobile table leg.	1	Ø top 55, bottom 30, height 702	Wood
	Furniture hinges for joining two parts of a worktop.	2	Ø 50 mm	Metal
	Furniture hinges for the door.	2	The size depends on the shape.	Metal
	Bottom end panels covering the gap under the curbstone.	2	20 × 300 × 5	Plywood 5 mm

The figures show a drawing of the table, on which you can rely in the process of manufacturing and assembling elements into a single structure.

The main dimensions of the table (the illustration is clickable - click to enlarge)
Separate nodes of the table - a drawer and a guide channel for the movement of the leg (clickable illustration - click to enlarge)

For the manufacture of all the parts listed in the table, you will need modern electrical tools that can bring the workpieces to professional perfection.

Find out how to do with photos and descriptions in a special article on our portal.

Installation of a folding table-pedestal

It is worth starting the manufacture of a table with the most important and largest part of it - the table top. Since the table is folding, this element will consist of two parts - stationary and "mobile", that is, one that can be folded down if necessary. When folded, this table may well serve as an ordinary compact cabinet.

Illustration	Brief description of the performed operation
	The first step from plywood with a thickness of 25 mm, using a jigsaw or circular saw, it is necessary to cut out blanks for the tabletop, measuring 600 × 600 and 600 × 475 mm.
	Further, on the larger panel, marking is carried out - a semicircle is drawn, since the front of the table should be rounded. In order to achieve the correct shape of a semicircle, you can use a large construction compass, or make it yourself - from a nail, pencil and rope.
	Then, along the marked line, the table top is rounded. This can be done with a jigsaw or circular saw by attaching the appropriate compass attachment to it.
	Further, a cutter of the desired configuration is installed on the milling machine, which will make the edges of the tabletop smooth, if desired, even or rounded.
	The semicircular part of the panel is processed with a milling cutter, leaving the side even, which will dock with the second part of the tabletop. Then its edges are processed in the same way.
	In the next step, the two processed parts of the tabletop are placed on a flat table at a distance of 5 mm from each other. Marking is made for the installation of furniture hinges. They must be placed at a distance of 100-120 mm from the edge of the table top. Furniture hinges can be of different shapes, so they should be laid in the marked place and outlined with a simple pencil. Then, using a router, special curly grooves are arranged in the plywood, the depth of which should be equal to the thickness of the furniture hinges. The hinges are fixed into the finished holes with self-tapping screws.
	After hingeing the two parts of the table top, in the middle of the panels, on their bottom side, a marking is made to fix the parts that will form a closed channel for the movement of the moving table leg. The guides must be fixed at a distance of 30 mm from the joint between the two parts of the table top. For the manufacture of parts, plywood with a thickness of 18 mm is taken. Then, 10 elements are cut out of it and processed with a router: 530 × 30 mm - 2 pcs., 530 × 20 mm - 2 pcs., 120 × 30 mm - 2 pcs., 122 × 30 mm -1 pcs., 120 × 20 mm - 2 pcs., 122 × 20 mm -1 pcs. It is important to remember here that long slats should have 45˚ cuts on both sides, and short elements on both sides, so that when joined, they form a right angle. In addition, the upper long and short parts, fixed over the lower rails of the guides, are cut from the ends, also at an angle of 45˚. These cuts are necessary so that their corners do not interfere with the movement of the leg along the formed channel. Then, parts are glued to the lined section of the rounded, and then to the rectangular part of the table top. First, they are fixed with glue, and then the longest strips with a size of 530 × 20 mm are screwed on with self-tapping screws, then a piece of 122 × 20 mm overlaps the channel. On top of the long and short fixed rails, the second ones are glued, having the same length, but a greater width - they are also additionally screwed on with self-tapping screws. Thus, an even channel is formed between the tabletop and the top rail, along which the leg will move. It is very important to calculate the location of the screwing points of the self-tapping screws so that the upper ones do not stumble upon those that fix the lower rails. In the same way, four parts are fixed on the rectangular part of the tabletop. All elements must be processed to smoothness and ideally evenly fixed to each other, otherwise the leg will run into obstacles and jam when moving.
	The leg is usually made on a lathe. If it is not there, then you can order it from the master or purchase it ready-made. As a last resort, you can make it square by processing the timber of the desired height until smooth. Then, on the upper end part of the leg, using a dowel and glue, a square guide plate made of plywood with dimensions of 80 × 80 × 18 mm is fixed exactly in the center.
	Further, after the glue dries, the leg can be installed in the channel intended for it and tested for its free movement, without jamming. If necessary, you can carry out minor adjustments and improvements.
	The finished tabletop is painted or coated with water-based varnish - if the goal is to preserve the textured pattern of plywood. After that, the finished countertop is laid aside and proceeds to the manufacture of the curbstone.
	The elements of the curbstone do not have complex configurations, therefore, in order to make them, it is enough on the MDF panel or thick plywood to accurately transfer the dimensions of the parts indicated in the table, and carefully cut them out using a jigsaw or saw. After the parts are made, their end parts must be processed to smoothness with a milling cutter, otherwise they will look sloppy.
	If you plan to paste over the visible end parts of the cabinet parts with a special laminated edge band, then this process is carried out using a conventional iron. The tape on its inner side has a layer of glue, which heats up under the influence of heat and ensures reliable fixation of the edge on the surface of the end parts of the MDF panels.
	The next step in the cabinet door panel is to make curly grooves into which the furniture hinges will be installed and fixed. The holes are made in the same way as in the tabletop using a router, but in this case the router can also be installed in a screwdriver, since MDF has a lower density than plywood and is easier to process without chipping the material. The hinges should be positioned at a distance of 100 mm from the edges of the door - before starting drilling, it is imperative to carry out a thorough marking. A similar procedure is carried out with the wall of the cabinet, on which the door will be fixed. Then the door wall is joined together to check the correct installation and to mark holes for self-tapping screws.
	In addition to the hinges, you can immediately screw the prepared handle to the door. To do this, stepping back 50 mm from the edge of the panel and finding a convenient height position, mark a point through which a through hole is drilled to fix the handle.
	All manufactured parts of the curbstone are painted with paint of the selected color using a roller and a brush. The paint will not only make the product aesthetically pleasing, but also protect the material from the negative influence of a specific kitchen humid environment.
	Next, you can proceed to the assembly of the bedside table. Professionals carry out this process using special tools, but they can be easily replaced with improvised devices. For example, you can carry out the assembly on a flat table, and for ease of installation, the pedestal is additionally installed on flat bars. Mutual fastening of parts can be carried out using wooden dowels, metal furniture corners or self-tapping screws - the latter option is the simplest, but also the most unreliable. In addition, after assembly, the caps of the self-tapping screws will have to be masked with various compounds. The build process is as follows: - Place the bottom panel on the supports. - One of the side panels is set on it according to the level and with the help of the building angle, and its location is marked with a pencil. -At the same time, the location of the fastening parts is outlined on the horizontal and vertical panels. - Exactly the same procedure is carried out with the second side and dividing center wall. - Then, holes are drilled at the marked points of the bottom and end faces of the side panels for installing the dowels. - After that, before gluing the parts, the places for installing the shelves are determined on the side walls. Then, in the marked places, brackets-shelf supports are mounted, for which holes are also drilled. - Further, dowels lubricated with glue are installed in the holes drilled in the bottom, side walls are put on their upper, protruding part. - In the same way, non-removable lintel shelves are mounted, simultaneously with the side walls.
	Before continuing to work, you need to make sure that the glue in the assembled structure is well dried. To make the cabinet stiffer, it is laid on its side and squeezed with clamps for the duration of drying.
	While the glue dries, you can start assembling the drawer. Since it will be completely assembled from MDF, the installation of the box can also be carried out using dowels. The sides are attached to the bottom of the box, and a line is drawn along them with a pencil, and then marks are made where the dowels will be installed. Then, the sidewalls are removed, and in the marked places, holes are drilled in their end to install the fasteners. The same is done on the bottom panel. Further, the dowels are coated with glue and carefully inserted into the holes, connecting the sidewalls to the bottom.
	The sidewalls are twisted between themselves using self-tapping screws, the caps of which are recommended to be sunk into the wood, and the holes should be repaired with a mixture of epoxy glue and sawdust. Furniture corners, which are screwed to the sides with self-tapping screws from the inside, can become another mounting option. You will need two corners on each side.
	When assembling a box, it is necessary to control the evenness of its corners with a building corner and a change in diagonals, otherwise a skew may form.
	If you plan to install metal roller guides for easy movement of the box, then for a start, the place of their attachment is determined on the sidewalls of the boxes and on the inner walls of the cabinet. To do this, using a pencil and a ruler, a line is drawn along which the guides will be fixed.
	Next, a front panel is installed to the front of the drawer. It is screwed on from the inside of the box, through pre-marked and drilled holes. It is recommended to use glue in addition to self-tapping screws for fixing the panel: it is applied to the front panel, and then the front panel is pressed against it, and they are pulled together with four or five self-tapping screws. After the glue dries, a hole is drilled in the center of the facade panel through which the handle is screwed.
	Finally, the long-awaited moment comes - the combination of the cabinet and the tabletop. It is recommended to first glue the stationary part of the tabletop to the surface of the cabinet, and then fix it with self-tapping screws, which are screwed in from the inside of the lower cabinets. But, first, the tabletop must be correctly positioned. The part of the channel located on the permanently installed tabletop panel should rest against the side of the cabinet - it will serve as a stopper for the movement of the leg towards the table. The table top should extend beyond the edges of the cabinet on the side of the drawer by 50 mm, open shelves by 30 mm, and from the side of the leg - by 120 mm.
	Having secured the tabletop, proceed to the final installation and screwing the cabinet doors onto the screws. Then the drawer is inserted, and the shelves are installed on the shelf supports.
	When closed, the table is compact, therefore it does not take up much space and looks quite aesthetically pleasing. If desired, for its decoration, you can choose other colors that will better harmonize with the interior of a particular room.
	In the open state, the table also does not take up much space and will fit perfectly into one of the corners of the room. Thanks to its "light" design, it does not weigh down the interior, and the shape of the table top makes it safe for children. Therefore, this version of the table can be considered ideal for small apartments with small kitchens and rooms.

If there is a need to save money, or there is simply a great desire to prove yourself in carpentry, then you should not postpone making it yourself. Moreover, the assembly will become not only an interesting and useful activity, but also a very pleasant one, especially at the moment when the work will be successfully completed.

For those who are confident in their abilities, another interesting version of the round table is offered, which may well serve both at home and on the territory of the site.

Video: example of assembling a round table

And one more idea for a kitchen table, which, if not true, can be realized independently by a skilled owner:

Video: lightweight kitchen table of collapsible design

The variety of shapes given to curved furniture legs can be applied to a variety of modern types of furniture, not just antique pieces. At the same time, for the home craftsman, the most attractive is a simple model of a curly leg of homemade furniture, offered by the French magazine "System D".

The methods for making curved supports described in this article are not a repetition of those commonly used in furniture factories - they are more affordable and great for small teams of furniture shops and individual craftsmen.

Figure 2 shows, by way of example, the three types of legs that are the easiest to make and shape: for a desk, a knick-knack stand, and a multi-purpose padded bench. Next to them are the shadow contours of the bars from which they were obtained. Thanks to the thoughtful cutting method, such curly furniture supports require less effort and material, while the waste is no more than in the manufacture of more complex models.

The use of a band saw or an ordinary bow saw, and even more so a jigsaw, makes it relatively easy to obtain such curves: the curved legs of the simplest shape can be roughly cut and finished by hand, and even faster than on a machine.

Rice. 1. Template for bent table leg (plywood, s10) and its use on the workpiece.

1-high leg for office; 2-middle leg for a stand, bedside tables, 3-small leg for a bench.

Blank

Since some parts of the legs are very thin, you need to use dense and durable wood, such as maple or birch. These two species are also particularly suitable because, with subsequent finishing, they make it possible to successfully imitate walnut or mahogany.

The first step is to prepare a block of sufficient size so that the entire leg of the corresponding profile can be cut out of it. Therefore, it can be "composite" - glued from boards 35 mm thick.

The planes of the boards rallying at the same time must be processed with a jointer and more precisely adjusted. If possible, use hot-curing glue (for example, PVA). Make sure that the clamps clamp the boards evenly along the entire length. Allow the adhesive to cure completely before starting the next operation.

In the case of joining the leg blank, which must withstand significant loads, it is very important to use high quality glue.

To complete the workpiece, a template is used that makes it easier to draw the contour of the leg on its edge. It is necessary to take into account that the contour should be drawn on two adjacent edges of the workpiece, bulges towards each other.

While the glue on the workpiece dries, make a template (for example, the one shown in Figure 1) from a piece of plywood 10 mm thick. First, cut a strip of plywood to the desired length and width. The intended appearance of the leg can also be drawn on it (the main outlines of the three models of legs are shown in the figure with a grid) However, in order to achieve the maximum accuracy of the bend line, the template must first be drawn on a piece of rigid cardboard, then the outline is cut and applied to plywood, from which the template will be cut along the contour (each, of course, is intended for only one piece of furniture).

The curved line on the left of the template is the line for the back of the leg; the line on the right in the same figure is the front face.

Mark the workpiece profile using the template. Carefully check the coincidence of the contours on the edges of the bar (without such a check, the workpiece may be damaged before cutting). The two front sides of the leg are most visible in the finished product, but all four sides of the legs are visible from certain points, especially when viewed along the length of the table.

a - for the legs of heavy furniture, b - for a light table, c - for a stand, d - for a bench.

Sawing

In order to cut a curved profile on a workpiece of a similar thickness, it is better to use a jigsaw.

Scrape off any glue that may have come out of the joints under pressure when gluing the boards into the workpiece, and carefully clean the edges. Strictly adhere to the contour when sawing and do not press on the saw with the workpiece, as this can cause the saw blade to overheat and jam.

After one part has been cut, place the cut piece in the old place and fasten both parts with one or two pins, placing them in such a way that the saw blade cannot touch them during the second sawing of the edge. Re-positioning the cut piece gives a large support plane for subsequent cuts. However, this support cannot be fully relied on - if the end of one part of the workpiece rises slightly while the saw is running, this can cause the blade to jam and become unusable.

After the curves of small radii have been cut, continue the operation slowly enough; haste will lead to a violation of the accuracy of the cut.

Completion of the workpiece

The protruding corners on the legs of the obtained sample are usually preserved, the corners in the upper part of the bend are sometimes rounded off. All irregularities after sawing must be destroyed by sanding with sandpaper or a well-sharpened scraper (scraper). The latter tool is particularly recommended for long curved surfaces; in order to avoid galling of the cutter, it must be adjusted in such a way as to remove the thinnest chips with each movement.

Finally, process all curved profiles on all edges - uncorrected defects will complicate the final finishing.

If the leg is intended for a table, the plane of the end face in its upper part must be aligned at right angles to the vertical edges, and cutouts must be made on it for connections with the support elements of the lid.

Options - any

The leg models shown in the pictures are marked, cut out and finished in the same way, in approximately the same way as described above. On the legs, the outer ledge can be rounded. On top of the curved legs, a support part is attached, in which grooves are cut for assembly with the rest of the furniture. This model is very suitable for a stand for radio equipment or for a banquet near the fireplace. be longer or shorter, have a different shape at the top; this model can be applied in a wide variety of cases.

Rice. 4. Making a small leg (simplified version):

a - sawing a bar; b - the resulting blank of the leg, c - manual revision of the blank of the leg - with a sandpaper on a bar, d - a finished bench with bent legs.

The short leg, shown in Figure 4, is very suitable for a low stool or bench. The sample of a simple leg, which we see in the figure, does not, in fact, belong to the old style, but its silhouette consists of the same curves, which makes it possible to refer this sample to the same category of curved legs. the outline is so simple and so small that it can be drawn by placing a piece of cardboard with an approximate profile on the workpiece.However, such a short leg can sometimes be difficult to cut due to the uneven texture of the wood.

Before sawing the workpiece, you need to make sure that all its edges are at right angles to each other - this is necessary to ensure reliable support when cutting.

The short leg is usually attached with a long screw or installed on plug-in round dowels (dowels), with glue on the adjoining planes.

Tables with folding legs are versatile pieces of furniture. The main plus is that they do not take up too much space during operation and storage. Sometimes it is difficult to find a suitable option: what is offered in the store is either of dubious quality, or the price does not suit. In this case, you can make a folding table with your own hands. How, we will consider in the article.

Table functionality

A folding table made of wood is very durable, in convenience it is not inferior to ordinary furniture. It can be used as a writing, dining, child-friendly or handicraft tool. If you think over the decor, it will successfully fit into the interior of the room. Alternatively, you can make a do-it-yourself table with folding legs, which will take up little space during transportation.

Another plus: it is ideal for small spaces, if necessary, it can always be folded and hidden in the closet, thereby freeing up space in the room. Some models easily fit into the trunk of a car, which is very convenient - you can take it with you while traveling.

And you don't have to buy. It is not at all difficult to make a folding table made of wood with your own hands. The article presents drawings and describes the main stages of work.

This is a simple construction. The most important thing is to prepare all the components and process them with high quality. The dimensions shown in the drawing give an idea of ​​\ u200b \ u200bthe dimensions of the entire structure and individual elements.

Beginning of work

First of all, the size of all parts for making a table with your own hands is calculated. You can choose any scheme and drawing of a folding table - it all depends on your capabilities and preferences. In this case, you will need a tabletop and blanks for the legs. As the main material, you can use not only wood, but also glass, metal, plastic or cork panels. So, you should have a drawing of the table (for example, one as presented later in the article):

As the simplest option, wooden boards fastened together are suitable. A solid top can be used if desired. Often, folding table legs are made of iron, but at home it will be much easier to work with wood. The following is a list of the required elements (the letters are indicated in the diagram).

It is important to correctly calculate the thickness of the legs for the table top so that they can safely support its weight and do not bend. A large dining table will need more supports. And they will be larger in diameter. Additional horizontal beams should also be installed between the top brackets and the table top. Step-by-step procedure for assembling the table:

You can buy wood, boards and other material necessary for work at a hardware store. If you have a workbench, circular saw, or hand saw, you can trim planks for folding table legs with your own hands. Always wear polycarbonate safety goggles and a respirator when operating a saw. If a saw is not available at home, most shops will trim the wood to the required length.

Wood processing

An important stage in the creation of a table is the processing and finishing of the material. Care should be taken to match the tabletop with the legs in style. Folding legs can be made of wood or metal. The tree must be processed before starting work. First of all, roughness is removed from the surface, which can be scratched or injured. The easiest way to do this is with a planer or sandpaper.

Wood coating

Then the tree is covered with a special varnish, which allows you to keep the material in its original form and protect it from moisture and mechanical damage. Alternatively, you can use water-repellent varnishes, they are considered a fairly reliable tool. If you accidentally spill water or other drink, the surface of the countertop will remain intact.

Today the choice of varnishes and paints is very wide: from transparent to dark, matte and the brightest. In addition, the correct varnish will make the table an attractive piece of furniture.

Blueprints

The first step is to prepare a drawing of a folding table. It will be much easier to create furniture with your own hands if you follow the instructions. Do not place your feet too close to the center or edges. Arrange them so that they do not protrude beyond the table when folded. Mark the location of each leg with a pencil on the back of the tabletop. The legs should be symmetrically positioned at the same distance from the edge.

What you need to consider if you are making a folding table with your own hands? On the diagram, the legs do not need to be drawn in detail. The main thing is that the attachment points are indicated. The table supports do not have to be positioned strictly vertically, there are various design options. They can be directed diagonally and intersect at a 90 degree angle, like an ironing board, for example.

Wooden or metal beams as legs can be fastened in pairs. This option is considered more stable than having single supports. In addition, additional fasteners can be directed at an angle of 30 degrees to their upper part, which will be the fixing element.

Mounting on brackets

What is the best way to fix the brackets when making a table with your own hands? The folding legs are best attached using brackets with flat parts that have holes for screws. The main part of the element is a spring bar, which is used to secure the table legs when they are extended.

Measure the top of each leg. When extending, the upper half of the mechanism, attached to the table top, must be flat relative to the upper plane of the support. Mark the screw holes of the bracket on the leg and tabletop with a pencil. First, fasten the bracket part to the leg, then screw it to the plane of the table top. Double check all measurements before drilling the screw holes in the legs or table. Also check that each leg can bend along and perpendicular to the countertop when extended.

Completion of work

Lay the table flat on the floor to line up each leg, using the holes you draw in pencil. First make the holes to secure the brackets to the table. Attach the bracket segment to the leg and then to the bottom of the table. Repeat the same steps for each leg: measurements, alignment, fasteners.

Attach special rubber or fabric attachments to the ends of the folding table legs. With your own hands, this procedure is quite simple to perform. This precaution will help protect your floors from scratches and damage.

Woodworking tools

Each craft uses its own tools. The quality of the finished product depends on the right choice. The most commonly used for making wooden objects and furniture are hammer and nails. Hammers with a claw on the back are very comfortable. It balances the impact and helps to remove an incorrectly driven nail.

Screws are considered a good alternative to nails. They are often used to secure folding table legs. With your own hands, all the work can be done even with a simple screwdriver. For faster work, we recommend using an electric screwdriver.

You will need a good knife and chisel to cut or cut wood. A stationery knife with a disposable blade is used for drawing patterns and trimming unnecessary parts.

The bit is usually beveled on both sides, in some models only beveled on the cutting edge side. In principle, anyone can work, it all depends on your desires. The chisel must be hit carefully with a hammer so as not to damage the structure of the tree. To check if the table is level in the end, you should use the level. It will show how the surface is tilted relative to the horizon.

Table decoration

Decor is definitely an important moment in the process of creating furniture. The easiest way to decorate is painting. A large assortment of paints and varnishes from various manufacturers is on sale. It is important to choose not only the desired shade, which will be harmoniously combined with the interior items, but also the quality. It is better to choose an option that dries quickly and is odorless. For application, you can use a paint brush or roller.

For a more original finish, you can resort to hand painting or unusual coloring. Various stripes, cells and other geometric patterns are created using paper tape or stencils.

Beginners are often afraid to ruin the product with poor-quality staining, because they have never done this before. Alternatively, you can use spray paint. It is enough just to shake it and spray paint over the table surface.

Over time, plain countertops get bored. In this case, something needs to be changed. But you don't have to repaint or buy new furniture. You can try decoupage or choose a new tablecloth.

Further work will take place on a table saw. Raise the saw blade to the “maximum” level. Set the block in such a way that it is convenient to saw off 8 centimeters from its edge. First, saw off a piece on one side only. Repeat the procedure if necessary. Take your time and be extremely careful.

I decided to make the screw holes on the inside of the table. To do this, I had to narrow two legs from the left corner, and two from the right, thus obtaining the left and right pairs of “legs”.

Now is the time to do the final sanding of our legs. To do this, first we clean them with skins. That's all, now you can admire the result of your work!

I got table legs in the style of "a la hardway", which appeared at the very beginning of the twentieth century.

Try and make such table legs, it's easier than it seems. But do not forget to ALWAYS follow all basic safety rules!