Reproduction should begin in the spring or in the hot summer, so that echeveria grows more intensively. But you can also plant the plant in winter.

In winter, the plant takes root better and adapts to temperatures.

How to select and prepare land for planting?

A soil substrate of suitable composition can be obtained by mixing sand with humus or peat in a ratio of 3:1 or 4:1. You can also use regular river sand without any additives.

Ways to propagate at home

Propagation is carried out in several ways: seeds, leaf cuttings, tops and rosettes.

Seeds

Seeds need to be sown at the end of winter in the soil (proportion of sand and peat 1:1). Be sure to cover the container with seeds with film. The required temperature is 20-22 degrees. It is advisable to spray and ventilate regularly. After the seedlings sprout (about 2 weeks), they need to be transferred to pots with a mixture of earth and sand (2:1).

You can learn about the basic rules for propagating echeveria by seeds.

Leaf

Rosettes

Young rosettes appear in the axils of the leaves of the mother plants in the form of buds, which spread like strawberry tendrils.

1. The daughter rosette must be separated from the adult plant and the cut must be treated with crushed charcoal.
2. Dry for half a day.
3. After this, you need to place it in coarse wet sand for rooting.
4. After some time (about a month), it will take root and begin to grow as an independent plant.

Tops

To get as many babies as possible, you need to choose echeveria, which begins to stretch. How to root a plant at the top? You need a sharp object to carefully cut off the top of the plant, and it is advisable that the cut be at an acute angle.

Be sure to leave a few leaves. The top must be planted in sand in order for the succulent to produce roots.

How to place it in open ground?

Planting in open ground is possible, but it is necessary to plant only in well-warmed soil.

The vegetative propagation method is more suitable for planting echeveria.

The place should be lighted, moist and free of weeds. Care must be taken to ensure that other plants do not interfere with the growth of the echeveria.

The distance between the shoots must be selected large enough to avoid further planting. After planting in open ground, it is necessary to water.

Aftercare

You can completely forget about the daily care of a succulent if you provide favorable soil conditions and plant it in a sunny place.

The plant does not need to be watered or fertilized. It is only necessary to carry out weeding and remove dead rosettes.

What to do if the plant does not take root?

Echeveria is an unpretentious plant. With proper care, it very rarely gets sick and is affected by pests.

Due to irregularities in care, gardeners may encounter the following problems:

• Slow growth and leaf shrinkage. The reason is a lack of moisture and nutrients. It is necessary to transplant the succulent into a larger container.
• The rosette of leaves wrinkles. The reason is lack of water. It is necessary to transplant the echeveria to a less hot place.
• The leaves and stems turn black, it is worth reducing the amount of watering and increasing the temperature in the room. It is imperative to remove dead parts.

Echeverias have an unusual appearance and original inflorescences. Therefore, they are widely used for interior decoration. They can be planted either singly or included in compositions of succulents using stone.

Echeveria is perhaps the best option for home growing if the conditions are such that there is little space but plenty of sunlight. Plant several species in one wide flat pot or florarium - and they will create an attractive composition that will decorate a minimalist interior and will not require complex care.

Stone Flower

In the century before last, the book “Flora of Mexico” was published, illustrations for which were made by the artist Anastasio Echcheverria. And among the other flowers, this one stood out - it looked like a stone rose. In modern books on botany it is now named after the artist - echeveria (echeveria).

Echeveria belongs to the genus of succulents of the Crassulaceae family. Its dense leaves are collected in a low rosette from 5 to 30 cm in diameter. In nature, there are about 200 species of this plant; the main difference from each other is the shape of the leaves and their covering.

The leaves in the rosette can be either flat or convex, with a waxy coating or fluff that protects from the sun and frost. In addition, species of echeveria with purple leaf color are quite common.

Since the homeland of the plant is Mexico with its bright sunny days, almost all wild species are short with a short stem. In an apartment without a suitable light regime, echeveria can stretch out and lose its decorative effect.

Very often, Echeveria is confused with a similar related plant, Juvenile, whose homeland is Europe, the Caucasus and Asia. It is also called stone rose. Outwardly, it can indeed be difficult to distinguish them, but juveniles are much more frost-resistant and can be grown outdoors, unlike echeveria, which dies at temperatures below 6 degrees. Also, juveniles, compared to echeveria, have practically no stem.

Types of Echeveria and their main differences

Among the miniature species (up to 10 cm), the following common varieties can be distinguished:

• Echeveria graceful - a light green rosette of leaves and a peduncle of the same color with red-yellow flowers.
• Echeveria Derenberga - blooms with beautiful orange flowers, and its leaves attract attention with their red edging.
• Echeveria bristlecone is a miniature plant whose leaves are covered with white bristles.

Among the high ones, the most common are:

• Echeveria crimson - distinguished by a strong stem, at the top of which there is a rosette of pubescent leaves, blooms with red flowers with yellow edges.
• Echeveria humpback flower - the stem is very strong and can grow up to 65 cm in height.

The most frost-resistant is Echeveria glaucosa.

In addition to these species, nature and man have created other beautiful forms of echeveria.

Photo gallery: Elegant Echeveria and other popular varieties

In adulthood, Echeveria humpback flower grows up to 65 cm in height. Echeveria crimson is distinguished by its large size and two-color leaves Echeveria bristlecone - a cute rosette of leaves with white fluff Echeveria Derenberg leaves have red edges. Echeveria Runyon's leaves have intricately curved leaves. Echeveria graceful is also called elegans Echeveria blue will withstand even light frosts

Home growing conditions - table

Planting after purchase and replanting

When purchasing a plant, choose healthy bushes, with a compact rosette, without signs of elongation or the presence of diseases. Since sellers grow the majority of plants in peat mixtures, it is best to immediately transplant echeveria into loose and light soil for succulents after purchase.

The root system of echeveria is superficial, so there is no need for deep pots - it is better to take a wide flat container. There must be drainage holes and/or a drainage layer of pebbles, broken bricks or expanded clay at the bottom - at least 2 cm.

It is better to use light soil for cacti and succulents, or prepare it yourself from 3 parts turf soil, 1 part sand and 1 part fine expanded clay.

Be sure to disinfect the soil, for example, pour boiling water over it and cool.

Young plants are replanted every spring, using the same soil, and the pot is only 1–2 cm wider.

During transplantation, you can propagate the plant by cutting off the lateral daughter rosettes and mature leaf blades.

Florarium with a mix of echeveria, juveniles or other succulents

A composition of several miniature succulents in a florarium will look very beautiful. You can make it yourself or buy it ready-made. As part of the composition, you can use not only echeveria of different types, but also cacti, Kalanchoe, crassula, and young.

Operating procedure:

1. Disinfect the glass container with alcohol.

   If the container and soil are not disinfected, the plants will be at risk of fungal infections, which develop very quickly in the limited space of the florarium.

2. Place a layer of fine drainage on the bottom (a quarter of the height of the container), then the same layer of soil, compact it a little.
3. Place the plants on the ground. Sprinkle the roots with soil and tamp down gently.
4. Place pre-boiled and cooled decorative pebbles, sand (you can buy colored sand) or pebbles for aquariums on top of the ground.
5. Decorate the composition with figurines or plant decorative elements.
6. Place the florarium in a place with bright light. Water less often than succulents in open pots, avoiding over-wetting the soil.

Care

Light and temperature

The most important factor for growing is sunlight. There should be a lot of it in summer and winter, otherwise echeveria will lose its decorative effect.

The plant is quite undemanding to temperature. In winter, it is advisable to lower the temperature to 15 degrees, but it can withstand lower temperatures, down to 6 degrees Celsius.

In summer, it is advisable to place echeveria on the balcony in direct sunlight - it is not afraid of burns due to a waxy coating or pubescence of the leaves.

It is worth feeding the stone rose once a month in spring and summer, using fertilizers for cacti and succulents according to the instructions. No fertilizing is needed in autumn and winter.

Watering and fertilizing

Although echeveria is a succulent, it must be watered frequently in the summer, preferably using the bottom watering method, through a tray, trying not to get any drops on the leaves. In winter, when the temperature in the room drops and there is a lack of light, watering is reduced to once a month or less.

Echeveria is fed only in spring and summer with liquid complex fertilizer for cacti and succulents.

Dormant period and flowering

Echeveria does not have a clearly defined dormant period; in winter it simply grows more slowly. But if you want to encourage flowering, be sure to give your rock rose a fall/winter rest with cool temperatures and little to no watering. Echeveria blooms mainly in summer, producing one or more peduncles with bell-shaped flowers.

If you do not collect seeds, remove the peduncle after flowering so as not to deplete the flower.

If the stem is stretched or the leaves are wrinkled, we eliminate errors in care

What to do if a flower is affected by diseases or pests

Echeveria is very rarely affected by pests, but in most cases it is a mealybug, which damages the leaf blades and eats up the roots of the plant. Insect colonies look like dirty cotton wool on the leaves. They are removed with alcohol-soaked cotton swabs or washed off with soap suds. In difficult cases, the plant and soil are sprayed with insecticides, for example, Aktara and Fitoverm are suitable.

If you overwater your succulent or there is a fungal infection in the soil, it will begin to wither and rot.. You can save the plant at the initial stage of infection by using Fitosporin or Trichodermin according to the instructions, but, unfortunately, it is usually possible to detect it only when it is no longer possible to help.

Reproduction

The simplest and most reliable method of propagation is to separate the lateral daughter rosettes from the mother bush during spring replanting. They are cut off with a sterilized knife, the sections are sprinkled with activated carbon, dried and planted in the ground the next day.

How to propagate echeveria from leaf or apical cuttings

If for some reason a stone rose does not form “babies”, it is propagated by cuttings: apical and leaf. The scheme of actions in these 2 cases is similar:

1. Cut off an older leaf from the mother bush as close to the trunk as possible, or cut off the top and free it from several lower leaves.

How to germinate seeds

When growing echeveria from purchased seeds, problems usually do not arise either.

1. Plant the seeds in a mixture of sand and peat, deepening them no more than 4–5 mm.
2. Water with a spray bottle and cover the container with film.
3. Place the greenhouse in a warm, bright place with a temperature of 20–25 degrees. Periodically spray the soil with water and ventilate for half an hour every day.
4. After 2 weeks, sprouts usually appear.
5. In the phase of 2–3 true leaves, the seedlings are transplanted into separate pots.

Flowering of echeveria during seed propagation occurs in 3–4 years.

Echeveria is a succulent plant from the Crassulaceae family, which is successfully grown when cared for at home. Echeveria is native to Mexico. Echeveria is popularly called stone rose. Echeveria is also called rejuvenated for its similarity to this plant.

General information

Echeveria is a perennial plant, sometimes there are also species of subshrubs. The leaves are oval in shape with a slightly pointed tip. The leaves are a clustered rosette, reminiscent of a rose. The outside surface of the leaf in some varieties is pubescent, while in others it is smooth and glossy.

The plant has a bluish-gray tint. The foliage sometimes reaches a length of up to 25 cm and a leaf width of about 15 cm. The shoots are even, but miniature, and some species seem to sit on the ground. Canopy species are also grown, but to do this it is necessary to provide appropriate lighting.

Echeveria flower can be seen in summer. The inflorescences are not large, about 3 cm, but in large numbers and resemble bells. The flowers are on a high stalk and resemble an umbrella. The color of the flowers is bright orange or scarlet, and on the inside it is more saturated. Flowering lasts about a month.

Echeveria species and varieties

There are about 150 species in nature, but only a few are grown indoors.

This species has grayish-bluish leaves, and the rosette itself is flat in shape. The shoots of the plant are straight, but with age they become horizontal and creep. The shoots are able to take root on their own in the soil.

In a large individual, the rosette reaches up to 15 cm in diameter, and its young shoots are located on high side shoots. The leaf length reaches up to 5 cm, and the width is 2 cm. The inflorescences have a pink tint, or a bright scarlet tint with a yellow edging on top.

This species grows in one compact rosette reaching almost 30 cm in diameter. The shoots are either short or absent at all. The foliage is oblong and resembles a triangle. The surface of the leaf is smooth and glossy; the leaf is about 9 cm long and 6 cm wide.

The peduncle appears in the center of the rosette and reaches almost 40 cm. The inflorescences have a yellowish-scarlet tint. The leaf has a rich green tint with a scarlet edging along the edge.

Its individuality lies in the fact that a large number of shoots that creep are attached to it. Rosettes are about 6 cm in diameter. The shade of the leaves is whitish or bluish olive with a scarlet border along the top. The leaf is about 4 cm long and 2 cm wide. Flowers in the form of spikelets consists of 5 flowers. Pedicel about 6 cm high.

Due to its grayish-blue hue, the echeveria succulent is called. But the inflorescences of this variety have an orange tint and are attached to the side.

This is a succulent perennial species with an overgrown rosette about 20 cm in diameter. The foliage is about 6 cm in length, and due to its matte coating it has an almost white tint. The inflorescences are large, unlike other varieties, about two centimeters. The flowers have an orange hue, also with some bloom.

This is a bush species. The shoots are very small or absent. The poured almost spherical rosettes present almost a hundred dark olive-colored leaves. The leaves are shaped like a spatula with a sharp end. The leaf length is 9 cm and the width is about 3 cm. Flowering occurs in the summer. The color of the flower is yellowish-orange.

This is a succulent plant with a fleshy rosette up to 15 cm in diameter. The leaves have a slight green tint. Inflorescences are presented in lateral five-membered structures. The color of the flower is scarlet-chocolate or orange and is located on a high stem.

Perennial species with a neat rosette with bluish leaves. Over the years, the plant develops creeping shoots. The color of the flower is yellow-orange. Flowering occurs in mid-summer.

It has elongated dense leaves with a scarlet edging. Star-shaped rosette.

Represents leaves with pointed ends. This species has a varied shade of bluish, scarlet, pink or yellow. The appearance of the flower resembles a lotus.

Or nodular has a shoot of about 20 cm. The leaves have a red edging along the edge. The inflorescences are scarlet brown and bloom in March.

Echeveria care at home

The plant needs bright, diffused lighting and in sufficient quantities, that is, all daylight hours. With sufficient lighting, the plant's leaves become denser, and the edges of the leaves become reddish.

It is preferable to grow echeveria in a south-facing location indoors. If you just bought a plant, then you should gradually accustom it to the sun so that the plant does not get sunburn on the leaves. The plant prefers an air temperature of about 25 degrees in summer, and not lower than 6 degrees in winter.

How to water echeveria

You should not moisten the plant with a spray bottle, as the leaves may begin to rot. Echeveria tolerates dry indoor air well.

In the warm season, the plant is watered as needed, when the soil in the pot dries to the very bottom. Moderate watering is required.

In winter, if the air temperature is low, watering should be reduced to a minimum. But if the air temperature is normal, then you should water constantly as needed. Water for irrigation must be settled. When watering, avoid getting water on the rosette itself with leaves, otherwise rotting will not be avoided.

Soil for echeveria

For the plant, you can purchase ready-made soil for cacti. Or mix mole soil, coarse sand in equal proportions and a little broken stone as drainage to the bottom or expanded clay.

During active development, the plant is fed with cactus fertilizer. But take half the amount indicated on the package so as not to damage the plant. In the cold season, the plant is not fertilized at all.

How to replant echeveria

The plant should be replanted every year. The container for echeveria should be selected wide and not deep. Since the rhizome of the plant is located on the surface. Replanting should be done carefully so as not to damage the leaves of the plant.

Echeveria is transplanted after purchase, after about a few weeks. Before transplanting, the plant must stop watering completely. The plant must be moved to another container with a completely dry lump of soil, and after replanting it must be watered.

Echeveria leaf propagation

This type of propagation is carried out by separating a leaf from the mother plant. Then the leaf needs to be dried to avoid rotting in the soil for about a week.

After this, the outer side of the leaf should be placed on moist soil and the temperature for rooting should be maintained at about 25 degrees. After a small rosette appears, the plants should be planted in separate containers.

Propagation of echeveria by rosettes

More popular breeding method. To do this, the daughter rosette is separated from the adult plant and the cut is treated with crushed charcoal and dried for about half a day.

After this, they are planted in coarse wet sand for rooting. This propagation method is advantageous due to the early appearance of flower stalks.

Echeveria propagation by cuttings

In echeveria, propagation by cuttings is not labor-intensive. To do this, you need to take a leaf cutting and, after the plant has withered, you need to root it in soil or sand.

After about a month, the plant takes root.

Diseases and pests

• Most often the plant damaged by scale insects . For prevention, the plant must be treated with an insecticide.
• The leaves are turning yellow the cause may be stagnation of water in the soil.
• Leaves wither The reason for this is insufficient watering of the plant.
• Echeveria's lower leaves dry out . This happens most often in winter, and after the leaves fall, new babies appear.
• The leaves have dropped and are starting to fall , the cause may be stagnation of moisture during the cold season.
• If the foliage on the plant turns and becomes smaller , the reason is incorrectly selected insecticides.

If you follow all the rules for caring for the plant, you will not have problems with growing it.

Echeveria is a succulent of the Crassulaceae family. The plant has dense, juicy, fleshy leaves that form a rosette. Small bell-shaped flowers are a distinctive feature of the plant; by them you can easily distinguish Echeveria from other similar succulents. Most common in Mexico, often found in California and Texas, and also in some Latin American countries.

Common types of echeveria and photographs of them

There are more than 150 species of echeveria, including both the smallest representatives of the genus and those reaching the size of a shrub about 70 cm in height. Below are the most popular varieties for home breeding.

A bush-like plant with a short or absent stem, on which rosettes of pointed, elongated light green leaves with a reddish tint are formed. In May-June it blooms with yellow-red flowers. Inflorescences 30-40 cm long grow from the center of the rosette.

The shoots of this species are long, creeping, at the tips there is a rosette of light green leaves with a white coating, reddish at the edges. Rosettes are from 3 to 6 cm in diameter. It blooms from mid-spring to late June with red-yellow flowers on small inflorescences growing from the central leaves of the rosette.

The photo shows a graceful Echeveria

A plant with a thick straight stem, fleshy cupped leaves with a small thorn at the tops form a dense rosette up to 15 cm in diameter. The inflorescences are branched, the flowers are bell-shaped, bright pink or red, yellowish at the ends. Blooms in late spring - early summer.

A succulent with a shortened or missing stem. Rosettes are formed by numerous dense, fleshy, pointed leaves, densely covered with light bristles. During the flowering period it produces long inflorescences, numerous, red-yellow flowers.

Low shrubs. Rosettes with a few thick cup-shaped leaves, pointed towards the top and pubescent on the underside. Red-orange dense flowers with fluff appear in March-April.

Herbaceous perennial. The rosettes are large - up to 20 cm in diameter, with large gray-green leaves. It blooms with large orange flowers with a waxy coating. The plant develops very slowly.

Caring for an echeveria plant at home

The plant does not require special attention

The plant is completely unpretentious, and with proper, simple care it rarely gets sick and is quite resistant to pests. Handle the leaves of the plant carefully - they are very fragile.

Lighting and location selection

The succulent loves light very much and easily tolerates direct sunlight. It grows best on south-facing windows. But in the spring it is better to accustom plants to the sun gradually, especially young plants. In the warm season it prefers open air.

Optimum temperature for growing echeveria

The plant tolerates hot, dry months well, but it is better to provide a temperature of 22 to 27 ° C. In winter they are kept in a bright room at a temperature of 8-15°C. Varieties that bloom during the winter months are kept warm.

Air humidity

Spraying is not required for this plant.

Echeveria does not require spraying and prefers dry air. At high humidity, the bluish waxy coating on the leaves disappears, protecting the plant from disease and sunburn. Leaves of non-hairy species are wiped with a damp soft cloth to avoid pest damage.

Watering a flower

In the hot season, water 1-2 times a week, the top soil layer should dry completely. After watering, excess water is drained from the pan. Water carefully; if water gets into the outlet, the plant may begin to rot. By the end of autumn, watering is reduced to once a month; in winter, watering is done 1-2 times per season.

Composition of soil for echeveria

Suitable soil mixture for succulents. They also make a substrate from coarse sand, leaf and turf soil, one to one. Charcoal and broken bricks are added to the mixture.

Fertilizers

When fertilizing echeveria, it is important not to overdo it, otherwise an excess of fertilizers can lead to damage to the roots.

Starting in March, they begin to feed fertilizer for succulents and cacti in a half dose no more than once a month. Excess feeding leads to damage to the root system.

Echeveria plant blooming

Most often, echeveria blooms in May-June for 2-3 weeks. The best conditions for the formation of inflorescences are a temperature of 15-18°C and daylight hours of 12-13 hours for 50-60 days.

Transfer

Young individuals are replanted every spring, adults are not touched unless necessary, only the top layer of soil is replaced. For the shallow root system of the plant, low and wide pots are suitable. There must be a good layer of drainage at the bottom. Before planting, the soil mixture is steamed or calcined to prevent the growth of bacteria.

How can you propagate echeveria?

The succulent has high vitality and is quite easy to grow at home. Echeveria is propagated through seeds, leaf cuttings and rosettes.

How to grow echeveria from seeds

The seeds are sown in a sand-peat mixture (1:1) at the end of winter and covered with film. Keep at a temperature of 20-22°C, regularly sprayed and ventilated. The seedlings emerge in about two weeks; they are transferred to small pots with a mixture of leaf soil and sand (2:1). When the diameter of the rosette reaches 3 cm, the grown plants are transplanted into a suitable sized container with a substrate for adult individuals.

Propagation of indoor Echeveria flower by leaf

Echeveria reproduces by seeds, leaves and rosettes

In succulents, the propagation buds are located at the base of the leaf, so it is important to carefully separate the leaf completely from the mother plant. The echeveria leaf is attached to the stem by so-called “wings”; if one of them is carefully picked off with a knife, the leaf is easily removed with all its parts.
The separated leaf is dried in air for 2-3 weeks to eliminate bacteria and avoid rotting of the new plant. And after this, the leaf cuttings, without burying them, are placed on a damp substrate with the top side facing out. The pot with the leaf is kept in diffused light at 20-25°C.
Within 2-3 weeks the leaf takes root, and after another month a small rosette appears. At this time, the succulent is transplanted into mature soil.

Propagation of Echeveria plant by rosettes

Not all types of echeveria support propagation by leaf cuttings; in this case, a rosette is used. It is carefully separated from the mother plant, the cut site is treated with charcoal, dried for 10-12 hours and planted in damp sand or substrate. The advantage of this method is that a plant grown in this way will produce flowers faster.

Echeveria diseases and pests; Features of treatment and care for indoor flowers during this period

If the echeveria develops slowly and has small leaves, there is either a lack of soil moisture, or it is necessary to replace the pot with a more spacious one.
Due to lack of lighting, the leaves turn pale, the grayish coating disappears and the rosettes stretch out. If there is not enough watering, the rosette shrinks, the leaves of the plant wrinkle, if there is too much water, they soften, rot and are easily separated from the stem. In case of heavy damage, cut off healthy parts of the plant and root them.
The appearance of yellow-brown spots on the leaves indicates a fungal disease. The plant can be affected by spider mites, rootworms and root-knot nematodes. Appropriate medications are used for treatment.

If you decide to propagate this plant yourself, we recommend watching the video, in which you will clearly see all the stages of propagation.