Caring for hippeastrum. When and how to replant hippeastrum? Planting hippeastrum in spring

In the wild, hippeastrums are found in South America, with a number of varieties living in subtropical climates and tropics, others prefer rocky slopes, where growing conditions are very harsh. The first bulbs came to Europe in the second half of the 16th century, and the flowering of hippeastrum made a huge impression in the countries of the Old World, where the fashion for bulbous crops was gaining momentum.

Gradually the plant was studied, Europeans learned how to grow hippeastrum and how to care for the flower. A hundred years later, the first hybrid plants were bred. And if in nature there are several dozen species of these bulbous plants, then the number of varieties already exceeds two thousand. Today, any gardener who has at least once seen the spectacular flowering of hippeastrum will certainly not give up the thought of decorating his own windowsill with a luxurious plant.

Hippeastrum: plant features

Depending on the species and age, the hippeastrum bulb has a diameter of 5 to 10 cm and consists of a short section of the stem and surrounding closed scales.

In the axil of every fourth scale the rudiments are formed:

  • peduncle, reaching a height of 40–80 cm as it grows;
  • future large ones, collected in inflorescences of 2–6 flowers.

The leaves of hippeastrum are located opposite each other, in width, depending on the variety, do not exceed 4–5 cm, and in length reach 50–70 cm. A florist planning to grow hippeastrum should know that the year of this plant is divided into three clearly defined period:

  • flowering;
  • vegetation;
  • peace.

When the long-awaited time of flowering arrives, red, white, pink, striped and spotted flowers sitting on the petioles open at the tops of the hollow peduncles.

Large bulbs can form two or three peduncles, but specimens with less than four leaves or that have not reached a diameter of 6–7 cm are unlikely to bloom this season.

Leaves appear one at a time approximately once a month, and when after flowering the plant goes into dormancy for 2 to 3 months, there are no external signs of bulb development, but it is actively accumulating strength. Arrows with bright flowers appear once a year, but with proper care, as in the photo, hippeastrum at home pleases with flowering twice. The timing and duration of this period depend on the selected variety, care features, in particular, on the room temperature. On average, flowering lasts about three weeks.

However, sometimes gardeners cannot get flower shoots to appear from the plant. How to care for hippeastrum so that in addition to leaves, the bulb regularly forms flower stalks? The reason for the lack of flowers is often incorrectly selected conditions for growing hippeastrum or the properties of the bulb:

  • A bulb that stays for a long time in a shaded place or on northern windows, where there is not enough light all year round, can refuse to bloom.
  • If the pot is too spacious or cramped, the hippeastrum also sometimes does not bloom.
  • The quality of flowering is negatively affected by incorrectly chosen regime, fertilizing and even soil composition.
  • Do not forget about the 2.5–3 month rest period necessary for the bulb, when the hippeastrum must be sent to a cool, dark place.

If there are no visible reasons for the refusal to flower, the bulb is healthy and well-fed, it can be forced to throw out the peduncle by resorting to one of the proven methods:

  1. In mid-summer, cut off all the leaves from the bulbs and stop watering. After a month, watering is resumed and a one-time complex fertilizing is carried out. By the beginning of autumn, buds and flowers appear on the hippeastrum.
  2. A set of buds is also observed 20–25 days after three hours of treatment of the bulb with water heated to 43–45 °C.
  3. For the spring flowering of hippeastrum in August, the plant stops watering and is moved to a dark, cool place until January. 5–6 weeks after watering is resumed, the bulb produces buds.

For high-quality flowering, it is important that during the growing season and dormancy the bulb is able to recover and form a peduncle. If the bulb lacks nutrition, perhaps the moment has come when replanting the hippeastrum is simply necessary. This can be evidenced by the entwining of the roots of the entire earthen coma. Do not forget about feeding the hippeastrum.

Longer recovery during the growing season and dormant period is required for small bulbs, as well as those that have suffered some kind of disease or pest attack.

The dormant period involves removing healthy, well-prepared bulbs to a cool, dark place. Most often, hippeastrum bulbs “fall asleep” from September to January. How to care for a flower so that the hippeastrum blooms in due time? No special care is required at this time, and special conditions are created for the bulbs:

  • The optimal temperature is 12–14 °C.
  • Complete blackout.
  • The air is dry, humidity does not exceed 50–60%.
  • Watering and fertilizing stop completely.

How and when to replant hippeastrum?

Hippeastrums quickly take over the earthen ball in a pot and literally suck all the nutrients from the soil.

Therefore, the plant can be replanted almost every year. When is it more convenient and painless for the plant to replant hippeastrum? The best period for transplanting a bulb is the time:

  • before sending for storage during the rest period;
  • after their “hibernation” comes out;
  • before flowering;
  • after flowering has completed, if we are talking about a recently acquired plant located in a transport pot and substrate.

Before replanting hippeastrum:

  • Dead scales are carefully removed from the bulbs;
  • study the root system, if necessary, cutting off rotten or damaged roots and treating the cut areas with a fungicide.

The soil for hippeastrum should be light, loose, low acidity and high in nutrients and mineral salts.

If you have to buy a ready-made mixture, for growing hippeastrum it is better to choose soil for bulbous crops, and then mix it with vermiculite or sand to make it loose.

When the earth mixture is made independently, use three parts of leaf soil and an additive of one part; if necessary, sand and dolomite flour are mixed into the soil:

  • To grow hippeastrum, a pot is enough, the walls of which are 3 cm away from the bulb. Larger containers are only detrimental to flowering.
  • A drainage layer must be installed at the bottom.
  • And the bulb is planted so that most of it remains above the ground.

In the summer months, the bulbs can be planted in open ground, where the same care for the hippeastrum, in the photo, continues as at home. And before frost, the bulbs are dug up and moved indoors.

Lighting when growing hippeastrums

Hippeastrums are photophilous and feel best in the most illuminated places, even tolerating direct sunlight.

But in the shade the plant blooms poorly, the bulb recovers and grows more slowly. The lack of light can be judged by pale, elongated leaves and peduncles. In the shade, your plant may not produce buds at all. If you want to see beautiful blooming inflorescences on your window, choose windows on the south side of the house.

Air temperature and watering features when growing hippeastrum

To ensure that the plant has flowers for as long as possible, caring for hippeastrum at home involves creating optimal temperature and humidity conditions.

  • Daytime air temperature is 20–22 °C;
  • At night, the air should be slightly cooler, about 18 °C.

Hippeastrums do not like temperature changes; during storage it is important not to let the temperature drop below +5 °C, which can damage the flower buds. But in the garden, the plant can withstand short-term frosts down to –1 °C if it is covered with non-woven material.

The optimal air humidity for this type of bulbous plant is 75–80%.

Watering when growing hippeastrum also has its own specifics. Until the needle rises 10–15 cm, the plant is moistened moderately, making sure that the top layer of soil dries out between waterings.

As the flowers begin to open, the amount of moisture is increased, trying to prevent overwatering that is dangerous for the roots.

Feeding hippeastrum

The first feeding of the hippeastrum is carried out no earlier than 4–6 weeks after the plant “awakens”. Then the flower should receive support in the form of fertilizers every two weeks, and the last feeding is carried out for a month before sending the bulb to rest.

Fertilizing is always combined with watering so that the fertilizer gets into the moist soil.

Potassium is considered the most important element in the nutrition of the hippeastrum. When hippeastrum blooms, it is fertilized with a phosphorus-potassium mixture with a small addition of nitrogen. As leaves appear, the proportion of nitrogen is increased, bringing it to the amount of phosphorus. From May until the end of summer, you can alternate feeding with organic and mineral fertilizers. If you use a complex ready-made composition, it is better to choose a mixture for bulbous plants, where the ratio of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium is 1: 3: 4.5.

How to care for hippeastrum if the plant is grown without soil, in a solution of nutrients? In this case, for 10 liters of water you will need:

  • 3 grams of magnesium sulfate;
  • 9 grams of potash fertilizers;
  • 3 grams of ammonium nitrate;
  • 7 grams of superphosphate,
  • as well as a mixture of microelements.

When growing hippeastrum, you need to remember that an excess of nitrogen can lead to diseases. Such bulbs can rot and tolerate the dormant period less well.

Video about flowering hippeastrum

In the tropics of America, up to 80 species of hippeastrum, the closest relative of amaryllis, grow. For growing at home or in garden floriculture, hybrid hippeastrum is used. This flower has a fairly large bulb, up to 20 cm in diameter, elongated leaves, about 60 cm and up to 7 cm wide. Hippeastrum blooms with large flowers, up to 18-20 cm in diameter, which are collected on a long peduncle measuring 120 cm. Flowers can have different colors: white, pink, yellow, red or a combination. The flower blooms from the end of winter until April.

Despite the fact that the flower loves light, direct sunlight can harm it. It is believed that he is not very critical of room temperature conditions and for him any temperature is optimal, but this is not entirely true. In order for the peduncle to develop normally, the temperature must be at least +20°С. As for the substrate, it does not play any significance during this period, since the flower blooms due to the internal dimensions of the bulb stored over the previous season. This is a very important factor to consider when propagating this flower. In August-September, the growth of leaves ends and their death begins, and in October-January new flower shoots appear. Leaves that have stopped growing and died should be cut off. During this time, the plant should be stored at a temperature of +10°C, in a dry, dark place.

In the midst of winter, which is December-January, the flower moves to a warm place that does not have bright light. After the peduncle grows to 5-10cm, it is installed in a well-lit place.

Hippeastrum can be grown without allowing it to rest. To do this, keep the flower in a well-lit place and constantly water it without over-watering it. In this case, its flowering period may shift to October-November or March-May.

During the period of active growth, this plant requires abundant watering, as soon as the earthen ball begins to dry out. As soon as the plant begins to enter a dormant period, watering is immediately reduced, and after the leaves are shed, it is stopped altogether. To prevent the roots from losing their vitality, you can pour water into the pan once a month. At this moment, the substrate in the pot should be dry so as not to provoke the growth of leaves during the dormant period, as this can harm the peduncle. Watering is gradually resumed after the peduncle grows more than 5 cm in length.

Fertilizer

As soon as the hippeastrum has finished blooming, you can start feeding it so that it gains strength for the next flowering season. During the period of energy gain, large leaves begin to actively grow, which form new flower stalks for the next season. After the flower stops blooming, it is better to take it outside until September. At this time, they enter a period of rest.

If you plan to not allow the flower to rest, then during the growth period it is necessary to carry out regular feeding every 10 days. To do this, you can use complex mineral fertilizers or dilute mullein in water in a ratio of 1:10.

Transfer

After flowering, they are cut off so that the bulb does not lose excess energy, after which the bulbs are transplanted into pots with a diameter slightly larger than the diameter of the bulb (about 6 cm). The substrate is prepared from equal parts of turf soil, leaf soil, sand, peat and humus. Everything is the same as for amaryllis.

This flower reproduces by transplanting children, but as practice shows, propagation is possible by dividing the bulb, which is what many gardeners do. To do this, you need to take a mature and high-quality onion, after which it is cut so that each part contains a piece of the bottom and scales. The cut areas must be sprinkled with charcoal or activated carbon. After this, the chopped slices are planted in the peat mixture. In about 40-50 days, the babies will sprout and be transplanted into pots next spring.

Reproduction is also possible by seeds, but this is a very labor-intensive process that includes forced pollination of the flower. In this case, the young plant will be able to bloom only in the 2-3rd year. At the same time, the maternal characteristics of the plant are unlikely to be preserved, which is not entirely acceptable.

Diseases such as red burn fungus, downy and powdery mildew, and red rot can cause serious harm to this beautiful flower. You can determine what exactly ails a flower by carefully examining its appearance. If the bulb and leaves of the plant are covered with red spots, this means it is a fungal infection. If a white coating is observed, it means powdery mildew, and if traces of rot are visible on the bulb, then this is the same rot.

In addition to diseases, the flower can be attacked by: aphids, spider mites, scale insects, which can be gotten rid of by treating the plant with insecticides.

Very often, a flower does not bloom precisely because it is affected by either pests or diseases. Article found on rastenievod.com

- an indoor plant distinguished by an interesting large flower, similar to a trumpet lily. It is a bulbous flower, and it blooms no more than 1-2 times a year, and then under good conditions.

But in order for the pet to develop normally, bloom beautifully and grow in volume, it is recommended to arrange full periods of rest, as well as provide appropriate care for the indoor plant. Therefore, you should understand the intricacies of growing this shrub.

Hippeastrum comes from the Amaryllis family. In living nature, the number of different plant species exceeds more than 90 types. The exotic name of the pet is translated from ancient Greek as “horseman” and “star”.

The flower is often identified with amaryllis. But the whole difference between the representatives of the family is that the beautiful amaryllis, first of all, is the only specimen in its genus, and its homeland is the southern side of Africa. While Hippeastrum has a large number of different species, as well as its location is recorded in the tropical and subtropical forests of America.

The following features of the exotic are distinguished:

  • The most beautiful exotic flowers are located on a high massive arrow. Because of its bright color and durability, the plant is called royal.
  • Hippeastrum is a bulbous plant, so it can live for decades.
  • The foliage of a green pet begins to grow only at the moment when the arrow extends and the inflorescences bloom.
  • The external structure of the plant is such that they have the appearance of a tongue and have an original rich dark green color. The upper side of the plant is glossy, but has a fairly dense structure.
  • The leaf plate can extend up to 50 cm in length.
  • The inflorescences of Hippeastrum are large, large, reaching 25 cm in diameter. Externally they are distinguished by the shape of a funnel.
  • When flowering, they do not release aroma into the air.
  • If the exotic has grown, then from one large bulb you get 2 powerful arrows, 3-4 flowers on each.

Flowers can vary in color from red and pink to white. Some species have interesting color schemes - one flower is a bright red hue, the other is a calmer pink. Other inflorescences are distinguished by a striped tone. Flowering in most cases occurs either in spring or in the spring.

The formation of buds begins in early February. The flowering period continues until mid-March or even until the end of March. But if the plant is kept in comfortable conditions, its inflorescences can survive until the end of May.

It is recommended to count the flowering period annually. 3 months before the expected date, the flower is transferred from the room in which it was located during the dormant period to warmer conditions. During the growing season, exotic plants require a large amount of sunlight, so they should be placed on south-eastern or south-western window sills.

Watering should be done as needed.

If the room is dry enough, then irrigation should be carried out frequently; if it is cool, then excessive watering is contraindicated. It is important to add nutritious moisture at the moment when the flower arrow develops and the leaf plates stretch.

In order for the inflorescence to bloom actively and beautifully, before planting in a new flowerpot, the tuber should be kept for 3 hours in hot water at a temperature of 40 C. Thus, before flowering, you should not make any special efforts. Be sure to introduce constant watering and provide the plant with favorable conditions for normal growth and development.

Young hippeastrums require annual planting. The event is carried out either before the start of flowering, in February-March, or after the flower has completely faded and is preparing to go into a dormant period. This moment comes at the end of November. For plants older than 5 years of age, this procedure can be carried out once every 2 years.

How to replant a flower correctly:

  • It is recommended to start transplanting by preparing the container. To do this, you should take a pot that is 10 cm larger than the volume of the bulb. If the pot is much smaller, the plant will not be able to grow normally and produce the desired arrow.
  • Soil can be purchased in specialized stores. A regular soil substrate for indoor plants will do. The advantages of such soil are that a sufficient amount of mineral additives and nutrients are added to the ground in advance. But before planting, the acidity of the soil should be determined. In highly acidic soil, hippeastrum will not bloom and may even die.
  • You can also prepare the soil substrate yourself. To do this, combine turf soil, broken dry peat, river sand and humus. All components are taken in equal parts.
  • The soil you prepare yourself should first be calcined in the oven, and also spilled with a weak solution of potassium permanganate. This will neutralize all pathogenic bacteria and microorganisms that populate this soil.
  • Drainage is placed at the bottom of the prepared flowerpot. For which you can use sea pebbles, broken bricks, expanded clay or medium-sized crushed stone. The container is filled to the middle with soil mixture. A tuber is placed on top. It should be covered with soil so that the soil covers 2/3 of it. The remaining part should look out onto the street. With this appearance it is easier to control the condition of the flower.

After planting, the plant is watered, which should be applied in moderation so that the nutrient moisture does not stagnate in the soil. Otherwise, you can provoke a fungal disease of the tuber.

A distinctive feature of the hippeastrum is its clear delineation of life phases. It has moments of growth, flowering and rest. The dormant period occurs at the moment when the plant does not send out arrows and is not preparing for flowering. The onset of the moment of going to rest can be regulated, due to the fact that this moment depends on the forcing of a flower of a late or early nature.

The most optimal rest time for a bulbous plant is the first days of November until the end of January.

At this moment, it is time for internal restoration after flowering. All life processes slow down, the plant rests. This condition can last from 1 to 3 months. At this moment, it is recommended to recreate optimal conditions for a comfortable stay. Only in a favorable climate is further optimal development of the hippeastrum possible.

The exotic must be placed in a warm, darkened room where optimal humidity will be maintained. In this case, the temperature in the room should not exceed +13..+15 C. During the dormant period, the plant should also be looked after. The following rules for caring for hippeastrum during the dormant period are distinguished:

  1. Place in a dark place.
  2. Dig it up.
  3. Carefully place the tubers in a wooden box.
  4. Make sure that the plant is not exposed to freezing.

After keeping the plant in this state for 1-3 months, the plant should be returned to its normal state. It is transferred to a warm room, to a sunny place. Within 1.5-2 weeks a young leaf will appear. Only after the appearance of a tender leaf blade is it recommended to resume standard care. It is definitely recommended to place the pot in a sunny place so that the leaf plates do not stretch.

The shrub needs a period of rest in order to renew its own strength and absorb new nutrients from the soil. After this period, the plant is again ready to delight with riotous flowering. Thus, by maintaining exotic plants in certain conditions, in the spring you can get a gorgeous bush with flowering dense funnels of a bright shade. The main thing is to completely recreate the optimal conditions for the bush to rest.

After the bush has flowered, it is recommended to carry out a number of necessary actions. First of all, it is necessary to give the plant the opportunity to gain strength for further growth. After all, only appropriate care will allow you to re-release a powerful arrow with peduncles in the future.

After all the buds have withered, the arrow is cut off, but not completely at the root.

It is necessary to leave about 15 cm of the base of the arrow above the bulb. Due to the remaining stem, the exotic draws into the tuber all the useful substances concentrated in the stem. It is necessary to remove the arrow only after the tuber has completely taken all the nutrients from it and it has dried out. Only after this is the arrow carefully unscrewed from the base, so as not to damage the main plant.

After flowering, the plant's foliage may continue to grow. She produces this slowly - 1 sheet per month. To prevent the plant from drying out, it must be watered moderately periodically. In addition, before the plant retires, liquid fertilizers should be applied. Fertilizers must contain potassium and phosphorus. For good growth, the bulb should be fertilized at least 2 times a month.

The fact that the plant is preparing for a period of dormancy will be indicated by the acquisition of yellow foliage. During this period, it is very important to properly prepare the exotic for retirement:

  • Yellowed leaf blades are cut off.
  • The introduction of nutrient fluid is gradually stopped. Watering is carried out once every 21 days.
  • The pot with the tuber is placed in a cool place with dim light.
  • To prevent the tuber from producing young leaves, it is recommended to pull it out of the ground, placing it in a dry room, or wrap it in paper and place it in the bottom drawer of the refrigerator.

Correctly carried out care after flowering and before preparing for dormancy will allow the plant not only to be saturated with useful substances, but also to thoroughly prepare for the next growing season.

When growing hippeastrum, every gardener strives to ensure that the plant not only produces new foliage, but also blooms beautifully. A long absence of flowering may be the result of improper care of the shrub.

The following reasons and their solutions are identified due to which exotic plants stop blooming:

  1. Transplanting a young plant - if propagation is carried out using tubers, then a one-year-old tuber will not shoot. The first release of buds is possible if the tuber is more than 7 cm and the plant is older than 2 years.
  2. Lack of feeding - after flowering it is definitely recommended to feed. A long-term lack of nutrients leads to suppression of the bush and lack of budding.
  3. Depleted soil - if the shrub is not transplanted from its native place for a long time, it completely sucks out from the soil all the nutrients necessary for growth. It is recommended to replant once every 1-2 years.
  4. Insufficient light - the plant is placed on northern windowsills. Be sure to move the pot to the south side, where the bush will have enough sunlight.
  5. The rest regime is violated - incorrect preparation of the exot for retirement and failure to comply with the proper conditions during this period.

Thanks to proper care, the hippeastrum will strengthen and grow in width. Every year he will be able to give birth to more children and release a significantly larger number of arrows. The main thing is to properly care for the shrub not only during the flowering period, but also before budding and after flowering.

Thus, hippeastrum is an unpretentious flower that does not require additional care. The most important points in its maintenance are infrequent moderate watering and control over the condition of the plant. In addition, to saturate the exotic with nutrients, replanting and fertilizing should be carried out.

More information can be found in the video:

In the wild, hippeastrums are found in South America, with a number of varieties living in subtropical climates and tropics, others prefer rocky slopes, where growing conditions are very harsh. The first bulbs came to Europe in the second half of the 16th century, and the flowering of hippeastrum made a huge impression in the countries of the Old World, where the fashion for bulbous crops was gaining momentum.

Gradually the plant was studied, Europeans learned how to grow hippeastrum and how to care for the flower. A hundred years later, the first hybrid plants were bred. And if in nature there are several dozen species of these bulbous plants, then the number of varieties already exceeds two thousand. Today, any gardener who has at least once seen the spectacular flowering of hippeastrum will certainly not give up the thought of decorating his own windowsill with a luxurious plant.

Depending on the species and age, the hippeastrum bulb has a diameter of 5 to 10 cm and consists of a short section of the stem and surrounding closed scales.

In the axil of every fourth scale the rudiments are formed:

  • peduncle, reaching a height of 40–80 cm as it grows;
  • future large ones, collected in inflorescences of 2–6 flowers.
  • The leaves of hippeastrum are located opposite each other, in width, depending on the variety, do not exceed 4–5 cm, and in length reach 50–70 cm. A florist planning to grow hippeastrum should know that the year of this plant is divided into three clearly defined period:

    When the long-awaited time of flowering arrives, red, white, pink, striped and spotted flowers sitting on the petioles open at the tops of the hollow peduncles.

    Large bulbs can form two or three peduncles, but specimens with less than four leaves or that have not reached a diameter of 6–7 cm are unlikely to bloom this season.

    Leaves appear one at a time approximately once a month, and when after flowering the plant goes into dormancy for 2 to 3 months, there are no external signs of bulb development, but it is actively accumulating strength. Arrows with bright flowers appear once a year, but with proper care, as in the photo, hippeastrum at home pleases with flowering twice. The timing and duration of this period depend on the selected variety, care features, in particular, on the room temperature. On average, flowering lasts about three weeks.

    However, sometimes gardeners cannot get flower shoots to appear from the plant. How to care for hippeastrum so that in addition to leaves, the bulb regularly forms flower stalks? The reason for the lack of flowers is often incorrectly selected conditions for growing hippeastrum or the properties of the bulb:

  • A bulb that stays for a long time in a shaded place or on northern windows, where there is not enough light all year round, can refuse to bloom.
  • If the pot is too spacious or cramped, the hippeastrum also sometimes does not bloom.
  • The quality of flowering is negatively affected by incorrectly selected watering regimes, fertilizing and even soil composition.
  • Do not forget about the 2.5–3 month rest period necessary for the bulb, when the hippeastrum must be sent to a cool, dark place.
  • If there are no visible reasons for the refusal to flower, the bulb is healthy and well-fed, it can be forced to throw out the peduncle by resorting to one of the proven methods:

    • Dead scales are carefully removed from the bulbs;
    • study the root system, if necessary, cutting off rotten or damaged roots and treating the cut areas with a fungicide.
    • The soil for hippeastrum should be light, loose, low acidity and high in nutrients and mineral salts.

      If you have to buy a ready-made mixture, for growing hippeastrum it is better to choose soil for bulbous crops, and then mix it with vermiculite or sand to make it loose.

      When the earth mixture is made independently, use three parts of leaf soil and an additive of one part of humus; if necessary, sand and dolomite flour are mixed into the soil:

      • To grow hippeastrum, a pot is enough, the walls of which are 3 cm away from the bulb. Larger containers are only detrimental to flowering.
      • A drainage layer must be installed at the bottom.
      • And the bulb is planted so that most of it remains above the ground.
      • In the summer months, the bulbs can be planted in open ground, where the same care for the hippeastrum, in the photo, continues as at home. And before frost, the bulbs are dug up and moved indoors.

        Lighting when growing hippeastrums

        Hippeastrums are photophilous and feel best in the most illuminated places, even tolerating direct sunlight.

        But in the shade the plant blooms poorly, the bulb recovers and grows more slowly. The lack of light can be judged by pale, elongated leaves and peduncles. In the shade, your plant may not produce buds at all. If you want to see beautiful blooming inflorescences on your window, choose windows on the south side of the house.

        Air temperature and watering features when growing hippeastrum

        To ensure that the plant has flowers for as long as possible, caring for hippeastrum at home involves creating optimal temperature and humidity conditions.

      • Daytime air temperature is 20–22 °C;
      • At night, the air should be slightly cooler, about 18 °C.
      • Hippeastrums do not like temperature changes; during storage it is important not to let the temperature drop below +5 °C, which can damage the flower buds. But in the garden, the plant can withstand short-term frosts down to –1 °C if it is covered with non-woven material.

        The optimal air humidity for this type of bulbous plant is 75–80%.

        Watering when growing hippeastrum also has its own specifics. Until the needle rises 10–15 cm, the plant is moistened moderately, making sure that the top layer of soil dries out between waterings.

        As the flowers begin to open, the amount of moisture is increased, trying to prevent overwatering that is dangerous for the roots.

        Feeding hippeastrum

        The first feeding of the hippeastrum is carried out no earlier than 4–6 weeks after the plant “awakens”. Then the flower should receive support in the form of fertilizers every two weeks, and the last feeding is carried out for a month before sending the bulb to rest.

        Fertilizing is always combined with watering so that the fertilizer gets into the moist soil.

        Potassium is considered the most important element in the nutrition of the hippeastrum. When hippeastrum blooms, it is fertilized with a phosphorus-potassium mixture with a small addition of nitrogen. As leaves appear, the proportion of nitrogen is increased, bringing it to the amount of phosphorus. From May until the end of summer, you can alternate feeding with organic and mineral fertilizers. If you use a complex ready-made composition, it is better to choose a mixture for bulbous plants, where the ratio of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium is 1: 3: 4.5.

        How to care for hippeastrum if the plant is grown without soil, in a solution of nutrients? In this case, for 10 liters of water you will need:

      • 3 grams of magnesium sulfate;
      • 9 grams of potash fertilizers;
      • 3 grams of ammonium nitrate;
      • 7 grams of superphosphate,
      • as well as a mixture of microelements.
      • When growing hippeastrum, you need to remember that an excess of nitrogen can lead to diseases. Such bulbs can rot and tolerate the dormant period less well.

        Video about flowering hippeastrum

        When and how to replant hippeastrum?

        Hippeastrums are bulbous plants. They bloom very beautifully - on a long arrow there are 4-5 large flowers, similar to lilies. They are quite unpretentious, and even amateurs without experience can grow a flower. One of the conditions for caring for hippeastrum is its regular replanting.

        When to replant hippeastrum

        It is recommended to replant adult hippeastrums every two years, and young plants are replanted annually. The best time for this is spring. It is best to replant the plant after it has flowered, after 3-4 weeks. If the root system is healthy, there is no need to trim it; it is enough to remove dry and diseased roots.

        Choosing a pot for transplanting

        For replanting, you should choose a pot that is only a few centimeters larger than the previous one. In too large a container, the hippeastrum will not bloom, but will direct all its strength to reproduction - the formation of children.

        The distance between the walls of the pot and the bulb should be no more than 2 centimeters.

        The plant has a fairly developed root system, so it is better to choose a pot that is not too high, but wide at the bottom. It is better if it is ceramic - this will allow the roots to breathe. In addition, such a pot will not tip over under the weight of large long leaves. You can also use a long container for group planting. The bulbs are placed at a distance of 10 cm.

        Soil preparation

        Hippeastrums grow well in nutritious, loose soil. At home, such a substrate can be made by mixing the following components in equal parts:

        Be sure to place a drainage layer (expanded clay) on the bottom of the pot.

        Preparing the hippeastrum bulb for transplantation

        After removing it from the old pot, remove all dry and black scales from the bulb, peeling it down to the white elastic tissue. This helps to activate further flower growth and will help get rid of putrefactive bacteria hiding between the scales.
        Place the peeled onions in a pink potassium permanganate solution for 30 minutes and then dry thoroughly.
        Often there are small children on the hippeastrum. To speed up flowering, they are removed so as not to take away the strength from the mother bulb. If further propagation of the plant is planned, the bulbs are left. Already formed young bulbs should be separated and transplanted into a separate pot, where they will bloom in the third year.

        The children remaining on the bulb during transplantation can delay the next flowering of the hippeastrum.

        Hippeastrum transplantation

        When transplanting, the bulb must be placed in the soil so that it protrudes 1/3 above the surface. Experienced flower growers claim that this will bring flowering closer. Compact the soil around the bulb and water it.
        At the bottom of the pot, right on the drainage, you can put complex fertilizer in the form of a stick (1 piece). Place the pot with the transplanted plant on a well-lit windowsill in a warm room.

        Hippeastrum transplantation - video

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        Transplantation / planting / hippeastrum. Reproduction.

        Transplantation / planting / hippeastrum.

        Hippeastrum needs to be replanted every year. It is better to do this at the beginning or end of its dormant period, possibly after flowering. From the garden, hippeastrum is transplanted into a pot in the fall. In this case, the grown bulb often needs to change the pot to a larger one. Transplantation, as well as planting a new hippeastrum bulb, is carried out according to the same rules. When transplanting/planting/ hippeastrums, the bulbs are inspected. If necessary, they are treated in potassium permanganate, the wounds are covered with brilliant green, and sprinkled with crushed coal. Severely affected bulbs are thrown away. Dead hippeastrum roots are removed. Very long roots of large bulbs are trimmed with pruning shears and the cut area is sprinkled with charcoal. The children formed on the bulb are separated for further reproduction. The soil mixture for hippeastrum is prepared from peat, sand, leaf and turf soil, taken in equal parts. You can use purchased soil for bulbous or indoor plants. Before planting, the bulb is kept in a pink solution of potassium permanganate for half an hour. When planting in a pot, it is buried half or 2/3 of the height. The bulb for forcing for faster flowering is buried only 1/3. The pot for hippeastrum is chosen to be narrow. Its diameter should exceed the diameter of the bulb by no more than 6 cm. Otherwise, the hippeastrum may not bloom. The height of the pot must be no less than its diameter. The higher the hippeastrum pot is, the more space there will be for its roots. Therefore, tall pots for hippeastrum are preferable. A small drainage made of expanded clay, pebbles, etc. is placed at the bottom of the pot. Place a small mound of soil mixture in the center of the pot. They put an onion on it. The roots of the hippeastrum bulb are carefully spread in the pot and sprinkled with soil on top. The pot is placed in a tray. In order for the substrate to settle, it is watered with warm water, without getting on the bulb. Until the flower shoot appears on the bulb, the hippeastrum is no longer watered. The pot with the planted bulb is stored according to the period of development of the hippeastrum. During the dormant period, the pot is placed in a cool, dark room. In case of expected flowering - in a warm, bright place. When replanting hippeastrum with leaves in autumn, watering and maintenance are regulated according to the period of hippeastrum growing. To create a lushly blooming winter composition of hippeastrum, some gardeners plant several hippeastrum bulbs of the same or combined varieties in one wide pot. In this case, the same feeding area is calculated for one bulb as in conventional cultivation.

        Hippeastrum can be propagated vegetatively and by seeds. During seed propagation, the varietal characteristics of hippeastrum are lost. Although vegetative defrosting by scales and dividing the bulb retain these characteristics, they are in little demand in practice, due to the fact that the propagation process is somewhat lengthy, and any variety of hippeastrum can now be bought inexpensively in stores. The best material for vegetative propagation of hippeastrum, which preserves all the characteristics of the variety, remains the daughter bulbs. They can be noticed when transplanting hippeastrum. Then they are separated from the mother bulb along with the roots and, if any, leaves. Onions without roots should first be grown in sphagnum, perlite or sand. Daughter bulbs are grown according to the same rules as adult bulbs. Only during the first 2 years they are not allowed a period of rest. With proper care for 3-4 years, young hippeastrums bloom.

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        Beauty in the home: when and how to replant hippeastrum

        To achieve beautiful and abundant flowering, you need to know when to replant the hippeastrum. Very often, the reason for the lack of buds lies precisely in improper care, when the plant is simply forgotten about. It happens that a flower remains in the same soil for many years.

        A lack of nutrients leads to a painful condition - the flower simply has nowhere to get the necessary components for normal development. The hippeastrum begins to wither, shed its leaves and lose turgor, and may even die if it is not replanted in time.

        Hippeastrum: plant features

        Hippeastrum came to us from South America, where it can often be found in the wild. It thrives in tropical and subtropical climates. The plant can also be found on mountain slopes, where there are practically no other representatives of the flora.

        For the first time in Europe, hippeastrum was seen in the second half of the 16th century, when the fashion for a wide variety of bulbous plants was gaining momentum. Then he made an indelible impression in many countries - botany lovers appreciated the beautiful flowers of a wide variety of shades.

        Within 100 years, active hybridization of hippeastrum began, as a result of which the world saw its new varieties. Today there are 90 species and more than 600 hybrids of hippeastrum in the world. And with all this, the plant bulbs remain similar regardless of the variety: 5-10 cm in diameter, surrounded by closed scales, they throw out a short section of the stem.

        As for the leaves, they are always located opposite each other, and the width of each as a whole does not exceed 5 cm. The length can also vary depending on the variety - from 50 to 70 cm.

        The dormant state for the plant lasts for 2-3 months - during this time it does not show signs of bulb development. Then the hippeastrum begins to grow leaves, approximately one every 4 weeks, and throws out an arrow with buds. Their number and duration of flowering varies depending on the type of flower.

        On average, you can enjoy the beauty of a plant for about 3 weeks. At the same time, in indoor specimens growing at home, frond formation can occur not once, but 2 times a year.

        Ideal time to transplant

        To know how to properly transplant hippeastrum, you need to familiarize yourself with the main life stages of the bulb. Since the flower goes into a dormant state, it is best to change the substrate during the following periods:

      • Before the period of “hibernation” of the bulb;
      • After the plants have emerged from dormancy and begin to show signs of development;
      • When the hippeastrum has not yet thrown out an arrow with buds;
      • When the plant has bloomed and the arrow has already been cut off.

      Also, recently purchased plants that are in a transport pot and stale soil require replanting. In order for them to actively grow in new conditions, it is necessary to first change the substrate, which will contribute to more successful acclimatization.

      As for adult hippeastrums, they need to be replanted approximately once every 2 years. If the plant is young, then it needs annual transshipment to promote good root growth. For all plants, regardless of age, the top layer of soil is changed once a year.

      It is optimal to carry out work in the spring, and there is no need to prune a healthy root system. It is enough to simply remove dry shoots.

      How to transplant hippeastrum correctly

      Even a novice gardener can cope with transplanting hippeastrum - this plant is quite unpretentious and will successfully withstand all manipulations. The only nuances that should be taken into account are the selection of the pot and soil mixture.

      Choosing a pot

      The preferred pot is ceramic. You can choose a container from a different material, but it must be stable.

      The diameter of the pot should not be too large - it is optimal if it is only 5-6 cm larger than the size of the bulb. However, the container should be high so that the roots of the flower can develop normally.

      If the pot is chosen correctly (not too wide for the bulb), the hippeastrum will begin to bloom actively. Otherwise, he will direct all his energy to reproduction and will begin to actively produce children, but you are unlikely to see arrows with buds.

      Soil composition

      In order for a plant to develop normally, it needs to be provided with a sufficient amount of nutrients in the substrate. The soil should be constantly moderately moist, since hippeastrum reacts negatively to stagnant water. Loose, air-permeable soil with an acidity level of about 6.0 is welcome.

      For replanting, you can purchase a ready-made mixture for flowering indoor plants or prepare it yourself from several components:

    • 1 liter of turf soil;
    • 0.5 l of leaf soil;
    • 0.5 l of humus;
    • 0.5 liters of sand and peat.
    • It is imperative to place a drainage layer on the bottom of the pot - expanded clay or brick crushed into small pieces is suitable for this. It will prevent water from accumulating at the bottom of the container, preventing excessive moisture and subsequent rotting of the plant bulb.

      How to replant (step by step instructions)

      You can correctly transplant hippeastrum according to the following instructions:

    • The plant is removed from the old pot, the bulb is freed from the ground.
    • The roots are carefully examined. All dry, diseased and damaged items are removed.
    • It is recommended to sprinkle the places where the roots are cut with crushed charcoal or activated carbon to prevent the development of diseases.
    • All dried outer scales on the dark brown and black bulb must be removed to light tissue, thereby starting the growth process and preventing infection with rot.
    • If there are children on the bulb, they can be left for reproduction or removed, thereby stimulating active flowering. Here it is worth considering that children left on the plant can lead to a long absence of shoots with buds.
    • A slightly moistened soil mixture is poured into a prepared pot with drainage at the bottom.
    • The bulb is buried half or a third into the soil, then the soil around it must be compacted.
    • After the transplant is completed, the hippeastrum should be watered with settled water at room temperature and placed on a bright, warm windowsill, where there is no direct sunlight.
    • Care after transplant

      After the hippeastrum is transplanted, it needs proper watering and other important stages of care. In order for the flower to receive the required amount of moisture, it is recommended to combine top watering with bottom watering (into a tray), while making sure that water does not get on the bulb itself to avoid rotting. When dust appears on the leaves, they need to be wiped or washed under running warm water.

      When the flower shoots out an arrow with buds and it reaches a height of approximately 12-15 cm, the hippeastrum should be shed with a weak solution of light pink potassium permanganate. A week after watering, it is recommended to add fertilizer to the soil for flowering indoor plants with a high phosphorus content, which stimulates flowering.

      Hippeastrum: planting and care

      Hippeastrum is one of the most common indoor plants. Hippeastrum is often called amaryllis, but there is a difference between these plants: hippeastrums bloom from late winter to early summer, and amaryllis - in autumn. In addition, hippeastrums have a larger flower arrow.

      What is hippeastrum?

      The plant has a fleshy bulb and dark green broad-line leaves. Hippeastrum flowers, two or four, are collected in an umbrella. They are brightly colored, with pointed petals, and develop on a leafless, hollow peduncle.

      The plant is hardy and light-loving.

      How to plant hippeastrum bulbs correctly?

      Hippeastrum bulbs are sold in all flower shops - all you have to do is plant the plant correctly and provide it with proper care.

      Hippeastrums are replanted once every three years, only the top layer of soil is changed annually.

      Hippeastrum bulbs need to be placed separately on a layer of drainage in small pots - the distance between the wall and the bulb was 3-4 cm. Then, to a depth of about 2/3 of the bulb, you need to fill it with ordinary flower soil so that the upper edge with the head protrudes above the ground.

      The pot with hippeastrum should be placed in a warm, bright place (on the windowsill above the radiator). And after flowering, you can move it to a sunny and warm place in the room or keep the plant outdoors from late May to late autumn.

      During the dormant period from October to December, the hippeastrum is best left in a dark place at a temperature of 12-15 “C.

      How to water hippeastrum?

      After planting the bulbs in winter, the substrate should be kept slightly moist, and when the flower shoot begins to grow, increase watering. For watering, you only need to take warm water; in addition, until the bud opens, the plant must be sprayed frequently.

      From mid-August, in order to prepare for the dormant period, watering of the hippeastrum should be gradually reduced and completely stopped from October.

      About once a month, pour water into the pan to prevent the roots from dying. The soil in pots containing resting bulbs should feel dry, not wet. Start moderate watering after transplanting into another pot in mid or late December.

      How to fertilize hippeastrum?

      During the growing season, hipperastrum should be fertilized weekly with flower fertilizer, and fertilizing should be stopped after the leaves wither and during the dormant period.

      Why doesn't hippeastrum bloom?

      First of all, check whether you are caring for the plant correctly.

      In December - February, pots with bulbs are placed in a warm place with a temperature of 22-25 ° C (for example, near a central heating radiator) and not watered until the flower arrow appears, then the pots are transferred to a bright window and warm water is poured into a tray so that the soil dries out well soaked in it. If the water has cooled down and the top layer of soil in the pot is still dry, replace the cooled water with warm water several times. At this time, the hippeastrum is watered very sparingly until the flower shoot reaches 8-10 cm in height, since otherwise the leaves will grow and the flowers will not develop. After this, watering is gradually increased.

      A month after flowering, the hippeastrum is transplanted into a fresh earth mixture made up of leaf, humus and turf soil with an admixture of washed coarse sand (1: 2: 1: 1), or into ready-made soil for begonias.

      You can grow hippeastrum without a dormant period. In this case, they are kept all year round in a sunny window in a warm room and watered with warm water as the soil dries out. With this care, they bloom twice a year: in October - November and between March and May, the leaves remain healthy and do not lose their decorative effect.

      The flowering period of hippeastrum can be extended if the bulbs are gradually replanted from the beginning of March and encouraged to germinate. Trim each wilted flower at the base.

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      Hippeastrum care at home

      Hippeastrum is one of the most beautiful bulbous plants intended for growing indoors. It is best to plant it in the soil in late September early October, when outdoor bulbous plants are planted in the garden bed.

      Hippeastrum at home: transplantation, temperature regime

      Before planting, new flower growers have many questions about caring for hippeastrum at home, and one of them is: how to properly replant hippeastrum, choose a pot, soil and position the bulb?

      Finding the optimal size container is quite simple. You need to focus on the size of the bulb. If you place it in the center of the container, then there should be a space of 3-4 cm from the onion to the edges of the pot. After flowering, the bulb will grow in width and can produce children that need space for normal development. The height of the pot should be at least 15-20cm. Hippeastrum has a very powerful root system, and if comfortable conditions are created, the bulb will quickly regain its strength after flowering and thank its owners with the younger generation.

      To transplant hippeastrum at home, it is better to use a wet mixture of peat and sand 50/50. The sand will compact the peat and prevent the roots from rotting. Drainage at the bottom of the pot ensures that the bulb does not rot and the roots will freely absorb moisture. Expanded clay, fine gravel, and large-fraction foam balls are perfect for the drainage system.

      When planting, 2/3 of the bulb is placed in the soil, and 1/3 of it should look out. This is done for prevention purposes.

    • With this planting method, the neck of the bulb will not suffer from waterlogging.
    • Part of the bulb will be warmed by the sun, and sunbathing is an excellent stimulator for fast and rich flowering.
    • With this planting method, hippeastrum tolerates the cutting of the peduncle without stress after flowering, and quickly increases the lost mass.
    • The sun has an excellent bactericidal property that suppresses harmful bacteria and infectious diseases.

      After planting, the pot with hippeastrum must be placed in a cool (+10-+15 C) dark place so that the root system can grow. The peculiarity of bulbous flowers is that in sunlight they quickly produce leaves, and the development of the root system lags behind for two weeks. If you plant such a plant in the soil after the leaves first appear, it will develop poorly and feed on the vitality of the bulb. Only healthy and strong roots will properly nourish the green mass and give bright flowering.

      Three weeks after planting, hippeastrum can be placed on the windowsill at home. At this time, it is important to ensure that the soil in the pot does not dry out. If the temperature in the room is +20-+25C, then in a week or two a thick peduncle will appear from the bulb. During this period, it is necessary to provide the plant with maximum light so that the arrow does not overgrow and stretch. Watering will have to be reduced to a minimum until the active growth of the peduncle stops and the formation of buds begins.

      Hippeastrum after flowering

      After the hippeastrum blooms, the peduncle is cut off. If the bulb is large, then another arrow may appear in a week. Then the plant needs to be fed with phosphorus fertilizer and enjoy its beauty for some time. This also happens when the soil in a pot frequently dries out and is a consequence of stress. In this case, it is better to break the arrow if you plan to plant the bulb next year, and give the bulb the opportunity to build up the required mass.

      If the main goal of cultivation is bright flowering, then the rest period of the hippeastrum after flowering must be strictly observed. In this case, the bulb is transplanted into fresh soil every year, after cooling for two months in the refrigerator.

      Hippeastrum care at home: reproduction

      Hippeastrum is propagated by dividing bulbs, pups and seeds. During seed propagation, the genetic characteristics of the mother plant are not transmitted. Most varieties are F-hybrids, which means that when their seeds are sown, the characteristics of the variety will be lost. The baby follows the maternal line 100%.

      If you need to propagate an interesting variety, then it is better not to observe a dormant period and keep the plant in the active phase for several years in a row, preventing flowering. Then full-fledged children are formed faster, which in two to three years can be separated from the parent.

      Experienced flower growers use in their practice this method of propagating hippeastrum at home, such as cutting out or cutting the bottom. The method is quite simple, but requires skill and cleanliness.

        1. Using a sterile scalpel, make cuts on the bottom of the onion or scrape off a small part of it in the center, moving towards the rim of the edges.
        2. Dry the plant and place it in neutralized wet peat and seal it hermetically.
        3. The package is placed in the refrigerator.
        4. Air the bag two or three times a week for 10-15 minutes a day.
        5. After small peas-onions have formed at the cut site, the bag is removed from the refrigerator and placed in a warm (from +20C) dark place.
        6. It remains to monitor the moisture level of the peat in the bag and the condition of the young bulbs. With good care, within 6-8 months they will be ready to separate from the queen cell and plant on their own.
    • This method is ideal for quickly propagating rare varieties of hippeastrum.

      Hippeastrum diseases

      Excess fertilizer can cause the death of the plant. During the period from the appearance of the arrow to the end of flowering, it is enough to carry out two or three fertilizing with potassium and phosphorus fertilizers. If the soil contains the necessary microelements, then you can do without fertilizers and start feeding after trimming the peduncle. A strong concentration of fertilizers and excess nitrogen can burn the roots and cause the bulb to rot.

      Hippeastrum responds well to feeding with potassium permanganate liquid. It not only nourishes the plant, but also disinfects the soil. Watering with potassium permanganate is an excellent prevention against red rot, which often causes plant death. When infected with this disease, it is necessary to remove all the red tissue on the bulb and sprinkle it with foundationol powder and lubricate it with brilliant green.

      Problems with hippeastrum at home

      The bright winter sun can cause burns on the leaves of hippeastrum. If the hippeastrum is on the windowsill, then it is better to shade it with parchment paper or spandex.

      You can often observe that instead of a peduncle, leaves grow from the bulb. This suggests that planting rules have been violated and flowering should not be expected this year. This happens if:

      There is a delay in the development of the root system;
      the rest period has not been maintained;
      We hurried to put the pot on the windowsill and the roots did not have time to fully develop.

      What to do if hippeastrum does not bloom? There are several reasons for this behavior:

      1. Planting a young bulb, recently separated from its parent, which has not yet gained strength for full flowering.
      2. No rest period.
      3. Incorrect planting: the bulb is completely immersed in the soil.

    If the hippeastrum does not bloom in the first case, follow agricultural practices and wait three to four years until the plant gets stronger.
    If the bulb is strong and mature, then it is necessary to gradually dry the soil in the pot, remove dry leaves, pull the bulbs out of the soil, inspect it, place it in an airtight bag and place it on the bottom shelf of the refrigerator for two months. Once a week, the bag should be ventilated and the condition of the bulb checked. If it rots or redness is observed, then you need to cut off the infected areas, treat the sections with foundation, dry them and put them back in the refrigerator. After observing the dormant period, the plant is planted in the soil, following the rules.
    Proper agricultural technology and careful care of hippeastrum at home will help to quickly propagate the flower and serve as a guarantee of excellent flowering.

    Hippeastrum: transplantation, cultivation, care, photo

    The beauty of the hippeastrum flower can bewitch. The plant blooms only once a year, but what! However, sometimes unpleasant surprises also occur: the flower never appeared or the plant began to wither. To prevent this from happening, you need to know the nuances of caring for hippeastrum and its growth characteristics.

    Plant characteristics

    Hippeastrum is usually classified as a bulbous plant, so it has its own characteristics of care and reproduction. In total, about 90 species of this plant are known. Accordingly, the size of the bulb may vary. It can reach a diameter of approximately 5-10 cm.

    Hippeastrum, which is also transplanted using bulbs, has linear leaves. Their color is predominantly green, but some specimens may have a purple coloration. The inflorescences of the plant are umbrella-shaped, the length of the peduncle is from 35 to 80 cm.

    The color of the flowers of this plant can be very different. Sometimes it can simply surprise you with its color scheme and unusual combinations.

    Features of home hippeastrum

    The hippeastrum flower, a photo of which can be seen in this article, has a number of features that you simply need to know in order to grow it.

    If you prefer plants with light flowers, then keep in mind that they produce very few seeds suitable for planting. In the summer, it is most advisable to move this plant to the garden by burying it in your garden plot.

    Blooming hippeastrum can be a great gift for any holiday. After all, the timing of its flowering is easily regulated. The flowering period lasts about ten days for each flower. For forcing, fairly large-sized bulbs are used, since they contain a fairly large supply of essential nutrients.

    How to care for hippeastrum at home?

    Growing hippeastrum is a rather difficult and painstaking process. Because of this, many are hesitant to have a blooming hippeastrum at home. For its growth, you should choose a well-lit place, preferably in a southern direction. However, the leaves should not be exposed to direct sunlight. The temperature should ideally be maintained at 17-25 °C.

    Hippeastrum, the transplantation of which into open ground in the summer is very favorable, should be protected from excessive waterlogging. At first, you need to water it very little, increasing the volume only with the appearance of a peduncle, which will signal that the growing season has begun.

    Hippeastrum bulbs do not like direct contact with water. You should ensure that the soil is moist, but in no case wet. The bottom method of watering from a tray is suitable, which is more gentle. After flowering has finished, watering can be significantly reduced and then stopped altogether.

    Hippeastrum transplantation technique

    Hippeastrum, planting and caring for which requires some effort, will certainly thank you with unusually beautiful and lush flowering. An important point for replanting it is the choice of pot. There should not be a distance exceeding 2 cm between the bulb and the wall. The hippeastrum, which is transplanted every three to four years, is planted either before the dormant period, or immediately before leaving it.

    To replant a plant, it is better to use the transshipment method so that the root system is minimally damaged. About a third of the bulb should be above the soil surface.

    Reproduction

    Hippeastrum, the planting and care of which are described in this article, has two methods of reproduction: seed and vegetative. In this case, it is better to sow the seeds immediately after you have collected them. So their germination rate reaches almost 100%. If the seeds dry out, the germination rate decreases sharply - up to 30%. However, the flower requires artificial pollination to produce seeds.

    You can also separate the so-called children from the main bulb. This can be done, for example, during a transplant. The baby is placed in a separate pot. It is noteworthy that for two years the leaves on it are not removed even during the dormant period.

    Rest period

    The hippeastrum flower, a photo of which can be seen in this article, is characterized by the presence of a dormant period. It lasts from September to January. Plants that were outdoors in the summer need to be brought indoors by September. At this time, watering should be minimized and then stopped altogether. In this regard, the leaves of the flower will dry out, which need to be removed and the stem cut off. After this, the pot should be sent to a dark and dry place with a temperature of 6-12 °C. There is no need to water it. The plant stays in this state for 6-8 weeks. After this, the period of awakening begins.

    Hippeastrum flowering period

    Hippeastrum, which was transplanted before the dormant period, needs to activate flowering. They especially resort to tricks to speed up this process if there is a celebration the day before, for which it is simply necessary to make arrangements.

    In order to speed up flowering, hippeastrum bulbs can be treated with water at a temperature of 43-45 ° C for three hours before planting in the ground. Temperature extremes will trigger flowering in about three weeks.

    You can also stop watering your pet at the end of August, and then move it to a dry and dark place until the end of January. After this, watering resumes again. After one to a month and a half, the plant is again ready to delight you with its flowers.

    Some gardeners also practice another technique. In July, all the leaves of the plant are cut off and watering is stopped, and with the resumption of watering, a liquid complex fertilizer is introduced. However, to avoid burns, the kidney must first be thoroughly wetted. The flowering period in this case will be around August or September.

    Why does hippeastrum refuse to bloom?

    Interruptions in flowering may be due to soil depletion. After all, this plant consumes quite a lot of nutrients, and their supply in a small pot is very limited. To avoid this, you need to fertilize regularly. This can be done along with watering.

    The reason for the lack of flowering may be pests. It is to fight them that the plant can devote all its main forces, but there simply won’t be any left for flowering.

    Flowering will not occur due to waterlogging of the soil, as well as due to rotting of the bulb.

    The timing and quality of subsequent flowering directly depend on how correctly the plant was introduced into the dormant period and how it spent it. From mid-September, you should completely stop watering, cut off the wilted peduncle and remove fallen leaves. Thus, the plant goes into a dormant period, which will last until you move the pot from a dark, cool room to a well-lit place and resume watering. Hippeastrum will again begin a period of active growth.

    When growing flowers indoors, hobbyists often encounter diseases and pests. To prevent them from causing a lot of trouble and killing your pet, preventive maintenance should be carried out periodically in the form of examination and antiviral treatment. Hippeastrum, transplantation of which is carried out with inspection of the bulb, can be treated with solutions of antifungal drugs.

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