More and more people are getting rid of heavy oversized bathtubs and installing showers in their place - this is a really profitable solution in many aspects. Such cabins make it possible to save space in apartments and private houses.

The existing assortment of shower cabins is quite wide, but just buying one or another model you like is not enough. It still needs to be properly assembled, installed and connected to communications. Many are interested in whether it is possible to install a purchased shower cabin with their own hands. In fact, you can, you just need to have the desire and minimal skills in the plumbing industry.

Features of types of cabins

All modern variations of shower cabins by type of design can be divided into open and closed. Open ones are almost always cheaper than closed ones. On top of that, for open models, a high-quality waterproofing is required in the bathroom. It is worth considering in more detail each of the types - this will help determine the choice.

Open

Open showers are integrated into the bathroom layout. Such designs are also called shower enclosures, since they can only be installed in a corner. Sometimes they consist of almost only transparent doors, the pallet is not available in all models (in the absence of a pallet, you will also have to install a so-called drain ladder).

Steam from hot water during the operation of such a cabin emanates in large quantities, respectively, and the humidity in the room will be high, and this necessitates high-quality waterproofing. In bathrooms with such a cabin, it is worth placing only moisture-resistant furniture.

Closed

Closed cabins are completely autonomous boxes; in addition to doors and a pallet, they also have side and rear walls, as well as a top cover. It can even be installed in the center of the bathroom if there is enough space. Closed cabins can be of different sizes - from 0.7x0.7 meters to 2x2.1 meters. It is convenient to place the smallest ones in small apartments.

Closed oval or square cabins, unlike corner ones, are isolated from the general microclimate of the bathroom, and this can be considered a plus.

Some models have one or more additional options, and this attracts a certain category of buyers. These are options such as:

• aromatherapy;
• hydromassage;
• Charcot's shower.

Sometimes there is even a radio receiver in the factory equipment of closed shower cabins. They are equipped with top and side lights, mirrors, shelves and other useful gadgets.

Choosing a location

The installation of a shower cabin cannot be carried out without a preliminary and balanced choice of a place for it. There must be an electrical network, water supply and drainage nearby. The distant location of these important communications can result in additional hassle and expenses.

It is desirable that there is also a ventilation hole (hood) next to the cabin - this will reduce or reduce to almost zero the accumulation of condensate on the walls.

Before fixing the booth, you should pay attention to the surface of the floor - the smoother it is, the better. If the condition of the floor leaves much to be desired, you will have to deal with leveling it or adjusting the height of the cab legs. The walls near which the cab is supposed to be installed must also be flat. If the angle between the walls is not equal to 90 degrees, the installer will surely face such a problem as the gap between the walls and the car. In most cases, such a gap can be closed with a sealant.

Assembly order

The shower enclosure is delivered from the store disassembled and packed. To make it easier to assemble the structure yourself, all components are carefully sorted and laid out by the manufacturer.

In addition, the kit necessarily contains an instruction, and it contains a clear drawing or diagram from which you can understand the procedure for assembling the kit. In general terms, this order can be represented as follows.

First, the pallet is assembled. Actually, this involves attaching legs to it (so that it stands level and does not have the opportunity to stagger), careful installation in the selected area and insertion of a sewer pipe. If the supplied pallet seems too fragile, it must be additionally reinforced with a frame.

The system of functioning of the walls in many models can seem complicated. But in fact, even an inexperienced home craftsman can make installation and combine all the spikes and grooves. After that, the walls are simply secured with connecting bolts. When installing the top panel (if there is one), it is important to assemble it in advance and to make yourself comfortable for working at a considerable height by taking a stepladder.

Installation of doors and small accessories is generally similar for all models, but there are some nuances. The design of the guides and rollers, the shape of the doors (they are not only semicircular, but also straight) may differ.

Sewerage connection

A high-quality instruction for the correct assembly of a shower stall usually contains information on how to equip a drain and install a siphon. So how is this done?

First, the protective film is removed from the drain pipe. Then a pipe with a diameter of 4 cm with a special adapter is brought to the place of installation of the pallet. The adapter must have sufficient rigidity - this will increase the functionality of the sewage system, there will be no stagnation in the area of ​​the corrugation.

Next, you need to raise the back of the shower tray and put the stall hose on the shower drain from the bottom. The other end of this hose should be secured in the drain. Its edge, reinforced with fiber, must be attached to the side nipple on the drain elbow.

Now all that remains is to put the pallet on the place prepared for the shower stall and check if the hose or connections are leaking where. The check is simple - open the taps completely and let the water in. At the same time, puddles should not form on the floor, and the drain should be fast and of high quality.

Water connection

As a rule, a shower stall comes with two flexible hoses (for hot and cold water), it is with their help that you need to connect. In general, the procedure is quite simple. First, you need to shut off the water supply pipes and open all the taps to the full, thanks to this, the pressure in the water supply system decreases.

Advice! If the diameters do not match, experts advise using the appropriate adapter.

Apply grease and sealant (FUM) to the threads of the installed fitting. After that, the flexible hoses should be connected to the water pipes (hot and cold) and secured with an adjustable wrench. Now there is only one more action - to turn on the water and check if the system is tight.

Electric wiring in the shower

As a rule, the provision of electricity is required by expensive shower stalls with various options. And there is an unshakable principle, which in this case should also be observed: the elements of water communication and the elements of the power grid are placed separately.

By default, you cannot connect the shower stall to the wiring diagram that is already there. The cab must be properly powered, for this procedure you will need electrical tools and materials: a double-insulated copper cable, a shield with an RCD (protective shutdown), a moisture-resistant IP44 socket.

Note! In some cases, the manufacturer requires the pallet to be grounded (the presence or absence of such a requirement should be clarified in the instructions). In this case, the sump is grounded by a potential equalization system.

In addition, it is advisable to install a separate automatic machine with a power of 25 Amperes and a power of 5000 watts in the apartment panel. It is such a device that most of all corresponds to the maximum electric current of the cabin. An RCD or a differential-type automatic device is installed in tandem with a circuit breaker. Such measures are necessary to protect against electric shock and prevent damage to the shower structure as a result of a short circuit.

Ceiling panel and fittings

The ceiling panel (or simply the roof) of the shower stall can contain several optional elements:

• shower head;
• fan;
• backlight;
• speaker.

This panel is assembled in advance, and then, ready-made, it is fixed on a special support formed with the help of side panels and the door frame. For a more reliable connection of the joints, you can use special lubricating and sealing materials. Processing them will help prevent a specific buzz of the shower stall when certain options are turned on.

Door fittings are usually installed last. For this operation to be successful, you need to perform a number of steps.

In the lower and upper parts of the doorway, the rollers that come with the kit and turned out to the maximum are installed. The door perimeter is finished with a sealing material. After that, the door (usually made of tempered glass or fiberglass) can be installed in its place in the overall structure.

Now it is necessary to determine the optimal position of the door by adjusting the upper roller mechanisms. The screws with which the rollers are fixed here are covered with special decorative plugs. Finally, the rest of the small accessories are installed: handles, a mirror, and so on.

This completes the installation itself. But in order to be completely confident in your new shower stall, it is worth conducting a final check of all components. The connections must be tight, and the pallet must not creak during operation (if a creak is emitted, the legs under the pallet are adjusted again). Only then can the booth be used.

Bulky heavy bathtubs have long begun to give up their positions to a more modern solution, namely shower cabins. They are a great option for many homes for several reasons. Firstly, space in the bathroom is saved, since the shower cubicle has a compact vertical arrangement, which allows additional accessories to be placed on the area. Secondly, the versatility of the design allows you not only to take a standard shower, but also to enjoy various types of hydromassage and rain shower built into the miracle device. This means that there is no doubt about the practicality of the acquisition. There remains only one question - is it possible to install a shower cabin with your own hands? Quite! To do this, you need only two things - carefully study the manufacturer's instructions and take into account the recommendations from this article.

What does a shower stall consist of?

Each manufacturer produces several types of shower structures with their own characteristics, for example, an audio system and a control panel. However, most shower cabins are angular and consist of a standard set of basic elements:

• pallet with apron;
• back panel;
• side walls with vertical posts;
• sliding door;
• roofs.

What you need to install a shower cabin

Note! The shower cabin can only be installed on a waterproof, absolutely flat surface. Therefore, you should take care of the preparatory work in advance.

To install a shower stall with your own hands, you need to stock up on several tools:

• silicone sealant. It is not always needed - there are models that exclude water leakage;
• various screwdrivers;
• flexible hoses;
• fum tape (can be replaced with tow);
• electric drill;
• adjustable wrench;
• building level;
• special pistol.

In the process, you will also need additional little things - a knife, gloves, nuts with washers and self-tapping screws.

Important! Before starting all work, you must make sure that all parts of the shower stall, especially glass, are present and intact.

It is hardened, so when struck, not small pieces are scattered, the ringing of which will be clearly audible even in a packed box.

Step-by-step assembly and installation of a shower cabin with your own hands

In order for the installation to be as convenient as possible, it should start from the bottom and gradually go up.

Pallet assembly

Trays for hydromassage boxes can be made of various materials and, accordingly, the assembly of some structures will have its own characteristics.

• Enamelled steel. It is a sturdy construction that can last for a very long time. But there were times when, during work, she was deformed from her weight. And as a result, the enamel was damaged. Another disadvantage is poor heat storage;
• Processed cast iron. It is very efficient at keeping heat in spite of the time it takes to heat it up. To protect it from the influence of the external environment and the appearance of corrosion, it is covered, as a rule, with enamel. The peculiarity of installing a cast-iron pallet is the difficulty associated with its heavy weight;
• Faience (ceramics), marble (artificial stone). What these two material categories have in common is that they are both ideal for installation in shower enclosures. Both earthenware and marble have an attractive appearance, heat up quickly, are able to keep warm for a long time and have excellent wear resistance. However, their production technology is very expensive, which naturally affects the selling price. It should be noted that these materials are very fragile and they simply collapse upon impact;
• Kvaril is a mixture of acrylic and quartz. Such material for reinforced pallets is considered one of the best in terms of its properties. It is only slightly inferior to ceramic. And strength and excellent thermal insulation is achieved thanks to quartz, which is part of the structure of this material;
• Glass;
• Wood;
• Plastic, acrylic. It is the most widely available material on the market. However, during operation, it cannot boast of its optimal characteristics. Although lightness and strength, as well as the availability of all kinds of shapes and colors in addition to simple assembly, have provided the most popularity of all the previous options. If there is a need for repairs, then acrylic lends itself easily to this, and an additional metal frame is used to strengthen it.

Important! First of all, when assembling the pallet, you need to protect your hands with gloves, because the back of this element is covered with fiberglass, which can easily penetrate the skin.

Steps for direct assembly of a reinforced pallet:

• First you need to turn the pallet upside down. (It is better to remove the protective film later in order not to scratch the surface).
• Attach a metal cruciform frame to the bottom of the pallet, which is fixed with special studs. First, you should try on the structure so that the holes for the studs coincide with the special fasteners. Then thread the pins through the frame and place them in the holes in the pallet.
• Screw the frame with self-tapping screws.
• Clamp the studs on the frame. They should be pressed with ordinary nuts on both sides of the frame channels - upper and lower.
• In order to perfectly level the surface, you must use a level. This is a very important part because skewing the pallet in one direction will contribute to the flow of water onto the floor.

Important! The cruciform frame can be screwed to the pallet only in embedded places - bulges, where chipboard is "hidden" inside. This will allow the reinforcement to be securely attached without the risk of punching the pallet with a screw.

Assembling the apron

When installing this component, one important detail should be taken into account. The support legs should be just below the edge of the apron so that the weight of the structure falls on them. Otherwise, the plastic of the apron simply will not withstand the load and will crack.

• First, along the entire rim of the pallet, small brackets should be attached with self-tapping screws.
• Then, put the upper part of the apron in the above mountings.
• Place the lower brackets near the support legs, which must be tightened with nuts.
• Screw the apron onto the lower brackets. Close the self-tapping screws with decorative shiny corks.

Drain fixing

For the convenience of the process, you can attach the drain hose as follows:

• It is necessary to turn the pallet to one side;
• Insert the bottom valve from the front;
• Put an elastic band on the back and secure it with a plastic fastener;
• Connect a corrugated drain hose, the length and direction of which can be easily adjusted.

If the instructions are followed, a moderate tightening of the rings (without overtightening!) Should ensure complete tightness. However, to check, it is still necessary to close the lower end of the corrugated pipe and fill the system with a small amount of water. If there are no leaks, then you can connect it to the general structure.

Installation of the upper part of the cab

By means of simple steps it is necessary to assemble the upper part of the shower stall:

• First you need to decide on the lower and upper arcuate profiles. The upper one differs from the lower one by a special groove on which the roof will subsequently be installed.
• Straight aluminum profiles should be screwed vertically to the lower arch on both sides.
• Then you need to attach the top arc for the main frame - the frame.
• The rear windows can now be installed. Both glasses are slightly different from each other. One of them has two holes located horizontally for a shelf, and in the second two vertically for attaching a hand shower. Another important point - the glossy side of the panels is the "face", and the matte surface is the back.
• Screwing the rear window onto the vertical side profiles. One side of each glass is flat, with holes that must necessarily coincide with the holes in the frame profiles.
• Center panel connection. It is installed between the two rear windows by screwing self-tapping screws into special mounts.

Assembly of shower box accessories

Do-it-yourself installation of a shower stall will be much easier if the internal parts are put in a not yet fully assembled structure.

• First screw on the on / off mixer. The lower part is clamped with a screw, and the upper part with a nut. At the same time, the decorative shiny overlay at the top is also pressed.
• Then you need to set the knob of the cold and hot water switch. The internal shape of the hole will clearly indicate where to install it. Basically it is a square that attaches to the bottom switch. At the end of the installation, be sure to tighten the handle with a small nut located under the decorative cap.
• Then you should put the adjustment knob, which directs the water either to the hand shower or to the upper tropical one. The inner hole of such a handle will be round and, of course, will already be located on the top of the on-off mixer. For the normal functioning of this part, tightening with a nut is a necessary step.
• Now you need to install a fitting for connecting a hand shower. It is threaded through the provided hole and secured from the back with a plastic nut.
• In order to attach a shelf, you first need to install a mount for it.
• The shower holder is screwed into the pre-drilled holes on the rear window.

Installing the front doors and roof

Not all consumers know how to install a shower enclosure without damage. To do this, you just need an assistant to move bulky parts.

• First you need to install the upper part of the shower stall on a pallet and carefully screw it on with self-tapping screws.
• Then install the flat front windows. They need to be "dressed" in a rubber seal, and then put into the groove of the lower profile, the upper and, finally, the side. It is imperative to tighten the fastening bolts to securely fix the glass.
• Now you need to assemble the movable glass of the shower stall. They have holes for mounting the rollers. The edge to which the holes are very close will be located in the middle of the flaps. And for the rollers there are differences - in the lower ones the adjustment will not be automatic, but manual. Rollers are installed from the front of the door, two on each side - the upper and lower.
• Then you need to put seals to protect against water leaks and handles.
• When installing the roof, take into account that a decorative ventilation strip and a rain shower must be attached to it, which is threaded through the central hole and fixed from the back.
• After installing the overhead shower, you need to connect a flexible water hose to its “leg”.
• A water hose is also needed for a hand shower.
• Attach both free ends of the flexible hoses to the back of the on / off mixer.

This completes the assembly and installation of the shower stall.

Features of connecting a shower cabin

The shower cubicle can be connected to two main systems.

Electrical connection

Such a connection requires a powerful three-core cable with a minimum cross-section of 2 sq. mm.

Sewer connection

For normal drainage, it is necessary to locate the pipe leading to the sewer with a slight slope. However, when installing a shower siphon above the drain, all the water will drain naturally.

When carrying out repairs, many people prefer showers and boxes, instead of traditional baths. Assembling a shower cabin with your own hands is not a difficult task if you know the sequence of actions (our video instruction is suitable for this) and have the necessary tools.

Choosing a shower cabin

Depends, first of all, on the aesthetic expectations and budget of the owner of the apartment.

Types of shower cabins

Conditionally, shower cabins can be divided into three types:

• simple shower enclosures. These are ordinary cubicles, which for the most part do not have a roof, and the walls of the bathroom play the role of side walls. They perform only the functions of a shower and do not require special skills for installation;
• simple showers. More expensive in cost, they have 4 walls and a roof. Usually equipped with several nozzles, the water pressure from which can be adjusted, and also have a hydromassage function;
• multifunctional shower cabins and boxes. These are cabins with rich technical equipment - Sharko shower, steam generation, Turkish bath, "tropical rain" function, etc. Often these models are equipped with a variety of backlights, radio. Due to the abundance of functions, they are rather difficult to install and require certain skills.
• In addition, the booths differ in the material for the manufacture of pallets (acrylic, plastic, steel, cast iron), the material for the manufacture of doors (impact-resistant glass, plastic), the type of opening (swing, sliding, double-leaf, folding). The size and shape of the cubicle should be chosen based on the size of the bathroom.

Preparing for cab installation

After the cabin is selected and delivered, the question arises - how to connect a shower cabin? Is it necessary to invite a specialist, or can you cope with this work on your own? If there is an assembly diagram and a minimum set of knowledge, then it is quite possible to do it on your own.

Scheme: the device of a shower cabin

Structurally, the shower cubicle consists of four main elements:

• pallet on legs adjustable in height,
• roof,
• roller doors,
• wall and side panels.

The delivery set includes a step-by-step assembly diagram in Russian. Its presence must be checked at the stage of delivery. Before you start installing the shower cabin with your own hands, you need to check the presence of all components in accordance with the instructions and free them from the packaging film.

It is necessary to prepare in advance all the tools and materials that will be required during the installation process. This includes:

• tools - keys, screwdrivers, screwdriver, drill, level, tape measure, threading die;
• consumables - sealant, sealing and insulating tapes for the shower cabin;
• sewerage fittings - siphon, fittings, hoses and pipes.

What you need to install a shower cabin with your own hands

If the cab needs to be connected to a power supply, then an additional power tool and electrical fittings may be required.

Important! It is not difficult to assemble budget models of shower cabins and connect them to the sewage system on your own. If the cabin provides for many functions, it is better to entrust its assembly to a specialist, since violation of the installation rules leads to the termination of warranty service.

Cabin installation steps

The assembly of the shower stall is carried out in stages:

• installation of the base of the cabin with a sewer supply;
• installation of walls, doors and roof of the cab;
• connection of water supply and electrics;
• tightness check and test run.

Before proceeding with the assembly of the shower stall, carefully read the instructions

When assembling initially, do not fully tighten the fasteners. It is recommended that you first make a preliminary assembly, make sure that all the elements are in place and correctly connected, and only then tighten the fasteners until they stop.

Sealant selection

A sealant is a fairly important consumable used when installing a shower stall. Its further operation will depend on its quality. There are two main types of sealants used during installation:

• acrylic. More affordable, it can withstand temperature extremes and humidity quite firmly. But from constant interaction with water it can lose its properties, so it must be used with caution;
• silicone. This is the most common type. The cost is slightly higher than acrylic, but, at the same time, it carefully fills all the grooves and joints and prevents mold. When choosing a silicone sealant, you need to pay attention to the composition - it should not contain resin impurities. It is better to make the choice in favor of more expensive sealants.

Silicone sealant for shower enclosure installation

Cab pallet assembly

It is carried out simultaneously with the installation of the drain. This stage must be given special attention, since a violation of the integrity of the structure can lead to poor drainage and flooding.

The pallet is installed in the following sequence:

• legs are attached to the pallet and it is installed on a horizontal surface. Using the level, the required position is calculated, the legs are twisted to the required height and fixed;

Fixing the legs to the shower tray

• connection to the siphon pallet. For the connection, it is advisable to use a rigid pipe, and not a corrugation, since over time the pipe can sag and clog;
• the siphon is connected to the sewer.

Install the pallet as close as possible to the sewer drain. If this is not possible, it may be necessary to use a drain pump with a solenoid valve.

Important! Use a sealant to connect the parts of the shower stall and the sewer, since the seals, although they provide a reliable connection, can weaken over time.

Installation of cab walls

The installation of the walls of the shower cabin must also be carried out, observing the following order:

• guiding structures, into which the glasses will subsequently be inserted, are carefully coated with a transparent sealant;
• glasses are installed and pressed with special paws, a sealant is attached to them;
• silicone is applied along the edge of the pallet;
• the side panels are attached to the pallet.

If the sealant gets on the glass, you must immediately remove it, after drying, removal without traces will be quite difficult.

Installing the walls of the shower cabin

The assembled structure must be left for a while, until the sealant and silicone are completely dry. This usually takes up to two days.

Installation of roof and cab doors

Before the roof of the shower stall is fixed, a watering can, a fan and lighting are mounted in it. Also, the design can provide for the presence of a speaker, it is also mounted in advance. All parts are mounted on self-tapping screws and sealant, which will eliminate leakage.

Do-it-yourself shower door installation

After the roof is assembled, it is secured with screws and sealant.

Shower doors can be installed before or after fixing the roof, depending on its design. Sliding doors are fixed on special rollers on the frame. Usually these are 8 rollers (4 at the top and bottom). After the doors are installed, you can proceed with the installation of handles and fittings. All shelves and holders are installed.

Connecting the cab to the power supply

Do-it-yourself installation of a shower stall does not always involve connecting the power supply. This may be required by models equipped with a hydromassage or steam generator.

Shower cabin connected to the mains

The connection must be made using a copper cable with a cross section of 2 sq. Mm. If the cabin consumes more than 5 kW per hour, then you will additionally need to install a separate machine.

Important! For the connection, it is better to invite a professional electrician who will ensure the safe operation of the device.

Connecting the cab to the water supply

When the assembly of the shower stall is almost finished, it is necessary to connect it to the water supply.

This requires hoses and metal-plastic pipes. Installation procedure:

• first of all, all materials are prepared, pipes are cut and fittings, taps are selected;
• the water supply in the bathroom is blocked, taps are connected to supply water to the cabin;
• taps are connected to the shower cabin with pre-prepared pipes;
• water is supplied to check the tightness.

Scheme: connecting the shower cabin to the water supply

Hydromassage jets are often clogged with limescale. For a longer and more trouble-free operation of the shower stall, it is advisable to use filters that will purify the water before it enters the nozzles.

If the cabin is to be installed on the upper floors of multi-storey buildings, then to ensure its functions (for example, hydromassage), the water pressure may not be enough. Then you need a pump and a reservoir to supply water. But, this is rather an exception to the rule - usually the water pressure for the operation of the shower stall is quite enough.

The first launch of the shower

When the installation of the shower cabin with your own hands has come to an end, it remains only to make the first start and check its performance.

Before starting, it is necessary to check again the reliability of fastening of all nuts, the tightness of the holes and joints. It is better to check the pallet under the weight of its own weight - to stomp in it. He should not make any sounds and stagger.

Before turning on the cab, carefully check the tightness of all connections.

After a visual check, you can turn on the water supply. It is better to leave the booth with the water turned on for 10-15 minutes to make sure it is tight. If even minimal smudges are found, they must be eliminated.

Observing the procedure described in the article, the cab connection can be made in the shortest possible time and without financial costs.

How to assemble and install a shower cabin with your own hands: video

The growing popularity of shower cabins is influenced by their economy and ease of installation. The assembly of a shower cabin, of different models, is carried out according to the same plan. The instructions will tell you the installation procedure.

Assembly steps common to all types of cabins

The shower enclosure is delivered from the point of sale disassembled and packed. The plethora of detail packs are confusing at first with their variety. All components are sorted, grouped and arranged in packages so as to suggest how to properly assemble the shower stall in order to consistently follow all the steps for assembling the kit.

Some box models are designed to be self-assembled from the inside. This is convenient when the installation of the shower enclosure takes place in the cramped conditions of a small room.

Installation of the corner provides for adherence to a certain sequence. Do-it-yourself shower stall assembly is performed alone within a few hours. This provides the user with several advantages in the event of minor repairs.

The owner of a modern device, who has independently performed the installation, will not be at a loss when faced with the question: how to disassemble the shower stall. At any time, he can partially disassemble, carry out minor repairs, and reassemble the structure without resorting to paid cab repair services.

Removing and sorting shower components

The cab is delivered to its destination in several packages. Packaged separately:

• Back walls;
• Glass, doors and vertical profiles;
• Central panel;
• Pallet, roof, horizontal profiles and accessories.

The markings on the boxes allow you to determine, without looking inside, which components are in them. Do-it-yourself assembly of a shower stall begins with the sequential opening of the packages with the necessary parts. Manufacturers recommend after purchasing the box to unpack it and check the package contents.

Pallet preparation

The set of a corner with a high pallet includes supporting structures, a screen, and fittings for fastening. In some models, it is sold already attached to a support frame. In this case, it is sufficient to mount a siphon and adjustable heels. To avoid damage to the surface layer, the protective film should be removed no earlier than the end of all work related to the installation of the shower room. The installation of a box with a low pallet is carried out on a scaffold.

Correct installation ensures the stable position of the corner cab and the ability to withstand the impressive weight of the person in it. The assembled pallet is sent to the place.

With the help of the building level, by screwing / unscrewing the heels, it is set in a horizontal position, ensuring the stability of the entire structure.

Assembling the frame

Horizontal slats are placed on the pallet. They are shifted to the rear board and fixed with self-tapping screws. Vertical corners and top slats are mounted on them. Attach the door opening guides. The resulting structure forms the frame on which the rear and center panels are installed. Observing a certain order, the cabin can be easily assembled by yourself. If the assembly of the frame is carried out in 4 hands, preferably the assembly order can be changed. After reading the instructions, which describes in detail how to assemble a shower stall, they mount a spatial structure from a corner and profiles, then fasten it to a pallet.

Mounting the center panel and rear panels

The center panel requires the most attention. Before installing it, mount all the hanging parts. The mixer, hose connections, control panels are fixed on it. When assembled, the panel is placed in a frame, previously connected to the pallet, and screwed on with self-tapping screws.

Shelves are mounted on the rear walls. The rear panels are attached using special brackets. Depending on the design, silicone sealant or the included special profiled gaskets are used for this.

Preparing the dome

Attach a rain shower and lighting to the dome. Speaker with decorative trims and fan. The dome is installed on the cab and fastened to the rear walls. According to the designations, connect the backlight, speaker, fan and power supply. The ends of the wires are equipped with lock connectors, eliminating installation errors.

Completion of assembly

Prepare the doors before hanging them. Rollers are attached to the canvases, two at the top and at the bottom. There are corresponding holes for their installation on the doors. The upper two-wheel rollers have an adjusting device, the lower ones are spring-loaded. Installation of door latches on the lower rail is necessary to prevent a fight against the rear walls when moving.

Travel stops are attached to the door guides. The door is brought inside the cab, the upper rollers are brought into the upper profile. The lower rollers are placed in a guide rail, secured with a spring-loaded latch. The ends of the doors are secured with magnetic strips with splash-proof moldings.

The assembly of the shower stall is completed by hanging the doors. Before you start using it, you should make sure that all connections are correctly assembled and secure.

Functional check

• Guided by the instructions on how to assemble the shower cabin and the rules of use, by alternately pressing the buttons on the control panel, they also make sure that they are working.
• It is imperative to make sure that the pallet is stable. If staggering is detected, it is eliminated by turning the adjustable heels of the legs.
• The drain should be inspected especially carefully. Its reliability will protect against leaks, which lead, at least, to unpleasant explanations with neighbors below. Reliable drainage is ensured by special gaskets on the threaded connections of the siphon. For best results, a silicone sealant is used.

Some nuances

In some cases, it is advisable to perform a preliminary assembly to familiarize yourself with how to assemble a shower enclosure. It is useful to do this in order to understand the principles of installation, mark holes, and, if necessary, purchase missing accessories.

The mounted drain must be equipped with additional outlets for connecting other plumbing fixtures. Do not forget about the inclusion of the revision in the sewage system.

The process of operating plumbing fixtures provides for periodic inspections and maintenance. Loose fasteners, leaking joints, changing doors or rain showers necessitate a complete or partial dismantling. If the assembly was carried out independently, the question of how to disassemble the shower stall does not cause bewilderment. Disassembly is carried out in the reverse order of installation. Do-it-yourself cab assembly saves money and increases confidence in the correct use of this convenient plumbing fixture.

Shower assembly video:

More detailed video:

The popularity of shower cabins is growing every year. The ability to significantly save space, a large number of additional options and "fashionable design", which often makes the shower cubicle the main decoration of the bathroom, have become the main reasons that showers have become an integral part of many bathrooms, in some cases even "ousted" from them " classic baths ". Since a shower stall is a complex plumbing fixture that is connected not only to the water supply and sewerage system, but also to the electrical network, its installation requires a fairly large amount of knowledge and skills. Although this does not mean at all that it is imperative to invite professional craftsmen to install a shower stall. It is quite possible to solve this problem on your own, observing several rules and recommendations. So, we install the shower cabin with our own hands.

Preparation of materials and tools

The first step is to check the presence of all the parts of the shower stall, as well as prepare the materials and tools necessary for installation.

The shower stall itself, as a rule, consists of the following elements:

• Pallet;
• Side walls;
• Roof;
• Doors;
• Front apron;
• Side racks.

In addition to the main parts, the shower cabin is completed with all the necessary fittings and fasteners. But, nevertheless, we recommend that you prepare a few additional washers, rubber gaskets and dowel nails in advance.

In addition to the cabin itself, for installation you will need an adjustable wrench, a level, straight and Phillips screwdrivers of different sizes, a hammer drill or an electric drill, a construction knife, sealant, fum tape or tow.

Pre-assembly

Before you start installing the cab, you must thoroughly study the instructions attached to it. And even if you did not have any questions while reading it, we strongly recommend that you carry out a trial assembly of the cabin before installing it in the bathroom.

This will allow not only to clearly understand the principle of assembly of the entire structure, but also to make sure that all (even the smallest) parts are present, check the quality of holes and fittings, as well as identify defective parts and replace them in a timely manner. Of course, pre-assembly will take you some time, but it will avoid many "unpleasant surprises" during the final assembly.

Naturally, during preliminary assembly it is not necessary to "tightly" tighten the fastening bolts and nuts, and also use a sealant.

Pallet assembly

Shower tray assembly

The assembly of the shower stall begins with the assembly and installation of the shower tray. It should be assembled in accordance with the instructions, but, as a rule, it is performed as follows:

At the corners of the pallet, studs are attached, on which a cruciform support is installed. The pallet legs are attached to the ends of the pins or to special pins on the support, which can be adjusted. In addition, an additional fifth leg is installed in the center of the support cross.

In some cab models, the support cross is additionally attached to the pallet using self-tapping screws. For this, it is advisable to use only those self-tapping screws that were supplied with the cab, since they are guaranteed not to fit in length and will not go through the pallet.

The next step in assembling the pallet is the installation of the drain siphon.

Shower trap

To do this, it is enough to unscrew the upper fixing nut from the siphon neck and, pushing the free pipe through the hole in the bottom of the siphon, screw it into place.

Special wrenches are not required for this - the plastic nut is tightened "all the way" by hand. To ensure the tightness of the connection, do not forget to install a rubber gasket between the nut and the pan (it must be supplied with the shower enclosure). If, after checking for leaks (for this, it is enough to pour a little water into the pan) a leak is found, it must be eliminated with silicone sealant.

And the final part of the pallet assembly is the fastening of the decorative apron brackets (if this is provided for by the design of the shower stall).

Pallet installation

When the pallet is assembled, it can be installed in the place chosen for the shower stall.

The pallet is installed in several stages.

First, the pallet must be aligned horizontally and height. To do this, you need to use the usual rack level.

It is placed on the edge of the pallet, after which, by adjusting the height of the legs with the help of special screws, the edge is matched with the level of the horizon.

When this is done, it is necessary to make a mark for attaching the fixing hooks. To do this, using a marker or pencil, outline the bottom edge of the pallet adjacent to the wall. On this line, in the area of ​​the corners of the pallet, holes are made into which special fixing hooks are screwed. The ends of the hooks should be left down. Now you can put the pallet in place, and then fix it by lifting the ends of the hooks.

When installing the pallet, check that the free end of the siphon is securely connected to the drain.

It remains to carefully "siliconize" the joint between the pallet and the wall, after which the pallet installation can be considered complete.

Front apron

It makes no sense to pay much attention to the fastening of the front apron - it is fastened in accordance with the instructions on special clips-clips, or on ordinary self-tapping screws.

As in the case with the additional fastening of the lower support, we recommend using only the self-tapping screws supplied with the cab.

Installation of curtains

Before installing, it is necessary to inspect the glass curtains for damage, and also determine where they are up and where they are down.

If there is no marking, the upper part of the shutters can be identified by the presence of mounting holes.

Now we insert the glasses into the guide rails, having previously applied a layer of silicone sealant to the grooves. Glasses are fixed in guides with clamping bolts.

The finished frame with glass can be placed on a pallet.

We install the assembled curtain vertically (we check it using a level or a plumb line) and draw a vertical line with a marker or pencil along its front edge. On this line, we fasten the connecting profile with self-tapping screws.

Before finally tightening the screws, coat the joint between the profile and the wall with a sealant. Remove excess material immediately with a dry cloth.

We attach the lower guide for the cab door to the pallet. We also apply a layer of sealant between it and the pallet.

We install the curtains and fix them on the lower rail and side profiles using self-tapping screws.

It is better to tighten the self-tapping screws after they are all installed.

It remains to install the upper guide arc. This completes the installation of the shutters.

Wall and rear panel mounting

Shower cabin with back panel

Walls and a rear shower panel are not present in all models of shower enclosures, but, nevertheless, we will briefly consider their installation. The walls are assembled in the same way as curtains on vertical uprights and horizontal profiles.

The side walls are attached to the corner rails, the pallet and the wall with self-tapping screws. When they are installed between them, they attach the back panel.

Connection to the rear panel of water using flexible hoses, as well as power supply (if provided by the design) is made before its final installation.

Doors

Before installation, the upper rollers must be installed on the shower doors.

In the event that the lower rollers are equipped with special springs, you can immediately install them. The roller mounting bolts should not be completely tightened.

If the lower rollers are “spring-loaded”, they simply “snap into the lower groove”. If not, then first they are installed in the groove and only after that they are fixed on the doors with fixing bolts.

We check the doors for tightness of convergence and, if necessary, adjust them using eccentric bolts. When the doors are adjusted, you can finally tighten the fasteners of the upper and lower rollers.