Despite the large selection of ready-made furniture, many people spend a lot of time and energy looking for the right wardrobe or bed. Through the "sieve of doubts" various models are sifted, differing from each other in design, color and size, but nothing fits. This is exactly the problem faced by a user of our site with a nickname avamonster, and a homemade bed became an excellent way out of the "furniture impasse" for him. In this article, we make a bed together with our user!

Review of lifting bed models.
- What tools and materials are needed to make a bed.
- Operating procedure.

DIY bed

avamonster FORUMHOUSE user

I need a transforming bed in my house, which can be quickly and easily put into a closet against the wall. When folded, the front of such a bed should be completely identical to the "front" of a conventional wardrobe. Therefore, there should not be any protruding handles, protruding legs, etc. outside. Such a bed should not take up much space. When unfolded, the "transformer" should turn into a fully functional bed designed for comfortable sleep, and not a guest "crib".

Shoveling the Internet, reviewing dozens of bed layouts and sketches and visiting several furniture stores, the forum user could not find a model that would fully satisfy his needs. Namely:

• You need a transformer for a standard mattress size 1600x2000x150 mm, like a normal sofa; The height of the unfolded bed should not exceed 45-55 cm;
• The width of the transforming bed is equal to: the width of the mattress (1600 mm) plus the thickness of the side walls of the cabinet, made of chipboard. That is, approximately 1632 mm. The depth of the bed is equal to the depth of the cabinet - 450 mm. In the unfolded state, the length of the bed should not exceed 2100-2200 mm;
• In the open position, the folding bed should fit well into the interior of the apartment, and not look like the simplest analogue of a "folding bed". Should be easily and quickly removed;
• The unfolded bed should not take up much space in the house and prevent free movement around the room, opening of adjacent wardrobes, cupboards, drawers, etc .;
• Safety: the bed should not have sharp corners that you can hit with your foot, hidden cavities and crevices where pets or small children can climb. The gas lift or the springs of the opening mechanism should not be located near the head of the sleeper;
• "Humane" price tag.

We present a selection of photos of those folding beds that the forum member looked at, as well as give his comments on why this or that model did not suit him.

A quick glance at this picture is enough to understand that this is not a simple wardrobe, but a wardrobe into which they have managed to build a "folding bed". It would be better not to build in - the slots are visible from below and from above, and the handles are very inconveniently located.

This lifting model when folded is no different from a regular wardrobe, but once it is unfolded, the bed blocks access to cabinets and drawers. This means that it must constantly be removed and lowered, which is very inconvenient.

Option of a wardrobe bed with sliding doors. This model does not take up much space, and when folded is indistinguishable from a standard cabinet. The main inconvenience is the large depth of the "transformer" - 80 cm. You will have to sleep, practically lying with your head and shoulders in the closet. Not everyone will like it. So this "guest" option was also dropped.

A typical model that you can often see in stores. Avamonster was not satisfied with the fact that, instead of springs or a gas lift, the bed is removed using a counterweight. When it leans back, you can see that the bottoms are similar to the legs of a "clamshell". And the price exceeds 40 thousand rubles.

Another common option. Avamonster's main claims to this folding bed are that the legs stick out like "antennae" from above, and when open, the mattress lies inside the bed frame. Passing next to such a bed, you can accidentally hit your foot on its sharp corner. A block with springs hangs next to the head, and by the "tram" handles you can immediately determine that this is not an ordinary cabinet, but a "transformer".

avamonster FORUMHOUSE user

All the models that I saw in the store had a construct: "a box made of chipboard or plywood, into which a mattress is simply inserted." It didn't suit me. I happened to be in the USA, where I saw another construct: the frame is "inside" the base under the mattress, and the mattress itself is slightly wider than the base. The springs or gas lift are located under the mattress, and not stick out in front of the face. It seems to me that this option is safer and easier to use.

There is also an option with a double bed-caterpillar, but such "transformers" are expensive and do not often catch your eye.

The search for a ready-made folding bed was not crowned with success, but a negative result is also a result. As a result of his ordeals, avamonster finally decided on the list of requirements for the product and therefore decided to assemble the bed himself.

Another interesting option is this "two in one" option, but this "DIY your own double bed" project is much more difficult to implement at home.

Material required for assembling a transforming bed

Looking ahead, let's say that the forum user managed to assemble a double bed, which is no different and even surpasses industrial or custom-made samples. The width of the "transformer" is 1640 mm, the length in the unfolded state is 2130 mm, the height is 500 mm.

According to avamonster, sketchup helped him achieve the success of the project and do everything right the first time, without numerous alterations and changes. Having spent three months studying the program from "0", having sat over the drawings and dimensions, the forum member sketched virtual models of the crib and diagrams of its nodes that can be twisted on the monitor screen (see pictures).

This approach allowed us to avoid many mistakes. Indeed, many novice craftsmen often forget the main building proverb: "measure seven times, cut once." An attempt to immediately translate everything "into metal", without plans, drawings and competent calculation of several options, leads to damage to the material due to constant changes in the design of the product.

A DIY bed is made from simple materials and does not require any special tools to make it.

What you need to make a product

• Chipboard sheets - 1580x995x16 mm. Sawing to size, and edging of the ends of the slabs was done "on the side". It took 12 thousand rubles;

• Tailor-made springs for the hoist. Those. spring parameters: bar diameter - 4 mm, outer diameter - 36 mm, number of turns - 30. Spring length with hooks - 18 cm. Stretching stroke - 21 cm. Applied force -55 kg. The parameters of the spring, which depend on the "shoulder" of the lever and the total weight of the bed, were calculated by the forum member in a special calculator. A set of 5 parts cost avamonster 3.5 thousand rubles;

• The frame of the "do it yourself" bed is a shaped tube with dimensions of 4x2 cm. The wall thickness of the frame tube is 2 mm. In total, 18 meters of such a pipe were purchased. The pipe was cut to size into elements on the spot so that it could be taken home in a regular "passenger car". It took another 1.5 thousand rubles;

avamonster

Because I do not have a welding machine, so I had to drill holes in the pipes for the fastening bolts. This made the task of assembling the wardrobe bed much more difficult. The best option is to cook everything yourself or have it done to a locksmith's shop to order, otherwise I also had to clean the pipes from rust. I pasted over the surfaces of all visible metal parts of the pipes with a film imitating wood.

• Hardware. The DIY bed was assembled with bolts, nuts and screws. A homemade frame for strength and rigidity was twisted into corners for M6 bolts. All bolted connections were also calculated for the shear load. For all the necessary fasteners, the member of the forum spent another 4 thousand rubles.

How to assemble a transforming bed yourself: the main steps

The base for the mattress (chipboard sheets) was screwed to a homemade frame with special drilled screws. Such self-tapping screws have a "drill" at the end: the chipboard should be passed with a large diameter, steel - with a smaller one, and already at the finish, a recess under the head of the self-tapping screw is countersunk in the wood. Thus, in one step, the chipboard board is attracted to the metal frame without preliminary drilling.

The structure of the frame is designed so that the soft mattress is the widest part of the crib. In this case, it is impossible to hit the hard edge of the frame with your foot.

Now it is fashionable to make furniture on your own at home, and every year the number of home craftsmen is increasing. Someone prefers to purchase blanks and assemble the necessary furniture from them, while others do all the work on their own from start to finish. A homemade bed can be very simple or with intricate shapes and patterns. It's not just craftsmanship and equipment - personal preference and financial ability play an important role. In this article we will tell you how to make a bed with your own hands from various materials.

In order for the product to please and be able to use it for a long time, you need to approach the matter very responsibly, realizing the limits of your capabilities. It is necessary to select a suitable model and, taking into account the material used, prepare the tool.

Required tools

Depending on what material is selected, certain tools will be required to work with it.

For working with metal

• Electric welding machine.
• Bulgarian.
• File.
• Metal brush.
• Electric drill.
• Roulette.

For working with wood

• Electric jigsaw. If the product is made of boards, you can get by with a hacksaw for wood.
• Screwdriver.
• Electric drill.
• Roulette.
• Construction corner.
• Pencil.
• Plane.
• Chisel.
• Grinder.

As for consumables, we will talk about this separately, considering this or that model.

Material selection

Materials for making the bed:

1. Metal corner.
2. Profile or round pipe.
3. Solid wood.
4. Plywood.

The above materials can be used both individually and in combination. So, a metal bed can be equipped with wooden backs, and a plywood product is assembled on a timber frame. There can be many options, and you can figure it out in more detail by reading the article.

Location

The first step is to clearly determine what the dimensions of the future bed will be, taking into account its location. It is possible that you are modernizing the bedroom, changing its design, then you can move away from the usual patterns of placing the bed and find a new place for it. If so, check out a number of tips to help you do this.

• Do not install the bed with the headboard to the window opening, as there will be a draft when the window is open, and the head can be blown out.
• If you place the bed with the headboard to the doorway, then you will not be able to see the one who enters the bedroom.
• Better that there is no chandelier hanging over the bed. She can break off and fall on a person lying in bed.
• In non-insulated houses, the outer walls are very cold, so it is better not to put the bed in such places.
• A shelf that is not securely nailed to the wall above your head can cause a lot of trouble too.
• In a narrow bedroom, the bed located in the center of the room will not allow you to move freely. In addition, this arrangement can cause discomfort.
• Many people leave room for a laptop at the headboard. Note that this "thief of time" will deprive you in this case of many hours of good rest.

You might get the impression that there is absolutely no room for a bed in the bedroom, but this is not the case. We just gave recommendations, and you yourself decide how relevant they are in your case.

Wood bed

Don't be fooled by the seeming simplicity of the design. We need to tune in to the fact that it will take a lot of work to make a bed from solid wood. If you are determined, then there is every chance to do something original, while saving money. It is quite natural that it is not easy to immediately decide on the design of the bed, so first, look at a few photos of wood products.

Photo of wooden beds

Having chosen the product you like, you can find a similar drawing on the Internet or draw it yourself, taking into account the dimensions of the room and personal preferences. Often, home craftsmen take the drawing of the bed and redo it for themselves, deleting or adding something.

From an array

If you are not going to sleep on boards, then when planning the size of the bed, you need to take into account the dimensions of the mattress. If it has not yet been purchased, then you need to take care of this in advance or find out the standard sizes on the selling sites and start from this data. If you are planning to make a bed of non-standard sizes, it is important to know that the mattress will have to be made to order.

A custom-made mattress will cost a little more.

It is clear that in a relatively short article it will not be possible to describe the manufacture of several wooden beds, and we do not strive for this. Based on the given example, it will be possible to understand how to assemble a bed from an array.

Let's consider an example of making a wooden bed for a 200 × 160 cm mattress, if there are a minimum of tools - only the most necessary ones.

The actual dimensions of the mattress often differ from those declared by the manufacturer, and in a smaller direction. Having purchased a mattress, measure it, and then adjust the dimensions of the bed to be made to it.

If there is no drawing with a bed suitable for the size of the mattress, then you can take any one you like as a basis, remaking it to fit your size. If the design is very simple, then you can draw a sketch yourself.

Let's say that after checking the dimensions of the mattress, it turned out that its length and width are one centimeter less than the declared ones - 199 × 159 cm. You will need the following material:

• Beam 50 × 40 mm, length 209 cm - 19 pcs.
• Planed board 22 × 100 mm, 159.5 cm long - 18 pcs.
• PVA glue (furniture).
• Self-tapping screws 41 and 65 mm.

Having a clear idea of ​​the quantity and size of the required material, you can go to the store for it.

Making a frame

The frame can be assembled on the floor or on four stools.

So, we need to make a rectangle with internal dimensions of 200 × 160 cm, which corresponds to the dimensions of the mattress + 1 cm of tolerance. Each side of the frame will consist of three beams assembled into a single structure.

• Of 19 pcs. of the purchased timber 40 × 50 mm, you need to choose 4 pcs. smoothest and with the least amount of knots.
• For further work, you need to cut off the excess at a right angle. With sufficient skills, you can mark the timber, and then, using the building corner, draw a cutting line. If you cannot cut straight with a hacksaw along the line, then it is better to use a miter box.
• You should get 2 bars of 160 cm and 2 bars of 208 cm (internal size of the bed length 200 cm + 2 bars of 4 cm).
• The cleanest side of the blocks will be used as the front (top of the bed), so we will lay the blocks down with this side.
• You will need 4 more bars with the same dimensions. You also need to cut off 2 bars of 200 cm each, and 2 bars of 168 cm each (the inner size of the bed width is 160 cm + 2 bars of 4 cm).
• In order for the frame to be strong, the corner joints must be overlapped, therefore, for the second row, bars of a different size are used, which we sawed out last.
• Glue is applied to the bars of the first layer, and then the bars of the second row are laid and attracted with self-tapping screws. Excess glue must be removed immediately, otherwise it will interfere with the work on sanding the surface later.
• Now the bars of the third row are attached in the same way.

• Check that the corners of the bed are collected at a 90˚ angle. To do this, we will measure the dimensions of the assembled frame along the diagonals - they must be the same.
• After the glue has dried, you can continue working.
• Since our mattress is 159 cm wide, this size is quite large - the boards we use can bend. To eliminate this, in the center of the bed, from one back to the other, from below, you need to make a stiffener. To make it, you will need 2 bars 2 m long each. They are also fastened together and installed in the same plane with the bottom of the bed. This can be clearly seen in the photo.

The bed being made has 4 legs located in the corners, but for safety reasons, you can set the fifth fulcrum in the center - then the base will definitely not bend.

• The legs will be made of two 40 × 50 mm bars, fastened to each other. Their height is selected according to the preference of the owner so that they will be attached to the lower two bars.
• After gluing and securing the legs with self-tapping screws, wait until the glue dries, and only then turn the bed over to the position in which it will now constantly be.

• To make the base for the mattress along the sides of the bed frame, you need to fix the remaining 50 × 40 mm beam (or existing trimmings), since the boards will be attached to it. The bottom edge of the upper beam of the frame will serve as a reference point.
• The width of the inner part of our product is 160 cm, therefore, in order to avoid the appearance of the board squeak, you can make 5 millimeters shorter - 159.5 cm (or slightly less).

• Having sanded the boards, you need to lay them on the frame in such a way that they do not touch the sides of the walls of the frame, and fix them.
• Since the self-tapping screws will be screwed in from the edge of the board, it will be necessary to drill holes in each board under them, using a thin drill for this.
• As for the distance between the boards, we find it empirically. In our case, the length of the inner part of the bed is 200 cm. We will retreat from the edges by 5 mm. There are 199 cm left. Divide by 16 (the number of boards). 199/16 = 12.44 cm

• If you need to get a greater distance between the boards, then you need to reduce their number and re-perform the calculations according to the scheme we have given.
• Now you need to sand the entire structure. To do this, it is better to take the bed out of the room, as there will be a lot of dust.
• It is convenient to use a grinder or a drill with a nozzle on which an emery cloth is attached. After mechanized processing, you need to complete the process by hand using a fine-grained emery cloth.

• The bed must be primed and varnished in several steps, each layer is applied after the previous layer has dried. The job is best done with a spray gun. As a last resort, you can use a brush, but it is important to understand that the appearance of the applied coating will not be the same as when using a spray gun.

You may have noticed that we have 3 more boards left. We will make a back from them, as in the photo.

The height of the backrest is 45 cm, and the width is 170 cm, but this is not important, since it will not be one with the bed - we will fix it on the wall at the level with the mattress.

Its manufacture is not at all difficult. Three boards are sawn off at 170 cm each.Of the scraps, we make 11 boards of 45 cm each.If there are not enough boards of 45 cm each, then through one board you can screw 2 boards of 40‒42 cm. Just like the beds, the back must be given a presentable look by varnishing it.

The backrest can be hung on hooks, only in this case it will knock on the wall. More practical is to fix the backrest firmly to the wall. Now the wooden bed can be used.

Video: making a wooden bed

Chipboard bed: step by step instructions

Manufacturing structures from chipboard can seem very difficult due to the nature of this material. If you cut, grind and glue the edge at home, then some difficulties arise, especially with the cutting of chipboard, since the decorative layer can be damaged. Many problems can be avoided by making a drawing in advance and ordering the production of parts in a furniture workshop. The only thing left to do at home is to assemble the structure.

This time we will look at the process of making a small single bed with two drawers. Here is an example of cutting a standard chipboard sheet for one bed.

From the remains of the stove, you can make shelves for books or something else that is needed on the farm.

So, we have a ready-made set of parts that need to be assembled to make a bed.

To get the job done, you need the following tool:

• screwdriver;
• drill (you can use a screwdriver instead);
• jigsaw;
• confirmation drill;
• bit extender;
• bits (cross and hex);
• mallet;
• pencil;
• ruler;
• awl;
• roulette.

You will also need consumables:

• Confirmates - 50 pcs.
• Stickers or plugs for confirms - 50 pcs.
• Self-tapping screws 3.8 × 45 mm - 15 pcs.
• Self-tapping screws 3.5 × 30 mm - 30 pcs.
• Self-tapping screws 3.5 × 16 mm - 40 pcs.
• Furniture corner - 12 pcs.
• Linear roller - 8 pcs.
• Wide furniture handles - 2 pcs.
• Plastic legs - 12 pcs.
• Bar 20 × 45 mm (3 m) - 3 pcs.

Now let's start assembling.

Since the mattress will be 200 × 70 cm, we will fit the existing slats to the width of the mattress, making them 70 cm long. As a result, there will be 12 of them.

On ten slats on one side, you need to fix the corners.

First, we will make boxes that can be pushed under the bed. The first step is to assemble the frame. To do this, we will lay out the workpieces so that the part pasted over with the edge is at the top. When assembling, it is important not to mix up the sides. Well, if the edge is not glued to the end of the inner part, then you will not mix it up. If the edges of the parts are pasted over in a circle (which is wrong), then you need to try to fold the box without twisting it, and then attach the bottom. After making sure everything matches, you can start assembling.

Having departed from the lower (or upper) edge of about 3 cm, you need to drill a hole with a confirmation drill. This must be done carefully, since one awkward movement - the part will be damaged. The thickness of the chipboard is 16 mm, so we retreat 8 mm from the edge of the workpiece, drill a hole slightly with cores and without the slightest deviation.

If you have never assembled furniture from chipboard, then first practice on unused leftovers of the sheet.

By connecting the parts, we get such a box.

In order to fasten the bottom, eight confirmations are enough - 2 on each side. These boxes are not designed to hold very heavy items, because the plastic rollers are not designed for this.

It remains to attach the handle and install the rollers. One box is ready, now the second is being assembled in the same sequence.

Putting the finished boxes aside, let's start assembling the bed. Since boxes will be installed on one side, you need to put together 3 parts, using 3 confirmations on each side.

As a result, we will have such a "bench".

Now we will assemble a decorative box, thanks to which the mattress will be fixed. This part is not as high as the base of the bed, so 2 confirmations will be used on each side.

We put the resulting frame on the bed frame so that it does not interfere with the pull-out of the drawers, and we connect them together from the inside with self-tapping screws 3.5 × 30 mm.

You need to nail down the plastic legs.

Let's start making ribbing. On the front of the frame, draw a line from one edge to the other along the height of the bed frame. Now we will fix the bars with the corners screwed to them every 13 cm, so that their lower part is set along the line.

Instead of ribbing from boards, you can use a cut-to-size chipboard slab.

After that, it will remain with 30 mm self-tapping screws to screw the bars to the opposite sidewall.

Once you roll up the drawers and put the mattress down, you can start using the bed.

As you can see, with the right approach, it will not be difficult to assemble a bed from chipboard at home. The design can be of any size, as in the following video.

Video: we make a double bed podium from chipboard

Pallet bed

Nowadays, beds made from pallets are in vogue. At first glance, it may seem that this kind of design would be appropriate only in some provincial dacha, but this is not the case, because pallet beds can also be found in houses with a fairly rich environment.

Let's move on from words to deeds. Consider one of the options for assembling a bed from pallets. How many will you need? It all depends on the size and design of the manufactured product. So, a single bed with legs can be made from 2 pallets, and without legs - from 4. We used 8 pallets to make our double bed.

If there is such an opportunity, then you need to choose as much as possible whole pallets. They need to be sanded.

All pallets should be painted using non-toxic wood paint. Since wood is very hygroscopic, most likely, the pallets will need to be opened with paint 2-3 times.

If there is such a desire, then you can open the blanks with varnish.

Having laid the first row of pallets, it is necessary to fasten them together. If the wood is very strong, then holes are drilled under the screws.

Then the second row is laid.

All pallets are fastened together with metal plates, fixed with self-tapping screws for wood.

Thanks to this simple technology, you can make a pretty decent bed from pallets.

The backrest can also be made of pallets.

From the remnants of pallets, you can collect some kind of furniture, and install it near the bed. In general - who likes what.

Plywood

You won't surprise anyone with a plywood product, but you can make furniture out of it at home. We will use sheets of the FSF brand, since not all plywood is suitable for making a bed.

Consider an example of making a bed for a box-spring mattress 1900 × 900 × 200 mm.

Materials for making a bed

The thickness of the plywood used can be 12, 15 or 18 mm. Thin sheets can be used when fastening plywood with screws. Of 18 mm plywood, the bed will be more durable, but very heavy, so it is preferable to use 15 mm sheets - they are much stronger than standard chipboard.

• Plywood 2.44 × 1.22 m - 1 sheet.
• Beam 30 × 40 mm - 2 pcs. 1.9 m each.
• Beam 30 × 40 mm - 7 pcs. 0.9 m each.
• If the edges of the parts need to be pasted over, then buy a PVC edge. Its consumption will be no more than 8 p / m.
• Moment glue - 1 tube.
• Screws 5 × 40 mm - 26 pcs.
• Screws 5 × 60 mm - 12 pcs.
• Screws 3 × 9 mm - 8 pcs.
• Foot pads - 4 pcs.

As for the tools, they are the same as for working with chipboard. Instead of screws, you can use wood screws.

The side wall of the back of the bed is large in height. This is done so that the drawers being pushed under the bed do not hit the walls. If there are no boxes, then the side walls can be made the same.

Making a bed

From the existing sheet of plywood, you need to cut out the parts corresponding to the drawing.

If desired, you can use film faced plywood. In this case, it is important to take into account that it is very difficult to cut such a sheet at home without damaging the laminated coating. In addition, then the edges will necessarily need to be pasted over with furniture edge.

To cut plywood, you need to use a file with a fine tooth, and lead the jigsaw slowly - this way we will get an even cut without chips. As a result, we should get parts of the following dimensions:

1. Front back - 932 × 650 mm.
2. Backrest - 932 × 500 mm.
3. Front side panel - 1900 × 200 mm.
4. Rear side panel - 1900 × 350 mm (if without cabinets, then we also make 1900 × 200 mm).

• The ends of all parts must be sanded. To do this, you can use a small wooden block wrapped with medium-grit emery cloth.
• After that we assemble the bed frame.

Base for the bed

• The backrests are attached to the side plates with 5 × 40 mm screws (2 for each front side, and 3 for the back).
• Then we fasten the timber to the side rails of the bed using screws 5 × 40 mm (7 pcs per side). The head of the screws should be slightly recessed into the timber. If you drive deeper, then the screw will go right through the plywood.
• We fix the crossbeams from the timber on the horizontal beams with self-tapping screws 5 × 60 mm (1 for each point).
• Using screws 5 × 40 mm, screw the bars to the backs from the inside (3 screws for each).
• At the last stage, we screw the thrust bearings from the bottom to the backs - 2 screws 3 × 9 mm each.
• We set up the bed, lay the mattress and use our product.

If you use a soft mattress instead of a spring mattress on the frame, then you need to cut the bottom out of plywood and screw it to the bars from above.

As you can see, there is nothing complicated in making a bed from plywood.

Made of metal

If you have some skills as a welder, you can make a metal bed. We will not even consider the option of a bolted connection, since such a product looses very quickly.

Look at the photo of a collapsible metal bunk bed. Agree that it looks very presentable.

For its manufacture, the following materials were needed:

• Profile pipe 50 × 25 mm - 8 m.
• Profile pipe 40 × 40 mm - 8 m.
• Profile pipe 20 × 20 mm (or 15 × 15) - 40 m.

In addition to pipes, a metal primer and hammer paint were purchased.

One of the advantages of such a bed is the absence of bent parts, so a pipe bender is not needed to make it.

If you buy pipes, and do not use those that have been in the garage for several years, then do not opt ​​for rusty ones, since then they will need to be cleaned for a long time.

Frame making

Since the bed is collapsible, you can make parts of it in parts. Let's start with the backs.

• The base will be pipes 40 × 40 mm. We cut them into equal parts of 2 m.If the ceilings are low, then they can be reduced to 185 cm.
• The width of our backs will be 90 cm, so we will cut off 8 identical pieces of 82 cm each (90- (4 + 4) = 82) from the 20 × 20 mm pipe, and 8 pipes of 30 cm each.
• For now, we will use only half of the prepared material.
• On a flat plane parallel to each other, you need to lay the rack pipes.
• Having retreated from the bottom 40 cm and from the edge 1 cm, a pipe with a length of 82 cm is grabbed.
• It is necessary to check the correctness of the set angles with a building corner.
• After 95 cm, the second pipe is caught.
• We return to the first one, and on the tacks we assemble the lattice - 2 pipes 30 cm each and a crossbar 82 cm.
• We do the same with the second lattice.
• After checking the angles and alignment of the stuck parts, they can be welded thoroughly.
• The second back is made in the same way.

Now let's start making shelves.

• We also cut the profile pipe 50 × 25 mm into 4 equal parts of 2 m each.
• The width of the shelves will be 88 cm, so we need 26 pieces of pipe 20 × 20 mm, 83 cm each (88- (2.5 + 2.5) = 83).
• 2 pipes are placed on the edge parallel to each other.
• Mark 13 cm from the edges and grab one jumper at a time, placing them along the bottom edge.
• We lay out the remaining 11 jumpers every 14 cm and grab them.
• After checking, the shelf is scalded, and the second is assembled in the same way.
• To the shelf that will be installed at the top, it is necessary to weld a fence of the same height as the height of the lattice on the back. The pipe used for the fence should be bent and not welded at an angle. If there is no pipe bender, then you can fill it with sand and bend it in a vice or between two supports. This pipe must be welded in the middle of the bed, as in the photo.

• In the same way, 3 more vertical posts are welded, but it will not weld to the back, so you need to weld a small bar from the end.

The time has come to put the structure together, for this we will use welding a little more.

Since our bed is collapsible, we will make universal fasteners for it.

• From a 20 × 20 mm pipe, you need to cut off 16 pieces of 10 cm each and weld to the backs at the joining point.
• Each attachment point uses 2 tubes. They are inserted into the grille tube and clipped to the backrest. If this is not done, then later it will not be possible to assemble the bed, since the attachment points will not coincide.
• After checking the correct location of the part, we thoroughly weld the tubes to the back.

• With the help of a grinder, it is necessary to process the welding seams.

Assembly

• Now let's put together the bed.
• In order for the collapsible parts to hold together securely, they will need to be secured with self-tapping screws (after final assembly).

It is also necessary to make a small ladder, the dimensions of which can be arbitrary.

• We attach it to the shelves with bolts and nuts.

• At the final stage of work, the entire structure is disassembled, degreased, primed and painted.
• Once the paint has dried, the bed can be brought into the house and reassembled.
• To close the ends of the pipes, specially designed plastic plugs are purchased for this.

If the bed is made for children, then its length can be significantly reduced.

As you can see, at home you can make a beautiful and durable metal bed.

Making decorative elements

If you want to do something original, then in the manufacture of a bed, instead of standard shaped pipes, you can use forging elements.

Such parts are sold in specialized stores or made to order. Good results can be achieved using bent parts, and you can bend them yourself.

Bed legs

A person may have the wrong opinion that the legs of a metal bed will look rough. If you set a goal, then this element can also be made very attractive.

Video: making a metal bed with forging elements

Choice of design

The wrong bed can cause a lot of inconvenience. Here are some tips from experts in the field:

1. It is best if the bed is made from natural materials. When using chipboard, plywood, laminate and other materials with synthetic additives (glue, etc.), the products must be certified for the manufacture of furniture.
2. The size of the bed matters a lot. A single bedroom can be 100, 90 or 80 cm wide, and a double bedroom can be 200, 180 and 160 cm wide. If there are no restrictions on the size of the room, then you need to act according to the principle - the more the better. The length of the bed should be 20 cm longer than the person's height (at least 10 cm).
3. Structures made of chipboard (and chipboard) are the most unreliable and fragile.
4. A solid bed base prevents the mattress from ventilating, but too little ribbing can cause the mattress to deform.

Since we are talking about a mattress, there are nuances of choice here.

1. The mattress should not be hard. It should be soft enough, but not deform too much under the weight of the person lying on it, so it must be selected individually. For a double bed, you can choose 2 mattresses of different elasticity. To make sure that the mattress is right for you, you need to lie on it for 15-20 minutes before buying.
2. If you have purchased a hard mattress, then you can put a thick mattress topper on it, for the manufacture of which latex or memoriform is used (3 to 10 cm thick). If you have not decided on the choice, then it is better to purchase a mattress with double-sided rigidity.

As for the design features of the bed, this is a matter of personal preference and convenience. In a small room, you can place a bed, under which there will be drawers, folding or sliding from the podium. In a large room, you can give free rein to imagination by making a wide bed.

Video: how to choose a bed in the bedroom

One-bed

A single bed is installed in cases where it is planned that only one person will sleep on it, be it a child or an adult. Also, 2 or more beds can be installed in one room, for example, for two children. Be that as it may, first you need to decide which design is suitable, and then start manufacturing. Photos of homemade single beds can help with this.

Photo of single beds

Double

As a rule, married couples sleep together (at least for the first few years), and in order for this bed to be comfortable to sleep, you need to take care of its size and design. See a photo exhibition of double products.

Photo of double beds

Bunk bed

Usually a double bed is made for children. It can be either a simple bed or a fairytale castle in which the child will be happy to fall asleep. Choosing the design of this kind of baby bed, you need to think about both convenience and design.

Video: designing a baby bed

Photos of bunk beds

Drawings and diagrams: bed assembly

Author: I have long thought to build a so-called wardrobe bed. During the day - a seemingly ordinary wardrobe, at night - a full-fledged sleeping bed. The idea was facilitated by the prospect of saving square meters in my two-room apartment, and my hands were scratching for a long time after office work with a drill and a screwdriver. Physical work was preceded by mental work: sketches, drawings were drawn, dimensions were verified. And so, after the final sketch of the bed and the choice of colors were approved at the family council, the corresponding details for the future bed were ordered from the company engaged in cutting laminated chipboard.
1. A start has been made.

2. The bed itself was based on an orthopedic base and a mattress from the bed used at that time with a sleeping place of 180 X 200 cm.

3. Remove the so-called lamellas - strips of birch plywood with a curved arc.

4. Thinking that few furniture legs can adequately support the weight of the future bed, it was decided to install the base of the cabinet on two bars 40 X 50 mm.

5. We mark the seats for the cabinet sides.

6. We join the base of the cabinet with its side panels.

7. Fasten the top panel.

8. The "skeleton" of the cabinet is ready.

9. We attach the "skeleton" to the main wall of the apartment.

10. Special attention is paid to this "tool". All work was carried out in the apartment, there were a lot of shavings. Therefore, it was taken as a rule: I drilled a hole - immediately clean up after you.

11. We proceed to the installation of the bed frame using the bed lifting mechanism and gas springs.

12. An important node of the bed - in this place the greatest loads.

13. Connecting ...

14. Connecting ...

15. Strengthening ...

How to make an invisible bed with your own hands?

Due to the banal lack of space, not everyone can afford such a luxury as a double bed, which occupies almost half of the bedroom. However, a way out has been found - recently appeared beds - transformers. These beds allow you to free up space in the daytime and have a good night's rest. After all, during the day we do not need it at all. And there are such opportunities. Put away, for example, the bed in the closet! The invisible bed. We do it OWN HANDS!

From the Author: I have long thought to build a so-called wardrobe bed. During the day - a seemingly ordinary wardrobe, at night - a full-fledged sleeping bed. The idea was facilitated by the prospect of saving square meters in my two-room apartment, and my hands were scratching for a long time after office work with a drill and a screwdriver. Physical work was preceded by mental work: sketches, drawings were drawn, dimensions were verified. And so, after the final sketch of the bed and the choice of colors were approved at the family council, the corresponding details for the future bed were ordered from the company engaged in cutting laminated chipboard.
1. A start has been made.

2. The bed itself was based on an orthopedic base and a mattress from the bed used at that time with a sleeping place of 180 X 200 cm.

3. Remove the so-called lamellas - strips of birch plywood with a curved arc.

4. Thinking that few furniture legs can adequately support the weight of the future bed, it was decided to install the base of the cabinet on two bars 40 X 50 mm.

5. We mark the seats for the cabinet sides.

6. We join the base of the cabinet with its side panels.

7. Fasten the top panel.

8. The "skeleton" of the cabinet is ready.

9. We attach the "skeleton" to the main wall of the apartment.

10. Special attention is paid to this "tool". All work was carried out in the apartment, there were a lot of shavings. Therefore, it was taken as a rule: I drilled a hole - immediately clean up after you.

11. We proceed to the installation of the bed frame using the bed lifting mechanism and gas springs.

12. An important node of the bed - in this place the greatest loads.

13. Connecting ...

14. Connecting ...

15. Strengthening ...

The problem with most modern families is the lack of living space. In small rooms, it is necessary to place the set of furniture necessary for life, and few people think that making a folding bed instead of the usual sofa can significantly save space and increase sleep comfort.

Of course, you can go to the nearest furniture store, but why spend money on something that you can easily collect yourself? A do-it-yourself folding bed is made without any special difficulties, it is enough just to have some experience with tools, and components and accessories are sold in construction markets and in specialized stores in large quantities.

Of course, Copperfield is a master at performing tricks, but he is not alone in making large objects disappear. Each owner can feel like a magician and sorcerer by making a folding bed.

First of all, you need to decide on the type of construction. The bed can be vertical or horizontal. The first design is better suited for adults who need more room to sleep comfortably. During the day, it can be masked in a niche or in a special closet. The second design is well suited for children, since it is easier to prepare for sleeping and can take up very little space along the wall while the child is small. Such beds are most often disguised as a shelf, chest of drawers or soft upholstery, on which it is convenient to lean with your back when playing on the floor.

Do you need a bed like this

Like any other piece of furniture, a folding bed has its positive and negative sides. The advantages of the design include: saving space, effort and time of the hostess (in the assembled state, the upholstery collects less dust) and aesthetics (a bulky sleeping place in assembled form is disguised as a wardrobe or chest of drawers).

The disadvantages include the fact that the bed is difficult to move to another place. The fittings securely fix the box to the wall or floor. It also takes some time and effort to make.

Structural elements

The most important element of any bed is the mattress. It is in order not to torment the back with uncomfortable sofas that they most often start the construction of folding beds. Making a good mattress with your own hands is an impossible task. This element will have to be bought, and it is best to order the orthopedic option from a good manufacturer. It is not worth saving on a mattress, since efficiency and health depend on a comfortable sleep.

The mattress bed is an item that should be suitable for your height and weight. The fittings must also be matched to the load.

An important element is the folding mechanism. The safety of use and efforts during the assembly and disassembly of the berth depend on its quality. There are several types of folding mechanisms:

• spring;
• mechanical;
• mechanism on gas shock absorbers.

Folding bed making process

Step number 1. Making the box

Depending on the type of construction chosen, a box is made for masking the frame. For this, a strong concrete wall should be chosen; no partitions are suitable for such purposes. For the manufacture of the box, chipboard sheets are suitable, for vertical walls - 2.5 cm thick, the horizontal wall can be thinner - 1.5-2 cm thick.

When making the drawings of the box, it is necessary to take into account not only the dimensions of the bed, but also the height of the mattress and the thickness of the back.

Step # 2. Frame fabrication

To make the frame, you will need two side boards, a set of lamellas or chipboard sheets for a flat sleeping surface of the headboard. You can fasten the mattress to the bed with strong straps, the rest of the parts are fastened with mounting corners. The frame fittings are sold in specialized stores. A sample list of frame parts looks like this:

• longitudinal beams of the required length with a thickness and height of 50 mm - 2 pcs.;
• cross bars - 2 pcs.;
• chipboard strips for side walls - 2 pcs.;
• chipboard strips for transverse walls - 2 pcs.;
• legs - 2 pcs.;
• stop for the axis of rotation.

Necessary accessories - dowels, screws, bolts, washers and nuts, aluminum tubes. The use of dowels requires exactly matching drilling of various parts, so sometimes other fittings are used instead of them - metal corners for fastening. A set of these simple devices will allow you to make a high-quality folding bed frame. For stability, the legs are connected by a metal bar, both horizontal and vertical design benefits from this.