Of course, every apartment owner wants his house to be cozy and beautiful, so take care of your home as much as possible, constantly improving it, surprising your guests with unusual design solutions. One of which may well be a single-level plasterboard ceiling with lighting.

Many people also embody their ideas by arranging furniture, others decorate the walls, and real change lovers prefer the plasterboard ceiling with lighting for their living room or bedroom. Backlit structures can be multi-level, single-level, suspended, as well as two-level tensioned.

Let's take a look at the advantages over the other ceilings that backlit plasterboard structures have:

• The combination of light, various forms of material and ceiling allows you to create a unique combination of beauty, sensuality and functionality.
• Plasterboard is the easiest material to install on the ceiling and easy to use in ready-made structures. You can also install the backlight yourself.
• In any case, the surface of the ceiling will have an ideal flat surface, due to the structural features of the gypsum plasterboard.
• Gypsum and cardboard are environmentally friendly and safe materials that are not subject to rapid combustion.

Not only are these four advantages that make a single-level plasterboard ceiling stand out over other ceilings, there are other benefits that you will feel over time.

Design features

Despite the brightness and effectiveness of this design, the installation of plasterboard ceiling lighting is very simple, you can do it yourself, including if you do not have the skills to work with electrical wiring and install drywall boards.

Plasterboard ceilings, which have lamps in their design, are divided into groups with open and hidden lighting. A ceiling with open lighting implies the presence of holes in the structure or a suspension to it for lighting. Ceiling with hidden lighting involves the placement of lamps in special niches equipped for this, located between the levels of the ceiling. In this way, the light reflects off the ceiling and creates a unique atmosphere.

If you decide to install a plasterboard ceiling, then it is important to decide in advance on the type of lighting installed and the type of construction.

For example, in a small room, you can install only a single-level ceiling, since a multi-level one will steal a lot of space, reducing the height of the room. In high and large rooms, you can implement unique design ideas, including installing a multi-level, illuminated ceiling with your own hands.

Types of backlights

When you have decided on the type of design and lighting, you can start choosing lamps. The most common is the installation of fluorescent and LED lamps, but there are many more types of lamps.


Here are the most popular types of backlights:

• Conventional lamps with incandescent lamps.
• LED lighting, such as RGB tape.
• Outdoor chandelier.
• Ceiling duralight.
• Fluorescent lamps.
• Neon lights.

Let's take a closer look at the types of lighting for single-level plasterboard ceilings.

LEDs

To create unique components as in the photo, you can use LED lamps, including in the form of RGB tape, in the ceiling structure. This type of light looks most impressive in ceilings with several levels. You can create a multifunctional system that will delight you every night and delight your guests.

The backlight can be designed in a wide range of colors, and a special wireless or wired controller is used to control it.

Such backlights have a lot of advantages: they do not heat up, consume very little electricity, and are very easy to place on the ceiling. There are also disadvantages: the illumination level is very low and additional lighting sources are needed, changes in the wiring system are necessary and it is important to install a voltage-reducing transformer.

Light fixtures

The most common are conventional recessed spotlights. In order to build such a lamp into a plasterboard ceiling, you need to make a markup in advance, and then the necessary holes are cut out for the lamps.

The number of such lamps is determined in different cases in different ways, it all depends on the type of room and the quality of other types of lighting in it.

The advantages of such lamps include modern design and very easy do-it-yourself installation. There are also disadvantages: low light, reworking of wiring, strong energy consumption when using incandescent lamps, which will not save your budget from electricity bills.

Chandelier

The easiest is to install a classic chandelier in a suspended ceiling, since in this case no reworking of the wiring is required. And all that is required of you is fixing the chandelier to the ceiling, having previously purchased it. Different combinations with lamps can be used here.

Of course, which lamps to use is purely your choice, but to save energy, energy saving is best.

There are not many advantages of a chandelier, but they have a lot of weight: quick and easy installation of the chandelier, high-quality lighting of the room. Disadvantages include a visual reduction in the height of the room and a strong emphasis in its design. The last drawback is very easy to turn into dignity if you implement a design in the baroque or romantic style.

Neon lights

Using plasterboard construction and neon lighting to it as in the photo, you can create very original shapes, with sharp and smooth contours. For greater effect, you can use the backlight in different colors.

Neon lamps can be placed both inside wall niches and along the perimeter of the ceiling. Installing neon lights is similar to installing an LED strip.

The advantages of such lighting include a huge selection of colors and the most modern design among competitors. Among the disadvantages is a very complicated installation.

Duralight

Duralight is called a tube, inside which lamps are installed. incandescent, located one after the other. Therefore, if one of the lamps fails, it is necessary to replace the whole section of the duralight.

In hardware stores, today you can find duralight not with incandescent lamps, but using LEDs. This will not only increase the brightness of the lighting, but also significantly reduce the level of energy consumption.

The advantage of such ceiling lighting is the very low cost, which puts it on a par with conventional chandeliers. Among the shortcomings, it should be noted that the duralight has low durability and reliability.

Installation of the ceiling frame

Before you start installing the lighting in the ceiling, it is necessary to install the plasterboard structure itself. In the case of subsequent installation of lamps, it is necessary to build a frame using a metal profile - it will create the necessary niches and space for lighting elements.

If you decide that a single-level ceiling is boring and not as original as a multi-level one, and the dimensions of the room are quite large, then you can install a plasterboard ceiling with two levels, so you can add more lighting elements and make the room as bright as possible.

Of course, you can install gypsum plasterboards on the ceiling yourself. But in order to save your time and effort, and in addition to avoid unpleasant mistakes that will be visually visible all your life on the ceiling, you should call a team of specialists. The master will not only help with the selection of the type of construction and types of lighting, but also carry out the installation of the entire system with high quality, starting from the first level of the ceiling and ending with the last light bulb.

Renovation of interiors in a residential building, in an office or in a city apartment today is carried out on the basis of new technologies, where the main focus is on modern materials. Among the finishing materials, one of the main places in the interior design is taken by gypsum plasterboards. This material is unique in its technological properties and universal in its application. Due to its high technological characteristics, gypsum board is actively used for finishing ceilings. The most common type of ceiling design is rightfully considered to be single-level plasterboard ceilings. This technology is simple and straightforward enough to do everything yourself.

How a beautiful plasterboard suspended ceiling is made, and what materials are used for this are the main aspects of this article. Having familiarized yourself in detail with all the subtleties and nuances of installation work, you can proceed directly to the implementation of the project.

What tasks does drywall used for finishing ceilings solve?

The use of drywall in ceiling finishing works is due to a number of reasons, each of which has a place in interior decoration. We often have to deal with the fact that there is an urgent need to level the existing ceiling surfaces. The condition of the ceilings is often far from being in perfect condition. We have to deal with technological and structural defects of the floors. Sometimes the old coating on the ceilings has already lost its attractiveness and relevance. There is an urgent need to quickly and with the least labor costs eliminate the existing shortcomings.

In addition, in the process of renovation, technological innovations appear in the apartment, which carry a certain load. The main intra-building communications pass under the ceilings. This is a ventilation system, and electrical wiring and communication lines. There is a natural desire to hide and disguise the main technological nodes and communications.

Finally, the finishing work today is mostly aimed at creating an interesting interior, so the desire to make the ceiling structure non-standard and original is quite justified. To create a visual zoning of the interior space, move away from the traditional central arrangement of lamps, and allow the installation of lamps for decorative lighting.

All of these problems can be solved in stages using old and proven technologies. However, today it is possible to cope with technical tasks of this kind simply and easily by constructing a single-level beautiful and original plasterboard ceiling. To get the desired result, it is enough to have an idea of ​​the technology for laying drywall on ceilings, consumables in the right amount and the necessary working tools.

On a note: in preparation for installation work, you will have to deal with gypsum boards of standard sizes. The sheets can be 2.5 - 4.8 m long and 1.2 m wide. The thickness of the sheets varies from 8 to 24 mm.

Before starting the installation work, you should make simple mathematical calculations, saving yourself from unnecessary costs. According to experts, it is recommended to use plasterboard 8-9 mm thick for interior finishing work with ceilings. For the kitchen and rooms with high humidity, a moisture-resistant material is taken, on which there is a corresponding GKLV marking.

Important! Try to purchase gypsum boards from well-known manufacturers and specialized points of sale. Low-quality drywall will not last long, causing a lot of trouble even during installation work.

Having figured out what material and how much it will be required to decorate the ceiling surfaces, you can start directly to work.

Preparation for the installation of single-level ceilings. Technical subtleties and nuances

If you know how to handle a screwdriver and a tape measure, have an idea of ​​how to work with a grinder, you can make single-level plasterboard ceilings yourself. Moreover, the quality is quite acceptable.

When planning such a reconstruction, you immediately resolve the issues facing you:

• level the ceiling to a perfectly level state;
• hide cords, cables and pipes;
• preparing the technological base for the installation of new lamps.

When working with drywall, you should adhere to certain requirements, technical subtleties and nuances. Despite this, working with drywall is a pleasure. A small dent on the front surface of the sheet can be easily removed during the subsequent puttying of the finished ceiling. The material is easy to cut and fits perfectly on the prepared frame. However, there are some limitations in this case. Single-level ceilings, built on the basis of a metal frame, significantly reduce the height of the premises.

Important! For small apartments, it is not recommended to lower the ceilings by more than 10 cm.As a rule, suspended single-level systems are designed to lower the height in the room by only 5-7 cm.

Another important aspect is the conditions in which the installation of the ceiling surface will be carried out. Ceilings should be dealt with after the walls have already been tidied up and the installation of window and door openings has been completed. Why? The thing is that during the subsequent installation of doors and windows, movements and shaking are possible, which can negatively affect the integrity of the plasterboard surface. Finished walls are a guideline for the subsequent installation of the frame and laying the cut pieces of gypsum board.

Upon completion of finishing work, a certain microclimate must be established inside the premises. Drywall is very sensitive to sudden changes in temperature and fluctuations in humidity. In the warm season, try to avoid drafts, but in winter, before starting work, it is better to stock up on a heater.

Installation of a single-level ceiling. Stages of work

Any installation work begins with a selection of tools. In order for everything to go smoothly and according to a knurled pattern, you will need:

• puncher;
• screwdriver;
• assembly knife;
• roulette;
• building level;
• sandpaper.

With this set, you can cope with the task yourself. From consumables, it is necessary to purchase a starting, longitudinal and bearing profile. Self-tapping screws, crabs and dowels are used as fastening equipment. Finishing work consists in filling the places where the sheets are fastened and in sealing the joints.

The first step is to install profiles

In order to build a single-level ceiling of excellent quality from plasterboard, beautiful and original with your own hands, all subsequent actions must be done in stages. Ceiling work begins in the prepared room with the installation of profiles. These elements of the future structure must be installed around the entire perimeter of the room, strictly observing the horizontal arrangement. Starting from the lowest section of the base ceiling surface, a control line is drawn using the level. This is the mark relative to which the profiles will be mounted in the future. We use galvanized CD profiles and UD starter profiles.

With the help of the grinder, fragments of profiles of certain sizes are cut and installed along the outlined line around the entire perimeter of the room. Dowels are used for the installation of metal profiles in concrete or brick walls. The step between the attachment points should not be more than 30-40 cm.

The second stage is the installation of hangers and guides

Having coped with the installation of guide profiles, you can proceed to the installation of suspensions. The marking of the ceiling in this case is carried out taking into account the location of the guide profiles. The quality of laying pieces of drywall depends on how the guides are installed.

Important! at each stage, try to check the level of the installed part with a level. All suspensions and guides must be in the same plane, without sudden changes in height.

The guides should be laid in such a way that when installing the gypsum board sheets, the bearing elements fall on the central part of the sheet and reach its edges.

Having made the markings, start installing the suspensions. It is necessary to fasten these structural elements to the rough ceiling surface only with dowels. Otherwise, with insufficient strength of the fasteners, the risk of collapse of the finished ceiling structure increases. The suspensions are not firmly fixed. There should be a slight backlash, which will allow in the future to freely attach the cut pieces of drywall to the guides.

After the hangers are fixed, mount the profiles. For this purpose, a certain distance must be observed. Longitudinal profiles are fixed at a distance of 40 cm from each other. The transverse profiles are already mounted at a distance of 60 cm from each other. When the installation of the frame is completed, you can proceed to intermediate technological work.

To fill the space between the ceilings, in order to increase sound and thermal insulation, mineral wool is usually laid.

Important! All wires and cables passing under the ceiling are recommended to be laid in special corrugated fireproof channels. Prepare the connectors at the luminaire connection points.

The third stage is the installation of drywall

It should be said that a correctly assembled frame is the key to the success of all work when equipping single-level plasterboard ceilings. The horizontality of the entire structure is one of the main conditions. If these requirements are not met, skewing may occur and, accordingly, the new ceiling surface may crack. This will be due to the fact that gypsum board does not tolerate dynamic stress very well.

Pieces of gypsum board cut to size are treated with a primer solution on both sides. This is done to increase the resistance of the entire array to external influences. The sheets are laid across the longitudinal profiles. Do not forget that a technological gap of 3-5 mm must be left near the wall. Installation always starts from the corner and the wall opposite to the entrance to the room. The gap between the ceiling and the walls is needed due to the fact that the new ceiling will definitely breathe, acclimatizing to new conditions.

On a note: self-tapping screws are used to fasten the gypsum board sheets. The fasteners are screwed into the plane of the sheet in such a way that the cap is recessed and does not protrude outward. The subsequent surface quality depends on this.

Fasten drywall sheets in 20mm increments. The minimum step is 15cm. The maximum permissible joint width between drywall pieces is 2.5 mm. The thinner the seam, the easier it is to putty in the future. When installing drywall, immediately make holes for lighting fixtures.

Conclusion

After finishing the installation of drywall on the frame, you get an almost finished new ceiling. Now no unevenness and defects are visible. All communications are successfully hidden, the ground has been prepared for the installation of lighting equipment. There are no particular difficulties in this work. The only thing that is required for the installation of single-level ceilings is the sequence of each stage and adherence to technology. Let's summarize. Plasterboard single-level ceilings are:

1. Always comfortable, fashionable and stylish;
2. A quick way to eliminate defects on ceilings, hide communications and equip a new type of lighting;
3. Strong and stable frame for the suspension system;
4. Convenient and understandable way of styling;
5. Practical, durable and easy-to-use ceiling surface.

The plasterboard ceiling was chosen due to the fact that the floor slabs were laid unevenly and there were 5-7 centimeters of height differences between them. This type of ceiling perfectly hides this drawback, moreover, it is beautiful and rather unpretentious in operation.

Installation of a plasterboard ceiling can be divided into three stages:

1. Installation of the frame of the future ceiling.
2. Sheathing of the frame with plasterboard.
3. Putty and painting of the new ceiling.

Before starting the installation of the frame, you need to calculate and purchase the required amount of materials, as well as prepare the necessary tools.

For the frame, we need the following materials:

• wedge anchor for attaching hangers to the ceiling, for each hanger there are two wedge anchors;
• straight suspensions - they are attached to the ceiling and hold the bearing profile;
• PP extension bars for profile. Necessary if you have to splicing bearing profiles together, when the profile is shorter than the required length;
• PP 60x27 profile is the main profile. We will attach drywall sheets to it;
• profile PN 28x27 - is attached to the walls along the perimeter of the future ceiling and holds the profiles on the walls;
• nail dowel - fixes the PN profile to the wall;
• crabs - for splicing the bearing and transverse profile;
• screws "klopiki" - for connecting all these parts into a single structure.

In addition, the following tools will be required: - a hammer, tape measure, pencil, chopping cord, puncher, screwdriver, winder drills, metal scissors and a level, preferably a laser.

Installing a horizontal profile

The installation of the frame begins with cleaning the ceiling and removing old coverings such as foam panels or wallpaper. The lagging putty must also be cleaned off so that it does not fall on the new ceiling in the future. Then we begin to mark the horizontal level of the future ceiling.

Attention!!! The place of attachment of the profile must be marked taking into account the electrical wiring laid in the wall! If, nevertheless, during work you damage the wire, you need to put a small junction box at the breakage site, and fasten the wires with reliable connectors.

After you have marked the place of passage of the wiring, according to the level, in the corners of the room we put marks of the future horizon of the ceiling, taking into account the fact that during the installation of the profile you will not damage the electrical wires in the wall. Then, with a chopping cord, we connect them together. Exactly horizontal straight lines are obtained, relative to which we attach PN profiles to the wall. The profile is applied to the wall, exactly above the line left by the chopping cord and the drill, a hole 3.5-4 cm deep is drilled through the profile, after which the dowel is driven into the wall through the profile with a hammer. The holes are drilled at a distance of 35 - 40 cm from each other. As a result, you should get a horizontal belt from the profile around the entire perimeter of the future ceiling.

We mount the supporting frame

Next, we mark the ceiling for the suspension mountings. It must be remembered that in this case, the drywall sheets are attached to the ceiling along the long wall of the room, and not across. For my room, I marked the ceiling as follows. I drew a center line in the center and from it on the right and left sides I drew parallel lines every 60 cm. As a result, 5 parallel lines were obtained, which in the future will be the center lines of the bearing profiles. On each line, stepping back 25 cm from the wall, after 50 cm, mark the places where the suspensions will be attached to the ceiling. After that, we drill holes for the dowels with a puncher and nail the suspensions to the ceiling.

A little advice- to improve sound insulation, a washer made of hard cardboard can be placed between the anchor and the hanger. This will reduce the transmission of sound from the concrete to the ceiling frame.

Now we begin to fix the bearing profile on the suspensions. To do this, we insert one end of the PP profile into the groove of the profile fixed on the wall and level, keeping exactly the horizontal position of the profile, fix it with screw screws to the suspensions

It is necessary to control the horizontal installation of the profile on all planes, including relatively parallel fixed profiles.

For ease of control, you can stretch the rope across the room, fixing it on the lower parts of the profiles installed on the walls. If you suddenly notice that the profile is bent, or is not secured correctly, unscrew the screws in the bending points and re-drill them taking into account the level.

The next step in creating a plasterboard ceiling will be the installation of transverse profiles. They are cut from the PP profile and connected to the load-bearing profiles using crabs and klopik screws

fastening the profiles together. The first transverse profiles are fixed at a distance of 15 cm from the wall, and then every 50 cm.

As a result, you should have a design like this.

We sheathe the frame with plasterboard

So, the frame is ready and now we begin to sheathe it with sheets of drywall.

The sheets are fastened along the bearing profiles in such a way that on one section of the profile, it would be possible to fix the edges of two parallel sheets of drywall. Sheets are stacked in a checkerboard pattern and are attached to the profiles with self-tapping screws for metal, embedding the caps in drywall by 1 mm.

A gap of about 5 mm is left between the sheets in order for the putty to hold securely in the seams.

Small areas can be sewn up with drywall scraps.

Putty the ceiling

After the entire ceiling is covered with plasterboard, all joints are primed and carefully leveled with a special joint putty. The caps of the self-tapping screws are also putty, but without soil, so that over time they do not start to rust.

After the seams are dry, the entire ceiling is primed and the first layer of plasterboard putty is applied. After the first layer has dried, the protruding fragments are removed on the ceiling with a spatula, and a second, thinner layer is applied, which evens out irregularities and fills in small recesses. After the second layer has dried, the ceiling is cleaned with a fine emery mesh and covered with water-based paint. Now your room has a new DIY plasterboard ceiling.

By substituting the dimensions of your ceiling in the online calculator, you can find out the amount of materials required to level the ceiling with plasterboard with a single-level metal frame device.

A suspended flow frame with single-level connectors is made in large rooms where it is necessary to achieve a minimum ceiling drop from the base ceiling of the room. Such a frame is attached to the base ceiling with straight hangers.

Suspended flow material with sibling connectors

For a suspended ceiling, the frame of which is made with a single-level connector, you will need the following material:

• Guide ceiling profiles PN28 / 27;
• Ceiling profiles PP 60/27;
• Single-level PP profile connectors ("crab");
• Direct suspensions;

• Fasteners for plasterboard works.

Stages of work on the installation of a false ceiling

We will divide the work on the installation of the ceiling into four stages:

1. Ceiling markings;
2. Frame installation;
3. Fastening drywall sheets to the frame;
4. Painting works.

Ceiling markings

First of all, you need to mark a line around the perimeter of the room for attaching the PN27 / 28 profile. For accurate marking, it is better to use a laser level. It can be replaced by a long building level or a water level - Spirit level.

In the marking of the ceiling, the distances from the walls to the points of attachment of direct suspensions and the distances from the walls to the main and load (bearing) profiles are important (see the photo below).

• The distance from the wall to the first main profile and between the axes of the main profiles must be at least 1170 mm. (The main profile is attached to a straight hanger).
• The distance from the walls to the first load profiles must be ≤100 mm.
• The distance between the axes of the load profiles must be 500 mm.

Now about the marking of the attachment points for the suspensions. The distance between the suspensions should be:

• With a single-layer ceiling (drywall in one layer) - 1100 mm;
• With a two-layer ceiling (drywall in two layers) - 650 mm.

Installation of the false ceiling frame

• Along the perimeter of the room, according to the markings made in advance, fix the PN27 / 28 profile. The step between fasteners (dowel-K) is 500 mm. There must be a soundproof tape between the wall and the profile. It is glued to the profile;
• Fix straight hangers on the ceiling (fastening with plastic dowels and screws);

• First, the main PP60 / 27 profiles are mounted. The profile is inserted into the guide profiles, then, strictly horizontally, is attached to the hangers. The profile is fixed to the hangers with metal-to-metal screws (LB or LN 19mm).

• After fixing the main profiles, load profiles are attached between them. Load profiles are essentially jumpers between the main profiles, attached to the main profiles using single-level connectors.

• The connection of the profiles is fixed with FN screws.

• Frame suspended flow with sibling connectors ready... We turn to fastening drywall sheets.

Fastening drywall sheets to the frame

Fastening drywall sheets to the frame is done with the sheets offset. The offset of the transverse joints should be around 600 mm. For fixing the sheets, TN screws are used.

Painting works

Painting work is standard.

• They are glued with a reinforcing paint net;
• Putty again;
• The heads of screws recessed by 1-2 mm are putty;
• The entire ceiling is putty 2-3-4 times.
• To improve the quality of puttying, you can glue the entire ceiling with a fine mesh painting net.

Today, there are many technologies for the manufacture of ceilings: they can be one- or two-level, with a different type and design of the frame, etc. The most common type is a single-level ceiling made of plasterboard sheets on a metal frame. If a ceiling of this type is compared with a ceiling, the frame of which is made of wooden beads, then the advantages of the former are obvious. The structure of galvanized steel is superior to wood in many respects.

This is obvious - because of its physical properties, metal is much more technologically advanced than wood. The use of a metal profile allows you to create things that you shouldn't even think about if wood is chosen as a working material. Due to the fact that the metal bends, the creation of semicircular structural elements is not difficult. A single-level plasterboard ceiling on a metal frame is much easier to mount, because the necessary fixture can be easily made from metal.

And because of the standard dimensions of the required parts, there are no problems with their mechanical connection. It is for this reason that metal parts do not take much time to fit. The noticeable disadvantages of metal structures include the increased complexity of processing technology, a greater number of typical fragments and frame parts, and worse heat and sound insulation in comparison with wood. A single-level plasterboard ceiling on a metal frame needs additional work, such as creating a heat-insulating layer, etc.

The most common frame construction for a plasterboard ceiling based on a metal profile is similar to the simplest single-level wooden structure. Only instead of bars, metal guides are used (most often from galvanized steel). This design is very simple, and is used for the case of a small space between a layer of drywall and the surface that this layer hides.

Single-level plasterboard ceiling on a metal frame - the main stages of installation

First, you should prepare the floor surface for work. At this stage, you need to clean it from dirt, and seal the depressions with a special putty. The second stage of work involves the implementation of markup. Usually, the markings are done using a regular, soft pencil. After completing the drawing of the lines of the position of all the necessary guides, you can proceed to the next stage. You will need the required number of dowel-nails for the installation of the ceiling sheathing made of a 28x27 mm PNP profile.

In the corners, in order for all the profiles to come together well, one should rest directly against the wall, and the second, which is adjacent to the first, should be cut off. You can do it differently: take a guide profile, bend it at the required angle and insert it into another profile. This option involves cutting the flanges of the profile, and additional fixation with self-tapping screws in order to make the profile bend stronger. Installation of the cladding on the load-bearing surface prepares the base for fastening the ceiling metal profiles. In addition, the sheathing profiles will automatically act as guides for the bearing parts of the future frame.

A single-level plasterboard ceiling on a metal frame, in addition to the cladding made along the borders of the ceiling in the room, requires in the process of its production and application of markings on the ceiling plane. Lines are drawn on the ceiling with a pencil, in exact accordance with which the ceiling guide profiles will be attached. Given the dimensions of the drywall sheets, it is necessary to draw lines in such a way as not to overshoot with the distance between the centers of the ceiling metal profiles. If this operation is performed anyhow, then the drywall sheets will not be able to be correctly placed on the profiles. It is advisable to attach one plasterboard sheet to 3 profiles at once in order to prevent it from sagging. Only in this case, a single-level plasterboard ceiling on a metal frame will have an impeccable appearance.

The fixing positions of the hangers must be marked in advance on the marking lines for the ceiling profiles. Positions are applied with a pencil every 30-35 cm. To connect all suspensions to the ceiling, you can use dowel-nails. Anchors will provide a more reliable connection.

Then you need to cut the ceiling metal profiles to give them the desired dimensions. The length should correspond to the length of the room where the single-level plasterboard ceiling is mounted on a metal frame, minus 2.5-4 mm. This will ensure easy entry of the ceiling metal profiles into the guides. It happens that the length of the room is so great that the length of the uncut profile is not enough. This difficulty can be circumvented by superimposing two metal profiles one on top of the other, or using a special extension cord. Docking points should be additionally secured with straight hangers.

After fixing the ends of the ceiling metal profile with self-tapping screws, you can start attaching them to straight hangers. This is done using a cordless drill. The fundamental point is the strictly perpendicular orientation of the drill relative to the working surface. If this rule is ignored, then the self-tapping screw will pop up all the time during drilling. The single-level plasterboard ceiling on a metal frame is almost ready. The next operation is the sheathing of the assembled metal frame with plasterboard sheets. But before that, you need to put a thermal insulation layer. After the metal frame is lined with drywall, the work can be considered finished.

Conclusion

A single-level plasterboard ceiling on a metal frame, although not difficult to work with, however, its installation is regulated by a number of rules and has some restrictions. Without knowledge of these rules, no professional civil engineer will get down to business. Therefore, a layman who decided to tackle a single-level plasterboard ceiling on a metal frame is strongly encouraged to familiarize himself with them.

1. Always do more safety margin

This means the following: the weight of any structural element is 10 kg, then the fastening must be done with the expectation of twice as much weight. For a load of 10 kg, buy a dowel-nails that can hold twenty-kilogram structures.

2. Use as few parts as possible

If this is done correctly, then such a mechanical system will be built in less time and much more reliable. If more parts are required to enhance strength, or the same number of parts, but designed for more powerful loads, choose the second option.

3. Use tools such as plumb bob and level as often as possible.

If most of the load-bearing elements of a single-level ceiling are oriented strictly along the level or plumb line, the strength of such a structure increases significantly. It is also worth working with the dimensions as carefully as possible - do the calculation of the dimensions at each stage several times, apply a tape measure before each important operation. By following these simple rules, you can work on a completely suitable and reliable single-level plasterboard ceiling on a metal frame on your own.