Brazier is an integral part of organizing field trips, recreation at the dacha and receiving guests in a country house. It has become a tradition for many families to gather at the table under the aromatic smell of a barbecue. However, more and more often men (and we know that it is they who prepare the best kebabs) not so much compete in the quality of meat preparation, as they boast of the functions and appearance of the technical "filling" of this process - the barbecue. Many are no longer so interested in buying a "leaky box with legs", but want to do something special. A brazier from a gas cylinder, although it seems, at first glance, to be ordinary scrap metal, copes with its tasks much more efficiently than any other industrial design. In this article, we will consider in detail all the stages of work related to the self-assembly of the finished product, including the preparation of cylinders, their marking and sawing, as well as provide useful tips for working with such homemade equipment.

When you look at such a work of art, you do not immediately understand that this multifunctional grill is made from recycled materials.

Advantages and disadvantages of a do-it-yourself barbecue

Gas cylinders are perfect for "transformation" into barbecues and, in general, into any construction related to heating. They are made of durable steel, come in standard sizes, and are easy to find in the country and in the garage, or buy literally at a bargain price.

Advantages of a barbecue from a cylinder:

• Versatile design... All models of gas cylinders are unified. There are not so many varieties that "something went wrong." Accordingly, it will not be difficult to find a couple of identical containers for creativity with a grinder in hand.
• Heat resistance... The metal will not burn out or deform even after prolonged contact with open fire.
• Multifunctionality... In such a grill, you can cook not only kebabs, but also bake vegetables, as well as smoke and fry.
• Security. Once cooked, you do not need to extinguish the coals with water. For these purposes, it will be enough just to close the brazier with a lid.
• Large volume. In such a homemade grill, you will feed not only yourself, but also a large company. Especially if you spend energy on welding a multifunctional unit.
• Availability. The main thing is that a welding machine and a grinder are at hand. This is an actual moment, because the price of a brazier from a gas cylinder, even taking into account the overpayment for some elements, will end up being lower than the cost of the purchased model.

One of the advantages of a homemade barbecue is the ability to create a mobile model, which, if you really want to, can neatly and unnoticed for guests along with snacks and you move to another part of the garden

For work, it is better to take a 50-liter cylinder. They have ideal dimensions for making a barbecue: its diameter is 30 cm, and its length is 85 cm.

There are not many disadvantages, but they are also worth mentioning:

• In winter, the metal will cool down very quickly, therefore, to invite friends to barbecue, you have to throw off for firewood. Since it will be much more difficult to maintain the desired temperature in the grill.
• Unsightly appearance... If you do not spend a certain amount of money on the purchase of special heat-resistant paint, very soon your grill will lose its presentation.
• Toxicity... Before using a barbecue from gas cylinders, you need to get rid of the remnants of rot and dirt that could accumulate on the inside of the cylinder for many years. Therefore, before starting all work, the cylinders are carefully opened, and all the parts are ignited on the fire and only then they begin to process, clean off the dirt.

How to prepare a drawing for making a barbecue with your own hands from a gas cylinder

Despite the fact that barbecues from gas cylinders are considered quite simple devices in their design, before resorting to any work, it is better to draw a drawing. The pros do this using special 3D programs. For beginners, simple drawings of a barbecue from a gas cylinder with typical dimensions are suitable.

Schemes for marking the main technological holes and the design of a standard barbecue, barbecue - barbecue, as well as a barbecue-smokehouse, made from gas cylinders

On the drawing of the brazier with your own hands from a gas cylinder, it is necessary to indicate the dimensions of each component, which will help to correctly and accurately make the markings, and, therefore, cut all the parts. Such calculations will help determine how much material is required for work, as well as understand in advance about the options for connecting different structural elements.

One of the main mistakes beginners make is that they forget to mark the space for the blower. That is why you should not refuse to create such a "hint" that will help you organize all stages of work correctly.

At this stage, it is important to decide whether your design will perform one function or combine several. For example, for a barbecue, you need to cut the lid additionally. And for a full-fledged smokehouse, not two, but as many as three cylinders are useful.

What tools and materials are needed to work

For work on cutting a cylinder, arm yourself with a gas cutter or a grinder. In the process of work, it is worth taking care of the availability of the following materials and tools:

1. Steel pipe with a diameter of 100 mm with a 90 ° elbow (for the chimney).
2. Angles for fastening elements and strengthening the structure.
3. Hinges - you can use elements designed for doors or furniture.
4. BBQ grill.
5. Rivets, bolts and other items.

Welding machine and grinder are the main tools when working with metal

What tools and accessories will be needed when working on creating a barbecue from a gas cylinder:

• welding machine;
• electric grinder;
• electric drill;
• drills designed for metal work;
• clamps with which you can fix metal components;
• metal ruler;
• electrodes with a diameter of 3-4 mm;
• cutting and cleaning discs for the grinder;
• scriber;
• core;
• adjustable and gas wrenches;
• set of wrenches.

How to make a brazier with your own hands from a gas cylinder - step by step instructions with a photo

Before proceeding with any manipulations with gas cylinders, it is necessary to free it from gas residues. Even in an empty container, a suspension of liquid hydrocarbons is almost always left, which, upon contact with air, can explode.

How to properly prepare a propane cylinder for the manufacture of a barbecue

Illustration	Description of action
	The first step is to remove the valve. First of all, you need to fix the balloon on the ground. To do this, "grab" it to the stop. Next, we fix the gas wrench.
	We increase the "traction" with the help of such a steel pipe, it plays the role of a lever. We do this very carefully.
	After the valve is open, we fill the container with water, maybe soapy, and leave our bottle for several days.

During this time, the water will have time to dissolve liquid hydrocarbons, fill the container again and drain it again. Our balloon is now safe. And you can start the next stage of work.

How to mark and open a gas cylinder

If we are talking about a standard 50 liter cylinder, in these designs the outer diameter of the container is 96 cm. This value should be divided into four parts. When carrying out these actions, you will receive a value of 24 cm. The marking should be done along the longitudinal seam. It is recommended to measure all distances from this line. This rule provides a straight line without distortions.

You will need to measure 24 cm from the seam on both sides and draw lines. The main thing is not to cut them around the entire circumference and leave a part sufficient for the device of the base of your barbecue.

Side seam marking option
After trimming "by marks" such blanks are obtained.

We process the edges as evenly as possible to ensure maximum sealing of the barbecue container

At the place where the valve was present, a pipe should be installed with the help of which the smoke will be removed.

Blanks for the future chimney

So that the heat in your barbecue spreads evenly and there are no leaks on it, you need to weld steel strip pads on the joints of the lid and the body.

This is how you can improve an ordinary cylinder with a pair of gratings, a grinder and metal corners.

If you have not welded a corner for skewers inside the cylinder, you can insert it into the sides of the barbecue.

To do this, you need to make slots with the help of a grinder. The ends of the skewer will be located in them.

How to make legs for a barbecue

The tall legs will also need additional support, which is provided by a welded corner. It should be placed on the outer perimeter. Attaching the legs can be the easiest and slightly extravagant.

For the manufacture of legs, corners or conventional welded pipe structures are often used, welded to the structure. The main thing is to ensure the stability of the barbecue.

How to weld covers and handles and assemble the entire structure

The lid is usually created during the first stage of a barbecue or barbecue. After processing the edges, it is almost the first element attached to the main structure. The most difficult moment is not so much to attach the hinges as to ensure a snug fit of the structure. Sometimes a thermometer is attached to the lid.

The hinges are welded at the beginning, but the handles are most often fixed after the final painting of the product. In order for the lid of the barbecue to open not completely, a piece of a 10 × 10 square must be welded onto the counterpart of the curtain, which is located on the cylinder itself.

Such limiters allow you to control the angle of the lid tilt and keep the hinge from breaking.

We mark the holes and slots for the skewers. We weld on the barbecue rail. Do not forget to decorate our "blower" a little.

It is better to provide holes in the base of the structure in advance. They will rid your grill of dust and dirt and remove excess moisture when it rains. Plus, the extra holes add extra traction.

How to paint a brazier

If you think that you can paint a brazier with ordinary paint, then you are very mistaken. Under the influence of high temperatures, the usual coating will turn into soot after the first heating. There are two obvious solutions. The first is to leave everything as it is, and the second is to spend a certain amount of banknotes on a special heat-resistant paint.

However, there is one very important thing to do before running for a brush and in the store for paint. Burn some wood in our grill. This is done in order to destroy the residual gas substances and degrease the structure.

It is better to burn the grill on the street or indoors, where it will be as safe as possible.

The surface of the barbecue can be covered with different materials:

This is how our grill began to look after painting

We add that the barbecue model discussed above is the base for many similar designs. Most craftsmen improve their homemade products with additional cylinders, thereby expanding the functionality of the device.

What else can be made from a gas cylinder - manufacturing nuances

On the basis of a gas cylinder, you can make dozens of variations of grills, barbecues and smokehouses. For convenience, we will briefly describe some of these devices:

1. Open grill from a gas cylinder... The simplest type of construction is from a gas cylinder. Even a schoolboy can make such a grill.

   How to make a smokehouse from a gas cylinder

   Consider some of the features of making a smokehouse from two cylinders.

   Illustration	Description of action
   	The base for a brazier-smokehouse with your own hands from a gas cylinder can be a stand for an old sewing machine or such a welded structure.
   	We think in advance about the options for fastening a retractable or folding table. The design can be different.
   	We prepare the cylinders following the instructions above. We cut each of them like simple barbecue braziers. Do-it-yourself smokehouse from a gas cylinder is best done according to drawings.
   	The only difference is that it is necessary to make a hole in the firebox for the "blower", which will allow you to control the process of smoldering coal. Which, in turn, will create the smoke necessary for smoking.
   	And so we did such a multifunctional smokehouse from a gas cylinder with our own hands.

   Do-it-yourself barbecue from a gas cylinder

   We examined in detail an example of making a barbecue woman from a gas cylinder with our own hands in this article. If you still have questions about how to make a barbecue grill yourself from a gas cylinder, watch this video:

   Do-it-yourself barbecue maker from a gas cylinder

   The role of a kebab maker can be played by any of the homemade products discussed in this review. Even an open grill will perfectly cope with this task. However, it should be remembered that most often such structures are not protected from either wind or rain.

   How to make a brazier-steam locomotive from a gas cylinder with your own hands

   This is one of the most difficult and most time-consuming tasks that true masters of working with metal set themselves.

   To create such a structure is beyond the power of a beginner. A "homemade product" of this type is capable of solving several problems at once: it is a brazier, a smokehouse, a grill, and a barbecue. Each compartment fulfills its task. Such barbecues have high performance due to the sealed design, there is practically no heat loss.

   If you decide to create a brazier-steam locomotive, then from this video you will learn how to cook a brazier from a gas cylinder.

   Features of using braziers assembled by hand

   Before deciding to create or purchase such a product, pay attention to some points:

   1. First of all, understand for yourself that any structure that works with fire is potentially life-threatening.
   2. Ask yourself in advance where the product will be stored during the cold season.
   3. Learn how the barbecue works and its features. Each structural element has its own purpose.
   4. Prepare all materials for work in advance.
   5. Do not leave small children unattended near a power tool, much less a cylinder.
   6. Consider the option of how to buy a brazier from a gas cylinder if you are not completely sure whether you can complete the work on your own.
   
   And it is quite possible that this summer your neighbors on the site will strive to take a selfie with such a work of art.

My name is Rostislav, I am 37 years old and I am a builder with twelve years of experience. Today we will talk with you about outdoor recreation. And nature, as you know, is friends, family and barbecue. To cook meat in nature, you can use all sorts of improvised means - bricks or sticks, or you can make a beautiful brazier from a gas cylinder for a barbecue with your own hands and surprise everyone. If such a grill is in the yard, it will immediately attract the attention of your guests and neighbors. Also, such a grill is compact enough to take it with you in the trunk of a car.

Making a brazier with your own hands will not take much time and labor, you just need to be able to use a grinder and a welding machine or ask a specialist. All photos and drawings of such a barbecue from a gas cylinder are attached.

So, what do we need for this:

Materials:

1. Gas cylinder.
2. Pipe, diameter 90mm. Length - 0.7m
3. Handles, 3 pcs.
4. Profile pipe, 30x30mm. Length - 4m
5. Corner, 40mm shelf. Length - 1m
6. Sheet metal, 2mm thick, 1m 2
7. Fungus on the pipe.
8. Awnings.
9. Priming. Enamel paint for metal.
10. Heat-resistant paint, use temperature up to 600 degrees.
11. Chain, length no more than 0.7m

Instruments:

1. Welding machine, electrodes.
2. Grinder, cutting discs and cleaning disc.
3. Roulette
4. Pencil.
5. Hacksaw for metal.
6. Drill, drill bit 4,8,10,12mm.
7. Gloves, goggles, welding mask.
8. Piece of chalk.
9. Clamping clamp.
10. Square.

So: let's get down to the robot.

To start the robots, we need an empty gas cylinder with a capacity of 50 liters. These cylinders were previously used in the private sector on the farm. It consists of three parts: a valve, a reservoir tank and a cylindrical support.

Marking a gas cylinder for a barbecue

A gas cylinder, even if it is empty, is VERY DANGEROUS, therefore it is strictly forbidden to use open fire near the cylinder, as well as cause mechanical damage. It could cost LIFE !!!

The fact is that the so-called gasoline is used in the admixture of natural gas, which is designed to distinguish the smell of gas. Gasoline, by itself, is the same flammable gas that is absorbed into the metal and even if the cylinder is empty for inspection, gasoline vapors are still present in it. Therefore, I repeat once again, you need to work with a gas cylinder very carefully, not neglecting safety rules.

Let's go back to our markup. If you look at the cylinder, you can see that a weld is running along its entire height. We take this seam as the first line of the beginning of our marking. If you take a tape measure and measure the circumference of the balloon ( circumference - this is the length of the outer or inner line of the circle.) it will be equal to 96 cm. From this line - the seam, using a tape measure, mark 24 cm in each direction.Above and below the balloon we put marks and draw a line with chalk. Then from this seam line we retreat 10 cm in each direction. and also draw a line with chalk - this is our line for the air supply holes.

Next stage: we determine where we will have the front side of the barbecue and add to the back line, which we marked, retreating 24 cm another 10 cm. This will be the cutting line. There are also welds at the bottom and top of the cylinder that go around the cylinder. The distance between them is standard 61 cm. We retreat from these seams 3 cm, put two points and draw a line. The fact is that in the middle of the cylinder along the circumferential seams there is a seam reinforcement tape and we need to not damage it.

Thus, we have drawn the lid of the future barbecue, the width of which will be 38 cm (96-24-24-10), and the length - 55 cm (61-3-3) as indicated in the drawing.

Preparing a barbecue cylinder for cutting

Before making the first cut, you need to protect yourself. To do this, you need to draw water into the cylinder. How it's done? Before starting the robot, you need to make sure that the cylinder is empty. To do this, open the shut-off valve, which is located in the upper part of the cylinder, and determine by ear whether there is no gas hissing. Then, in the same way, with the tap open, we turn it down with the tap so that all the available liquid from the inside flows out.

The shut-off valve is made of bronze alloy, and bronze is a very soft metal in processing. Therefore, we take a hand hacksaw for metal and at the bottom of the tap - where it is twisted into a cylinder, we cut off the tap completely. We have formed an inlet into which we can insert a watering can or a hose for filling with water. You need to understand that the water that will fill the cylinder will displace the air saturated with gasoline, therefore it is forbidden to smoke or use open or hidden fire during this operation !!!

The bottle must be completely filled with water. After that we make a cork. This is where a wine bottle cork or something like that can help. Having slightly suspended it, we hammer it tightly into the hole with a hammer. Then we put the balloon in a horizontal position and make a cut.

We make a barbecue cover

When starting cutting the cylinder, it must be borne in mind that water will flow with the through cut. Therefore, we remove the electrical wires as much as possible and it is better to cut on an inclined base, controlling the flow of water. Yes, I agree that the event is "wet", but this is the safest method for cutting a gas cylinder.

We make a cut with a grinder along our marked lines. They are marked in red on my diagram. The disc for the grinder must be chosen thicker, at least 1.6 mm. The width of the cut is compensated by the expansion of the metal when heated. It must be remembered that the metal on the cylinder "strains" during welding and may wedge the disc a little during cutting, so we use wedges. At the same time, we cut off the threaded connection for the shut-off valve cover. It is located on top of the balloon.

So, when the brazier cover is cut out of sheet metal, we cut out strips 3 cm wide, one meter long - three pieces, and weld along the perimeter of the cover so that the edge of the strip protrudes 1.5 cm beyond the edges of the cover. Using clamps, periodically pressing the strip against the lid. This will prevent the lid from falling into the middle of the barbecue. We also weld on the handle. We clean up the welding spots with a grinder and a cleaning disc. Having installed the cover on the cylinder, you need to center it and weld the curtains, having previously retreated the same dimensions from the edges of the cylinder.

On the side of the top of the gas cylinder, where we cut off the threaded connection, you can make a valve that will regulate the smoke output, that is, the degree of smokiness of the meat. We cut out three strips of 10 cm from sheet metal and bend the edge with pliers or in a vice so that approximately a corner is obtained and scald along the perimeter of the hole, observing the evenness of the dimensions. And from the same sheet metal we cut out the valve itself, making an allowance of no more than 1 cm so that there is a free play.

There is a cylindrical stand from the bottom of the gas cylinder, which we also cut off with the help of a grinder. It is welded with a bursting seam around the circumference of the cylinder.

Welding the legs

Legs or a stand can be welded from an improvised material, it can be made collapsible or stationary, with or without tables. You can even use a stand from an old sewing machine, but I did it with the most economical option.

We take a corner and cut off two blanks of 14 cm each, find a longitudinal welding seam on the cylinder, which we took as the reference line. We expose the cylinder on a horizontal platform or on a table, so that the seam is at the bottom and, placing a corner parallel to the platform, we weld it by retreating the conditional distance from the edge of the cylinder so that the center of the corner shelf coincides with the welding seam of the cylinder. We do the same from the second side. This is how we got the base for attaching the legs. And now we look if we need to make the legs not separate from the barbecue, then we simply cut a 30x30 pipe or a corner in length, which will be convenient for us for the height of the barbecue - about 50 to 70 centimeters. Next, we weld it to the corner on the cylinder.

And if we plan to make a collapsible structure, then we also cut the workpieces into legs, just do not weld them to the corner, but drill holes about 8 millimeters in the upper part of the leg and in the corner welded to the cylinder. Thus, we get a collapsible design: the cylinder is separated from the legs and can easily fit in the trunk of a car for going to a barbecue in nature. It should be noted that the legs must be mounted also observing the identity of the dimensions and diagonal of the structure. In the lower part of the legs, it is advisable to weld the supporting patches, having previously cut them out of sheet metal and placing the brazier on the legs on a flat platform. This is necessary so that the brazier does not fall into the ground under its own weight and has good resistance to overturning. For more convenient transportability, you can mount small wheels on two legs.

Installation of a chimney for a barbecue

The chimney is not an obligatory element of our homemade barbecue, but it gives a more aesthetic look and works as a regulator of the degree of smoke of the prepared product.

A pipe with an outer diameter of 90m is quite suitable for the manufacture of this element. and 70cm long. Since the factory corners have a very smooth turn, an acute angle can be welded by yourself, having previously cut out a segment of the pipe, which is marked from the pivot point with a square in two directions at 45 degrees around the circumference of the pipe. Cutting out a segment with a grinder, bend the smaller part to the larger one, use the angle to check the angle of 90 degrees and weld them in place. After that, we expose the pipe to the welding place, where we installed the damper, and weld the pipe well in a circle. It should be noted that each seam must be cleaned with a cleaning disc. Thus, it acquires a more aesthetic appearance and the quality of the welded seam is clearly visible.

When the pipe is welded, install the protective cap. It is fixed with a clamping bolt.

Places for skewers and barbecue grills

For a comfortable positioning of skewers on the back wall of our barbecue, we drill holes. The skewer has a pointed part in front, which clearly enters these holes and stays firmly there. As we can see in the photo above, six skewers are conveniently placed on the grill. To do this, we make a markup, stepping back from the upper edge of our barbecue lid cut, 10cm. down on both sides, mark and draw a line with chalk. This is the level of the holes. Then retreating from the edge of the radius cut 4cm. and mark the drilling. And then every 10cm we put the same marks. Using a drill and a drill, we drill holes according to the marks. To do this, we first use a thin drill, for example, 4mm, and then ream with a 10mm drill, and at the end we knock off the chamfers of the hole with a 12mm drill. or with a round file. On the front side of the barbecue, we also make markings on the upper edge of the barbecue and cut out the grooves for the skewer with a grinder. When this operation is completed, cover the brazier with a lid and transfer the marks of the places where the cut was made to the brazier cover. We also make a clipping. This must be done so that with the skewers installed, the barbecue lid closes more tightly.

You can also make seats for a grill - a grid. To do this, we just need to weld metal shelves between the holes for the skewer. We cut out blanks 3 cm long from the corner, and weld them to the walls of the barbecue, having previously marked the welding places so that the mesh has six points of support along the perimeter of the barbecue. We clean the welds and cut off sharp corners.

To cook meat on a grill mesh, you can use a stainless steel mesh with a cell of 10x10, or 15x15mm, having previously cut out to the size of the perimeter of the seats as in the photo below.

Air holes

In chapter "Markup" we marked the line for the air supply. This line is 10cm from the longitudinal weld on both sides. Then we take a drill with a diameter of 8mm. and we drill these holes. I believe that the diameter of the hole 8mm is quite enough for air supply, since a larger diameter can affect the precipitation of burning coals during the burning of heat in the brazier. These holes can be drilled both at the beginning of our brazier assembly and at the end of the work.

You can also add handles on the sides of the barbecue - for ease of movement around the territory.

Barbecue painting

Braziers are used outdoors. Therefore, after installing the device, we immediately decide with what paint to paint the brazier.

The coating will protect it from atmospheric precipitation, high humidity and temperature changes. Of course, the brazier should be painted only outside. Inside it, during use, the temperature is too high for any type of paint.

The choice of coverage must be approached very carefully.

It must meet the following requirements

1. The paint should contain modifiers that protect the metal from rust. The finish should not melt, i.e., it should not have high refractoriness. The instruction on the label of the paint must indicate its heat resistance of at least + 500 °. It is even better if this figure is + 800 °.
2. It should be borne in mind that barbecues are used for cooking. Based on this, the coating must be environmentally friendly and safe. It should not react with any substances.

There are two types of paints on the market: spray paint and liquid paint.

Spray paint is sold in a can, in which there is air pressure and when painting, we simply direct the jet of the can onto the surface to be painted at a distance of 20 - 30 cm. And liquid paint in a can is applied with an ordinary paint brush.

First, you need to clean our brazier from dirt and dust, check the cleaning of all welding seams, and most importantly: clean the brazier and brazier cover from old paint. The fact is that gas cylinders are not painted with heat-resistant paint, but application with heat-resistant paint on non-heat-resistant paint, threatens with subsequent melting and fading of the lower layer of paint, which will entail unpleasant consequences.

You also need to take into account that only the brazier itself, the area of ​​which is not more than 1.5 m2, can be painted with heat-resistant paint. Therefore, one cylinder will be enough for us. And the legs and existing additional elements can be painted with ordinary paint for metal. This will slightly reduce costs, since the price of heat-resistant paint is much higher than ordinary enamel for metal.

During and after painting, dust should be avoided on the painted surface and work should be carried out at a temperature of at least 10 degrees Celsius in calm weather.

At this point, our work on the manufacture of a barbecue from a gas cylinder can be considered completed, but on my own I want to add that there are a lot of schemes and examples for the manufacture of this type of barbecue on the Internet. However, a brazier from a gas cylinder can be unique in its kind when you make it yourself and show your imagination to implement projects for additional structural elements. This is how I made a brazier from a gas cylinder with my own hands:

Write questions and additions below. I would be glad to hear your opinion.

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Optimizing the cost of heating a country house is a very urgent task for its owner: what to use as fuel, which heating unit is the best. Self-made stoves from gas cylinders are very popular, allowing you to use very cheap, sometimes just waste fuel. In this case, heating costs are minimal.

Making a heating unit with your own hands from a cylinder

The zealous owner carefully insulates his house, trying to reduce the cost of heating it. In addition, there are a number of objects that need to be heated periodically: workshops, garages, outbuildings. Greenhouses or conservatories need to be heated regularly.

Therefore, home craftsmen are constantly developing and implementing additional heating units of various designs. The most popular are products made from gas cylinders. The reason for this is the convenient shape and almost ideal proportions and characteristics of the material.

The efficiency of cylinder furnaces reaches 85–90%, which is a very high indicator in comparison with homemade furnaces of other forms. The round shape is ideal for intensive pyrolysis of fuel and allows you to arrange openings for smoke and oxygen supply to the combustion zone at the lowest cost.

A simple and efficient gas cylinder oven will last a long time

What is a cylinder oven

The classic representative of heating units from an old cylinder is the well-known "potbelly stove". She received this name for her extraordinary gluttony, consuming a large amount of fuel. But its main advantage is fast ignition and heating. This is especially important in extreme situations, when for some reason the operation of the main heating stops.

In the design of such a furnace, the cylinders can be in both vertical and horizontal positions. Heat transfer occurs through the surface of the furnace and can be significantly increased by welding metal ribs onto the surface. In addition, the heat of flue gases can be utilized by passing them through a pipe cut into a container with water. Water heated in this way is used in the heating circuit or is used on the farm through an indirect heating boiler.

Pyrolysis ovens occupy a special place in cylinder heaters. Pyrolysis is the thermal decomposition of fuel, which occurs with minimal oxygen access. At a temperature of more than 300 degrees, the fuel in the furnace does not simply burn out during the oxidation process, but decomposes into gas fractions, which give higher temperatures when ignited.

Photo gallery: types of furnaces with a cylinder body

What cylinders can be used

Not every gas cylinder is suitable for the manufacture of the furnace body. For example, the use of composite cylinders is not recommended. Despite its strength, the composite does not tolerate high temperatures well.

A capacity of 5 liters cannot serve as a furnace body due to its small size, but containers for liquid fuel are successfully made from it.

You can use cylinders with a volume of 12 and 27 liters. They make excellent thermal units with a capacity of 2-3 kilowatts and 5-7 kilowatts, respectively.

Most often, furnace bodies are made from cylinders with a capacity of 50 liters. Its dimensions - a diameter of 30 centimeters and a height of 85 - are optimal for a heating unit. A stove of this volume is capable of high-quality heating of a small country house.

A propane tank with a volume of 50 liters is best suited for the body of a homemade stove

Oxygen cylinders for ovens are rarely used. The size ratio is not entirely convenient for a firebox device, and a significant height makes such a unit unstable.

Types of furnaces for long burning from a gas cylinder

There are many options for making furnaces from cylinders. Each home master makes their own changes to them, corresponding to the capabilities and understanding of the process. At the same time, the most popular are long-burning pyrolysis ovens. In such designs, the combustion time of the combustion material varies from 12 hours to a day or more, which can significantly reduce fuel consumption.

Conical stack ovens

A popular type of pyrolysis furnace is the conical fuel stack design. In such a furnace, a pin is installed along the axis of the firebox from the grate. When loading, a wooden or tin cone is put on it with the base up. The firebox is filled from above with sawdust, shavings or wood chips. In this case, the heating material must be well tamped so that the bookmark is as dense as possible.

When the fuel is loaded, the cone must be pulled out and the lid must be closed. Fuel is ignited through a blower with a small amount of chips or a dry fuel pellet. As soon as the fuel flares up well, the blower door must be closed, limiting the flow of air into the firebox. Further, the fuel simply smolders, but this is enough to reach the pyrolysis temperature. Smoke is discharged through a pipe at the top of the housing. With this design, "samovar" water tanks are also used for a radiator heating system or for heating water in an indirect heating boiler. It is convenient to use a gas or oxygen cylinder as a container for heating, passing the chimney pipe along the axis of the vessel. In the upper part, a fitting for hot water is welded, in the lower part for the return. The circulation takes place naturally without the use of a pump, which makes the heating system energetically independent.

The burning time of one bookmark is 12-16 hours.

Sawdust should be tamped as tightly as possible

Liquid fuel pyrolysis ovens

For these heating units, fuels such as diesel, diesel fuel or waste oil are used. The use of other energy sources is considered exotic due to their high cost.

Consider the option of using waste oil as fuel. To make the simplest oven, you need:

1. Install a pipe with a diameter of about 100 millimeters in the upper part of the cylinder.
2. About 30 holes with a diameter of 10 millimeters need to be drilled in the pipe walls.
3. Place a bowl-shaped container with a diameter of 120–140 millimeters with sides 25–30 millimeters high at the bottom of the balloon.
4. A tube with a diameter of 10 millimeters with oil and a fuel supply regulator is supplied to the container through the wall of the cylinder.
5. The combustion products are discharged through a side pipe in the upper part of the body.

The cold oven is fired up in the following order:

1. Open the cock on the fuel tank and pour the used oil into the bowl to about the middle of the walls.
2. Pour up to 50 grams of gasoline on top of the oil. Having a lower density, it will remain on the surface.
3. Light up gasoline. As the temperature rises, the oil boils and begins to emit vapors, which also ignite. The air flow draws the flame into the perforated pipe.
4. With a further increase in temperature, fuel pyrolysis occurs, and the combustion intensity increases. In this case, flue gases are removed through the upper chamber along the side pipe. The temperature in the combustion chamber is such that the pipe heats up red-hot, and from it the furnace body quickly heats up.
5. Under these circumstances, it is advisable to partially cool the furnace gases in the chimney using a samovar-type water heating tank.

With all the positive qualities of such a heating unit, including the simplicity of design and low cost of fuel, there is a significant drawback. In the room where such a furnace operates, the smell of burning oil products is constantly present. Therefore, the structure must be taken out of the residential or industrial premises.

An old cylinder and used oil will effectively heat the house

Video: furnace using waste oil from a gas cylinder

Solid fuel long burning stoves

Solid fuel appliances use the following fuels to generate heat:

• firewood;
• woodworking waste in the form of sawdust, shavings, scraps, wood chips;
• peat;
• coal.

There are known cases of using used tires for heating after shredding them.

One of the most popular designs of this type is considered to be a homemade stove with a funny name "bubafonya". It can be manufactured with minimal labor and materials. The basis for manufacturing is a body made of a gas cylinder with a capacity of 50 liters.

The fuel for such a unit can be technological chips, crushed remains of branches and twigs, sawdust and shavings. The only requirement for it is that the humidity should not exceed 12%, which corresponds to the standards for fuel in wood-burning stoves. The burning time of one bookmark is from 14 to 24 hours, depending on the density of its laying. The fuel is ignited after the weight and cover are installed. The ribs on the load form channels for air, allowing the fuel to burn and decompose into pyrolysis gases. The gases enter the upper chamber where they are burned at high temperatures.

As fuel burns, the piston moves down

Slow burning pyrolysis furnace "bubafonya"

It is impossible to describe or simply list all the designs of furnaces that can be made from cylinders, but it is advisable to consider in detail the construction of the "bubafon". Such a model can be made at home with your own hands.

Security

Before describing the design of the furnace and its manufacturing technology, let's pay attention to safety issues. It's about preparing the cylinder itself for processing. Despite the dense structure, the inner surface of the metal is dotted with a network of microscopic cracks. During long-term operation of the tank for its intended purpose, a considerable amount of gas condensate and its precipitation accumulates inside these defects. Such a substance can be explosive and is in no way beneficial to health. Before starting work with the cylinder, you need to fill it with water and let it stand for 2-3 days. It is better to perform the operation away from home. When the liquid is drained, the reasons for this recommendation will become clear - it has an extremely unpleasant and strong odor.

Video: how to safely disassemble a gas cylinder

Tools and materials for the manufacture of the "bubafonya" oven

To make such a heating unit with your own hands, you will need:

Table: required materials and tools

Name	Appointment	Notes (edit)
Furnace body cylinder	Making the main product	boo
Steel bar with a diameter of 10 mm	Manufacturing of handles for the lid and body of the furnace	From waste
Angles 45x45, any profile, pipe cuttings	For support legs	From waste
Bulgarian	Cutting blanks of parts, cutting a cylinder in the manufacture of the body
Steel sheet 6-10 mm thick	Pancake making
Steel strip 40x4 mm	Manufacturing of supporting ribs
Cement, sand, gravel and fireclay bricks	Furnace support base fabrication
Reinforcing bars	Foundation reinforcement
Trowel, shovel, container for mixing mortar	Pouring the foundation
Welding machine for working with ferrous metals and electrodes to it	Making welded joints when assembling the furnace	Rent is possible
Electric drill not less than 0.7 kW, set of drills for metal	Drilling holes
Measuring tool	Taking measurements and marking
Locksmith's corner	Positioning of parts during assembly, quality control
Kerner	Hole marking
Flat and semicircular files	Removal of sharp edges and burrs, resizing
Marker black	Markup production
Individual protection means	Glasses, welder's mask, face shield, mittens, gloves, special shoes, rags.

In addition to the above, you will need some tools from a standard locksmith's kit: a hammer, pliers, etc.

The procedure for the manufacture of the "bubafonya" oven

The advantage of this model is that the cylinder body is exposed to the least interference. The manufacturing procedure for the bubafonya oven is as follows:

1. Separate the head dome of the cylinder using a grinder.
2. Make a hole in it along the axis with a diameter of about 80 millimeters. Since the dome part will later be used as a lid, two handles from the bar need to be welded to it. The cap will have to be removed every time you load fuel.

   The cut off top of the cylinder - part for the manufacture of the cap

3. Make a hole of approximately the same diameter in the bottom of the cylinder. Its purpose is periodic cleaning from combustion residues. This hole must be closed with a secure shutter.
4. About 5 centimeters from the upper edge of the body, you need to make a hole for the chimney pipe. Usually it is a pipe with a diameter of up to 15 centimeters with a wall of at least 4 millimeters.
5. At a distance of approximately 10–12 centimeters from the bottom of the cylinder, drill three holes with a diameter of 10 millimeters. They are located in a circle at an angle of 120 degrees in relation to each other. Bars with a diameter of 9.0-9.5 millimeters are inserted into the holes so that they protrude inward by 20-25 millimeters. Outside, the rods must be welded to the body.
6. Cut out a circle with a diameter of two millimeters less than the internal size of the case from a sheet of four millimeters thick. Drill 20-25 holes with a diameter of 10 millimeters in it. This detail will play the role of a grate.
7. Place the part on the projections of the pins.
8. Next, you need to make a piston, which will also perform the function of a load. The piston consists of a few simple parts. The first is a pipe with a diameter of about 80 millimeters with a wall of up to four millimeters. The use of an electrowelded longitudinal seam pipe is allowed. The second part is a pancake, in the center of which you need to cut a hole equal to the diameter of the pipe. The pipe is welded to the pancake at right angles and coaxially.

   The ribs on the pancake provide air intake for fuel pyrolysis

9. Ribs from a strip about 40 millimeters wide or a corner of the corresponding size are welded to the bottom surface of the ring. They run from the center to the edge of the pancake. The number of ribs is 4–6 pieces.
10. A damper must be installed at the upper end of the pipe in order to be able to completely block the opening in the pipe.

    Flue gas outlet and air shut-off damper

The procedure for storing fuel and lighting the stove

The sequence of actions is as follows:

1. Fuel preparation consists in crushing large fragments to the state of technological chips (5x20 mm) and mixing it with sawdust and shavings.
2. Add fuel to the furnace; in this case, it is necessary to tamp it, achieving the greatest density of the mass.
3. Lightly moisten the surface of the fuel tab with lighter fluid.
4. Place the piston in the furnace body with the pan facing downwards, fully open the damper on the pipe.
5. Close the lid.
6. To ignite the fuel, take a small rag soaked in ignition fluid and lower it into the pipe. If you just throw a match there, it will go out along the way.

Photo gallery: how to light the bubafonya stove

When the fuel ignites, the furnace heats up. Combustion air will flow through the pipe from top to bottom. When the temperature reaches 300 degrees, the process of fuel decomposition begins. Pyrolysis gases enter the upper compartment and ignite there. From this point on, you can completely close the damper on the pipe.

The combustion process takes place as follows:

1. After closing the damper, air enters the furnace through the slotted gap between the pipe and the edges of the hole in the lid. Combustion of pyrolysis gases creates a sufficient temperature for decomposition of the next layers of fuel.
2. The ribs on the bottom of the pancake do not allow it to sink to the fuel layer and block the combustion. Through the cavities between them, gases enter the upper chamber.
3. Thus, a layer-by-layer consumption of combustible material occurs with the formation of a large amount of heat.

The burning of one bookmark lasts up to a day or more.

Such stoves are equally successful in handling fuels such as peat or pellets.

Heat recovery occurs by heating the furnace body. However, it may not be complete. It is advisable to use a samovar method of taking energy for heating through a radiator heating system.

Video: review of the "bubafonya" stove: device, kindling, advantages and disadvantages

Calculation of the basic parameters of the "bubafonya" oven

The effective operation of a furnace of this design directly depends on the combination of many indicators and their optimal interaction.

Furnace wall thickness

Based on the experience of operating long-burning furnaces, the optimal wall thickness is 4–5 millimeters. This is just such a parameter that a fifty-liter bottle has. If the wall is thinner, heat transfer is disturbed and the body burns out rather quickly.

Calculation of pancake parameters

The gap between the pancake and the inner wall of the cylinder is determined by the ratio s = 0.5D. That is, with a diameter of 300 mm, this value will be 300 x 0.05 = 15 millimeters. It should be noted that compliance with this parameter is very important. With a larger gap, the fuel near the walls will burn more slowly, as a result of which the pancake can fall into the bookmark and combustion will stop.

In practice, the height of the pressure ribs is 40 millimeters.

Pancake thickness

This parameter is inversely proportional to the body diameter. That is, the larger the diameter, the thinner the part should be. There are tables of such dependence on the Internet, for our case this parameter is 6-10 millimeters. The exact data and calculation methods are not given, but it is quite enough to adhere to the published recommendations.

Chimney section size

The minimum allowable chimney section is determined by the amount of energy released per hour of furnace operation, which is determined by the ratio S = 1.75E (kW / h). Here E = mq, where m is the mass of the fuel in the load, q is the specific energy of the fuel that burns over an hour, the tabular value. The required information is given in the table.

Table: data for calculating the chimney cross-section

Having made the necessary calculations, we obtain the minimum required diameter of the chimney for the bubafonya stove of 150 millimeters.

Air intake pipe size

Preparing for assembly, choosing a place for installation

Before starting work on assembling the stove, it is necessary to prepare the place of its installation. After pouring the foundation, it will take time for the concrete to harden. During this period, you can slowly make the oven itself. The foundation can be used no earlier than 7 days after pouring. On top of the concrete base, you need to lay out a platform made of refractory bricks.

A good foundation is essential for the safe operation of the oven

When choosing a place to install the oven, the following circumstances must be taken into account:

• the distance to the nearest walls made of combustible material must be more than one meter; if there is no such place, the walls must be additionally protected from heating with an asbestos sheet 8-10 millimeters thick; on top of it, install a sheet of galvanized metal with a thickness of 0.5-0.7 millimeters;
• the chimney in the vertical part should not fall on the supporting beam;
• if an external chimney with a wall outlet is used, the length of the horizontal part should not be more than one meter; otherwise, it is necessary to carry out the chimney with a slope of 45 degrees.

It is better to prepare parts and assemble the stove indoors, for example, in a garage. This will save neighbors from unnecessary noise when working with a grinder and from the sparkling of an electric welding arc. The room must be equipped with exhaust ventilation. If welding is carried out in the open air, the work area must be protected with protective screens.

Furnace modernization

Improving the parameters of the furnace is associated with an increase in its heat transfer. To do this, use additional heat exchange surfaces on the furnace body. Such parts can be made from various metal profiles, including strips, corners, and shaped pipes. The choice of material depends on what is available from the leftovers.

Additional heat exchangers made of metal profiles increase the efficiency of the device

Additional heating surfaces can be installed not only on the outer surface, but also inside the firebox, which makes it possible to intensively heat the air in the room. The negative result of this decision will be oxygen burnout at high temperatures.

Features of the operation of the pyrolysis oven

The main difference between pyrolysis ovens is the ability to use a wide variety of fuels. In solid fuel stoves, it is allowed to burn not only traditional combustible substances, but also rubber, plastic and other materials with which it is categorically not recommended to heat conventional stoves.

This feature is associated with the complete decomposition of the fuel and the secondary combustion of the resulting gases in a separate chamber. After that, only carbon dioxide and water vapor remain in the smoke emissions. No harmful emissions into the atmosphere during pyrolysis occur.

But when using such fuel at the stage of ignition, a persistent smell of burnt rubber remains in the room. Therefore, such heating units must be installed outside residential premises.

Maintenance of pyrolysis ovens

Pyrolysis ovens require much less attention than conventional devices. This is due to the fact that there are practically no solid particles that form soot in the flue gases. The presence of water vapor in the exhaust determines the formation of condensation on the walls of the chimney. Therefore, it is necessary to install a condensate collector with a drain cock, which must be used regularly as it accumulates.

This statement is true for perfectly balanced stoves, where complete decomposition of the fuel occurs. But the breakthrough of ordinary furnace gases cannot be ruled out, therefore, a regular inspection of the inner surface of the chimney is necessary. It must be cleaned if necessary. Inspection is carried out at least twice a year.

On long-burning stoves, an insulated stainless steel pipe is mandatory.

Waste oil stoves should be cleaned regularly as carbon deposits and sludge build up in the fuel bowl. In the first combustion chamber of the fuel, normal combustion takes place with the release of solid particles. The design of the furnace allows you to visually monitor the condition of this unit.

When you make a stove for heating yourself, there are no trifles. Each circumstance must be carefully weighed and considered. Otherwise, all efforts will be in vain. I wish you success!

If you have LPG pneumatics, there are probably a lot of empty cartridges. The author of the article suggests not throwing them away, but making a solid case for the flash drive.

Attention!!! Make sure there is no gas left before cutting the can! The can is under high pressure and disassembling it may cause the can to explode!

So in our hands empty a can (and preferably two) imported from carbon dioxide (CO?). You can also use domestic cylinders - their wall thickness is even slightly larger (although these are quite thick), but, unfortunately, they are shorter, so long flash drives run the risk of not getting into them.

Next, we need to cut the can into two parts, of which one will become the body, and the second will become the lid. Although I personally did not like the version of the lid in the form of a standard neck, so the lid was made from the semicircular bottom of the second cylinder. I draw your attention to the need for a very accurate cut perpendicular to the axis! Even minor errors can lead to the fact that when the body and the cap are connected, the wall will acquire a quite noticeable "break". Naturally, the ends of the sawn-off parts must be evenly sanded with a "sandpaper" on a flat surface, for example, glass. In principle, this can be finished - the flash drive will turn out to be laconic and brutal, but I decided to slightly embellish the case and made three oblique cuts on both sides with the help of two hacksaw blades folded together. Then I again aligned the cuts with a file and a "sandpaper" (but not very small - we will benefit from micro-scratches on the walls of the slot) wrapped around a plastic card.

Naturally, it was impossible to just leave holes in the case, so I began to think about how to cover them. After going through several solutions, I came up with a rather tricky option. To do this, a ruler of the desired color is bought in the office supply store - I chose UV-active (fluorescent) orange, as it goes well with brushed metal. It is also necessary to check that the thickness of the plastic roughly coincides with the thickness of the slot, or rather slightly exceeds it.

A small piece of colored plastic is cut out of the ruler so that it can be inserted into this slot with a margin of length and height. Just in case, I remind you that in thickness it should be slightly larger than the slot and not fit into it. The butt end is ground to a semicircular profile - to fit snugly to the "bottom" of the slots.

We will need dichloroethane, which is widely known to modders who love working with plexiglass, and is usually sold on radio markets. Using a brush or cotton swab, you need to quickly and abundantly moisten the side surfaces and the end of a piece of the ruler, wait a few seconds until the dichloroethane softens the plastic surface and forcefully insert it into the gap until it stops (you can help yourself with a hammer). Make sure there are no gaps anywhere.

Now we put it off and go to drink tea (not forgetting wash your hands well after dichloroethane). We need to wait until the dichloroethane has completely evaporated and the plastic regains its original hardness - do not touch it for at least a few hours, otherwise you risk loosening the tight fit. When everything is dry, you can cut off the excess plastic from the outside, being careful not to touch the metal, and sand it flush with the body.

You can also grind the plastic flush with the metal case from the inside, although this is not necessary. Perhaps, without this operation, the plastic will hold even more reliably in the groove, but most likely it will slightly interfere with the installation of the flash drive board.

The plastic was surprisingly well anchored and was not going to fly out, despite the small thickness. Once the technology was successful, I did the same with all the other cuts, of course this time in bulk. Of course, after that, the body was finally polished.

Next, it was necessary to think over the technology of fastening the flash drive board in its new case. For this, three washers were cut out from the same line for the inner diameter of the case, after which slots were made in them for the USB flash drive connector. Two of them will be glued together and will firmly hold the board in the case, and the third will become a counterpart in the lid.

After that, the question arose of organizing the backlight. It was a sin not to take advantage of the UV activity of plastic, and therefore a 3 mm ultraviolet LED was chosen for the role of the backlight. When trying to connect it directly instead of the standard LED indicator on the board, it turned out that there was not enough power for it and it barely glows. The only power supply remains 5 volts from the USB connector, but in this case we will lose the read / write indication function.

Memories of the basics of electrical engineering suggested a solution in the form of a transistor. The first element that came across was found on the old board from the hard drive and was removed from there, I confess - I did not perform any selection by parameters and did not even see the marking, but surprisingly the circuit worked! In short - the power is directly taken from those very 5 volts through a resistor, and the "ground" is connected to the transistor, and it appears exactly when the transistor fixes the voltage at the contacts of the LED-indicator. A simple diagram is attached.

The rocket furnace design is no secret to the experienced craftsman. But today we will see an unusual rocket furnace made from an oxygen cylinder.

The rocket furnace, thanks to its parameters, has gained popularity all over the world. Unpretentiousness to fuel, good heat transfer, ease of manufacture are the main advantages of such a furnace. By the way, the rocket stove is also manufactured in residential premises for heating and cooking, and not only as a "marching" or "outdoor" version.

Do-it-yourself rocket furnace from an oxygen cylinder

• Step one: cutting the balloon
• Step two: loading chamber
• Step three: loading hole
• Step four: ash pan
• Step five: vortex flow
• Step six: welding
• Step seven: insulation
• Step eight: gas afterburning system
• Step nine: cover
• Step ten: support

There are several options for building such a furnace. The master combined two such options for photos 1, and 2., and made his own photo 3.

For the manufacture of the DIY master used the following

Tools and materials:

• Oxygen balloon;
• Cardboard;
• Marker;
• Insulating tape;
• Magnetic square;
• Welding machine;
• Profile pipe;
• Band saw for metal;
• Channel;
• Roulette;
• Metal brush;
• Hammer;
• Clamp;
• Metal container;
• Pliers;
• Bolt;
• Two bushings;
• Perlite;

Step one: cutting the balloon

For the stove to function properly, its vertical part must be 2.5 times longer than the fuel chamber. With this in mind, the master makes the marking of the cylinder. For an even cut, wraps a piece of cardboard around the cylinder, aligns the edge and outlines with a marker. When marking volumetric parts in this way, you can be sure that the cut point will be even.

Step two: loading chamber

Now you need to properly cut off the edge of the loading chamber. The master makes a template from paper. Transfer the template to the workpiece.

Cuts along the markup.

Step three: loading hole

With the help of a magnetic angle, it fixes the loading chamber to the workpiece. Draws it around the contour from the inside and outside.

Checks fit, adjusts if necessary.

Step four: ash pan

The ash pan provides access to the combustion chamber, and it can also be used to control the draft. The master made the ash pan from a profile pipe 100 * 100 mm. Cut to size.

Fitted along the radius of the pipe.

I cut a hole in the pipe.

Step five: vortex flow

To provide more traction, the master makes forced ventilation. The pipe will draw in air and it will increase the thrust after passing through the curved pipe.

Cuts off the shelves of the channel.

Bends the edge of the workpiece around the pipe.

Step six: welding

All parts are ready and you can start welding.

Welds the loading chamber.

Now you need to measure where to cut the ventilation hole. The master applies the workpiece to the ash pan and outlines the place where the curved part is applied.

Welds the workpiece, scalds the ash pan.

Step seven: insulation

The foreman uses a barrel to insulate the top of the riser. Cuts a hole in it. Makes "petals".