Plasterboard ceilings are a simple and economical way to transform an apartment. The reliability of the construction has been proven by many years of experience. The same experience shows that these ceilings have a lot of advantages. It is also of great importance that it is simple to make plasterboard ceilings, and a non-professional can cope with the task. The aesthetic possibilities here are simply endless. You can create a unique design, boldly using different lighting options and curved shapes.

Preparations should begin with the creation of a project. Specify how many levels the ceiling will have. Depends on . In advance, it is necessary to think over the layout of lighting devices and additional lighting. It may be necessary to gouge the ceiling and walls to lay the wiring. Only after that you can draw up a project, carry out calculations and go to the store for materials.

Instruments

It won't work without reliable tools. The time of work depends on them. Before purchasing materials, check if you have all the tools. Better to make a list right away and buy everything in advance.

Of the little things you will need: marker, construction pencil, indicator screwdriver, drills of different diameters, jigsaw files, bits, masking tape, duct tape and paint rollers.

Materials (edit)

Drywall can have a thickness of 6.5 to 12.5 mm. For the ceiling, it is better to buy sheets with a thickness of 9, 5 mm. But if there is in the project, 6.5 mm drywall will be the best for them. If you purchase thicker sheets, you need to strengthen the frame. Your ceiling will be heavy, which means it needs more profiles and fixings.

Important.
Plasterboard is suitable for residential premises. with GKL marking.
For the kitchen or bathroom you need moisture resistant material.

Profiles are needed of two types:

• Guide (PN) with dimensions of 27 x 27 mm. This profile is attached around the perimeter of the room.
• Ceiling (PP) with dimensions of 56 x 27 or 60 x 27 mm. Plasterboard sheets are attached directly to this profile.

Profiles used for the ceiling:
ceiling CD and UD runner

U-shaped hangers are used to fasten the ceiling profiles to the rough ceiling. You can use other suspensions, but U-shaped ones are the most reliable. For the ceiling, it is better to take plastic dowels and screws. If the ceiling is concrete, dowels are required for heavy metal structures. Self-tapping screws are used to fasten drywall. A connector (crab) is used at the joints of the profiles.

In the final stages, a joint filler and paint are required.

Ceiling installation stages

Drywall work involves a lot of dust. If you do not intend to change the wallpaper, you need to cover it with a film. It is better to take out furniture, in extreme cases, wrap it tightly with foil. The rough ceiling must be plastered and primed. Pieces of plaster falling onto the false ceiling can damage it. All wiring has already been carried out to the areas where the lighting fixtures are installed.

1. Measurements and marking

The height of the ceiling depends on the type of lighting fixture. If a chandelier is intended, 5 cm is enough. For about 10 cm of free space is needed. If you plan to hide communications behind the ceiling, the distance can be up to 40 cm.

A perfectly flat horizontal line must be drawn on the walls under the ceiling. Along this line, you will attach the guide profile. A laser level is needed to determine this line. You can use a spirit level or a rule. The line must be closed exactly at the point from which it began. The slightest displacement is unacceptable. In the corners, the level must be placed both on the surface of the walls and in the corners of the spacer. All lines are drawn with a construction pencil.

Horizontal markings around the perimeter - controlled using a level, then the points of attachment of the guides are marked

After completing the horizontal marking, proceed to the ceiling. The attachment points of the suspensions are marked and the lines are drawn along which the ceiling profile will be mounted. As a result, you should have a grid with squares, the side of which is 60 cm. You need to start from the center of the room. Most likely, squares will not work near the walls. Your task is to make the sizes of the cells symmetrical around each wall.

2. Installation of the frame

The standard length of the guide profile is 3 m. For fixing one element, you need to use at least 4 dowels-nails. It is advisable to glue the profile with a sealing tape at the point of contact with the wall. The profile should run clearly along the drawn markings, the elements should fit snugly together. Installation is best done in the classical way, in which the dowel is first screwed in, and then the screw is installed in it.

The next step is to attach U-shaped hangers to the rough ceiling with dowel-nails. The interval between them along one line should be 40-70 cm. At the joints of the profiles, suspensions are installed on both sides. The ends of the suspension should be bent as much as possible. In the process of fastening, they should not bend, otherwise the profile cannot be fixed evenly.

The ceiling profile should be 1 cm shorter than the width of the ceiling. If your room is less than 3m wide (standard profile length), cut off the excess with metal scissors. If the room is wider, you will have to connect two profiles. To do this, you need to buy special fasteners.

Important! If you are building up a ceiling profile, the joints on two adjacent ones should not be on the same line. Additionally, the joints are fixed with hangers.

Sequence of installation of ceiling profiles:

• You need to start from the corners of the room. The teammate takes the rule and sets it diagonally in the corner. The other end of the rule will support the profile so that it does not sag. This will keep your partner keeping the profile aligned with the guides. In the meantime, you insert the profile into the guides, screw it to the hangers for 4 self-tapping screws and to the guides.
• The center is also attached to suspensions. If it is impossible to use the rule as in the corner, apply it exactly from the starting profile, be sure to check the line with a level. The excess length of the suspensions is bent upwards.
• The second profile is attached in the same way. After that, everything should be repeated near the opposite wall.
• The central profiles are attached in the same way, aligning with those already installed.

Further, jumpers are installed perpendicular to the main profiles. The distance between them should be 60 cm, this is why you broke the ceiling into squares. The profile is cut into sections with the required length. At the joints, crabs are installed, attached to 4 self-tapping screws, the antennae are bent. The jumpers are attached to the antennae of the crab with self-tapping screws. It is not necessary to attach the lintels to the profile from the bottom, they will be fixed during the installation of drywall.

Photo: insulation of a suspended ceiling with mineral wool

The free space between the sub-ceiling and the false ceiling can be filled with heat and sound insulation. The most commonly used mineral wool. It is cut into rectangles of a larger size than the cells in the frame, and the space is filled, additionally fixing it with suspensions.

3. Installation of drywall

Plasterboard sheets should lie in the room for several days, always in a horizontal position. Sheets are cut to the required size with a construction knife. Before starting installation, the chamfer must be cut at the edges with a knife at an angle so that the putty completely fills the gap. Burrs that form during cutting are removed with a plane. Holes for fixtures are made with crowns after careful measurements.

• Sheets need to start fastening from the corner. Self-tapping screws on adjacent sheets should be screwed in at different levels. The step between the self-tapping screws is 20 cm. The hat must be completely recessed; it is advisable to check each self-tapping screw by touch.
• The sheet is attached to both the rail and the ceiling profiles.
• It is impossible to dock drywall close to the perimeter. Leave a 2 mm gap.
• Between themselves, the sheets must be placed apart, shifting at least one cell.

Photo: fastening a drywall sheet with a screwdriver

28 September, 2016
Specialization: master for interior and exterior decoration (plaster, putty, tile, drywall, lining, laminate and so on). In addition, plumbing, heating, electrical, conventional cladding and balcony extensions. That is, repairs in an apartment or house were done on a turnkey basis with all the necessary types of work.

Now I will tell you how to do the installation of plasterboard suspended ceilings with your own hands in four stages, to correctly prepare materials and a selection of the necessary tools. Perhaps you have already come across such information, moreover, even on this site. But the fact is that each master brings his own nuances to the installation, making the work easier and improving its quality. If you are interested in my methods, then stay with me on the page. You will also have the opportunity to watch an interesting thematic video in this article as a supplement.

Single-level plasterboard ceilings

In most cases, the installation of a plasterboard ceiling on one level is done in rooms up to 250 cm high to level the plane. Occasionally, one tier is lowered too high ceilings in houses of the old type, although, in such cases, more often than not, several levels are made.

GKL parameters table

Abbreviation	View	General characteristics	Where is applied	Surface color	Marking color
GKL	Normal	Does not stand out for special properties	For rooms with normal humidity conditions	Gray	Blue
GKLV	Moisture resistant	Covered with impregnated cardboard, has antifungal and hydrophobic additives in the core material	For rooms with normal and high humidity conditions	Green	Blue
GKLO	Fire retardant	Has special reinforcing additives in the core material	Near heating appliances and open flames	Gray	Red
GKLVO	Moisture resistant and fire resistant	Combination of properties of GKLV and GKLO	The combination of the use of GKLV and GKLO	Green	Blue

As I said above, you will need four steps to install a single-level gypsum plasterboard ceiling:

1. First of all, you need to prepare the rough surface, as well as select the right tools and materials;
2. The second stage will be the marking for the installation of the galvanized profile crate;
3. Then you will need to mount the frame from UD and CD profiles;
4. And at the last, final stage, you will proceed with the installation of drywall.

For leveling ceilings, in 99% of cases, ceiling plasterboard is used. In special situations, such as high humidity, the presence or possibility of an open fire, or both together, GKLV, GKLO or GKLVO can be used.

Preparation

It would seem that if the surface is covered with gypsum board - what to prepare there? But nonetheless. Those who live in old-style houses will immediately understand what I mean - this is a rounding at the junction of the wall and ceiling, which was made instead of a ceiling plinth, as a decorative decoration.

So, with a room height of 250 cm, this element will interfere with the installation of the UD profile around the perimeter, therefore, it needs to be knocked down. In addition, the instruction requires the removal of plaster, which does not adhere well, and in some cases you also have to seal up the joints between concrete floors, but you will already determine this yourself.

Of the tools you will need:

• perforator for knocking down plaster and making holes for dowels;
• electric or cordless drill (screwdriver) for the assembly of the frame and installation of plasterboard sheets;
• special nozzle with lampshade to rest against a surface that does not allow the screw to press through the paper with the head;
• metal scissors for cutting galvanized profiles;
• drywall knife(or ordinary, construction);
• water or laser level, as a rule;
• chokline(painting cord);
• construction square, metric tape measure, pencil, nylon threads
• possible (if you will be installing recessed luminaires), set of crown cutters for drywall.

You also don't need a lot of materials, these are:

• ceiling plasterboard 6.5 mm or 8 mm thick;
• profiles CD and UD, perforated hangers;
• dowels and screws.

We mark the ceiling and walls under the crate

If you live in an apartment or house where the ceilings are no more than 250 cm, then, naturally, space in height will be expensive for you, which means, first of all, you need to find the lowest point on the ceiling. Of course, this is easiest to do with a laser level, but, if you wish, you can also "by eye", if you, of course, have a good eye.

And from it you will need to go down at least 2.5 cm and apply a mark at this level in any of the corners. Then, using a level, this mark is transferred to each corner, more precisely to each of its sides, and then all this is connected by a chokline into one solid line for a reference point.

We will make the supporting part of the lathing from the CD profile, which is located with a step of 50 cm, that is, 5 profiles across the sheet. But for this we need to pay attention to the corners in the room. If they have 90 °, then all problems disappear automatically - we just mark the ceiling every 50 cm for the supporting frame and that's it. But if the corners are not right, then you have to play a little here.

We choose the most even wall along which the gypsum board will be mounted and relative to it we find an acute angle, from which we will begin the marking. Depart from this corner 50 cm and so go to the end with the same step. Then from the first mark, using a construction square, draw a line towards the opposite wall - so you can transfer this mark, and from it mark the opposite line.

Now all you have to do is connect the set marks with a chokline through the ceiling, and you will get the markings for the installation of suspensions, but more on that later. For a visual understanding of what is happening, pay attention to the schematic drawing above - the step between the profiles of the crate in any place should not exceed 50 cm (less is possible). If you are planning to install chandeliers and / or recessed ones, then it's time to make markings under them as well.

Installation of lathing

The next step is the installation of plasterboard ceilings involves the installation of UD profiles along the reference line (along the perimeter) - the profile itself must be above the line so that you can see it. In fact, UD manufacturers make holes with 300 mm spacing, but sometimes this does not happen. But you shouldn't drill them separately from the wall.

Just put marks on the control line after 30 cm, apply the profile and make two holes at the same time - in the "stick" and in the wall.

If the plaster on the walls is good, then impact dowels can be used for fastening, but in the usual manner, dowels with a diameter of 6 mm and self-tapping screws 50-70 mm long are used. At the joints, you do not need to connect the profiles in the form of a seam, but simply nest one into the other (edge) - this way you will get the smoothest line.

We have already marked the ceiling, so you need to install suspensions along these lines at a distance of 60-70 cm, but if an increased load is meant on the ceiling, then after 40-50 cm.An increased load means gypsum plasterboard with ceramic tiles - this option can be used on or in the bathroom.

Pay attention to the photo above - the suspension should be fixed inside the letter P, under the crossbar, but not behind the ears, since the suspension will be pulled under load and this is inevitable.

Now you need to measure each CD profile - its length will be equal to the distance from wall to wall minus 5 mm by the thickness of the UD partition and backlash for free installation. Just do not cut all the profiles according to the same pattern - the wall may be uneven and you may have problems (moreover, it's good if the CD turns out to be longer than necessary!).

Insert all CD profiles into the UD and pull them with the ears of the suspenders slightly above the level so that you can pull the thread under them.

The thread is pulled approximately in the middle of the ceiling along the lathing - self-tapping screws for profiles are screwed on the lower shelves of opposite UDs (their length is 9-11 mm, for which they received the popular name "fleas"). A nylon thread is tied and pulled onto these screws, along which all CD profiles are aligned.

The distance between the thread and the profiles should be kept somewhere around 0.5 mm, so that in no case there is a touch, otherwise the level will fail. The ears of the screwed hangers are bent up or to the sides so that they do not interfere with the installation of the gypsum board in the future, although you can cut them off to use for other purposes, and it is not necessary to remove the thread - you can leave it.

If any wiring is planned in the ceiling cavity, then do not forget to install it - preferably, wrap the wires in a corrugated plastic or metal hose and attach to the rough ceiling.

Plasterboard installation

So, the installation of a plasterboard ceiling is coming to an end and you just have to install the gypsum board on the profiles of the crate, which is not so difficult if everything else is done correctly.

But at the same time, certain rules should be followed. First of all, all fixed edges must be joined in the center of the profile - this is why the correct marking for the installation of the battens is so important. Perhaps, even, most likely, you will have to trim the corners of the gypsum board - do not hesitate to do this - this is quite normal.

Remember, in the list of necessary tools, we said that you need a special nozzle with a lampshade (size PH-2), which will not allow the cap to push through the paper. So, look at the image above - you see three options and only one of them is correct, and the most convenient way to achieve this result is with the help of such a nozzle.

Installation of gypsum board on the ceiling - an experienced master works

Do not try to repeat what you see in the top photo - it takes a lot of experience and skill - I only show this so that you understand what an experienced master can do. Even experienced drywall workers prefer to work together or three, and construction companies use special lifts, but this is already for very large installation areas.

The distance between the self-tapping screws in one row (along the profile) should be no more than 30 cm, but always along the edges of the sheets, and if the assembly is made from pieces, then this distance, of course, decreases. Do not be discouraged when you mount the pieces, and gaps of the order of 2-5 mm are obtained between them - this is quite normal and such gaps are subsequently sealed with putty and reinforced with a serpentine, but this is already the next stage of work.

During the installation of the gypsum board, do not forget to make holes for recessed lamps and bring out the wiring under them (if any). And they can be provided only if the ceiling sinus allows it. For LED devices, a distance of at least 4 cm is required, and for the rest - at least 7 cm.

Conclusion

In conclusion, I would like to draw your attention to the fact that the Chinese drywall, which has 6.5 mm instead of the usual 8 mm, behaves no worse without load, but its price is less. I invite you to discuss this topic.

Do you want to make a plasterboard suspended ceiling on your own, but doubt that you can handle the job? Then this article is exactly what you need. In it, all the works are described in great detail so that any person can understand them. You just have to repeat the steps, and you will achieve excellent results.

Workflow steps

To carry out the installation of a plasterboard suspended ceiling with your own hands, you need to know and clearly follow a certain sequence of actions.

The technology has been tested over the years and includes the following stages:

1. Preparation of materials and tools;
2. Marking the position of the guides and their fastening;
3. Frame construction;
4. Fastening drywall to the frame;
5. Sealing joints on the surface;
6. Ceiling putty and painting.

Stage 1 - preparation of materials and tools

This is the preparatory part of the work, in which you must collect everything you need. Even before purchasing everything you need, you must measure the room in which the work will be carried out, this will allow you to accurately calculate the required amount of materials.

To begin with, let's figure out from which elements the suspended plasterboard ceiling is assembled.

Material	Selection recommendations
Drywall	The most commonly used ceiling version is 9.5 mm. But you can also use wall elements with a thickness of 12 mm, their price is higher, but the surface will turn out to be more reliable. For rooms with high humidity, it is better to use a moisture-resistant version, it is easy to distinguish it by the green color of the protective paper layer. The required amount is calculated according to the area of ​​the surface to be trimmed.
Guide elements	The number of the guide profile is calculated based on the length of the walls around the perimeter of the room. The elements are 3 meters long. Choose options made of metal with a thickness of at least 0.5 mm
Main Profile	The number of bearing profiles is calculated as follows: the width of the room in meters is divided by 0.4 (this is the spacing of the elements). They must also be made of metal with a thickness of at least 0.5 mm.
Fasteners for drywall	This includes straight hangers, profile connectors, and hardware products. Of the hardware, you need dowel-nails, self-tapping bugs and self-tapping screws for metal for fastening drywall
Insulation	If you need to insulate or soundproof the surface, then mineral wool is laid under the frame

If you want to ensure the best sound insulation of the structure, then a special acoustic tape is placed under the wall profile and suspensions. It dampens vibrations passing through the structure, and thus reduces the noise level in the room by half.

Now let's figure out what materials the ceiling surface is leveled with:

Putty "Vetonit" is an excellent solution for leveling the ceiling

Material	Selection Tips
Putty	Choose a composition that has high plasticity, fits well on the surface and is easy to rub. All these requirements are met by the products of the Vetonit company. I use it and have never been disappointed in the quality
Sealing compound	To strengthen the joints, you need to use high strength compounds. The most popular solution is Knauf Fugen. It is a gypsum-based mixture with high strength and crack resistance.
Primer	To strengthen the surface, it is necessary to treat it with a special deep penetration compound. The most popular are acrylic-based options.
Serpyanka mesh	It is necessary to strengthen the joints. The most commonly used version is 45 mm wide with a self-adhesive layer.
Dye	Used for surface finishing. Use any compound suitable for application to the putty surface

Now let's figure out the tool with which we install our own plasterboard suspended ceilings:

• Perforator for drilling holes for dowel-nails;
• Laser or water level to mark the plane. The usual level for structural control. Roulette and pencil for measurements and marking;

• Shears for metal for cutting a profile. The simplest manual option is also suitable;
• Screwdriver with PH2 nozzles for screwing self-tapping screws;

• You can cut drywall with an ordinary construction knife;
• A container and a drill with a mixer are needed to prepare mixtures;
• For application, use a narrow (10 cm) and wide (30 cm) spatulas;

• To level the surface, use a float and sandpaper or mesh with a grain size of P150 or less;
• The primer and paint are applied with a roller, abutments and hard-to-reach areas are brushed.

Stage 2 - marking the position of the wall profile and fixing it

This is the first part of the work, where the following steps are performed:

• The lowest point of the ceiling slab is determined. The level of the suspended structure must be 50 mm below this area. If you install recessed lamps in the ceiling, then the indent will be at least 80 mm, otherwise the equipment simply will not fit;
• Then you need to make a markup around the perimeter of the room. If you work with a water level, then you need to make a mark in one corner, and then, transferring the other end to other corners, mark the entire room. After that, lines are drawn between the points. If you have a laser level, then everything is simplified: you just draw a line along the mark;

• Next, the profile is cut into pieces of the required size, applied along the line, and the attachment points of the elements are marked. If there is no hole 10 cm from the edge, then it must be drilled and the location of the place for drilling on the wall must be marked. Drilling is performed with a hammer drill with a 6 mm drill. In order not to check the depth of the holes, stick electrical tape or tape on the drill as a guide;
• If you will be fixing the profile through acoustic tape, do not forget to stick it on before installing the guide elements. The self-adhesive side is pressed against the base of the profile and glued evenly along the entire length. Do not forget to cut holes at the locations of the dowels;

• The profile is attached to the surface, after which dowels are inserted into the holes. The screws are simply hammered in with a hammer. At this point, the fastening can be considered complete.

Stage 3 - construction of the frame

The installation of the frame consists of the following steps:

• To begin with, you need to draw lines every 40 cm. These will be the guidelines for the location of the ceiling profiles. That is, from center to center of each element should be 40 centimeters;
• According to the markings, suspensions are attached to the ceiling; they are located perpendicular to the line at a distance of 50 cm from each other. It is better to place the mount in a checkerboard pattern so that each next row is not in line with the previous one, but with an offset. You can glue a sealing tape under the hangers if you used it on wall guides;

• If the length of the room is less than three meters, then the excess part of the suspensions is cut off with scissors. If the length is longer, then you need to increase the racks to the desired size. Please note that the extension is done using special connectors. They allow you to maintain the ideal geometry of the racks and ensure their reliable fastening;

• The profile fits neatly into the guiding elements and is positioned in the middle of the line. After that, you need to fasten the structure on both sides with the help of self-tapping bedbugs. Two elements are screwed into each connection; it is better to use fasteners with a sharp tip;

• The hangers are bent to the profile, after which you need to check the position of the element using a level. If everything is fine, then you can start mounting. Everything is easy here: from both sides it is screwed into a suitable hole with a self-tapping screw. The excess ends simply bend to the sides, they will not interfere with you;

• Jumpers are placed if the frame is made in 60 cm increments. They are positioned every 50 cm and are fixed with crabs, this is the name of the cross-shaped profile connector. The work is simple: the elements of the required size are cut and screwed to the crab with self-tapping screws;

If it is necessary to insulate the surface, then mineral wool is laid under the frame. You do not need to fix it, it will hold on perfectly anyway.

Stage 4 - fixing drywall

At this stage of installing the ceiling, you need to carry out the following work:

• A chamfer is cut from the side ends of the sheets. It is better to do this in advance than to work on the ceiling later. The work is carried out with a knife, the butt is cut off at an angle of 45 degrees to a distance of no more than 5 mm;

• Fastening starts from any corner of the room. The work is done by three people, two hold the sheet, and one grabs it with 3.5x25 mm self-tapping screws. You will not be able to cope with the installation yourself, so be sure to involve assistants. In order not to stand and not hold the material in outstretched hands, you can use mops or knock down a similar structure from the rails;

• Fastening is done every 15 cm at the edges of the sheets and every 20 cm in the middle. The distance from the edges should be at least 15 mm, so as not to crush the material. Leave a gap of 2-3 mm at the junction of the drywall sheets, the same distance should be at the junction with the walls;

Remember that the self-tapping screw must be correctly positioned on the surface. The cap should be recessed by 1-2 mm, and not stick out above the surface and not push the sheet. A diagram of the correct location of the fasteners is shown below.

• Thus, the entire surface is sheathed. Here you need to pay attention to the correct location of the screws on the joined sheets. It is better if they are not located opposite each other, but with an offset. An example of correct installation is shown in the diagram below.

Stage 5 - sealing of joints

Collecting plasterboard suspended ceilings with your own hands is still half the battle. It is necessary to properly finish them so that the surface is perfectly flat and does not crack after a year or two. Connections of elements are the most problematic areas where cracks are most often formed.

To avoid this, it is worthwhile to qualitatively strengthen them:

• First of all, you need to clean all the joints from dust. Just rub them with a dry cloth or brush them;
• Then the joints are treated with a primer. The composition is applied at a distance of 7-8 cm on both sides of the seam. Pay special attention to the ends of the sheets, try to apply the primer so that it gets into the joint;

• After the soil has dried, a serpyanka tape is glued to the seams. Everything is simple here: the material is gradually unwound and pressed against the surface. It is important that the mesh adheres over the entire area and does not stick out anywhere. You can cut it off with scissors or a knife, you should not tear the material;

• A mortar for seams "Knauf Fugen" is being prepared, you do not need to do a lot of it, since it sets in half an hour. The mass is applied to the joints and pressed with a spatula to fill all the voids. Excess composition is carefully removed with a spatula, the mass should completely cover the serpyanka mesh;

• The caps of the self-tapping screws are also sealed with small strokes. After the end of the work, neither joints nor fasteners should be visible;

• After the composition has dried, it is necessary to rub the surface with a float more to remove sagging and irregularities. There is no need for special quality, it is important to remove all noticeable flaws;
• Lastly, the surface is primed over the entire area. This strengthens the already applied compound and balances the absorbency of the substrate over the entire area.

Stage 6 - putty and paint

Now let's figure out how to align the drywall ceiling with our own hands.

The instructions for carrying out the work look like this:

• First of all, a putty composition is prepared. To do this, water is poured into the container and the required amount of dry mixture is poured (the proportions are always indicated on the package). It is important to thoroughly mix the components so that a homogeneous mass with the consistency of thick sour cream is obtained;

• Application is made from any angle. The composition is spread over the blade of a wide spatula and gently spread over the surface. The tool is held at an angle of 15 degrees to the surface and is guided with moderate pressure. Do not pay attention to the influxes, they will be eliminated later. The main thing is to distribute the composition in a thin layer over the entire ceiling;

• After the first layer has dried, you need to walk over the surface with a spatula and cut off the beads, if any. Your task is to remove all noticeable flaws so that they do not interfere with the final leveling of the surface;
• The second coat is applied very carefully, try to level the surface as best as possible. Move the spatula in a sweeping motion. If there are influxes somewhere, it's okay, they can be easily eliminated. It is important to level the overall level of the ceiling so that there are no pits and scratches on the surface from the edge of the trowel;

• After the surface has dried (and this takes about 24 hours), you can start sanding it. The work is dirty, so be sure to stock up on a respirator and goggles in advance. Sandpaper is placed on the grater and surface treatment begins section by section. You need to rub with moderate pressure in spiral movements;

• The plane is checked using a light bulb or flashlight. The directional light immediately shows all the flaws, and you can easily bring out a perfectly flat surface, even if you are doing this work for the first time;

• If there are some flaws left, then the problem areas need to be putty, after which they are sanded with a float. After that, the surface can be considered fully prepared;
• The ceiling is cleaned of dust with a brush or vacuum cleaner, after which a primer is applied. The composition is applied with a roller to the entire surface, this will strengthen the finishing layer and improve paint adhesion;

• Painting is done after the soil is completely dry. Depending on the color, it may be necessary to apply 2-3 coats of the composition for an even color.

In the process of creating a functional modern interior, the installation of a plasterboard ceiling plays a special role. A simple, but at the same time aesthetic and practical design, allows you to significantly reduce the time of work, mask surface defects, and hide communications. You can install the ceiling with your own hands, observing the installation technology.

Plasterboard base - what's included?

Before starting the installation of the plasterboard ceiling, you need to prepare the basic materials.

Considering that the structure consists of a frame, finished with plasterboard sheets, for its device you will need:

• metal profiles;
• fastening elements;
• drywall plates;
• finishing materials.

Metal profiles are the basis of the structure. These should be high-quality elements made of galvanized metal in two versions: guides and ceiling bearers. To connect the profiles, a straight U-shaped suspension is used, connectors of two types: straight and cruciform. In addition, to assemble a drywall ceiling with your own hands, you will need galvanized connecting screws and dowels.

The frame is finished using plasterboard ceiling sheets with optimal parameters: 2.5 meters long and 1.2 meters wide. The thickness of the sheets ranges from 8 to 9.5 mm.

Classic plasterboard ceiling painted in gray. By color and thickness, it can be distinguished from wall sheets, which are usually thicker. In rooms with increased moisture or a risk of fire, special sheets of drywall are used, marked "moisture resistant" or "fire resistant".

Calculation of materials for the ceiling - how to do it right

In order for the installation of drywall on the ceiling to go as smoothly as possible and without interruptions during operation, it is important to correctly calculate the amount of material to be consumed for creating a structure. To do this, first of all, the ceiling area is calculated in the standard way - multiplying the width by the length of the room (measured with a tape measure).

To calculate the required number of guide profiles, you need to find the perimeter of the room. To do this, add up the lengths of the walls. At this stage, it is important to measure each of the walls separately in order to eliminate possible errors in the process of calculating the required number of profiles, since the lengths are not always the same.

To calculate how much material the installation of a bearing-type profile will require, it is enough to remember that the first and last elements are mounted at a distance of 30 cm from the wall, when the distance between the other profiles is no more than 60 cm.The number of the bearing profile is found by multiplying the number of rows by the length ceiling.

The supporting profile is fastened with U-shaped straight hangers with a step of one meter. Determining the required number of suspensions is simple if you divide the total length of the profile by one meter.

To increase the rigidity of the frame between the guides and the supporting profiles, special jumpers will be required with a step of 60 cm. The number of cross-shaped connectors for jumpers is found by dividing the length of the supporting profile by the fastening step. As for the second type of connectors - straight ones, their number is calculated taking into account the length of the room, since the elements are fastened along the length of the profiles.

The last stage - fixing drywall sheets also requires accurate preliminary calculations. To finish the frame of the ceiling structure, you will need exactly the same number of plates, which is equal to the area of ​​the ceiling. Compensation consumption is also taken into account, adding from 3% to 5% of the material to the total amount.

Markup is a responsible start

Regardless of the complexity of the design, the initial stage is always marking. Only with the marking can it be considered that the technology of installing drywall on a pre-arranged frame is fully observed.

Begin by determining the lowest point on the horizontal surface of the ceiling. The easiest way to do this is with a laser level or, in the absence of one, a conventional water level. In a certain place they put a mark - this will be the height of the plasterboard ceiling. It is important that it is at least 3 centimeters below the lowest side of the base. This will be the bottom of the guide profile. In the case of a planned illuminated ceiling, the line is lowered a few centimeters lower.

Do the same with the rest of the walls. On each of them they put a corresponding mark, again, using the level for reliability. It is important to ensure that there are no air bubbles inside the level during measurements.

The final stage of marking is the connection of the marked points with the help of a chopping thread into a solid line and marking of the lines for attaching the suspensions on the ceiling surface with a step of 0.6 m.

The main stage of the process is the assembly of the frame

There is nothing difficult in assembling the frame with your own hands, if you follow the step-by-step instructions.

They start with the installation of the guide profile along the marked line around the perimeter of the room. U-shaped suspensions are fixed on the ceiling surface. Carrying profiles are cut (1 cm shorter), according to the marking, they are fixed in the guides, additionally strengthening the structure with self-tapping screws.

At the next stage, the suspensions are bent and attached to the profile, pulling the thread in order to avoid sagging of the bearing elements.

As soon as the longitudinal elements are finally fixed, the crossbars are cut and fixed with crabs.

The classic scheme for mounting a profile implies that the joints of the hl are in the middle of the profile, which will only work if there are a number of crossbars at a distance of 2.5 meters from the wall, which acts as a starting point for the installation of hl.

Plasterboard finishing - the final stage

Sheets of drywall are attached to the finished frame with self-tapping screws. It is more convenient to fasten sheets without preliminary cutting, thus reducing the number of joints and seams. In order to properly mount drywall, it is necessary to measure its quantity in advance, prepare sheets on a horizontal surface. The more accurately the installation is performed with the drowning of the heads of the self-tapping screws into the surface of the hl, the smoother the finished ceiling will turn out.

An important stage is filling joints and seams between sheets. A responsible approach at this stage will prevent the appearance of cracks in the ceiling during operation. For reliable fixation of the seams, a reinforcing tape is used, on top of which a layer of putty mixture with a leveling property is applied. As soon as the surface dries, it is additionally smoothed with sandpaper.

In places of contact with the wall, the installation of HL is performed using a sealing tape. Fasten it before the sheets are fixed. Remove the tape only after filling the gaps with a putty mixture. The finished ceiling is primed, treated with putty, sanded, re-primed and only then painted with paint.

How to install a curved ceiling

The classic installation of ceiling plasterboard on a frame under a curved ceiling is somewhat different from the previous installation option. In order to install a non-standard design, the following algorithm is followed:

1. The first tier of the frame is mounted in the traditional way, as required by the instructions above.
2. Carry out the marking of the guide profiles around the perimeter of the room.
3. Profiles PNx28 × 27 are installed along the marking line, fixing them with self-tapping screws and dowels.
4. The bearing profiles are fixed in the pre-installed profiles using suspensions and with a step of 600 mm.
5. In the zones of passage of the curved profile, the step is reduced to 400 mm.
6. Plasterboard sheets are attached to the finished frame so that they extend beyond 10 cm to the curved line of the ceiling bend.
7. Sheets are fastened with a pitch of not more than 250 mm.
8. After finishing the finishing of the first level, outline the wave line.
9. At a distance equal to the thickness of the sheets, a curved profile is attached from the mark (use metal scissors to cut the sides).
10. The profile is pulled through the hl to the main frame.
11. Any technology from the manufacturer further implies the manufacture of a second level frame. The more levels are planned, the smaller should be the step of fixing hl.
12. The finished frame is hemmed with gypsum board with a margin of a centimeter for further work with bending.
13. Given the direction of the bend, the lower profile is attached, corresponding to the location of the upper line.
14. The upper and lower parts of the curved frame are tied with profile posts, finished with plasterboard in a vertical plane. For curved areas, a 6.5 mm sheet is suitable.

The final stage of the installation of drywall sheets is supplemented with plastic corners designed to mask the protruding outer corners of the arcs. The joints are treated with a reinforcing tape, putty. The surface of the finished ceiling, as in the case of its classic version, is primed, treated with putty, polished and painted.

Features of installing a curved ceiling: what is useful to know

Considering that we are talking about a not quite standard solution for a plasterboard ceiling, there are several important points to consider.

First, the higher level is attached to the frame, which subsequently serves as a supporting base for the curved frame profiles of the next level.

Secondly, the curved element is attached through the already hemmed plasterboard sheet to the underlying base frame. If there is no profile in the fixation zone of the metal arc behind the sheet, then it will be necessary to additionally place a gasket under it to screw in the fasteners, otherwise the sheet may not withstand the load. Trims of fiberboard, profile or plywood are suitable for the role of a gasket.

Thirdly, the profile can be bent in two ways: wet and dry. The first option is suitable for small bending radii, the second will allow you to embody smooth transitions.

Fourthly, the type of drywall sheets is of great importance. You need to understand that the installation of gvl, suitable for the installation of a ceiling in public places with increased load, is not suitable for the installation of a curved ceiling. To achieve the correct bends of the material, it is better to use sheets with a minimum thickness, additionally piercing the surface with a needle roller.

Along with the rapid development of the building materials industry and technologies, ceiling tiles, whitewashed or painted with water-based paint, are irrevocably a thing of the past. In modern reality, there are many ways to decorate ceilings, which to varying degrees can give coziness and comfort to both the living room and the public space, one of these ways is a plasterboard ceiling with your own hands.

You can use a low-cost method and paste over the floor panels with foam ceiling "squares", but the aesthetics and design of such a ceiling will leave much to be desired.

Due to the reasonable price and decent quality, stretch ceilings have acquired a high level of popularity among Russians. But it will be very difficult for a home craftsman to realize his own design ideas without special equipment and certain skills.

Advantages of a plasterboard ceiling

The optimal solution for decorative ceiling finishing is gypsum plasterboard (GKL). To create an original suspended ceiling from plasterboard with your own hands is not a super task for any home craftsman. Due to the physical and technological properties of modern building material, the following advantages of its use in the construction of a suspended ceiling can be distinguished:

• Formation of the ideal plane of the ceiling.
• The combination of rigidity and lightness of the material makes it possible to mount multi-level ceiling structures.
• Possibility of installing a decorative lighting system from LED spotlights with local illumination of individual ceiling elements.
• Manufacturability of gypsum board processing allows you to create volumetric architectural forms of complex curvilinear configuration.
• The finishing of the ceiling allows for repeated updating or changing the color of the coating.
• The low cost of raw materials and linear production technology allow keeping the cost of building materials at an affordable level.

When choosing the optimal solution, you must be guided not only by your financial capabilities: "glue", "pull" and "create" - these verbs imply not only a different design result, but also the satisfaction of the master from the final result of his work.

Decorating the ceiling with plasterboard with your own hands includes several stages:

1. Project preparation.
2. Calculation of the need for consumables.
3. The need for a tool.
4. Ceiling decoration with plasterboard sheets.
5. Preliminary and final finishing of the ceiling covering.

Attention! When installing a plasterboard suspended ceiling with your own hands, do not forget about protective equipment - glasses and a respirator. Health is more important than your repair!

Project preparation

On the World Wide Web, you can find photographs of many interesting design solutions for ceilings using gypsum board. With the help of drywall, you can create multi-level structures, and harmoniously inscribed lamps will add originality and attractiveness to the future ceiling.

When preparing a project, do not forget about two key parameters of the renovated premises:

• Total area. In a room with an area of ​​8-14 sq.m. the design of a tiered ceiling will most likely not be appreciated. With a small area of ​​\ u200b \ u200bthe room, the angle of visual perception will not allow you to adequately focus your gaze on the elements of the ceiling decor. The area is more than 14 sq.m. gives more possibilities for the application of architectural delights and light sources built into the ceiling. Any interesting ideas can be realized on a ceiling area exceeding 20 square meters.
• Ceiling height. It must be remembered that a ceiling that is too bulky will visually reduce the volume of the room and create unnecessary discomfort for the people inside. It makes sense to start work on a project of a multi-level plasterboard ceiling if the ceiling height in the room is not lower than 2.5 m.

The results of the project can be drawn in special programs with their 3D visualization, and in the absence of such an opportunity - on plain paper with an indication of all linear geometric dimensions.

Calculating the need for consumables

1. Drywall. A standard drywall sheet has dimensions of 1200 x 2500 mm and an area of ​​3 sq. m. Knowing the future configuration of the ceiling, you can easily calculate the required volume of gypsum plasterboard, taking into account waste.
2. To choose the type of drywall used in the project, it is necessary to take into account the humidity and flammability of the room. Depending on the additives in the gypsum core and the impregnation of the cardboard with special compounds, ordinary, moisture-resistant, fire-resistant and moisture-fire-resistant gypsum plasterboards are distinguished. The belonging of the material to one or another type can be determined by the color of the sheet itself and by the color of the marking.
3. Metal frame elements. Guide profile (PN 28/27) and ceiling profile (PP 60/27). The PN profile is rigidly attached to the walls through dowels and serves as a contour for the future metal frame. The PP profile is inserted into the PN profile, connected to it with self-tapping screws and fixed to the ceiling with hangers on anchor bolts. To give a curved shape, a perforated arched profile is used.
4. The guide profile is mounted on 4 walls, its requirement is equal to the perimeter of the ceiling. The ceiling profile is installed with a grid with a cell of 400 or 600 mm, depending on the size of the opening.
5. When installing a metal frame under the gypsum board, there are 2 types of profiles:

• Connecting elements and hardware. For fastening the guide profiles to the wall, plastic dowels 6x60 or 8x60 with a corresponding self-tapping screw are used. It is better to fasten the suspensions to the existing ceiling with anchor bolts, since a plastic dowel does not give a 100% guarantee of holding the structure of significant weight. The elements of the metal frame are connected to each other with self-tapping screws for metal 2x16 with a press washer. The parts cut out from the gypsum board are attached to the metal frame with self-tapping screws for metal 3x25 with a pitch of 250 mm.
• The hangers rigidly fix the ceiling profiles to the existing floor panels and are installed 300 mm from the guide profile with a subsequent step of 600 mm. The required number of suspensions can be calculated by dividing the total length of the PP profile by 0.6 and taking a margin of 10%. For the end joining of ceiling profiles and stiffening the cellular frame, metal connectors for building up, crabs, T-shaped connectors and connectors in 2 levels are used.

The need for a tool

Do-it-yourself installation of drywall on the ceiling requires the following tool:

1. A high-quality level with a length of 1500 mm, and for the convenience of work, there is also a short level (300 mm).
2. A tape measure and a marker for drawing marks will be found in the arsenal of any home craftsman.
3. The absence of a chopping thread can be replaced with a long level, but the absence of a square will be problematic to replace.
4. To cut parts of the required length from a profile, you will need metal scissors. Expensive scissors will initially provide comfort when working. But, it is far from a fact that their spring-loaded wringing mechanism will last a long time. It is perfectly acceptable to have an antique sample made of good tool steel in stock.
5. For drilling holes in supporting structures, in the absence of a powerful hammer drill, it is quite possible to do with a drill with a percussion mode and an appropriate drill with a high-quality victorious tip.
6. You can find a lot of information on the net about the advantages and disadvantages of cordless screwdrivers. But to mount a two-level plasterboard ceiling with your own hands or the simplest ceiling structure without his participation is out of the question.
7. For cutting gypsum plasterboard of any thickness and grade, an ordinary construction knife is suitable. The main thing is to stock up on a set of replaceable blades in a timely manner.
8. To ensure a comfortable working environment, the home craftsman will need a stepladder and telescopic stops for intermediate fixing of plasterboard parts. However, homemade wooden props won't work much worse.

The main task of this stage of work is to tie the future plasterboard ceiling to the horizon. The level is used to find the corner of the room with the lowest point of the ceiling. Stepping back down by 35 mm (the width of the PN profile plus a small margin for the measurement error), a control risk is given. The transfer of the control risk relative to the horizon to other corners is performed at the same level.

After the final marking of the plane, a guide profile is drilled to the supporting structures of the walls, which provides rigid fixation of the geometry of the ceiling relative to the horizon line. It is allowed to join the length of the existing profile without connecting strips.

The ceiling profile is placed in the profile guides and temporarily fixed with self-tapping screws with a press washer. After this operation, the hangers are attached to the ceiling using anchor bolts with a pitch of 600 mm. The final installation of the ceiling profiles in a given geometric position is carried out by double-sided connection of the curved suspension and the profile through a self-tapping screw. The parts of the suspensions protruding beyond the plane of the ceiling are cut off with scissors for metal or bent along the existing notches. The control of the operation is carried out by a short level.

The cell in the metal frame system and the difference between the height levels of the ceiling is formed due to the corresponding connectors.

Installation of internal wiring is carried out under the metal frame until the final closing of the plasterboard ceiling. Two-core copper cable with a cross section of 1.5 sq. mm in PVC insulation, it is recommended to additionally lay it in a fire-resistant corrugated cable channel.

If it is necessary to connect the lighting sources in parallel, the wiring connections are placed in closed junction boxes. To extend the length of the electrical cable, special "terminal blocks" of diameter corresponding to the cross-section of the cable are used. The outlet ends of the cable are cut at a distance of 150 mm from the outlet point of the energy consumer.

Installing a plasterboard ceiling with lighting with your own hands is much easier than it really seems. The whole secret lies in the correct design of the location of the spotlights and the accuracy of the installation of the wiring terminals.

Ceiling decoration with plasterboard sheets

Cutting and installation of parts made of gypsum board can be started only after the ceiling is completely strapped with metal frame elements. Given the low fracture resistance of gypsum plasterboards, it is recommended to store the sheets in an upright position with two or three wooden pads installed downward. GKL marking and cutting is carried out both horizontally and vertically. To effectively cut drywall, there is no need for multiple cuts with a construction knife - one deep cut is enough.

If the work on the installation of the false ceiling is carried out by a home craftsman alone, then it makes sense to cut whole sheets into smaller elements. In this case, it will be much easier to install them. It is important to combine the joint of the gypsum plasterboard with the PP profile installed in the metal frame, followed by puttying of the joint.

Before installing the parts from the gypsum board, it is necessary to mark and cut a hole for the lamps. Cutting an octagonal hole with subsequent finishing to a circle is done an order of magnitude faster than cutting a circle.

Before installing the cut out part, it is necessary to apply centering marks to the visible places for each profile of the metal frame.

The drilling of the sheet must be started from one corner simultaneously in two directions with a self-tapping screw pitch of 250 - 300 mm. Self-tapping screws at the joints of the metal frame elements will give it additional rigidity. It is important to ensure that the head of the screwed-in self-tapping screw is slightly sunk into the plane of the gypsum board. This can be achieved by adjusting the "ratchet" on the screwdriver or using a special bit with a stop.

To hold large-format parts in an upright position, it is recommended to use purchased telescopic rods or wooden supports made by yourself for the height of the room being repaired.

Preliminary and final finishing of the ceiling covering

The dry plaster mixture is evenly poured into cold water in the proportion indicated in the instructions on the package, and stirred until a homogeneous creamy state. To prepare the batch, it is recommended to use a mixer attachment to the electric drill. In contrast to manual kneading, the productivity and quality of the putty mixture will be an order of magnitude higher.

In the process of preliminary finishing, the joints and caps of the self-tapping screws are putty. After the putty has completely dried, it is cleaned with an emery mesh and defects are corrected.

Finishing puttying is carried out by uniformly applying a thin layer of putty mixture on the entire surface of the ceiling using a wide spatula, followed by cleaning.

Now the plasterboard ceiling with our own hands will delight everyone in your house.