Components of the home unit

Usually contains the following constituent elements:

• the bed, which is the supporting frame of the entire structure, which must be particularly durable so as not to break when vibrated during its action;
• the drive, which is the main part of the mechanism, which is responsible for the power of its action (you can use the drive of a drill or washing equipment);
• a tailstock made of a steel plate element with a steel corner welded to it for fixing metal products when working on this unit;
• headstock, similar to the tailstock, only installed on the moving part of the frame structure;
• driven and driven centers on the tailstock;
• a support that serves as a thrust mechanism in the active part of the unit.

Lathe structure

• torque to the working part of the device from the engine can be produced in different ways, for example, install the working part on the motor shaft itself or use a friction, belt or chain drive;
• to install a belt drive, which is quite inexpensive with a fairly high level of reliability, it is quite possible to use a belt removed from the electric motor of another device (you just need to remember that belts wear out over time and must be replaced frequently);
• installing a chain drive will be more expensive, take up more space, but it will last longer than a belt drive;
• when installing a friction gear, it is important to understand that its characteristics correspond to the intermediate data between the action of the chain and belt drives.

Machine device

If we consider the drawing of a home turning device, then it is obvious that its headstock consists of the following elements:

• V-belt;
• two-stage pulley;
• spindle;
• ball bearing.

The tailstock in a lathe contains the following parts:

• frame;
• Centre;
• two handles;
• quill;
• three screws;
• flywheel;
• traction;
• lever arm;
• screw.

It should be borne in mind that the driven center is located on the tailstock and can be both dynamic and stationary. Such a center can be made from a simple bolt sharpened at one end, giving it a tapered shape. They are treated with technical oil (grease), inserted inside.

The tailstock is made in a similar manner using the same taper bolt and locknut.

Homemade metal lathe

Support

This part of the device, which serves as an emphasis on the working surface, is located on the sliding "slide" along specially placed guides. The caliper generally moves in three specific directions:

• longitudinal, to move the working part of the machine along the workpiece to be processed, used to carve a thread in parts, to remove chamfers;
• transverse, used to grind all kinds of holes, depressions, recesses;
• oblique, produced at different angles, also used for turning different recesses on the surface of workpieces.

If you look at the drawing of the caliper, you will notice that it includes the following details:

• transverse sled;
• lead screw;
• guides;
• holder for the cutter;
• screw for fastening it;
• carriage;
• swivel part;
• handle for turning the tool holder;
• handle for moving the upper part;
• the upper part of the caliper;
• flywheel for longitudinal movements;
• nuts;
• a handle for moving the sled;
• apron;
• transverse guides;
• lever to turn on the flow from the lead screw.

To make a caliper yourself, you need to take into account that it is subject to significant wear due to the vibration that occurs during its operation. As a result, the fasteners can loosen, a backlash appears, which does not contribute to the good quality of the parts produced on it. To avoid such troubles, it is recommended to constantly adjust the caliper, adjust it.

A few tips for adjusting the machine slide:

• it becomes necessary to adjust the gaps if the screw, which is responsible for movement in the longitudinal and transverse planes, is worn out;
• due to the resulting friction, the caliper may begin to stagger under loads, which leads to a decrease in the accuracy of the parts being manufactured;
• to eliminate the gaps between the guides, wedges can be inserted;
• to eliminate backlash in parts, they usually use a fixing screw;
• in case of severe wear of the oil seals, you need to rinse them well, then soak them with fresh technical oil, and, if necessary, replace them with new ones.

If all the operations to restore the oil seals did not help, you will have to purchase new ones

Self-assembly of the machine

If you look at the assembly drawing of a home turning device, you can see that it includes the following parts:

• tailstock;
• running pipe;
• channels;
• support;
• a pallet for collecting shavings;
• electric motor;
• lead screw;
• headstock;
• lamp in a special protective cap;
• support;
• mesh screen for protection from swarf.

To build a mini-lathe with your own hands, you need to adhere to a certain order:

• make the frame of the device from metal beams, and it is desirable that the thickness of the material used be at least 3 mm for corners and at least 30 mm for rods;
• install special longitudinal shafts on the channels, welded or bolted;
• make a headstock using a hydraulic cylinder with a wall thickness of at least 6 mm (2 bearings must be pressed into the cylinder);
• lay the shaft using bearings of a slightly larger diameter;
• then fill the hydraulic cylinder with lubricant;
• mount the electric drive.

Such a miniature lathe, made independently, can serve not only for turning purposes, but even perform operations for grinding products, polishing them, if a grinding wheel is attached to it.

Engine

One of the most important parts included in a home-made metal lathe with your own hands is an electric motor, with the assistance of which the working parts of the device can actually be moved.

In the case when it is supposed to perform lathe work with small parts on the machine, the power of the electric motor may be small (up to 1 kW), it is convenient to remove the motor from an old-style electric sewing machine or use another similar electrical device.

If it is supposed to work with large parts on the machine, an electric motor with a power of 1.5 to 2 kW may be required.

When assembling such a machine yourself, you must definitely pay attention that all electrical parts of the assembled device are reliably insulated.

Drill machine

To make it easier for yourself to work on arranging a home machine, you can take a simple electric drill for the drive.

DIY lathe with a drill

Such a lathe from a drill has a number of advantages:

• this device can be assembled very quickly, and, if necessary, disassembled (if the drill needs to be used for its intended purpose), then reassemble it;
• this lathe from a drill is compact, easy to carry, transported to any place (you can bring it into the garage, for example, or, conversely, take it out into the street);
• profitable and economical, since the drill replaces the electric motor, which means that there is no need to use the gear;
• convenient because interchangeable drill bits can be used as necessary working tools.

The disadvantages of a do-it-yourself lathe from a drill include the inability to process large parts on it.

If a grinding wheel is attached to the electric motor of a manufactured metal lathe, then knives, scissors and various household tools can be sharpened on it.

A lathe is needed for the manufacture and processing of metal parts. Professional equipment is quite expensive, so in order to save money, you can make a homemade metal lathe with your own hands. This can be done in several ways, and drawings of such a product are easily found on the Internet. You can use improvised materials for manufacturing, the size of the machine can be any.

Any homemade lathe consists of the following elements:

• drive - the main part of the mechanism, which is responsible for its power. Choosing a drive with the required power is one of the most difficult tasks. In small lathes for metal with your own hands, you can use a drive from an ordinary washing machine or drill. Usually, the power of this element starts from 200 W, and the number of revolutions per minute - from 1500;
• frame - the supporting frame of the structure, which can be made of wooden blocks or steel angle. The bed must be characterized by high strength, otherwise the entire structure may fall apart from vibrations during operation;

• tailstock - made of a steel plate and a steel angle welded to it. The plate rests against the guides of the bed, and the main purpose of the tailstock of the lathe with your own hands is to fix the metal part during processing;
• headstock - a part similar to the tailstock, but mounted on a movable frame;
• master and slave centers;
• support - a thrust mechanism for the working part.

The torque from the engine to the working part of the machine can be transmitted in several ways. Someone prefers to directly install the working part on the motor shaft - this saves space and saves on spare parts. If this option is not possible, the torque can be transmitted using a friction, belt or chain drive. Each of these options has advantages and disadvantages.

The belt drive for the electric motor is the cheapest and is characterized by a fairly high level of reliability. For its manufacture, you can use a belt for an electric motor, removed from any other mechanism. The disadvantage of a belt drive is that over time the belt can wear out and will have to be changed the more often the more intensively you work with the machine.

A chain drive is more expensive and takes up more space, but it will also last much longer than a belt drive. Friction transmission has intermediate characteristics between belt and chain.

Helpful advice! When assembling a lathe, select the gear type that best suits your application. For example, for a mini-lathe with your own hands, it is better to install the working part directly on the shaft.

DIY lathe support: drawings, how to make from scrap materials

The caliper is one of the most important parts of a homemade lathe - the quality of the future part depends on it, as well as the amount of time and effort that you will spend on its manufacture. This part is located on a special slide that moves along the guides located on the bed. The caliper can move in three directions:

• longitudinal - the working part of the machine moves along the workpiece. Longitudinal motion is used to grind a thread in a part or to remove a layer of material from the surface of a metal workpiece;

• transverse - movement perpendicular to the workpiece axis. Used to grind grooves and holes;
• oblique - movement at different angles to grind grooves on the surface of the workpiece.

When making a do-it-yourself lathe caliper, it is worth considering the moment that this part is subject to wear as a result of vibrations arising during operation. Because of them, the fasteners loosen, there is a backlash, all this affects the quality of the part being manufactured. In order to avoid such problems, the caliper must be regularly adjusted and adjusted.

Do-it-yourself adjustment of a self-made caliper for a lathe is carried out according to gaps, backlash and oil seals. Clearance adjustment is needed when the screw is worn out, which is responsible for moving the part in the longitudinal and transverse planes. As a result of friction, the caliper begins to loosen under loads, which significantly reduces the accuracy of the part. You can eliminate gaps by inserting wedges between the rails and the carriage. The backlash of the part is eliminated by means of the fixing screw.

If the oil seals in your machine are worn out, they should be thoroughly rinsed and soaked in fresh engine oil. In case of critical wear, it is better to completely replace the oil seals with new ones.

Homemade metal lathe with your own hands: assembly procedure

The assembly of the mechanism is carried out in the following order:

1. The frame of the machine is assembled from metal beams and channels. If you are going to work with large parts, then the materials for assembling the frame must be used with the expectation of a large load. For example, if you plan to work with metal workpieces over 50 mm long, the thickness of the materials for the frame should start from 3 mm for the corners and from 30 mm for the rods.
2. Longitudinal shafts with guides are installed on channels. The shafts can be welded or bolted.
3. The headstock is being manufactured. To make the headstock of a lathe with your own hands, a hydraulic cylinder with a wall thickness of 6 mm is used. Two bearings must be pressed into the cylinder.
4. The shaft is being laid. For this, bearings with a large inner diameter are used.
5. The hydraulic cylinder is filled with lubricant.
6. A pulley and a caliper with guides are installed.
7. The electric drive is being mounted.

In addition, according to the drawings of a metal lathe with your own hands, you can see that to increase the stability of the cutting mechanism, a handcuff is made, and a thin strip of metal is fixed on the lower part of the structure. The latter serves to protect the working part of the machine from deformation during operation.

Helpful advice! A self-assembled metal lathe can be used not only for its intended purpose, but also for grinding and polishing metal parts. For this, a grinding wheel is connected to the electric shaft.

Choosing an electric motor for the machine

The most important part of a homemade metal lathe, the production video of which can be easily found on the Internet, is the electric motor. It is with its help that the movement of the working part of the machine is carried out. Accordingly, the power of the entire structure depends on the power of this mechanism. It is chosen depending on the size of the metal blanks with which you plan to work.

If you plan to work on a machine with small parts, a motor with a power of up to 1 kW is quite suitable for this. It can be removed from an old sewing machine or any other similar electrical appliance. To work with large parts, you need an engine with a power of 1.5-2 kW.

When assembling according to ready-made drawings of a homemade metal lathe, keep in mind that all electrical parts of the structure must be reliably insulated. If you do not have the necessary experience with electrical equipment, it is best to seek help with connecting to a specialist. So you will be sure of safe operation and reliability of the design.

Making a lathe from a drill with your own hands

If you want to save on spare parts and greatly simplify the task of assembling a homemade lathe, you can use a regular electric drill as a drive. This constructive solution has a number of advantages:

1. The ability to quickly assemble and disassemble the structure - the drill is easily detached from the bed and can be used for its intended purpose.
2. Easy to carry and transport the machine is a good option if you have to work with metal workpieces in the garage and outdoors.
3. Savings - the drill acts not only as an electric motor, but also eliminates the need to use a gear, and also allows the use of interchangeable nozzles as a working tool.

Of course, there are also downsides to a drill lathe. How to make machining of large parts possible with this tool? This is practically impracticable as the drill has relatively low torque and high RPM. Of course, you can increase these parameters if you still install a belt drive and, with its help, transfer the torque from the drill to the spindle, but this will greatly complicate the design, the main advantage of which is simplicity and compactness.

Making a homemade desktop metal lathe based on a drill makes sense in cases where you do not need to carry out large-scale work, and only small parts need to be turned.

To make a metal lathe based on an electric drill, you need the same parts as for a conventional design, with the exception of the electric motor and headstock. The role of the latter is also performed by a drill. Given the compact design, a regular table or workbench can be used as a bed, on which all the components of the machine will be fixed. The drill itself is fixed in the structure with a clamp and a clamp.

Helpful advice! The functionality of an electric drill-based lathe can be significantly expanded by adding various attachments and accessories to its design.

With the help of a home-made lathe, you can not only grind parts, but also apply paint to a rotating workpiece, wind wire onto a transformer, make spiral notches on the surface of a part, and perform many other actions. In addition, if you assemble a copier attachment for the machine, then with its help you can quickly and effortlessly produce small identical parts.

Features of the work of lathes for metal with their own hands, video instructions as a way to avoid mistakes

Like any other equipment, homemade lathes have their own characteristics that must be taken into account when assembling and operating. For example, when working with large parts or when using a powerful electric motor, strong vibrations occur, which can lead to serious errors in the processing of the part. To get rid of vibrations, the driving and driven centers of the machine must be set on the same axis. And if you plan to install only the driving center, a cam mechanism must be attached to it.

In do-it-yourself desktop lathes for metal, it is not recommended to install a collector motor. It is prone to spontaneous increase in the number of revolutions, which can lead to the flyout of the part. This, in turn, can lead to work-related injuries or property damage. If, however, you cannot do without installing a collector motor, it is imperative to install a gearbox with it to reduce the speed.

The ideal motor option for a homemade lathe is an asynchronous one. It does not increase the speed during operation, is resistant to heavy loads and allows you to work with metal workpieces with a width of up to 100 mm.

The rules for installing and operating any type of electric motor for a lathe can be viewed in numerous video instructions on the Internet. With their help, you will not only avoid common mistakes during assembly, but also save time and effort thanks to the clarity of the material.

Safety precautions when working with a homemade lathe

When working with the structure, certain safety measures should be observed. So, after assembling the machine, you need to check its performance. The spindle should rotate easily and without lag, and the front and rear centers should be aligned with the common axis. The center of symmetry of the rotating part must coincide with its axis of rotation.

On any video of a lathe with your own hands, you can see that after installing the electric motor, it is covered with a special casing. The latter serves not only to protect the machine operator, but also to protect the motor itself from dust, metal particles and dirt. For a machine made on the basis of an electric drill, such a cover is not needed.

Helpful advice! If you are planning to install a structure based on a powerful electric motor, then be sure to make sure that your electrical network has enough power to work with it. At home, it is better to get by with a motor from household appliances, which will definitely work from the voltage in your outlet.

You should also adhere to the following safety rules:

1. The working tool must be located parallel to the surface of the workpiece to be machined. Otherwise, it may fall off and damage the machine.
2. If you are machining face planes, the part should rest against the tailstock. In this case, it is very important to observe the alignment, otherwise you risk getting a defective part.
3. To protect your eyes from metal shavings and particles, you can build a special shield or just use protective goggles.
4. After work, the structure must be cleaned by removing metal filings and other production wastes. Make sure that small parts do not fall into the motor.

Options for upgrading a homemade lathe

If you need a mechanism that can not only perform turning work, but also grind and paint a workpiece, the basic machine can be easily modified. It is best to do this for an electric drill-based design, since it is easiest to replace the working part in it.

There are several popular modifications of a metal lathe. How to make a tapered hole? To do this, two files must be attached to the base so that they form a trapezoid. After that, a spring mechanism is mounted, which ensures that the files are fed forward and at an angle, which allows you to drill tapered holes in the workpiece.

In addition, a machine with a collapsible base can be made to work with metal parts of different lengths. With the help of several boards or metal corners, you can bring the working tool closer or further to the fasteners holding the part, and also change the size of the gap between the fasteners. It is most convenient to make such a structure on the basis of an ordinary table or workbench.

If you attach a grinding wheel to the electric motor as a working tool, you can use the machine not only to polish the surface of the part, but also sharpen knives, scissors and other household tools. Thus, the lathe turns into a convenient multifunctional mechanism.

Assembling a lathe at home is a fairly simple task, which is further simplified by numerous video instructions and drawings from the Internet. At the same time, the structure can be assembled literally from scrap parts, using for this old household appliances and waste from assembly and construction production.

The main benefit of self-assembly is cost savings. In addition, it is worth noting the ability to independently adjust the dimensions and power of the device in order to adapt it to your needs. A homemade machine can be not only large, but also very miniature, designed for processing small parts.

In the process of repairing equipment, many men are engaged in the manufacture of the necessary metal blanks in their own workshop. Turning work requires precision and skill. You can give the necessary shape and parameters to metal products using a special machine, additional equipment and tools. Therefore, craftsmen successfully make a multifunctional metal lathe with their own hands.

How to use a metal lathe

A modern industrial machine has a number of characteristics that allow you to perform many different operations. Such a device is equipped with a numerical software device and has a complex structure. For a do-it-yourself lathe, you do not need so many functions. It is enough to make a universal mechanical installation that will be conveniently placed on the table in the garage.

The main work performed on homemade milling equipment:

• internal surface treatment, reaming of the workpiece;
• turning a cone, groove;
• threading;
• shaped turning;
• trimming ledges and sharp edges;
• turning of cylinders.

The metal lathe is used to machine nuts, bushings, couplings, pulleys, shafts and gears. From such parts, blanks are obtained that allow you to create or improve various mechanisms. Depending on the equipment used, it is fashionable to process not only metal products, but also wooden or plastic blanks on the unit.

A do-it-yourself metal lathe is a full-fledged equipment with a power unit, it has a lot of weight and creates vibration. Before making such a device, it is necessary to carefully consider the design of all the details.

The mini machine for home use has 4 main elements:

1. Frame.
2. Caliper and tool holder.
3. Headstock and tailstock.

Frame

This assembly is designed to secure all equipment in a rigid position. As a base, the bed must be strong and not skewed. The machine can be placed on a table or made a floor version by increasing the length of the support. Such a cast bed is made from channels and metal corners. The frame elements are connected by welding or bolted.

Support

Such an element supports the cutting device and is able to move in a predetermined direction and plane for efficient processing of workpieces. If it is necessary to create complex and non-standard surfaces, you should pay special attention to the fastening of this node. For smooth movement in the horizontal direction, a screw mechanism is used in the apron. The caliper remains movable, but if necessary, it can be fixed. The cutters in the tool holder must be tightly clamped, backlash increases the risk of injury during operation.

Headstock and tailstock

A gearbox is located in the spindle headstock, which provides a different spindle rotation speed, adjustment of the torque value. In addition, the headstock consists of a turning head and a caliper feeding device. The headstock secures the workpiece.

The headstock at the back of the mechanism ensures that the workpiece or tool is firmly held in the desired direction. Such a unit has the function of cutting threads on a metal lathe.

DIY step-by-step assembly of turning equipment

A homemade lathe is made up of parts that can be found in a garage or workshop. Before proceeding with the processing and assembly of the device, it is necessary to carefully consider the design and characteristics of the unit, its location in the workshop.

Necessary materials

As materials, you can use the tools at hand:

• welded frame (replaces the cast bed);
• power unit - any motor with an electric drive with a power of 800-1500 W from household appliances (a good option is an asynchronous motor);
• belts of different lengths can be used as a driving stone;
• screws and nuts for fastening the structure;
• guides, steel bar skids;
• spindle and tailstock (it is better to find ready-made parts, but you can make them from a shaped pipe or a piece of metal sheet);
• feed screws - for a do-it-yourself lathe, long rods with a thread in the longitudinal and transverse directions are suitable;
• rolling bearings as elements of rotation;
• squalls of different diameters;
• steel plate at least 8 mm thick - for the caliper and tool holder.

Where to get a lathe project

An important step in creating a homemade lathe is the design and drawing of a diagram indicating the dimensions of the device. As a basis, you can use examples of factory products or drawings of masters, which are freely available on the Internet.

Standard dimensions of turning equipment: 115x62x18 cm. These parameters are considered optimal for work.

Manufacturing process

Making a metal lathe with your own hands is carried out in accordance with a step-by-step guide for the main units:

1. Formation of the frame according to the drawing data. The pipes are cut and welded together, it is important that the corners are even.
2. Creation of side racks (for this it is better to use another milling machine).
3. Collecting the support installation, connecting the racks with the guides, installing the spacer sleeves on the sides.
4. Fixing bushings for tailstock. If you use these parts in different sizes, you can achieve a larger stroke.
5. Creation of a platform for the caliper.
6. Installation of the lead screw, fastening the steering wheel and vernier to it.
7. Installation of the headstock platform.
8. Fastening to the headstock machine.
9. Creation of a support and a tool holder.
10. Formation of the engine subframe.
11. Installation of the power unit and its connection to the mains.
12. Test run at idle speed.

A do-it-yourself metal lathe is quite easy to make. It is important to maintain the design parameters, ensure a rigid connection and select a suitable motor.

Video: How to make a metal lathe with your own hands

Despite the large assortment of factory-made equipment, its use in everyday life is usually inconvenient or impractical. Impressive dimensions (and weight), a variety of functions (some of them are unlikely to be in demand by a “craftsman”) and a number of other points - all this suggests whether it makes sense to spend money on purchasing a metal lathe? Moreover, the price of the cheapest desktop model is about 46,800 rubles.

With how to make a lathe from scratch, with our own hands, we will figure it out in detail, then - recommendations on the choice of materials and the procedure for assembling the machine. It is useful tips and examples of drawings, since making something with your own hands is a creative process; therefore, there simply cannot be “hard” standards. The given picking diagram is just a reminder of.

It is advisable to simplify the design of a lathe for home use. Some of the components can be modernized (modified), and something can be abandoned altogether. For example, complex automation, feed boxes with gears and EMF. And the movable element of the tailstock - the quill - is hardly of great importance for a homemade lathe.

Choice of materials

There are a variety of tips, including that for the manufacture of individual elements of the machine, you can use wood in the form of a board and a bar. The reasoning is that such an assembly is not a big problem and is relatively fast.

I would like to note that they will arise, but later, and very tangible. The "wooden" machine will not last long. Simply put, it will work, but you will have to forget about the accuracy of the operations. A lathe model of equipment, even factory-made, requires not only careful tuning, but also systematic condition monitoring. The slightest change in the geometry of the same slide will lead to the fact that the processing of the part will turn into a "mockery" of the sample. The wood constantly swells and shrinks. What kind of smooth movement of the carriage, coincidence of center axes and the like can we talk about? The same goes for the bed. Dynamic loads will quickly lead to loosening of the base (frame, table or other component).

Whatever drawing is used to assemble a household lathe, metal products (pipes, channel or corner) should definitely be used for the manufacture of all structural elements. More difficult - yes, more reliable and more durable - undoubtedly. All other options are a waste of time and effort.

Machine assembly procedure

Making any mechanism (installation, unit) with your own hands is a creative business. Each master is guided by the range of tasks that he will have to solve with the help of home-made equipment, the availability of free space in the garage (shed, extension), and so on. But if you understand the algorithm of actions, then it will not be difficult to assemble a lathe for domestic use. Here are some homemade samples.

If the reader is quite satisfied with the simplest model, and there is no desire to waste time on design, the author suggests paying attention to the machine, which is based on an electric drill. No further explanation is required here.

It is clear that the functionality of such an installation is limited. First of all, due to the fact that only a drill or a drill can be clamped in the chuck. In fact, such a homemade product can be called a lathe conditionally.

But with the manufacture of more "serious" equipment is worth understanding in more detail.

Table frame

It is necessary to determine whether the existing (for example, in the garage) workbench can withstand the additional load. If you intend to make a low-power lathe for processing small parts, then the desktop will be enough. There are two things to keep in mind when assembling the frame.

First, it is necessary to weld pennies on the legs of the table. If the mobility of the machine is not required, that is, it is not supposed to be transported regularly, it makes sense to hollow holes in the concrete floor, install the frame and pour concrete again. The goal is to ensure maximum structural stability during metalworking.

Second, the installation should not be unnecessarily heavy by using a thick steel plate as a tabletop, especially since we are not talking about powerful equipment. It is enough to weld the lathe bed to the frame. Strength will be ensured.

It is necessary to check the conformity of the upper cut of the support frame to the horizontal plane. And only after bringing the structure back to normal, this working stage can be considered complete.

Stanina

Everything is simple here - the support frame of the lathe (channel or corner) is welded to size.

Drive unit

Here you will have to choose one of two options:

• If it is decided to fix the spindle (clamp, chuck) on the motor shaft, then how to change the number of its revolutions? And this will have to be done, depending on the hardness of the sample being processed. You can, for example, install an engine from a second-hand sewing machine (speed adjustment is provided). Only now the power of such a lathe will be minimal, therefore, the possibilities are limited.

• Any electric motor is characterized by the speed of rotation of the shaft (rotor). It is clear that regular replacement of the engine with another during operation is impossible. Therefore, you will have to think about how to change the gear ratio of the drive. The simplest solution is to reinstall the pulley belts attached to the intermediate shaft, that is, use this type of transmission.

"Craftsmen", focusing on this technique, make machines with their own hands for 10 - 12 speeds. Convenience in working with dissimilar materials is provided, and you will not have to search for components, draw up an automation diagram and assemble it.

There is one more argument in favor of such an engineering solution. The main force present in self-assembled machines is along the axis of the shaft. But the electric motors of any model are calculated for the "perpendicular" load.

If the machine does not provide for a belt drive, you need to be prepared for frequent repairs. The reason is the destruction of the engine support parts. There is a possibility to avoid this, but such modernization requires separate consideration (there are several options) and will significantly complicate the design process.

What to consider when assembling

For such regulation, it is advisable to install a motor with a power in the range of 0.75 - 1.5 kW on the lathe.

It is better not to use collector-type products. The peculiarity of such motors is that with a decrease in the load (for example, at the moment the cutter is retracted), the rotor speed increases significantly. It is not difficult to predict the possible result - the workpiece will fly out and the master is injured.

As a rule, do-it-yourself lathes are assembled to work with small "blanks" - up to half a meter long and no more than 12-14 cm in diameter. For such models, asynchronous motors are considered the best (recommended power is indicated). The stability of the number of revolutions will be ensured, and sharp changes in the value of the speed will be excluded.

Features of the manufacture of other structural elements

It is better (if possible) to take separate components from decommissioned equipment. Even when rework is needed, it's easier than building from scratch. Here are some options we will consider.

Sled

Carving from a bar is both difficult and impractical. The strength will not meet the requirements. Easier to use ready-made elements. For example, shock absorber struts.

Quill

Often, in homemade lathes, the backgauge is fixed. You can use a regular bolt, having previously sharpened the end of its legs.

Tool holder

The author used 2 metal plates 4 mm. In order for the tool to be securely fixed and quickly reinstalled, a threaded axle is welded in the center of the lower one, and a hole of the corresponding diameter in the upper one. To clamp the cutter - a nut with a "handle". The skew of the upper plate during tightening is excluded, since more holes are drilled in its corners, and vertical posts (bar sections) are welded to the lower one (under them). As a result, the "clamping" plate moves straight down / up.

When assembling a lathe, it is more correct to focus on the future. In everyday life, it is necessary to process not only metal blanks, but also from other materials - plastics, plexiglass, wood. The conclusion suggests itself unambiguous - if you do yourself and make turning equipment for home use, then you need to strive for its versatility. In particular, to the possibility of changing the spindle speed in a wide range.

• wood - 700 - 2,400;
• metal - 85 - 940.

When deciding on the dimensions of the lathe, one should focus on the dimensions of the workpieces that are supposed to be processed. Specific recommendations on this point are meaningless, but it is worth reminding the main parameters of low-power industrial equipment (in mm).

• Length - 1,150.
• Width - 600 - 620.
• The height of the spindle axis is about 180. This will make it possible to process workpieces with a cross section of up to 175 mm.

In order for the lathe to be truly "working", before drawing up its drawing, it is advisable to familiarize yourself with the main characteristics of amateur industrial models. Linear parameters are not the main thing. There are also such indicators as the size of the caliper and the limits of its movement, the distance between the centers, the feed rate, and so on. This will greatly facilitate the choice of the best option for the do-it-yourself assembly machine.

Particular attention should be paid to the alignment of the centers of the spindle (chuck) and quill. They must be connected by a horizontal line. Failure to comply with this condition leads to the appearance of backlash, beating of the workpiece in the process of metalworking. As a result, it is damaged. Bad, but not critical. If you have a lot of hardware at hand, you can replace it. But the prospect of constantly acquiring new cutters (and they will certainly and quite often "fly" in such a homemade machine tool) will hardly suit anyone.

During the assembly process, questions will inevitably arise as to how best to do this or that with your own hands. The author advises, in case of difficulty, to look at the photographs of lathes available on the Internet - both factory and home-made. There will definitely be an acceptable solution.

Good luck with your design and metalworking!

Putting things in order in a heap of electronic trash, I found the remains of tape recorders. A 9-volt power supply unit, which has a well-recognizable shape and was made back in the USSR, those who caught that time and owned an Electronica or IZh tape recorder will perfectly understand what this is about. And also an old electric motor, too, from some kind of tape recorder. It turned out that the block and the motor still work perfectly in tandem with each other, nothing rusted and stuck.

In general, I decided to try to assemble a mini lathe out of all this, all the more I always wanted to have a small and quiet machine at hand for processing all kinds of small things. You can, of course, collect or buy pribluda (holders) that turn an ordinary drill into a machine, but such drills are usually very noisy because of all kinds of gearboxes rumbling in them.

In principle, I have a superficial idea of ​​the structure of a lathe, at first glance everything seems to be simple there. The only thing that confused was how to place the electric motor and the tailstock on the same axis. And also, what errors are permissible in this case, because I did not want to get a vibrator for a vibrating table or a mobile phone instead of a lathe.

That same old power supply unit, for our time it is certainly huge, but for a test switch it is not so important.

I cut out the engine cover with metal scissors, drilled and bored holes for the engine in it, then bent it in the form of the letter "Py" and then installed the engine in it. I selected a piece of wood of the right size for the base of the machine. Since my machine will be purely experimental, that is, assembled on the knee and from improvised means. I decided to first put together a rough model, and if it works as it should, then then it will be possible to bring it to mind.

I screwed it onto the self-tapping screws, the base for the motor and the rear wall, in order to subsequently screw the casing with the electric motor to them.

I slightly altered the ends of the casing (bent them inward)

I drilled and screwed the casing with the motor to the back wall and to the base with self-tapping screws.

I cut a lid out of cardboard and put it on a couple of self-tapping screws on top.

Somehow it all now looks like this, in my opinion, in lathe terminology, this stray is called "Headstock"

From the same board I sawed squares, smeared with PVA glue and pulled them into a pile. This cube will serve as the tailstock of my homemade lathe.

I screwed this cube into four screws, a couple on top and a couple on the bottom.

If there was a drill chuck on the motor shaft, then the drill could be clamped in it and it would indicate the direction for the holder in the tailstock. And since I had some kind of brass pulley for the tape recorder on the shaft, I had to go a little differently. I just took a sheet of paper and bluntly wrapped it around this pulley, fixed the ends and turned on the motor.

After making sure that the opposite end of this tube rotates near the cube without running apart and beating, he turned off the engine and outlined the contours of the tube on the cube.

I drew the axis of the tube on the side planes of the cube by eye, so that when drilling a hole for the holder, I would guide the drill along these lines.

Also by eye, I brought these lines on the opposite side of the tailstock.

Then I drilled this cube and screwed in a self-tapping screw, which will act as a workpiece holder.

I missed a little, and this is not so important, since in this way it is impossible to achieve perfect accuracy. But since this is just an experiment, we go further and close our eyes to all the jambs and inaccuracies. :-)

We clamp the workpiece and turn on the motor, bend our head a little to the side, in case this blank wants to explore the vastness of the universe. :-) To prevent the holder from drilling the workpiece, I cut off a little thread from its tip.

I put a piece of rubber on the pulley itself and glued the workpiece to it bluntly with hot melt glue. Thus removing the headache about finding a suitable cartridge or holder. And besides, for some reason it seemed that the flexible connection slightly compensates for the curvature of the axis on which the motor and the holder are located, and at the same time the curvature of my hands. :-)

Oddly enough, but everything worked like a clock, the motor is certainly weak, but it copes with its mini-tasks with a bang.

I tried a bunch of different cutters, but most of all I liked to process the pieces of wood with a regular metal cloth and sandpaper. Apparently due to the lack of a handcuff or a weak engine, all other tools immediately bite into the workpiece and stop the motor.

I tried to sharpen a tin rod, or rather lead-tin (solder). Here it was already good to process the workpiece with a cutter from a regular file, sharpened at the end.

I also planted these blanks on glue. The only thing to consider is the heating of the rod during processing. But since the cutter removes very little, I did not manage to heat it to such an extent that the rod peeled off the rubber pad.

Here I tried to sharpen a prototype for casting shells for this tiger. But later it turned out that his own shells have a poorer and more primitive appearance. And what I carved out more suits the royal tiger, so the idea was abandoned.

A bit of a lousy video of him buzzing.

In general, that's all, the machine turned out to be relatively silent, small, only 23 cm long, but the main thing is that it is self-assembled and also works. In principle, I expected big problems when assembling the lathe, but as it turned out, the lathe assembled on the knee works great. Perhaps this is due to the scale, if the dimensions of the machine were larger, and the part would be clamped rigidly (in the drill chuck), then there would definitely be more adventures.

By the way, it is very easy to turn this lathe into a mini emery. It is enough just to glue the cutting disc from the Dremel onto the pillow and as a result we get a mini emery. This sandpaper helped me a lot when I needed to grind 70 plaster castings for this Tiger tank model. Of course, it is almost impossible to center it on the eye, unless you grind the disc itself. But at high revs, the beat is almost imperceptible, besides, it is reinforced, so you can not be afraid that it will burst and something will bounce into the eye. But in any case, no one has canceled the safety precautions when working with emery. Therefore, we keep our head away from the expected flight path of the disk fragments or work with glasses.

Recently I assembled my own 3D printer and the first serious printout on it became a mini drilling machine for hobby and modeling (), because I always dreamed of a silent mini drilling machine. In fact, a 3D printer is a pretty useful thing, with its help you can effortlessly create cases, brackets and other pribluda, and thereby somewhat expand the park of various mini-hobby machines, and this lathe can be made into a divine form.