The sauna building belongs to the category of structures with special operating conditions. The formation of a microclimate acceptable for the adoption of beneficial procedures, and fuel consumption, and the time for warming up the premises depend on its competent device. The term "competent device" means a number of technological processes, one of which is the insulation of the ceiling of the bath. After all, it is precisely the insufficiently insulated top floor that leaks out almost a third of the thermal energy.

The heated air, obeying the strict laws of physics, rushes upward. If there is no impassable barrier in its path, its further work will be aimed at heating the atmosphere. To suppress such unreasonable spending, you need to build a reliable barrier. Moreover, it must be done so that it does not contribute to the formation of condensation on the wooden elements of the ceiling, so that this moisture does not favor the resettlement of colonies of microorganisms that destroy building materials.

The principles of thermal insulation of bath ceilings

Based on the design features of the roof, log or timber baths can be divided into two types: buildings with and without attic space. On the way of the warm air flowing out of the baths with attics, there will be a much more powerful ceiling, in the layer cake of which the heat-insulating material is usually laid during the construction process.

The roofing space itself, filled with an air mass, also inhibits the leakage of thermal energy, the insulation of the roofing structure will still slightly moderate the agility of the “escaping” heat.

However, this does not mean that insulation of the ceiling in a bath with an attic or attic is not necessary. An increase in thermal insulation characteristics in it is sometimes necessary no less than in a building without an attic, where the heat leaking outside meets few and too weak obstacles on its way.

Specificity of the vapor barrier device

In both cases, regardless of the design of the roof, a vapor barrier is laid on the ceiling of the bath before laying the heat-insulating layer. To equip a building without an attic space, you can use aluminum foil, compacted cardboard generously impregnated with linseed oil, wax paper as a vapor barrier layer.

In baths with an attic, the same materials are applicable, but most often the ceiling boards from the side of the roof are coated with a two-centimeter layer of clay.

Of the options offered by the industry, the following are used:

• standard polyethylene film (as for greenhouses 0.4 mm with variations) - a type of vapor barrier that is not very popular due to the creation of a greenhouse effect;

Note. The use of polyethylene film as insulation obliges to leave a gap necessary for the evaporation of condensate.

• special vapor barrier film made of polyethylene with lint to retain condensation;
• membrane type vapor barrier material.

Vapor barrier is necessary to prevent the transit of wet vapors and their settling in the insulation. After all, the water accumulated in the heat-insulating material will shorten its service life, increase the weight of the multilayer ceiling system and, if we return to the course of physics, will reduce the insulating qualities.

Three functions of sauna ceiling insulation

The hotter the required room temperature, the more difficult it is to build a heat retention barrier. To solve this difficult task, those who want to know how to insulate the ceiling of a bathhouse should familiarize themselves with three main leakage patterns:

• the movement of heated air through the cracks in the ceiling;
• a gradual transition of heat from heated objects to cold ones;
• crossing of homogeneous barriers by heat waves.

The installation of thermal insulation material in a multi-layer top floor system prevents all types of thermal leakage. Correctly done insulation will adequately perform all the work entrusted to it. Due to illiterate thermal insulation, condensate will settle on the ceiling, it will take much longer to warm up the room, and spend more fuel resources.

Selection of materials for insulation

Before deciding how to insulate the ceiling in a bath, you need to consider all the options for suitable thermal insulation materials.

• "Classic" mineral wool is used most often. In its chaotic interweaving of fibers melted from basalt, there are billions of air-filled voids, each of which works responsibly to retain heat. The disadvantage is the loss of insulating qualities when wet.

Note. When using mineral wool to insulate the ceiling in bath buildings, it is recommended to lay a waterproofing layer over the insulation if the roof is not sufficiently protected from atmospheric water leaks. Between the waterproofing layer and the insulation, you need to arrange a heat-insulating gap.

• Super-lightweight expanded polypropylene - foam is also often placed on the ceiling of a bathhouse. The foil-laminated material was specially developed for the arrangement of bath buildings and saunas. In addition to the function of insulating it, it reflects the flow of thermal energy with its foil side. Working on the principle of a mirror, Penotherm reduces the heating time of the steam room by 2-3 times.

• Expanded clay is suitable for large-sized bath facilities. A layer sufficient to insulate the ceiling should be equal to 30 cm. Although the material is relatively lightweight, it will inevitably increase the mass of the building. Its porous granules, like mineral wool, are susceptible to moisture. Waterproofing is also required.
• "People's" heat insulator. The first element is a 2 cm layer of crumpled clay. Instead, a mix of black soil and peat, wood shavings filled with cement mortar, a mixture of clay, sand or sawdust are suitable. A "carpet" of dry sawdust or leaves (preferably oak leaves) is laid on top of the laid layer, the insulation is completed by laying a layer of dry earth with a thickness of 15 cm.
• Growing aerated concrete, for which the simplest formwork is arranged. The video will clearly depict how this insulation of the bathhouse ceiling is carried out: the video demonstrates the unpretentious technology in detail.

It is difficult to recommend the thickness of the insulation layer offhand, without knowing the real dimensions of heat loss and the technical parameters of the structure. Figures are approximate throughout, variations are allowed. Much depends on the climatic zone, because the ceiling insulation in the bath is not only a barrier to heat, but also protection from external temperature factors. If the ceiling outside freezes, moisture will condense on the ceiling. In such cases, the layer of thermal insulation is simply increased.

Ceiling insulation technology

Regardless of the material chosen for the construction of the bath, the design of its upper floor is practically the same. The load-bearing base is made up of beams resting on the upper rims of a bar or log or on the Mauerlat of brick or panel structures. The timber used for the construction of the beam floor is usually treated with an antiseptic before installation. But, if the procedure for protecting against fungus was not carried out in advance, the wood should be processed before laying the layers of thermal insulation. Particular care must be taken in places where building materials with different technical characteristics are joined. In such tandems as brick-wood, foam concrete-wood, wood-metal.

• From the side of the bath rooms, the ceiling is hemmed with boards, they are nailed from below to the beams.
• Roll up shields, which are two rows of low-grade boards perpendicularly directed to each other.

Attention. Craftsmen who carry out the insulation of the ceiling of the bath with their own hands need to make calculations before constructing the roll-over shields. There must be at least 5 cm gaps between the beams and the shields installed on the skull boards.There must be a distance of at least 25 cm between the timber elements and the chimney.

It is necessary to draw a diagram and, according to it, calculate the size and configuration of each of the shields. After manufacturing, the shields must be numbered so as not to get confused during installation.

• The knocked-down "boxes" also need to be protected from rot and bacteria with antiseptic impregnation.
• A vapor barrier material is stapled to the bottom and inner walls of the pallet-like shield with a stapler.
• Shields are lifted up without insulation, starting with those that will be mounted last.
• Having lifted up all the elements, they are arranged according to the marking. The bottom plane of the backboard put in place should coincide with the bottom plane of the beam.
• After placement, the boxes are stuffed with heat-insulating material. It is also necessary to insulate the gaps between the boards and beams.
• From above, the entire structure is sewn up with boards in a direction perpendicular to the direction of the beams.

Advice. It is not necessary to use a long board for the top sheathing; it can be alternated with rows made up of short boards.

Instead of boards, you can use fiberboard, homemade slabs made of cement mortar with sawdust. The finished ceiling must be treated with a fire retardant; in the chimney area, all wooden elements are sheathed with asbestos sheets.

Thermal insulation for the steam room

A separate topic, since the upper plane of the steam room should not only not let through, but also contribute to the accumulation of steam in the ceiling area. Above the steam rooms, it is advised to lay two layers of vapor barrier material and complement the insulation for the ceiling of the bath with layers of thermal insulation.

Construction from Sosnin with Bukharkin

• The beams are hemmed with grooved boards 2.5 cm thick. They must be covered with linseed oil in two layers, which, according to the developers, should impart moisture resistance to the sawn timber.
• A low-grade board with slots of about 3 cm is nailed from above along the beams in the transverse direction. This is the so-called moisture gap.
• Roofing material is laid on the boards laid with gaps, polyethylene film can be used. It is great if the owner does not skimp on reinforced foil.
• Fill in a 20-centimeter layer of slag or sand.

Two more options for the steam room

For hemming from the bottom of the ceiling beams, a five-centimeter unedged board is suitable. Outside, along the beams, to support the filing, a narrow board is attached to the wood grouse. This thin board is directly attached to the ceiling cladding made of a grooved aspen board with a ventilation gap.

From the side of the attic, a vapor barrier is laid, then a 3 cm layer of clay mixed with sawdust. Then mineral wool with a density of 125 units and a width of 15 cm and PP film from the wind. At the end, the attic floor boards are mounted.

If the ceiling is made of logs, the ceiling of the steam room is sheathed from below on top of the lathing specially built for it. Glassine is laid on top as a vapor barrier, then 20 cm of sand, everything else is optional.

If the owner wants his structure to hold steam perfectly, you should find out in detail how to properly insulate the ceiling of the bath. Information about the sequence in which the layers are laid, how the ceiling design in the steam room differs from the analog for the washing department, will help to correctly insulate the structure, which has become a symbol of suburban life. The proposed options for the device can be upgraded in accordance with personal requirements and climatic characteristics.

The walls, as well as the ceiling, must be insulated in the bath. It depends on the insulation how long the hot air will remain in the room. As follows from the laws of physics, hot air tends upward, while cold air takes its place. If the ceiling in the bath is cold, then the warm air is instantly cooled, which further contributes to the formation of condensation and water droplets on the ceiling. All this can be avoided very simply by pre-insulating the ceiling. This is the topic of today's article.

Insulation materials - there is nothing better than Isover!

In the bath, it is quite possible to do it yourself, without resorting to the services of expensive specialists. The main thing in this is to follow the technological instructions exactly, as well as choose the right material for insulation. Then even inexperienced builders will be able to make a high-quality vapor barrier of a bath room in the shortest possible time.

To begin with, let's talk about heaters, which are considered the most popular and in demand today. The insulation will constantly function in conditions of high humidity and temperature. In this regard, preference should be given to goods that have the following characteristics:

• Resistance to humidity and temperature extremes;
• Quick and easy installation;
• Low level of thermal conductivity, which helps to retain heat inside the room;
• Environmental safety - under the influence of high temperatures, many materials are characterized by the release of harmful and toxic substances. Therefore, it is necessary to buy exclusively pure and safe products;
• Low level of moisture absorption;
• Resistant to microorganisms, including bacteria, fungi and mold.

First of all, one should highlight such material as isover, which belongs to the category of mineral-containing insulation. Izover is very convenient and simple in the installation process, and also has a fairly affordable price. Depending on the mineral on the basis of which isover is produced, dolomite, basalt, slag and many other heaters are distinguished. This material is produced in slabs and rolls. Today, some improved versions of isover, equipped, for example, with a foil coating, are popular. Due to the presence of foil, it becomes possible to achieve an increase in thermal insulation, since heat is reflected from the surface of the protected ceiling with a cold roof.

At its core, isover is a better and more advanced analogue of glass wool, since the production is carried out using fiberglass. Key features include the following performance characteristics:

1. 1. In addition to thermal insulation, izover boasts remarkable properties in terms of sound insulation. Therefore, it can be used not only to protect the ceiling, but also the walls.
2. 2. Mold is practically incapable of multiplying, since the material is not a breeding ground for such microorganisms.
3. 3. Low weight, which makes it possible to independently install the material under the roof without much difficulty
4. 4. The composition contains substances such as limestone, soda and sand, which makes it one of the most environmentally friendly and safe insulation materials.
5. 5. Isover is a very strong and elastic material that adheres tightly to the wooden frame during installation.
6. 6. An important property is durability. Correct installation makes it possible to use the insulation for more than a dozen years without deteriorating its main characteristics.

The only more or less significant drawback is the possibility of using isover only under conditions of a temperature regime not exceeding 300 degrees Celsius. The material itself does not burn, but in the event of a fire it emits a certain amount of smoke. Despite this, home craftsmen prefer to purchase isover, since its advantages many times outweigh this disadvantage.

Polyfoam as insulation - can this polymer be used in a bath?

An excellent alternative to isover is the well-known polystyrene or expanded polystyrene. This material has long established itself as an excellent insulation and insulator. Moreover, foam can be used in a wide variety of buildings and structures, including baths, living quarters, sheds, as well as for outdoor decoration.

Choosing foam for thermal insulation, the owner of the bath will be able to count on many positive aspects from its use. Its thermal conductivity is at a very low level; in this regard, expanded polystyrene may well compete even with isover. In addition, the insulation is very light, so there should be no problems with installation. The process of processing foam plastic will not cause any problems for novice builders, because special knowledge, as well as special tools, is not required. Any knife, even the most common knife, is suitable for cutting and leveling.

Having installed expanded polystyrene, you will forget about the need to repair the roof for several decades. This is due to the huge margin of safety, and the insulator feels great in the harshest conditions without any loss in quality. Styrofoam practically does not burn, but it is recommended to buy a special type of polymer treated with flame retardants. Thanks to this chemical, the fire resistance is increased many times over.

To objectively evaluate the foam as a heater, it is necessary to note its negative qualities. First of all, let's highlight the weak resistance to ultraviolet radiation. So, under the influence of such rays, the polymer begins to decompose and deform. Therefore, it is imperative to install finishing materials in order to close the polymer from UV rays.

This insulation also cannot be classified as environmentally friendly. This is especially true for materials that have not been treated with flame retardants. When burning, expanded polystyrene instantly begins to melt and releases various toxic components. As a result, not only human health, but also his life can be in danger.

Expanded clay - a natural thermal insulation material based on clay

Among the materials that are distinguished by the highest indicators of environmental friendliness, expanded clay should be distinguished. This is an excellent natural insulation, which is made on the basis of various clay fractions. Expanded clay is ideal for use in harsh conditions in a bath. Many experts advise using this particular material for the ceiling. Lightweight and plate expanded clay is at the same time a breathable material, which has a positive effect on air exchange in the room.

Advantages of expanded clay:

• This natural substance does not emit any harmful waste, even at high temperatures or after years of continuous use;
• High level of durability - the insulation still performs its main functions during the entire service life of several decades;
• Expanded clay can withstand any temperature extremes. In addition, he is not afraid of high temperatures, since the clay on the basis of which he is produced is subjected to high-temperature firing;
• Remarkable moisture resistance, due to which the roof insulation is not susceptible to dampness and, as a result, it is incredibly difficult for fungus and mold to multiply in such difficult conditions for them.

Expanded clay itself is a fairly cheap material. However, it is better to spend a little more money, but buy fine-grained insulation. It is much easier to work with such a material, moreover, its thermal conductivity is somewhat lower than that of other varieties. But the most important feature is that small rodents, the same rats and mice, will not be able to settle in ceilings covered with similar material. This is a key feature of expanded clay, which compares favorably with all other insulators in the construction market.

Vapor barrier and waterproofing are integral stages of thermal insulation of the ceiling in a bath

Thermal insulation of the ceiling is far from the only thing that needs to be done to protect the floors of the bath from moisture. Vapor barrier is of great importance, since the ceiling first of all has to be under the influence of hot steam. The absence of a vapor barrier layer contributes to the penetration of steam into the depth of the protective barrier, settling in the form of drops of cold moisture on insulation and sheathing. This negatively affects the quality of ceiling insulation, in addition, the necessary prerequisites are created for the development of various forms of life, as well as the decomposition and decay of wooden beams and boards.

As a vapor barrier, special film materials are usually used. The task of such insulators is to protect thermal insulation from dampness and the destructive effect of moisture. In ordinary rooms, for example, bathrooms, it is advisable to use anti-condensation membranes, which are not expensive. This is a fairly high-quality material that prevents the penetration and settling of moisture on the insulation.

However, for a bath, such an insulator is not always suitable, since it requires a better material that can function in conditions of very high humidity and temperature. These include, for example, foil film. This is a special shiny film that must be handled very carefully, even though it is strong. It stretches and is fixed over the entire surface, however, any, even the smallest cut, threatens to reduce the effect of the work to zero.

To protect the ceiling structure from moisture, you can use proven materials, for example, multilayer insulating films or membranes. Such insulators are made on the basis of kraft paper, and one of the sides is characterized by a foil coating. In this case, saving is not recommended, so give preference to reliable manufacturers. So, the products of Izospan, Megaizol, Folgoplast have been occupying leading positions in the vapor barrier market for a very long time.

No special difficulties are expected when working with an insulating membrane. The film itself is overlapped, capturing the previous layer by about 10 cm. Any damaged area must be replaced with another, where there are no mechanical defects or cuts. To fix the film, you can use a special foil tape, due to which the surface will acquire a solid look. If you have a construction stapler, then it is better to fix the film with these tools. This contributes to the creation of the most durable and reliable sealed coating of thermal insulation materials.

Waterproofing is also a very important element of renovation work. Although today vapor barrier films can boast of all the necessary waterproofing characteristics. In any case, waterproofing is required to separate the insulation from the attic space. A feature of the installation is that the material is laid from the side of the attic.

The key difference between waterproofing is to prevent moisture from entering the insulator from the attic. After all, moisture can penetrate in the form of drops from rain, as well as as a result of roof leaks. If the ventilation in the building is low, water droplets can also form in the attic, having a negative effect on the insulation.

Thus, well-executed steam and waterproofing protects insulation materials both from the inside of the bath, where the hot air has the main effect, and from the roof, where raindrops can cause enormous damage to the entire structure.

Ceiling insulation is the most common method

The ceiling insulation method described below is excellent for all types of baths, regardless of the presence or absence of attic spaces. The only condition is the floor beams, since all the main insulation elements will be mounted on the beams.

Wooden structures, which will serve as the main thermal insulation, are recommended to be treated with special antiseptic agents in order to additionally protect them from the damaging effects of mold.

The work itself is divided into several main stages. First of all, we install a vapor barrier film on the beams from the side of the bath. As already noted, a membrane equipped with a foil layer is considered the best solution. Due to the ability to reflect thermal energy, you can significantly reduce the costs associated with heating the bath and maintaining the temperature at the required high level. The film should be handled very carefully, avoiding cuts and other damage. Having carefully secured all layers with a stapler, we can consider the vapor barrier successfully installed.

The next important point is the frame or crate. This structure is mounted again from the side of the room. The need for lathing is due to the fact that it supports the insulation and the vapor barrier film. In the future, the ceiling sheathing is nailed to the frame. Some specialists do not install a crate at the stage of building a bath, but the frame is an ideal solution. For example, additional slabs create a small gap between the ceiling lining and insulation, which has the most positive effect on the heat reflection effect.

The lathing contributes to a tighter adhesion of the thermal insulation to the membrane, as a result of which the likelihood of condensation is reduced to zero. Naturally, most modern heat insulators do an excellent job with moisture, but constant getting wet leads to a deterioration in their performance.

Now we go directly to the installation of insulation. This is one of the easiest moments in the whole work. It is required to lay materials very tightly, without leaving even the smallest gaps. Slots are absolutely unacceptable, so it is better to put a little more physical effort and squeeze the insulation, rather than leave a small gap after completing the work. All that remains is to install the waterproofing of the ceiling, which is mounted from the side of the roof or attic. Again, we need staples and a stapler to secure the film as firmly as possible to wood structures.

The ideal solution would be to install a sub-floor, to which the waterproofing will be attached. However, this is associated with additional costs, moreover, this option is only possible if there is an attic space. Thanks to the subfloor, a small gap remains between the base of the ceiling and the insulation itself, which contributes to continuous air exchange and ventilation.

That's all, you can proceed to the installation of cladding panels on the ceiling. Basically, for these purposes, they choose either lining, although the choice is very, very large.

Clay and straw - folk methods of bath warming

An interesting solution is to use a mixture of straw, clay, sand and sawdust. This composition can significantly reduce heat loss, as well as protect the ceiling of the bath. After installing the vapor barrier, proceed to applying the mixture. The correct proportion is very important - three parts of sawdust or ordinary straw are added to two parts of clay, after which the resulting solution is thoroughly kneaded to a state of thick sour cream or river silt.

The resulting mixture with the help of ordinary improvised tools is applied in a layer up to 10 cm. The only problematic issue is the speed of drying, since it can take up to several weeks for the clay to dry completely. In addition, at high temperatures, for example, in summer, during the heat, cracks can form on the drying solution, which can only be repaired with the help of a similar mixture. Finally, a layer of chips or sawdust can be poured over the mixture after it is completely dry, which will only increase the effect of such a "cake", and also further reduce heat losses.

The article will discuss such a construction task as insulating the ceiling in a Russian bath with mineral wool with your own hands. Private developers often have to deal with a similar question, and detailed explanations will help to do everything right.

In the bath, as in a private house, the ceiling is always carefully insulated. In a bath, this is even more necessary, since the air heats up intensively and rises. With poor thermal insulation, hot air quickly escapes due to the large temperature difference, the heat spent on heating the steam room is wasted.

There will be less hassle if you order a turnkey ready-made construction for professionals. But if it has already been built, and the insulation leaves much to be desired, or you are building it on your own, you can insulate the ceiling of the bath yourself.

Why mineral wool?

Objectively, mineral wool is the best insulating material, although not the cheapest. It has an extremely low thermal conductivity, does not burn, and is not affected by rot and insects. Cotton wool is durable, provides good sound insulation, harmless to people and pets. In the end, insulating the ceiling in a Russian bath with mineral wool with your own hands does not present any particular difficulties for the "amateur". A minimum of tools are required.

Water vapor is deposited on the cotton wool fibers in a damp room, and the wet insulation stops functioning as expected. Therefore, cotton wool is insulated - as a vapor and waterproofing, foil is used, connected at the joints with foil tape, glassine, waxed paper, foil-insol or a simple plastic wrap. In buildings with an attic from the roof side, you can coat the boards with a layer of high-quality clay 2 cm thick.

Usually they use rolled basalt wool 10 cm thick. It is laid in two layers. Materials must be purchased in advance so that by the beginning of work everything you need is at hand. The technology for forming the ceiling "pie" depends on the type of ceiling.

False ceiling

If the edged or grooved boards are hemmed from below to the beams, the sauna ceiling is insulated independently from the attic side. A vapor barrier is placed on top of the cladding in two layers, in the recesses between the beams. It turns out "troughs", isolated from the bottom and sides. Cotton wool is carefully laid in them, tightly, leaving no gaps, but trying not to crumple it. A layer with a thickness of 20-25 cm in total is required, then the bath will not lose heat at any time of the year.

Finally, the correct pie of the ceiling in a Russian bath is covered with waterproofing, in the simplest case, with a waterproof polymer film. Steam and waterproofing should be airtight, the sheets are overlapped with an overlap of 3-5 cm, and the joints are carefully glued with tape, if it is foil. So that you can walk on the floor of the attic without damaging the thermal insulation, a rough floor of unedged board is arranged on top of it.

Panel ceiling

The panels are made in conditions convenient for work, then they are lifted up and laid. On two parallel bars, equal in length to the width of the opening, planks are laid perpendicular to them, using nails. The thickness of the boards is 5 cm, the length is 60 cm. The distance between the inner sides of the beams is 50 cm, the boards protrude 5 cm from the outside.

From the inside, the panels are lined with a vapor barrier material, covering, in addition to the boards, also the beams from the sides, and the insulation is fixed with a construction stapler. The panels are lifted up and laid on the walls, with boards sewn down from top to bottom. Further, the insulation of the ceiling of the bathhouse is carried out independently, like a false ceiling - a layer of basalt wool is placed in the panels, and closed from the outside with waterproofing.

On top of the insulating pies, boards with a thickness of at least 4 cm are laid. At intervals of one meter - long boards, the length of which is equal to the width of all panels combined (for example, 3 meters - 5 panels). Between them, 60-centimeter ones are laid, on each panel separately, as on the side facing down.

Deck ceiling

False ceilings are usually made in saunas without attics. No load-bearing beams are needed, the floorboards are knocked down into a shield and fixed directly to the load-bearing walls. A vapor barrier is fixed on top with a stapler, mineral wool is laid and covered with waterproofing. For all its simplicity and low cost, this method has a significant drawback - the "cake" is not protected from above, and can easily be damaged during repairs or adverse weather conditions. Therefore, it is better to use a dense and massive waterproofing material such as roofing felt. Do-it-yourself ceiling insulation in a Russian bath with mineral wool can be considered complete.

Worse than the absence of a bath can only be a cold bath. Those who do not want to face such a problem in the future think about insulation in advance. This will significantly reduce the consumption of firewood. Before insulating the ceiling in the bath, you need to choose a suitable material for this and carefully study the technology.

When the ceiling of a bathhouse needs insulation

The laws of physics state that warm air is lighter than cold air, which means that it tends upward. The ceiling, on the other hand, restricts this movement, forcing it to accumulate in the upper part of the room. Further, much depends on the thermal conductivity of the ceiling itself. If it is not insulated with anything, then it becomes the reason for the loss of 20% of the heat. It is quite possible that this is not a problem for a summer sauna with a full firebox. In all other cases, it is worth taking care of reducing heat loss and insulating the ceiling with your own hands.

Warming will also come in handy for those who do not want to spend the whole day on the furnace, because the ladle is easier to fill if it does not leak. It's the same with heat.

What way to choose for insulation from the inside and outside of the room

The choice of insulation method is influenced by what is above the ceiling - a cold attic, a residential attic or a flat roof with a slight slope, which leaves a minimum attic space. In total, there are only three methods for arranging the ceiling:

• grazing;
• hemming;
• panel.

Deck ceiling with expanded clay insulation, clay and sawdust

For those who have an attic, but do not want to equip it in a warm warehouse or recreation room, the construction of a flat ceiling is suitable. It is considered the simplest, since it is not supposed to walk in the attic, which means that there is no need even for floor beams. The draft ceiling is placed on the piping of the building, that is, directly on the walls.

Important! There are limitations associated with this. The boards will withstand a layer of insulation if their length is no more than 2.5 m with a board thickness of 4–5 cm.

Different materials can be used, but the structure of the "pie" is the same in any case. It consists of layers (top to bottom):

• insulation;
• waxed paper;
• boards;
• vapor barrier;
• clean ceiling.

The vapor barrier material must not only be hydrophobic, but also withstand high temperatures, so its choice is limited. Foil is most often used as a vapor barrier. The last layer is made of expanded clay (slag) or clay with straw.

In the first case, expanded clay is poured onto a layer of waxed paper (so that it does not spill through the cracks) with a layer of 20 to 30 cm. This thickness is sufficient for the thermal insulation properties of this material to appear. The fractions of expanded clay should be taken differently so that the small ones fill the voids between the large ones.

Often, before filling, dividers are stuffed onto the rough ceiling from the attic side.

In the second case, the clay is soaked, and then straw or sawdust is added to it. There is another way. First, a 5 cm layer of clay is laid, which is allowed to stand for 4 days. Then the cracks are covered with fresh mortar, and a 10 cm layer of oak leaves is placed on top. Then again clay, but already dry (5 cm).

From the side of the bathhouse, a vapor barrier is attached to the rough ceiling, which is sealed with metal tape. Next, a lathing is made, leaving a ventilation gap, on top of which a final ceiling is mounted, for example, from a lining.

Each of these heaters has one significant drawback: high weight... The rough ceiling will cope with it only if the boards are thick and the span is small. The advantage can be considered the cheapness of the material. If desired, the same floor ceiling can be insulated with mineral wool and expanded polystyrene in combination with expanded clay and ecowool, but their cost is much higher.

You will need:

• tools: stapler, saw, hammer;
• materials: boards, foil, waxed paper, metal tape, galvanized nails, expanded clay.

For a bath with a size of 225 by 225 cm, with a layer of expanded clay 30 cm thick, the volume of the required material is 1.5 m 3.

Video: how to insulate the ceiling with expanded clay with your own hands

The sequence of arranging a false ceiling with vapor barrier

This is a more complex structure, suitable for those who want to build a second floor in the future. If you plan to walk in the attic, put furniture there, then you need to mount the floor beams. On them, a hemmed ceiling is made.

You will need:

• tools: construction stapler, hammer, saw, knife, tape measure, mallet;
• materials: beams, foil, metal tape, galvanized nails, battens, tongue-and-groove boards or lining, insulation, edged boards, membrane or film

To calculate the material, you need to know the area of ​​the ceiling, which is divided by the standard dimensions of the slab or roll of insulation. If it is bulk, then its volume is calculated: the height of the bulk, which depends on the climatic zone, is multiplied by the area. For example:

• room length - 380 cm;
• width - 350 cm;
• the height of the layer of bulk insulation is 20 cm.

The volume is 380x350x20 = 2.66 m 3.

The ceiling layout is as follows (top to bottom):

However, the work is being carried out in a different order. The sequence of actions is as follows:

1. First of all, floor beams are placed on the wall trim.
2. Then they are hemmed with a layer of vapor barrier from below. Typically, foil, a construction stapler, and metal tape are used for sealing.
3. The vapor barrier is additionally nailed to the beams with slats so that a ventilation gap of 2-3 cm is formed.
4. For finishing the ceiling, either a good quality grooved board or lining is taken.
5. After this, the work is moved to the attic, where insulation is placed between the beams on the vapor barrier. Basalt wool is most often used for this.
6. Waterproofing is placed on top of the insulation. For a bath, a membrane is preferable to polyethylene, because the previous layer must get rid of condensation.
7. Everything is covered with a flooring of edged boards, which will become the basis of the floor. It is better not to use cement.
8. Top coat of the attic floor.

Video: hemming technology

How can you insulate a panel ceiling

The most difficult version of the ceiling arrangement, therefore it is rarely used in baths. For it, you need to make pallets into which the insulation will fit.

You will need:

• tools: saw, hammer, construction stapler, knife;
• materials: galvanized nails, foil, mineral wool, bars, boards (in pairs).

A standard mineral wool mat for baths and saunas has dimensions of 60x100 cm with a thickness of 5 or 10 cm. The material is easily cut with a knife, and when laying it can be squeezed a little so that it lies tighter in the space. The length of the "pallet" corresponds to the length of the room, the width of its inner part is 50 cm.

Knowing the length and width of the ceiling, for example, 360x360 cm, we can conclude that you have to make 6 pallets with a length of 360 cm. Each of them will fit 3.6 standard mat (60x100 cm). If the density of the mineral wool is high, it will not be possible to compress it strongly, so the cuttings will go into the "pockets".

To insulate a panel ceiling with a size of 360x360 cm, you will need 22 standard mineral wool mats.

Thermal insulation materials deserve separate consideration. The fact is that not all are suitable for a bath. This is due to the increased temperature and humidity in its premises. The steam room is especially demanding on the insulation material. It should be:

• non-flammable, does not emit a lot of smoke during a fire;
• withstanding temperatures over 100 degrees;
• absorbing little water;
• does not emit toxic substances into the air in any condition.

There is no ideal material, each has both advantages and disadvantages.

All work takes place in several stages:

1. First, on any flat surface (for example, on plywood), a structure is made of new bars and boards 60 cm long.
2. The bars are located at a distance of 50 cm from each other, the boards are nailed with 4 nails perpendicularly. In this case, you need to indent 5 cm from the edge.
3. As a result of the work, a shield is obtained in which the vapor barrier is laid. It, in turn, needs to be fixed with a stapler. It remains only to strengthen the shield with temporary jibs, making it easier to carry, and raise it up.
4. At the top, the shields are placed end-to-end with protruding boards. Due to this, additional voids are formed for the insulation.
5. The walls of the bath are the supports for the shields, so they must be the same in length. Insulation (mineral wool or glass wool) is placed inside the panels with vapor barrier. Pockets are also insulated. After that, floorboards are nailed across the boards, on top of which a finishing floor is made.

The panel ceiling is an alternative to the hemmed ceiling, since both are used in two-story saunas. The owner is free to choose between the laboriousness of the panel and the financial cost of the hem.

For the installation of a panel ceiling in a bath, it is undesirable to use plastic lining, foam and plastic wrap.

It is difficult to name the best insulation. Most often, basalt wool is used to equip a bath.

Table: advantages and disadvantages of various heaters

Ceiling insulation must be carried out even during the construction of a bath. Moreover, you can do this on your own if you carefully study the installation technology of various heat-insulating materials.

How to insulate the ceiling of a bathhouse and properly "organize" a comfortable stay in it? Let's dig a little bit of the basics of the processes! ..

In a heated bath, warm air and, naturally, steam rises to the ceiling, where it condenses under the condition of a lower ceiling temperature. In the absence of vapor barrier and insulation of the ceiling, warm air very quickly "leaves" the bath, which they are trying to heat up, and the condensate destroys the ceiling.

As a result, the process of heating the bath can be delayed for several hours, accompanied by increased fuel consumption (respectively, and money), and the reliability of the structure itself (roof) in a few years will become very doubtful.

Do you want to insulate the ceiling of the bath with your own hands and avoid it! The complex of works in the direction of ceiling insulation can be divided into three stages:

• we insulate the ceiling;
• we protect the attic from moisture ingress;
• we organize a vapor barrier to keep steam inside the room.

Previously, the log ceiling of the bath was insulated with earth or clay. A little later, slag, expanded clay, and other bulk materials were popularized. Now the market for thermal insulation materials is huge.

A little about safety! It should be downloaded that the bath belongs to structures with an increased fire hazard. Therefore, before insulating the ceiling in the bath, you should familiarize yourself with the "flammability" of the materials used to insulate the ceiling of the bath

For example, polyurethane foam, rezole foam, mineral basalt wool, etc. Foam polystyrene can be used as insulation in those parts of the bath where there is no high heating, for example, when insulating the bath floor or its base.

What materials are used for ceiling insulation?

Let's figure out how you can insulate the ceiling of a bath? What materials are better, more practical and more profitable to use to insulate the ceiling of the bath.

Basalite- Tiled elastic heat insulator of low density made of basalt fiber.

Thermal insulation material, which has two varieties: Izospan A and Izospan B.

1. - a protective barrier for insulation, walls, roofs from condensation and wind. It is laid on the outside of the insulation.
2. - This is a vapor barrier that protects the insulation from saturation with water vapor from the inside of the room (from the inside).

Sawdust- affordable, cheap, but far from ideal heat-insulating material for warming the roof of a bath. On top, a layer of sawdust is covered with a layer of earth.

Clay porous oval capsules obtained by firing clay. They can have different densities depending on the production method (from 250 kg / m 3 to 600 kg / m 3. The material is available, but for high-quality thermal insulation the layer must be at least 30 cm.

Foil used to isolate the interior from moisture. This is a roll material, usually 1 m wide. The ceiling is completely sheathed with foil with an overlap of at least 15 cm canvases and gluing the joints with aluminum tape. It is convenient and practical to use a construction stapler for fixing the foil. Further, this foil can be pressed with wooden slats, on which the inner lining of the bath room is mounted.

So, what is the best way to insulate the ceiling in a bath?

What can be the ceilings in a bath?

The ceiling is laid after the walls are built and the roof is covered! Otherwise, during the time that the house will be in the open air, it may simply “suffer” a little from unfavorable weather conditions, which, subsequently, may “develop” into the appearance of fungus and mold.

To insulate the ceiling of a bathhouse with our own hands, let's first figure out the methods of laying the ceiling! There may be several of them:

• flat (for small buildings;
• hemming (baths with large dimensions);
• panel (competes with the first two).

A general requirement for such ceilings is the presence of a high-quality vapor barrier and thermal insulation - without cracks, with glued joints.

Floor ceiling for a bath

A flat version of the ceiling is the best option for solving the problem of how to insulate the ceiling in the bath, but in the case of its small size and the absence of an attic in the bath. Such a ceiling is quick and easy to install, but it is not a profitable promising option - the need for access to the roof threatens to damage the thermal insulation.

The permissible width of the span covered by the ceiling should not exceed 2.5 m. The ceiling consists of floorboards (A), which rest on the walls of the bath. The minimum permissible thickness of the flooring boards is 5 cm. Before insulating the ceiling of the bathhouse, the flooring is covered with a layer of vapor barrier material (B), on which a mineral or bulk insulation is laid (C).

Note! When using bulk insulation, it is necessary to make a protective side (D) along the edges of the flooring, the height of which will correspond to or exceed the thickness of the heat-insulating layer.

False ceiling for a bath

A suspended ceiling in a bathhouse is a practical ceiling, as it implies the possibility of using the attic space.

The suspended ceiling in the bath "presupposes" the presence of ceiling beams (A) in it, to which all the elements of such a ceiling will be attached. That is, the ceiling beams form a load-bearing frame.

From the bottom, the beams are sewn up with a sheet of vapor barrier material (B) using a stapler or additional rails (read the instructions - do not confuse the sides of the sheet). The sheets of the vapor barrier film are overlapped with the obligatory gluing of the seams with special mounting tape. Along the edges, a film allowance is left on the walls (15-20 cm).

Along the layer of vapor barrier from below, the beams are sewn up with eurolining or edged board (B).

Heat-insulating material (D) is placed on top of the vapor barrier between the beams.

From above, this material is covered with a waterproofing film (D).

Note! The top beams remain uncovered by the foil. Waterproofing the beams themselves leads to their premature aging and the appearance of rot and fungus.

On top of the beams, the ceiling is sewn up with edged boards (E) (or unedged), which form the floor of the attic space.

Panel ceiling of a bath

Panel ceiling is a construction set with the same details. The entire ceiling is made up of identical individual panels that, when combined, form a single, warm ceiling. This is the most difficult type of ceiling, which, moreover, "requires" to itself when installing the increased attention of several people. How to insulate the ceiling of a bathhouse with ceiling panels?

Ceiling panels are made first.

The place for assembly should be level, and to speed up the process, you can make three template measurements 50 cm long, rather than using a measuring rod. One panel requires two beams (B) and boards 60 cm long.

The bars are laid on a flat surface in parallel at a distance of 50 cm (along the outer edge.

Next, boards (B) are nailed to the beams (A) or screwed with self-tapping screws, so that the distance from the edge of the timber to the edge of the board is 5 cm on each side. These "canopies" of the boards, when docked, form a pocket between the panels, which will be filled with heat-insulating material.

The knocked down shield is turned over and "waterproofed" with a film inside using a stapler. Two jibs can be nailed on top for the convenience of further transportation to the installation site.

Collect panels on the walls of the bath. Insulation and a vapor barrier layer are placed in the pockets formed. From above, the panels are fixed only due to the transverse boards of the "attic" floor, which are nailed to the bars of the panels. But before that, insulating material is placed in the boxes of panels.

The first plank in length should span all of the ceiling panels. The second and third boards can be composite. Then the next solid, double again, etc.

How to insulate the ceiling near the sauna chimney?

Both polystyrene and extruded polystyrene foam, and foil-clad polyethylene with other synthetic insulation materials are "afraid" of high temperatures. The temperature in the bath sometimes reaches 200 ° C near the ceiling, which already exceeds the melting temperature of polystyrene, polyethylene, expanded polystyrene!

What to do?

Especially with the place of the "passage" of the chimney from the bath through the ceiling to the roof or attic. The flue pipe can have a significantly higher temperature! In addition, high-quality insulation of the sauna chimney contributes to its rapid heating. And this fact indicates a decrease in the amount of condensate on the outer walls of the pipe.

How to be here?

"Fashionable" theme of warming the ceiling of a bath, especially the place where the chimney exits through the ceiling, with the help of "growing" aerated concrete (cellular concrete). The thermal conductivity of such a material is very low (comparable to wood).

In search of a solution to how to insulate the ceiling in the bath and the chimney of the stove in it, you can use a "sandwich" pipe - a pipe in a pipe. In section, it has three layers: an inner stainless steel pipe, then a layer of insulation (perlite sand or basalt wool - from 10 cm), and behind it an outer galvanized steel pipe (usually). This design of the pipe contributes to the presence of better draft and protects the objects surrounding the chimney from fire.

Solving such a problem as insulation of the ceiling in a bath, someone will focus on the limited budget, someone on the practicality of the design, someone will have a small family bathhouse, and someone will have a branded "bathhouse". One of three types of ceilings using suitable and affordable thermal insulation materials will help you get what you want!