For reading 8 min.

Usually, at the final stage of a major overhaul of an apartment, the inner surfaces of the balcony are sheathed with plastic panels. This allows you to make a balcony not only attractive, but also use it as a living space.

Among the many features of PVC panels, simple installation is considered a significant advantage. A small skill in construction is enough to make high-quality cladding with the help of step-by-step instructions.

Benefits of PVC panels

Experts call a building material made of polyvinyl chloride (PVC) plastic.

According to its intended purpose, there are two types of material on the market:

• Wall panels- are distinguished by their strength and low flexibility. Thanks to these qualities, they are not afraid of heavy loads, therefore they can withstand the weight of a small cabinet or shelf;

• ceiling panels- have low strength, since they must only support their own weight. They are sold at a lower price than wall panels.

Depending on the size, plastic panels belong to one of the groups:

PVC panels are popular with balcony owners due to the following features:

• during installation, no special tools are needed and no great skills in construction are required. The work is simplified due to the low weight of the panels. In addition, there is no need for high-quality surface preparation;
• communications are easily hidden under the paneling;
• the thermal and sound insulation of the room is improved;
• easy replacement of damaged areas;
• easy care, just wipe the surface with a damp cloth;
• attractive appearance remains - more than 20 years;
• environmental safety is ensured by the absence of toxic components;
• a large selection of color and texture options to create a unique interior;
• affordable price.

Calculation of the number of panels

Before buying, the required number of panels is calculated, depending on the size of the balcony.

The calculations take into account a number of features:

• the panels have different widths. With a complex wall configuration, narrow models are purchased (10 centimeters), and for ordinary ceiling and wall cladding, medium-sized models (25 centimeters) are better suited;
• for a glazed and insulated balcony, panels of any width are suitable, and for an uninsulated balcony, narrow plastic is suitable, since it can withstand temperature fluctuations better;
• panels are produced with a maximum length of 6 meters.

The best thing, for finishing a standard balcony, panels with a length of 2.5 meters are suitable.

The number of panels for the ceiling and walls is calculated differently:

• ceiling - the area is measured and divided by the width of the panel;
• walls - the perimeter of the balcony is measured and multiplied by the height of the ceiling. The resulting area is divided by the panel width. The area of ​​openings, as a rule, is not excluded from the calculations, since it is required to have a margin in case of a mistake.

1. If the calculation results in a fractional number of panels, then rounding up to a whole number is performed.

2. Before work, a stock of two panels is created.

In addition to panels, various finishing elements are installed during cladding.

1. Starting profile - with a shape in the form of the letter "P". Fastening the panels begins with the installation of such an element.
2. The finishing profile is “F” shaped. Laying the panels ends with such an element.
3. Outside Corner - Used when sheathing walls with a right outside corner.
4. Internal Corner - Used when cladding walls with an internal right angle.
5. Universal Corner - Used to close seams in corners. Usually has a decorative appearance.
6. Connecting profile - with the shape of the letter "H". The element is used to extend panels in length.
7. Ceiling plinth - fits along the joints of ceiling and wall panels. As a rule, it is used in conjunction with connecting corners.

Selection of crate elements

One of the following methods is chosen for laying PVC panels:

The frameless method has a significant drawback that limits its use. With this fixing, the damaged panel cannot be replaced. In addition, in this case, it is impossible to lay insulation, which is necessary for covering the balcony.

In this regard, balconies are usually sheathed with PVC panels in a frame manner. With this method, the crate is mounted from various materials:

• wooden slats- inexpensive and easily processed material. In the case of special impregnation, the material does not rot and does not burn. A significant drawback is deformation upon drying;
• metal profiles- have increased strength and durability. A significant disadvantage is the high price;
• plastic profiles- resistant to moisture. Significant disadvantages are the high cost and the ability to withstand light loads. Most often, such profiles are used for ceiling sheathing.

For cladding balconies, wooden battens are mainly used. When good, they do not get wet, and therefore do not deform after drying.

For the lathing, slats with dimensions of 40X20 mm are needed. Their number is calculated in the following way:

• the length of each wall and the distance to the ceiling are measured. The spacing between the slats is selected up to 50 cm. After that, the distance to the ceiling is divided by 50 and multiplied by the length of all walls. The resulting number is rounded;
• measurements of the lengths of door and window openings are made. The resulting lengths of the slats are rounded and added to the resulting length for the walls;
• additionally, two slats are mounted on each wall to the ceiling. Their total length is added to the value obtained earlier;
• 5% of the length is added to the resulting total length of the rails, which will be in demand when trimming.

Preparatory activities

A high level of coziness and comfort after facing with plastic panels can be achieved when the balcony is glazed, has good sealing and is insulated. There are such rules for preparing for sheathing.

1. For glazing the balcony, plastic windows are installed. They are in demand due to their high tightness, durability and low price.
2. Before sheathing, polystyrene or expanded polystyrene is prepared to insulate the balcony.
3. is carried out with mortar or polyurethane foam.
4. and the fungus must be removed, and the affected area is treated with a special compound.
5. If the main walls on the balcony are made of gratings, then they are dismantled, and the free space is filled up with bricks or other materials.

Installation of wooden lathing

The condition of the laid surface largely depends on the lathing. Before its installation, the direction of installation of the panels is selected. Without a doubt, horizontal panels visually increase the width of the balcony, while vertical panels increase its height.

The peculiarity of mounting the battens is as follows: for horizontal panels, the strips are mounted vertically, and for vertical panels they are mounted horizontally.

Experts believe that the most convenient installation is when the walls are sheathed vertically, and the ceiling is across the balcony.

The wooden lathing is mounted in the following order:

• the marking of the ceiling and walls is carried out;

• slats are cut to size, and mounting holes are drilled into them;

• along the level, starting from the corners, slats are attached to the walls and ceiling with a step of 50 cm. The first strip is installed at a height of 30 mm from the floor. Be sure to need slats around the perimeter of the door and window openings. Fastening is recommended with dowels;

Panel mounting

A balcony sheathed with plastic panels looks attractive if respected general installation rules:

• each panel is securely fixed in the groove of the previous panel until it clicks;

Step-by-step balcony cladding is performed as follows:

• the ceiling is sheathed first. Initially, a starting profile is installed around the entire perimeter. So that there is no skewing of the panels, the installation is level-regulated;

• the entire surface of the ceiling is sequentially sheathed;

• the panels are cut to size and joined to the start panel and then to each other. In this way, the entire area of ​​the walls is covered;

To make the sheathed surface look monolithic and have an even appearance, installation work is carried out carefully and without haste.

So, it is not difficult to make a balcony cladding from plastic panels. It is no secret that any renovation in an apartment requires financial costs. The cost of repairs will be significantly reduced if the balcony is finished with such material.

To fix the information, watch our video tutorial:

Balconies and loggias

How to sheathe a balcony with PVC panels: think less - do more

From the author: hello, dear reader of the Seberemont repair and construction portal! We will devote this article to one simple, but at the same time, relevant topic: how to sheathe a balcony with PVC panels. We will find out what are the advantages of this finishing material over alternative options, how to work correctly with plastic panels, and also consider several installation methods. In general, today we sheathe the balcony (loggia) with PVC panels.

The title for the article was not chosen by chance. The fact is that even an inexperienced master can sheathe a loggia (or balcony) with his own hands using this material (and indeed not a master at all - he can also). The material is quite light both in weight and in processing. And this is its advantage over, say, OSB or even GCR. Often, balconies sheathed with PVC are completely sheathed with this material, that is, the material is attached both to the walls and to the parapet from the inside, and to the ceiling. And such a picture can be observed in a variety of residential premises, as well as in offices and other public institutions.

What is the reason for such popularity of this material? Now we will find out what makes PVC panels such a popular solution for finishing balconies and loggias.

Advantages, disadvantages and general properties of PVC

Now we will highlight the main advantages of "our hero for", so that you have an idea of ​​what you will be dealing with. So, the advantages of PVC panels:

• light weight. The material does not load the structure, and therefore can be applied almost anywhere: even in a wooden house, even in a panel house, even in a brick one. In a word - versatility in its purest form;
• several mounting options. We will talk about them a little later, in the course of the text;
• an excellent opportunity to lay insulation between our finishing material and the wall. Although, this advantage is given to us by both gypsum plasterboards and OSB boards;
• absolute immunity to moisture. Therefore, the material is used not only on the balcony, but also in the bathroom and even in the interior decoration of car washes. Yes, there is also a moisture-resistant gypsum board and OSB, but this solution will cost more;
• hygiene. Plastic is easy to wash, it does not absorb odors, dirt does not eat into it;
• immunity to temperature influences of the environment. Yes, from an extremely high temperature, of course, plastic will melt, and from extreme cold it will become very fragile, but we are talking about the temperature that we have on the street. Nothing will happen to the panels from the usual summer heat or winter cold;
• ease of installation. As we said in the introduction, even an amateur can handle the job;
• the possibility of using various materials for fixing. Plastic panels can be mounted using dowels / self-tapping screws, and with a construction stapler and staples, and nailed. The method of fastening does not particularly affect the result of the work;
• a wide range of color solutions: from classic white - to the most incredible shades: purple, pink, acid green or toxic orange. There are also panels with various repeating images. In a word, decor for every taste and color;
• a wide range of sizes (10 cm - 25 cm - in width and 2 m - 4 m - in length);
• relatively low cost.

Here is such a seemingly excellent material. But, in fairness, let's list its shortcomings in order to provide you with the most complete picture for making a decision. So, the disadvantages of PVC panels:

• fragility. On the one hand, yes, plastic is very soft and flexible, but on the other hand, the material is quite easy to damage. Not only during the installation process, but also after the completion of the work. The material can be inadvertently damaged by the mop during cleaning or when transporting furniture and other items. In addition, the panel can be damaged simply by pushing it with your finger. In general, the material is quite soft, which is both its advantage and its disadvantage;

• inner emptiness. No, not in a metaphorical sense, but in the most direct sense. Although the panels have stiffening ribs inside, they are hollow. Yes, this makes the material practically weightless, but at the same time it is a significant drawback. For example, you lean on the wall in the place where the sheathing element does not pass and the distance between the beams is more than 1.5 m - you can break the structure with a significant degree of probability;
• exactingness to the structure of wood (frame). The wood must not be damp or improperly dried. The fact is that after installation the tree will begin to shrink and the panels will "lead". As a result, the wall will be curved, and this is not at all what we need;
• flammability. I'm not sure if there are often sources of open fire on your balcony, but nevertheless, the flammability of the material should be considered. The material does not burn so much as it melts, giving off pungent, saturated smoke. Moreover, he corrects rather quickly;
• susceptibility to abrasive agents. The panels are easy to clean, but they cannot be cleaned with abrasive cleaners. The same goes for brushes and scrapers. The smooth surface of plastic panels is very easy to scratch, therefore, only soft sponges and liquid detergents should be used during cleaning;
• chemical activity. It is not a fact that in the context of our conversation this is very relevant, but in order to give you the most complete picture of the material in question, this property should also be taken into account. You are unlikely to treat PVC with acid, but even if you want to wipe the contaminated area with a sponge soaked in alcohol (hydrogen peroxide), it would not be a good idea. The alcohol composition will erase the gloss from the surface.

And so, we have decided on the strengths and weaknesses of the finishing material. As we can see, it has significant drawbacks, but this is not at all a reason to refuse to use it. Still, the material is very practical and versatile, and its weaknesses and characteristic features should be taken into account and not violate the rules of installation and operation. In any case, now you know exactly what you cannot do with the clapboard. Now let's talk about what to look for when buying in a hardware store:

• weight / number of stiffeners. As a rule, in shops at the stand you can find several samples of lining. If you take one of them in your hands and feel that it is suspiciously light, you should not buy it. Most likely, there is an insufficient number of partitions (stiffeners) inside, which negatively affects the strength of the panel;
• Wall thickness. Within the normal range, the wall thickness should be in the range of 0.5–0.7 mm. And if this indicator is less, then, again, the material will be too fragile, and you do not need a large amount of rejection;
• resistance to ultraviolet radiation. Be sure to check this parameter with the seller. If this indicator is too low, - after a fairly short time after installation, the lining will become fragile, like a maple leaf dried in the sun;
• smell. This is perhaps the most (!) Important factor. The lining should not have a strong specific smell (for example, oil). If the mass exudes a pungent, unpleasant odor, this indicates the toxicity and low quality of the plastic. In addition, this smell is unlikely to disappear over time, as an unscrupulous seller, whose main task is to fulfill the sales plan, can convince you of this. Do not take material from this series;
• marriage. Examine the panels carefully for cracks and chips. It is also important that there are no streaks on any of the panels, since characteristic streaks indicate that low quality secondary raw materials were used in the production;
• the presence of a protective film. Each plate must be covered with a protective plastic wrap on both sides. If not, the panels will scratch during transportation. And in general, the absence of a film can only be tolerated by a manufacturer of low-quality products, which, of course, you should not buy.

Well, now you know almost everything you need about the properties and choice of PVC. Another important fact that we cannot ignore. If, after you have read the list of shortcomings, you change your mind about using this material, choose MDF. As a rule, you can buy MDF in the same department of the store where PVC is sold. It is a medium density fiberboard (in English it sounds like Medium Density Fibreboard. Therefore, the boards are called MDF abbreviation).

You should not associate this material with chipboard or fiberboard, since MDF is an environmentally friendly material. In its manufacture, toxic glue is not used, as is the case with the above examples. The only thing in which MDF conditionally loses to PVC is in its resistance to moisture. The material is not designed for exposure to humid environments. Installation methods, by the way, are practically the same for these two materials.

Now we will talk about the installation of this material. And we will start, perhaps, from the ceiling.

Ceiling on the balcony made of plastic panels

To properly mount PVC on the ceiling, you must first make the necessary calculations. Let's start with them.

In hardware stores, PVC panels are usually sold separately: the length of one strip is 3 m / 6 m.But if you have made all the necessary calculations earlier, then in the store they will most likely be kindly cut to you in accordance with the parameters of your room.

• we calculate the area of ​​the ceiling. Suppose the parameters of your balcony are 1.5 × 3 m ⇒ S (ceiling area) = 4.5 m². In principle, knowing what the length and width of the balcony is, you can already go to the store, since this knowledge will be enough for the sellers to provide you with the required amount of material;
• we calculate the amount of material. If the width of the panel is, say, 10 cm, and the length is 3 m, then it would be logical to make the sheathing along the length. This means that we need 15 panels of 3 meters in length to cover the 1.5 x 3 m ceiling.

Keep in mind that you need to keep the material in reserve in case of rejection. This is no more than 20% of the total. Now you need to calculate the amount of timber. Usually, for such purposes, a beam with a cross section of 2 × 3 cm is chosen. But this is in the event that it is not supposed to insulate the ceiling on the balcony. The step between the planks should be about a meter.

Since the timber should be placed perpendicular to the direction of the PVC panels, we will mount it in width, that is, perpendicular to the three-meter wall. If we assume that the step between the panels is 1 m, then we need 6 m of timber (3 by 2 m).

In addition to PVC panels and beams for the construction of the frame (if any), we also need a ceiling plinth. For this purpose, an ordinary floor plinth of the corresponding shade is also suitable for us. It should be mounted in the same way as if you were installing it between the wall and the floor. The only difference is that it needs to be turned over. Naturally, you need to install it only after the walls are finished.

If the perimeter of the balcony is 9 m (P = 3 + 3 + 1.5 + 1.5 = 9), and the length of the plinth is 2.5 m, then we need 4 strips (actually, 3.6, but the plinth available in hardware stores only as a whole). Also, if you use a "classic" floor plinth in your work, then do not forget about the fittings, i.e. about internal corners, connections, screws and dowels.

In general, the necessary fasteners and tools must be said separately.

Here's what we need (or may need in theory) to do the right thing on the loggia / balcony:

• electric jigsaw. This tool will be needed in the manufacture of the frame, as well as for cutting the plastic panels themselves, especially for cross-cutting;
• hacksaw. It is more expedient to perform longitudinal cutting of the elements of the future ceiling using a hacksaw, and not a jigsaw;
• electric drill;
• screwdriver;
• self-tapping screws / dowels (50–120 mm), - the fastening must penetrate into the ceiling by at least 30 mm;
• construction stapler with the necessary set of staples;
• construction level;
• hammer (you cannot do without it during repair work);
• knife. A knife with replaceable blades, used for cutting cardboard, will work.

Now you can proceed to active steps and decisively proceed with the installation of the frame.

As for the installation, you need to decide whether the ceiling will be insulated. If you have a balcony on the last floor, then you still need to insulate the ceiling, because according to the laws of physics, the heated air rises, therefore a significant part of the loss of precious heat falls on the ceiling.

First of all, you need to check if there are any leaks in the overlap. If there is, they must be eliminated without fail (!). From high humidity, mold forms, and it is harmful not only to the body, but also to building materials. If fungal formations take place, then the ceiling (and if they have spread to the walls or parapet, then this also applies to them) must be treated with an antiseptic. A penetrating primer is also suitable for us. It is advisable to apply the product in several layers.

You can insulate the ceiling, as well as the walls, using materials such as:

• mineral wool (mineral wool);
• Styrofoam;
• penoplex;
• penofol. This is the thinnest insulation. But its main advantage lies not in its thickness, as in the previous three, but in the fact that it has a foil coating. Thanks to the foil, it creates the effect of a thermos in the room, reflecting heat like a mirror. Usually it is used after the installation of polystyrene or polystyrene foam.

Now let's get down to the installation work:

• we determine the level at which the ceiling finish will be located and apply the markings;
• we mount the fastening element according to the marked marking. By the way, for these purposes there is a special plinth with a groove for inserting trim elements, which is quite convenient;
• we fix the beam / profile on the floor itself. It should be secured with hanging fasteners and dowels / self-tapping screws. Naturally, all elements of the frame must be in the same plane. To achieve this result, use a thread drawn from corner to corner. It goes without saying that one cannot do without a building level;
• we lay a layer of insulation;
• we will install PVC panels. It is logical that the protective plastic film must be removed before installation.

Before installing the panels, there is one more thing to be sure. Check if the plane of the ceiling intersects with the path along which the windows will open. In other words, is the ceiling interfering with the opening / closing of windows? It would seem that the situation is comical, but, oddly enough, this also happens.

When installing panels on the ceiling, there should not be any special problems: we just insert the strips into the grooves, fix them to the frame using a construction stapler (or screws / nails) and thus cover the entire area. We will focus on the fact that you need to hammer the fasteners only into the upper part of the groove. There is a chance that the last element of our structure will have to be cut to length, according to measurements.

It is possible to construct a multi-level PVC suspended structure, as in the construction of a suspended ceiling made of plasterboard sheets. Read more about this in the article "". Now let's move on to the walls. By the way, another outcome of events is possible: first, installation of panels on the walls, and then on the ceiling.

Wall cladding

As we mentioned at the beginning of our text, plastic lining to the mills can be attached in several ways (in fact, there are two of them):

• fixation to the frame (crate);
• gluing.

The first method should be used if you plan to lay insulation or have curved walls in the room. If you plan to make a logical continuation of the room (kitchen / living room / bedroom) from the loggia / balcony, which is very practical and expedient, you still need to insulate. After all, on the balcony you can not only dry clothes and store all kinds of nonsense. Here you can organize a recreation area, and a greenhouse, and a library, and a workplace with a computer.

In a word, warm yourself, gentlemen!

Insulation materials, tools and materials for wall insulation are the same that were used for finishing the ceiling. And the installation has no fundamental differences. Judge for yourself:

• lathing markings on the wall. Reiki should be laid out perpendicular to the panels. The step between them, as a rule, is 50 cm;
• cutting of lathing elements. Do not remember that the wood must necessarily be dry, otherwise, when it does begin to shrink, it will seriously "lead" the plastic. Moreover, it will "lead" her not at all where we need it;
• fixing the frame elements to the wall. When doing this, do not forget to use a level and a plumb line. This is a very important stage in the work. if adjustment is required, then under the place where the self-tapping screw will be screwed in, you need to put a wooden block of the required thickness. No more, no less. And one more important nuance: the ends of the beams should not reach the side walls by about 2 cm.This distance is called a delatation gap and it is needed so as not to interfere with the tree's free deformation under the influence of changes in humidity and temperature. Being saturated with moisture, for example, in spring and autumn, wooden logs stretch a little and thicken, and when the air is dry, on the contrary, they shrink a little. This is a natural process, and this must be taken into account when working, regardless of whether you are mounting the frame to the ceiling or walls;
• installation of insulation. Any material (be it mineral wool, polystyrene or polystyrene foam) must adhere closely to the frame elements. If it is flush with the bars, then it's great, if it doesn't reach a little, that's also good. But the insulation should not protrude beyond the thickness of the frame. As a rule, 5 cm of insulation is enough to insulate balconies and loggias. Although, the thicker, the warmer. For a parapet, for example, a double layer is required - 10 cm, because this is usually the coldest part. Therefore, we construct a double lathing, but only so that the elements of the frame of the first level do not intersect with the elements of the second. Still, wood is not the best heat insulator. Based on the foregoing, we conclude that we need a timber with a section of 50 × 50 mm;
• inserting a plastic die into the molding;
• fixing the plastic panel to the frame using nails / freezing screws / staples;
• inserting the second board into the groove of the first - and so on.

Logical conclusion

Until next time, dear reader. All the best!

Good afternoon everyone!

Years go by, but people don't change. The other day I met my classmate, with whom I made stools during labor lessons.

He still remained a lover of doing everything with his own hands and decided to arrange a surprise for his wife on March 8: to update the balcony. But there were difficulties with the installation of plastic panels.

He started asking me what he was doing wrong. I gave him a couple of practical advice, but for myself I realized that it was necessary to fix them on "electronic paper", since not everyone knows some of the nuances. You can find out about them further.

Finishing balconies and loggias with plastic panels

Decorating a balcony is not an entirely simple process that requires not only certain skills, but also the selection of specific materials. Such familiar wallpaper, so often used for interior decoration, is not suitable, as well as painting. This is due to unfavorable external factors that regularly affect the loggia. Temperature extremes, high humidity, fungus and mold can destroy even the best cosmetic repairs. For this reason, we suggest that you approach the issue of finishing more responsibly and consider the option of covering the balcony with plastic - using the laminated panels "Vek" and "Vivipan".

Laminated or conventional plastic cladding panels?

Having made the decision to decorate the balcony with plastic panels, you will be presented with a choice: the material can be ordinary or laminated.

The difference lies not only in the technology of creation, but also in the appearance of the balcony, which should cause admiration, mixed with the envy of neighbors.

So, practicality, accessibility and aesthetics are becoming the main factors in the popularity of this finishing material.

The advantages of finishing the loggia with plastic panels

Plastic is a material that has a number of advantages, including not only ease of care, lightness and practicality. Below are the main advantages of cladding a room, in particular a loggia, with plastic panels.

1. Durability... Due to the excellent characteristics of PVC, repairs with its use will last for many years. The quality of plastic panels is close to that of a laminate. And scratches and minor mechanical damage that may occur over time will not be noticeable to the naked eye.
2. Aesthetics... Due to the variety of textures and colors, the use of laminated panels allows you to experiment with the interior and make a full-fledged room out of the loggia. Even the most demanding customers will be surprised by the variety offered.
3. Environmental friendliness... Decorating the loggia with plastic is a safe process. The material is non-toxic, which is why such cladding is widespread in medical and children's educational institutions. Even the polyurethane adhesive used in the production of plastics does not contain harmful substances.
4. Ease of installation... The dimensions of each panel are 2700x250x90 cm. When decorating the loggia with plastic, they are attached to the crate with a molding, due to which the structure has no gaps and seams and looks perfect.
5. Resistance to external influences... There is no need to worry that over time the panels will lose their decorative effect, burning out in the sun. The properties of laminated materials do not change under the influence of ultraviolet radiation, moisture, temperature extremes.
6. Affordable prices... Balcony cladding with plastic panels is also so popular due to its affordable cost.
7. Can be attached to any material... PVC panels can be attached to concrete, brick and even plywood partitions.

By improving the loggia in this way, you will receive a good-quality repair that will last for more than a dozen years. The materials used are of excellent quality and availability. We are focused on the result, which is manifested in your words of gratitude and sincere smiles.

Source: http://www.balconservice.ru/

Decorating balconies and loggias is a good way to get additional usable space at minimal cost. These are very specific premises, with their own microclimate, so the usual finish, without preliminary surface preparation, will quickly become unusable. The approach to the arrangement should take into account all the features of loggias and balconies.

We will try to figure out how to decorate the loggia inside, the photos will help us illustrate the whole process in stages. We will also consider the best way to sheathe a room with different operating conditions. We will evaluate the physicochemical and aesthetic characteristics of the most popular finishing materials: PVC and MDF panels, lining, textured plaster, stone, drywall.

High-quality interior decoration of balconies and loggias always begins with the preparation of the premises, it is necessary to make repairs, strengthen the parapet, and repair cracks. Free the loggia from things, clean it from debris.

Examine the concrete carefully, beat off the broken pieces with a hammer, abrade all metal parts with an abrasive to remove rust. If the surfaces are affected by fungus, it is necessary to burn it out with a blowtorch and treat it with copper sulfate.

Seal the cracks with sand-cement mortar. Reinforce the flimsy parapet with metal corners. If cold glazing of the loggia is planned, then weld or knock down the frame from the bars.

If you want to make a warm room out of the loggia, the parapet should be overlaid with aerated concrete blocks. Further, all surfaces are treated with waterproofing compounds, and the loggia is insulated, a layer of vapor barrier is laid, and the crate is filled.

How to choose materials

The choice of materials for finishing the loggia largely depends on what kind of functional load you put on it.

If it is finishing balconies and loggias without glazing, frost-resistant plastic, lining, blockhouse, artificial stone, plaster and paint for external work, siding, corrugated board will do.

For a glazed, insulated, but not heated loggia, it is recommended to choose finishing materials adapted for use in cold rooms.

First of all, they must tolerate temperature changes well, and are not afraid of UV rays. For finishing the insulated room, there is no question of how to sheathe the loggia inside, you can use any materials, depending on the design of the room, but mainly it is drywall, lining, plastic panels.

In addition to practicality in decoration, the aesthetics of the room plays an important role, especially if the loggia will be remade for a room.

Note!

Finishing with decorative plaster in combination with brick or stone is suitable for all types of loggias. Usually this technique is used to create a loft or Provence style. But this is a rather expensive method of finishing, requiring the skills of applying plaster, therefore, this method of decorating loggias is rarely done by hand.

But plasterboard cladding of warm loggias is quite popular, but this finishing option only initially seems cheap, then you need to fill in the seams, process everything with adhesives, followed by finishing. There is already room for a designer flight. Wallpaper, rattan or cork cloth, tiles are glued to drywall, wallpaper and stone are combined, with proper surface preparation, even artistic painting is possible. Note that this finishing method is used if the loggia is attached to the apartment or is equipped for living space.

Lathing

Regardless of the material chosen for finishing the loggia, in order to create a ventilation gap for ventilating the heat-insulating layer, and for the convenience of installing the cladding, it is necessary to make a crate. It can be made of both wooden blocks and galvanized metal profiles.

If vertical sheathing with clapboard or blockhouse is planned, then the lathing is done horizontally, and vice versa. Under any finishing materials, it is necessary to lay the sheathing bars: from above, where the sheathing will end, from below, at the floor-wall junction, in each corner, under the windows, the sheathing should also frame the doorway. The middle bars of the lathing are laid in increments of 40-100 cm; for the rigidity of the structure, it is necessary to install additional bars perpendicular to the main guides.

Helpful advice!

The lathing is attached to the wall with dowel-nails; for strength, the plastic socket should be 1-2 sizes smaller than the self-tapping screw. All wood is treated with an antiseptic; impregnation with a fire-resistant compound is also necessary. Be sure to check the correctness of the planes with the level, the geometry of the entire skin depends on it.

In the series of houses P-44t on the loggia, a fire hatch is provided, which is closed with a metal cover, which greatly complicates the installation of the frame for subsequent finishing. In some houses, the metal shield can be cut off, but usually a fence is held on this cover, then the hatch should simply be bypassed with a crate. On loggias like a boat, there is a concrete pillar in the corner, which is most often hidden inside a built-in wardrobe.

Finishing options

In addition to objective circumstances, such as the microclimate and the chosen design for the room, the interior decoration of the loggia largely depends on your aesthetic preferences and the budget for repairs. Each material has its own indisputable advantages and disadvantages, then we will consider the most popular finishing options.

Lining

For example, lining can be wooden and plastic, in appearance they are identical, in fact, both options can be used in the same design. In addition, both plastic and wood are suitable for cladding warm and cold loggias, so in this matter, the choice remains only for the price and technology of cladding.

Note!

A distinctive feature of the Euro lining is a tongue-and-groove lock and an 8-millimeter groove, this configuration greatly facilitates the cladding, and it also ensures that even when the wood gets wet and over-dried, the finish will not crack or deform.

On the reverse side of the lining, grooves are provided, which provides additional ventilation of the skin, even when condensate accumulates, it flows down the recesses, thus, the material absorbs moisture less. The front side of the lining can be rounded, with a chamfer, with a recess, or absolutely flat.

Natural lining "breathes", which is especially important for regions with high humidity, wood creates natural ventilation, thereby additionally regulating the microclimate of the loggia. Lining a loggia with clapboard made of wood is suitable for almost all styles of loggia decoration, the texture of natural wood is already an interior decoration in itself. After sanding, it can be painted in different colors with enamel, tinted with stain, oil, thrown to make the texture even brighter, apply a patina. It is recommended to cover the lining on top with a primer and varnish.

Natural lining is defenseless against fungi, microorganisms, and also fire hazardous. Therefore, finishing the loggia with Euro-lining with your own hands requires additional work before sheathing: all surfaces of the loggia, lining and lathing must be well waterproofed, soaked 2-3 times with antiseptics, be sure to treat with a refractory compound, and on top, additionally treat the wooden finishing elements with PVA putty. In areas with difficult climates, it is better to use larch lining for cladding, if it is pine, then at least the loggia should be glazed.

Plastic PVC lining is not so whimsical in decoration, but in appearance it is identical to natural. The lining of PVC does not rot, is environmentally friendly, is not susceptible to fungi, does not require additional processing and finishing. Its texture is very similar to that of natural wood, but the plastic finish does not "breathe", so it is recommended to cover the insulation with a high-quality vapor barrier membrane.

Plastic lining is sensitive to a large delta of temperatures, moreover, it deforms when heated by UV rays, therefore, in hot areas and on loggias facing the sunny side, this finishing method will require mandatory glazing and thick curtains.

Sheathing a loggia with clapboard does not require special skills, installation is simple and accessible to any craftsman who knows how to handle simple tools. Next, we will describe the step-by-step instructions on how to sheathe a loggia with clapboard yourself.

For finishing the loggia with clapboard, it is better to use a wooden lathing or specially designed guides with grooves, you can fix the cladding with self-tapping screws or clamps. Of course, guides and cleats make finishing much easier, but this method of cladding will require financial costs.

Note!

For the convenience of filling the lining, especially if you decide to make a beautiful ornament out of the lath, it is recommended to sew up the crate with plywood or OSB sheets. Do not forget to treat materials with protective solutions. This method of cladding will create additional sound insulation and retain heat on the loggia.
The finishing technology is based on the shape of the lining, tenon-groove fastening. The spike is attached to the crate with a self-tapping screw, a nail at an angle to the rail, or clamped with a clip. If the loggia is sheathed horizontally, then the finish starts from the bottom up, if vertically, then from the corner of the end wall to the loggia window, then long walls are sheathed.

The rail is cut to size, applied to the place, leveled, and only then attached. The thorn-groove is inserted next, if necessary, you can knock through the board so that the lining fits exactly in place, and so the rail to the rail to the end.

When sheathing a loggia or balcony with natural wood materials, so that the finish does not deform even when it swells from high humidity, a gap should be left between the cladding and the floor, as well as between the cladding and the ceiling, approximately one centimeter.

Helpful advice!

Tip: If you plan to sheathe the loggia in an original way, then an ornament is drawn on the plywood, the lining is cut according to the scheme, the upholstery of complex patterns starts from the center to the corners of the loggia.

When the walls are sheathed, if the design of the room requires it, the ceiling is hemmed, after which the floor plinth and ceiling cornice are mounted. Before processing the lining on the loggia with a finishing compound, it must be sanded, the plastic lining does not need additional processing.

PVC panels

PVC panels are the absolute leader in budget renovation. The material has very convenient dimensions for trimming a loggia, there is practically no waste during finishing. The top panels are covered with melamine resins, which protects the plastic from chemical and thermal effects. Inside, to protect the panels from mechanical damage, there are special membranes-partitions, a kind of stiffening ribs, such a structure additionally protects the room from noise, retains heat.

Some types of PVC panels are designed for finishing premises in difficult climatic conditions, and can withstand temperatures up to 40 ° C below zero. Plastic does not allow water to pass through, does not need additional lining, and is very easy to maintain during operation. Matte surfaces can be cleaned with abrasives, glossy surfaces can be easily washed with soapy water.

A huge color palette, a large selection of textures, ornaments and patterns make the panels universal for arranging a loggia, even with the most pretentious design. But like any plastic, PVC panels are afraid of direct sunlight, therefore, when decorating the interior of a loggia, it is recommended to provide blinds or blackout curtains.

Decorating loggias with PVC panels starts from the corner of the end wall to the window, if the panels are mounted vertically, with horizontal cladding - from the bottom up. There are 2 ways to install wall panels.

The first installation option is absolutely identical to clapboard cladding, only a special profile is attached in the corner, where the first panel is inserted. The penultimate and last die are installed together. The finishing profile is attached tightly to the window, the last panel is measured in width, cut off 1-3 mm less than the original size. The grooves of the panels are filled with silicone, the dies are folded into a house, the cut edge is inserted into the profile, and the panels are straightened.

The second method of sheathing is suitable for vertical finishing, if the ceiling and floor of the loggia are sheathed. Before finishing the walls on the loggia with panels, a special plinth with a groove is installed above and below. The material is cut to size minus 2-3 mm. First, the upper edge is inserted into the groove, the panel is slightly folded, the lower edge is inserted, the panel is straightened until it clicks.

When all panels are in place, the corners and joints are closed with planks. Watch the video where the do-it-yourself finishing of the loggia is step by step disassembled, the video instruction will help you properly sheathe the surfaces with PVC panels.

The decoration of balconies and loggias, the photos clearly demonstrate this, can be done with completely different materials, in the article we analyzed the characteristics of popular facing materials, and found out what, first of all, should be guided by when choosing a sheathing. Only an integrated approach to the repair of a loggia can guarantee you that the decoration of the loggia will retain its appearance for a long time.

Source: http://freshremont.com/

How to sheathe a balcony with panels

Many owners ignore the issue of finishing the balcony in order to save money, since it is not always used as a living space. But it is not necessary to buy expensive material for this, such as lining or ceramic tiles. Plastic PVC panels can change the appearance of the room and improve its thermal insulation characteristics, which will cost an order of magnitude cheaper and will last just as long. Consider the advantages of this material when cladding a balcony and the technology for installing panels.

Panel selection

The owners of the balcony cladding choose panels made of plastic, as they have many advantages:

1. PVC panels are resistant to moisture, air permeable and do not decay.
2. They are not susceptible to weather conditions, be it heat or cold, so they will not fade in the sun and warp from frost over time.
3. This finishing material allows you to increase the thermal insulation of the room, and also has good sound insulation.
4. The material is not static, i.e. the finish will not collect dust.
5. Caring for such a surface is not a hassle: it is enough to wipe it with a sponge without using special detergents.
6. Plastic panels create an integral harmonious picture with metal-plastic windows.
7. Thanks to the rich color scheme, imitation of wood or stone finish panels, as well as bamboo coating, the presence of matte, glossy, laminated and metallized panels on sale, any design solution can be recreated.

• On the building materials market, narrow plastic panels are presented, the width of which reaches 25 centimeters, and wide ones with a width of 38 cm. The latter are more suitable for finishing the balcony. The panels are 2.7 and 3 meters long.
• Take a closer look at the stiffeners: the more there are, the higher the strength of the panels.
• To assess the quality of the material, it is customary to pay attention to the wrong side. Make sure that the reverse side is uniform in color, there should not be visible inclusions that are not provided for by the color.
• The front side, of course, should be perfect. The presence of a blurred, poorly detailed pattern, visible stiffeners and waves, as well as areas that are not completely painted over, are not allowed.
• Try to join two panels: while you will hear a characteristic click, there should not be a gap on the front surface.
• Do not use defective material - with holes and chips on the surface.
• For work, you will need such tools: a hammer, a drill, a building level, a saw, a puncher, a tape measure, metal scissors.

The preparatory work before covering the balcony with plastic panels is crucial. It is due to the correct preparation that the temperature regime of the balcony changes from "outdoor" to "indoor". It becomes comfortable on the loggia even in winter: when the temperature outside the window reaches minus 20, the room will not be lower than + 17 ° С.

At this stage, the balcony should be glazed, insulated and the joints should be sealed. For glazing the balcony we use PVC double-glazed windows without ventilation slots. We make several double-glazed windows opening - as a rule, 2-4, it is recommended to place them in pairs in the corners. The rest of the windows will be deaf. Also, when glazing the balcony, do not forget to install drainage profiles.

We carry out the insulation of the balcony in the following sequence:

1. All gaps from the street side must be sealed beforehand so that the balcony looks like a deaf box. To do this, use construction foam, a solution made from cement, silicone.
2. First, insulate the room with polystyrene - put it between the rods. When living on the top floor, as well as if the balcony is open above, do not forget to insulate the ceiling by hanging the CD profile on it every 50-70 cm, which will become a crate for finishing. We use dowels for fastening. But wooden slats will not work, since the wood will warp from a leak, and the entire finish will suffer. Then glue the foam into the space formed by the profile strips using silicone.
3. The most time-consuming step is to create the balcony lathing, namely in drilling holes in the fence for the CD profile. In the holes, you have to make a thread (for example, M3) for mounting the battens, such as you did on the ceiling. We use screws for fastening, since the dowels in this case, after a couple of years, will begin to loosen and dangle. Styrofoam is again inserted between the profiles. At this stage, wiring should also be laid, if necessary.

Installing a profile

For cladding a balcony, such a PVC profile is required: straight, corner - two-sided to create a simple corner and triangular for a triple inner corner, when sheathing the window opening that opens onto the balcony, you will also need external corners:

• The straight profile resembles the letter "P". It is customary to attach it to the crate through the sidewall - the one that is wider.
• A simple corner is made up of 2 straight profiles. They are connected at right angles. They put it on the corners, if desired, it is replaced with 2 straight boxes.
• The triple corner is designed for installation in triangular corners - external and internal. The three elements are connected at a 90 ° angle. If you have the skills to work with miter box, then you can do the same without such a profile.
  To attach the profile to the crate, we use self-tapping screws, which have an extended cap called "pancake", and a drill. The guides are made not only in the corners, but also frame the balcony door and windows. When installing, make sure that the profile is not cracked.

Panel mounting

At the next stage, we proceed directly to finishing the balcony with PVC panels, starting to sheathe a solid surface without openings:

1. We start working from the corner of the room. Cut off the cladding panel and insert it into the groove of the pre-fixed box at the bottom. At the same time, the top of the board is held by hand. To insert it into the groove from above, bend it slightly with an arc. If the panel is stuck, lightly slap it with your palm. Secure it with a press washer. On a panel that has a size of 2.5 m, you will need 2-3 fasteners. After installation, check with a spirit level and make sure the panel is level.
2. Let's move on to installing the second panel. All panels have spikes and grooves, thanks to which they are attached to each other. When the tongue and groove come together, you will hear a characteristic click. We act this way until we reach the last and penultimate boards.
3. The last board is partially cut in width by 6-8 mm, so that an empty space will subsequently remain in the profile. We drip a little silicone into the finishing box - 3-4 drops will be enough, then insert the last plastic panel until it stops.
4. Now we put the penultimate one, pushing it over the previous one, push the last one out of the profile so that it sits in the penultimate groove.

Opening decoration

Before finishing the openings, you need to sheathe the rest of the surface with solid boards. The area that remains above and below the opening is sewn up at the very end. The last board is carefully measured before trimming, while all the rest should be tightly spaced between themselves, the dowels should be completely driven into the grooves over the entire area.

If cracks form in the corners when trimming the balcony, then cover them with PVC plinth, fixing it on mounting glue.

To organize the exchange of air with living rooms, make several rows of holes at the bottom of the balcony door, which should have a diameter of 15-20 mm. A decorative lattice is used to disguise them. For air flow, a standard vent is used, located on the balcony window, and in a warm season, all windows.

Decorating a balcony with plastic panels is one way to turn it into a living space where you can make a seating area, a small office, a greenhouse or a personal gym. Plastic panels have appeared on the construction market for a long time and have already won their audience. Their cost is relatively low, and even a novice master can sheathe a balcony with plastic panels.

Decorating the balcony with plastic is preferable for the following reasons:

• The material is not affected by moisture.
• It will not be spoiled by rodents and insects.
• It does not fade under the influence of ultraviolet radiation.
• Not susceptible to cracking after a certain time of operation.
• Has a high level of strength of the front surface.
• Products are produced in a wide range (just colored panels or with imitation of stone, wood, and so on).

Before sheathe the balcony with plastic panels, you must choose the right finishing material. The modern construction market offers products in widths of 25, 36 and 50 cm. For a beginner craftsman, narrow panels are better suited, since they are easier to work with.

Plastic panels are not afraid of moisture and sunlight, and are also unpretentious in maintenance

Do-it-yourself balcony cladding with plastic panels begins with surface preparation. To do this, you need to do the following operations:

1. Remove the old coating, clean the walls from paint, wallpaper residues, and so on.
2. Tap walls and ceiling with a hammer to reveal weak points. Remove loose fragments.
3. Knock down bulges with a puncher and remove dust from surfaces.
4. Seal the holes with cement-sand mortar and leave to dry for 2-3 days.
5. If the flooring isn't ready yet, now is the time to tackle it.

Preparing walls for finishing with PVC panels

At the very end, the walls and ceiling should be treated with an antiseptic primer 2-3 times at intervals of 4 hours. This is required to protect surfaces from mold and mildew formation.

It is important to remember that finishing work can only be carried out on a glazed and insulated balcony. Also, a layer of waterproofing must first be laid, which will keep the base dry. If mineral wool was used as an insulating material, then 2 layers of waterproofing must be installed to prevent it from getting wet.

Required tools and supplies

Sheathing balconies with PVC panels requires the following tools:

• Building level (you can get by with the simplest one).
• A special knife for plasterboard (it is convenient to use it to cut panels for a balcony).
• Construction stapler.
• Phillips screwdriver.
• Screwdriver or electric drill at low speeds.
• Hacksaw for metal.
• Rotary hammer with 6 mm drill bit.

Tools that will be required for finishing the balcony with plastic panels

To sheathe a PVC balcony with your own hands, you need to prepare a number of consumables:

1. Plastic panels for balconies, starting, connecting and F-profiles, outside corners and skirting boards.
2. Dowels (length - 8 cm, thickness 6 mm).
3. Self-tapping screws, staples, cleats, depending on the selected type of fastening.

Consumables required for the installation of PVC panels

How can you fix products on the surface

To sheathe the balcony with plastic, you must also choose the method of attaching these products to the wall. The easiest option is to mount it on liquid nails. This method is perfect if the walls and ceiling on the loggia have been leveled relatively recently, and there are no large drops and blockages. Such a coating will last as long as the glue itself, so it is better to consult the seller about this before buying.

The next option is a metal balcony crate. It is more suitable for installing panels on the ceiling, since in this case the frame must be more durable than on the walls. Working with such material is quite difficult, but the result is worth it.

Metal lathing is most often used for ceiling sheathing

To sheathe a balcony or loggia with plastic panels, a frame made of PVC strips is also used. This option is practically not used by home craftsmen, since it requires skill and accuracy. The installation of the frame is slightly facilitated by the presence of special fixing clips.

But the most popular is the wooden crate. It is the most simple and relatively inexpensive. To carry out this operation, you will need wooden slats 50x20 mm and ordinary dowel screws. Provided there is waterproofing on the loggia, the tree will not deform.

The cladding of the balcony walls with plastic panels is usually made on a wooden crate

Installation on the lathing

This installation option is perfect when the walls are heavily heaped to the side or have a large number of irregularities and other defects. In addition, the presence of cavities under the crate will additionally insulate and soundproof the balcony. Also, if it is planned to install heating radiators or carry out any engineering communications, they can be hidden in the voids under the panels.

Installing the lathing on the balcony allows you to additionally insulate the room

Fasteners for installing products on the lathing

To sheathe balconies with PVC panels, you can use the following fasteners:

1. Self-tapping screws. Depending on the type of frame chosen, self-tapping screws for wood or metal will be required. This type of fixation is distinguished by its reliability and rigidity, despite the fact that the hardware is quite inexpensive. Self-tapping screws 15-20 mm long are suitable for finishing the PVC balcony.
2. Staples. Products are installed in a construction stapler, with the help of which fixation takes place. The advantage of this method is its high speed. But the reliability of such a connection is low. In addition, if it becomes necessary to replace one of the panels, it will be difficult to remove the clips.
3. Kleimers. They are installed in a narrow part of the panel, after which they are fixed with small nails or screws. This option is considered not the most reliable, since kleimers are made of thin metal. This leads to the fact that when even a slight pressure is applied to the panel, the part may be straightened, due to which the PVC product will simply fall off.

Ceiling sheathing

The interior decoration of the balcony starts from the ceiling. To do this, you must first make a crate:

• The first step is to mark the ceiling surface. To do this, determine the center of the ceiling and draw a longitudinal line using a building level. Then markings are carried out along the perimeter of the ceiling, retreating along the wall by 5 cm. The evenness of all lines is checked with a building level.
• After that, along the perimeter of the surface, you need to attach a galvanized profile and drill holes in the wall up to 5 cm deep in increments of 25-30 cm.
• Take the dowel screws and sequentially fix all the profiles under the ceiling so that a metal border is obtained. This must be done using a screwdriver equipped with a magnetic attachment.
• Then you need to install a longitudinal profile under the plastic panels. If the balcony is small, then one product is enough, if its width is more than 1.2 m, then two are required. The fixing takes place in the same way as in the case of the side profiles.
• Further, starting profiles are attached to the longitudinal strip, on which the panels will be installed on the balcony.
• If you plan to install lamps, then it is necessary to stretch the wiring at this stage.

Installation of lathing on the ceiling under plastic panels

Now the direct finishing of the balcony with panels begins:

1. The first plastic strip is mounted in the starting profile and fixed on the longitudinal rail with self-tapping screws for metal.
2. The following panels are installed in the groove of the previous ones, and the free edge is also fixed with metal fasteners.
3. Now, you may need to trim the material. The spike of the last product is cut to 5 mm, after which the panel is installed in the groove of the previous one.

On a note! Trimming the panels is necessary to adjust the gaps, but if you do not want to do this, then you can purchase special plastic moldings.

This completes the finishing work on the ceiling on the balcony. You can get acquainted in more detail with the process of sheathing with plastic panels by watching the video below.

Wall decoration

The next step in finishing the balconies is wall cladding. For this, it is better to use a wooden crate:

• The first two planks are mounted taking into account the building level at a distance of 10-15 cm from the floor and ceiling.
• Then the vertical guides are installed so that they form a right angle with the horizontal ones.
• A metal profile is attached under the window, which will later become the basis for the window sill.
• On surfaces without openings, only horizontal guides can be dispensed with.
• After that, horizontal and vertical wooden products are installed to the wall using dowel screws with a step of 0.4-0.6 m.
• To decorate the corners, small beams are used, which are connected with self-tapping screws for wood.

Fastening of wooden lathing is carried out using self-tapping screws or dowel screws

Important! If the installation of a heating system is planned on the balcony, then it is important to allocate a niche for this even at the stage of arranging the lathing.

This is followed by the installation of PVC panels in the same way as described above. Then all edges and outer corners are closed with special plastic plugs, and skirting boards are mounted on the floor covering. If a radiator is installed, then it is covered with a grill to provide access for the air flow.

Installation on glue

In this case, marking and no additional fasteners are required. The walls are prepared, after which liquid nails are applied to the back of the panel and pressed against the surface. It is better to remove the remnants of glue that gets on the edges of the panel immediately, since after hardening it will have to be cut off with a knife. The next product is mounted in the same way, but with the spike in the groove of the previous one. This is how the entire area is processed, and the corners and edges are closed with plugs.

Some subtleties of finishing

Above is the standard technology for surface finishing on a balcony. But there are also some tricks that will make the coating last longer and have a presentable appearance:

1. The joints and walls must be decorated with a plastic start to mask the transition.
2. On the floor, the joint will be hidden by a plinth, but it is better to close the corners with a special profile.
3. Instead of a profile, you can use a plug of your own production. To do this, it is necessary to remove a strip of plastic 0.5-1 cm wide from the remaining panel, after which it should be heated with a construction hairdryer and bent by placing a block. The result is a corner.

After all of the above, the dilemma of how to make repairs on the balcony with your own hands should not arise. The main thing is to follow the given recommendations and choose materials carefully. Going for a purchase, it will not be superfluous to take with you a person who has competence in this matter, so as not to purchase low-quality products.

After the balcony is glazed, it is the turn of its interior decoration. First of all, choose the type of material that suits you.

Now there is a huge variety of materials on the market, which makes the choice somewhat difficult. If you are on a budget, there are fewer options.

Most often, PVC panels are chosen. In this article we will talk specifically about them, or rather about their features, advantages and disadvantages, as well as which panels are suitable for the balcony.

Classification of plastic panels

Plastic panels are volumetric PVC strips with longitudinal stiffeners inside. You can choose seamless PVC panels, which, when assembled, form solid canvases, or seam panels, which, when assembled, have a gap on the canvas, visually stretching the room.

There are several classifications of PVC panels:

1) By size: panels come in standard sizes - 2.5-6 m and 0.44-2.44 m.For balconies, PVC panels with a width of 0.25-0.4 m are used.

They also use plastic lining. It is narrower (0.1-0.2 m). Also suitable for ceilings.

2) By the type of coating: the top layer of the panels can be coated with thermal printing (the drawing is applied using a special thermal film, and then varnished to give shine), offset printing (the drawing is applied in a typographic form and also varnished, the image can be varied, but more often use an imitation of natural stone) and, finally, the third option is a laminated film glued to plastic (the pattern can also be different).

This material is easy to care for, it has a low price, so it is often used.

3) According to the production method, there are two types of PVC panels:

• pressing and stamping panels - made of standard plastic by pressing it;
• sandwich panels - consist of two layers of PVC, between which there is a layer of insulation (mineral wool or expanded polystyrene). These panels do not require thermal, hydro and vapor barrier. But they are small in size, which is a little inconvenient during installation.

Pros and cons of PVC panels on the balcony

Nowadays, plastic is used everywhere. Correct decoration of balconies was no exception. PVC panels have a lot of advantages:

• environmentally friendly material that does not emit toxic fumes;
• resistant to moisture;
• easy installation on any surface without prior leveling;
• small weight, which is important for a balcony;
• low cost;
• a huge selection of colors and patterns.

The material also has several small drawbacks:

• when heated, an unpleasant odor emanates from it;
• may lose shape during sudden temperature changes, so it is better to pre-insulate the balcony;
• are easily damaged by mechanical stress, so choose not cheap thin panels, but panels with a thickness of at least 0.8 cm.

Types of mounting profiles

For the installation of PVC panels, special mounting profiles are required.

Straight profiles are fixed to the lathing from the side of the cross member or from the side of the wide side part.

Corner dihedral profiles must be installed on the outer and inner corners.

Finishing process in stages

Self-assembly of PVC panels is not as difficult as you might think. In this article, we will consider finishing the balcony with plastic panels in photo reports.

In fact, even if you have no experience in this area, you will still succeed. The main thing is to follow the rules, which we will talk about.

In addition, prepare the necessary equipment:

Magnetic screwdriver,

Drill or hammer drill,

Polyurethane foam,

Plastic corners,

Skirting boards,

Window profiles,

Thermal insulation (expanded polystyrene or mineral wool),

Suspensions,

Galvanized metal profiles,

Dowels or small screws.

First step. Installation of the lathing.

This stage should be started after the installation of steam, hydro and thermal insulation.

Keep in mind that the entire sheathing will be attached to the crate, so install it as tightly as possible.

Begin the installation by deciding on the location of the lathing frame. Next, attach the U-shaped profile to the walls with a distance of 0.5-0.7 m between the slats using dowels or self-tapping screws.

Second phase. Installation of PVC panels on the ceiling.

Start finishing the balcony from the ceiling. Install the metal frame, and then proceed as follows:

1) Fasten galvanized metal starter profiles around the perimeter of the ceiling.

2) Using a puncher, make holes in the profile and in the wall, insert the dowels into them and screw the profile with a screwdriver.

3) Fix the galvanized profile in the center of the ceiling using iron hangers. If your balcony is approximately 120 cm wide, then fix one center profile. If the width is greater, then two.

4) Attach starter profiles for plastic panels to the center profile.

5) Route the cables to the locations of the lighting fixtures.

6) Insert the first panel into the starting profiles and screw it with self-tapping screws to the guide, as well as along the edges.

7) Insert the following panels in the same way butt to the previous ones, screwing them to the metal profile.

8) Cut the last panel to the required size so that it goes over the previous one by 0.5 cm (and not 0.7 cm like the others), and then reinstall it.

Stage three. Installation of panels on walls.

This is the final stage in finishing the balcony with PVC panels. You should start with the space under the window. This process is similar to working with a ceiling.

First, attach the metal profile to the bottom of the window sill. Guided by the side profiles using the building level. Next, fix the profile to the floor.

Then install metal hangers in the center of the wall under the window at a distance of about 0.5 m from each other.

Fill the space between the wall and the metal profile with thermal insulation, and the cracks with polyurethane foam. Attach the guide metal profile to the hangers.

As you can see, this is easy enough. PVC panels are not only cheap, but also quite pleasant-looking material. Thanks to him, you can easily and at minimal cost put your balcony in order.

Video: The process of finishing with plastic panels of the loggia