Sooner or later, you have to change the interior doors. The procedure is not so complicated that it is imperative to hire a specialist. If you have at least some skills in handling a saw, a level and a plumb line, you can tighten a few screws - do it yourself. When replacing, before installing the interior door, the old one must be dismantled. And here, too, there are features. All the intricacies - in a photo and video with detailed instructions.

Interior doors are made from different materials. Moreover, the material of both the door leaf and the frame differs. The door leaf is:

• From fiberboard. These are the cheapest doors. They represent a wooden frame to which laminated fiberboard is attached. They are distinguished by low sound insulation, they are afraid of high humidity, and are easily damaged.
• Made of MDF. They cost much more, but the quality characteristics are much higher. They are better in sound insulation, are not afraid of moisture, stronger and more durable.
• Wood. The most expensive doors. They are made from different types of wood - from pine to oak or more exotic species.

Door frames are made of the same materials. The worst choice is fiberboard boxes, they even bend under their own weight, and hanging the door leaf on them is sheer flour. So try to take either MDF or wood. There is one more material: laminated wood. The good thing is that you do not need to process and paint, but the service life depends on the quality of the film.

Dimensions and equipment

Interior doors are produced in standard sizes, it is a pity that the standards differ in different countries. For example, in our country, swing doors are made with a width of 600 - 900 mm with a step of 100 mm. In some EU countries the norms are the same - in Germany, Italy and Spain. Others are standard in France. Here the narrowest doors are 690 mm and further with a step of 100 mm.

Is the difference so important? If you only want to change the door leaf without a box, then it is important - you will have to choose from your segment or completely change it together with the box. Interior doors of the same standard as in our country, the choice is much greater, as in France - several times less.

What width of the door you need depends on where you are going to put them. In terms of standards, the following values ​​are recommended:

• in a living room, width from 60 to 120 cm, height 2 m;
• bathroom - width from 60 cm, height 1.9-2 m;
• in the kitchen, the width of the door leaf is at least 70 cm, the height is 2 m.

If, when replacing the door, it is decided to make the opening larger / smaller, you do not need permission for this, but you must remain within the limits specified for each room.

How do you determine which door width to buy? Measure the door leaf that you have and you will know what you need. If there are no doors, find the narrowest point in the opening, by measuring it, you can find out how wide you need the door block. This is the door leaf + door frame. So the outer dimensions of the door frame must be less than the measured value. For example, if you got 780 mm, look for a block with parameters 700 mm. The wider ones cannot be inserted into this opening.

The most complete set of interior doors - with a frame, accessories and platbands

When choosing a door, pay attention to the complete set. There are three types of assembly:

• Door leaf. Buy the box separately.
• Doors with a frame. Everything is included, but the box is in the form of separate boards. You will have to file the corners and connect, hang the loops yourself.
• Door block. These are ready-to-install doors - the frame is assembled, the hinges are hung. Only trim the sidewalls to the height, align and secure.

With the same quality of the door leaf, the prices for these kits differ significantly. But the difference in the time you will spend on installation is decent.

Step-by-step installation of interior doors

In general, there are many subtleties. We will try to describe and illustrate the most common moments in a photo or video material.

Step 1: Assembling the door frame

If you did not buy a pre-assembled door unit, the first step is to assemble the door frame. It consists of two long posts located on the sides, and one shorter crossbar at the top - the lintel.

Connection methods

There are at least two options for how to connect these strips to each other:

Regardless of which way you are going to connect the elements of the door frame, the first step is to wash down the racks and lintels on one side. Then they are put in a box on the floor, checking the correctness of the connection. Next, you need to decide on the height of the side parts of the door frame.

Determine the dimensions

When folded, the required length is measured along the inside of the rack. The racks are far from always made the same: the floor is often uneven and this must be taken into account. To do this, take a level and check how flat the floor is. If it is perfectly level, the racks will be the same. If there is a deviation, it must be taken into account: make one of the racks longer. Usually it is a few millimeters, but even this is enough for the doors to warp.

When calculating the height, keep in mind that the racks should be 1-2 cm longer than the door leaf (taking into account the cuts). A gap of 1 cm is made under the door, if they do not intend to put a rug under the door. If there will be a rug / carpet / carpet, it is better to make it larger. Don't be afraid to leave gaps. They are needed for. We draw your attention again: the height is measured along the inside of the door frame - from the bottom edge to the saw cut. Cutting off, try on the racks in the doorway.

Now it is necessary to saw off the lintel along the length and, if necessary, saw down on the other side (if the joint is at 45 °). The length of the lintel should be such that, when folded, the distance between the uprights is greater than the width of the door leaf. The minimum clearance is 7 mm, but it is often made larger. 7-8 mm are distributed as follows: 2 mm for hinges, and 2.5-3 mm for expansion gaps. Any interior doors - MDF, fiberboard, wood - change their dimensions depending on humidity. Clearances are required to accommodate these changes. And 5-6 mm is not always enough, especially in humid rooms. For the bathroom, just leave a little more, otherwise, with high humidity, they may be difficult to open.

So, we decided on the minimum gaps when installing interior doors:

• on hinges - 5-6 mm;
• top, bottom and sides - 3 mm;
• bottom - 1-2 cm.

After you have cut off all the pieces and made the cuts, fold the box down on the floor. If you notice somewhere flaws in the docking, eliminate it with sandpaper fixed to the bar. The more accurate the match, the smaller the gap.

Assembly

Regardless of the material of the box and the method of connection, holes are pre-drilled for fasteners - so that the material does not break. The drill diameter is 1 mm less than the screw diameter.

The box is folded, angles are set at 90 °. Holding the rack and lintel in this position, drill holes with a drill. If there is an assistant, he can hold. If you work alone, temporarily fasten the correctly positioned box with two transverse bars - closer to the top and bottom. This will help you avoid mistakes and make the right connection.

If connected at an angle of 45 °, three holes are made on each side. Two on top - stepping back a centimeter from the edge, and one on the side - in the center. In total, three self-tapping screws are required for each connection. The direction of installation of self-tapping screws is perpendicular to the connection line.

If connected at 90 °, everything is simpler. Drill two holes from above, directing the drill exactly down.

Step 2: Inset stitches

Most often, 2 hinges are installed on the interior doors, but 3 hinges are also possible. They are placed at a distance of 200-250 mm from the edge of the door leaf. If the frame and door leaf are made of wood, choose a location so that there are no knots. First, the hinges are attached to the door leaf. The order of work is as follows:

• We apply loops to the selected places, outline the contours. The easiest way to do this is with a finely sharpened pencil, but experts advise - with a knife blade. This makes it more accurate and the gaps remain smaller.
• If they have it, if not, they take a chisel and choose the material for the thickness of the loop. More sampling is not necessary, only for the thickness of the metal.
• A loop is installed in the prepared recess. Its plane should be flush with the surface of the canvas.
• The exposed loop is fixed with self-tapping screws.

Having fastened two hinges, the door leaf is placed in the assembled box, the correct gaps are set: from the side of the hinges - 5-6 mm, 3 mm from the opposite side and from above. Having set these gaps, the canvas is fixed with wedges. Exposed exactly in the horizontal and vertical plane (shims can be used if necessary).

After exposure, the locations of the mating parts of the loops are marked. Sometimes it is more convenient to remove the already installed loop and then reinstall it. A notch is also made according to the markings. Depth - so that the surface of the hinge is flush with the surface of the door frame.

Do-it-yourself door hinge is described in detail in the video.

Step 3: Install the door frame

The assembled box must be correctly inserted into the opening. This is a very responsible task. Before installing the interior door, knock down everything that can fall off in the opening. If the wall is too loose, the surface is treated with deep penetration primers with an astringent effect. If there are too large holes, they are covered with plaster, very large protrusions are constrained. It is easier to insert an interior door into the prepared opening. If this is your first time doing this yourself, make it easier for yourself.

A box without a door leaf is exposed. It is oriented strictly vertically. The verticality is checked not only by the level, but also by the plumb line. The level often gives an error, therefore it is more reliable to check with a plumb line.

So that during installation the box does not warp, still install temporary spacers on the floor, slopes in the corners which give a high degree of rigidity. To open the doors, they are inserted in the same plane with the wall. Only in this way will it open completely. If the wall is uneven, place the box not along the wall, but vertically. Otherwise, there will be problems opening or closing the door.

How to insert an interior door with your own hands - in the same plane with the wall

Once the position is selected, you can fix. This is done using mounting wedges - triangular wooden or plastic bars. First, the wedges are placed on both sides of the lintel - crossbars, then above the posts. Thus, the position of the box relative to the doorway is selected and fixed. Next, the verticality of the racks is checked again. They are checked in two planes - so that they are not tilted forward or backward.

Then the wedges are installed at the bottom, then after about 50-60 cm, checking that the racks are exactly level. Additionally, the transverse bar is wedged in the middle. They check if the elements of the box are not bent somewhere, correct if necessary. You can start mounting.

Step 4: attaching the box to the doorway

There are also two ways of fastening: right through to the wall and mounting plates. If the wall allows and you are not intimidated by the caps of the fasteners in the box, you can attach it through and through. It is reliable.

To install interior doors, it is enough to screw two self-tapping screws into the cutouts for the hinges and, on the other hand, under the plate of the counterpart of the lock. Additional holes are drilled in the cut-out recesses. They are made so as not to fall into the holes for fastening the hinges or the counterpart. Make sure that the head of the screws is recessed and does not interfere with the installation of the hinges and overlays.

Installation of interior doors according to this scheme is shown in the video. There are also some interesting nuances about exposing the door frame.

If this amount of fasteners seems unreliable, drill through and cover the holes with decorative washers matched to the tone. Or there is also a special MDF molding with removable strips. The fastener is installed in the prepared groove and then closed with a strap.

The second method is secret, the fasteners are not visible. First, the mounting plates are attached to the back of the box. In principle, it can be used for drywall, but there are also special ones - thicker, although when installing interior doors, drywall will be enough.

Step 5: foaming

After all the gaps have been set and the wedges have been installed, the gaps between the box and the wall are filled with polyurethane foam. For its better polymerization, the wall is moistened with water from a spray bottle. After that, the foam is squeezed out, filling no more than 2/3. Too much foam can cause the box to be blown inward. Therefore, do not overdo it.

Spacers are used to ensure the doors are not warped by foam. But if you do not overdo it with foam, nothing should happen.

Spacers for fixing the box - with this installation of the interior door, the box should be level

After the foam has polymerized (the exact time is indicated on the cylinder), the spacers are removed, the door leaf is hung and the door operation is checked. Next comes the finishing work: and platbands, if necessary - extras.

You know how to install an interior door with your own hands. There is nothing super complicated, but we tried to describe the main nuances. There is a lot of useful information in the video - these are recommendations from practitioners.

Wanting to install an interior door with their own hands, many overestimate their strength. Without the necessary tools and certain skills in working with the material, you can hopelessly ruin an expensive product. If the decision is made, you must first familiarize yourself with the installation rules and scrupulously follow the recommendations of professionals.

Do-it-yourself installation of interior doors: step-by-step instructions

The process of installing doors between rooms with your own hands begins with the implementation of certain actions. Let's describe step by step the stages of the work performed:

1. Remove the old door from its hinges, then tear off the cash. You can use a hammer and a wide chisel or a small hatchet for this. Using a bent crowbar, you should dismantle the old box.
2. Then you need to prepare an opening for the door to be installed. If its dimensions fit, everything remains as it was. If it is necessary to enlarge the opening, a puncher should be used. The width of the opening must exceed the dimensions of the door leaf by 10 cm, and the height by 5 cm.
3. Use a clean, level surface to fit the box. First, the upper horizontal part is fitted. You can calculate its length by adding to the width of the doors twice the thickness of the vertical frame pillars and 6 mm as the required gap to ensure the free movement of the door leaf. Then you need to adjust the height of the uprights. It should be borne in mind that for a door without a threshold, the length should be increased by 10 mm. Another 3 mm must be left in the upper gap.

1. After that, they begin to cut into the canvas and the hinge box. For this, grooves must be hollowed out at a distance of 200 mm from the edges of the canvas. The inset of the loops begins with their attachment to the canvas to mark the boundaries of the grooves. The work must be done with a milling cutter or chisel. It is advisable to varnish the resulting grooves, otherwise the tree will dry out over time. Then it is required to put a loop in the prepared bed and outline the places for fastening the screws. It is best to pre-drill them using a drill bit slightly smaller than the thickness of the screw. After that, you can screw the hinges with screws, while fastening their halves with a ledge to the box, and those with a hole to the door.
2. Now you can finally assemble the box by joining its parts at a 45 ° angle. You can fasten the box with self-tapping screws.
3. Lift the box carefully and begin installing it inside the opening. Carefully check with the level the verticality of the product, the perpendicularity of its components and the horizontalness of the bar from above. The gaps formed in the opening should be eliminated using wooden wedges, and then polyurethane foam.
4. After installing the box, it must be fixed with dowels.

Here are the steps to follow. The video "How to install an interior door with your own hands" will help you finally understand all the details:

Installation of sliding interior doors

There are many different options for sliding doors. They differ in material, appearance, and other characteristics, although the principle of operation and design remain unchanged. Any such system has a canvas, rollers and guides.

Important: Do-it-yourself installation of sliding interior doors is carried out in different ways, it all depends on the purpose for which the sliding door is mounted. It is usually installed to save space, since it frees up the space that is needed to open the swing door.

Schematically, the installation of the structure is divided into the following stages:

1. Installation of guides.
2. Fastening holders and accessories to the door leaf.
3. Installation of doors.
4. Installation of door closers and limiters.
5. Fastening of extensions and platbands.
6. Final adjustment.

A detailed installation of sliding interior doors with your own hands is shown in the video:

Installation of interior doors with extensions

If the thickness of the existing opening exceeds the width of the box, then to add aesthetics, you have to use extensions, fixing them directly to the block. The advantage of such components is the uniformity of all structural elements, quick installation. Before fastening, it is necessary to determine the dimensions of the extensions. To do this, measure the required width of the strip by inserting a box into the opening and measuring the open width of the opening.

Important: Doors can be cut to size with a circular saw.

To fix the add-on, it is necessary to screw the mounting strips on its reverse side and connect them to the box.

It is enough to use three fasteners on each element. Then you should install a box with an extension in the opening and fix it. After that, you need to go through all the cracks with professional foam.

Two ways to install do-it-yourself interior door accessories on video:

Installation of butterfly hinges

Overhead loops, referred to as "Butterflies"- do not need a tie-in, they are easy to install. It is enough just to attach the product to the door end and to the box, screw it with self-tapping screws so that the door is ready for use.

Let's take a closer look at this process:

• We apply a hinge to the door end, keeping a distance of 20 cm from the edge.
• We mark with an awl the points where it is required to make holes for self-tapping screws.
• The inside of the hinge is attached to the door and the outside to the frame.
• We drill according to the hole marks.
• We fasten the hinges.

Installing the lock and handles in the door leaf

To install a lock in an interior door with your own hands, you should follow these procedures:

• Measure 90 cm from the floor, attach the lock case to the obtained point.
• Mark the place where the handles will be attached.
• Drill a through hole in the place where the handles are attached.
• Mark the boundaries of the lock mechanism niche on the door end, then drill a recess under it with a feather drill.
• Check the depth, for which insert the lock into the recess. Then make a small niche with a chisel, into which the fastening strip of the lock mechanism will enter.
• Treat all grooves with varnish.
• Fasten the lock with screws and attach the handles to it.
• Embed the counterpart of the lock mechanism in the same way.

Fasteners for cash machines

Installation work is being completed on the installation of doors between the rooms with fasteners for cash-boxes. This process is straightforward.

In this article, we will figure out step by step how it is carried out correctly.Today, not every person is able to independently install interior and exterior doors, into doorways, or, at least, do it correctly. Contacting specialists will take a lot of money if you need to install, say, 10 doors to your new house or apartment. To save extra money, I advise everyone to read this step-by-step guide. Special attention: we are talking about wooden doors for interior use. Do-it-yourself door installation from scratch consists of 10 steps.

Step 1.

Do-it-yourself door installation.

We start by unpacking the purchased set of interior or front doors, and the door frame from it. This should be done very carefully, since often at this stage the door gets the first injuries. Opening the package with a knife, sometimes the surface of the door itself is touched, and if the above-mentioned door has a varnish or laminated coating, the defect is very noticeable, and it is not easy to eliminate it. Special attention: Initially, I advise you to unpack only the door frame. It is better to unpack the door itself before direct use, so as not to spoil its appearance even before using it.

Step 2.

Do-it-yourself door installation.

Assemble the unpacked door frame. In the unpacked kit, you will find three main components and one additional one. Additional is a connecting wooden strip for temporary fixing.

At the ends of the door frame panels there are plastic inserts hammered into special grooves.

These inserts must be knocked out, but this should be done very carefully so as not to damage the surface of the door frame. To do this, it is best to use a wooden peg, rather than hitting the insert with a hammer right away.

Step 3.

Do-it-yourself door installation.

Parts are assembled in a U-shaped groove in a groove. It is important at this stage to maintain the correct geometry. Irregularities are not allowed here! The connected elements are fastened with the previously knocked out plastic inserts described in step 2. They are hammered into the holes formed when the door frame is connected. This work is done with an ordinary hammer. Finish off the bar using a peg, as before, so as not to spoil the wooden surface.

If, when driving the insert, the elements of the box have shifted, they can be leveled with the same hammer. You should hit the body on the wooden plank attached to it.

The end result at this stage should be the same as in the photo.

Step 4.

Do-it-yourself door installation.

At all subsequent stages, we need a special power tool, which includes:

• screwdriver;
• drill;
• milling head.

After completing all the actions described in step 3 and, thereby connecting the top of the door frame, we can go to its bottom. The same additional element of the kit is used for this - a fixing wooden plank.

Having measured the width along the bottom of the box, we fix it with a wooden plank. We fasten it with screws in places that will later be sealed with mortar into the wall. In this case, the screw should not start to be screwed in from the very edge of the plank, since at the point of attachment you will only split the plank. We screw in at an angle approximately as shown in the photo.

See the final result of step 4 in the photo below.

Step 5.

Do-it-yourself door installation.

At this point, you should measure the height of your doorway. It is necessary to take into account the height of the threshold or its absence. Having decided on the desired parameters, we cut off the bottom of the door frame. This is best done using a miter saw.

Step 6.

Insert the door into the door frame prepared for installation for fitting. I remind you that even at this stage, it is not necessary to completely unpack it. It is enough to cut only the holes for the handles and the lock. How they are installed will be discussed later. If all is well, you can safely proceed with the installation of the door frame in the doorway.

Step 7.

At this stage, we get down to immediate. To do this, we need to set the door frame perfectly straight in the opening. This can be done using a level. After that, we fasten the box to the opening. In our particular case, you can use ordinary wood screws, since wooden blocks are laid in the opening of plasterboard sheets. In other cases, you will have to use a dowel-nail, etc. materials.

Fasteners are screwed in at an angle in those places that will later be hidden under the foam and trim. Do not under any circumstances fasten your frame through the front side. This will greatly spoil the appearance, and can also cause the door to malfunction, for example, it is difficult to open or close.

The gap between the door frame and the opening is foamed with polyurethane foam. After that, in this place, using dry building finishing mixtures, a slope is constructed.

Step 8.

While the polyurethane foam, which we used to seal the gap between the frame and the wall in the opening, solidifies, we will proceed to the preparation of the door leaf. We will embed a lock into it, install handles and hinges.

Using a measuring tool, mark the location of the door lock at the end of the door. Based on the shape of the castle, we outline the contour along which it will be necessary to remove the layer of wood so that the front of our castle is flush with the surface of the door leaf. A milling saw should be used to cut wood.

In the photo below, there is a lock used in our particular case, as well as a cut off layer of wood necessary for the correct installation of the above-named lock.

A deeper hole is required for the working part of the lock, which is best done with a drill with a drill of a suitable diameter.

The work on installing the lock does not end there, since it is necessary to make more holes for the handles on both sides of the door to be installed. This is done with the same drill and drill. As I said, it is important in both cases to take into account the required drill diameter.

At the same stage, we install the door handles. In the hole in the canvas, in which the lock is installed, we lay the core. We put handles on it on both sides. Next, we clamp all the necessary fasteners and clamps. In the described case, three screws and a bolt, which are screwed in with a hexagon, act as clamps and fasteners.

The final step in this step is to install the hinges. In the designated places, by analogy with the installation of the lock, hinges are attached at the ends. As with the lock, the milling saw removes the layer of wood so that the attached surface of the hinge is flush with the door leaf.

Step 9.

Having prepared the door, we return to the box. As well as on the door itself, on the box we mark the places for screwing the hinges with a measuring tool. Just as in previous similar cases, you must use a milling saw.

Next, we outline the place where it should go into the body of the door frame. At this point, using a chisel, we make a hole of the required depth and attach the plug, which comes complete with hinges, a lock and handles.

Step 10.

We hang the door leaf on the hinges screwed to the door frame and, admiring the result, we can deservedly praise ourselves.
The end result is shown in the photo below.

It is better to unpack the door itself just before starting operation.

Generalization: In each of the stages where wood was sawn, drilled or cut, its bare areas must be covered with a plain paint. This will improve the appearance and also preserve and protect the wood surface. Do-it-yourself door installation is real. It also adds to your experience in the field of repair.

I hope this article helped you gain the necessary knowledge and the necessary level of confidence to start installing doors yourself with your own hands. Good luck in all your endeavors.

DIY step-by-step video for installing doors

Technological progress has replaced the once cumbersome entrance flaps that our ancestors used with comfortable, practical doors. The need to constantly move stones and other heavy objects back and forth many times during the day in order to block the opening, to protect it from bad weather, disappeared with the invention of awnings.

Modern doors tend to be staged for decades. How to assemble and install them correctly is an important question after all the parts are bought and laid out on the floor!

The order of work for a home master

The door is not a simple plank blocking the entry hole. It is also not an overly complex construction. Nevertheless, after assembly and installation, it must meet a number of requirements:

• To open - to close without significant effort, creak and grinding;
• Do not fall apart when slamming after a nervous breakdown;
• Do not open on its own;
• Not to be so thin, fragile that even a child will pierce it with a pen when he wants to draw on it.

We attach the canvas to the awnings. Let's see what happened. We check the absence of distortions in the gaps. We glue the entire installed structure around the perimeter with construction tape.

We foam in several passes the free cavities between the wall and the box, beforehand in several places (at 4-6 points of the internal gaps of the structure) we place pieces of cardboard so that the door does not jam and it can open freely.

We are waiting for complete drying, we are not doing anything else yet. We do not open, do not check.

We trim the platbands along the contour of the door, hiding not aesthetic seams.

Thus, an interior door is installed with your own hands. Experience gained that can now be used to refine other doorways.

Photo of the process of installing interior doors with your own hands

Renovation in the house will have an unfinished look without installing an interior element such as a door. They protect the living space from external negative factors, contribute to heat and sound insulation, bring coziness and comfort. Ordinary, at first glance, they differ in material, shape, color, design, have many classifications and types. Despite their differences, all doors require certain knowledge and skills to install them. This is a very painstaking and highly accurate work for a team of two people. Despite the complexity of the work, installing doors with your own hands is quite within the power of anyone who skillfully handles the tool. The main thing is to do everything gradually, measuredly, without haste, observing the rules for installing doors.

• Measurements, selection, purchase of doors.
• Preparing the opening for the installation of a new door.
• Installation of hinges and a lock on the door leaf.
• Assembling the door frame.
• Installation of additional elements.
• Fastening the door frame in the doorway.
• The connection of the door leaf with the frame.
• Fixing the structure with polyurethane foam.
• Fastening fittings and platbands.

To complete the work, you will need a certain tool:

• hammer;
• chisels 16 and 20 mm;
• roulette;
• crowbar;
• level;
• screwdriver and screwdriver;
• a hacksaw for wood with fine teeth;
• miter box;
• drill and hammer drill;
• if possible a milling machine, circular.

Door installation materials:

• door leaf and door frame;
• door fittings (handles, hinges, locks);
• polyurethane foam;
• wedges;
• nails, screws and dowels.

Plastered and prepared door slopes

Before installing the door, prepare the installation site. If there is an old door, then we dismantle it. To do this, using a crowbar, avoiding strong and abrupt movements, we first remove the platbands. Carefully lift and remove the old door leaf from the hinges. With the help of the same crowbar, we dismantle the door frame, to facilitate the process, we saw the box in several places with a hacksaw. Quite often, in houses, the door frame was cemented. And to remove it, you have to break the cement with a hammer.

The slopes can be leveled and plastered to facilitate installation of the door. At the end of the preparation, we clean the doorway from construction debris. If the doorway has never been used, then you can immediately start measuring it.

Measurements, selection, purchase

To purchase the desired door, you will need dimensions in height and width, as well as the dimensions of the slopes of the doorway. Since in most cases the doorway has uneven edges, you should take measurements in several places and choose the smallest size.

Putting on the floor covering for the correct installation of the box

Important! When taking measurements, you should take into account the gap between the door frame and the doorway. It should be 10-15 mm. It is recommended to install the doors after laying the floor covering, if there is none yet, then the dimensions should include the height of the floor covering and the gap between the floor and the door. For a more visual measurement, you can put parts of the floor covering in the doorway. This is necessary in order to know the exact level of the floor, the free play of the door depends on it. The gap between the door and the floor is usually 10 mm.

Now that the old doors have been dismantled, the dimensions have been taken, and the slopes have been leveled and plastered, the doors can be ordered. As a rule, the doors have standard dimensions, but if necessary, you can make an individual order based on the dimensions of the doorway.

To choose the right doors, you need to know their types and purpose. For installation in a house, you should pay attention to the entrance, interior and, if necessary, to the kitchen doors.

We also choose according to the opening method. The most popular option is swing doors. Doors are made using approximately the same technology - strapping and internal filling. The power structure or skeleton of the door, where the lock is inserted and the hinges are attached, is sheathed with fiberboard, MDF or other material, and the internal space is filled.

There are several door designs - solid, paneled and smooth.

Smooth doors, they are also panel boards, can be made with an outer layer of MDF and fiberboard, sometimes such doors are sheathed with plastic. They are usually painted, veneered or laminated. The price of such doors varies depending on the materials and the method of cladding. The most practical and affordable are laminated doors. Painted doors can be both cheap and expensive. It all depends on the type of material and the method of painting. The most expensive are doors faced with natural veneer.

Paneled doors They stand out for their open design and the presence of patterns, patterned carvings and stained-glass windows. Such doors can be filled with glass, carved panels, and other materials. They are made from a solid array of valuable wood species or combined materials. The prices for paneled doors depend on the type of materials. The cheapest and most affordable are made from soft wood, as well as from combined materials (MDF, HDF).

Solid wood doors made from valuable wood species. This primarily affects their price and weight, they are very high. The doors are covered with varnishes and various impregnations, thus they are well protected from damage by insects, fungi and mold.

Having selected the necessary doors and received them, we proceed to the step-by-step installation of the doors.

After purchase, we unpack the door leaf, platbands, door frame, accessories, fittings. We carefully check everything for cracks, chips or other damage. Until the lock, hinges or other door hardware is cut in, the doors can be returned to the manufacturer.

Preparation of places for fastening the lock and hinges

Installation of the door leaf on the floor for easy cutting with a cutter

Lock hole

Before assembling the door frame, mark and select with a cutter or chisel the place for attaching the hinges and the lock on the door leaf and upright. To do this, we set the door leaf in a vertical position on the wide side in special supports. In order not to damage the canvas, the inner side of the supports is upholstered with fabric. We attach the lock and outline the place of its installation with a pencil. To make it convenient to use the lock, we install it at a height of 900 mm from the floor. To install the hinges, measure 200 mm from the lower and upper edges of the door. We apply hinges and mark the place for milling. Using a hand cutter or chisel, we select the excess so that the hinges and the lock lie flush. We put them back on and drill holes for self-tapping screws with a drill.

Finally, we apply the vertical post to the door leaf in such a way that a gap of 2-3 mm remains between the horizontal crossbar of the door frame and the door leaf. We mark the place of attachment of the hinges and the place for the lock tongue and select the excess using a milling machine or chisel. We apply hinges and drill holes for self-tapping screws.

Important! Places for the lock and hinges after sampling with a cutter or chisel must be varnished. In this simple way, the tree will be protected from the effects of moisture. It should be remembered that entrance and heavy doors are mounted on three hinges, and for interior doors, two hinges will be enough.

Installing hinges and lock

When the places for the lock and hinges are selected with a cutter, you can start installing them.

With hinges, things are simple. They just need to be screwed to the door leaf.

Embedded lock

Installing a lock, on the other hand, will require some effort. In order for the lock to become correct, it is applied to the side of the door and, like a stencil, holes for handles, shut-off valves and fasteners are marked. Using a cutter or chisel, we select a place for the lock to the desired depth. Then we put it in place and fasten it.

Important! When choosing a lock, you should take into account the width of the door post bar. The depth of the hole for the lock should not exceed 1/3 of its width, otherwise deformation of the door leaf cannot be avoided.

Starting to assemble the door frame, we measure the vertical posts in height and cut them with a miter box. Horizontal beams are made to fit the size of the door leaf.

Since the collection of the box requires a lot of free space, the collection process itself is carried out on the floor. In order not to accidentally damage the door frame on the floor, we put two or three wooden slats under the racks along the entire length of the door leaf.

We apply a horizontal bar to the uprights. The joints can be tapped slightly with a hammer for a better connection, and using a screwdriver we fix the box by screwing the self-tapping screws into the corner joints.

Important! There are doors with a pre-assembled door frame. Installation of these doors is very simple. In this case, the door frame is simply fitted into the doorway and fixed in it.

Fastening of additional parts

If the width of the door turns out to be a few centimeters less than the door slope, add-ons should be installed. You can do without installing them, but then you will have to completely make slopes, and over time, chips and dirt appear on them. Therefore, the installation of extras in such cases is the best way out of the situation.

Planks of the same color as the door, with a thickness of 8 to 12 mm, are used as add-ons. When fixed, they form a small portal, with edges matching the edges of the wall.

Installation of the add-on is carried out as follows. Using a cutter or chisel in the door frame, a quarter of 10x10 mm or 8x8 mm is selected, depending on the thickness of the additional strips. We do this along the entire outer contour of the door frame. We cut the vertical planks of the extension along the height of the box, as well as the horizontal plank of the extension. We install the door frame in place and fix it, then we install the planks of the extensions in the trimmed quarters. We attach the strips themselves to the slope using dowels and self-tapping screws.

Installation of the door frame in the opening

After completing the assembly of the door frame, we proceed to install it in the doorway.

Fixing the door frame with wedges from above

We put the box inside the opening and fix it with wedges, 2-3 wedges for each post and 2 for the crossbar. Align the door frame vertically and horizontally. You can adjust the incline level by lightly hitting the wedges. You can now secure the box. To do this, we drill holes in the rack and wall with a drill or puncher. It remains to put the dowels and screw the box with self-tapping screws.

Important! Wedges are best made of wood of the same density as the door frame.

Hanging the door leaf

After installing the box, we proceed to hanging the door. First of all, we fasten the hinges to the previously prepared places. For this, so-called card (plate) split hinges with a removable rod or a rod embedded in a hinge are usually used. There are also one-piece loops, but they are used less often. In the case of a rod embedded in the hinge, the door leaf can be installed or removed by just gently lifting it to a small height of the rod. If the design of the door frame does not allow the doors to be lifted, one-piece hinges or hinges with a removable rod are used. To install one-piece hinges, you just need to fix them on the frame, and then screw them to the door leaf. To install or remove the door leaf from the hinges with a removable rod, it is necessary to remove the rod from the hinge and then insert it back.

Now that the hinges are attached, you can put the door leaf in place. It is best to do this together, when one person holds the doors in weight, and the second fixes the one-piece hinges with self-tapping screws or guides them into place in the case of collapsible hinges.

Important! When choosing hinges, you should pay attention to which direction the doors will open.

We fill the gap between the doorway and the frame with foam, which increases the heat and sound insulation of the doorway. This material allows you to fill all small cracks and crevices. The foam is easy to use and can be easily applied to any surface, and thanks to its astringent properties, the structure will be stronger.

Before filling the gap between the doorway and the door frame, protect the door frame from foam accidentally falling on it. To protect the box, it is pasted over with foil or masking tape. If, nevertheless, foam gets on the door frame, then fresh foam can be cleaned with any alcohol-based solution or solvent. But the hardened foam can only be removed mechanically, which is fraught with scratches and abrasions.

Polyurethane foam has the property of increasing in size from 50% to 250%, which can lead to deformation of the door frame. To prevent this from happening, spacers are installed between the vertical posts or thick cardboard is laid between the already installed and tightly closed door leaf and the door frame. Before filling with foam, the container with foam should be shaken thoroughly for a minute. For better adhesion of the foam to the surface, the opening and the outer side of the door frame can be slightly moistened with water. The main thing is not to overdo it, otherwise the effect will be exactly the opposite.

For reinsurance against deformation and distortions of the door frame, it is better to apply polyurethane foam in two stages. For the first run, the foam is applied pointwise. After letting the foam harden, the remaining voids can be filled in 1-3 hours. Cut off excess polyurethane foam after it has completely hardened.

Important! In the case when the gap between the opening and the door frame is too narrow, the pipe of the polyurethane foam sprayer can be flattened a little, this will make it more convenient, and most importantly, to fill all the voids with high quality.

If the gap between the doorway and the frame is large, 8-9 cm or more, then we lay the free space with a suitable material (wood, drywall, etc.) and only then fill it with foam.

The vertical gap should be filled with foam starting from the bottom and gradually working upwards. Thus, the foam will create support for itself. In the case of additions, additional spacers should be installed on them to avoid deformation.

Installation of platbands and door fittings

At the final stage of door installation, platbands are installed. First, trim the platband in height, then trim the upper edge of the vertical platbands at an angle of 45 degrees. We make the same 45-degree trim for the horizontal casing at both ends. We use a miter box for these operations. You can fix the platband with small nails or universal assembly glue.

Applying glue to the casing

Installing the platband on the door frame