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DIY survival knife

As already mentioned, now buying a survival knife does not cause big problems, if not for one "but": a good knife can hit your pocket hard, and a bad one can fail at the most inopportune moment. As a rule, inexpensive knives are made in the Middle Kingdom, and we all know the quality of their metal well. If you still want to get hold of a good survival knife for almost nothing, then the only way out is to make a knife with your own hands from available materials. And we will help you with this. It is worth noting that professional knife-makers use special devices and tools for their masterpieces, but we will limit ourselves to the minimum set of tools that can be found in any garage. For work we need:

Electric grinder and / or angle grinder (Bulgarian);
Grinder and / or drill attachment;
Needle file set;
Sandpaper of various grain sizes;

The most important thing in a knife, as everyone knows, is the blade. The steel for the blade of a survival knife must be hard enough to hold the edge well, but not brittle, and be editable in the field. The best option would be alloy tool steel, which has a hardness after hardening of 57-60 HRC. A suitable blank can be purchased at a tool store or in the home improvement market.
For this master class on making a survival knife, we purchased from the construction market a suitable size tool made of steel, grade 95X18, 5 mm thick. Since the workpiece was partially hardened, they let it go, heating it with a gas burner on the brick to about 500 degrees and leaving it to cool on it. After tempering, the metal becomes ductile and easier to work with.
After purchasing a blank, you need to draw a sketch of the future knife. To do this, you can use a graphic editor, but you can simply trace the workpiece with a pencil or make markings right on the blade. We will be using a rider mount and a combined stacking stick, therefore, for reliability, we leave the shank approximately 3/4 of the handle long. The shape, thickness and size of the blade and bolster in our case are determined by the existing scabbard, therefore, for your survival knife, you can choose the shape based on your imagination, limiting it only to the strength characteristics of the selected workpiece and its dimensions.

After the workpiece is marked out, we shape the blade on the emery, form the slopes and cut out the shank. After turning, the blade must be sanded with sandpaper. To do this, we fix it to the shank with a clamp on a wooden block and process it with sandpaper, strictly in one direction, going from large to small, periodically wetting it with water. To grind this blade, we used 3M sandpaper with grit 120, 240, 400, 800, 1200, 1500, 2000 and 2500 in series. Basically, at this stage it is not necessary to grind the blade with an abrasive thinner than 1200.

Now you can proceed to hardening. The required heat treatment modes for each specific steel grade can be found in the table or in reference books. Steel, 9X18, used on our blade, according to the table, is quenched at a temperature of 1050 degrees, followed by cooling in oil. Accordingly, self-hardening of the blade requires oil and a source of high temperature. You can use any mineral oil that you do not mind. In this case, it was the TNK transmission. A kind of forge was used for heating.
Important nuances should be noted that must be taken into account when heating the blade:
- Ensure even heating. To do this, it is best to put the blade on the butt and scoop up the coals on both sides.
- Supply air from the side, and in no case on the blade.
- The blade heating temperature can be determined visually, according to this table, but for better hardening it is necessary to use a pyrometer.

After heating to the required temperature, remove the blade from the forge with any suitable tool and quickly lower it into oil.

After the blade has completely cooled down, take it out, wipe it off and, after letting it rest for several hours, proceed to the next important stage - vacation. After hardening, the blade acquires the necessary hardness, but becomes brittle, and if not tempered, the cutting edge may begin to chip. The tempering mode, as well as the hardening mode, is determined according to tables and reference books for each steel grade. Our 9X18 requires a vacation at a temperature of 150 degrees: that is, it is enough to keep the blade in a preheated oven for the required time, and then let it cool slowly. The heating temperature can be determined by the tarnish color according to this table.
After heat treatment, we grind the blade clean and form the cutting edge. In addition, you can decorate the blade with etching, or apply a galvanic pattern. How to do this - read on. Our blade was pickled in vinegar.

When the blade is completely ready, we wrap it up with masking tape so as not to cut our hands or scratch it, and proceed to the installation of the handle.
Before making the handle of a survival knife, you need to decide on the shape and material. The knife we ​​are assembling is intended for a girl, so we make the handle not thick and as beautiful as possible, based on the materials available. We used:

Copper plates of various thicknesses for making bolster, back plate and spacers;
Roe deer horn;
Multi-colored fiber for spacers (can be replaced with thick craft paper);
Wood for the handle. For the handles of our survival knives, we choose birch burl or suvel. This material is very beautiful, durable, and has a wonderful energy.

In addition, you will need:

So, the material is selected, the blade is ready - we are starting to manufacture.
The first thing you need is a bolster. We use a thick copper plate for it. At the request of the future owner of this survival knife, the bolster and the back are trimmed under mokume (how to do this is described on), here we will tell you how to make a bolster from a simple copper plate. This is not difficult. Draw the alleged bolster on cardboard, cut it out, try it on, trim it, repeat it until you like it. Then we transfer the resulting shape to a copper plate and cut it out with a grinder or cut it with a chisel, grind it on emery. Now you need to make a bore hole. To do this, we mark it according to the template and drill several holes:

After that, we cut down the partitions with a chisel and align the shape and size with the files. We grind. We polish. Bolster is ready.

Now let's make a horn spacer. Saw off a piece of horn of the required size, mark and form a landing hole - drill and select the extra file with a file:

We collect everything on the blade:

And we give an approximate shape on an emery or a grinder, leaving about 0.5 mm for final processing.

In the same way, like a bolster, we make a copper spacer, only we do not grind the planes, but coarse them with coarse sandpaper, or some other tool, so that the surface is rough and sticks together better. We cut all the necessary spacers from fiber or paper. We form a landing hole in the burl bar. There are many ways to do this, but the easiest is to drill several parallel holes and remove the jumpers with the same drill. At the same time, the main thing is to constantly check the fit so that in the end the shank fits into it completely, but tight enough and without backlash. We glue all surfaces ready for finishing with masking tape so as not to smear with glue and not to scratch.

Pour the glue into the bore hole in the mouthpiece, push it onto the shank, removing the leaking glue, remove it, grease the shank with more glue, add a little to the hole, and push it finally, without squeezing it very much. We let the whole structure lie down for 10 - 15 minutes, so that the glue is absorbed into the wood and paper, and we squeeze it with a clamp for a couple of days. Usually the glue is completely cured after 24 hours, but it is better to hold everything under pressure for a while.

When the shape of the handle is removed, we make the back. Cut it out of the copper plate according to the template. We solder the pins from thick copper wire. It is best to solder with high-melting solder PSR or copper-phosphorus. We drill holes in the handle.

Cut out the required number of spacers and put everything together. Do not forget to wrap the handle with masking tape.

Now we glue everything with epoxy and clamp it into a clamp for a day. When the resin hardens, we grind the back, without overheating, on a grinder, or better in the old fashioned way - without a typewriter - with a file, we display the final shape.

We proceed to the final processing. We use sandpaper Р180 - Р240 to remove large scratches and irregularities. Smaller - we smooth the surface and reach the grain size of P600. After processing it, cover the wooden part of the handle with Mahogany water stain, using a brush or swab, and let it dry for several hours.

When it dries, we process it with P1000 sandpaper and again cover it with stain. So we repeat with sandpaper Р1500 - Р 2000 - Р2500. After processing Р2500, we do not cover with stain. The surface becomes even and smooth. We polish the metal parts of the handle with GOI paste, being careful not to stain the wood and horn.

Now you need to saturate the handle with linseed oil in order to bring out the texture of the wood and protect it from moisture. This can be done by immersing the handle in a container with oil for a while, or with a brush, periodically greasing it, soaking it, putting it on polyethylene. It is necessary to soak until the oil ceases to be absorbed. After impregnation, leave the knife for a few days until the oil dries.

After the oil has completely dried, we rub the handle thickly with beeswax ...

Thus, we get a high-quality and beautiful survival knife with minimal material costs. In addition, you can always be confident in a self-made survival knife, since you set all its properties yourself - in the process of manufacturing and selecting materials.

The last step in the DIY process of making a survival knife is sharpening. Let's make a reservation right away: you can sharpen a knife yourself without special devices, but it's better not to rely on special quality. If you do not have tools for sharpening and a set of bars with different grain sizes at hand, you can do this using the same sandpaper. Tear off a strip of about 40x150 mm, place it on a block of wood and sharpen it on it. For a relatively high-quality sharpening, it is advisable to go through the sandpaper P240 - P400 - P600 - P1200 - P200 - P2500.

For a more convenient sharpening procedure, it is recommended to place the stone on a soft and elastic surface, for example, a tree bark is suitable. It is necessary to sharpen only one side of the stone, this will further contribute to the safe and convenient operation of the knife. But, even observing the technology for making a knife for survival in the field, you need to remember that it will not last so long, since over time the stone will become dull, and a new device will need to be made. Considering all of the above, we can conclude that it is quite possible to do survival knives with your own hands and you can do this without having special skills. Making such a device yourself, you can be sure that it is really high quality and made according to all the rules.

DIY survival knife

I met the opinion that the guard interferes in everyday life (although in my opinion this is complete nonsense, you just need to train more in everyday life ...), but its protective function is simply necessary, especially if there is no lanyard, and the hand is frozen or weakened from hunger. The upper part of the guard, by the way, can be made in the form of a ring - with a wide hole (like bayonet knives) so that the spear shaft can be inserted into it.

5) Blade The steel of the blade and the strip in general, since we have a full-tang, should not be too hard. Hardness is fragility and fragility. Naturally, the steel must be stainless.
Butt width 4-5 mm. Yes, there must be a thick, load-bearing blade, the knife must withstand blows to the butt of stones and sticks. Blade length - 18 centimeters (shorter in the picture).

DIY survival knives

When the resin hardens, we grind the back, without overheating, on a grinder, or better in the old fashioned way - without a typewriter - with a file, we display the final shape. We proceed to the final processing. We use sandpaper Р180 - Р240 to remove large scratches and irregularities.

Smaller - we smooth the surface and reach the grain size of P600. After processing it, cover the wooden part of the handle with Mahogany water stain, using a brush or swab, and let it dry for several hours.

When it dries, we process it with P1000 sandpaper and again cover it with stain. So we repeat with sandpaper Р1500 - Р 2000 - Р2500. After processing Р2500, we do not cover with stain.
The surface becomes even and smooth. We polish the metal parts of the handle with GOI paste, being careful not to stain the wood and horn. Now you need to saturate the handle with linseed oil in order to bring out the texture of the wood and protect it from moisture.

Survival knife

Manufacturing companies are well aware that they cannot sell knives in large quantities, for which they need licenses. And for mass sales, they sell various valid models, thus undermining the long noble history of survival.

It is good that in Russia we have a lot of recreational places where you can get involved in survival in a variety of conditions. God grant you good luck in this difficult matter, health, quit smoking, do not drink too much, take care of yourself and nature. Addition How to make a Finnish puuko knife with your own hands Puukko is one of the main types of universal non-folding knives with a thousand-year history. This is a small (short blade, often shorter than the handle length), relatively easy-to-manufacture Finnish knife, the functionality of which is suitable for many tasks related to hunting and farming.

Homemade survival knife with simple tools

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Info

With the right manufacturing technology, a survival knife will turn out to be reliable and durable. Making a knife for survival in the field Even making a knife for survival in the field from improvised means, you can achieve a very good result, the main thing is to perform this procedure correctly.

The first thing to do in order to make a survival knife is to find a suitable shard of stone. A shard of stone for a future knife should be small and fit comfortably in your hand.

If a shard of the required size is not found, you can split a large stone against another stone. The most ideal stones are those with glossy splinters, since they are considered the hardest and most reliable. You can sharpen a stone with a bone, for this it is necessary to turn the sharp edge of the bone in the direction of sharpening with pressing.

DIY homemade knife

Just keep in mind! Knife-making can be classified as cold steel making and punishable by an article of the criminal code! Tired of me constantly sharpening my knives made of Brazilian stainless steel in the cooking process, and I caught fire on New Year's Eve, to arrange a present for myself in the form of a good knife. I climbed into the tyrnets to look for where I could buy one, found a couple of offers, more or less, but still not quite right. Either the shape, then the dimensions did not quite match my wishes. Even the price did not play a special role, in the region of 10 k I could spend, a gift for myself. Yes, and my wife said, you need to, look and order, I don't mind at all. There remained an option to order, with its own sizes and shapes. But at work, two of my colleagues began to master this craft in the same way, although they buy ready-made blades, and there they are already conjuring with handles, and their blades are too small for me at all.

DIY survival knife

Attention

The required heat treatment modes for each specific steel grade can be found in the table or in reference books. Steel, 9X18, used on our blade, according to the table, is quenched at a temperature of 1050 degrees, followed by cooling in oil.

Accordingly, self-hardening of the blade requires oil and a source of high temperature. You can use any mineral oil that you do not mind.

In this case, it was the TNK transmission. A kind of forge was used for heating. Important nuances should be noted that must be taken into account when heating the blade: - It is necessary to ensure uniform heating. To do this, it is best to put the blade on the butt and scoop up the coals on both sides. - Supply air from the side, and in no case to the blade. - The temperature of the blade heating can be determined visually, according to this table, but for better hardening it is necessary to use a pyrometer.

DIY survival knife

And if you also handle it correctly, you get a real DIY survival knife. Choose a suitable shard of stone - it should be small so that it is less processed and more or less comfortable in the hand. A suitable sedge can be obtained by splitting stone on stone with your own hands. Whenever possible, choose stones with a glossy chip - they are the hardest. Now you will need a piece of bone, which should be sharp at one end. Processing consists in strong pressure with a twist in the direction of sharpening. Place the stone on something soft and firm. Thick tree bark works well. Only one side of the cutting edge needs to be sharpened for the scraper. After all, you will wield it like a safety razor. A classic, flat knife, can also be made by cold forging. To do this, you will already need a blank in the form of an iron plate.
Then we will make a knife with a wide blade, in the summer, when it will be possible to forge steel))) We draw either by hand or on a computer, the contours of our future knife and cut out of paper like a pattern. We apply steel to the canvas, and paint over everything that needs to be removed from the canvas with a black marker. We go to the machine and huyarim. Now the cutting side is ready. At this point I have roughly drawn the boundaries of the slopes, and began to draw them out on the sly. With the help of such a not cunning device, I made descents.

This is the most difficult and long-term. Melted 2 buckets of snow))) you need to cool the metal, otherwise we will overheat. After the painful manufacture of descents, we draw the upper boundaries of the knife, that is, butt.

And we already get something that looks like a knife. And with the help of that bar, very rough, we bring the descents and bring the cutting edge to the rough one. Well, I walked a little with a skin, see how it turns out. The next step was to prepare the handle.
And there are two approaches here, which we will discuss below. The first is making a knife with your own hands using the necessary tools, taking into account the choice of materials and processing methods, and the second is making a survival knife with your own hands from improvised means, in the wild. That, you see, is already closer to the real conditions in which any of us may be the 1st WAY TO MAKE A KNIFE FOR SURVIVAL WITH OWN HANDS So, in the first case, to make a survival knife, you need a blank, a file (grinder with a grinding wheel), a hacksaw for metal , drill, riveting material (copper rods for example), blank for the handle and sandpaper. As for the workpiece, you can use an automobile spring or a file as it. Draw the outlines of the future blade with a pencil and carefully drill a series of holes along the entire length. Also drill the handle for the rivets.

DIY survival knifeis a great practice for any survivalist. And there are two approaches here, which we will discuss below. The first is making a knife with your own hands using the necessary tools, taking into account the choice of materials and processing methods, and the second is making a survival knife with your own hands from improvised means, in the wild. That, you see, is already closer to the real conditions in which any of us may find ourselves
WAY 1 TO MAKE A KNIFE FOR SURVIVAL WITH YOUR OWN HANDS
So, in the first case, to make a survival knife, you will need a blank, a file (grinder with a grinding wheel), a hacksaw for metal, a drill, riveting material (copper rods, for example), a blank for a handle and sandpaper. As for the workpiece, you can use an automobile spring or a file as it. Draw the outlines of the future blade with a pencil and carefully drill a series of holes along the entire length. Also drill the handle for the rivets. This will make it easier and faster to cut the desired shape. After that, use a file to process the edges, removing any irregularities. We now have a ready-made form. Mark the cutting edge and begin to grind it with a flat file, securing the workpiece in a vice. Make a fire and while it burns, sand the workpiece with sandpaper. Using long blacksmith tongs (or equivalent) place the knife into the coals. It will take 10-15 minutes for successful hardening. You can check with an ordinary magnet: if the steel is magnetised, the knife is not yet ready. Do not forget about the temperature and do not touch the knife with your own hands. Chill the finished knife in oil. In order to prevent the cutting edge from crumbling, a procedure is used known as tempering. To do this, wipe the knife dry and place it in the oven at a temperature of 350_400 degrees and "bake" for about forty minutes. Let cool naturally and repeat the procedure. To finish, sand the surface for subsequent burnishing to protect your knife from corrosion. It's time to get busy with the handle. Place your knife on the blank of the handle and trace the outline. Saw out the jigsaw and sand. Mark, also through the attachments of the knife, the holes for the rivets and drill the future handle. That's it, now use epoxy and rivets to connect your knife and handle together. He's ready for DIY survival!

2ND WAY TO MAKE A KNIFE FOR SURVIVAL WITH YOUR OWN HANDS
The second method will come to your aid in the absence of suitable materials and tools. In other words, in conditions where you have to survive. If you correctly determine the necessary functions that such a knife should perform, then the result obtained will not be much inferior to real knives. In fact, even a sharp shard of stone can be used to, for example, skin the carcass of an animal. And if you also handle it correctly, you get a real DIY survival knife. Choose a suitable shard of stone - it should be small so that it is less processed and more or less comfortable in the hand. A suitable sedge can be obtained by splitting stone on stone with your own hands. Whenever possible, choose stones with a glossy chip - they are the hardest. Now you will need a piece of bone, which should be sharp at one end. Processing consists in strong pressure with a twist in the direction of sharpening. Place the stone on something soft and firm. Thick tree bark works well. Only one side of the cutting edge needs to be sharpened for the scraper. After all, you will wield it like a safety razor. A classic, flat knife, can also be made by cold forging. To do this, you will already need a blank in the form of an iron plate. If you are lucky enough to find one, then beat off one side with a hammer (its analogue). This compacts the material and creates a hard cutting edge. If you manage to make a semblance of a dynamo machine with sufficient amperage, then the iron workpiece can be processed using electrolysis. Parallel to the edge of the blade, in the plane of the plate, set the wire along the contour and connect the plate to the plus, and the wire to the minus. We put it all in a 25% salt solution and turn it on. Due to the uneven dissolution of the insert, a small cutting edge is formed. With a shortage of materials, the simplest survival knife can be made with your own hands from wood. Using a sharp stone or scraper as described above, or any other hard object.

This article will focus on making a homemade knife. The article dealt with the manufacture of a knife using forging, this time the manufacturing process is much simpler, only metal and woodworking are used. And it can be done using a regular file, however, if you have access to a grinder or grinder, the manufacturing process develops much faster.

Do not look at the fact that the article talks about making a homemade chef's knife, using this technology you can easily make a homemade scout knife, a classic criminal Finn or, say,. Just keep in mind! Knife-making can be classified as cold steel making and punishable by an article of the criminal code!

Tired of me constantly sharpening my knives made of Brazilian stainless steel in the cooking process, and I caught fire on New Year's Eve, to arrange a present for myself in the form of a good knife. I climbed into the tyrnets to look for where I could buy one, found a couple of offers, more or less, but still not quite right. Either the shape, then the dimensions did not quite match my wishes. Even the price did not play a special role, in the region of 10 k I could spend, a gift for myself. Yes, and my wife said, you need to, look and order, I don't mind at all. There remained an option to order, with its own sizes and shapes. But at work, two of my colleagues began to master this craft in the same way, although they buy ready-made blades, and there they are already conjuring with handles, and their blades are too small for me at all. But they advised me to steel one, h12mf, they said look for it, strong, tough. And it started.

Having studied the properties of this steel, having read many articles and reviews, it was decided to look for a knife from it. And when I came across the video ...

so generally an awl in the ass started playing. And then my colleagues bring a piece of such steel. Rolling is true. But she. Having estimated the state of my arsenal of tools, the prices of the original parts, and the curvature of my hands, I decided that I would make myself a knife, the one that I needed.

It was not always possible to take a picture of all the stages, but for the most part, all the processes are displayed. Don't kick too much for the pictures. All in different places, with different lighting and in different weather. The piece was declared as 4mm thick, 40mm wide, but the length was 35cm, somewhere 20-22cm for the blade, and 12-13 for the handle, but the width of the jamb turned out to be only 35mm, but oh well. Then we will make a knife with a wide blade, in the summer, when it will be possible to forge steel))) We draw either by hand or on a computer, the contours of our future knife and cut out of paper like a pattern. We apply steel to the canvas, and paint over everything that needs to be removed from the canvas with a black marker. We go to the machine and huyarim. Now the cutting side is ready. At this point I have roughly drawn the boundaries of the slopes, and began to draw them out on the sly.

With the help of such a not cunning device, I made descents. This is the most difficult and long-term. Melted 2 buckets of snow))) you need to cool the metal, otherwise we will overheat.

After the painful manufacture of descents, we draw the upper boundaries of the knife, that is, butt.

And we already get something that looks like a knife. And with the help of that bar, very rough, we bring the descents and bring the cutting edge to the rough one. Well, I walked a little with a skin, see how it turns out.

The next step was to prepare the handle. I asked the guys for a piece of red bourgeois nut, not for free, of course. Here he has already been sawn into 3 parts. I thought for a long time which pen to make, I wanted a cupronickel tip, but there was no solid piece of cupronickel, only thin casting, but for my purposes it was somehow not very suitable. And I decided to make it purely from wood, but from 3 pieces, like the guard and the handle are wooden. And it's easier to make holes in small pieces. And from the blank of the knife we ​​remove everything unnecessary with a grinder and emery. At the same time, I was still sanding the blade a little. I got it crumpled, I did it in the evenings and nights. I did what I had enough time for.

We mark the pieces of wood, and drill and clean out the holes to put on the shank. I didn't make the halves, I don't like the rivets, the extra bridges, the handle slack. And in cold weather, they will burn the hand with frost.

There is no photo of the device, I will describe it like this, a skin is glued to a flat board on 2-sided tape, and with the help of it we fit our pieces of wood to each other so that there are no gaps between them. So putting on and taking off every time on the shank. and remove these cracks.

After all the dances with a tambourine, we wrap the blade with electrical tape completely so that the glue does not get in, we dilute the epoxy according to the instructions and proceed.

Putting our future handle together with a knife. I tightened with a rope, tightening with the help of improvised means, there is no photo ((But if you find a large clamp, then it will be easier for you.

And in a day, intended for glue hardening, we start processing the handle. Sawed off all unnecessary from the top of the handle with a small margin for further processing. I marked the axis of symmetry and from it the future edges of the handle. And he began to saw off all unnecessary things.

The tree is dense, it is sawed for a long time with a hacksaw for metal, but the main thing is sawing)) and quite evenly.

Having cut off all unnecessary on the sides, we mark out the contours of the future handle. And we saw off everything from the bottom.

we leave a little for further processing, in this case it is better not to finish than to saw through.

Thanks to my work teacher for not drinking, but teaching us, and teaching us to communicate with different files))) We grind everything further with rough and not very files.

We round off the edges of the handle, already with small files, and a coarse sandpaper. It's good that my wife was already asleep and did not see the layer of sawdust))) but I lined everything with newspapers. and then wiped the floor with a wet rag)) cleanliness is the key to success.

We sand both the handle and the blade, leveling all surfaces. Skins at any free time, both at work and at home.

Well, then we take a piece of an old felt boot and make such a device: a bolt, a large washer, a felt circle, a large washer, a nut. You can lock it with one more nut. By the way, taking a circle of skin and putting it on the outside of the felt, you can grind the product)))

After all the polishing, we put goyi paste on the felt disk, and grind the blade, I was too lazy to bring it to the mirror, and I didn't really need this mirror. Yes, and there was no drill at hand, only a screwdriver, but it does not give such high revolutions necessary for better removal.

And after the blade, we take another clean disc, and with it we clean the whole tree from dust and shavings. Correctly, of course, at first it was necessary to bring the blade completely to a shine. And then I had to deal with the pen, but I repeat, I was limited in time by different conditions, and I did everything at once. Having studied a bunch of impregnations, I decided to impregnate in an ancient way, albeit a long one, but reliable. I bought a couple of bottles of artistic flaxseed oil. Since the handle is quite large and long, I had to buy a jar of some nasty thing. We take a small saucepan, gauze or a rag on the bottom, an opened jar on a rag. Pour oil into a jar, water into a saucepan, do not mix it up.

We heat the oil up to 60-70 degrees, no more, epoxy doesn't really like high temperatures, again we wrap the blade a little with electrical tape so as not to stain it, and lower our handle into it. And we observe how small air bubbles stand out from the tree. As the bubbles stop, take out and wipe with a napkin. This procedure took me about an hour, with several heating of the oil.

We put the knife on the windowsill under the sun's rays, we need ultraviolet light to polymerize the oil. But I rubbed it a couple more times with a napkin with oil until the oil stopped absorbing at all. Do not forget to turn it over on the windowsill every day so that the oil polymerizes on all sides. And in the evenings we do a sharpening. I will not describe everything in detail here, there will be enough theories on sharpening knives on one more topic. Yes, and not quite, I have mastered it yet)) I'm still studying.

In the meantime, while the oil is drying, and the blade is sharpening, we will make a marching version of our chef, we will make a scabbard for him. I often go out into nature, and cook there, and I have to take my knives made of Brazilian stainless steel, dodging to wrap them up, and put them neatly in a backpack, so as not to injure my hand if I need to get something, and not to pierce the backpack with a point. In general, the hemorrhoids are still the same. And I decided, since the width of the blade is not ideal for me, then we will make a marching version of it, for the house I will make another one. True, my wife will probably shoot me)) Well, that's another question. Again we turn to our colleagues and take another small piece of wood from them. I decided to do everything from one tree. and handle and scabbard. Again, we figure out on a piece of paper how it will look and what pieces it will consist of. We mark the block and cut it into pieces. By this time, he rented a sander from his brother, which grinds with a sandpaper. And with this miracle device, we bring the joints of the trees according to the plan to a more or less decent condition. That is, to dock exactly. No particularly large gaps. At the next stage, my patience ran out. We drill a hole in each piece for a knife, for a very long time I fiddled with this, and the desire to finish everything as soon as possible was already great, and because of this, in the night I hastily glued these pieces, without making good joints. As a result, a joint came out in one place afterwards. But not critical of course. Yes, and I glued on Friday night, but there was a desire to process the rest completely. And you still have to wait a day. and did not put it off and pasted it on.

Glued with reinforcement, by the way, so that under transverse loads, in the places of gluing, it does not fall apart. Reinforced with thin metal pins. in each joint there are 2 studs. Well, after the glue dries, we go to the garage, take a miracle grinder, and remove all unnecessary with its help. And we return to the felt devices, we take different skins to reduce and grind them to the maximum smoothness, and then we clean them with clean felt. I decided to impregnate the scabbard in a cold way. True, he poured hot inside, there were particles of wax inside, and it was necessary to melt them, and he soaked the outside for a week, applying a small layer every day. In the first impregnation, of course, I applied layers for an hour, until it ceased to be absorbed. Well, to their knife. On the windowsill. Turning over constantly.

After the knife with the scabbard has dried out, and the oil has polymerized, albeit not completely, then more will come. Preparing the composition for finishing. We take beeswax and our linseed oil in proportions of about 2 parts of oil and 1 part of wax, but I might not stand it exactly by eye, but after reading the cooking recipes before this, I realized that there are no exact proportions, you want 1/3 you want 1 / 4, but if you want to treat it with clean wax. There was an opportunity to process it with carnauba wax, but I decided to make it out of ours, beeswax. In a water bath, melt the wax in oil until smooth.

My task was a knife, which can be used to cut and carve the meat, and so that it will keep sharpening after that. I love tomatoes with meat dishes, and cutting them with a blunt knife is bad. I can say that the task is being completed with a bang. Brazilians can't do that. The knife, of course, turned out to be not perfect, there are a couple of jambs on the slopes, a couple of jambs on the scabbard, but all these jambs are mostly aesthetic quibbles, and have no effect on practical use. And I think it's forgivable for the first time)) Well, and one more little remark: budget. a piece of steel - 300 rubles. wood for the handle and scabbard - 500 rubles (of course, a board of such a tree costs 5 to rubles, but it is 2 meters, and I used 15-20 cm from the board in total) skin - about 500 rubles. linseed oil - 200 rubles. 1,500 are followed by acquisitions for the knife, which remained at my disposal for the rest of my life, so it is difficult to consider them as the cost of a knife. files, needle files, and other little things, about 1k ruble, ordinary sharpening bars - 150 rubles, a diamond block of 1.5 points. small jaws 300 rubles, a total of about 4.5 rubles. You could, of course, find a ready-made knife at such a cost, but be left without such nishtyaks as a diamond bar. which then would have to buy anyway. All you can kick.

Author of the text kadiko

Gobly comments:

Nice knife turned out!

Vaso comments:

a small correction - on the windowsill, the oil does not polymerize because glass does not transmit ultraviolet radiation. and the knife is really cool. respect.

VaDim

The knife, despite its usefulness and importance for humans, is a very simple device that has a standard design and, it would seem, is of the same type. But in fact, now there is a very large number of different knives, which differ in functionality, principle of use, appearance, and so on. There are a lot of types of knives now, each of them is used in a different area of ​​human life, but one of the most necessary and universal is a knife for survival.

The survival knife is a non-folding knife that is versatile and has many functions. Very often, such knives have additional accessories, for example, sets of hand tools that are hidden in the knife handle or special pockets. Such knives are essential for tourist trips, fishing, hunting and so on. The peculiarity of a survival knife is that, even without having at hand anything but a knife, it can be used to perform a lot of different tasks. Despite the complexity of the design, make DIY survival knives it is quite possible that this will help save money on the purchase of a fixture and achieve a really good quality product.

To some extent, we can conclude that survival knives are a device that combines a combat knife and additional tools. In addition to a set of hand tools, the survival knife may contain a sharpening block, a small blade, a signal mirror, a hook for impromptu fishing, an opener, and so on. As already mentioned, a survival knife is a multifunctional device and can be used for various purposes, in particular:

• for self-defense;
• for cooking and getting food;
• for arranging a field camp;
• to provide medical care;
• for making a fire;
• for sewing clothes and so on.

Fortunately, in order to acquire such a device, you do not need to spend a lot of money on its purchase, since, as already indicated, make DIY survival knife it is quite simple and everyone can cope with this work. The main thing is to make a knife correctly, taking into account all standards and requirements.

Survival knife making methods

Do DIY survival knife now every lover of extreme conditions, as well as a simple connoisseur of functional things, can. Moreover, such a knife can be made both in adapted conditions, with all the necessary materials and tools, and in the field from improvised means. In order to make a knife for survival in adapted conditions, you will need the following items:

• blank for the blade and knife handle;
• file or grinder with a grinding wheel;
• hacksaw for metal;
• metal for rivets, copper rods are suitable;
• sandpaper.

That is, the items necessary for making a knife are quite common and anyone can easily find them. A spring or file is ideal for cutting the blade. Taking the workpiece, you need to draw on it with a pencil the outlines of the future knife blade, and make several holes around the perimeter. As for the handle, it is necessary to drill holes for the rivets before starting to give it a certain shape, as this will simplify the procedure for cutting out the handle. After that, you can give both blanks the desired shape, for this you can use a file. Survival knives video will help you figure out how to properly cut blanks for a future knife.

On the finished workpiece, it is necessary to mark the cutting edge and begin to grind the edges to sharpness using a flat file, in order to do this conveniently and safely, it is recommended to fix the workpiece in a vice. After completing the cutting part, the knife blade must be sanded with sandpaper. Everyone knows that in order for the metal to be strong and reliable, it must be hardened, therefore, the manufactured knife blade must be placed on the coals and wait 10-15 minutes until the metal is heated. It is necessary to check the sufficient level of hardening with a magnet, since the heated metal does not magnetize. After sufficient heat has been achieved, it is necessary to cool the knife with oil. But that's not all, in order to give the knife blade strength and stability, the workpiece must be placed in the oven for 40 minutes, setting the temperature to 300-400 0 C. After that, the workpiece must cool naturally, you can see how this procedure takes place on survival knife video... The procedure for baking the workpiece in the oven must be repeated two times. After double baking and complete cooling, the knife blade must be sanded clean, after which the bluing procedure must be carried out, this will protect the blade from corrosion. The last stage in the manufacture of a survival knife is the groove of the handle, and the connection of the two elements into one integral knife. With the right manufacturing technology, a survival knife will turn out to be reliable and durable.

Making a knife for survival in the field

Even making a knife for survival in the field from improvised means, you can achieve a very good result, the main thing is to perform this procedure correctly. The first thing to do in order to make a survival knife is to find a suitable shard of stone. A shard of stone for a future knife should be small and fit comfortably in your hand. If a shard of the required size is not found, you can split a large stone against another stone. The most ideal stones are those with glossy splinters, since they are considered the hardest and most reliable. You can sharpen a stone with a bone, for this it is necessary to turn the sharp edge of the bone in the direction of sharpening with pressing. For a more convenient sharpening procedure, it is recommended to place the stone on a soft and elastic surface, for example, a tree bark is suitable. It is necessary to sharpen only one side of the stone, this will further contribute to the safe and convenient operation of the knife. But, even observing the technology for making a knife for survival in the field, you need to remember that it will not last so long, since over time the stone will become dull, and a new device will need to be made.

Considering all of the above, we can conclude that DIY survival knives it is quite possible to perform and it can be done without special skills. Making such a device yourself, you can be sure that it is really high quality and made according to all the rules. Moreover, making a knife on your own will help to significantly save your money, since high-quality survival knives now cost quite a lot.

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