Polyvinyl chloride panels are considered a durable and practical material; they are widely used in decorative wall decoration. They are suitable for any premises. A variety of shapes, colors and textures will create a cozy and stylish interior. Installation of PVC panels on the walls is quite simple to carry out, even a novice master can cope with the task.

Panel selection

Among the rich assortment of such panels you can get confused... In order to avoid mistakes when choosing, it is worthwhile to familiarize yourself in advance with all the characteristics and types of finishing material. Low-quality panels fade quickly, they do not have the necessary strength, so you need to buy only certified material.

The advantages of PVC panels include:

• ease of installation;
• increased moisture resistance;
• hygiene;
• fire safety;
• long service life without changing the appearance;
• resistance to the influence of any microorganisms.

And of the minuses, one can single out low impact resistance, therefore, you need to be very careful when transporting and installing plastic wall panels.

The material can be divided into glossy and matte. The drawing technology can be printed or film. The strength will depend both on the thickness of the walls and on how many stiffeners are located inside. It is enough to press your finger on the surface to check the strength: a bent plastic is a clear sign that it will not last long.

You should not take material if:

• there are scratches on the surface;
• coatings differ in tone;
• the dimensions of the panels do not match;
• stiffening ribs are damaged or deformed;
• on the front side there is a fuzzy pattern with blurred edges.

It all starts with preliminary calculations: how much is required finishing material... Panels can usually be fastened horizontally and vertically. With vertical fastening, calculating the amount is simple: you need to measure the perimeter of the room, subtract the width of the openings and divide by the width of one wall panel. A few slats are added to the resulting number so that there is a small margin.

If horizontal installation of PVC panels on walls is supposed, then the area is measured minus windows and doors, then it is divided by the area of ​​one lamella. The stock should be 10%, as the consumption of material increases due to trimming. The height of the walls must be divided by the lathing step (usually 0.5 meters), then multiplied by the perimeter. The resulting number will indicate the length of the rails (calculated in linear meters). When measuring the height of the corners and multiplying them by their number, you get the total footage of the profiles for the corners.

Mounting methods

Lamellas are attached in three ways at the discretion of the master: with self-tapping screws, clamps or with glue. The last option is only suitable in case of smooth walls... The choice of glue "liquid nails" or special for PVC. Due to this, the installation of panels becomes cheaper - you do not have to spend money on the crate. But there are also disadvantages: you can hardly replace a damaged lamella easily.

Fastening with self-tapping screws is considered a convenient and reliable option that does not require a perfectly flat surface. You will need a screwdriver so that the process does not drag on for a long time. The disadvantages of this method include the fact that a wooden frame is best suited for self-tapping screws, therefore, you will have to spend time cutting a bar and processing it.

Kleimers are the best option. They are quickly and conveniently attached to the crate, fixing the lamella on the wall. The lathing is assembled from metal profiles, there is nothing complicated about it. At the same time, damaged panels are very easy to replace without damaging the adjacent ones.

The method of fastening is selected individually: it all depends directly on the condition of the walls and on the individual preferences of the one who plans the renovation. But in any case, the glue is not used on surfaces with strong irregularities, because then it will not be possible to securely fix the panels, it will not be possible to achieve an even and neat appearance. Then all the work will be in vain.

Everything should be at hand when working. Therefore it is necessary know in advance what may be required from materials and tools. Taking this into account, a list of everything necessary is compiled:

• the plastic panels themselves;
• fine-toothed hacksaw;
• square and level;
• tape measure and pencil;
• plastic profile or slats;
• self-tapping screws, dowel-nails or clamps;
• puncher and screwdriver;
• sealant and antiseptic composition;
• ceiling plinth.

It is worth noting that due to the versatility and ease of maintenance, plastic panels are very often installed in the bathroom.

Step-by-step installation instructions

Before sheathing the wall, you need to clean, fill up the existing cracks, level out defects if any, process the work surface antifungal agent... Then, dust will not accumulate under the plastic, mold will develop, which negatively affects the state of the microclimate in the room. If the cladding is carried out on the frame, then the surface does not need to be carefully leveled first.

Wall markings

The lathing is attached strictly to the level to avoid distortions. The markings on the walls are needed so as not to measure out each rail separately. The bottom row of the crate is located a couple of centimeters above the floor, so you need to mark the height point on the wall with a pencil, and then draw a horizontal line using the level along the perimeter of the entire room.

The same line will be required under the ceiling or along the edge of the finish (in case the walls do not need to be sheathed along their entire height). Then 50 centimeters upwards are measured from the bottom line, a beacon is placed, and so it continues to the top. Parallel lines are drawn through the lighthouses. After that, the markup can be considered complete.

PVC panels are attached to the battens perpendicularly, so that the vertical frame is sheathed horizontally, and vice versa. For vertical lathing, the marking is done as follows: the first line is drawn from the ceiling in the corner to the floor itself, using a plumb line. Then the second corner is marked and the remaining lines are drawn (a step of 50 centimeters).

Installation of the lathing

It is imperative to prime all slats with an antiseptic if a tree was chosen for the lathing. Drilled along the marking lines dowel holes observing a distance of 50 centimeters, then the slats themselves are applied, aligned horizontally and fixed directly to the wall. If there are irregularities on the wall, then you need to put wooden wedges under the crate. The wiring running along the wall is hidden under the trim. But for this, you also need to make measurements in advance, drill holes and fix the wires with clamps so that they do not protrude beyond the crate.

Fastening lamellas

After that, you can move on to the most important thing. The first lamella must be installed from the entrance in the far corner. It is necessary to take measurements and, if necessary, cut the panel to the desired length using a hacksaw. The panel is inserted into the side molding with one edge, applied to the corner and attached from the back to the crate.

The second lamella must be inserted into the fastening groove of the already installed panel, firmly press the joints, and fix it on the slats of the created frame. Usually, the side edges are slightly coated with silicone before insertion: due to this, a good sealing of the joints is achieved. Subsequent elements are mounted in the same way until all walls are covered with the selected panels.

For sockets and switches, holes are cut in the panels with a sharp knife, then these areas are covered with plastic boxes. The last lamella usually requires cutting in width, so you need to try it on to the wall, mark the cutting line with a pencil and carefully cut off all excess with a hacksaw.

Installation of moldings

In order for the surface after installation to look even and monolithic, without gaps around the perimeter and at the seams, it is required to close special moldings all joints, corners and joints. These moldings are usually made of plastic. Their design allows the edges of the panels to be inserted from both sides, this will give the corners a complete look.

Around the perimeter of the ceiling, it remains to install a decorative molding, along the perimeter of the floor - a plastic plinth. After that, the wall decoration with plastic panels can be considered finished. With careful use, such material can last for a very long time without losing its original attractiveness and without requiring any repair.

Even without the appropriate knowledge, there is nothing difficult in carrying out the installation of decorative panels on your own, you just need to strictly follow the instructions and do everything carefully - there is no need to rush to repair. And caring for them is as easy as shelling pears: it is enough to wipe them with a damp cloth from time to time. Then PVC panels will be able to decorate any room in the apartment. Even in the bathroom or kitchen, they will look stylish, creating a cozy atmosphere.

Savings often become the main factor when choosing finishing materials for renovation. This is what explains the popularity of pvc panels. The manufacturers managed to combine incompatible things at first glance. Such as visual appeal and affordable price. And add to this the ease of installation and we get an almost perfect finishing material.

In this article we will talk about how to fix pvc panels to the wall, and we will tell you about three ways how to do it yourself.

The choice of how to attach pvc panels to the wall depends on many factors. Here is the humidity of the walls and premises and communications, and even the need to save space, which is especially important when it comes to finishing a toilet or bathroom, which are traditionally small in size.

There is no need to start from considerations of economy. The cheapest way, not always the best quality.

Below we will talk in detail about which fastening of pvc panels to the wall is best suited for a particular situation, but for now, let's find out what difficulties we may encounter during the repair process:

• Humidity of walls and bridges of cold. Plastic is not at all afraid of water and can be in constant contact with it, but it has absolutely no steam permeability, which means that over time, moisture accumulating under the finish will begin to grow into fungus or mold.
• Availability of communications. The electrical wiring can still be hidden in the wall or, on the contrary, moved away, but water pipes (see How to groove walls under pipes in several ways) or heating systems are much more difficult, and sometimes even impossible, to hide.

• Saving space... Below we will tell you about fastening pvc panels to the wall through a bar. And this method can significantly reduce the area of ​​\ u200b \ u200bthe room. Before getting started, think about whether you are ready to sacrifice a few cherished centimeters or not.
• Curvature of walls... Often there are so curved walls that it is very difficult to finish on them. Here you will have to either level the surface, or sacrifice centimeters and choose a mount through a bar.

Now that the main difficulties have been identified, inspect your room, in which you are going to make repairs, and carefully read the article to the end, in order to know exactly which fastening of pvc panels to the wall suits you best.

Method 1: Liquid nails

The simplest and cheapest fastening to the wall of pvc panels, but only on condition that you have perfectly flat walls. Liquid nails, this is the unofficial name for a special silicone glue, which dries very quickly and reliably holds not only plastic, but also glass and wood.

Liquid nails are applied to the panel in even strips, after which it is applied to the wall. The glue cure time is only a few minutes, so the entire repair will not take much time.

Despite the fact that the adhesive installation method is the most economical and fastest, it does not always suit, and experts advise using it with caution. The thing is that the panels are in direct contact with the wall, and as we said above, condensation will constantly accumulate on them, which simply has nowhere to evaporate from under the plastic.

Communication can also become a significant obstacle. In the case of a timber mount, they may remain under the finish. Here they will either have to be removed inside the wall, or they have to be pushed aside and let them mute over the surface of the panels, which does not always look beautiful.

Important! fastening a pvc pipe to the wall can also be carried out using liquid nails, but you need to choose a special, heat-resistant glue that does not liquefy when the temperature changes.

The evenness of the walls can also become an obstacle for this method of fastening. The difference should be no more than two centimeters, or the surface of the walls will have to be leveled with plaster, and this is an additional financial cost.

Method 2: Nails, stapler, screws

Each pvc panel has a small tongue under the groove. It is in it that the fastening is made. You can use any convenient fasteners, be it small boot nails or a construction stapler. By the way, working with a stapler is much faster and more convenient.

An essential difficulty is the need to build a frame to which the panels are attached. Of course, if you are the owner of a wooden house and your walls are well protected from condensation, then you can do without it.

The frame is usually made of wooden blocks. It is easier to fix to them in any convenient way, but as an alternative, you can use a drywall profile, but here you will have to work only with self-tapping screws, since neither nails nor staples will simply hold in the metal.

So, the first thing we need is to fix the bars to the wall. This can be done using dowels with plastic sleeves. Simply place the bar horizontally against the wall and drill a hole in the wall through it. Drive in the dowel and repeat the operation in steps of about 30-50 centimeters.

Important! Before you start fixing the block, be sure to treat it with protective impregnations, which will protect the tree from moisture, decay and a bug. The better the wood is impregnated, the longer it will last.

The distance between the beams should also be no more than 50 centimeters, so that there is no deflection on the panels, and they firmly withstand the weight if someone is leaning against the wall.

When the crate is ready, you can proceed to fastening the panels. They usually start from the right corner of the room. The first panel is fastened with a comb to the corner, and the fasteners are driven into the groove. The second side is fixed in the same way. Now we insert the next panel, and fasten it, but this time only in the groove, since from the side of the ridge it is already fixed with us.

Method 3: Kleimers

Cleamers are special staples used to attach any groove-ridge finishing materials. As you can see in the photo, the kleimer has a special fixing tongue and a hole for a self-tapping screw or nail. It is very fast and convenient to work with them. Moreover, it is the only available fixing method in a new home.

Walls built less than a year ago will shrink. It is invisible to the eye, but it can be reflected very strongly on the finish. Kleimers do not fix the panel, as they say, tightly, and provide an opportunity for a slight curvature. As a result, the walls can sink and the panels stay in place.

If you do not quite understand how to attach pvc panels to the wall, then we suggest you watch the video in this article, which clearly shows the whole process. So, we figured out three ways, but in order to make high-quality fastening to the wall of the pvc panel, this knowledge is not enough. There are many nuances and subtleties of the process, which we will tell you about later.

So:

• If you decide to treat the lathing bar with impregnation, pre-cut it to the desired size. This will cover all the parts, even those that appear after cutting.
• Before attaching pvc panels to the wall using liquid nails, make sure the surface is thoroughly free of dust. And most importantly, remove any grease or oil stains.
• When choosing pvc panels in a store, be sure to pay attention to their smell. If the panels smell like chemistry, look for another manufacturer. It will be impossible to get rid of such amber.

• If you use self-tapping screws for fastening, take only those that have a clamping head. They do not tear the plastic and securely fix it to the base.
• Plastic has insignificant thermal expansion, therefore, when installing panels, leave small gaps near the floor and ceiling. To compensate for the deformation, 3 millimeters are enough, which are completely overlapped by a decorative corner.

Using these simple rules, you can easily make repairs in your home, which will delight you for many years.

And finally, I would like to add: in this article we have only superficially described the methods of fastening, but if you need detailed instructions on how to attach a pvc panel to the wall, then it is probably already on our website.

To date, polyvinyl chloride has managed to establish itself as a reliable and high-quality material that deserves to be used in various repair and construction areas. This is confirmed by the use of PVC panels not only for the exterior, but also for the interior decoration of premises, which, as you know, implies a much more stringent selection of suitable material.

In such cases, colossal attention is paid not only to the technical characteristics of the raw materials used, but also to its aesthetic features. From this point of view, plastic panels turn out to be a suitable option for various purposes. Among other things, PVC paneling of the bathroom is gaining popularity.

Plastic lining for wall surface finishing in the bathroom is considered the most optimal solution for a number of reasons. The material has a wide range of possibilities and a long list of advantages.

Disadvantages of plastic lining

PVC paneling tools

In order for the repair of the bathroom to do without unpleasant surprises, you must immediately stock up on the necessary set of suitable tools and accessories, which include:

• moldings;
• lathing;
• self-tapping screws (alternative - glue);
• ruler and level;
• drill;
• screwdriver;
• pencil;
• roulette;
• square;
• hacksaw;
• nails (dowel-nails);
• joint protection sealant.

Step-by-step instructions for finishing with PVC panels

In order to completely change the appearance of the bathroom and make the room comfortable and functional, you need to make quite a lot of efforts, but they will all be rewarded with a long service life of PVC panels and pleasant emotions obtained from being in the room.

Installation of panels using self-tapping screws

Usually, craftsmen are invited to decorate the surface of the walls with plastic clapboard, but the ease of installation makes it possible to try your hand and make repairs yourself.

The first step is to choose the fastening method. There are two main options - glue and self-tapping screws. The disadvantages of the "glue" method are that if it is necessary to "peel" the panels from the walls, it will be extremely difficult to implement the idea, but the installation will be quick and hassle-free.

Self-tapping screws eliminate the difficulty of dismantling, however, installing them will require drilling a large number of holes in the wall. This is reflected in the amount of time spent on repairs. In this case, you need to make a decision based on your own personal considerations.

Stage 1. In the event that the choice has settled on the frame method, you must first take care of creating a special metal structure. In order to make a frame from a metal profile, the first step is to mark the surface of the wall using a level and mark the upper and lower points.

Stage 2. The profiles that belong to the main frame are fixed perpendicular to the plastic panels. Further actions depend on how the PVC panels will be attached. If the elements are arranged vertically, then the next step will be the direct installation of the plastic lining. The horizontal arrangement, on the other hand, requires additional effort, since it is necessary to make jumpers in the metal frame. For this mounting method, among other things, additional profiles will have to be made to secure the inner corner.

The fastening clip snaps into the “groove” part of the profile, pressing the panel with the wide part of the clip.

Stage 3. In some cases, a decision is made to use the so-called combined technology, in which plastic panels are fixed both vertically and horizontally. In this case, the vertical panels must be fastened to the horizontal frame, and the rest of the elements - by means of a lintel. This is especially true for the seam line.

Stage 4. At this stage, you can proceed directly to finishing the wall with purchased panels. First, using a level, we fix the ceiling plinth and the inner corner, and then we measure the desired height of the lining (based on the distance between the upper and lower points), cut off the remains and insert the panel into the inner corner. It is important that the upper part of the part fits into the skirting board.

PVC panels - trim strips (moldings)

Stage 5. We fix the panel to the frame by using self-tapping screws. They are screwed in from the side of the wide mounting shelf.

Stage 6. We prepare a new panel, we fix it by inserting a narrow shelf of the element into the groove of the previous one until there is no joint, fix it by analogy with the previous step.

Step 7. The last panel must be cut in such a way that the size of the part matches the size of the resulting gap. The width of the panel should be about 1 centimeter less than the distance from the last plastic lining to the inner corner. We insert the PVC panel so that it is securely fixed between the finishing element and the previous panel.

Installation by gluing

For gluing PVC panels, liquid nails are most often used. However, this option is relevant only if the wall surface does not differ in numerous defects and irregularities.

Step 1. Prepare the wall before finishing - remove old plaster, paint, wallpaper and other residual materials from the surface.

Step 2. After that we prime the wall with a special adhesive primer.

Step 3. We use the technology described for the frame method, but instead of self-tapping screws, we use liquid nails to fix the elements.

If you carry out the work with due attention, then there should be no problems during operation. Plastic panels are an excellent opportunity to quickly and effectively transform the aesthetic and functional parameters of the bathroom, make it high-tech, comfortable and pleasant. PVC panels are also used for finishing loggias and balconies. The finishing technology of these premises is actually no different from the basic installation algorithm presented above.

Also read about DIY installation of PVC windows.

Video - Decorating the bathroom with PVC panels

Video - All about PVC panels in the bathroom

Interior wall decoration with decorative plastic panels is a good way to ennoble your home with your own hands, from a kitchen with a bathroom to a glazed balcony. For cladding rooms with plastic elements, 2 technologies are used - planting on glue and installation using lathing. For those who plan to get down to business on their own, we propose to consider in detail both methods and choose the best option. But first you need to do ...

Selection of panels for wall and ceiling cladding

Facing walls and ceilings with plastic is a worthy alternative to other finishing materials - plasterboard, fiberboard, liquid wallpaper, tiles, and so on. The fact is that the installation of polyvinyl chloride (PVC) panels is both the first and final stage of interior decoration, while drywall still needs to be finished with porcelain stoneware or wallpaper. If we compare PVC with tiles, then together with the cost of laying work, it will cost much more.

The decorative panel is made of two layers of polyvinyl chloride with an air gap between them, in which special stiffeners are installed. On the one hand, the product is supplied with a groove, on the other, with a ridge for joining with adjacent elements or a guide bar. In appearance, the surfaces of the panels differ into matte and glossy, and according to the method of applying the pattern, they are divided into the following groups:

• plastics that are monochromatic in color (white are most often used);
• with frieze or laminated, the pattern is applied together with the glued polymer film;
• with an ornament applied by photo printing technology, thermal printing and other similar methods.

Panels with an ornament applied by the frieze technology

Note. The pattern on laminated products is made textured, that is, embossed. To make sure of this, it is enough to run your hand over the surface of the plastic.

In order to successfully complete the installation of plastic panels and not encounter problems during the operation of the cladding, consider the following recommendations when choosing:

1. Do not buy products with a textured pattern for rooms where walls and ceilings get dirty quickly - an entrance hall, a kitchen, a bathroom. These siding is harder to remove dirt or grease stains than a smooth surface.
2. For the same reason, you should not use glossy wall panels in the kitchen, toilet and bathroom.
3. Try to pick up products with thick walls that do not bend from pressing with your finger. Also, the strength is influenced by the number of stiffeners located inside each element.
4. Keep in mind that cheap plastics are fragile and deteriorate over the years. This budget option is suitable for covering a balcony or loggia.
5. When purchasing, inspect each lamella for mechanical damage and scratches.

Details on the choice of PVC panels for interior cladding are described in the video:

Calculation of the amount of material

To determine the number of panels and plastic fittings, you need to know the dimensions of walls, ceilings and all openings - window and door. The calculation scheme is as follows: the length of the wall is divided by the width of the lamella and the trimming margin is added to the resulting value (2-3 more elements). It is easier to calculate the material on the ceiling: its long side is divided by the width of the siding. Most of the products offered on the market are of the following dimensions:

• length - up to 3 m;
• width - from 25 to 50 cm;
• the thickness is in the range of 8-10 mm.

Note. Usually vertical wall paneling is practiced inside the house. There are two reasons: increased material consumption and lack of length of elements when mounted in large rooms. Forming a joint in the middle of a wall is not pretty. The exception is small rooms and corridors, where plastic can be attached in both ways.

The length of the guide strips and other fittings is determined by the dimensions of the rooms and windows, taking into account a margin of at least 10%. The purpose of these parts is to form beautiful joints in all corners and around openings. To understand which fittings are installed where, check out the wiring diagram:

If you plan to put PVC panels with fastening on the frame, then the number of its elements is calculated using the following algorithm:

1. Measure the height of the walls and divide it by 40 cm (the step of installing the battens of the battens). Multiply the result by the perimeter of the room and get the total length of all the frame beams.
2. For a subsystem of metal profiles, the length of the corner posts must be added to the previous value.
3. The footage of the slats for framing openings is determined by their perimeter, multiplied by the number of windows and doors.

Advice. When buying materials for lathing, provide a 10-15% margin for trimming and cladding complex walls and ceilings.

By the number of frame elements, you can roughly estimate the amount of fasteners - clamps, screws or nails. Add dowels here to install battens that are screwed to the walls at 50 cm intervals.

Installation of decorative panels on the frame

Fastening the lamellas to the subsystem provides several advantages - the ability to align building structures, replace damaged elements and integrate soundproofing boards between the slats. There are 3 types of frames - wood, metal and on special PVC profiles. The first is the most popular due to the affordable price of wood, but it is much more convenient to work with metal. Plastic profiles are used when it is not necessary to eliminate the curvature of surfaces.

Advice. In a bathroom, where moisture is constantly present, it is better to mount a metal or PVC subsystem, since wood will not last long there.

Installation of a subsystem from wooden beams

Before starting work, the walls do not need to be cleaned, putty or painted; when ready, immediately start assembling the battens in the following order:

1. Mark the surfaces of the walls, indicating the attachment points for the racks and horizontal slats (40-50 cm increments).
2. After verifying the vertical with a building level, place and secure the corner vertical planks.
3. Drill holes at 50 cm intervals and install the horizontal battens. To ensure that their outer surfaces are in the same plane, use shims of different thicknesses.

Reference. Subsystems made of galvanized profiles are best suited for leveling walls using adjustable brackets.

There should be an opening between the ceiling and the plastic for inserting ceiling lamps

Suspended ceiling lathing is assembled in the same way, only you need to make an indent from the ceiling, equal to the height of the lamps, which will be built directly into the plastic. Further installation of PVC panels is carried out in the following order:

1. Attach 2 pieces: the starting guide strip along the floor and the corner profile by screwing them to the battens as shown in the photo.
2. Adjust all the panels to the height of the room by cutting them to size with your own hands.
3. Take the first lamella and insert it inside the starter rail, and then slide it into the groove of the corner profile. Screw the panel ridge to each frame element with self-tapping screws or fix with clamps.
4. Install all wall slats in the same way. When you reach the end, secure the second corner strip.
5. Cut the last panel from the ridge side and insert it into the grooves of the previous element and the corner profile. There is no need to screw it to the subsystem.
6. Complete the cladding by installing the skirting board.

A few words about how to quickly fix plastic without screws. For this job, a large fastening stapler, often used in construction, will do. It is charged with large staples, which successfully replace self-tapping screws.

Note. For horizontal installation, the battens are placed vertically, and the panels are stacked from bottom to top. How to assemble a metal subsystem and sheathe a room with plastic is described step by step in the video:

How to attach plastic panels to glue

This method is used for cladding absolutely flat surfaces. If, during the repair process, specialists have leveled your walls with plaster or behind plasterboard sheets, then the panels can be glued to them directly. There is only one drawback - the impossibility of replacing damaged lamellas.

As an adhesive, a mixture for laying tiles or liquid nails is used. Installation technology looks like this:

1. Cover the plastered surface with an antibacterial primer and prepare the glue according to the instructions on the package.
2. Attach the corner piece and starter piece with dowels.
3. Apply the mixture to a wall area equal to the dimensions of the two panels, as shown in the photo.
4. Insert the first and subsequent lamellas in the same way as in the frame assembly. The difference is that each element must be pressed down to the surface and then the adhesive must be applied.
5. Mount the remaining hardware to hide all joints.

Note. When installing profiles and panels on a plasterboard base, it is allowed to use short self-tapping screws or zinc-coated nails for fastening.

It is rather difficult to implement this technology for ceiling sheathing. You will have to use a quick-drying glue, and it may contain a solvent that will destroy the plastic. Therefore, it is better to mount decorative panels on a grid system. What compositions should be used for gluing plastic elements is described in the video:

Conclusion

It is noteworthy that it is not at all difficult to assemble the cladding from decorative panels when the frame is already mounted. Correct fastening of the lathing is the most difficult stage of work, which takes up most of the time. Gluing plastic also has its own nuances: either the lamella has moved away, then the adhesive mixture has got on the front side and froze, there are many options. So in both cases, you need to work carefully and without haste, then the room will turn out to be beautiful.

Related entries:

PVC panels are a cheap material, commonly used for the decoration of living quarters and utility blocks. At a relatively low cost of such cladding, the decorative qualities of the coating are quite high. These are practical and durable materials, which are also easy to install - even a novice finisher can install the panels with their own hands.

Advantages and disadvantages

Let's dwell on the advantages of plastic panels:

• Hygroscopicity. Plastic does not absorb moisture, it is not subject to decay, mold does not appear in it and fungi do not multiply, which is why the panels are mainly used in rooms with high humidity (in the kitchen / shower room and bathroom).
• Material has a long service life, it is wear-resistant and resistant to small shocks. Of course, if damage is done with a hammer or an ax, the panels will crack, but small mechanical impacts will not leave any marks on the surface.

• PVC panels retain their aesthetic appearance for many years - they do not turn yellow over time and do not fade under the influence of direct sunlight.
• Ease of operation It is also a significant advantage - the panels are unpretentious in maintenance, you can use the simplest detergents for their high-quality cleaning, but nevertheless, you should not use abrasives and strong acid-base compositions.
• Laying the panels does not take much time and does not require special skills and efforts, even a non-professional can handle the work.
• Low price. Moreover, this is the case when a decrease in cost does not entail a deterioration in quality.

• Security. In the production of panels, the most advanced technologies for processing raw materials are used, due to which the product does not emit harmful and toxic substances. Hazardous materials are difficult to find even among counterfeits.
• The coating is easy to repair- for this it is enough to replace one broken panel, and not to remove the entire cover.
• The panels are very aesthetic- manufacturers put on the market products in the widest range, an abundance of colors and textures. Consumers can choose slabs that imitate the texture of wood and stone. Many firms apply photo printing to the panels, and some manufacturers produce non-standard products that differ significantly in their appearance from the usual "official" options.

• Possibility of installation in small spaces- wall panels are great for creating niches in such corners of apartments where working with other materials is difficult.
• PVC plates are installed together with ventilation grilles and sockets, they are not striking and look harmonious in the overall interior concept.
• Many advantages of cladding with PVC panels are associated with the installation of the frame. Due to the formation of an air cushion between the wall and the panels, additional sound insulation is provided, and the space itself can be successfully used for communications or insulation of a dwelling.

There are also disadvantages associated with the use of PVC panels:

• When exposed to fire, the material supports combustion and at the same time releases substances hazardous to human health.
• The panels do not allow air to pass through, completely blocking its circulation and necessary ventilation. That is why the scope of application of the panels is limited - they are not recommended to be installed in bedrooms and children's rooms.
• In the southern regions, insects settle in the voids between the panels and the wall, which are rather difficult to remove.
• When installing the panels, the use of a special tool is required and this is also considered a disadvantage. However, all the necessary equipment can be purchased at any hardware store.

Criterias of choice

The choice of plastic panels is great, in any construction supermarket you can find a wide range of models of any colors and textures. Thanks to modern technologies, such products are created that can add gloss and emphasize the conceptuality of any room.

What you should pay special attention to when choosing panels:

• PVC products are lightweight, but if the purchased panels are too light, this may mean that you have a low-quality fake;
• there should be no coating defects on either side: chips, cracks and scratches indicate the inadequate quality of the product;
• when purchasing panels, you should clarify the release date and marking - it is optimal to purchase those where these values ​​are approximately the same - even within the same model, there may be a significant difference.

PVC panels are produced in the overwhelming majority of cases in Europe and China. Product specifications may vary depending on the manufacturer, however the following are considered optimal characteristics:

• front panel thickness - in the range from 1.5 to 2 mm;
• the number of stiffeners - from 20 to 29;
• lamella weight - from 1.7 to 2 kg per sq. m.

• stiffeners are damaged and bent;
• the line of the drawing is not clearly expressed;
• the color of the panels within one stack differs;
• the surface has cracks and scratches;
• the segments are of different sizes.

It is quite easy to check how strong the material is - you just need to press a little on it: normally the front side bends, and then returns to its previous position. If this does not happen, then the panel is deformed, it contains a large amount of chalk and the service life of such a product will be short.

• the thickness of the plastic should be the same everywhere, any thickening and, conversely, thinner places indicate low quality;
• the thicker the jumper at the cut, the stronger and more durable the structure will be;
• the cells must be perfectly flat, without lumps or dents, therefore all panels should be inspected, even if packed.

And of course, you need to choose the right texture and color. Patterned options are very attractive. In most cases, a pattern is applied to PVC sheet panels. Typically, it is printed on film and then glued to a panel and laminated. Such panels can have a smooth surface or textured, they are very durable, and their price significantly exceeds their counterparts without a pattern.

The most common panel options are wall and ceiling. These modifications are not interchangeable, the sheet of wall panels is not universal, it is not recommended to use it for lining the ceiling, and vice versa, ceiling tiles are not suitable for installation on walls.

There are no strict stiffness requirements for panels for finishing ceilings - they are practically not exposed to physical stress. Their standard sizes are:

• thickness - from 3 to 5 mm;
• width - from 125 to 380 mm;
• length - up to 10 m.

The parameters of the wall plates are different:

• thickness - in the range of 6-10 mm;
• width - from 250 to 300 mm;
• length - less than 6 meters.

Wall panels are often thicker, because when sheathing with wide slabs, the coating visually appears smoother and more intact (since the number of joints is less). At the same time, many finishers prefer a narrow sheet, since it is easier and faster to work with it.

There is a noticeable variation in prices for PVC panels - the cost of the product is influenced by the thickness of the walls, as well as the type of printing and brand.

Preparation and calculation

At the stage of preparing the finishing work, it is very important to correctly measure and make an accurate calculation of the required number of panels and related materials. This is necessary in order to avoid unnecessary costs for the purchase of unnecessary products.

Installation of PVC panels provides for their location vertically and horizontally - it completely depends on individual taste preferences.

If you decide to stay on the vertical arrangement of the plates, then the calculation is carried out as follows: the perimeter of the room is measured, the width of the door and window openings is subtracted from the obtained value, and the difference is divided by the width of the panel. As a result of such calculations, the number of panels required for finishing is obtained. However, you need to add about 10% for the space above and below the openings.

For a horizontal arrangement, the area of ​​the room is calculated, from which the area of ​​the openings is subtracted, and the resulting value is divided by the area of ​​the panel.

Again, 10-15% is added to the received private in case of damage to the coating, that is, in reserve. Keep in mind that when mounting horizontally, you will have to cut the panels, so you can end up with a lot of cuttings.

Let's consider an example of horizontal arrangement of panels. Suppose we need to wall the walls in a 6x8 meter room with a ceiling height of 2.5 m. The room has 4 windows with a size of 1.2x1.8 m and one arch with parameters 2.2x0.9.

For finishing, panels of 250x30 cm were purchased.

The total S of the walls will be:

(6 + 6 + 8 + 8) x2.5 = 70 sq. m.

S window and door openings:

1.8x1.2x4 + 2.2x0.9 = 8.64 + 1.98 = 10.62 sq. m.

S to finish will be equal to:

70 sq. m. -10.62 sq. m. = 59.38 sq. m.

2.5x0.3 = 0.75 sq. m.

Accordingly, for work you need to buy:

59.38 / 0.75 = 79.17 panels.

Having rounded the resulting value upwards, we have 80 pieces, 10-15% should be added here and we will get about 100 panels.

Tools and accessories

It is necessary to prepare for working with PVC panels. As already mentioned, the use of this finishing material involves the use of professional tools, namely:

• perforator- will be needed when forming the frame;
• screwdriver- it is used when fixing panels to bars or metal profiles (a perforator can also cope with this task, but it is quite heavy, so it will not be easy for a finisher with little experience to cope with it);
• jigsaw with small teeth or a circular saw;

• scruff with an angle of 90 and 45 g;
• stapler- used for the installation of timber battens;
• rubber mallet- required to remove jammed plates; if such a procedure is carried out manually, then there is a high probability of breakage of the crate and the panel itself;
• putty knife- it is used to bend the profile when you need to insert the very last panel. It is optimal to use a tool with a length of 80 to 120 cm.

Auxiliary tool:

• tape measure for taking measurements;
• pencil or marker - for making notes on the panels;
• level - to measure deviations from the ideal geometry of the coating;
• square, moldings, clips, edging;
• elements for fasteners (dowels, screws and cleats).

To grout the joints between the panels, use a sealant and a tool for applying it. Many experts recommend adding an antiseptic to prevent possible growth of mold and other pathogens.

Installation methods

Work with plastic panels begins with surface preparation. To do this, by all means remove the old coating, close up all existing cracks, chips and cracks - only then the finish coating will have a perfectly even and smooth appearance, and most importantly, it will become durable. To prevent the appearance of mold and moss, it is recommended to cover the base base with solutions with fungicides Is a strong antiseptic that will protect the house from the appearance of "uninvited guests" for many years.

At this, the preliminary stage of work ends, then the frame is mounted and the panels are directly laid, and for this, the location of the frame racks should be determined.

For ceilings and walls, the markings are carried out in this order:

1. First, a point is fixed at a distance of 2 cm from the floor or wall, and already through it a straight line is drawn along the entire perimeter. It is at this stage that you will need a building level and a paint thread.
2. When marking walls, exactly the same line is drawn under the ceiling.
3. Further, with a step of 30-40 cm, they draw transverse lines - they will become "beacons" for the construction of the frame.

Walls

When decorating walls with PVC panels, first of all, a crate is installed. Most often, wooden slats are used for it, less often - a metal profile (the second can be bent, the first cannot).

Exactly according to the markings, using a perforator, holes are made for fasteners in increments of about 40-50 cm, after which the frame element is mounted to the wall. At this stage, it is necessary to provide for the places for fixing the wires and make sure that they will not protrude beyond the crate.

In order to create an additional layer of sound and heat insulation between the slats, special materials should be laid. They can have a different structure and, accordingly, are also attached in different ways (with dowels or glue). After that, the panels are placed directly on the box.

If desired, you can use the frameless method and glue the slabs directly to the walls - directly to the concrete It is quick and convenient. However, it should be borne in mind that the surface to be treated must have an ideal geometry - any irregularities impair the quality of adhesion and ultimately reduce the service life of the finish.

In the frameless method, liquid nails or special glue for PVC are used. It is very important to use formulations that do not contain solvents. Otherwise, the plastic will gradually deteriorate.

Work with this type of installation is carried out in the following sequence:

• cleaning the old coating, priming and drying;
• preparation of an adhesive solution with the obligatory observance of the instructions and the indicated proportions of the substance;
• depending on the consistency of the solution, a tool for application is selected - it can be a brush or a paint roller or a spatula;

• using glue, the corner piece is fixed to the concrete wall, to which the ordinary element is subsequently attached using the built-in grooves;
• the panels are pressed with effort for 10-15 seconds and allowed to grab;
• by analogy, all the remaining tiles are mounted;
• attach a decorative element;
• seams are treated with grout or sealant, which act as a decorative connector.

Ceiling

It is possible to sheathe the ceiling with plastic panels in the same way as in the case of walls - with and without a frame.

It is required to assemble the frame in rooms with a high level of humidity and in low-heated spaces. Plates are fixed with fasteners and a profile, so the place of fixation is not weakened under the influence of external unfavorable influences.

The frame is nothing more than a crate with a step of 40-60 cm. As a rule, its assembly is carried out from wooden slats, metal profiles or plastic. Panels are screwed to the crate. This repair is time-consuming, but it can be done by a home craftsman, even with little experience.

Frameless fixation is an easier way, it involves preliminary cleaning of the base and further fixing of the plates to a special composition, that is, the plates can be simply glued.

This is a fairly simple and quick way to sheathe the surface, however, it significantly limits interior design solutions in terms of lighting, since it does not allow mounting spotlights and LED strips, as well as carrying out drywall work in order to build multi-level structures.

Window

PVC panels are widely used when installing slopes on windows. This is indeed an excellent solution that allows you to quickly, easily and cheaply make an aesthetic decorative coating. Thanks to a large selection of panels, everyone will be able to choose exactly the modification that can truly transform their windows.

There are several ways to trim slopes.

With the help of a metal profile

With this method, profiles are installed, which become a frame for mounting panels.

The order of work with this method is as follows:

• along the edge of the window frame, a starting bar is installed using self-tapping screws;
• slats are mounted on the opposite edge of the window, it creates the completeness of the contour.

The prepared panel is cut into the desired size, then inserted into the profile, and attached to the rail from the other edge. The panels must be docked with each other. An F-profile is used as a casing. The advantage of this method is its high speed and ease of installation. However, this technology requires additional laying of voids that may form during the work.

Fixing with glue

Everything is simple here - the panels need to be glued to the slopes using polyurethane foam or glue.

The procedure is as follows:

• first, you should prepare the window well, remove excess foam, putty and level the surface;
• panels are cut in accordance with the parameters of the slopes;
• each part is carefully coated with glue, then the fragment is pressed to the surface for a few seconds and torn off - the final fixation is carried out after a couple of minutes;
• at the final stage, the seams are treated with a sealant and closed with corners of a suitable color.