Until recently, it was believed that self-leveling floors are the lot of exclusively industrial premises, and only specialists can make such floors. But modern technologies have made it possible to use self-leveling floors in residential premises, making them available for self-assembly.

Self-leveling floors have a long history - the first such floors appeared in the late 1980s in the USA. Initially, these were exclusively industrial floors, and were made on the basis of gypsum and cement. Over time, they began to be made on epoxy and polyurethane bases, which significantly expanded their field of application. If we list the main properties of self-leveling floors, then it immediately becomes clear that they are ideal for any premises with high requirements for performance and aesthetic appearance of floor coverings:

• high strength;
• resistance to aggressive environments - gasoline, solvents, alkalis and acids;
• hydrophobicity;
• abrasion resistance - dust does not form on the surface during operation;
• incombustibility;
• antistatic;
• antibacterial - no foci of pathogenic bacteria are formed on the surface;
• high decorative properties.

According to the material used, self-leveling floors are divided into:

• cement-acrylic - based on cement mixtures. Most affordable. Most often they are used as a leveling base before laying other floor coverings or in rooms that do not impose high requirements on the appearance of the floor;
• polyurethane floors - a polyurethane base with the addition of a coloring pigment. Strong and elastic at the same time, therefore they are used in rooms with high dynamic and vibration loads. Absolutely dust-free. There are 2- and 1-component. They have the ability to tint and use decorative elements - chips (flat pieces of paint), flocks (thin plates of a certain shape: stars, scales, etc.), sparkles (glitter), which gives a unique look to the finished floors;
• epoxy floors - based on epoxy resins. They have a very high strength. They are less susceptible to aggressive media and withstand higher static loads than polyurethane. As well as polyurethane, they are easy to decorate;
• methyl methacrylate - based on methyl methacrylate resins. The most expensive, both in terms of material and cost of work. They are similar to epoxy, but, unlike them, they can be applied at low temperatures and have the shortest curing time.

The first and most important stage is the preparation of the foundation.

Preparation of the base

Self-leveling floors are very demanding on the quality of the base. It is best to apply self-leveling floors on a concrete screed. Allowed to be applied to wood, metal or old tiles, the main thing is that these bases meet the following requirements:

• should be very even - irregularities of no more than 2 mm by 2 m are allowed;
• must be free from oil and grease traces;
• must be dry - humidity not more than 4-5%.

Thus, the work on the preparation of the foundation is divided into the following stages:

1. Moisture check - if the surface to be prepared belongs to the lower floor, then you need to make sure that there is waterproofing, and if it is not there, make insulation from groundwater. You can check the residual moisture in a simple way - cover the base area with plastic wrap, glue its perimeter with masking tape and leave for a day. If the next day condensation has formed under the film or the surface of the concrete screed has darkened, then self-leveling floors cannot be applied.
2. Leveling - the surface is milled and sanded. Traces of absorbed oil are cut out. The resulting shells are sealed with concrete. After drying, the embedment sites are also leveled. If the specified work, for some reason, is impossible to carry out, or they do not give the desired effect, then it is necessary to make a new concrete screed.
3. Dedusting - the base is thoroughly vacuumed with an industrial vacuum cleaner.
4. Priming - after leveling and drying the base, the floor surface must be primed. At the beginning, cracks and expansion joints are freed from spalling particles. For priming, you can use any deep penetrating concrete primer, such as concrete contact or one-component varnish. For even application on the surface, it is better to use a roller, in the corners - a brush.
5. Puttying of cracks and chips - done after the first priming. Irregularities are putty, glued with fiberglass and sprinkled with quartz sand. Dusting will help to further level the base. Puttying is best done with putties recommended by the manufacturers of self-leveling floors.
6. Re-priming. Produced after filling. Upon completion, the surface is also sprinkled with quartz sand. If there was no need to putty, then the second layer of primer is applied after the first one has dried. The surface after priming should be flat and rough.
7. Repeated dedusting - removes the sand remaining after dusting.

You need to know that bases made of high-strength concrete grades or those with a hardened top layer are not very suitable for applying polymer coatings, since they have poor adhesion to them. In this case, you will have to make a new screed or use another type of self-leveling floors, for example, epoxy floors.

After preparing the base, proceed to the application of the main layer.

Self-leveling floor application

The self-leveling floor is applied to the prepared substrate approximately 24 hours after priming.

First you need to prepare the following tool:

• The squeegee is a fixed leveling knife with a long handle. Serves for distribution and alignment of the base layer;
• needle roller - serves to remove air bubbles from the liquid base layer distributed over the base;
• soles for self-leveling floor - used to move on liquid material;
• ribbon double-spiral mixer - serves for mixing the main material.

Further, strictly according to the instructions on the packaging, the filling material is prepared. This is best done in a separate room or designated area. Since movement in the pouring zone can only be carried out in clean, dry shoes, it is better that a separate person does the mixing work.

Liquid material is applied at temperatures from +5 to +25 ° С. Too low a temperature will make the material too thick, which will prevent it from spreading, too high will significantly reduce the solidification time of the prepared material.

The mixed liquid material is poured in strips onto the substrate, taking into account the required thickness, then leveled with a squeegee. Remember that 1 liter contains 1,000,000 cubic meters. mm, and in 1 sq. m 1,000,000 sq. mm. Thus, with the required thickness of 10 mm per 1 sq. m we need 10,000,000 cubic meters. mm, i.e. 10 liters of liquid material. Similarly, it is easy to calculate how many liters need to be poured per 1 sq. m of the base to obtain a liquid floor of the required thickness. If the material is not poured onto the entire required surface, then the next batch is docked no later than 40 minutes after the previous one has been applied.

Not earlier than after 10 minutes, but not later than 40 minutes, the surface is carefully rolled with a needle roller. Movement on the surface is carried out in the soles for the self-leveling floor - flat shoes.

Despite the non-shrinkage of self-leveling floors, the seams in them must be provided. Seams are cut in liquid floors in places of expansion joints in concrete or joints of floor slabs, along the perimeter of the room and in the doorway. This is done by applying a foam expansion tape directly to the base before pouring the liquid floor material. If the concrete screed is more than a year old, then the seams are cut through one in relation to the concrete ones. After the filling layer has solidified, the tape is cut with a knife and the seams are sealed with a special sealant for self-leveling floors. Construction silicone sealant can be used.

If it is necessary to decorate the floor, then chips, flocks or glitter are used. They are applied on top of the liquid coating layer. If, when using flocks or sequins, roll the surface with a needle roller, you get a surface with a textured pattern throughout the entire thickness of the coating. After polymerization, the surface is covered from above with 2-3 layers of wear-resistant polyurethane varnish. The varnish on the finished floor can be applied in any convenient way.

You can apply a pattern to the floor for a personalized look. To do this, any image you like is applied to a hard, finished coating. This can be done both with the help of acrylic or polymer paints, and by sticking a picture printed on a dense base. The last step will be to cover the surface with 2-3 layers of varnish. The pattern can be applied to any type of self-leveling floor, both polyurethane and epoxy floors.

Thus, if you properly prepare the surface and avoid mistakes in the process of preparing the mixture and pouring the floors, then the resulting self-leveling floors will serve for more than a decade.

Dubinin Evgeniy, rmnt.ru

Greetings to you, dear readers of our blog.

Today I want to talk about how to make the perfect self-leveling floor with your own hands for subsequent, natural parquet, linoleum, laminated parquet, carpet and other floor coverings. The technology of pouring a smooth and even surface in our step-by-step instructions.

These formulations provide an easy way to achieve an even, horizontal surface throughout your room, no matter what kind of base you have.

Thanks to modern technologies, a huge number of levelers are currently on the market, making it possible to level the surface with almost any base, from concrete screed to wood.

I made a flat subfloor on an existing cement-sand screed painted with ordinary oil paint. The height differences were no more than 1 cm and were located along the perimeter of the rooms and at the joints of the floor slabs.

Step by step instructions for pouring

Step 1. Surface preparation. Cleaning

When preparing the surface before applying the leveling agent, special attention must be paid to the cleanliness of the substrate. The presence of oil and grease stains, traces of paint and other contaminants that prevent adhesion of materials is not allowed.

All weak, flaking and crumbling spots must be removed and the resulting grooves repaired to prevent leaking of the leveling compound.

The surface must be very thoroughly cleaned of dust and dirt, and “just sweeping the room” will not be enough. It is advisable to do wet cleaning or, in extreme cases, vacuum the surface to thoroughly remove dust.

Step 2. How to make a primer

After carrying out cleaning procedures, it is imperative to prime the surface, roughen it, for better adhesion of the leveling mixture to the surface. For this, concrete contact primer or any other recommended by the manufacturer of the leveling mixture is very well suited.

The primer can be applied either with a brush or with a roller over very large areas.

Step 3. Preparing the premises

Both during the procedure for pouring the self-leveling floor, and when it solidifies, it is necessary to ensure a positive temperature in the room. The optimum temperature is from 5 to 25 ˚С. It is forbidden to fill the leveling compound at negative ambient temperatures in the room.

All windows and doors must be hermetically closed in order to avoid the creation of drafts, both when pouring the mixture and when it hardens.

How to make a working mixture, composition

Before preparing the working mixture, it is imperative to read the instructions, it is available on each bag of the dry mixture.

Pour a measured amount of cold water into a large container (for my Volma brand, 20 kg of dry mix was closed with 5.6-6.2 liters of water (0.28-0.31 liters per 1 kg of dry mix)). Pour the dry mixture into a container with water and stir thoroughly using a mixer fixed in an electric drill.

The resulting mixture should not have lumps and clots, be homogeneous, and have a uniform consistency.

The finished mixture can be used within 15-20 minutes. If you are doing pouring work for the first time - do not aim too much, start with half a bag and practice a little in distributing the mixture over the floor.

It should be borne in mind that when mixing a dry floor with hot water, the time for using the ready-made mixture can be reduced due to the faster setting of the components.

The use of more water than recommended by the manufacturer of the mixture is unacceptable. As a result of this, a ready-made, poured floor can lose very much in strength characteristics.

Applying a leveling solution to the floor

For application, we need the following tools: a spatula for better distribution of the mixture and a needle roller with a long handle, when rolling, air bubbles are removed from the bulk leveling mixture and which contributes to an even distribution of the solution over the surface.

Starting from the farthest corner of the room, pour the prepared mixture in a narrow strip.

Using a notched or ordinary trowel, distribute the leveling layer evenly over the floor surface.

The grout should fill in any unevenness in the floor and form a smooth surface.

Using a needle roller with a long handle, carefully remove air bubbles and finally level the layer.

Rolling a roller over the surface, the mixture spreads evenly and forms an ideal horizontal glossy surface. It is advisable to roll along the wall, or, at least, when approaching the wall, significantly reduce the rolling speed. Otherwise, spray from the roller needles will stain the wall.

After distributing the first narrow strip, pour the second parallel strip and repeat the procedure for distributing the mixture.

When decorating a home after leveling the floor, everyone wants to have a perfect plane with a beautiful shine or pattern. Every year, new ways of decorating residential premises are developed and introduced, including a self-leveling floor, which at first could only be done by professionals.

Hardening self-leveling surfaces are gradually replacing some traditional materials. Aesthetics, convenience, reliability and absence of seams are the main characteristics inherent in bulk polymer.

This technology is easy to master if you heed the advice of experts.

What is important to know about self-leveling floors

Not everyone has seen an aesthetic self-leveling floor with a 3D pattern, but many have stared at such a surface in supermarkets and salons. If you want to have such beauty, they most often turn to specialized firms.

But a simple self-leveling polyurethane self-leveling floor is also available to those who like to make repairs with their own hands.

Floors for a seamless topcoat must be properly prepared. It can be poured onto any hard, even surface:

• ceramic tiles;
• cement screed;
• fractional fillers (colored stones);
• concrete slabs after leveling;
• underfloor heating system in concrete;
• wood floors or slats.

Perfectly flat floors are completely environmentally friendly and safe for health, since they do not emit harmful fumes. After uniform distribution and hardening of the polymer, a wear-resistant and strong base emerges that is not afraid of mechanical damage.

Black lacquered polyurethane looks expensive and luxurious, even if applied to ordinary concrete, as in the photo of a self-leveling floor.

On such a floor you want to sit, lie or dance - it seems warm and comfortable. This is a great solution for many interior styles.

Today, there are many shades available so that a seamless surface enhances any design concept. Monochromatic dark floors with a glossy effect remain the most popular. But specialized firms are mastering new technologies in order to offer customers complex color and mosaic variations.

Experts advise to monitor the thickness of the self-leveling layer. Thin coating - up to 1.5 mm, it can crack or deform under heavy load. A thick layer takes a long time to dry and is expensive; the feeling of lightness is often lost. For old and sagging houses, this finishing option is not suitable.

Polymers are somewhat similar to the properties of "living matter"; while working with them, certain temperature and humidity parameters are required.

When hardening, there should be room temperature, no drafts, moderate air humidity - up to 80%. Then the distribution and "adhesion" will be uniform, and the texture of the coating will acquire the best aesthetic parameters.

About security measures

Work is carried out in goggles, gloves, closed clothing and special footwear, "paint shoes".

The alkaline reaction when stirring the polymer solution can cause a semblance of a burn. In order not to inhale the "chemical" smell of the liquid mixture, before making the self-leveling floor, stock up on a respirator.

After the completion of the process, it is imperative to ventilate the room, but without sudden changes in temperature and large drafts.

Preparing floors for finishing with liquid resin

Whatever the floor surface, it meets the basic requirements:

Note!

• integral (no cracks or defects);
• smooth;
• clean (without fine suspension);
• dry.

Caution: Although self-leveling compounds are capable of "detecting" slight differences in floor level, noticeable bumps and pits are unacceptable.

The base must be verified with a building level before pouring the self-leveling floor.

Wooden floors are not the best base for a polyurethane coating. But for those who are the lucky owners of a mosaic panel on the floor, this will be the best "conservation" of the artistic laying of the parquet.

Such a base is made from rare wood species, it is very expensive. In order not to spoil its original appearance, it is better to entrust the filling to specialists. If you decide to combine self-leveling floors with ordinary wooden parquet, you will have to clean and sand with a special machine.

Before that, the skirting board is removed in order to install a new one, through which some communications can be hidden.

The prepared wooden floor should be vacuumed and degreased with any active detergent.

Note!

It is better to seal cracks and shortened bars along the walls with any mortar, they will be covered with a plinth.

Advice: Wood, even preserved, is a “living material”, therefore it can react to any changes. You should not save on material so that a thin layer of polymer does not crack.

A solid concrete base is better suited for a do-it-yourself self-leveling floor. It is better to entrust a high-quality cement screed to specialists if there is no previous experience. Beginners rarely cope with the task of creating an ideal horizontal line.

It is advisable to leave the completed concrete floor to stand for up to 1 month at room temperature and optimum humidity.

Strength is checked with a sclerometer, the level is horizontal. After that, the floors are sanded, vacuumed and covered with polymer. If necessary, treat additionally with a building self-leveling mixture.

Note!

For ceramic cladding, the same tips work as for wood and concrete floors. The prepared surface should be free of defects and dirt.

Although tile materials are already quite aesthetic, their main drawback is the seams. They need to be additionally putty or covered with a sealant to save on polyurethane. It is for the perfect seamless coating that a polymer "finish" with a mirror surface is used.

Matte tiles can be seamless glossy or mirrored. Before applying the polymer, it is advisable to walk on the floor with a primer - for greater adhesion to prevent bubbles.

What decor to choose for a self-leveling floor?

Any finishing surface has properties that together give a special effect. Self-leveling floors are an ordinary liquid medium that spreads, hardens and, after drying, meets the declared characteristics.

The decor is made in different ways, for example, adding "color" (pigment), quartz sand and other inclusions. Floors with "chips" or colored inclusions are obtained by adding acrylic paint.

Different colored polymers and substrates give patterned floors or original patterns.

The final stage

To prepare a polymer solution and distribute it evenly, you will need:

• buckets, small containers, or other containers for mixing grout;
• a tool with a nozzle for obtaining a solution of the required consistency;
• roller with nozzles;
• squeegee and spatula for spreading the solution (wide, preferably with a long handle;
• polyethylene film;
• solvent (for cleaning the tool after work);
• building level;
• mixtures for filling cracks in the base;
• sclerometer and moisture meter.

To obtain a high-quality coating, it is important to observe the proportion indicated on the manufacturer's packaging. First, the required amount of water is poured into the bucket, the dry mixture is poured into it. The solution is stirred with a drill with blades (on a nozzle) at short intervals - about 10-15 minutes.

When the liquid polymer is ready, check the consistency by the degree of spreading. Polyurethane poured onto horizontally installed glass should spread in a layer of 17-18 mm. Usually, everything works out if the recommendations are followed.

If the proportion is out of proportion, the layer will be thicker or thinner. It can be adjusted by adding water or dry mix.

Recommendations for the distribution of liquid polymer on the floor

It is customary to start all floor facing work from window to door, from right to left - this is not essential, but convenient.

There should be enough time to fill the rooms in one go. If this is done in a few days, then differences in height and influx are inevitable.

The solution is poured over the screed in parallel stripes against the wall and spread with a wide spatula.

Additionally, the solution is rolled with a roller with a needle nozzle in order to avoid sagging of the solidifying polymer. If air bubbles have formed, the defect must be eliminated.

Pouring the next portion, we do the same until the entire area is covered. When the work is completed, the floor can be covered with plastic wrap while ventilating so that dust does not settle during the hardening period.

Thin sheets of finished resin can be sunk into the freshly applied coating to create the original design.

To obtain a varnish gloss, a polyurethane varnish is needed, specially designed to improve aesthetic properties.

You need to work quickly to complete the process within 1 hour until the polyurethane hardens.

After a week, the floor will finally "mature", you can turn on the internal heating with a heating cable and walk on the floor without fear of damage.

Diy self-leveling floor photo

The self-leveling floor is of high quality and aesthetic appearance. Knowing the technology, you can fill it with your own hands, without the involvement of specialists. After reading the article, you will get acquainted with the main nuances.

Classification

The self-leveling floor is a floor screed made from mixtures capable of self-leveling. It has a minimum thickness of 3.5 millimeters.

There are 2 types of bulk mixtures, differing in composition, which are also divided into subspecies:

1 Mineral

Screed based on cement or gypsum, which is used as a base for the main coating: laminate, parquet, linoleum and others.

This coating is divided into 3 types:

• Basic- used for initial alignment. It is able to remove irregularities up to 80 millimeters.
• The average- this layer is laid on the base. Evens out irregularities up to 30 millimeters.
• Finishing- upper layer. He is responsible for the final leveling of the base. A decorative floor covering is laid directly on it.

2 Polymer

This coating has a high degree of wear resistance.

There are 4 types:

• Epoxy- used in rooms where you need to comply with sanitary and hygienic standards. Differs in moisture resistance, also acids and alkali are not afraid of it. Resistance to mechanical damage is average. Suitable for 3D design.
• Epoxy-urethane- this coating has high strength, while remaining elastic.
• Polyurethane- wear-resistant and elastic floor covering, withstands sudden temperature changes. It is weakly resistant to chemical reagents.
• Methyl methacrylate- quickly hardens, in just 2 hours. Differs in good resistance to mechanical and chemical influences. You can work with the mixture at sub-zero temperatures.

The coating is also divided according to its decorative characteristics:

• Monochromatic- ideal for domestic premises. It can be either matte or glossy. The palette is chosen according to personal preference.
• Multicolored- suitable for installation in living rooms. You can combine a different number of shades. Such a floor implies the presence of a basic tone and a pattern on it.
• 3d drawing- a fashionable innovation. On the basis of the volumetric drawing, the illusion of immersion and presence is created. Created using a printed banner or directly applied with paints to the base.

The self-leveling floor has a long service life, it varies from composition, from 20 to 40 years. This is an indisputable advantage over other types of coatings. However, linoleum or laminate flooring is easier to remove and replace.

It has no seams, which guarantees its resistance to water. She will not fall under it. Thus, it is more reliable than floor tiles laid in a bathroom or kitchen.

The coating is also resistant to temperature extremes and fire. With it, you can not be afraid of fire if it is exposed to direct sunlight.

Self-leveling floor composition

Different mixtures have their own composition. Their name speaks of the main component.

There are 4 main types of self-leveling floors:

Cement-based mixtures.

They have high wear resistance, while they have an affordable price and a large selection of manufacturers.

The highest quality composition contains only 3 components: cement, sand and water. Moreover, they should not contain foreign impurities and chemical compounds.

They contain plasticizers for elasticity. Additives and ingredients for moisture retention.

These mixtures are not decorative, they are used as a base leveling and base for flooring.

Plaster-based filling fields.

They don't like high humidity. But in dry rooms, they are quite popular. This solution can be poured in a thick layer.

They differ from the composition of the cement screed only in the main component. This type is not recommended for use in rooms with high humidity: in the kitchen and in the bathroom.

Solutions based on polymers and polyurethane.

Their installation is difficult and requires certain skills. Differs in high decorativeness. Artistic masterpieces are created on their basis.

The composition may contain fillers such as quartz, sand, hardeners. They are added to improve the quality and strength of the coating.

Mixtures containing cement and polymers.

This combination improves the quality of the floor, in contrast to the cement one. This reduces the cost compared to pure polymer solutions.

Tools for the job

Work is carried out in two ways: manual and mechanical.

Consider the equipment for manual pouring:

1. Sintepon roller- serves for applying a primer. The pile should be between 12 and 14 millimeters.
2. Putty knife- used for applying the mixture in hard-to-reach places, for example, under batteries.
3. Raklya- will help to evenly distribute the coating material.
4. Needle roller- removes air bubbles. Its moving part should be in close contact with the surface.
5. Capacity- for mixing the mixture.
6. Mixer or drill with attachment- for efficient mixing of components.
7. Flats- special shoe sole covered with spikes. It will not leave marks on the still wet coating.
8. Respirator- protects the body from caustic vapors that are emitted by self-leveling floor mixes.
9. Gloves- prevent skin and material contact. The choice should be stopped at cotton.
10. Masking tape- glued along the perimeter at the bottom of the wall, protects the wall from adhesion to the material of the self-leveling coating.
11. Film with adhesive tape- protects the freshly applied coating from dust. You need to stick on untreated walls.

The list of tools is given directly for the installation of the self-leveling floor. For preparatory work and rough finishing, other devices will be needed.

Preparing the floor for pouring the coating

You can pour on a concrete or cement screed, on an old floor of wood or tiles.... The preparatory work in these cases will vary. Correctly carried out preparatory work will form the basis of a quality floor. They will provide a long service life.

Screed preparation

An important stage is the rough work on the installation of the screed. This is the foundation of the future floor.

• If the screed is old, you need to check it for weak points and the presence of oil stains. If problem areas are found, they must be dismantled. The restoration is carried out with cement mortar or a special screed mixture.

It is imperative to glue a special tape along the bottom of the wall. It is attached around the entire perimeter of the room.

• This is done so that the material does not stick to the wall. Moreover, it will soften the possible deformation that can be transmitted from the rough screed. Prevents the appearance of cracks, helps to preserve the integrity of the floor covering.

If complete sealing is required, the fly must be cut with a construction knife. Fill the void with sealant.

• Maintain a stable temperature regime. When dry, self-leveling floors do not tolerate drafts and sudden temperature changes.

It should be above 15 degrees. The higher the room temperature, the faster the mixture solidifies. This leads to a decrease in the working time, that is, the pouring must be carried out faster, if you do not have experience, this can negatively affect the quality of the floor.

• It is important to respect the moisture content of the subfloor. It should not exceed 4%. If you lower it, there is no possibility, then the screed is treated with a special waterproofing agent in several layers.
• Next, a layer of primer is applied. It will fill any existing pores to prevent air cushion formation on the base coat.

Preparation of wood surfaces

The self-leveling floor is poured onto a flat, dry base. This condition is spelled out in the normative act of SP 29.13330.2011.

The wooden surface should be inspected for various defects:

• Remains of old paint
• Greasy stains
• Rotting marks
• Moldy spots
• Staggering boards
• Skolov
• Lacquer coatings
• Blacks

There should also be no gaps between the floorboards.... They should not squeak when walking.

The paint can be removed with washes or hand floats. After processing, the surface will be rough, this will provide good adhesion to the waterproofing.

The moisture content of the plank base should not exceed 10%.

All chips and cracks must be repaired.... You can use a putty or a mixture of sawdust with PVA glue for this. Self-leveling flooring experts recommend that you pay as much attention as possible to this process. In case of poor sealing, the needle roller will tear out parts of the material, which will create bumps on the flooring.

If necessary, you need to carry out additional fastening of the floorboards... It is done with self-tapping screws. The minimum distance between them should be from 50 centimeters.

If the boards are heavily covered with damage, then it makes sense to cover them with chipboard or plywood.... Their thickness should be from 14 millimeters and above. To eliminate a possible squeak, chalk chips are poured between the sheets.

Old skirting boards need to be removed. The protruding carnations are sunk into the wood with a hammer.

The next stage of preparation will be the cleaning of construction dust. To do this, you need to vacuum and wipe the coating with a damp cloth. Pour the mixture onto a perfectly clean surface.

Polyethylene can be replaced with a special waterproofing agent.

Waterproofing prevents wood from rotting under the topcoat. Moreover, it will not be able to draw moisture out of the bulk layer. Because without enough liquid, the floor will lose some of its strength.

Masking tape is glued along the perimeter of the room along the bottom of the wall. It prevents the self-leveling floor from sticking to the wall and prevents the coating from cracking.

Tile surface preparation

The basis for the self-leveling floor can be old ceramic tiles. She must undergo preparation before starting work.

Preparatory work includes the following steps:

1. Check the reliability of each tile. All loose units must be removed. You do not need to glue them, the self-leveling mixture will fill the recess
2. The floor needs to be washed well. It should be free of dust and dirt. All grease and oil stains are removed
3. Clean the floor with a degreaser
4. Seams need to be treated with a sealant to strengthen
5. Next, a layer of primer is applied.
6. After complete drying, you can start pouring the floor. It is better to start working in a day, or guided by the recommendations on the drying time, on the package of the mixture

Preparation of the solution

Self-leveling floor is made from dry mixes. It has the ability to harden when exposed to water and air.

A thick or liquid solution is fraught with unpleasant consequences. The first dries quickly, the second spreads. This negatively affects the quality of the coating.

You need to knead in a container, you can use an old bucket. First, water is poured, then the dry component is gradually introduced. The mixture must be thoroughly mixed until a homogeneous consistency. It is better to do this with a drill with a special attachment. For 25 kilograms of dry self-leveling floor, you need about 50 - 60 liters of water.

After the ingredients are mixed, you need to check for ductility:

• Take the lid from, for example, a shampoo jar. The diameter should be about 5 centimeters, 4.5 centimeters high. Remove the bottom from her
• Place it on a flat, smooth surface
• The mixture is poured into the lid
• It will start to spread. Consistency is normal if the diameter is between 16 and 18 centimeters. If the diameter is less, then add water, if more - dry component

You don't need to mix a lot of solution. If it begins to thicken, then you will have to add liquids to it. It is better to mix a new batch after the previous one has finished.

There are instructions on the manufacturer's packaging, be sure to follow them.

The procedure for pouring a self-leveling floor

Pour the solution from the highest point on the surface.... It is distributed over the plane with a roller with teeth. Bubbles that appear on the surface are removed with a needle roller.

In rooms with a large area, the mixture is applied in stripes. They should be about 50 centimeters wide. You need to start work from the wall opposite the front door.

Rolling should be done along the wall. This will reduce the contamination of the bouncing solution droplets. In a situation where this is not possible, when approaching the wall, you need to reduce the rolling intensity of the roller.

The layer thickness should be between 1.5 and 5 millimeters.

After applying the layer, you need to wait until it is completely dry. The time is indicated on the package. On average, the formation of the mixture occurs in 8-10 hours. After that, a second layer is applied. Each of them must be applied in one day. If you make half of the room one day, and the second the next, it is difficult to avoid the drop and overlaps.

12 hours after the floor is poured, the entire surface is varnished. The self-leveling coating will be ready for use in 10 days.

Consumption of a dry self-leveling floor per 1 square meter is about 4 kilograms... This is with a layer thickness of 5 millimeters. Thus, 160 kilograms of dry mix will be needed for a room of 40 square meters.

After completing all the work, the floor can be covered with foil. This will prevent dust from entering during the drying process.

By the way, self-leveling floors are very cold. In residential premises, it is recommended to combine them with the "warm floor" system.

Self-leveling 3D floor

The 3D floor consists of 3 layers:

• Basic coverage
• Volumetric drawing
• Finishing layer

The installation process begins in the same way as for a conventional self-leveling floor. The preparation work is no different.

The base can be either a cement or gypsum screed, or a polymer layer. When choosing, you need to take into account the size of the picture. If you plan to place an image on the floor over the entire area of ​​the room, then you can use a rough base. If only a pattern, ornament or image is applied that occupies a part of the floor covering, then a layer based on polymers will serve as the base coat.

The drawing is applied in 2 ways:

• Printed on a banner and glued
• Drawn with paints on a base coat

When gluing a banner, its size should slightly exceed the area of ​​the room... The surface to which it is applied must be free from defects in the form of bubbles and roughness.

A finishing layer is applied over the image... They use varnish for it. The thickness should not exceed 0.5 mm. You need to apply with a toothed roller, and then go through it with a needle. To remove any air bubbles that have formed.

Possible filling errors

It is easy for a person without experience to make mistakes when pouring a self-leveling coating:

• Failure to comply with the parameters for the moisture content of the base, or ignoring its measurement. This oversight leads to the fact that the solution spreads poorly, the distribution is uneven. After drying, the floor will have low wear resistance. It can flake off from the substrate, especially if it is concrete. Cracks will appear on the surface
• The mixture is prepared by eye, without observing the proportions - it leads to the fact that the polymer coating becomes brittle. During operation, it quickly wears out, crumbles. It is also fraught with the appearance of spots, holes and delamination.
• Ignoring the drying time of each layer will lead to fragility of use. The floor covering will quickly lose its decorative appearance
• Discard some of the recommended tools. Especially refusal to buy a rake will lead to a disastrous result. The mixture is unable to spread itself perfectly evenly. Without the help of a squeegee, bumps and pits will appear on the surface

In order for the self-leveling floor to serve for a long time, you need to adhere to the recommendations of the manufacturer of the mixture for installation, and the rules of operation.

Advice:

• When choosing a mixture, you need to navigate what premises it is intended for. There is a division of solutions for installation in household and industrial premises
• The self-leveling coating needs regular cleaning. In this case, detergents must be selected according to the recommendations. They must be free of fluoride and ammonia.
• If defects are found, restoration should be carried out
• Felt should be placed under the furniture legs. It will help to avoid the formation of dents.
• Do not drag furniture and other heavy objects on the self-leveling floor.

Adhering to the recommendations and tips described above, even a beginner will cope with filling the self-leveling floor with his own hands. Such a coating can make any fantasy come true. It will bring zest to the interior of the room and will be a great addition to the interior.

VIDEO: The easiest way to level the floor! Self-leveling floor in 20 minutes

The easiest way to level your floor! Self-leveling floor in 20 minutes.

PHOTO GALLERY

8.6 Total Score

Conclusion

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Ease of implementation

Material costs

Appearance

Originality

Practicality

• Easy cleaning, it is enough to wipe the floor with a damp cloth. It is not necessary to use detergents
• Beautiful appearance - there are no seams on it
• Resistant to mechanical stress
• Moisture resistant
• Does not deteriorate when exposed to chemicals
• Resistant to fire - such a coating is protection against fire, it is not scary to drop a burning match on it
• Eco-friendly - the floor does not emit toxic elements. It is safe for children
• You can put it on your own, in 1 day

• Cheap cover turns yellow in the sun
• The range of colors is lower than that of other materials
• Preparatory work is highly labor-intensive
• The dismantling process is complex

The goal of self-leveling floors was to reduce the labor and installation time associated with outdated leveling and finishing schemes. With the solution of both problems, an abundant range of compositions perfectly copes, allowing in a short time to create a strong, perfectly flat, monolithic surface, pleasing with tightness and absence of seams. Technological priorities are reasonably added to the list of operational advantages, thanks to which a self-leveling floor with his own hands, with scrupulous observance of the rules, can be filled by a home master who does not have a construction specialty in his track record.

Specific features of self-leveling floors

To the family of self-leveling floors, called by the people self-leveling solutions, we, with some degree of error, attribute:

• and new plastic rovings, using which a rough screed is performed. The thickness of the layer they create varies depending on the formula and the manufacturer's promises from 1 cm to rarely demanded due to the high cost of 30 cm;
• and finishing compounds used for thin layer final leveling. Their thickness is calculated from a couple of mm to 2.5 cm.

Despite the fact that they work mainly in a well-coordinated tandem, they are produced by the same manufacturers, and they have a similar basis, these are different materials, both for their intended purpose and for laying methods. Equalizers, which differ from the old cement-sand mortars in optimized spreading and plasticity, are applied to the floor in the usual way with leveling along the beacons. They do not possess the ability to independently form a flat plane under the influence of the forces of gravity.

In terms of thermal conductivity, progressive and outdated leveling materials differ slightly. Therefore, in order to increase the thermal insulation qualities of the floor, they are stacked over the same heaters. And they are also used as a heat-conducting element in systems "", if the manufacturer has indicated this possibility in the marking.

Note. The "underfloor" water heating system is poured with the leveling agent layer by layer, at least in two steps. The pipes are pre-filled with liquid at room temperature.

Secrets of using finishing mixtures

Thin-coat finishing mixes can be applied over virtually any substrate. It is only necessary to select products in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions regarding compatibility. The priority is still cement and polymer base bases. Among the functions of finishing compositions, alignment proudly appears, but since they are filled mainly with a layer of up to 5 mm, it is advisable to exclude gross flaws in the "relief". Even if the bumps and depressions can be smoothed out with a leveling mass, there is a strong argument in favor of preliminary elimination of defects. Self-leveling floor of different power will harden unevenly, and strength indicators will differ significantly.

If earlier in the colorful range of finishing self-leveling compositions dull gray and cream tones prevailed, now home craftsmen figuring out how to make a self-leveling floor can actively fantasize about the future decor. It can turn out to be a monochromatic color coating with the color set by the manufacturer or covered with an epoxy transparent layer on top.

Why do you need information about the composition?

Regardless of the basic or final purpose, the mixtures include a similar set of components, these are:

• astringents such as good old cement, which gives the floor a gray color, gypsum, which attracts with a pleasant beige palette, or compositions of the above materials, including polymer components;
• placeholders- traditional sand or limestone chips, the fractional size of which in basic leveling agents reaches 1.2 mm, and in leveling compounds on average it is 0.5 mm;
• modifying additives, introduced into the formula of floors to improve spreadability, to increase plasticity, improve an important property - adhesion.

The binding components of foreign mixtures are polymers, due to which the characteristics are improved along with a parallel increase in prices.

In the formulas of dry mixes, dyes are also introduced that determine the color of the future floor or the base background for applying stencils, hand-painted, banner images, etc. To increase the bonds between the hardening components of the self-leveling floor, microfibers are included in a number of self-leveling mixtures. Their chaotic direction firmly connects ingredients in all possible directions, eliminating the possibility of cracking.

The dominant component influencing the choice of a mixture suitable for arranging is its basis. Owners who want to implement a self-leveling flooring device with their own hands need to deal with this issue even before purchasing the material:

• dry formulations with cement as a binding agent are suitable for pouring floors in kitchens, showers, bathrooms, separate bathrooms, i.e. in rooms requiring regular wet hygienic care and in rooms with a characteristic high humidity;
• mixtures with gypsum in the base are applied to the subfloor in "dry" rooms.

For the installation of underfloor heating, a leveling compound with increased elasticity is required, capable of expanding and contracting without the formation of a network of cracks. If you want to complete the finishing at an extremely high pace, you need to pay attention to fast-hardening products. There are also universal dry materials suitable for rough and final leveling, you can buy a mixture with the designation "extra strong" for laying coatings without first strengthening the base. Information on specific properties can be found on the packaging.

You can read about various methods of pouring polyurethane floors and useful design tips in the material on our website:.

Options for the device of self-leveling floors

The scheme for arranging the floor using bulk solutions depends on the planned thickness of the pour, on the degree of destruction and on the material from which the base is made:

• Thin finishing layer up to 0.5 mm, a fresh screed is poured, the surface of which complies with technical regulations. Thin-layer liquid linoleum must adhere firmly to the base. To increase adhesion, the rough base is covered with primer. Often, to improve adhesion, the underlying cement floor is pre-treated with a coarse emery abrasive or a scraper, and then covered with a primer.
• Self-leveling floor, cut off from the base by a separating layer, arrange over a wooden base and over any type of screed with a layer of 1.0-2.0 cm. To form a separating layer between the wooden floor and the fill, lay oiled paper with an overlap. The boundary between the screed and the self-leveling floor is created by treating the surface with a waterproofing impregnation. The poured layer in this case does not adhere to the surface of the rough base. Thanks to the separator, permanent movements of the wood will not cause damage to the floor, and the cement screed will not draw out moisture, creating unwanted cavities and sinks in the body of the fill. By the way, according to this principle, 3D floors with a volumetric effect are arranged, only a banner with a drawing, a sticker or an original image made with acrylic paint serves as a separator.
• Self-leveling floating floors suit in case of subsequent laying of laminate, linoleum, parquet floor dies - i.e. coatings that tend to change in a linear direction with temperature fluctuations and with unstable humidity levels. The reason for preferring a floating floor can also be a thickness of 2.5 cm or more, which does not allow the self-leveling floor to harden without defects. The separating layer is made of polyethylene, rolled waterproofing or parchment laid in strips with an 8-10 cm overlap. It is supposed to lay a divider with 10-15 cm allowances on the walls. The floating layer is cut off from the walls with a damper tape used to ensure the movement of the floor and for sound insulation. The separator and the damper material, rising above the floor plane, are cut off before installing the plinth and the seam is covered with it.

These are only the basic schemes for the device of self-leveling floors, which, if necessary, require revision and modernization, taking into account specific conditions. In real life, there are much more options, but the principles are general.

Rules for pouring self-leveling solutions

It is possible to pour the closed leveling mass onto the floor in rooms with equipped window and door openings. There should be no drafts; you should forget about airing with the help of natural and forced ventilation during the hardening of the floor. The solution without any extraneous coercion needs to lose moisture during the ripening process. The temperature during this period should be stable without indicators below 5 ° C and without takeoffs above 20 ° C. Priority humidity is 60%.

We will assume that the alignment and climb to the planned height have already been completed, i.e. the base layer has already been created or we accept the existing tile, cement or plank floor as it. Next, we figure out how to make self-leveling floors with our own hands, we say the magic word "so".

Preparing the surface for the upcoming processing:

• We repair a concrete or cement sub-floor, embroider cracks up to a centimeter wide and fill with a repair mortar, cement-sand or a mixture intended for future pouring. We cut off the perceptible relief bulges with a perforator, remove unreliable segments. Fill the cavities and shallow depressions remaining after removal with a solution, level them flush with the plane of the rough base.
• We check the floor tiles for firmness. We treat unreliable elements as with concrete hills. We fill the seams and recesses with mortar.
• Wooden floors, we repair according to the rules of their restoration. We change dubious elements, update the fasteners, foam the cracks, fill them with wood glue with sawdust or sealant.

We remove oil paint, grease stains, residues of detergents with the help of solvents, then carefully remove dust and dirt from the floor with a damp cloth and a vacuum cleaner.

Depending on the chosen scheme of pouring the leveling mixture, we prime or cover a layer of insulation. We place a damper tape around the perimeter if a floating floor is to be built.

Fill process step by step

The solution must be mixed, strictly adhering to the instructions of the material manufacturer. Violations of proportions and deviations from instructions, which entail deterioration of technological qualities and operational characteristics, are not permissible.

Important. Polymerization of the mixture for manual pouring occurs in 35-40 minutes. after cooking. The exact data on the life of the solution are always indicated on the package.

Due to the short period of suitability of the solution for pouring, attempts to arrange a self-leveling floor without an assistant must be stopped in the bud. Better to enlist two pairs of friendly hands and initially assign responsibilities. One prepares the mass, the second pours, the third distributes with a spatula or iron on a long handle.

It remains only to list the actions, observing the sequence:

• We install a limiter in the doorway - a rail, a piece of drywall or a profile. We will do the same if it is not possible to fill in one step in a too large room or if you plan to install combined floors.
• Fill the mass prepared according to all the rules in strips, no more than 50 cm wide. The first strip runs along the wall opposite the entrance.
• Avoiding any breaks, fill in the second strip, at the same time evenly distribute the solution with a spatula or iron. And so we act until the end of the work.
• We process the filled layer with an aeration roller, due to which the self-leveling floor will part with air bubbles. During processing, we move along the surface in paint shoes - in shoes with support spikes on the sole.
• We cover the filling with polyethylene and wait for the time prescribed according to the instructions, which is required for the maturation of the self-leveling mass.

If it is necessary to give the surface anti-slip properties, sprinkle the poured floor with washed sand or do not be too zealous, expelling air from the mixture with an aeration roller. "Craters" left over from the bursting bubbles will prevent sliding.

It is not difficult to understand the technology of applying self-leveling floor, to perform it, showing dexterity, too. You just need to find out all the important points in advance, take into account the technological specifics and correctly plan actions. Knowing the nuances of filling will not hurt those who decided to entrust it to workers.