Do-it-yourself barrel oven. Simple heating stove from a barrel in top loading

Homemade stove from a metal 200 liter barrel: drawings, stove diagram, photo and video. The barrel stove can be used to heat garages, workrooms, greenhouses and other areas.

A standard metal 200 liter barrel has a height of 860 mm, a diameter of 590 mm and a weight of 20 - 26 kg.

The dimensions of the barrel are almost ideal for making a stove from it, the only caveat is the thin walls of the barrel 1 - 1.5 mm, which will quickly burn out from the high temperature. Alternatively, the firebox can be lined with refractory bricks from the inside.

To make a furnace you will need:

Two 200 liter barrels.
Oven door.
Grizzlies.
Sheet metal, corners and rods.
Chimney pipe.
Refractory bricks.

Instruments:

Grinder with cut-off wheel.
Welding machine.
Electric drill.

Stove from a 200 liter barrel: diagram.

Using a grinder, we cut off the top of the barrel and cut out a side opening for the furnace door.

Using a welding machine, we weld the furnace door to the barrel. At a height of 20 cm from the bottom of the barrel, we install grate bars for ash.

A separate door can be made for the ash pan; by opening it slightly, you can adjust the traction force in the oven.

So that the metal walls of the barrel do not burn out over time, you need to lay out the inner surface of the firebox with refractory bricks. To fit the bricks more tightly, we saw them off with a grinder.

For laying the labyrinth of the chimney, you need to weld the crossbeam from the corners under the bricks.

The bricks are laid out on the oven mortar. The composition of the kiln solution is 1 part clay to 2 parts sand, the mixture is kneaded with a minimum amount of water to a very thick consistency.

The thickness of the masonry joints should not exceed 5 mm.

Stoves are practically free or very cheap material, but at the same time they can make large stoves, including long burning ones.

Manufacturing progress.

First, remove the top of the barrel, then cut through the sidewall for the door.

We take welding and attach the door of the future stove. We measure 200 mm from the bottom and place the grates.

It is advisable to install a door for traction control under the ash pan.

You will need refractory bricks to protect the walls. We spread them from the inside.

For the bricks of the chimney, we install the structure, as in the picture below.

The bricks are laid out on the oven mortar. The composition of the kiln solution is 1 part clay to 2 parts sand, the mixture is kneaded with a minimum amount of water to a very thick consistency.

The thickness of the masonry joints should not exceed 5 mm.

To increase the heat transfer of the furnace, you can install another barrel on top. Under the chimney, you need to make a hole in the barrel and weld a piece of pipe under the chimney.

Two-barrel oven

One of the highest quality do-it-yourself barrel ovens based on the large containers available to us. The stove for kindling firewood consists of two barrels: one for 200 liters, the second for 100 liters. A certain novelty, which not everyone will think of, consists in an increase in heat transfer due to an additional container, the walls of which are heated by hot air that rises up to the pipe. In the second barrel, the fuel also burns out.

The stainless steel pipe is made from the exhaust from a truck. The pipe is specially curved to increase heat transfer to the room.

Looking at the previous video, the thought arises: what if you use the second additional barrel as an oven? The next model does just that!

Oven for cooking food from three barrels

The oven for cooking outside is already made up of three barrels. In the video you will see how bread is baked in one of these barrels.

We made a stove for burning garbage in the country

Another stove for burning leaves, firewood in the country, and at the same time you can cook food on it. This oven is much simpler than those described above, but ease of manufacture in some cases is simply necessary, and this is its advantage.
There is a great advantage to burning garbage in a barrel. It is convenient and safe. A domestic 200-liter barrel was used for the furnace. Its top is cut off by 16 cm. Firewood is laid in the ashtray and kindled, and then leaves are thrown over the top. The author made a special bottom for the furnace from fittings and a hoop from the barrel. The bottom is placed on ledges-corners in order to bring the fire from the wood to the top of the stove. A lid with a pipe is placed on top. You can cook food.

An old metal barrel with a capacity of 200 liters is an excellent material for making a simple potbelly stove. The resulting stove is suitable for heating any non-residential premises, from garages to outbuildings. The stove from a 200 liter barrel has a simple design and does not cause difficulties even for novice craftsmen. Let's take a look at the features of this simple heater and discuss the assembly instructions.

The advantages of a barrel stove

When assembling homemade stoves, artisanal craftsmen often use old gas cylinders or sheet metal. It is problematic to get both, and even almost free of charge. This applies to the greatest extent to sheet metal, which is most often simply bought. Barrels of 200 liters are a more affordable raw material for the construction of heating equipment.

200 liters is quite a decent volume. A firebox organized in a barrel will fit a large amount of firewood, which is necessary for the implementation of long burning. Also, there will be a place for a spacious ash pan. In other words, an old metal barrel will still serve for the benefit of a person, providing him with warmth and comfort.

A barrel stove is an excellent solution for heating non-residential premises of any type. It will fit in the garage, give warmth to a small workshop, and heat the basement. Its assembly does not take much time, but you need to pay attention to the choice of source material. The selected barrel should not be rusted through - the thicker the metal, the longer the stove itself will last. Therefore, you do not need to save on assembly materials.

Other advantages of a barrel stove:

The volume of 200 liters is enough for normal combustion of a flame in the furnace.
The ability to organize a spacious and easy-to-clean ash pan.
Unpretentiousness to fuel - the stove will be able to work on anything that burns.
Easy to operate.

A potbelly stove from a 200-liter barrel is in certain demand among those who need inexpensive and easy-to-assemble heating equipment.

There are also disadvantages:

High case temperature.
Low efficiency - some of the heat simply escapes into the chimney.
Thin Walls - Durable ovens require 3-4mm metal.

Do not try to heat the stove from a barrel with coal - it has a high combustion temperature and can thin the metal.

Assembly sequence

A barrel stove is easy to assemble and requires an equally sophisticated tool. We will need:

angle grinder (grinder);
welding machine;
a hacksaw for metal for working with small parts (it is more convenient this way);
Grinder.

You will also need auxiliary materials:

pieces of sheet metal - for welding doors;
door hinges;
chimney metal;
metal for the legs;
brick and cement for organizing the base for the stove;
fittings for creating a grate.

Prepare cutting wheels for the grinder and electrodes for the welding machine (if using electric welding).

Making a potbelly stove from a barrel is not the most difficult task, the main thing is to follow our instructions exactly and observe safety precautions.

Initial barrel preparation

Making a stove from a barrel with your own hands is as easy as shelling pears. The first step is preparing our "source". A barrel with a volume of 200 liters must be cleaned of paint (if it has been painted). Those who neglect this step will have to inhale the aromas from the burning paint. Our task is to make the barrel shiny, and at the same time get rid of rusty spots. Use a grinder to grind metal.

In the next step, arm yourself with a grinder and carefully cut out two rectangular windows in the barrel. Use the tool carefully, as the sawn out rectangles will be useful to us as doors. We process the edges with the same grinder or file so that they are not so sharp. The door for the firebox should be larger than the door for the ash pan. In addition, the ash pan door will serve as a blower.

Cut off the top of the barrel completely. We will need to collect and place a grate inside the 200 liter barrel. Therefore, the absence of a top cover will ensure the convenience of its installation.

Assembling the grate

Use fittings to make the grate. The diameter of a standard 200 liter drum is 571.5 mm. Therefore, the lattice must be smaller in diameter in order to pass through the internal volume. At the level between the firebox door and the ash pan door, we make arbitrary protrusions - the grate itself will rest on them. For example, you can make them from sheet iron and weld them to the inner walls.

A potbelly stove from a barrel will generate quite a lot of ash that falls into the ash pan. Therefore, it must be large - the recommended height is 100-130 mm. Do not make the door too narrow, otherwise there will be problems with the ease of cleaning.

We prepare the doors

The doors of our stove will be clearly smaller than the loading and ash windows. Therefore, they must be scalded around the perimeter with pieces of sheet iron about 20 mm wide. We also cut out handles from sheet iron, rivet or screw them to the doors. At the next stage, we carefully weld the hinges, after which we weld the doors to the stove itself - now our 200 liter barrel is almost ready to serve a second life.

Making the foundation

For our 200 liter barrel, it is desirable to make legs. For this, adapt pieces of thick reinforcement or make them from metal corners with a thickness of 2-3 mm. The optimum distance from the bottom of the barrel to the base is 100 mm.

Intending to make a potbelly stove from a barrel, think about the place of its installation. You will need a reliable, non-flammable base. It is best to make it out of bricks or pour in a concrete screed. The space in front of the stove is made of non-combustible material - for example, sheet iron laid here. If the floor in the heated room is concrete, just lay a sheet of iron on it and place a barrel on it.

We prepare the chimney

The design of the stove from a 200 liter barrel implies the obligatory presence of a chimney. It would be nice if it was removable - the pipe-in-pipe system is suitable for this. That is, we weld a pipe of a smaller diameter with a height of 100-150 mm to the stove, and already we put on the main chimney of a larger diameter on it. You can also use ready-made factory collapsible chimneys. The bottom line is that the stove can be quickly cleaned by removing it from the base - a volume of 200 liters does not mean at all that it will never get clogged with smoke and soot.

Final assembly of the oven

We take our 200 liter barrel with legs welded to it, install it on a previously prepared base. We lower the grate inside. In the next step, we weld the top cover with a short chimney. Next, we put the main chimney on it and go for firewood.

Put some paper and small chips on the grate, light a fire, until a steady flame appears. Now start laying the main firewood - it is best if it is dry. Wet logs burn worse, and even smoke, clogging the chimney. Close the door of the firebox and adjust the intensity of combustion with the blower. Do not forget to periodically add new portions of fuel until the set temperature is reached.

Modernization of the structure

A barrel with an internal volume of 200 liters can provide a decent amount of heat. But the heat transfer efficiency will be small. Part of the thermal energy will completely fly away into the pipe. Therefore, the stove needs to be slightly retrofitted. This is done in the following ways:

These steps will help you make your barrel stove more efficient. If you do not find a sample for 200 liters, you can take 150 liters - there will be a little less space in it, so you will have to throw up the firewood more often.

Brick walls are being built to the right, to the left and behind the barrel - they will work as a kind of heat accumulators.
The stove is scalded with round pipes of a small diameter (for example, ¾ inch) - a convector is formed, which will cause air circulation in the room and effectively remove heat from the stove.
By lengthening the horizontal part of the chimney - lead it through the entire room in order to take maximum thermal energy from the combustion products.

We will offer you a few more ideas for modernizing the stove from a 200 liter barrel. For example, you can lay out the inside of it with refractory bricks. To organize the hob, use the cast iron insert in the top cover. Try to make a stove with increased heat dissipation - weld two barrels together in height. There are also modifications with horizontal barrels.

Interesting potbelly stove with stone masonry

A 200 liter barrel can serve as the basis for another interesting stove - with masonry inside. To build it you will need:

the barrel itself;
thick metal wire or reinforcement;
large rounded river stones;
chimney pipes.

There is no ash pan in such a stove, so there will be some difficulties with cleaning. We immediately recommend making the firebox door at the level with the bottom of the barrel - this way it is more convenient to rake out the ash. We make a kind of grate from reinforcement or thick metal wire. Only here it will fulfill a different role - it will support the masonry.

To assemble the stove, it is necessary to cut off the top cover from a barrel with a volume of 200 liters and equip it with a pipe for connecting the chimney. In the lower part, we cut out a door for storing firewood with a height of 150-200 mm. We fix a grate at a height of 250 mm, on which we pile stones to the top. Please note that it is precisely large stones that are needed so that combustion products pass through the space between them.

Take a look first at the prototype, if I may say so about the factory-made long-burning boiler of Stropuva from Lithuanian manufacturers.
In the home-made wood-burning stove we are describing for a long time from a barrel, the principle of burning wood or other fuel from above is borrowed, with the fire sinking down as the wood burns, which just gives the effect of prolonging the process. It was made for the first time a few years ago by a man named bubafonya ( bubafonja- his nickname on the forum where he presented his idea). Therefore, its design and the stoves, made by others following his example, were called "bubafoni oven" or simply "bubafoni" in Internet discussions. The stove is really interesting and it is worth studying in more detail how the master created it. At the end of the article, videos with bubafones of other masters will also be posted.

We make a stove from a barrel with our own hands

We will divide the entire work into sequential steps.

First, we make the corpus:

1. At the top of the container, remove the weld seam, align the sharp edges. So, we got a cylinder and a lid to it.

2. Using a hammer, bend the edges of the structure inward and the top element outward.

3. Turn the cover over and put it on the cylinder.

4. Using a chisel, cut an opening in the middle of the cover, into which we insert the blower tube. The hole diameter is 102 mm. This is quite enough for the free passage of the rolled metal product.

If the barrel had a plug, the hole needs to be welded. However, some people prefer to leave it, making it possible to control the combustion process: unscrew the plug and look inside.

5. In the upper part of the barrel we cut out an opening, where we weld in a piece of chimney 25 cm long. A shut-off damper must be installed inside the product.

For better rigidity, the edge of the pancake must be bent. So it will not deform when exposed to high temperatures.

In the middle of the circle, you need to cut a hole into which the blower pipe is welded.

Channels are attached from the bottom of the pancake.

The air supply is ready. Now we place it inside the cylinder.

Assembling the structure

In the upper part of the blower tube, an adjusting flap is installed, the diameter of which coincides with the size of the rolled metal product. The threaded stud is welded into the pipe. You need to position it vertically. On the side of the damper, it is required to cut a hole in such a way that the damper, falling on the pin, tightly closes the pipe.

After installing the damper, you need to tighten it with a wing nut. By loosening this element, you can move it. Loosening and tightening the fastener allows you to adjust the ingress of air masses into the furnace.

The last stage is the installation of the cover. The furnace structure is now ready for use.

Chimney installation

At the final stage, a channel with a diameter of 150 mm is installed. It is necessary to adhere to this value, otherwise there is a possibility of incomplete removal of combustion products.

A pipe longer than 5 m provides good traction. It should be installed directly next to the oven. It is desirable that it stand on its legs. The lower part of the pipe is welded.

To provide for the drainage of condensate formed in the pipe, a ball valve must be welded under the elbow. It should be noted that the presence of this element is a prerequisite. If the condensation freezes, the weld may burst. In addition, there is a possibility of liquid entering the fuel combustion device.

How to heat properly

When the Bubafonya stove is assembled from the barrel, you can start heating the room. How to do it correctly? It is required to remove the lid, get the device supplying air, and put firewood, but not above the lower edge of the flue elbow. If the logs are placed vertically, they will fit more, and even large firewood will burn to the end.

Put a layer of chips on top, on them - a rag or paper, which you need to lightly pour with kerosene.

After the fuel is loaded, a pancake must be put on the device supplying air, and then the lid from the stove. Next, we open the blower flap, throw inside the pipe supplying air, an ignited rag or paper. It will not be possible to ignite with matches because of the strong thrust extinguishing them.

When the wood burns well, it will crackle. Then it is required to completely close the blower flap, which will provide the unit with long-term combustion.

How to legally burn garbage in the country

Now that we have figured out the theory, let's find out what places and methods of burning garbage are available to an ordinary summer resident who wants, observing the laws, to get rid of branches, leaves and other plant debris.

Waste incineration barrel

Most often, summer residents use metal drums with or without a bottom to incinerate garbage. It is not difficult to get such a container - they are inexpensive, and they can work for several seasons. Of course, in a couple of years the barrel will burn out and, according to the Ministry of Emergency Situations, will become unsuitable for burning waste, but in this case it will always be possible to buy a new one.

Such a barrel should be installed 25 m from buildings and groups of trees; you should not prepare a mineralized fire strip, but you still have to take care of something. Firstly, according to the norms, the bottom of the barrel will have to be cut off and installed on a hole dug in the ground. Secondly, it is necessary to prepare a lid that can cover the entire barrel and stop pulling. Finally, you will need to have water or sand on hand to quickly extinguish the fire.

Homemade garbage incinerator

To some, the barrel seems too sloppy and short-lived option. In this case, home-made metal furnaces for incineration of garbage are used, made of steel tanks, spent gas cylinders, metal circles and other materials. The main task of such a furnace is to be spacious and airtight.

The easiest way to make a stove is to weld a spacious box with a lid, a blower and a chimney from thick metal sheets. You will need to install it on brick or block props, and dig a hole under the bottom.

Stone or brick waste incinerator

The stone waste incinerator is durable, aesthetic, versatile and spacious. True, it will not work to move it, so immediately think about in which part of the site you do not plan to build buildings over time.

However, if you already have a stone stove, for example, in a summer kitchen or a bathhouse, then you can burn plant residues in it, along the way preparing dinner or heating the room.

Branded incinerator

The easiest (but not cheapest) way to buy and install a branded incinerator with a chimney. Similar stoves can be found in hardware and garden stores or on construction markets, and they cost from 9,000 to 16,000 rubles. There are also portable options without a chimney - they will cost the summer resident only 5000-7000 rubles.

Such a stove not only allows you to burn garbage on the site, but also it is convenient to remove ash, do without a fire strip, or change the location of the stove several times per season. By the way, some models also have a special cooking plate.

Waste incineration pit

If you do not have barrels or stoves, and you need to burn the garbage, prepare a special pit according to the recommendations of the Ministry of Emergencies.

Move 50 m away from buildings and groups of trees.
Dig a hole 1 m in diameter and at least 30 cm deep.
Clear the area within a radius of 10 m from the pit from dry wood, felling debris, dry grass and other flammable materials.
Prepare a 40 cm wide fire strip along the edge of the cleaned area (remove the turf or fill it with sand).
Prepare tools and water for extinguishing the fire and then start burning garbage in the pit.

Of course, this is a rather laborious method, complicated by the fact that it is difficult to find a plot on the territory of summer cottages where nothing has been built and is not growing. Therefore, a pit where garbage is burned can be organized together with neighbors in a vacant lot.

As you can see, there is no prohibition on waste incineration, there are only rules that must be followed. It is possible to equip a place in accordance with the requirements of the law in one day, and, having spent this time, you will look the fire inspector and neighbors in the eyes with a clear conscience.

Barrel for incineration of garbage in the country

In practice, three variants of such oven devices made from barrels that do not have a bottom have found application.

In the first version, first a small fire is made from some dry waste (birch bark, wood chips, etc.) on a metal pallet. After our fire is kindled, bricks or stones are placed next to it, on which our barrel-pipe without a bottom is installed on top. From below, air enters the holes formed, which helps combustion. The combustion of waste is intense and it is necessary to constantly monitor that our flame does not rise too high and does not throw sparks on the site. But there is also a drawback in this option, with each use it is necessary to put and remove the barrel.
The second option, based on the same barrel, is simpler, it has no shortcomings of the first option. For its device, you first need to prepare the site. Pour a layer of sand 10-15 centimeters thick on the selected place, lay a metal sheet on it, on which a fence-support is made of bricks in the shape of the letter P. We put a metal grate-grate on top, and at the end we install our barrel (of course, also without a bottom) ... So we fill our stove from above with waste, and we arrange a fire from below, between the bricks. The resulting ash, after the waste has burned out, we calmly rake out from below. During rains, so that the ash does not get wet, the barrel must be closed with a lid on top.
The third version of our device is a little close to the second, only it is necessary to cut out a window with a size of about 450x200mm at the bottom of the barrel, and also additionally punch several side holes for blowing air. The bottom of the barrel also rests on bricks with a grate, which can be made from a metal perforated sheet. Unlike the second option, here 40x60mm holes are cut on top of the barrel and a metal lid is installed, where you can pre-dry the garden waste. All of these minor additions provide more favorable conditions for burning waste than the first or second option. And here combustion occurs more evenly and intensively. At the same time, the time required for waste incineration is significantly reduced.

Anyone who wants to tinker can make it more functional and more beautiful. If you do it soundly and for a long time, you can use a piece of used water pipes of large diameter and weld a reliable stove that will serve you for many years. One but - it turns out a little expensive!

Garden fireplaces and waste incinerators

I would especially like to note - these are garden fireplaces, which can be found more and more often on our garden plots. Such fireplaces perform not only a utilitarian function, but also a decorative one, thereby decorating. The designs of such fireplaces are very diverse, but, as a rule, each of them has three nodes that ensure safety in operation. It is a site for waste burning, well protected from different winds, an arched roof and a high chimney that reliably extinguishes sparks.

In conclusion about incineration of garbage in the country

By the way, in many regions the employees of the Ministry of Emergency Situations often began to carry out raids and fine for the burning of household waste in the garden emitting TOXIC substances! Remember this and be careful!

However, it is better to dispose of garden waste in other ways, for example:

branches, foliage and other organic matter are perfect for warm beds;
diseased plants or with signs of damage can be buried in a separate hole, if possible, then outside the site;
cardboard, paper - can be used for mulching the beds;
well, and polyethylene, plastic, cans and other trifles can be taken to the city, in a bag and disposed of in a garbage container.

These garden tricks are used by our gardeners to get rid of garden waste.

And remember, NEVER BURN PLASTIC PRODUCTS, as they emit toxic substances that are very harmful to the environment, and your body too!

How do you get rid of all the garbage in your plots?

Interesting potbelly stove with stone masonry

A 200 liter barrel can serve as the basis for another interesting stove - with masonry inside. To build it you will need:

the barrel itself;
thick metal wire or reinforcement;
large rounded river stones;
chimney pipes.

Please note that it is precisely large stones that are needed so that combustion products pass through the space between them.

The stove will need a solid non-combustible base with a metal sheet in front of the firebox - it will be quite weighty, so the legs must be strong or absent altogether. The barrel is placed on the base before the stones are placed in it. Otherwise, you won't budge it later. After installing the stove in its original place, weld the lid and connect the chimney - you can start kindling. To improve traction, it is recommended to drill several holes with a drill with a diameter of 4-5 mm - air will be sucked in through them.

Garden waste incineration methods

To date, there are several known ways to incinerate such waste.

Burning garden waste on an open fire

The first and predominant way of our summer residents is burning garden waste on an open fire. This is especially noticeable in early spring and autumn. Flaming bonfires and plumes of smoke rising high above the ground can regularly be found in gardeners' plots.

TO START AN OPEN FIRE IS VERY DANGEROUS, and also harmful to the soil, since under the influence of high temperatures from a fire, the earth loses its fertility, all soil microorganisms in the combustion center die.

And if you do not have the opportunity to make a fire in another place, then still arrange it on a thick metal pallet, which is best raised above the ground with the help of some kind of lining: stones, bricks and other scrap materials.

Do not light a large fire at once, as there is a high probability of losing control over it.
It is better to toss in small portions, but more often, and the combustion will be more efficient this way.
In windy weather, it is better to refuse this event.

Incineration of garden waste in an old barrel

The second method is devoid of the disadvantages of the first and consists in the fact that a wide variety of containers are used for incineration, which have already served their life and can no longer be used for their intended purpose.

The most suitable option for waste incineration is an old metal drum.
Such a capacity will take up little space from you.
It can be installed in a permanent place, away from trees and various buildings.

In order to use the barrel, you first need to prepare it. It's simple, the bottom is removed with a chisel, and then all uneven and torn edges are bent with a hammer.

Manufacturing instructions

During the operation of the stove, its body heats up strongly, therefore such a heating device must be placed on a monolithic fire-resistant surface. It can be a layer of concrete, asphalt concrete, metal sheet, or just earth. The stove must have its own chimney; it is prohibited to connect the device to the chimney of other heating devices.

There are two options for assembling such a furnace: with a horizontal and vertical barrel arrangement.

Vertical model

Vertical potbelly stove from a barrel

Diagram of a vertical potbelly stove from a barrel

The process of making a vertical model of the furnace looks like this:

Prepare an opening on the side surface of the barrel to enable loading firewood;

You can buy the door in advance or adapt the cut-out part of the wall: weld the hinges and the handle to it, which provides convenience when closing and opening the combustion chamber;

Cut another hole a little lower than the firebox door for mounting the blower door. For the manufacture of the blower itself, a thick-walled pipe, cut lengthwise, is used. It should be able to move along the metal slats, but not be removed completely;

At a height of 20 cm from the bottom of the tank, install grate bars - a metal plate with holes or a welded cellular structure made of reinforcement. An ordinary steel corner is used to fix them.

Option 1 - mesh lattice

Option 2 - fittings

From the bottom of the barrel, you need to weld metal legs or just install the structure on bricks;

The role of the hob will be played by steel wire, which can be welded to the top cover of the oven;

Brick lining (optional)

To protect the walls of the container from burning out, the inner surface of the furnace can be additionally lined with refractory bricks, giving it a semicircular shape using a grinder. Laying should be carried out on a furnace mortar, which contains 1 part of oily clay and 2 parts of sand. The mixture is made with a minimum amount of water and must have a thick consistency;

Next, we make a chimney (more details below).

A hole for a chimney with a diameter of at least 15 cm is cut from the side of the container in its upper part (or from the side). The height of the pipe must be at least 4 m.When installing it, the following recommendations must be taken into account:

it is advisable not to install the pipe strictly vertically, the presence of horizontal and inclined sections increases the amount of heat received, however, the number of turns should not exceed 3 times;

the bending angle should be 30 degrees, and only in exceptional cases reach 45 degrees;

horizontally located chimney elements cannot be longer than 1 m;

to prevent the appearance of condensation, the part of the chimney that goes out into the street should be insulated with basalt wool;

to reduce the load on the body of the device, the chimney must be attached to the wall.

On the chimney of the potbelly stove, you can install a rotary or sliding gate valve. With the help of this element, you can adjust the intensity of heated smoke removal and completely block the chimney during the period when the stove is not heated.

Horizontal model

The efficiency of a stove stove from a 200 liter barrel will be higher if it is made and placed horizontally.

Barrel potbelly stove - horizontal version

Diagram of a horizontal potbelly stove from a barrel

The algorithm of actions for horizontal placement of the container will be as follows:

Install the barrel on its side;

For the stability of the structure from the bottom of the container, it is necessary to weld the legs from a steel corner or pipes of small diameter;

In the upper part, cut an opening for filling the fuel in the full width of the barrel, so that it is more convenient to get the grate and reflector;

Install a metal reflector inside the container, which will separate the combustion section from the chimney and the grate (you can make it yourself from reinforcement rods;

Cut another opening lower for the flow of air flows into the furnace and cleaning the furnace from ash, or make it a separate structure by welding the ash pan. As a result, the construction will look like this:

Inside view

Weld hinges on one side of each hole and install doors of the appropriate size. For tightness, it is recommended to wrap them with an asbestos-cement cord;

In the back of the container, make a hole for the chimney and weld the pipe. Further installation of the chimney is carried out in the same way as for the vertical model.

You can also weld a sheet of metal on top of the barrel and use it as a hob.

Final design option

Two-barrel oven

The stainless steel pipe is made from the exhaust from a truck. The pipe is specially curved to increase heat transfer to the room.

Looking at the previous video, the thought arises: what if you use the second additional barrel as an oven? The next model does just that!

What is the law on incineration of garbage in a barrel?

Before using a barrel for incineration in the country, it is better to carefully study the law.

Important! Russian legislation establishes a ban on waste incineration on the territory of the city and in summer cottages (ST 20.4 of the Administrative Code of the Russian Federation). ... Environmental Services also talk about environmental damage caused by burning dried plants.

The burning of plant waste, especially in spring, often leads to numerous fires, which sometimes cover vast territories and end very badly. Campfires for burning grass, made in the city, have a negative impact on many residents with hypertension, asthmatic and other diseases.

Environmental services also talk about environmental damage caused by burning dried plants. The burning of plant waste, especially in spring, often leads to numerous fires, which sometimes cover vast territories and end very badly. Campfires for burning grass, made in the city, have a negative impact on many residents with hypertension, asthmatic and other diseases.

Often, employees of various environmental services and inspectors of fire safety services carry out raids on household plots in order to identify fire safety violators and conduct explanatory work with them. However, many "arsonists" ignore warnings up to the point of bringing them to administrative responsibility.

The prohibition of waste incineration is spelled out in the Federal Law “On the Protection of Atmospheric Air”.

Note! It is forbidden to burn vegetable and other waste in the open areas of summer cottages; it is also forbidden to use barrels, trash cans, containers for burning garbage. ... For non-compliance with the provisions of the law, a citizen can be held liable with a fine

For non-compliance with the provisions of the law, a citizen can be held accountable with a fine. The following fines are provided for different categories of persons:

for ordinary citizens - 2,000 - 3,000 rubles;
for citizens who are officials - 6,000 - 15,000 rubles;
for individual entrepreneurs - 20,000 - 30,000 rubles. (or suspension of business activities for up to 90 days);
for legal entities - 150,000 - 200,000 rubles. (or suspension of activities for 90 days).

The amount of fines may vary depending on the region of the country and the time of year (for example, during the established period of the fire regime in May, the amount of fines increases for all persons).

In addition to such monetary compensation, persons whose waste incineration led to a fire will have to pay certain sums of money for the damage caused to the environment.

Employees of environmental services recommend that summer residents use compost pits for the disposal of plant waste. To eliminate other waste, it is necessary to resort to the services of specialized companies for the removal and / or processing of household waste.

The prohibition of waste incineration in summer cottages, how service employees identify violators, are described in this video.

Having studied the legal aspects, we can say that it is still possible to burn plant waste in the country, but at the same time all the requirements of the fire safety rules established by the Ministry of Emergencies must be observed, and the places for burning must be agreed with the fire service employees ...

Modernization of the structure

Brick walls are being built to the right, to the left and behind the barrel - they will work as a kind of heat accumulators.
The stove is scalded with round pipes of a small diameter (for example, ¾ inch) - a convector is formed, which will cause air circulation in the room and effectively remove heat from the stove.
By lengthening the horizontal part of the chimney - lead it through the entire room in order to take maximum thermal energy from the combustion products.

Varieties of ovens

Most often, you can make 2 simple models from a barrel with your own hands.

Vertical model

The barrel is installed vertically on its legs.

For the door, it is advised to use the cut out part of the barrel. It is installed on hinges that are attached to the barrel and to the door. The hinges are riveted as follows: one part for the barrel, the other for the door. Moreover, the loops are located outside. Door latch it is prepared from two parts: a handle is welded onto the door, a latch is welded onto a barrel, made of a corner.
Then the grate is installed: a metal plate with holes. Ordinary corners are suitable for securing them. The blower should be made of a dense pipe, into which the damper is inserted. She has to move but not completely removed. The damper is adjustable with bolts, with a quarter turn turnover. The blower opens to maximum when fired up. At night, the flap is closed almost to a minimum, then the stove simply heats up, but does not go out and does not increase the power of the fire.
A round hole is cut in the upper part of the barrel, there welded chimney pipe... It is better to cut the hole in the form of triangles going at corners from the center to the beginning of the cutout. When bending them, a hole will appear, and the metal remains for riveting.
A grate is installed inside the barrel - a grate. It is needed to maintain the integrity of the bottom. The grate will prevent it from burning out and help to retain heat for a long time.

Additionally, a steel wire is welded on top of the barrel. She will play the role hob... You can boil the kettle, reheat or cook food. The vertical model is quite simple to manufacture and has many options for use: in a country house, in a private residential building, in a summer kitchen, in a hunting or fishing lodge.

The size of the firewood is matched to the size of the firebox. The entire manufacturing process is shown in the video. The wizard shows all the stages and reveals the possible nuances that arise during the work. The video shows how a barrel that had a color loses it. It will burn out quickly enough, almost immediately after the first fire. The stove will turn to a metal color. To strengthen the front, you can weld metal on top, make the door from a dense piece of metal.

Horizontal model

Barrel with a volume of 200 liters is installed horizontally on the surface, in the supine position. It is recommended to immediately install the future oven on legs or on another support. The height of the racks on which the barrel will be installed, selected by the manufacturer... He focuses on the size of the room where the stove will be used. How to make this model with your own hands, told and shown in the video... Almost most of the steps are similar to the vertical method.

Drilled into the bottom of the future furnace ash holes.
A container for ash is bent from a metal sheet - an ash pan, and is welded into the bottom of the barrel. The size of the ash pan is approximately 1/3 of the height of the barrel.
The ash container should there must be a door for cleaning ash, it will affect the strength of the fire in the oven.
Doors for the furnace furnace are made of cut barrel bottoms.
The chimney pipe is installed on the back wall of the barrel or on the top. If for pipe tapping chimney have chosen the top of the barrel, it is better to place it closer to the back wall.

All difficult moments or issues of installing a horizontal model can also be viewed in the video. They often strive to make it with their own hands for installation in garages. In addition, it is easy to heat the stove in a car with an open awning, in a tent, on the street. Such a potbelly stove will heat the area about 30 sq. m... A good model for a hiking bath, for a long stay in the forest.

How to make a do-it-yourself potbelly stove from a barrel

Probably more than one person asks how to make a potbelly stove with your own hands? and how to make a potbelly stove correctly?

A do-it-yourself potbelly stove is a small-sized oven, which is made of metal sheets. Such a stove can heat up a room very quickly (if it is not very large), but it cools down just as quickly after the fuel stops burning.

If we talk about their shape, then they can be very different (round, square, rectangular, conical or in the form of something), it depends on the imagination of the person who makes it.

But in this article we will focus on a hexagonal potbelly stove from a barrel. Have you ever wondered how to make a potbelly stove out of a barrel?

1 - casing (barrel)

2 - fuel tank cap

3 - outlet pipe

5 - cover handle

6 - oven

7 - damper

8 - firebox

9 - blowing compartment (ash pan)

10 - support bricks

11 - felt pad

12 - metal sheet.

In the picture you can see a potbelly stove, in the development of which publicly available materials were used. First of all, we needed a barrel, the capacity of which is 200 liters, the height of the barrel is 850 mm... and the diameter is 600 millimeters. A hexagon can easily fit into such a barrel, the side of which is equal to 290-300 mm... This makes it possible to install standard furnace devices practically without additional work.

Such an oven is very different from many homemade ovens of the same class. It differs in the following:

the stove has a voluminous firebox
has an increased area due to the fact that the combustion chamber is hexagonal
volumetric ash pan with air regulator
volumetric oven with lining
the oven keeps warm for a long time.

In addition, this stove has a good convection effect - this is the transfer of heat through the air that passes through the channels between the fuel block and the casing.

Diy potbelly stove - assembly order

We will cook the fuel block, therefore, in order to avoid mistakes, it is necessary to make a template that can be cut out of thick paper (cardboard) or plywood.

1 - oven

2 - lining compartment

3 - the body of the fuel tank

4 - the front panel of the blower compartment

5 - corner of the oven door frame

6 - upper plate of the lining compartment

7 - lining niche

8 - top stop

9 - side panel of the fuel block housing

10 - support rod

11 # 8212 intermediate plate

12 - corner of the firebox door frame

13, 14, 15 - bottom plates of the firebox

16 - grate saddle

17 - asbestos gasket

18 - door shell

19 - side wall of the ash pan

20 - bolt of fastening of the door

21 - bottom rack

22 - damper fastening bracket.

The template should be in the form of a regular hexagon, the sides of which are equal to 290 millimeters. Having made a template, you will not have any problems with the assembly, you just need to assemble everything according to the template, make money, and you can start welding.

oven
lining compartment
blower compartment.

1 - bottom

Trash should be burned as far away from dry vegetation and combustible materials as possible.
Do not leave the hearth unattended.
Do not get carried away with burning plastic and polyethylene: combustion products give off toxic substances.
Do not burn garbage in dry, hot or windy weather.
There should be a "kit" for extinguishing a fire - sand and water near the hearth.
Do not place the hearth on dry grass, boards or other flammable materials.
The access of animals and small children to the hearth should be limited.

Burning should be carried out as far as possible from buildings, dry vegetation and combustible materials

Features of operation

During the operation of the furnace, it is necessary to alternate the cycles of its kindling, including:

fuel filling;

ignition of the furnace;

direct combustion process with room heating;

cleaning of ash products from the combustion and blower sections.

The most important is the stage of fuel filling, which must be laid in a certain order to facilitate the ignition process. First you need to put paper and thin dry wood on the grate, light a fire and close the door.

After the starting material has ignited, larger logs can be added.

Load the wood carefully so as not to extinguish the fire. At the end of the complete laying of firewood, you need to tightly close the furnace door.

The draft in the stove can be adjusted with a damper on the chimney or by slightly opening the blower door.

In the process of burning the furnace, do not touch its body, so as not to burn yourself.

To restore the draft after a long period of heating, it is necessary to periodically disassemble the chimney and clean its elements from accumulated soot.

Method one. Upgraded barrel

Agree, the options described above using a metal barrel are hardly capable of decorating your site. Therefore, you can do it differently.

First, you need a diagram of the future design, we draw it up. It will look something like this.

Preparatory activities

As for the materials, more of them will be required than in any of the methods already known to us. So, in addition to the barrel, you need to prepare:

5-meter metal profile (we will cut it into five equal lengths);
5 meter steel bar;
a pair of loops;
1 m2 of welded mesh;
spark arrestor (the diameter of its fasteners should be 11.5 centimeters);
200 grams of wire;
1.5-meter tin pipe with a diameter of 11.5 centimeters;
degreaser;
a handle on which a wooden nozzle is worn;
bolts - 6 pieces, the same number of nuts;
electric jigsaw, metal files for it;
20 self-tapping screws with wide caps;
drill for metal with a diameter of 1.2 centimeters;
grinder, circles to it - emery and for metal;
the Bulgarian herself;
refractory paint;
brushes (as an option - we can use a spray);
electric drill;
jigsaw.

Having prepared everything you need, we begin to build a garbage oven for the dacha with our own hands.

The working process

We cut out the door. To do this, draw a straight line at the bottom to which this door will be attached. We cut along the line with a grinder, while making every effort not to touch the side walls.

We make a hole in one of the corners of the formed cut. It is important that it is located close to the side wall of the structure and directly on the cut line. From this point we will move with a jigsaw.

We insert the jigsaw saw into the hole and carefully cut the bottom of the barrel. At the same time, we do not touch the upper part of it. We move as close as possible to the edges of the barrel. A grinder for this, of course, will not work - only a jigsaw.

We make several holes in the door through which air will flow. We do them at the bottom, you can in any order.

If necessary, we clean the barrel of paint or rust using a grinder with an emery disc.

We build the goats. For this we use five pieces of a metal profile. The trestles will consist of a pair of crosspieces connected by a pull rod. We connect the profile strictly at an angle of 90 degrees, for which we make a pair of holes in each of them and tighten them with bolts.

We degrease and paint the barrel, do not forget about the elements of the goats. It is advisable to carry out these procedures in a disassembled state. We paint all the elements in several layers, after each layer we wait for the paint to dry completely.

We collect the goats. We proceed to this a day after painting. Be sure to put washers under the nuts, securely tighten all the structural elements. The resulting strength is quite enough for the barrel and the additional weight, which is debris.
Install hinges and handles. For this we use a screwdriver and self-tapping screws with wide caps.

Note! It is advisable to install the hinges with an assistant, since the door will constantly fail. ...

We form a hole for the chimney. At the top of the barrel, draw a circle with a diameter of 11.5 centimeters.

We equip our garbage stove at the dacha with our own hands with a chimney. Install it on the "petals" so that they are inside. After that, in several places we screw the pipe to the “petals” with self-tapping screws so that it does not come off.

We mount the grate. We do everything as shown in the image below.

Installing the cover. We fasten it with clamps, although we can resort to such a self-made construction of bolts.

As a result, we got such a design. That's it, the trash stove is ready, you can start using it!

How to make a Russian stove with your own hands

Earlier we talked about how to make a real Russian stove on your own, in addition to this article, we advise you to read this information

Choosing a quality barrel

For the manufacture of a potbelly stove, you can use any steel barrel used in the petrochemical, paint and varnish, chemical, metallurgical industries for storage and transportation of technical products:

bulk - oils, solvents, paints, diesel fuel, sodium water glass;

pasty - thick lubricants, bitumen;

bulk - caustic soda, various plasticizers.

They are produced in two types - with an open top and a closed top; they also differ in the thickness of the bottom, cover and shell.

Any of these containers can be adapted for a potbelly stove, if you first clean and rinse its inner surface well. However, the thinner the walls of the container, the faster they burn out, and the stove will fail. Therefore, you need to choose a product with a metal thickness of more than 2 mm for a potbelly stove.

Expert opinion
Nikolay Davydov
Stove operator with 15 years of experience

Well, the best option is a stainless steel barrel. High-alloy stainless steel is the most resistant to high temperatures in the fuel combustion zone, which means that a furnace made from it will serve for a longer period.

Estonian barrel in the Kuban farm

Of the thousands of personal subsidiary farms in the Kuban, the Filippovskys' farmstead of pensioners in the Kalininsky district is one of the most visited. And not only because the spouses Vera Ivanovna and Vladimir Vasilyevich successfully grow a variety of fruits, vegetables, berries and all kinds of animals, from rabbits to ducks. Visitors are interested in the very methods of management of these inhabitants of the Boykoponur farm - zealous and modern.

For example, drip irrigation has been established in greenhouses. And in order to save money on heating them, the Estonian barrel technology is used. Once Vladimir Vasilyevich read about her in a magazine. And now I remembered the advice and made a simple unit myself. The stove from a metal barrel with a capacity of 200 liters works for 24 hours without additional loading. One load takes three small (from under banana) boxes of firewood. Everything can burn, even raw logs, but the better the wood, the more heat.

Firewood is packed into the barrel tightly, "well", up to the chimney hole No. 2, where a branch pipe is installed for removing smoke into the chimney. If the connection in this place is loose, the cracks must be covered with clay or asbestos. The chimney draft should be checked with a match. If it is clogged, the stove will not work, the smoke will go in the opposite direction. Therefore, it is advisable to take a chimney with a larger diameter, from 150 to 250 mm, made of light steel, as for drainage or ventilation.

- For lighting, - says the owner of the courtyard, - you need to put chips or paper near the chimney. I myself water this place (in the drawing it is indicated by the number 3) with diesel fuel. When the smoke goes into the chimney, an air pipe with a cross is placed on the firewood, like for a Christmas tree. Air enters inside through pipe No. 1 with a diameter of 60-100 mm and is supplied to the sides through the crosspiece. The crosspiece can be made from a channel, or it can be made from the corner of an old bed - two pieces per side to make a channel with the ribs down. A tin cover is put on and welded onto the crosspiece. The diameter of the lid should be 40-50 mm less than the inner diameter of the barrel to create a gap between the lid and the walls, through which the smoke rises and heats the barrel. Combustion is slow, heat is given to the walls of the barrel. There is no open flame, therefore the oven is safe to operate. It can be placed in a chicken coop, greenhouse, workshop.

According to Oleg Solovyov, manager of the Kalininsky subsidiary office of Rosselkhozbank, the Filippovskys are one of the best clients of the Bank in the region. Three times they took out loans for the development of their economy, which financial support helped to grow in new directions. Their courtyard can be called exemplary. By the way, the regional deputies, who visited the Filippovskys' farm before discussing the issue "On the state of development of small forms of farming in the agro-industrial complex of the Kalinin region," decided to generalize and promote their experience. And the chairman of the Legislative Assembly of the region, Vladimir Beketov, recommended to the deputy, the head of the Krasnodar compressor plant, to establish industrial production of a furnace based on the "Estonian barrel" technology. But Vladimir Vasilievich continues to improve the design and soon, perhaps, an improved model of it will appear.

Dear readers, if you have invented or improved and successfully use any equipment or device in your household, share your experience. We will be glad to publish your invention in this section of the Agro-Sputnik website. Description, photos and the signature of the author are ready to be accepted by e-mail This e-mail address is being protected from spambots, you need JavaScript enabled to view it

Advantages and disadvantages

Like any equipment, the Bubafonya oven has both positive and negative sides. Among the advantages, the following are noted:

long burning period;
uncomplicated operating conditions;
simplicity of design;
low cost of fuel raw materials;
cheap components;
availability of self-assembly of equipment, subject to the availability of skills in working with a welding machine;
easy transportation due to its small size and weight.

The disadvantages include the following points:

Difficulties in maintenance: it is inconvenient to clean the bottom of the tank, remove combustion products, namely soot, ash.
The appearance of condensation on the pipe walls, which leads to a decrease in efficiency.
The classic version of the stove is characterized by insufficient heat accumulation. To correct this moment, you should design an additional water jacket, sheathe the stove with heat-insulating material or make brickwork.
Heating the bottom of the fuel tank requires placing a non-combustible material underneath it or building a small foundation.
The need to arrange ventilation in the room.

So, we examined the main points of operation and characteristics of the Bubafonya oven. Now let's talk about how to make such a model with your own hands.

Rules for installing a stove stove

In order for you to have no problems and all kinds of trouble with the stove, it should be installed, adhering to certain safety rules:

The oven should only be installed on a fire-resistant surface. It is possible to make it yourself using a tile from a tile or using a brick. The walls located in the vicinity of the stove must also be protected from overheating. The best effect can be achieved by using specialized drywall, as well as any other non-combustible material;
Never place flammable materials near the firebox;
You should also equip an excellent ventilation system in the room in which the stove will be located. This is a very important factor, since the concentration of carbon monoxide in the room must be reduced to zero;
In order to make a potbelly stove, you need to use only high-quality material.

Video: do-it-yourself potbelly stove from a barrel

Making a potbelly stove is absolutely simple, as you have seen. For such a case, you only need materials at hand, which are often found in the garage or at the dacha of almost every person. The potbelly stove will delight the eye if you think through all the details to the smallest detail and make it very carefully.

The chimney is an important element of the entire stove. It should consist of two parts: vertical and inclined (horizontal). In the inclined part of the chimney, the remains of smoke exhausts burn out. This part gives off warmth to the room, it is calculated that almost a quarter of the heat volume comes from the pipe. To avoid burns from accidental contact with the chimney, it is separated by a mesh or cylinder. It is also recommended to close the pipe thermal insulation material.
A grate in a barrel construction. Due to the correct approach to the grates, it is possible to convert a conventional model into a design of slow combustion and efficient heat transfer. This requires removing the grate during use of the oven. Burning will become slow and even. If you plan such actions, the grate is made of light metal or from a set of cast iron small gratings.
The simplest model of a potbelly stove is a gas stove. A gas burner is installed in the firebox. A stove running on such an economical fuel would be a profitable device. Combustion products will escape through the pipe, giving off heat to the room.

The appearance of the stove can be refined. There are a few different ways:

Bricklaying.
Metal welded structures for finishing the barrel base with a specific pattern, carved legs and doors.

Potbelly stoves are a fairly simple product, but it is for this quality that it is considered a genius creation of a person. After watching a video on making a stove, you can simply repeat everything that its authors offer. DIY work will benefit the household, will solve many tasks and problems. The stove is useful for a fisherman, hunter and just a summer resident. It is not only easy to make, but also quite simple to transport. The product will not be difficult to store and install.

First firebox

Well, when almost everything is ready, we do the first kindling of the stove, after all, you need to check if there is a draft. We threw in some firewood, unscrewed the plug, it was blowing, we will modernize it a little later. Of course, we are already beginning to understand that we shouldn't have burned the paint barrel beforehand.

First, the smoke poured into the garage, since the stove was not warmed up, and the draft was too weak, later, for kindling without smoke, I warm up the air inside the stove with a gas burner, and then I melt the wood, and there is no smell of smoke inside the garage when kindling. So in the photo there is the first furnace of the stove, now it will start to burn from the paint. We set up sheets of iron to protect our unfinished walls in the garage.

After 15-20 minutes, the barrel of the stove warmed up, and began to burn, terribly stinking of burnt paint, they opened wide all the doors and gates

Everything was burnt somewhere within 30-40 minutes, while it became warm in the garage, even with the gates open, excess heat from the stove to the face, although it was not cold outside. somewhere -5 degrees.

Furnace assembly procedure

From the video of the film, you can understand how to properly assemble the stove.

Prepare a life-size cardboard product template. Sample is a hexagon.
Collect all parts in according to the drawing.
Weld the furnace components. There are 3 of them in the structure: an oven, lining and blower compartments.

The lining compartment consists of a rear wall, two sidewalls, a bottom and diagonal inserts connecting the rear wall to the sidewalls. The oven has a box and 4 supports.

The blower compartment is the more complex part of the oven. It consists of the following parts:

2 side walls;
back wall;
grate saddle;
ash pan bottom;
Front Panel;
frame for fixing the door.

All the details are easy to do with your own hands, having studied the recommendations and advice of the masters on the video instructions.

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Preparatory work for the production of the furnace

Initially, you need to prepare the necessary materials, equipment and tools.

Barrel selection

For this design, it is better to use stainless steel cylinders or barrels with thick walls. But such materials are difficult to find, and they will be expensive. Therefore, we will consider the option of using the simplest steel 200 liter container with stiffening ribs on the body.

The thickness of their side walls is sufficient, and for the bottom we will use a grate made of reinforcement. Stiffening ribs will strengthen the walls. The simplicity of design and work will allow you to quickly replace a burnt-out furnace after 7-10 years of its use, during which time all the work will pay off many times over.

But when buying at a metal collection point or when you find a barrel in a landfill, be sure to make sure that it does not contain gasoline or oil. Such a vessel will need to be pre-rinsed and cleaned of fuel residues. Only after making sure that there are no flammable liquids and gases can you start work.

200L barrel

Consumables and their quantity

You will need to prepare a number of blanks for the grate and fastening the grate to the compartment with stones.

These are just the basic materials for work. We need to prepare refractory bricks for lining the inside of the firebox. A piece of pipe suitable for a sandwich chimney pipe. All these materials can be purchased before installing the stove and leading the chimney to the roof.

Instruments

For the production of work, prepare:

welding machine:
welding mask and clothing;
electrodes for welding structural steel;
grinder with stripping and stock of cutting discs;
locksmith's tool;
trowel and container for mixing the solution.

Scheme

Diagram of a furnace from a barrel for a bath

Many people make such a stove with the ability to open the lid and pour stones for steam. But in this case, carbon monoxide escapes into the room. We are making an option where the furnace lid will be recessed into the body by 100 mm and a row of stones will be placed on top. In this case, steam lovers will be able to splash water from the gang onto the bricks without opening the lid.

We will fix the hot water tank on the side. Such a container can be found at a buy-out or made yourself from sheet steel. The container will be secured to the side wall. A hole is made in it for filling in water and a branch pipe is welded for winding the water tap.

Making a stove from a barrel

So far, we have finished with the pipe, it’s over the stove, I took a 100 liter metal barrel for this purpose, I think it’s enough for the garage, the size is quite suitable, for firewood. I will make a door, and whatever would take away the metal, I decided to make a kind of frame for the door, and weld to the barrel itself. In general, an estimate of the corner in the photo below.

I cut out the corners for the frame, it remains a little to adjust and file what is in the way.

Sawed in such a way that the corner was on the same level, and there was no gap between the frame and the barrel, because the door in the stove should close tightly.

I grabbed a corner right on the barrel itself, it remains to cut out the door, but first welded the frame from all sides to the barrel, including from the inside.

Then they drank the opening of the stove with a grinder, the firewood should fit in without problems, and the ash also has the ability to clean up.

Next, I took a piece of sheet metal 3-4 mm somewhere, cut it out to fit the opening, and welded on a loop, the usual one used for interior doors. I welded it as if standing, rested its butt against the corner, and scalded it.

General view of the door

Site Incineration and Campfire Act

The incineration of garbage in summer cottages, garden plots and areas adjacent to private houses is regulated by paragraph 218 of the RF Fire Safety Regulations, Article 20.4 of the Administrative Offenses Code of the Russian Federation and the order of the Ministry of Emergency Situations of January 26, 2016. The most important thing for summer residents is the last document, because it tells in detail, in what situation is it forbidden to burn garbage, and when and how it is still possible. The full text of the order can be found on the website of the Ministry of Emergencies, and we will analyze the main postulates.

It is prohibited to burn tires, bags, plastic bottles, film and other materials of artificial origin.

So, if you are going to burn garbage on the site or near it, then you need to equip the place in accordance with the requirements of the Ministry of Emergencies and invite a representative of the Fire Inspection for approval. The place itself must comply with a number of norms.

When lighting an open fire, the following rules must be observed:

an open fire can be made in a pit at least 30 cm deep, no more than 1 m in diameter;
the fire should be 50 m away from all buildings, 100 m from the coniferous forest, 30 m from the deciduous forest;
the site on which the fire is located must be 10 m clear of dry branches, felling residues, dry grass and other combustible materials;
a mineralized fire strip with a width of at least 40 cm should pass along the edge of the site;
the site must have the necessary tools and materials for extinguishing the fire;

After burning, you need to fill the site or container with water or fill it with sand until the combustion / smoldering stops completely.

If you use a closed container made of non-combustible materials (barrel, oven, etc.) for waste incineration, then the requirements change:

the waste incineration tank should be 25 m away from all buildings, 50 m from the coniferous forest, 15 m from the deciduous one;
the site on which the container is located must be 5 m clear of dry branches, felling residues, dry grass and other combustible materials;
it is not necessary to arrange a fire strip;
next to the container there should be a metal sheet that can cover it from above and restrict the access of air to the fire;
the person controlling the combustion must be on the site until the end of the combustion (smoldering).

The absolute prohibition on burning garbage and making fires applies: on peat soils; when a special fire safety regime is introduced in the relevant territory; under the crowns of coniferous trees; in relation to containers whose walls have a through burnout; in case of gusts of wind with a speed higher than 5 m / s (for open fire) and 10 m / s (for containers).

Other oven options

It is possible to make a potbelly stove with your own hands from a barrel of a more complex design, these include a hexagonal potbelly stove. For its basis is taken the same barrel of 200 liters... A hexagon is inserted into it from the constituent parts of the future potbelly stove.

If we describe the furnace device from the bottom up, then the order location will be as follows:

Felt pad for softness and stability.
Asbestos, or another that protects against fire.
A metal sheet. It protects the floor from possible fire and heating.
Support bricks. They are the legs of a potbelly stove.
Blower compartment... This is the place where ash accumulates.
The firebox. A place to light wood, coal and other selected fuels.
Damper.
Oven... A place for cooking, heating the air.
Lining compartment.
Outlet pipe for the chimney.

All parts of the hex are inserted into the barrel. On the front panel (part) of the barrel, doors are welded or riveted for the blower compartment, oven, lining compartment.

A stove stove from a 200 liter barrel can be installed in different rooms: in a garage, in a country house, in a warehouse, etc. Its main advantage is its high heating rate. It quickly heats up the air in the room and cools down just as quickly due to the properties of the metal case.

Collapse

The most popular home-made model is considered to be a potbelly stove from a barrel. For its manufacture and installation, expensive materials and special skills are not required. It is arranged so simply that you can easily assemble it with your own hands.

About construction

The homemade potbelly stove from a barrel has a height of 89 cm, a diameter of 60 cm and a weight of 21 - 25 kg, has a deaf hearth and a fairly high chimney. The fuel is sawdust, wood shavings, dry wood and fuel briquettes. Due to the rather thin metal walls and the height of the body, the efficiency of such a furnace does not exceed 15 - 20%.

The principle of its operation is quite simple: wood is put into the firebox and ignited. When burning, firewood emit a large amount of thermal energy, which is transferred to the body of the stove stove. The heated metal gives off heat to the surrounding atmosphere and heats the room. The amount of heat is increased by a long chimney through which hot smoke moves to the street.

Expert opinion

Nikolay Davydov

Stove operator with 15 years of experience

For the correct flow of gas-dynamic processes in a potbelly stove from a 200-liter barrel, the blower should be located as low as possible. Otherwise, the lower part will take a significant part of the thermal energy and redirect it to the ground. If the blower needs to be placed higher, then the lower part of the container can be bricked up.

Choosing a quality barrel

bulk - oils, solvents, paints, diesel fuel, sodium water glass;

pasty - thick lubricants, bitumen;

bulk - caustic soda, various plasticizers.

They are produced in two types - with an open top and a closed top; they also differ in the thickness of the bottom, cover and shell.

Expert opinion

Nikolay Davydov

Stove operator with 15 years of experience

Additional materials

For the construction of a heating device, in addition to the 200-liter metal barrel itself, the following additional building materials and stove accessories will be required:

small steel sheet;

fireclay brick for a vertical model or a reflector for a horizontal one;

a small section of the channel;

steel pipes for the chimney;

grate fittings;

sand, clay for making mortar;

asbestos cord;

furnace door;

blower door;

basalt wool for chimney insulation.

Required tools

To build a high-quality potbelly stove from a 200-liter barrel with your own hands, you need to prepare a minimum set of tools, consisting of:

welding machine;

grinders or hacksaws for metal;

a standard hammer, pliers and chisel;

steel brush;

drills with a set of drills;

measuring instruments: tape measure, level and plumb line.

Personal protective equipment is also needed for welding: a protective mask, dielectric gloves, overalls made of thick fabric and closed shoes.

Manufacturing instructions

There are two options for assembling such a furnace: with a horizontal and vertical barrel arrangement.

Vertical model

Vertical potbelly stove from a barrel

Diagram of a vertical potbelly stove from a barrel

The process of making a vertical model of the furnace looks like this:

Prepare an opening on the side surface of the barrel to enable loading firewood;

You can buy the door in advance or adapt the cut-out part of the wall: weld the hinges and the handle to it, which provides convenience when closing and opening the combustion chamber;

At a height of 20 cm from the bottom of the tank, install grate bars - a metal plate with holes or a welded cellular structure made of reinforcement. An ordinary steel corner is used to fix them.
Option 1 - mesh lattice

Option 2 - fittings

From the bottom of the barrel, you need to weld metal legs or just install the structure on bricks;

The role of the hob will be played by steel wire, which can be welded to the top cover of the oven;

Brick lining (optional)

Next, we make a chimney (more details below).

the bending angle should be 30 degrees, and only in exceptional cases reach 45 degrees;

horizontally located chimney elements cannot be longer than 1 m;

to prevent the appearance of condensation, the part of the chimney that goes out into the street should be insulated with basalt wool;

to reduce the load on the body of the device, the chimney must be attached to the wall.

Horizontal model

The efficiency of a stove stove from a 200 liter barrel will be higher if it is made and placed horizontally.

Barrel potbelly stove - horizontal version

Diagram of a horizontal potbelly stove from a barrel

The algorithm of actions for horizontal placement of the container will be as follows:

Nikolay Davydov

Stove operator with 15 years of experience

Flammable things should not be placed near the stove, and when moving, beware of accidental contact with open skin areas with its body in order to avoid burns. The room where the potbelly stove is installed must be well ventilated, at least in a natural way.

Features of operation

During the operation of the furnace, it is necessary to alternate the cycles of its kindling, including:

fuel filling;

ignition of the furnace;

direct combustion process with room heating;

cleaning of ash products from the combustion and blower sections.

After the starting material has ignited, larger logs can be added. Load the wood carefully so as not to extinguish the fire. At the end of the complete laying of firewood, you need to tightly close the furnace door.

The draft in the stove can be adjusted with a damper on the chimney or by slightly opening the blower door.

In the process of burning the furnace, do not touch its body, so as not to burn yourself.

To restore the draft after a long period of heating, it is necessary to periodically disassemble the chimney and clean its elements from accumulated soot.

Output

The stove stove is a fairly simple heating device, and it is for this quality that it is considered a brilliant invention. How to make a potbelly stove from a barrel can be understood from the instructions and build it yourself. The potbelly stove will bring considerable benefit: it will solve the problems of heating outbuildings and country houses, remote from the central gas supply lines. In addition, it is easily transported and installed, if necessary, it can be moved to another room.

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