One of the most important comfort factors in a home, especially in winter, is warmth. It can only be provided by a competently arranged heating system, at the same time efficient and economical. To achieve such a balance will only help the correct approach to choosing the optimal heating system scheme for a particular room and the correct connection of the batteries. Otherwise, the efficiency of the radiators will be only 50-70% of the maximum possible power. Let's try to analyze all the options for connecting heating radiators and the method of their installation.

The type of connection depends on the heating system used (natural or forced circulation, two-pipe or) and on the building structure.

The following connection types are distinguished:

Each of them, moreover, can be carried out with or without a bypass.

Side (one-way) connection

This scheme involves connecting the outlet and inlet pipes on one side of the heater. The coolant, as a rule, enters the upper branch pipe and is removed using the lower one. The circuit is distinguished by rather low heat losses (no more than 5%) and ensures uniform heating of each section of the radiator. According to statistics, side connection of heating radiators is the most common option in multi-storey buildings connected to a central heating system.

The popularity is easily explained by the convenience and low cost of installation with decent heat transfer from the batteries. Such a scheme is most effective in, as well as when using radiators with at least 10 and no more than 15 sections. An increase in the number of sections will sharply reduce the efficiency of the battery, since the coolant will not be able to effectively heat the sections farthest from the pipes.

Diagonal (crossover) connection

In a cross-over circuit, the inlet pipe is connected from the top of the heater, and the outlet pipe is connected from the bottom, and on the opposite side. Such a scheme is the answer to the question of those who are interested in which connection of heating radiators is better in terms of heat transfer, since the coolant is distributed evenly over the entire area of ​​the battery. The diagonal connection is considered the most effective, and the manufacturers of radiators in the product passport tie the rated power of the device to the diagonal system.

It allows you to reduce heat loss up to 2%. Especially in demand is a diagonal connection with 10-12 and more sections in heating devices. The scheme also has a number of disadvantages:

1. not too aesthetic appearance;
2. excess pipe consumption;
3. inconvenient and lengthy installation.

Despite the obvious advantages, due to the last two disadvantages, construction companies practically do not use such a heating connection in their apartment complexes.

Bottom connection: saddle and vertical

In the post-Soviet space, the lower scheme is often referred to as "Leningrad". The saddle version of the bottom connection implies the installation of the inlet pipe on one side of the lower part of the device, and the outlet pipe on the other side of the lower part. In general, this is the least effective way of connecting among all, since the upper part of the radiator warms up much worse, and heat loss reaches 15%. However, this is true only in relation to multi-storey buildings with a large total length of pipes and a huge number of radiators.

Saddle connection of heating batteries in a private house with an autonomous pumping system reduces heat loss to acceptable levels. The main area of ​​application of the saddle system is single-storey houses, the pipes of which are laid inside the floor. An indisputable plus of the scheme is the aesthetics of the heating device due to the almost invisible pipes.

The second subspecies of the bottom connection is a vertical scheme. It is rarely used and only for those types of radiators in which a lower connection is provided. The pipes in such batteries are located next to each other in one of the lower corners of the device. A special locking and connecting unit is used for connection. The advantages of the vertical scheme are the appearance (even more invisible than in the saddle scheme, pipes) and the economy of pipes. The disadvantages are the uneven heating and the low efficiency caused by it.

In general, both the one and the other methods of connecting heating batteries are the least effective of all.

Bypass connection

In the case when a serial connection of heating radiators (one-pipe) is used, in order to be able to regulate the temperature in each of the rooms, a special jumper is installed - a bypass. The bypass is located between the inlet and outlet of the radiator and allows the coolant to move, even if the valves on the devices are closed. For a better distribution of the water flow between the bypass and the radiator, the bypass is made of a pipe with a smaller diameter than that of the main pipes. The piping of the radiator in such a system involves the installation of two valves - on the inlet and outlet pipes.

A much less popular version of the scheme is the installation of only one three-way valve at the junction of the bypass with the riser.

Installation of radiators

Before purchasing and installing heating devices for his home, it will be useful for the owner to learn about how the heating battery is arranged, the principle of operation of the heating battery, their classification by device (sectional, plate, tubular, panel), volume and material of manufacture (cast iron, steel , aluminum, copper, bimetallic). In general, bimetallic panel and sectional radiators are considered the most optimal, albeit an expensive option.

Necessary equipment and materials

When the heating devices are purchased, and the connection diagram is selected, you can proceed with the installation. Whatever the devices, the correct connection of the heating radiator is impossible without the following (common to all types of pipes and batteries) set of tools:

Among the materials for connection you need:

The need for additional tools and materials is influenced by the methods of connecting heating radiators and the material of the pipes. Before correctly connecting the heating battery to a metal pipe by welding, you will have to acquire a gas welding machine and, of course, the skill of working with it.

If you plan to connect to threaded connections, you will need to purchase:

To connect radiators to metal-plastic pipes, you will need:

If the owner wondered how to properly connect heating radiators to polypropylene pipes, he will need to get:

Installation procedure

So, the owner of the apartment has purchased tools, consumables and the heating radiator itself, how to connect it to the heating system?

The installation procedure is generally similar for all types of devices:

It is also necessary to remember: if the radiator is new, it is not recommended to remove the plastic film from it until the installation is completed. This will prevent scratches and dirt during installation.

From experts you can hear the opinion that a one-pipe heating system is a relic of the past, nevertheless, it still stands among effective methods of heating private and multi-storey buildings.

One has only to slightly modify the well-deserved classics, and all the advantages of a one-pipe connection will appear when installing heating systems: comfort, coziness in the house and the possibility of local repair of the heating system without turning off the heat supply.

And also - saving money when the power supply of the territory is cut off.

One-pipe system: connection highlights and real installation benefits

Initially, a one-pipe system for connecting heat supply was the only profitable: heating radiators were connected according to physical parameters "Serial connection".

The choice was based on economical pricing:

• Costs cut in half on the purchase of conductors for the coolant in comparison with a two-pipe system.
• Savings have been achieved when buying footwear, fittings, taps.
• Radiators of all existing brands were suitable for this system: from cast iron classics to "advanced" bimetal.

Not without negative points: radiators, sequentially looped, heated unevenly, the latter in the circuit did not correspond to the specified (expected) temperature parameters. This was until the time when experts discovered the bypass principle known as bypass.

Pros of bypass

It is sometimes difficult for a homeowner to make a decision on the recommendation of specialists when installing a one-pipe heating system to install a bypass. The principle is simple: a bypass pipe is included in the design (this is the bypass), which will save material resources, and allows for local repair of the radiator without shutting down the entire system. The latter is relevant for owners of private houses and for residents of typical high-rise buildings of the last century.

Photo 1. Radiator connected to the heating system. Arrows indicate the location of the bypass and ball valves.

For owners of an extensive living space with a one-pipe heating system, it will be advisable connecting a "stroke"... It is a piece of pipe that is installed in the immediate vicinity of the radiator. Pipe diameter one position lower than the cross-section of the main pipeline... This is due to the fact that when the carrier is fed, the water prefers to rush through the channels of a larger diameter. Thus, it becomes possible to start repairing leaking radiator assemblies painlessly for heating a house.

The gravity system does not provide a comfortable (and adjustable) temperature in living quarters, this is where a bypass is needed. Craftsmen mount a bypass pipe with a circulating pump and temperature sensors located in it. It doesn't matter if the power supply is interrupted - bypass will direct water flows according to the principle of "gravity" and in emergency mode. Bypass pipe brings savings to the homeowner up to 25% electricity charges, alternating between gravity and forced circulation of the coolant.

Attention! Install the circulation pump in the bypass pipe, adhering to the "curvilinear" rule: the more bends, the lower the thermal conductivity of the heating system.

The bypass is "surrounded" on both sides by ball valves to block the water supply to a specific radiator.

Correct installation of the structure without a bypass pipe

Such a scheme does not require a parallel pipe branch. based on welding or fastening using adapters and fittings.

The primitivism in installation and some cost savings will subsequently bring a lot of problems to the homeowner. The most expensive item is shutting down the system in case of local leaks in the pipeline or radiator.

Tools

To organize heat supply, you do not need to purchase special sets of tools - plumbing fixtures and those keys that are available from the home master will cope with the task. Add only specific tools to the home kit:

• special keys for connecting American women;
• tools for screwing adapters;
• torque wrenches for delicate parts.

Reference. Professionals advise not to purchase expensive equipment for attaching parts with a union nut. Copes with the task open-end (or adjustable) wrench with pliers. The first one holds, the other twists.

Schemes and connection methods

With a single-pipe connection scheme for heating supply to housing several schemes for obtaining energy from a heat source are used.

• Diagonal connection is an effective method. The pipes alternate with upper and lower connections at the border of one radiator: the heat input falls on the upper branch pipe, the output - at the bottom of the battery. Such a system has proven itself perfectly when connecting radiators. over 10 links, the batteries are warmed up evenly.

Photo 2. Connecting a heating radiator diagonally. The hot coolant is marked in red, the cold one - in blue.

• The lower piping, according to experts, is less efficient in terms of thermal conductivity, but it is used in closed heating systems when pipes run horizontally from the boiler and are hidden under the floor.
• Vertical connection based on the installation of a riser in the boiler area, the remaining elements of the heating structure are connected to it. The advantage of this method is the absence of air congestion during the gravity of water.
• Top routing(incoming and outgoing pipes are installed at the top from different sides) is used in radiators of a special design, where forward flow is excluded. The media goes down the first section and runs along the rest of the links.

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How to properly connect radiators

When installing the heating system, it is important to correctly install the radiators, fixing them on the wall under the window openings. According to the norms, it is impossible that the distance from the floor and window to the battery was less than 10 centimeters... Half the gap allowed from the wall.

To secure these elements use 3 brackets for each unit: two are attached at the top points, one at the bottom.

Level the surface of the battery vertically; horizontally, a slight decrease is allowed so that air does not accumulate in the upper part.

Achieve such a level that the radiator plugs come directly to the location of the pipes. Screw on each battery Mayevsky crane(to the upper point), mount the plug down. Install heat regulators if necessary.

With the help of adapters (futorok), transitions from right to left threads are provided from pipes of different diameters. For connecting batteries to the pipeline are sold sets with squeegees, adapters, couplings and valves. The kit is completed with gaskets that do not need additional waterproofing. Sometimes, when threaded connection of pipes and adapters, gaskets do not save, then use linen impregnated with linseed oil.

Important! Start winding the adapters by cleaning pipes and joints: the presence of paint is not allowed in the joints. Work with emery "to bare metal." Otherwise, the paint will flake off over time and the joint will leak.

When installing the system yourself, do not save on the installation of cranes- otherwise, minor repairs will have to be done when the system is turned off and the pipeline is cut.

Without a high-quality heating system, no house will be as comfortable and cozy as possible. Especially if it is located in Russia - after all, our country does not have a mild climate. When planning the heating system in our own house and what will be the system for connecting heating radiators, we try to make sure that it heats the house or apartment well, is of high quality and works without failures.

But many owners add one more requirement, which, it should be noted, is quite logical. The heating system must also be economical. That is, its acquisition, and installation, and further operation, and which connection of heating radiators is better, should not cost the owner a pretty penny, as they say.

One of the most common ways to save money on a heating system is to purchase and install it without the involvement of specialists.

And it should be noted that even those who have never dealt with heating systems before do an excellent job of this task. Of course, in order to do everything right, you need to familiarize yourself with some information, including the connection diagrams for heating radiators. Let's consider how to connect heating radiators and how best to connect a heating radiator for you.

The principle of connecting radiators

Heating devices can be connected to the system in different ways. Let's consider examples of connecting heating radiators. In many ways, the choice of the type of radiator depends on its size and location relative to other radiators in the system, as well as the type of the system itself.

There are such methods of connecting heating radiators: lateral, diagonal, heating radiators with a lower connection, serial connection of heating radiators and parallel.

The most common are lateral connections and radiators with bottom connections. Let's take a closer look at these types:

• side connection. This method is characterized by the connection of the supply pipe to the upper branch pipe, and the outlet pipe to the lower one. That is, both pipes - both the supply and the outflow of the coolant - are located on one side of the radiator. This method is quite common for the reason that it allows you to achieve maximum heating of the radiator, and, accordingly, maximum heat transfer. However, radiators with side connection should not be used for a large number of sections - in this case, the latter may not be warmed up enough. However, if there is no other way of connection, then an extension of the water flow should be used to eliminate the problem.
• radiators with bottom connection. This option is used if the heating batteries with lower wiring pass under the baseboards or the floor. The bottom connection is called the most beautiful - heating batteries with a bottom connection and supply of coolant and its outflow are hidden under the floor and connected to the radiator using nozzles directed to the floor.

Types of heating systems

Today there are a fairly large number of types of heating systems. Each of them has its own characteristics for connecting radiators. Undoubtedly, if you decide to involve a master to install the batteries, he knows all this. But if you plan to install radiators on your own, then you need to distinguish between the types of connection of heating radiators - after all, you need to know which system will function in your home.

One pipe system

This type of heating is common in multi-storey buildings. The ease of planning and installation, as well as the minimum amount of materials used, make it very profitable.

But the one-pipe connection of heating radiators has a significant drawback - there is no possibility of adjusting the heat supply (the degree of heating of the batteries). And in some cases this is a significant disadvantage.

In this case, the heat transfer of the system is calculated even when creating a heating project, and in the future it fully corresponds to the specified parameter.

The principle of operation of this heating system is simple - a heated coolant is supplied to the battery through one circuit. And the outflow of the cooled coolant is carried out along a different circuit. All heating devices in the system are connected in parallel. A significant advantage of a two-pipe heating system is that it is possible to control and, if necessary, adjust the heating level. To do this, special valves are placed on the two-pipe connection of heating radiators - on a separate radiator. It is important to remember that when connecting radiators, it is necessary to accurately follow all the rules specified in SNiP 3.05.01-85.

Where is the best place to install a radiator?

Heating radiators installed in any room, in addition to the heating function, have one more, no less important - protective one. That is, the flow of warm air coming from the heater creates a kind of shield that protects the room from the penetration of cold air. And, in this case, it does not matter how the radiators are connected - parallel connection of heating radiators or this is a series connection of heating radiators.

It is the creation of such a barrier from the cold that makes us install radiators where cold air seeps out - in the niche under the windows.

Therefore - parallel or series connection of heating batteries will be in this case - does not matter.

In order for the room to be maximally protected from the cold, before proceeding directly with the installation of radiators, it is necessary to correctly determine the places where they will be located. This is not an unnecessary precaution - after all, there will be no possibility to change anything in the future.

Another important feature is that you should not only know exactly where to place the batteries, but also how to do it correctly, and in the future, what will be the connection diagram for heating radiators.

In particular, there are several rules regarding how far from surfaces the heater should be installed:

• from the bottom point of the window sill to the top point of the radiator must be at least 10 cm;
• from the floor surface to the lowest point of the radiator must be at least 12 cm;
• from the rear wall of the radiator to the wall must be at least 2 cm.

Types of coolant circulation and connection options

The coolant, which in most cases is water, can circulate in the heating system in two ways - forcibly and naturally. Forced circulation implies the presence of a special pump in the heating system, through which the coolant is moved. The pump can be an element of the heating boiler (that is, it is built inside), or it can be installed directly in front of the heating boiler - on the return pipe. When developing, the heating battery connection diagram must correctly determine the place for the pump in advance.

The natural circulation system is the perfect solution for those homes that experience frequent power outages. The movement of the coolant is based on the elementary laws of physics. In such a system, the boiler is non-volatile.

In many ways, the types of connection of heating radiators depend not only on the type of coolant circulation. In addition, it is also necessary to take into account the duration of the pipes of the system and the peculiarity of their location.

This type of radiator connection assumes that both the hot coolant supply pipe and the return pipe will be connected to the same side of the battery. The use of such a connection principle is the most rational for one-story houses. It is especially suitable if you plan to connect long enough radiators - up to 14-15 sections. However, if the number of sections is more than 15, the heating efficiency may decrease - that is, the last sections of the radiator will be colder than those closer to the pipes. Therefore, in this case, you should choose other options for connecting heating radiators.

Saddle and bottom connection

This connection is suitable for systems with pipes installed under the floor surface. In this case, there will be only a small piece of pipe above the surface, which is fed to the lower branch pipe. In this case, the inlet pipe is mounted on one side of the radiator, and the outlet pipe on the other. The disadvantage of this connection method is a significant (up to 15%) heat loss. In the upper part, the radiator may not completely warm up.

Diagonal connection of heating radiators is most rational to use for radiators with a large number of sections. The design of the radiator allows the coolant to be distributed within the sections as evenly as possible - this makes it possible to obtain maximum heat transfer. The essence of the connection is simple - a heated coolant supply pipe is connected to the upper branch pipe. And a return pipe is supplied to the lower branch pipe on the other side of the radiator. The advantage of this type of connection is the minimum heat loss - it is only 2%.

The quality of heating the room will depend on how correctly you determine the methods of connecting the heating batteries to your heating system. The proposed options for connecting heating batteries are extremely simple and of the highest quality.

One of the stages of installing a heating system in an apartment or a private house is the installation of heating batteries with connection to highways. It is better to perform this operation before laying pipes, it is easier to make neat radiator connections. We will reveal the rest of the nuances of installation work in detailed instructions on how to properly install a heating radiator with your own hands.

Selection of heating devices by type and power

If you have not yet purchased the batteries, then before installing you need to select heating radiators from 4 varieties available for sale:

1. Sectional aluminum. They are made of light alloy - silumin (aluminum + silicon) in the form of ribbed sections, painted with a heat-resistant polymer composition.
2. Bimetallic heaters are made of two types - sectional and monolithic, although externally finished batteries look the same. Construction: inside each silumin section there is a frame made of steel pipes.
3. Cast-iron heating devices - designer and Soviet-style - are only sectional.
4. Steel radiators are welded from stamped metal (panel) or manufactured by casting (tubular).

Note. In addition to the heaters shown in the photo, there are copper and baseboard convectors. They are rarely used in water systems.

Choose the type of heating devices according to two criteria: price and appearance, corresponding to the interior of the rooms. One caveat: any batteries are suitable for the autonomous heating system of a private house, and radiators that can withstand a pressure of 12 bar for an apartment with centralized heating. in a separate instruction.

The heat dissipation of batteries and registers is spelled out in the manufacturer's technical documentation. According to current standards, the power of the radiator sections is indicated at a temperature difference between the coolant and room air of 70 ° C.

For example, the room temperature is 20 degrees, the water in the pipes is 90 ° C, then the section will give off approximately 180 W of heat. Since the coolant rarely heats up to 80-90 ° C, the real heat transfer will be much lower. Hence the conclusion: take radiators with a margin of 80-100%. Simplified in our material and video:

Almost all types of batteries are offered in 2 versions - with side or bottom connection. Here, the choice depends on the method of laying pipes and the device of the connections. So, before installing, you need to consider the issue ...

About the methods of connecting radiators

The connection scheme must be thought out in advance, the position of the heater on the wall depends on it. Example: installing batteries with a bottom connection means installing a headset with taps, which takes up to 10 cm of space under the heater. Imagine that 2 lines of a two-pipe system are laid above the plinth, then with a low window sill, the radiator simply will not enter the niche.

Example two: you decided to make a replacement yourself - to remove an old cast-iron "accordion" in your apartment and install a modern appliance. The iron pipes of the wiring will not allow the implementation of the lower connection - only the lateral one. To put the radiator in the middle of the window, you will have to build up the liners made of polypropylene or metal-plastic.

Diagonal connection options: on the left is a diagram with a ball valve, on the right - with a thermal head

Battery Connection Methods:

1. Side versatile (diagonal). The coolant is supplied through the upper hole, exits the lower one from the opposite side, evenly flowing through the internal channels. Maximum heat transfer, the radiator works efficiently.
2. Side - both connections are connected from 1 side. Approximately 10% of thermal power is lost, since the far part of the battery warms up worse.
3. The lower versatile scheme is used in horizontal one-pipe systems of the Leningradka type. The efficiency of the device decreases by 10-20% depending on the pressure generated by the circulation pump.
4. The purely lower coolant supply is not inferior to the diagonal one due to the design feature - through the first vertical channel, the water rises to the upper zone of the radiator, and then diverges along the rest of the ducts and collects at the bottom.

Side-connected circuits are more often implemented in traditional systems - two-pipe or one-pipe (except for Leningrad), which are mounted openly. The lower connection is a more modern version, the pipes from the boiler are laid in the floor, leaving directly under the battery.

Diagram of one-sided connection of a radiator to a two-pipe and one-pipe system of an apartment building. Instead of the upper valve, you can put a thermostat with a head, instead of the lower one - a balancing valve

4 types of radiator fittings

When starting water heating, the system must be balanced, during operation, repair and flush the radiators. To solve these problems, the following shut-off and control valves are used:

• balancing valve;
• ball valve;
• thermostatic valve with thermal head;
• headset for bottom piping.

An important point. When installing radiators, always use taps with American women - straight and angled. The union nut connection allows the heater to be removed at any time without emptying the pipeline network.

On the left is a diagram of a one-way connection of a battery with a balance valve, on the right - a lower versatile (used when installing one-pipe horizontal wiring)

How to install radiator fittings correctly:

1. When connecting the heater to the centralized heating, install 2 ball valves, no balancing valve is needed. Option two: a valve with a thermal head can be provided on the supply line to automatically regulate the air temperature in the room.
2. Radiators in a private house are connected as follows: at the entrance there is a ball valve, at the exit there is a balancing valve. If you want to regulate the flow automatically, replace the inlet tap with a thermal head.
3. For bottom connection, use a special headset with a built-in balance valve from Danfoss, Herz Armaturen, Oventrop. There are models for installing a thermostat.

When replacing the battery in an apartment, do not forget to provide a bypass for the direct flow of water through the riser. Equip the last radiator of the individual heating network of a country house with 2 shut-off taps, you will not have to balance it.

With the bottom connection, the coolant flow is directed into the upper horizontal channel of the radiator

Battery location and height

Radiators should be installed in places of greatest heat loss:

• traditional location - under the window, in the middle of the skylight (when viewed vertically);
• in the corridor near the front door;
• on staircases;
• near cold walls of living rooms without window openings.

The drawing shows the minimum distances to the nearest structures. For efficient battery operation, it is better to increase them: the top and bottom indents - up to 10 cm, the back - up to 50 mm

Explanation. When the battery is installed in the window niche, the upward convection stream mixes with the cooled air from the window. If stained-glass windows are made in the room instead of the outer wall, it is better to install water or electric convectors into the floor.

If heating radiators are installed under windows, observe the following minimum spacing:

• from the outer wall - 2.5 cm;
• from the windowsill - 50 mm;
• from the floor - 60 ... 200 mm, depending on the type of the heater and the method of its connection.

Unlike aluminum and bimetallic batteries, the depth of steel panel radiators varies over a wide range - from 6 cm (type 10) to 160 mm (type 33). The thicker the battery, the more air it can let through and heat. This means that it is necessary to provide air supply from below and removal of the warm flow from above the heater. Wiring diagrams of steel panels of different types are shown in the drawing.

The mounting height of panel radiators depends on the specific type

Recommendation. We do not advise to completely sew up the radiator after installation, making 2 convection openings with grilles. You will lose all infrared heat flux, which is at least 20% of the battery power. But the air under the casing will heat up to 30-40 ° C, due to the temperature difference between the street and the niche, heat losses will increase.

Installation instructions

To hang and connect the battery to the heating pipes, prepare the following components and materials:

• hooks with plastic dowels for attaching the radiator to the wall - at least 3 pcs .;
• 2 foot (side plugs) with right-hand pipe thread, marked with the Latin letter D;
• 2 feet with left-hand thread, marking - S;
• 1 (Mayevsky crane) with a key;
• 1 plug;
• sealing silicone thread or flax;
• tap, balancing valve, thermostatic valve, headset - according to the diagram;
• polypropylene, metal-plastic or polyethylene pipes with an inner diameter of 10-15 mm for liners.

The number of fixings depends on the size of the heater. An aluminum battery up to 10 sections must be fixed on 3 hooks or special brackets - 2 on top, 1 on the bottom. In other cases, 4 mounts are used.

Steel panels are sold assembled with hanging brackets included. Floor-mounted heavy cast iron radiators are equipped with feet.

Types of wall and floor brackets used for mounting batteries

Of the tools you will need:

• an electric drill and a drill corresponding to the hardness of the wall;
• screwdriver or screwdriver;
• construction level;
• gas key;
• tape measure, pencil.

Pre-assembly

Radiator sections are pulled together by nipples - metal squeegees, on which left and right threads are cut (half the length). To connect, you need a long wrench with a nozzle for a nipple, in the household there is no such thing. Hence the advice: ask to twist the sections right in the store.

Assemble the sectional battery in the following order:

1. Clean the areas around the side holes.
2. Screw on the 4 feet from the ends, carefully tighten them with a gas wrench. Please note: plugs with a regular thread should be screwed into the right ends of the radiator, with a left thread - into the left (when looking at the front side of the product).
3. Close the unused bottom outlet with the supplied plug.
4. Using sealing material, pack and screw the Mayevsky cock into the upper channel.
5. In the remaining 2 holes, install the mating part of the American women, disconnected from the taps.

An important point. The element of the American woman with a union nut does not need to be wrapped inside the case until it stops. Otherwise, the nut will not move away from the edge and will not allow the valve itself to be attached. To screw in, you need a special internal key, but if you wish, you can do with powerful pliers.

After installing the American women, screw on the valves and tighten (by hand for now). Panel heaters do not require assembly, unless you have to install an air vent. Do not remove the film from the case - it will protect the coating from accidental damage.

Wiring diagram of the sectional radiator assembly

How to mark the radiator mount

We start with preparation - we remove interfering objects, tear off the old wallpaper (in their place you can glue a reflective foil screen), dismantle the old battery in case of replacement. Be careful not to cut the threads on the steel pipes with a grinder. It is better to clean it with a wire brush and unpack the coupling joint by unscrewing the nut.

Reference. If, for various reasons, the thread has become unusable, you will have to look for a set of pipe cutters and cut the turns on a new one. In open heating systems operating under atmospheric pressure, the use of compression couplings type GEBO is allowed.

How to make the correct markup for the battery:

1. Determine the middle of the window opening and mark it on the wall with a vertical line.
2. Having stepped back 7-10 cm from the windowsill, draw a horizontal line using a level. This line marks the position of the upper end of the radiator.
3. Measure the distance from the center of the assembled battery to the suspension points, lay it horizontally on both sides of the vertical line. The sectional heater can be attached to the wall and marks can be made in front of the two extreme joints.
4. Find out the size from the top panel to the radiator attachment point, set this distance down from the previous marks. Get the top drill points.
5. The points of the lower suspensions are easily determined: step back down another 50 cm - this is the standard center-to-center distance of the heaters. There are other sizes - 300, 600 mm and so on.

After the marking work, it is worth checking the distance from the attachment points to the floor, the best way is to attach the assembled battery to the wall

Before marking, be sure to check the horizontalness of the window sill. If it stands unevenly, and you hang the battery on a level, then from the side it will seem that it is the radiator that is fixed crookedly. Then you need to be guided by the slope of the window sill.

The second moment: in order for the air to leave through the Mayevsky tap, the heater is installed with a slight slope. The side of the device, where the air vent is located, rises literally by 1–2 mm, visually such a skew will remain invisible.

When replacing a radiator with a connection to existing pipes, you will have to measure their position relative to the window sill, then tie in height. How this is done, the wizard will show in the video:

The final stage

The final installation of heating radiators is carried out according to simple rules:

1. Drill holes, hammer in dowels and attach hangers. Hooks for sectional devices are screwed in, taking into account the smallest indentation of 25 mm.
2. Hang the battery on the brackets and try on the liners. For convenience, draw lines on the wall.
   
3. Remove the radiator and carry out preliminary work - punch furrows for hidden laying, connect the pipes to the highways, glue the reflective screen.
4. Finally, install the heater, connect the pipes and tighten the American ones.

   In the photo on the left - the side connection unit with a bypass, on the right - the bottom connection with hidden connections

Leave shut-off valves and valves open for successful filling of the system with heat carrier. The manual air vent must remain closed and is used when pumping water or antifreeze.

When replacing a central heating radiator in high season, the entire riser must be shut off. At the end of the installation, close the taps at the battery inlet, then supply water to the riser. When the noise of the coolant dies down, slowly open the upper tap first, then the lower one. from the battery.

How to hang a battery on an insulated wall

Sometimes homeowners insulate the outside walls from the inside with a layer of foam or 50 mm extruded polystyrene foam. When installing the radiator battery, a problem arises - the standard hooks are too short, and the longer ones experience a cantilever load and bend. It is clear that it is unrealistic to attach to the foam, only to the wall.

A simple solution is offered by our expert Vitaly Dashko in his video. The battery mounting technology is as follows:

1. We mark the attachment points according to the above instructions.
2. We take a wooden bar 5 x 5 cm (or according to the thickness of the insulation) 600 mm long or according to the size of the bracket for a steel radiator.
3. We cut out a vertical recess in the foam, insert a bar there and fasten it to the wall with any fasteners - dowels, anchors, dowels.
4. We put the heater on standard suspensions attached to the bars.

We are watching a video on installing a radiator on an insulated wall:

Conclusion

To install heating radiators with your own hands, you do not need to undergo any special training or have a specialized education. It is enough to remember the nuances of editing, watch a few videos from experienced craftsmen and you can get to work. The only caveat is that batteries should be securely fastened, especially cast iron ones. Settlement or breakage of the bracket will lead to leakage of the coolant, sometimes quite hot 😊.

Any modern batteries, whether aluminum, cast iron or bimetallic, are supplied with four open pipes for connecting to the heating main. In accordance with the design features of the wiring, a scheme for connecting the radiators with the supplied pipes is selected, and the remaining holes are closed with plugs or air vent valves.

In this article, we will explore the options for installing batteries and tell you which circuit is better in terms of heat transfer efficiency.

It is believed that the best results for your radiator can be obtained using a diagonal connection. In order to correctly implement this method, you need to connect the inlet pipe to one of the upper inputs, and the return pipe to the lower one from the opposite edge. Then the coolant will circulate along the optimal route, capturing the largest part of the surface of the heater.

This combination is especially effective if the radiator consists of a large number (more than 10) sections. All other types of connections will lose noticeably in this case.

Therefore, the diagonal connection is considered a reference, and all manufacturers indicate the parameters of their equipment with respect to this version of the heating device.

The disadvantages of this method include:

• high consumption of pipes in the system;
• the inability to hide communications in a wall or in a box;
• complex layout geometry;
• inconvenient installation.

A diagonal scheme is used in cases where the main requirement is maximum heat transfer, and considerations of aesthetics and design fade into the background. Due to the inefficiency and complexity of the wiring, this method of installing radiators is practically not used in multi-storey buildings.

Bottom connection

In contrast to the diagonal, the lower way of connecting the batteries does not allow optimizing the heating system in terms of performance, but it makes it possible to make the radiator almost invisible.

Such a connection (it is sometimes called Leningrad), due to the peculiarities of the passage of the coolant between the inlet and outlet collectors, reduces the efficiency in the system by 10-15%. Moreover, these losses become so tangible only in apartment buildings with a long highway.

If you plan to install a radiator in your own house (especially a one-story one), the lower connection diagram will be an excellent option.

The upper part of the battery warms up worse than the lower one, this becomes especially noticeable when the internal cavities are clogged or airy. In these cases, cleaning and air removal is required using Mayevsky taps.

Side scheme

Most often, radiators of the heating system, especially in apartment buildings, are mounted in a side pattern. Its essence lies in the fact that both lines approach the battery from one side.

Side connection advantages:

• high efficiency;
• convenient installation;
• savings on pipes;
• the possibility of organizing a bypass between the lines for the installation of control valves.

If you compare diagonal and side wiring, the advantage should be given to the latter, since the difference in efficiency is only a few percent, and the benefits of side connection are obvious.

The diagonal scheme starts to win if you need to connect a radiator with a large number of sections or arrange a series of several powerful batteries. A correct understanding of these features will help to optimally distribute the radiators in the system.

Radiator location

The radiator is best placed under a window. This well-known rule is explained very simply: it is there that the heating battery will create the best conditions that prevent cold air from entering the room.

In a city apartment, windows and doors are the main sources of heat loss. In private houses, as we have already noted, a roof and a floor are added to them. The battery under the windowsill will create a curtain of warm air, which, as you know, tends upward when heated, and will not let the cold inside.

If there are several windows in the room, it is better to distribute the radiators between them and connect them in series. Also, experts recommend putting several heating points in corner rooms.

The following tips will help you position the radiator correctly:

• The distance of the battery to the floor and the window sill should be at least 10 cm. Otherwise, its efficiency will decrease, and it will be inconvenient to clean under it;
• Do not deepen the radiator much towards the wall, it is better to leave a gap of about 5 cm;
• When decorative protective screens are used, the efficiency of radiators is reduced by 10-15%.
• From the point of view of heat transfer, aluminum radiators have an advantage, but in city apartments it is better to install bimetallic products.

And one more important point: it is forbidden to independently change the connection diagram of radiators, their connection to each other or to install shut-off valves in the absence of bypasses in apartment buildings. All alterations in the heating system must be coordinated with the Management Company.

Installing radiators

Self-installation of radiators will not cause problems in the heating system in the future, if you correctly fulfill all the requirements for such work and ensure the tightness of all connections. In addition, some types of batteries require careful handling: aluminum and bimetallic radiators have a rather soft outer casing that can be easily wrinkled upon impact.

The installation process is carried out in the following order:

1. Removing the old radiator(if necessary). Naturally, the heating line must be closed at the same time;
2. We mark the installation site... Radiators are usually hung on a special bracket that is attached to the wall. The fasteners in the kit are most often designed for concrete or brick walls. If you want to hang the radiator on a soft wall such as plasterboard, you need to use special wall plugs. Aluminum and bimetallic batteries will not create dangerous loads for such a wall, but it is better not to use the cast iron version here. The bracket must be installed so that the radiator is positioned according to the requirements described in the previous section;
3. Now you need collect battery... To do this, we screw the adapters included in the kit into all four mounting holes. Usually two of them are left-handed and two are right-hand, so care must be taken. Further, depending on the connection diagram, we plug the unused collectors, one with a Mayevsky tap, and the other with a special locking cap. All joints are carefully sealed;
4. To prevent water leakage in the joints we lay plumbing flax... It is better not to use fum tape here. Flax needs to be wound correctly: clockwise for right-hand threads, and in the opposite direction for left-hand threads. In this case, when screwing on the threads of the connected elements, the flax will not be knocked out from under them. For reliability, the connection can be additionally sealed with special means, for example, Unipak paste;
5. We fasten ball valves to the places where the main pipes are supplied... They will allow you to later remove the radiator for cleaning and maintenance, without stopping the operation of the entire system;
6. Now there is only hang the radiator on the bracket and connect the supply pipes to it. The joints are sealed according to the above algorithm.

So, we have considered all possible types of connections for heating batteries. If you are just planning a system structure for your own home, then you can choose the most suitable scheme. If you live in a city apartment, you do not have such freedom. In any case, understanding the principles and features of connecting radiators will allow you to independently service and install heating devices in your home.