Many owners of older houses are considering expanding their living space with an attic. However, they immediately wonder what to do if the roof is already covered, and the attic still needs to be insulated. In this case, the decision comes to the rescue to carry out insulation work from the inside.

Peculiarities

The process of insulating the attic from the inside cannot be called easy. To do this, you need to know the specifics of the roofing device, as well as figure out whether your existing roof is suitable for insulation. Indeed, not every attic can be converted into an attic area, especially if the roof is already covered.

There are three situations in which a roof can be made:

• There is only a ventilation gap between the rafters and the battens. In this case, the roof is considered absolutely unsuitable for insulation. You will have to completely disassemble the roof structure in order to insulate it.
• Between the crate and the rafters, a polyethylene film is laid, which acts as a vapor barrier. Such solutions can be considered optimal, and the roof is fully prepared for subsequent work on its insulation.
• A diffusion membrane is installed between the rafters and the battens. Option similar to the previous one. The presence of a waterproofing layer is evidence that the roof is prepared for insulation from the inside.

Thus, the main feature is the preparedness of the roof for further insulation.

Heaters

Thermal insulation of the roof of a private house, summer cottage, cottage can be performed using various means. There are liquid materials, elastic materials, and even those that have a relatively high density.

Before proceeding with the selection, be sure to pay attention to the roof structure. It often happens that not every material is universal, so it's better to play it safe. The simplest example is the insulation of gable and sloping roofs: if almost any insulation is suitable for a simple gable structure, then not all of them are suitable for a broken one.

If you do not consider liquid insulation, the rest are sold in two forms - in plates and in rolls. As you might guess, the slabs contain dense insulation, while the rolls are fibrous.

It should be noted that not all options available on the market are suitable for insulation from the inside... This is due to the fact that it is much more difficult to insulate the attic from the inside due to the existing rafters. This increases the need for leveling cold bridges.

You should consider the materials for internal thermal insulation in more detail.

Styrofoam

Ordinary foam is one of the cheapest materials. It is sold in ready-made slabs, which makes it easy to use. Despite the fact that foam is a low-cost thermal insulation solution, it has many advantages.

So, the foam is not hygroscopic - it absolutely does not absorb water and moisture. To increase the water-repellent characteristics, it is enough to treat it with a special agent., which will clog the pores on the surface, and water will simply flow down the foam plates.

It should also be borne in mind that the foam is very lightweight due to the presence of a large number of voids between the granules that make up it. This contributes to the fact that it will be possible to cope with insulation work alone. Lightness provides another advantage in that it lightens the load on the roof structure.

Polyfoam does not conduct heat well, as a result of which we can safely say that it perfectly insulates the attic. Ease of working with it is another significant advantage of the material: you can cut the material, cutting out pieces of the desired size, with an ordinary clerical knife.

However, there are also some disadvantages here. First, the foam does not "breathe" at all, which can cause condensation. Secondly, the foam is prone to spoilage by pests, in particular, rodents. Thirdly, it is impossible to decorate wooden floors with foam, as over time, the tree will shrink, and gaps will appear between the foam boards.

How to insulate the attic with foam is described in the next video.

Penoizol

Penoizol, or urea-formaldehyde foam, is a liquid version of foam. An insulating solution is prepared immediately before use. Its difference from many other assembly compounds, for example, polyurethane foam, is that it does not expand during hardening, retaining its original appearance and state.

The mass resembles white foam, similar in appearance to shaving foam.

Liquid foam is often used to insulate roofs and attics during the construction phase, but can also be applied after the roof has been laid. Among other things, it can be used to additionally insulate the walls and floor of the attic.

The vapor permeability of the material, like that of a dense analogue, is almost zero, which makes it imperative to take care of decent roof ventilation. However, the material does not conduct heat, therefore, it copes perfectly with its main function - heat insulation. So if you do all the work the right way, thermal insulation with penoizol will be a decent and budget solution.

Extruded polystyrene foam or polystyrene foam

Despite the fact that polystyrene and expanded polystyrene belong to the same group, the second is more practical. This is largely due to the specifics of the installation. So, expanded polystyrene covers the rafters, which is why better tightness is achieved. Expanded polystyrene boards are easily fixed to each other with glue. Due to the low weight, installation can be done independently.

The material has a long service life, while it does not rot and is not attacked by rodents. The only serious drawback is the flammability of the material. We'll have to take care of the additional insulation of the electrical wiring, because one spark can lead to a severe fire.

If no communications are provided to the attic, expanded polystyrene will be an excellent choice, especially considering that it can be covered with any finishing material. It is also compatible with wood, metal and all types of roofing.

Minvata

Mineral wool often acts as an alternative to penoplex. This material belongs to roll, which is conditioned by the convenience of laying the heat insulators supplied in this way. Mineral wool has a fibrous structure, which radically affects some of its properties.

So, mineral wool is an elastic material that is attached between the rafters. In this case, additional fasteners are not required, it is enough just to cut the slabs of cotton wool 2-3 cm wider than the portal into which the insulation will be inserted.

Rodents do not encroach on cotton wool, so you don't have to worry about the integrity of the insulating layer. Mineral wool, however, belongs to the category of eco-friendly insulation. Among other things, it guarantees excellent thermal insulation, while it does not absorb moisture, and even if it gets wet, it will dry out in record time. It is also better to use fibrous material if it is necessary to additionally soundproof the attic from the surrounding street noise.

Read more about insulating the attic with mineral wool in the next video.

Glass wool

Glass wool is one of the varieties of mineral wool, but the difference is obvious. First of all, it should be noted that the materials are made from different fibers. Fiberglass is used here. Thanks to this, the material is more elastic and durable. In addition, glass wool has the best sound-absorbing characteristics. At the same time, it is hydrophobic - it absorbs moisture well, but dries poorly, as a result of which, when wet, it quickly loses its operational properties.

Many people fear that the use of glass wool for thermal insulation purposes within a living space will lead to disastrous consequences. In fact, this is not the case. If you correctly carry out all the finishing work, then no harm to health will be caused. On the contrary, glass wool is even safer than penoplex because it does not burn.

However, the material requires care when laying it. All safety measures will need to be taken to protect the eyes, respiratory tract and skin from glass dust.

Stone wool

Among all the insulation wool, stone wool is more expensive than analogues, and all thanks to its special properties. Compared to others, it is itself safe and practically devoid of the disadvantages inherent in other samples. It is the most environmentally friendly of all, is not afraid of high temperatures, since it does not ignite, and also does not deform under the influence of heat.

Stone wool perfectly inhibits all extraneous sounds, while its sound-absorbing characteristics are an order of magnitude higher than that of other wool. Another advantage is the good vapor permeability of the material. It "breathes", so condensation cannot form on it.

Stone wool can last for a long time. Such good performance properties are due not only to the strength properties of the material, but also to its ability to resist mechanical stress. Even if you squeeze it, it will not deform.

Cotton wool is sold in the form of soft slabs that can be easily cut into the desired sizes when needed. The only existing drawback is the high price, but the material is worth the money.

Ecowool

Ecowool is very different from other wadding in the form of sale. If the rest of the analogs are supplied in rolls or plates, then the ecowool is first crushed and then applied by scattering the material using special equipment. It is believed that in this way it will better clog all existing cracks, forming a monolithic insulation coating.

There are two disadvantages. First, you need to apply ecowool using special tools. Secondly, the cost of the material cannot be called democratic either.

Polyurethane foam

Foamed polyurethane foam also needs to be applied using special devices, which are quite expensive.

To avoid unprofitable purchase expenses, it is easier to lease equipment - to rent it.

The use of the equipment and the application technology itself are rather complicated, therefore, when working with the material, it is necessary to have at least some experience and knowledge on this issue.

Polyurethane foam is most similar to polyurethane foam, since it has a similar principle of operation. It expands in the same way when it solidifies, completely closing all the cracks and gaps through which cold wind can penetrate or precious heat escape. After hardening, the material becomes monolithic and smooth. This feature indicates that it does not absorb moisture, so you can do without the construction of additional hydro and vapor barrier layers.

All this makes foamed polyurethane foam an ideal choice, regardless of what material the roof and floors are made of. The optimal solution when working with him is to invite a team of specialists, who will complete the installation in a few hours on their equipment, doing everything in compliance with the technology.

Penofol

Penofol is a one-of-a-kind foil insulation. It is produced in the form of foamed polyethylene plates, covered with an aluminum layer on one or both sides. Aluminum reflects heat back into the room, so heat loss is minimized.

However, it is important to ensure that the foil side is turned towards the interior of the room and not towards the outside during installation.

Penofol is absolutely safe for humans and animals, although it is not a natural material. Thanks to the aluminum coating, it does not conduct heat, which gives reason to assert the excellent thermal insulation properties of the material. Among other things, it may not be necessary to make a vapor barrier for this material, since with proper installation it does an excellent job with vapor barrier itself due to its special texture.

If you plan to operate the attic for permanent residence, then choosing Penofol, you will not regret it.

Room preparation

Having decided to insulate the attic from the inside, you first need to properly prepare the room itself for work. Keep in mind that not every attic is suitable for insulation. Check if the ceiling height is 2.5 m in more than 50% of the entire attic. If not, then you should not do insulation - it will still be impossible to live here.

Next, dismantle all existing cladding, exposing the rafters. The insulation will be installed either on top of them or between them. Check the condition of the roof, as well as the presence of vapor and waterproofing layers. Keep in mind that a roof that has leaks must first be repaired, and only after that you can proceed to insulation work.

It is important that they are in good condition, have no gaps, except for ventilation.

Vapor barrier

When creating an attic floor for winter living, especially if the winters in your area are harsh, the first step is to check for a vapor barrier. As a rule, it is done immediately when the roof is mounted, even if they do not plan to use the space under it as an additional room in the future. If there is no vapor barrier, then the roof will have to be redone from the outside, dismantling the roofing materials.... Alas, it is impossible to lay a vapor barrier layer from the inside, because it must lie between the rafters and the counter-lattice.

Various materials can be used to create a vapor barrier. All of them have their own advantages and disadvantages, as well as the specifics of combinations with insulation materials. All this must be borne in mind when moving on to insulation work, so it makes sense to dwell on the materials for vapor barrier in more detail.

In addition, it will help you make the right choice if the roof of your house does not yet have a vapor barrier.

Polyethylene film

Despite the cheapness of the material, many builders strongly discourage its use. This is due to the fact that it is unsuitable for creating a vapor barrier layer in Russian realities. The material does not "breathe" at all: it does not let in not only moisture, but also air, and this creates circulation problems and, accordingly, a greenhouse effect. So, the condensate cannot evaporate and, flowing down, falls on the thermal insulation.

Therefore, if in your house the vapor barrier is nevertheless made using plastic wrap, refuse to buy water-absorbing heaters, for example, glass wool.

Over time, the film tends to break down and crack, so after a short period of time you will still have to completely disassemble everything in order to replace your fragile material.

Glassine

Glassine is suitable for both steam and waterproofing, which is why it has received universal recognition. However, we will have to act in two directions. Firstly, a layer of glassine will need to be laid between the roof and the counter-lattice, and secondly - on the insulation from the side of the room. If all work is done correctly, this guarantees reliable protection and an optimal microclimate in the attic. Above, between the roofing and the counter-batten, a double layer of glassine should be laid... Only then can the optimal effect be achieved.

Glassine is more needed to protect the insulation from moisture, so anyone can be chosen as the insulation material. Try to choose options that do not deform under the influence of temperature changes, and are also not susceptible to rodent attack. Both cotton options and penoplex are perfect.

Roofing material

Roofing material has been used as a vapor barrier since the times of the USSR, so in old houses you can find just such a material between the roof and the rafters. Nevertheless, if possible, such a layer will need to be dismantled... This is due to the fact that roofing material is a rotting material, and in accordance with the norms it cannot be used for waterproofing and vapor barrier in buildings with a long service life.

If it is decided to leave the roofing material, then you should not expect good vapor barrier properties from it. For this it is better to lay an additional layer of special vapor barrier material, at least the same plastic wrap.

It should be borne in mind that condensation can accumulate on the roofing felt from the inside, which will lead to the insulation getting wet. So, if the insulation is temporary (for example, it is carried out in winter, and in the spring it is planned to redo everything), then foam can also be combined with roofing material.

Izospan

Isospan material consists of polypropylene. It belongs to the most recommended for the construction of a vapor barrier due to the fact that it was developed only for these purposes.

Izospan collects condensate and further prevents it from getting on the insulation. The double-sided texture of the material is responsible for this. On the one hand, it is smooth, and on the other, a little rough. On the rough side, condensation drops are trapped and evaporated. With the help of isospan, not only the roof is vaporized, but also the walls of the attic.

Depending on the properties of isospan, the markings differ. The most expensive, but also materials with energy saving effect FB, FS, FD, FX are considered effective... They have a foil-clad coating that reflects heat back into the room, thereby virtually eliminating heat loss. At the same time, the special texture still prevents condensation from rolling down and spoiling the insulation.

Waterproofing membrane

You should not attribute to waterproofing membranes all the same properties that are inherent in specialized vapor barrier films. Indeed, both of them collect and evaporate condensate, but the main task of waterproofing membranes is to protect the house from moisture, not steam. In addition, waterproofing membranes have a wider range of applications, from insulating attics and basements to protecting swimming pools.

Waterproofing membranes are available in different types. There is a diffusion, superdiffusion, and also anti-condensation, which is more suitable for a vapor barrier role than others. If, after taking apart the sheathing material, you find one of these membranes, consider yourself very lucky.

You can lay any insulation without fear that it will get wet and quickly lose its quality. In addition, the microclimate in the attic will be excellent.

Penofol

Penofol is both an insulating and a vapor barrier material. However, it can only be laid when a waterproofing membrane is found between the roof and the rafters.

The reflective foil surface will itself collect condensation and aid evaporation, but the other “bare” side must be well protected from moisture. Only in this case, the variety will cope with both steam and thermal insulation.

Material consumption

The calculation of the material is made even at the stage of inspection of the roof for damage. It is important to take into account the pitch between the rafters and the distance between the vapor barrier and the interior space. The number and thickness of the slabs depends on the internal space: whether the thermal insulation will be laid in one layer or in several. The size of the slabs depends on the distance between the rafters.

Please note that if the step between the rafters is more than 60 cm, then it will be necessary to independently prepare an additional crate in order to make the fixing of the thermal insulation possible.

As for sprayed insulation, then in this case it will be necessary to calculate the volume. Previously, it will be necessary to clarify such data as the estimated thickness of the insulating layer, the perimeter of the rooms and the height of the walls, as well as the density of the insulation. We must not forget about the presence of windows and doors. It is best to use a special calculator.

Insulation scheme

Since when insulating the attic, the roof is mainly insulated, it makes sense to consider the scheme for laying layers only for it.

Starting from the outside, the cake looks like this:

• The roofing material is located on top, which is not touched. Under it are the lathing and counter-lathing, which serve as a frame.
• Next comes a layer of hydro and vapor barrier, which is also the original one.
• A layer of insulation is laid under the waterproofing. Depending on the width of the step between the rafters, an additional sheathing can be built here.
• A vapor barrier layer is attached from the side of the room, protecting the insulation.
• In conclusion, the finishing is carried out.

How to insulate with your own hands?

To insulate the attic with your own hands from the inside, you need to keep in mind the layout of the layers one after another, and also follow the following step-by-step instructions:

• It is necessary to retreat a little from the existing waterproofing layer, leaving an air gap. This will allow the insulation to "breathe".
• After that, the insulation is mounted. Depending on the material, it can be laid between the rafters or on them, as well as sprayed on. How it is necessary to handle this or that insulation material is written in the instructions for it.
• Next, a vapor barrier film is installed. If the gap between it and the insulation is possible, then the abutment to the walls, ceiling and, in the case of the attic, to the floor must be airtight. Otherwise, condensation will form on the side of the film that is turned towards the insulation, and this should not be so.
• At the last stage, finishing is done. You can choose from many options, but usually plasterboard, lining or MDF boards are purchased.

• it is better to buy wadded heaters not in rolls, but in mats, so they will not need time to "lay down";
• for floor insulation, you need to choose foam or other inexpensive material;
• the insulation does not need additional fastening, but if anything, you can use nails, adhesive tape or a construction stapler for this.

An attic is a landscaped attic that is often used as a living room or additional technical space. It differs in that it requires reinforced thermal insulation, since it has a large contact area with a cold atmospheric environment.

Depending on the purpose of using the attic, heaters are chosen that differ in the degree of thermal conductivity, density, and flammability. Let's figure out the best way to insulate the attic so that it turns from a cold attic into a room suitable for living or storing things.

No matter how large the room is, there is always a need for one more room - a bedroom for guests, a games room, a gym, or just a convenient storage room.

According to regulatory documents, the attic is a room formed by a facade and roofing. According to sanitary standards, the distance from the floor to the line of intersection of the wall with the roof should be at least 1.5 m, and to the ceiling - 2.5 m. In this case, a section with a "high" ceiling (2.5 m or more) should occupy 50 % of the total area of ​​the attic.

Obviously, in private housing construction there are deviations from the standards. For example, the configuration of the attic space can be influenced by factors such as the shape and size of the roof: houses with a high-raised roof have higher mansard ceilings, but the floor area is narrower.

However, with all the advantages of an additional comfortable room, there are nuances that increase the cost of construction and finishing work:

• installation of windows;
• hydro and thermal insulation.

The last point is also important because literally everything will have to be insulated: the floor, gables, walls, often consisting of two parts - front and roof. At the same time, the same requirements are imposed on thermal insulation materials as for insulation for living quarters. In addition to suitable technical characteristics, they must be absolutely safe.

An example of how the shape and height of the roof can affect the size of the attic - therefore, the peculiarities of the under-roof space must be taken into account when planning living space

Overview of thermal insulation materials for the roof

Today, you can find everything on the market: from the long-established glass wool to natural and foil-clad materials, which are so far less commonly used in practice. Consider the best way to insulate the walls and floor of the attic from the inside, so that the attic room becomes warm, and in the near future there is no need to make repairs.

Option # 1 - glass wool

Glass wool has gained popularity due to its low cost, so if you want to save on thermal insulation, you can use roll mats or slabs more convenient for installation. The raw material for the production is specially purified quartz sand and waste from the glass industry.

In addition to affordable cost and light weight, the material has the following advantages:

• elasticity, allowing you to lay slabs or mats with a snug fit to each other and the rafters;
• flexibility, useful when insulating difficult areas of the roof;
• unattractiveness to rodents, which is explained by the absence of natural materials in the composition.

However, there are also enough disadvantages. For example, they include high hygroscopicity, requiring the use of a vapor barrier on the inside and ventilation to evaporate moisture from the outside.

Because of its fragility, fiberglass is destroyed, and the smallest particles of it are spread in the air, creating a dangerous environment for health. In addition, dubious companies use formaldehyde as a binder in production, so it is better to use a more expensive but safer material.

Option # 6 - sprayed polyurethane foam

Spraying foam insulation on the inside of the roof is an excellent opportunity to create seamless, durable insulation without cold bridges and joints that require filling. One of the highest quality "dusting agents" is polyurethane foam, which creates an effective thermal insulation layer.

Advantages of sprayed insulation:

• thermal conductivity coefficient - 0.03 W / m × ° С and less;
• optional use of a vapor barrier;
• good adhesion to various surfaces;
• lack of preliminary preparation;

The thin but dense layer created by the hardened polyurethane foam is also an excellent soundproofing protection, which is important for the attic used as a bedroom.

It is a known fact that in Russia at least 5 months a year (in the northern regions - all 8), a heating system works in any living room of a house. And in the open air at this time - a tangible cold. And, if we are talking about the attic, which has the largest contact area with the open atmosphere, then it is worth taking it seriously. Indeed, in winter, there is a serious temperature difference on both sides of the roof and the gables of the attic, because of which the heat flow always moves to the source of the cold - outside. And the task of insulating the attic is to stop this flow and minimize heat loss, for the purpose of which materials with low thermal conductivity are used, in simple terms, heaters.

But it's not that simple! And therefore, first of all, it is important to decide which insulation is best for the attic - based on the materials of its manufacture, the planned operation and the expected internal temperature. With us you can easily figure it out!

Requirements for attic insulation

So what is the best insulation for a mansard roof? It all depends on what exactly you expect from it, because for thermal insulation of the attic of baths and saunas, where fire-safe chimneys pass, it is difficult to come up with something better than basalt insulation that can withstand up to 1000 ° C, but for warming an ordinary attic of a summer house, this is a losing option: everyone will be eaten by mice. But what do you need?

Each material has its own valuable properties and its disadvantages. When choosing a material for insulating an attic, most people are interested in such aspects as:

1. Thermal insulation qualities.
2. Profitability.
3. Durability.
4. Ease of installation.
5. Water repellent properties.
6. Noise isolation
7. Versatility

But let's approach this issue from a professional perspective. Of course, the most valuable quality is still the ability of the insulation to retain heat:

The second important point: is it possible to insulate the sloping walls of the attic and the floors with the same insulation. Therefore, pay attention: if the name of any insulation contains the word "universal", then it can be used both for insulation of the roof and for walls, floors and ceilings. For finishing the attic - this is the best option: we buy the material we like and immediately finish the walls, gables, and the floor. Quickly, and less problematic - now all insulation will have the same properties and will serve the same long time.

And now about the absorption of sounds. But why should the roof have soundproofing, because there are no neighbors behind it, no stomping of feet? Let's just say: those in whose house a metal roofing (profile, metal tile), and it rained at least once, do not have such questions. It is clear that a non-residential attic can still be left without soundproofing, but when arranging a residential attic, it is important to understand that comfort is, first of all, silence.

Also, the choice of insulation for the attic directly depends on what its supporting structure is made of: reinforced concrete, metal or wood. And the more combustible the material of the same rafters, the less combustible the insulation should be, so that later the "bohemian" space does not flare up like a match.

And, finally, for an attic insulation, due to the presence of constant water vapor in the room, the most valuable quality is still hydrophobicity:

And now about what kind of insulation is most suitable for the attic roof of your particular house.

How is the attic insulated today?

The most popular materials for attic insulation are mineral wool and fiberglass-based insulation, and newer and so far little studied in everyday life - ecowool, foil plates and natural materials.

Glass wool: both want and prick

Fiberglass wool is one of the most inexpensive options. Its installation is simple, there is no toxicity in a closed form for humans, and the absence of organic matter makes such a heater unattractive for small rodents. And most importantly, glass wool has a second degree of fire safety, which is a lot.

The only significant drawback is fine glass dust, which gets on the mucous membranes of the eyes and causes damage, and the skin begins to itch a lot. Those. during such work, one cannot do without special closed clothing, gloves, a respirator and glasses with rubber elements. After installation work, the clothes will have to be destroyed - no washing will save it. Note that those who, through negligence or stupidity, have worked with glass wool with their bare hands, then bypass it all their lives.

Mineral wool: priority is warm

Mineral wool is much more flexible in this regard. It consists of synthetic fibers and small chips from stone, clay and much more. Fiberglass may also be present in it, but already a little. Due to its light weight, excellent vapor permeability and low hygroscopicity, this material can hardly be overestimated. On sale you will find it both in the form of rolls and in the form of plates, in various sizes and thicknesses - from 50 to 100 mm.

The heat in mineral wool is retained due to its multilayer structure, in the layers of which air is retained. Moreover, this insulation is also paronizayem, i.e. "Breathes". And unlike foam, small rodents do not start in mineral wool.

Of the minuses, it can be noted that mineral wool quickly collects dust and is not resistant to moisture, and therefore its waterproofing must be thought out especially carefully. As for the fire safety of mineral wool, quartz sand is even capable of holding back fire if such a nuisance happens.

The most popular brands of mineral wool for attic insulation are Isover and Ursa.

Isover as a heater is valuable not only for its thermal insulation qualities - it has high noise absorption. That is why, if you are going to equip the attic of your house for a nursery or home cinema, then opt for this insulation. Then your evenings will be calm!

Where does this property come from? It's all about the specially created air lenses of this insulation. And, as you remember from the school physics course, materials of different densities together significantly impede the passage of sound vibration. For example, after insulating a roof with Isover metal tiles, the sound from the rain will no longer be heard.

But Ursa is supplied with insulation for sale in a comfortable soft roll. As the manufacturer promises, Ursa heaters are made from a natural composition - fiberglass and quartz sand. There is nothing harmful or dangerous for humans and the environment. And at the same time it perfectly stores heat, absorbs noise, and does not like the taste of insects and rodents due to its inorganic origin.

And mineral wool serves for all 50 years, while without signs of any rot, flowering or decay.

Basalt wool: an environmentally friendly option for mineral

The safest and most well-known type of mineral wool is basalt. Let us remind you that basalt is a natural material, a stone that is melted in the factory and turned into fine fibers. Yes, this insulation really does not burn up to 1000 ° C - after all, this is the melting point of the stone. But mice really adore him, although at such a height as the attic, it's easier to deal with them, don't you agree?

Among the popular brands of basalt wool is Rocklight: excellent heat and sound insulation, non-flammability, ease of installation. In addition, the price of this insulation is pleasantly surprising, because the quality is high enough. The fire safety of this insulation is at a height: the ability to withstand for some time even a temperature of + 1000C.

And Rocklight is also quite durable, does not cake, and its vapor-permeable properties are preserved throughout the entire service life. In this insulation fungus never starts, the walls "breathe", which is important for the attic.

Extruded polystyrene foam: the lightweight solution

Extruded polystyrene foam is attractive to many for its simplicity and ease of installation, as well as the absence of itching on the skin. No discomfort! The insulation process itself looks like you are putting together a puzzle. But the price of this insulation, of course, will surprise you a little - after all, the cost is low.

But independently, the attic is rarely insulated with expanded polystyrene alone: ​​this material is more valuable in combined insulation. As in this example:

Styrofoam: cheap, cheerful and risky

One of the most inexpensive roof insulation materials. First of all, polystyrene is good because it can be easily installed with your own hands, without calling any masters, and it is especially convenient for inclined walls of the attic or roof.

Foam has several density levels. That is why this material has good soundproofing, and therefore, you can forget about the loud noise of drops knocking on the metal roof for a long time. Styrofoam is also good because it doesn't shrink over time.

The stiffness of the foam used depends on how strong the material will be for compression and bending. But the denser the material, the greater its flammability, therefore, for roof insulation, do not seek to choose the toughest insulation - you will not walk on them.

PPU: reaching the most difficult to reach places

When the attic is insulated from the inside with sprayed polyurethane foam - polyurethane foam - housing under the roof will be completely residential. And, I must say, this is really excellent thermal insulation, and many other qualities:

1. PPU has excellent performance in terms of heat protection: only 2.5 cm will protect the attic from cold sweat, just like 8 cm of mineral wool. Only expanded polystyrene can be called quite close in thermal conductivity to this material, which copes with its task almost twice as bad.
2. Here's another valuable advantage: when insulating with polyurethane foam, you don't need a frame or special fasteners. And the most valuable thing is that PPU has no seams, then when seams are always cold bridges.
3. Also, if hoods and chimneys pass through the attic, around which it is especially difficult to create a seal, give preference to this insulation. The same applies to any complex shapes and surfaces.
4. And finally, what do you think is the most afraid of the attic insulation? Of course, moisture! And it is not so easy to defend against it right in the under-roofing pie. Unless, of course, we are not talking specifically about PPU, which does not damp in any way and calmly contacts any roofing material. And at the same time it is also vapor-permeable!
5. Also, polyurethane foam has excellent adhesion to any surface.
6. Unlike expanded polystyrene, which is close to polyurethane foam in its thermal insulation properties, this material is also vapor-permeable, i.e. "Breathes". What is a valuable quality for the attic!
7. Polyurethane foam is not eaten by mice, insects do not grind, it does not rot or mold.

The only disadvantage of such insulation is that it is impossible to spray PPU independently, without equipment. You will either have to hire an entire construction team or get a competent contractor.

Natural wool: sustainable, but problematic

Yes, in some areas, especially in the Caucasus, natural wool and felt are actively used as roofing insulation. And these are quite acceptable materials: wool felt is listed in SNiP as a vapor-permeable building material. And its insulation coefficient is the same as that of basalt insulation - 0.045 W / mS.

Most often, such wool is put in bags, and they are already in dense rows along the roof. But sometimes it is used in a roofing pie as a full-fledged insulation, pre-treated to prevent an unpleasant odor.

Wool in Caucasian areas is very cheap due to the large number of sheep. Therefore, it is easier to insulate with this material, which is in surplus, than to acquire ready-made and expensive ones. And the disadvantages are quite significant: these are insects and rodents, which simply adore everything natural.

Ecowool: simple and sustainable

Another very interesting novelty is the so-called ecowool. They make it from newspaper waste, finely cut and processed so that it does not burn or rot later. And as for the fear of many citizens that newspapers contain dangerous lead - this technology has long been a thing of the past.

True, it is unlikely that it will be possible to insulate the attic with an ecowool with your own hands - construction firms are engaged in this novelty.

Now we come to practice. And the last question that you will ask yourself when buying the chosen insulation for the attic is to take it in mats or rolls?

Which is more convenient: rolls or mats?

In fact, the form in which this or that insulation is sold plays a big role for many ordinary people. Someone prefers to work only with plates as more convenient, but for the majority it is the rolls that seem rational: rolled and fastened, what could be easier?

Let's just say: it is really convenient to work with roll material. They rolled it out to the desired length, cut it off, and twisted the cut piece. They brought a new skein to the right place, rolled it out again, straightened it and secured it. The roll insulation is also convenient in that with a standard distance between the rafters of 61 cm, the roll can be easily cut in half with an ordinary knife, and its halves will ideally fit into their niches - just roll them out:

But in practice, for many, packaging of rectangular plates turns out to be less convenient, after which most of the waste remains. But it is easier to transport, and the insulation in it does not bend, as in a roll, which is a critical question for many materials:

And finally: when buying insulation, be sure to pay close attention to the integrity of the packaging, otherwise you will not end up with problems later. Insulation packaging should be completely sealed, slightly compressed, without a single scratch or torn film. This is the only way to prevent moisture from getting to the insulation before installation.

Now imagine what happens to the insulation in poor-quality packaging: moisture and water vapor penetrates into the material through holes and slots (and this good is everywhere), the insulation gets wet in places and changes its geometry. On the spot, you unpack the roll or slabs and proceed with the installation, and then it turns out that the swollen and heavy insulation does not fit in any way, the cracks are visible even to the naked eye. Having somehow suffered, cover all this stuff with clapboard or drywall - and that's it! After all, we do not leave finished insulated walls without finishing even for several hours - why? And as a result, the not dried insulation turns out to be in a closed and dark space - an ideal place for the development of mold. The consequences are usually not at all pleasing to the eye, and you will recognize their presence by an unpleasant odor from under within a few weeks.

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Whether you are building a new structure or remodeling a roof for additional rooms, you need to take care of how to make high-quality insulation. If the roof is already covered, all work from the inside is carried out taking into account the geometry of the roof and the climatic characteristics of the region. In this material, we have collected all the necessary information about possible methods of insulation and will provide you with practical recommendations from professionals.

A well-insulated attic can serve as a bedroom or even a children's room.

Useful information and video on how to insulate an attic for winter living

A lot depends on the high-quality insulation of the attic roof. If you plan to use this room during the winter, you need to think carefully about what materials to use for thermal insulation. Another important aspect is the construction of the roof.

The peculiarity of the under-roof space is not only in geometry, in winter it is colder here than in other rooms, and in summer it is hotter. To maintain the optimum temperature, roofers recommend forming a multi-layer "cake" of waterproofing under the roofing, and.

An important point! With a large heat loss through the roof in winter, the snow on it begins to melt and forms an ice crust. And water, as you know, looks for any, even the smallest loophole. So an ice roof is bad, there is a good chance that you will get a leak.

The need for waterproofing work

All fibrous heat insulators, one way or another, absorb moisture. It can form due to blemishes in the roofing or the formation of condensation inside the room due to temperature differences. Moisture trapped in the insulation adversely affects its condition. To prevent this is the task of the waterproofing layer.

Modern construction technologies involve the use of membrane materials. They prevent the formation of condensation and at the same time do not allow external moisture to pass through.

The attic in the house is a space with great potential. It has a spacious area to serve as a place for storing things or seasonal vacations, and a non-trivial shape that can become the basis for the embodiment of design ideas. It is a big omission not to use its opportunities.

You can organize the space of the attic floor in different ways. But the most rational of them is the arrangement for living quarters. Self-insulation of the attic from the inside will help with this. The choice of material and the order of work will also not be difficult after a detailed consideration of the features of the materials and the process of insulation.

Why insulate?

A good, warm attic has a number of advantages over a non-insulated floor:

• Can be used as living quarters all year round.
• An uninteresting form is suitable for interior decoration in an unusual style.
• The upper floor, due to its isolation and uniqueness, can serve as a bedroom, study or children's room. Of course, children especially like it in the attic.
• Skylights are designed differently from ordinary ones and let in a lot of light. This is useful if a children's room is located there, and is also suitable for other purposes, because natural lighting is always better than artificial.
• When transferring the function of any room in the house to the attic floor, a lot of useful space is freed up.

At the same time, the insulation of the attic, despite the name, also works in the opposite direction. Summer stuffiness and heat concentrated under the roof of the house are not the best companions of comfort. To prevent the air in the attic floor from heating up because the sun heats the roof all day long, thermal insulation is needed.

Many people forget about this, choosing to insulate the attic from the inside, and instead of a room for all-season use, they get an option for wintering. It is impossible to be there in summer because of the high temperatures and stuffy air.

Why insulate the attic is clear: increase the usable area of ​​the house by converting the attic into a living space. What type of room this will be depends on the individual needs of the family. There may be a greenhouse, a dining room (which is very convenient, since it will be as easy as shelling pears to arrange a hood, and the smells of food will definitely not penetrate into other rooms), a children's room, a bedroom, an office, a room for pets, a dressing room, a guest room.

Roof design options

The convenience of the attic for living largely depends on its size and the shape of the roof, which forms the walls and ceiling of the room. The form also affects the complexity of the insulation procedure. The type of roof is laid during construction in accordance with the design of the building.

In total, there are about a dozen types of roofs, to one degree or another, suitable for arranging an attic:

• Shed. The slope can be on the left or right side. This determines the layout of the future house, designed in accordance with building codes. This type of roof is not the best, but also not the most inconvenient option for a living space. At least one half of the attic is suitable for a person to fit in it at full height and can move freely. The second can be reserved for organizing storage systems or a bed.

• Gable or gable. It is widespread in both symmetrical and asymmetrical versions. In an attic of this type, all free space is concentrated in the place where the roof has the highest point. There is less of it under the slopes, and if the slope is gentle, then most of the area will not be used.
• Hip. The roof has four slopes: two in the shape of a trapezoid, two in the shape of beveled triangles.

• Shatrovaya. A type of hip roof, which is erected over the base of a square-shaped house. All 4 slopes in this case have the same form of beveled triangles.
• Semi-hip. This is a kind of gable roof, in which, for practical purposes, the side slopes on the pediment are cut off. It is more convenient for arranging the attic floor than the previous two options.
• Slightly less common is the half-hip hipped roof. Its gable parts are formed by windows, and under them there are slopes.

• Mansard roof. It is recognized as optimal, since it is the closest to the cherished U-shaped living space. Such a roof does not impose any restrictions on the arrangement of functional areas inside the attic floor. It can easily accommodate a child's room, which can later be converted into his own office or bedroom.
• Broken or multi-plated. These are options for complex design ideas. It is impossible to say unequivocally how suitable they are for arranging a warm attic, since their shape can be very diverse. But those species that are most similar to the U-shape are definitely suitable for this purpose.

Load calculation according to SNiP

When it comes to insulating the attic, it is necessary to consider several types of SNiP: general rules for the arrangement of residential premises and the rules for choosing materials for thermal insulation of a residential building.

• Calculation of the load on the supporting structures of the building. The own weight and thickness of materials, decorative finishes, interior arrangement of the attic significantly increase the load on the supporting structures in any type of house. The maximum permissible load for each option is different, but the planned changes should not exceed it.

• Correct assessment of the structures being built. For the reconstruction of a house, which in many cases will include the conversion of an attic into a residential attic, legal grounds are needed. Each case is different.

In one, if the documents are drawn up correctly and the construction of the house occurs immediately with the attic, it can be redone in any way without unnecessary red tape.

In a private house, the construction of an attic depends only on the height of the floors and compliance with the load norms on the supporting structures; in an apartment building, it is important to take into account its status. If it is an architectural monument, the construction of the attic will not work.

• Compliance with sanitary and hygienic standards. They regulate the minimum height of the attic room, the degree of its illumination and insolation - protection from ultraviolet rays.
• The number of floors in the house. Building codes allow a maximum of three floors, while basement and basement rooms that protrude more than a meter above the ground are also considered. If, after insulating the attic, it becomes a full-fledged living space and the fourth floor in the house, then such a construction will be considered illegal. In theory, it should be demolished.

• The degree of fire resistance. It is measured in minutes and in most positions is:

1. for the lower floors 60 minutes,
2. for the attic - 30, since the fire spreads upward and the risk of fire on the lower floors from the attic is less.

When arranging an attic, especially a wooden one, for living quarters, you need to comply with all the requirements: treat the wood with special impregnations that prevent the spread of flame, choose fire-resistant materials, and lay high-quality communications.

It is also important to calculate which layer is needed when using different materials. As a rule, the recommended thickness and density of foam, mineral wool, polyurethane foam or foam glass is indicated by the manufacturer or GOST for a specific material.

Review of materials: pros and cons

The construction market offers the materials themselves in abundance. In this case, only insulation is not enough, since the technology implies the layer-by-layer use of materials for various purposes:

• Roof and wall material. These are the elements that form the basis of the attic space. The walls of the house can be wooden, brick, block. For the roof, choose profiled sheets, ondulin, slate, metal or ceramic tiles.
• Bars for counter-lattice. The timber is used wooden, mounted on the rafters. A counter grill is necessary to create air circulation so that condensation does not form under the roof sheet material.

• Windproof and waterproofing. Used polypropylene and polyethylene films, various non-woven roll materials. In priority films with anti-condensation coating. They are laid with an overlap of 20-25 cm between the beams and the roofing material, glued together.
• Thermal insulation. Various types of insulation, which are laid at a distance of 25 cm from the waterproofing film under slate or tiles, and 45-50 cm under sheet materials.
• Vapor barrier. It is necessary on the outside of the insulation to protect it from vapors and moisture contained in the indoor air. Various film and foil materials are used to prevent the formation of condensation and the greenhouse effect.

• Internal lathing. Decorative finishing of the ceiling and walls. In some cases, when the height of the roof allows, you can "hem" the ceiling. The air space between it and the roof will make the thermal insulation more effective.

If there are no questions with most of the points, then the choice of insulation is the most crucial moment. Its choice is wide, which is both a plus and a minus, since it is necessary to evaluate a large number of options.

Insulate the attic:

• sawdust;
• mineral wool;
• ecowool;
• basalt type of cotton wool;
• polyurethane foam plates (PPU);
• extruded foam;
• penoplex;
• foam glass;
• construction foam;
• foil-clad and heat-reflecting material.

The use of sawdust for thermal insulation is a proven and effective method. It is cheap, the mixtures are prepared with their own hands, but with the availability of alternative materials, the method is already outdated. A lot of time is spent, working with sawdust is clean, but unpleasant, and the flooring will not differ in durability. Environmental cleanliness in this case is probably not at hand, because wood fibers are an excellent breeding ground for organisms.

Ordinary styrofoam is also a thing of the past. It has a number of advantages: low weight, low price, ease of installation alone, rather long service life, good insulating properties. But the disadvantages are still significant: fragility and fragility, retains moisture inside, a suitable environment for the reproduction of living organisms, a thick layer of material is needed.

Mineral wool is a more topical insulation material. Its advantages:

• high coefficient of thermal insulation;
• resistant to moisture, chemicals and alkalis;
• provides good ventilation in the room;
• helps to increase noise insulation;
• high coefficient of fire resistance;
• long service life;
• strength;
• safety for residential use.

Disadvantages:

• With poor organization of the waterproofing and vapor barrier layers, falling on the material of precipitation, mineral wool loses several percent of its thermal conductivity.
• Capable of accumulating dust over time.
• High-quality mineral wool is quite expensive, but it is environmentally friendly. There are often fakes on the market in which the formaldehyde content exceeds the norm. They are harmful to health and are prohibited for use in residential premises.

Ecowool, in essence, is cellulose fibers in three quarters of the composition, and the remainder accounts for substances that allow the use of cellulose as a building material - borax and boric acid. They increase the fire resistance of cotton wool, prevent the appearance of microorganisms, fungi, and rot.

The advantages include the good ability of the insulation to keep warm in the room, not impede ventilation, high-quality insulating properties, natural and safe raw materials in the basis of ecowool.

The material also has a minus, and significant. Ecowool is not produced in the form of plates or sheets, it is a loose fiber that must be applied wet using special equipment. And to work with the equipment, you will need qualified installers.

In addition to ecowool, foreign manufacturers also offer other types of insulation based on plant fibers: ecolen and cotton fabric insulation.

Another type of cotton wool is basalt. It is related to the mineral. Since its components are present in the composition, the basis of the material is basalt rock. Basalt imparts unique qualities to the material.

Its advantages:

• components of organic origin without formaldehyde and harmful resins;
• thermal insulation qualities, noise insulation;
• does not ignite, does not support combustion;
• biostable;
• the plates are convenient and easy to use;
• serves for tens of years.

Disadvantages:

• high cost of insulation per square meter with basalt slabs;
• absorbs moisture well.

The third type of cotton wool - glass wool - has similar characteristics. It is more convenient to use, since the material is rolled.

Extruded foam or extruded polystyrene foam combines the qualities and advantages of mineral boards and conventional foam, thanks to a special production technology.

Its performance is mostly positive:

• lightweight, but durable - this allows you to use it for insulation in large quantities, to work with it just alone;
• closed pores of the material are moisture resistant;
• easy to cut into fragments, it is unbreakable and does not crumble;
• does not arouse interest, as a habitat, either in fungi or in rodents;
• low cost.

The disadvantages include: vapor permeability, low fire resistance.

The group of new generation gas-filled plastics also includes polyurethane foam (PPU). Its advantages make the material one of the best for insulating an attic floor: it is lightweight, moisture-resistant and fire-resistant, does not accumulate dust, does not attract living organisms, and is very durable.

There are two types: sheet and spray. Sheet material is very convenient in that it does not crumble in the process of cutting fragments and closely fits the part to the part. The sprayed type of protection creates a monolithic layer under the roof, due to which it is not afraid of precipitation and cold ingress. And also it has good adhesion to various surfaces, is resistant to the appearance of microorganisms and allows you to carry out installation work as soon as possible.

The sprayed material provides better thermal insulation and helps to muffle extraneous sounds, but it has two serious drawbacks. Firstly, for application, you will need an expensive service from professionals with special equipment. Secondly, it is so dense that it "does not breathe." Humid and stuffy air will accumulate in the room if additional ventilation was not possible.

It is advisable to use both types of PPU at the same time. Large areas are covered with sheet material, and hard-to-reach places and crevices are sprayed. This will completely solve the problem of even the coldest attic.

Foam glass is an uncommon and unfairly relegated material. The reason for this is simple - the price is very high. Foam glass, as the name implies, is obtained by foaming glass fiber. The result is a porous (cellular) material that is absolutely not susceptible to fire, safe, durable and meets all the requirements for insulation. If financial possibilities allow, then foam glass as thermal insulation should be considered first of all.

A separate group from the derivatives of plastic and glass are foil materials for insulating premises from the inside. By themselves, they have a small thickness, therefore they are often combined with various variations of foamed cellular materials, which are inside between two layers of foil.

The advantages of reflective materials are obvious:

• Light weight and small thickness. An attic is rarely large, especially considering that its dimensions are hidden by the shape of the roof, and a 20 mm foil sheet is much more practical than 200 mm of foam.
• The material is easy to cut, does not crumble, does not slip on the surface.
• There are variants of self-adhesive sheets, in which one side is covered with a reflective layer and the other with an adhesive adhesive. They greatly simplify installation work.
• Foil is an excellent heat reflector. Thanks to her abilities, in the cold season, heat does not leave the room, but in hot weather it remains outside.
• Reflective coatings are hydrophobic; they simply repel water.
• It is at the same time insulation from precipitation, dust, wind, cold.
• Despite the minimum thickness, it copes with the noise insulation function.
• Elastic and flexible.
• Biostable.
• Does not emit toxins and formaldehyde when heated.
• Long lasting.

How to choose?

The choice of a suitable insulation is a crucial stage in the arrangement of a living space on the attic floor.

There are several important factors to consider:

• Accounting for climatic conditions. If severe frosts are raging in the region in the cold season, you need to choose a cellular or porous insulation. Its structure allows warm air to fill empty spaces and keep the room warm. It works like PVC profiles and double-glazed windows. The more layers of cells, the better the material, so the layer thickness should be more than 1-2 cm.
• For regions with high humidity, the hydrophobicity of the material is in the first place. All types of cotton wool are undesirable here, but derivatives of polyethylene and plastic will be just right. You can safely use polystyrene foam and polyurethane foam.
• With a large amount of precipitation in winter, giving a load on the roof, lightweight materials are preferable. For example, Styrofoam and Foil.

• Accounting for indicators of moisture and fire resistance. Even if the climate is not teeming with rain, protecting the insulation from moisture is very important. Wet material ceases to perform its functions, since its thermal conductivity changes, and gains weight.
• As for fire safety, it is rather the observance of all SNiP norms. Choosing a fire-resistant material is not difficult. Most manufacturers add substances called fire retardants to organic raw materials for the manufacture of insulation. They prevent the spread of fire.

• The ability of the material to keep its shape. Measured as modulus of elasticity and resistance to deformation. It depends on this whether it will create a monolithic reliable protection or will begin to sag and drafts and blown places will appear in the room. The undisputed leaders in this regard are not sheet materials, but sprayed materials.
• Material coefficients for several characteristics: thermal conductivity, vapor permeability, sound insulation index.
• Composition of the substance. For the arrangement of a living room in the attic, it is recommended to use environmentally friendly materials, without resins, formaldehydes and toxic substances. Various impregnations are permissible if their presence meets the requirements of GOST.

The type of materials used in the finishing of the roof also matters.

For metal tiles

It is correct to carry out insulation of the attic ceiling under such material with the help of a layer that is not afraid of moisture. Features of the structure and installation of metal tiles are such that water can get under it. It is optimal here to use foamed materials based on plastic or glass, but if the choice fell on mineral wool, it is important to take care of a good waterproofing layer.

It is also necessary to choose a material with an anti-condensation coating. After the condensation reaches a certain temperature, it also turns into water that is dangerous for the insulating layer. The problem can be solved with polypropylene films, geotextile coatings and superdiffuse membranes.

The disadvantages of metal tiles include the fact that their unusual shape allows sediments to accumulate between the layers of the coating, which is almost impossible to make completely sealed. High-quality ventilation under the roof will help to minimize the damage from this as much as possible. Natural in this case may not be enough, it is necessary to equip a compulsory one.

Such problems also apply to ceramic embossing and slate sheets. They all have the same shape, which does not allow the sheets to fit closely.

For corrugated board

It is less problematic with respect to leaks and condensation, since the sheets are tighter, and the joints are treated with sealant and paint. But the material has its own characteristics. Firstly, it is very cold and the insulation must be of high quality and impressive in thickness. Secondly, during the rain, it is very noisy under the roofing made of corrugated board; you need a material with high sound absorption rates.

From the list of suitable materials, it is necessary to exclude thin foil sheets, fiberglass, cellulose insulation of the ecol type. Their thickness and sound insulation indicators are insufficient to ensure a comfortable stay in the attic under the roof decking.

For the attic above the bath

Along with the type of roofing materials, the location of the attic must be taken into account: either it is located above all living quarters, or above part of the house.

One of the problematic options is the attic above the bathhouse. With such an arrangement, it is difficult to equip a living space in it. It is more suitable for a relaxation room, a small living room or a play area, which is necessary after bath procedures.

The main difficulty in choosing materials lies in the microclimate of the room above the bath, which is different from the microclimate above the living rooms. The temperature and humidity conditions in it are unstable, and the possibility of condensation is very high. Of course, under such conditions, neither sawdust, nor cotton wool, nor ecological cellulose-based insulation are suitable. It requires hydrophobic materials like expanded polystyrene and polyurethane foam, foil coatings, good vapor barrier, forced ventilation.

Winter residence houses

There is no universal solution for insulating the attic for winter residence. It all depends on the climatic conditions and materials used in the construction of the house.

Long and harsh winters - solid, porous, temperature-resistant insulation. Warm climate - any material suitable for the type of roof.

In a private wooden house, due to the properties of wood, to retain heat of a fairly thin insulation. Materials based on cellulose, glass or plastic are also suitable. You can use foil with a minimum thickness.

In brick houses with roofs made of corrugated board, tiles or slate, additional insulation in the form of air spaces is required. These can be dense porous materials and several layers between them. Insulation of a frame house does not require much effort, since its design already provides for all the features of specific climatic conditions. Any moisture-resistant and fire-resistant materials are suitable here.

How to insulate with your own hands?

The technology for creating thermal insulation in the attic is also available to non-professionals. The key to success is not in the experience of installation work, but in the correct selection of material, the sequential implementation of actions to create a continuous insulated contour and accuracy.

The procedure is as follows:

• Calculation of the permissible load and optimal material thickness.
• Selection of materials and necessary tools (including safety equipment).
• Premises preparation: cleaning, dedusting, processing of wooden structures with protective impregnations.
• Installation of the lathing. This is an important and mandatory step that amateurs unknowingly skip. The device for thermal insulation of the attic without lathing and counter-lathing is considered a gross mistake. It is nailed from the inside over the entire roof area.
• Laying a waterproofing film or diffuse membrane. The mount should not be tight, it is better to let the material sag a little. The sheets are overlapped on each other (15-25 cm) and fastened with tape or foil. A gap of 20 to 50 cm is required between the membrane and the crate.
• Insulation installation. The methods are different, depending on the type of material and the location of the rafters. Roll material can be attached with a slight overlap and fixed with tape or stapler. Insulation sheet for finishing the roof and walls is laid tightly, taking into account a slight shrinkage in the future. The abutment is made as close as possible, the seams are processed with tape. You can use screws and nails for very dense materials.

It is important to dock well in the corners of the pediment and in such difficult areas as the ridge, valley, overhangs. For this, small pieces of material are used, separated by an improvised way.

Particular attention is paid to the contour of the windows. The room will remain cold if warm air comes out through the cracks near the window.

The sequence is as follows: insulation of the roof, ceilings, pediment, partitions, walls. The floor can be insulated both before and after.

Floor insulation is more variable, since it is less influenced by precipitation, winds and frosts.

It can be dry backfill, sawdust, and mineral wool:

• Installation of vapor barrier. It is laid with an overlap, like a membrane, and is fixed in different ways. Typically, there is a line on the material that marks the width of the joint between two sheets.
• Lathing if necessary.
• Decorative finishing.

Frequent mistakes

The correct thermal pyrog for roof insulation is installed in compliance with many nuances.

Non-professionals often make the same mistakes that affect the quality of the thermal insulation of the attic:

• no ventilation gap from the ceiling to the membrane. As a result, the insulation freezes and ceases to work;
• strong sagging of the membrane - this reduces the gap required for ventilation and leads to the formation of condensation;
• attempts to save on insulating materials, laying them without the necessary joints, as a result of which gaps are formed and heat goes out, warming the roof, and not the room;

• tamping the material to such an extent that it warps and crumples, losing its properties;
• unsewn cornices - this leads to the fact that precipitation gets free access to the insulation and saturates it with moisture;
• lack of ventilation;
• lack of tape or tape at the joints of the sheet material.

1. Use hard and dense materials or dusting. They are better fixed and do not deform in the process.
2. Increasing the distance between the attic ceiling and the top of the ridge will create an "air cushion" and improve the quality of the warm circuit.
3. It is better to leave the ventilation gap not only between the crate and the membrane, but also between the membrane and the insulation.