How to make a wooden punt boat with your own hands for small trips on bodies of water. Let's dwell on a small model that can be transported on the trunk of a car or in a car trailer.

Swimming device characteristics:

• length, m, 2.918;
• width, m, 1.052;
• height, m, 0.400;
• material, wood and plywood;
• stroke, oar and motor (low-power, no more than two horsepower, gasoline or electric).

Front view

Back view

Side view

View from above

Bottom view

Detail of a wooden punt boat:

1. Central bar
2. Frames
3. Nasal element
4. Stern
5. Seats
6. Deck

For the manufacture of the boat we will use plywood of the following brands: FBS; BS; FB, which include bakelite glue. These grades of material have very high moisture resistance and strength. Plywood is produced in the following types of sizes AxBxC.

Where:
A- thickness - 5; 7; ten; 12; fourteen; 16; 18 (mm);
V- width - 1508 (mm);
WITH- length - 5300; 5600 (mm);
The density of the material is 1200 (kg / m³).

The central bar, frames, bow element, stern, seats - we make from plywood eighteen millimeters thick.
Boards - we make from plywood ten millimeters thick.
Bottom, deck - we make from plywood with a thickness of five millimeters.

Assembly order

We fix six frames on the slipway table. From above we insert the central bar with grooves on the frames. We fix the bow element. We fix the stern.

Place spacers between the top edges on each frame. Spacers are necessary to give strength to the structure during the assembly of the boards. We attach the left and right sides to the frames. In order for the plywood to be easily bent, two conditions must be observed: moisture and heat, therefore it must be heated with steam or hot water.

We fasten the bottom to the sides with self-tapping screws with a press washer.

We fix the seats and remove the spacers. We attach the seats to bars bolted to the sides.

We fix the deck. The deck is fastened along the entire perimeter with self-tapping screws with a press washer.

ADVICE:

1. We fasten the boat parts together with universal screws of different lengths.
2. To ensure the watertightness of the boat, the joints of the structure must be lubricated with glue (VIAM-B \ Z).
3. Outside, we recommend that you glue the seams with a waterproof material.
4. Fasten the bottom with screws at intervals of forty centimeters.
5. On the bottom of the boat, you can put wooden grates, which will abut against the frames.
6. Before painting, the boat must be primed. The easiest way is to cover with linseed oil heated to a boil. Carry out the primer both outside and inside.
7. After the drying oil has dried, apply bright paints of various colors and shades. We dilute the paint to a liquid state in order to apply it to the surface of the boat two or three times.
8. Covering with nitro paints, plywood is not recommended. High-quality surface coating is the key to the durability of your product.

On the proposed model, made by hand, you can safely accommodate two fishermen.
As you can see, the proposed model is easy to manufacture, only thirteen assembly units and three types of thicknesses of the material used.

DIY projects.
Sailing yachts

"Natalie"	Cruising dinghy 5.9m, for recreation and tourism.
"Karas 500"	5m small cruising sailing dinghy
"Fox 500"	Light yacht 5m long with a shelter cabin.
"Natali600"	Plywood trellis boat with a radius chine, length 6m.
"Natalie 695"	Tourist sailing dinghy 6.95m for recreation and tourism.
"Altruist"	Small family yacht 4.88m
"Natalie 800M"	Trailer cruising dinghy with a length of 8 m, latrine, galley with 4-5 berths.
"Natalie 850"	Cruiser, sailing dinghy, 8.5 m long, with all the amenities.
"Anastasia 590"	Cruiser 5.9m with all the amenities
"Natalie 700"	Family cruiser 7m long, with all the comforts, a compromise.
"Natalie 625"	Cruising sailing dinghy, length 6-6.25m
"Natalie 460"	Small sailing dinghy, length 4.6m
"Natalie 850"	The yacht is 8.5m long, with a radial chine.

Motor boats and plywood boats.

Project cost

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The hull type of the boat determines the type of propeller that is needed to ensure that the boat of this plan works properly in the pond.
There are two main types of carcasses: movement type and slide type.

Sailing ships are relatively slow. They are supported by the body of water that they remove (that is, the static pressure of the water). Their design features a slightly oriented or rounded shape of the stern and a sharp or rounded bow shape.

They sit deep in the water like ocean ships. During operation, the propellers on these boats are completely submerged in the water and have a significantly smaller pitch.

Planes of the plane type, which contain most of the recreational vessel operating at low speeds (less than 10 kilometers per hour), as well as moving hull type.

With sufficient power, these vessels are mounted on the surface of the water and operate in sliding, floating and dynamic pressure (rotation speed) of the supported water. Skate types tend to be larger in fleet and more efficient than moving hull boats.

Their design differs from the shear design as their wide trance is essentially at an acute angle at the base of the boat. The propellers on such ships are often not completely submerged, and with this expansion to the upper speed range, increased buoyancy and stability, and large propeller pitch and blade angle.

Below is a description of typical housings for operation with external motors and other supply systems.

Stepped bottom example

In general, an example of a stepped design is the keel body version (with a V-shaped bottom).

This hull design causes cavitation on the boat's working surface due to the numerous side ladders at the bottom. Cavitation in the area of ​​bottom contact with the water surface reduces braking, which leads to an increase in boat speed.

Keel (V-shaped) bottom

At this time, the most common bottom type boat design allows a good degree in combination with a softer boat turning ability, which depends on the angle of the V-shaped bottom (the so-called "keel angle"), the radius or shape of the keel line and the cover of the dog boat.

To increase the upper speed limit with a slight loss of softness, smoothness of the sharp keel at the end of the lower part from bow to stern, the shape of a trapezoid moves in the reference plane (in cross section) )].

In order to get the desired performance, each boat manufacturer has his own way of deciding the number of lanes and how exactly they move backward (to trance).

The more belts, the higher the boat's rise from the water and the trimmer along the road, but the boat's progress is somewhat more difficult.

Catamaran hull

This form is the most popular among amateurs of competitive competitions.

Its bottom differs from the bottom of old catamarans by rather sharp internal corners (between the bottom and the walls of the tunnel). This gives you extremely sharp turns / turns at high speeds with a very smooth and smooth ride. However, at low speeds, some ships with this body structure have handling problems.

Double catamaran hull

It is a combination of a small keel bottom with two identical tunnels on either side of the central gondola.

The performance data at the border above the speed is generally higher compared to the real body locust, but it is associated with a "rough" path in a turbulent water tank and lower lifting capacity compared to a conventional V-bottom.

"3-body", arched construction

These bodies usually have a keel bottom with additional lateral patches on both sides; There are two vaults between the keel and the darkness.

Often these arches are more pronounced in the nose. The advantage of this case is greater stability, especially at rest. The disadvantage is the uneven course with jumps in restless water.

Flat bottom body

A flat bottom of a boat from side to bottom without a keel is called a flat bottom.

The plane of intersection of the bottom with the side walls (sides) can have a so-called "bell". The chimney can be rectangular, sharp ("solid") or semicircular, rounded ("soft").

pontoon

The pontoon structure has a flat bottom, which is supported by two or three pontoons, usually of aluminum.

This design maximizes the useful surface of the floating object. The pontoons simply go into the water at operating speed, but the front ends must be appropriately shaped.

Boat bottom shape

To achieve maximum speed, the bottom of the boat should be as straight longitudinally as possible from bow to stern for about the last 5 feet (1.5 m).

In addition, the angle between the bottom and the trench must be sharp enough to achieve maximum speed and reduce slip.

The bottom is called “hollow” if it is concave and concave in the longitudinal direction of the axis from bow to stern in a lateral view. The concern determines the greater resistance of the stern (in the stern) and leads to lowering of the bow (trimming of the bow).

How to make a boat out of boards with your own hands

This increases the wetted area and decreases the boat's speed, but at the same time facilitates glide and reduces the tilt of the boat for the Dolphin Kozlenev (rhythmic rebound). Often during boat construction, the concavity is special.

However, concavity can be obtained, for example, by improper transport of the boat on a trailer or by insufficient storage if there is no support directly under the diameter.

The rocking chair is the opposite of swagger.

The lower part of the boat has a bulge in the longitudinal axial direction from bow to stern at the side view. On the way, the bulge of the bottom can be the result of "goat", "dolphinization".

Concavity and convexity represent a multifaceted area and, most importantly, in the area from the center to the rear (called the critical zone at the bottom), a negative effect on boat speed, often leading to a decrease in speed to high boat performance, several kilometers per hour.

Plants with one or several motors

On single motor units, right-hand drive units are almost always installed.

It is simply a gift of tradition, but it has been preserved with the practice of pleasure boat manufacturers nonetheless. In this case, the control panel is located on the right side of the boat to compensate for roll caused by correct rotation of the propeller.

This controls the steering cylinder in both directions when the PLA or other propulsion system controls the trim hydraulics in the same way. Most shipbuilders prefer to rotate the propeller "outside" the propeller in the opposite direction from the center on both sides, in other words, rotate the right-hand PLA and PLC counterclockwise; while it is assumed that routing in general, though not very much, is an improvement.

In addition, it provides more balanced control in the power operation of only one of the two motors.

Many seniors who are equipped with two outboard motors with boats use propellers that rotate in the same direction. The disadvantage of such a system includes an increase in steering wheel torque at high angles, both up and down (on boats without power steering), as well as (for example) a small feed demolition at the right time when the force of two propellers of the boat in very rough water "Makes" the body on the surface and literally flies like air chambers. "

Trips to the bosom of nature have their own tremendous therapeutic effect. The smooth surface of a lake or river soothes better than numerous preparations, whether they are at least entirely from natural raw materials. That is why men tend to sit with fishing rods on the shore of the reservoir, and swim in the reeds on a boat or boat is the height of dreams.
And everything would be nice, but boats are now expensive. About boats - generally a separate conversation. And now imagine that a separate garage is needed for the boat and plus a trailer for transportation, so it turns out that not a single sane mistress understands such an ordinary, normal male hobby.

However, there is also a more budgetary hobby option, homemade water vehicles are quite acceptable. The conversation will be about flat-bottomed boats, especially since the material for them is inexpensive - plywood.

Why punt

Yes indeed, why exactly a punt, and not, say, a stationary boat or a boat. Looking ahead, let's say that a punt, or a flat-bottomed boat, is the easiest thing to do on your own. It contains the set of positive qualities that for an ordinary watercraft requires significant costs.
Namely:

• The price of the boat, as well as the weight, will be minimal;
• Transportation of this type of transport can be safely carried out on the trunk of your own car without any additional trailers;
• During storage, the boat is quietly installed in a regular garage, taking up little space;
• The usual painting of the bottom can solve the whole complex of problems;
• And most importantly, a plywood boat is assembled from plywood with its own hands. The building is accessible even to people who do not have the skills to make such products.

These are the main positive features. And for further comparative analysis, I would like to dwell on some parameters that have a numerical expression.
In particular:

• The length of the boat depends on the number of people and the carrying capacity of the vessel and may be from 1800 to 3800 mm and more;

Our help! The boats, of course, can be larger, but in this case they are designed for the so-called commercial transportation, and in this case they will require more serious materials for construction, appropriate impregnations, work with seams, and so on.

• Maximum width - from 1000 to 1500 mm;
• The height of the side and the transom is approximately 400 mm;
• The mass of the boat is from 60 to 80 kg, maybe a little more;
• Calculation for a carrying capacity of 1-3.4 people. Or 120 - 380 kg.

For your information! Despite the seeming frivolity of the design, it can be additionally equipped with a sail or a motor (this is in addition to two oars). In this case, the motor can be from 2 to 8 hp, the transom will calmly withstand such a superstructure. For those who like to go tack or with a fair breeze, there is also the possibility of rigging, which will be discussed in the following chapters.

The chapter on the material and general rules for working with it

Since we are talking about plywood, it means that we will disassemble the plywood by the bones. It is clear that we will not need every material from this family.
We will use two types of material:

• First. Plywood with increased moisture resistance. As a rule, this is a common building material, the thickness of which is in the range of 12 - 16 mm. Often, in the production of such a material, an adhesive base is used, which is not recommended for use in housing, namely in rooms.

Limited, allowed for use on balconies and in commercial premises, due to the inclusion of formaldehyde in the adhesives. For the environment, such a ratio is also undesirable, so we recommend that you use multi-layer film faced plywood with a minimum amount of glue and an application for almost environmental friendliness.

• Second. So-called aircraft or five-ply plywood. Despite its lightness, it is strong enough and can be used:
  • first, on the transom;
  • secondly, on the seats.

Despite the different approaches to the construction of punt boats, in different sources there are general rules for working with the material, a kind of universal user manual, here it is:

• Considering our case, you will need a circular saw to cut material. When working with thin plywood, which can be used, for example, to cut letters, a regular construction knife will do (this is plywood up to 2 mm). Well, for the sake of completeness, we inform you that plywood from 2 to 6 mm is sawn with a jigsaw;
• In any plywood, there is a risk of cracks in the outer veneers when cutting across the grain. This can be avoided if weakening strips of the upper veneer layer are drawn along the intended cut;

• The basic designs of flat-bottomed boats involve wire ties of parts, in some there is fixation with self-tapping screws, followed by pouring with epoxy resin. I would like to say that the self-tapping screw does not fit into the plywood just like that.

The reason for this is trivial, with direct driving in or screwing in, diverging radial cracks in the products are possible. It is recommended to first drill the plywood with a drill of the appropriate diameter, and then tighten the self-tapping screw;

• When designing punt boats, it becomes necessary to bend the base of the boat, giving it curved shapes. In order for the plywood to bend more easily, it is moistened, fixed to the required shape and left in this position until completely dry for up to 14 hours;

Assembly process according to all the rules.

• When gluing parts, all general recommendations for cleaning, degreasing, stripping are given on a bottle with glue or packaging, so there is no point in repeating here. But what you need to pay attention to is the location of the plywood fibers when gluing. So, parallel fibers stick together much more reliably;
• Some troubles at work. If your plywood exfoliates during work, then it can be glued by laying thin paper between the layers and gluing it with glue. Of course, there can be no talk of any kind of boat construction, but, for example, such material is quite suitable for assembling shelves, birdhouses, decorative figures in playgrounds. Unfortunately, you've got a marriage.

Tool selection

The choice of tools is always important, although if you are going to design in a garage or home workshop. Then you probably have all this.
Well, what don't you have?

• A jigsaw and a circular saw are what you probably will find and it is they who are responsible for the main task of cutting the material;
• The electric plane is not uncommon now. No, take it from a neighbor, but that is if you are not going to make a boat with straight sides. For the usual design of flat-bottomed boats, the bead lines are provided at an angle of 45 degrees, for this it is necessary to carry out a burr and here it is very difficult to do without an electric plane;
• Grinding tools. They can be both electrical and mechanical (sandpaper and a holder for it will perfectly cope with the problem of stripping);
• Screwdriver - can be used both for its main purpose and as a drill for drilling holes for fasteners or self-tapping screws.

The process begins

With the material sorted out, the calculation was carried out. It is best to arrange cutting and sewing on a special table, but tell me, please, where did you see a wide table in the garage? That's right, he is not there, so we proceed from reality.
On the floor:

• with the help of a square, we carry out a phased transfer of all parts to the canvas. It will be a good idea to prepare the patterns on paper in advance and then transfer them to the canvas.

By the way, some masters recommend modeling and building a model of the future boat in a scale ratio before assembling. Thus, you will be able to visually represent what you will create and, if necessary, make adjustments;

Note! Preliminary preparation of parts on paper is also necessary when solving the issue of saving material. The fact is that rational placement helps to really save material, but it would be good to do this without fanaticism, leaving enough space for cuts and the ability to grind the part to the required size.

• The process that we will now prescribe can be omitted if you are preparing the usual vertical sides of the vessel. If you prefer the classics with a small side edge, then you can't get away from the hang-up.

For this, an electric plane is used. To work with this tool, one pass is enough, leave more room for grinding, and here use anything, even a power tool, even sandpaper, the choice is yours;

• If your design includes frames or other jumpers that increase the rigidity of the structure, then it's time to assemble or cut them (if they assume a cast shape);
• Then there is the assembly of the sides, stern, and if there is a forespiegel in the idea, then it is. In this case, the fixation of the parts occurs with a metal wire, for which the joints are first drilled and then pulled together;

Advice! To facilitate assembly, you can use plastic cable clamps, the only inconvenience is that they need to be installed more often, especially in places where tension occurs, but they will perfectly hide in a thick layer of epoxy resin.

• After the frame, the bottom of the boat is connected. The principle of connection is exactly the same: either on clamps or on wire. Joints are literally filled with epoxy. Ordinary pasting will not have such an effect, you need not just fixing the parts, but also sealing, but here you will have to fill it;
• After the joints have dried, another treatment takes place. The resulting seams are sanded, giving them a uniform appearance. And then, specially purchased with a wide fiberglass tape, impregnated and coated with the same epoxy resin, the joints are glued again:
  • twice outside;
  • and once along the inner contours;
• But now you can attach other parts of the ship.

The sail is a symbol of romantics

• To sail under sail, one mast and sails will not be enough, it is necessary to ensure the stability of the vessel, otherwise it will be overwhelmed like a tumbler. A centerboard is provided for these cases. This element may well be made of plywood up to 6 mm, as well as the steering wheel, but it can be made from plywood, which is used for the production of the hull.

There can be one or several centerboards. It is believed that the most stable position of the vessel is provided by two centerboards, which are located under the bottom of the boat with some turn in different directions;

• A few words about the steering wheel. The simplest handlebar attachment, these are the usual loops, in the amount of two pieces, one part is attached to the transom, and the second directly to the handlebar.

Preference is given to non-removable hinges so that the steering wheel does not fall out. Sometimes it is allowed to drill a special oval window in the transom, into which the steering wheel is inserted, fixation occurs with a metal pin;

• The masts are prepared collapsible from two pieces. In this case, the parts are fastened to each other with the help of special fasteners, the lower part of the mast has a square section and is fastened in a step (special nest);
• Sails are prepared from dense fabric, for example, teak, at worst, coarse calico. There are a lot of ways to attach sails, their listing is impractical in view of the distance from the topic, you can find them in the relevant literature and on sites that specialize in the topic of yachts and boats.

Additional Notes

• Making a punt boat is fun and error-prone. Let's explain. The point is that any structure you start assembling can go wrong, especially for beginners. Errors are possible on the turning of the sides, on the articulation of parts, on fitting, and so on.

This should not be an obstacle, especially since the plywood is beautifully adjusted to any size. If you slightly change the geometry of the boat, take one or two centimeters, then most likely it will not affect the driving performance of your vehicle (read also).

• There are details that are often the last thing to notice. This is due to the ease of their attachment. Two keels for stability and direction of travel and foot bars to the bottom of the boat for the comfort of rowers. And if the first two are easy to attach to an already finished boat, then it is better to fasten the rails until the bottom is fixed to the general structure.

Paint and name

The last touches remained, in the form: go through with putty, sand and paint. You can simply cover with linseed oil, and then three coats of paint.
Why three, we explain:

• The first layer is a primer. It can be any color, even white, its main task is to even out possible defects and cover the entire surface with a single layer;
• The second and third are decorative and protective. It is clear that the more layers, the better the protection. But again, within reason. The choice of color or colors is yours.

Advice! The yacht varnish has also proven itself well, which is represented by a wide front even in construction supermarkets and hypermarkets. It is quite possible to use it. The rest of the paints are best bought in shops specializing in goods for boats and yachts, since waterproof paints may differ from each other.

And now it remains to name your creation, by some name. Do not forget that whatever you call the yacht, so it will float (this is quite acceptable for a boat). This vessel is interesting because there are no special requirements for it, but it can be used both at sea and on a river or lake.

A punt boat is a traditional fishing craft that appeared long before keel analogs made of pvc and aluminum. Convenient and quite simple, it was used not only for fishing - with its help, bulky goods and people were transported through the water. Despite the appearance of a large number of models of inflatable boats, the punt has not lost its popularity today. One of the reasons for this is the fact that such a craft can not only be purchased, but also made by hand.

In more detail about what a punt is, what it consists of and what types it is, what are its pros and cons, as well as how to make such a boat on your own, will be described in this article.

Device

Such a craft consists of:

• from two sides (right and left) up to 60–70 cm high;
• flat bottom, reinforced with longitudinal or transverse stiffeners (lamellas);
• rectangular stern (transom).

To transport people and control the boat, 2-3 benches (banks) are attached between its sides. Various fishing equipment is stored in a locker at the stern with a lockable lid. Depending on how many people are planned to be transported by boat. Its length varies from 2 to 4 meters with a width of 1.0–1.2 meters.

Most modern models have a pointed or tapered bow, due to which such a boat gains better maneuverability and speed of movement (especially against the current), has less windage in a strong headwind.

You can move on a punt with the help of oars, and with outboard screw or water jet engines installed at the stern.

Views

Depending on the material for making a punt, they are of the following types:
Wooden - a classic version of this boat. Wooden boats are made independently from coniferous boards (spruce, pine), plywood. The disadvantage of such boats is their decent weight, which is why anglers who do not have a car with a trailer use such a boat only on a nearby reservoir.

A wooden boat should be made of boards with a moisture content of no more than 16%, without cracks and falling out knots

Plastic - lightweight and durable factory boats with a one-piece construction made of durable and impact-resistant polypropylene, fiberglass, ABS plastic. It is impossible to make such a boat on your own. Its price, in comparison with inflatable counterparts, is somewhat lower. The disadvantage of such a boat is its fragility at low temperatures and very difficult self-repair.

Plastic models should be operated only in the warm season - in cold and frosty conditions, their body becomes fragile and easily damaged

Metal - such boats are made of aluminum and duralumin. In terms of strength and weight, such boats are the “golden mean” between wooden and plastic models. Having a low weight and constant, independent of air and water temperature, the strength of the body material, they can be freely operated throughout the open water season.

The aluminum punt boat is not suitable for sailing on the sea - the light structure is just enough to tip over with a large wave

Advantages and disadvantages

If you ask yourself which boat is better - keelboat or flat-bottomed - the latter has a number of advantages such as:

• Stability - due to the large area of ​​contact of the floating craft with water, a flat-bottomed boat is more resistant to a side wave and wind in comparison with a keel analog;
• High cross-country ability and carrying capacity - with a small draft, such boats allow transporting up to 5-6 people at a length of 4 m, while moving along shallow areas;

On a note. Having installed an outboard screw motor-swamp vehicle on a punt, you can navigate through overgrown and silted bays, swamps. The design of the unit and the material of manufacture of its screw allows it to chop up grass that comes in its way and not get clogged with dirt.

• Light weight - plastic and aluminum punt boats are much lighter than wooden and some inflatable boats;
• Ease of manufacture - you can make a punt with your own hands with a minimum set of tools and materials. The cost of such a craft will be significantly lower than the factory model.

The main disadvantage of such a boat is its low maneuverability and speed compared to keel boats.

Due to the shallow draft, the passability of a flat-bottomed boat in shallow areas of water is higher than that of any boat or keel boat

Making a punt with your own hands

Assembling a punt with your own hands includes drawing up drawings, buying materials, preparing the necessary tools, making the bottom, sides, stern from the board, fixing them and treating the structure against rotting with antiseptics, resin.

Materials and tools

Required tools:

• Jigsaw.
• Roulette.
• Square.
• Marker.
• Hammer.
• Screwdriver.

The materials required are dry spruce or pine boards 25–30 mm thick, bars with a cross section of 50 × 50 mm for crossbars, nails or galvanized screws, resin, tow, waterproof paint.

Drawing up a drawing

In order to build a punt boat from boards on your own, you must first of all make clear and visual drawings (project) of its main parts: sides, bottom, stern (transom). Based on the drawings, the calculation of the need for materials is made: board, plywood, bars for the frame and lamellas.

The drawing of a flat-bottomed boat should be clear and understandable - an error in dimensions during the manufacture of a craft will lead to a decrease in its tightness and maneuverability.

Bottom making

Several boards are laid tightly to each other, the bottom contour is outlined on them with a marker according to the dimensions of the drawing. 5 crossbars are made from the bars, the length of which is equal to the width of the bottom in the middle, stern and bow parts. The laid boards are sewn in the middle with the longest crossbar, after which, using a jigsaw or a manual circular, the bottom is cut along the outlined contour, leaving uncut sections at the bow and stern.

In the bow and stern part, the bottom blank is additionally fixed with boards and a nylon cord

Pulling the bottom with crossbars, they achieve minimum gaps between its boards

Installation of the bow board and stern

After the bottom is cut to the bow with the help of brushed nails or self-tapping screws, a bar is attached under a close to a right angle - a bow board. Then several boards are attached to the rear of the bottom, from which the stern (transom) is formed.

The close-to-right angle of attachment of the bow board will evenly distribute the force of the counter flow of water acting on the bow when the boat is moving

Fastening to the bottom of the sides

The first two boards of the right and left sides are nailed first to the bow board, then bend along the bottom contour and pulled together with a strong cord at the stern. After that, they are attached to the ends of the bottom with nails.

When attaching the first boards of the sides, it is better to fix them at the stern with a strong nylon cord

To fasten subsequent boards, bulkheads are nailed to the bottom parallel to the crossbars.

So that the boards "do not lead" the boards of the right and left boards are nailed to the bulkheads at the same time, without first assembling the right or left board completely.

With a boat length of 3.5-4 meters, at least 2 bulkheads must be present, to which side boards are sewn

Bottom and side processing

All gaps in the bottom and between the side boards are caulked with tow. To protect the bottom wood from rotting, as well as to prevent leaks, the bottom and sides are well coated with resin.

Plywood flat-bottomed boat

In the bow, a ring for a chain or a mooring cable is installed.

A flat-bottomed boat can be made not only from boards, but also from moisture-resistant plywood of the FBS or FSF brands.

A flat-bottomed boat is made of plywood using a simpler technology than an analogue of boards. First, two sides 30–40 cm high in the form of rectangular trapezoids, a rectangular stern and bow, are cut out of a sheet of plywood with a jigsaw. Then, with the help of special glue, first the starboard side, then the stern, the left side, and the bow are attached to a whole sheet of plywood (bottom). In this case, the aft part is attached to the bottom at a right angle, and the bow - at a blunt one (120–130 °). All elements, in addition to glue, are fastened together and the bottom with bars located inside the craft. After assembly, the outside of the boat is covered with two coats of waterproof paint or resin.

Such a boat, in comparison with one made of boards, has such advantages as low weight, low costs for the purchase of materials, and ease of manufacture.

In more detail about how such a do-it-yourself punt boat is made, the following video will tell:

On a note. Flat-bottomed ones are not only home-made, but also factory-made. Among them, such models as "SAVA" 270, "SAVA" 370, Liman "," Tortilla-2 "," Kazanka 6M "are popular. The cost of budget boats is 18,000–20,000 rubles, while the purchase of more capacious premium models will cost 25,000–30,000 rubles.

Thus, a punt boat is a watercraft slightly inferior in its characteristics to keel boats. It is made from both boards and moisture-resistant plywood. In addition to homemade boats, there is a large selection of factory models of punt boats made of plastic, aluminum.

However, the main dimensions of the vessel do not give a complete picture of the shape of its hull. The exact information about the shape of the body is given by theoretical drawing, which is performed, as a rule, in three projections. In order to obtain these projections, the ship's hull is dissected by three mutually perpendicular planes: diametrical (DP); main (OP), or the plane of the water level (cargo waterline); cross-sectional plane, or simply midship-frame. In accordance with the cutting plane on which the image of the ship is formed, the projection is called sideways (on the center plane), half-latitude (on the cargo waterline) or the hull (on the mid-frame). The base planes, on the basis of which the theoretical drawing of the vessel is obtained, are shown in Fig. 2.

However, the projections obtained by sectioning the body with only three main planes (Fig. 2) are clearly not enough for a detailed image of the shape of the body, therefore, another five to ten planes are drawn parallel to the main planes, the intersection of which with the body gives a number of projections. So, when the hull intersects with planes parallel to the DP, the contours of the vessel are obtained, called buttocks, parallel to the OP - waterlines, parallel - frames. In this case, each of the projections on two planes has the form of straight lines, and on the third - a real shape. Such theoretical drawings are necessary in cases where the housings are rounded. For, in which both the bottom and sides are formed by the skin, the theoretical drawing is reduced to the image on the projections of the keel, cheekbone, upper edge of the side and the outlines of the frames (Fig. 3).

The methods of constructing a theoretical drawing are common for any ship, including a punt, so every ship should know the principles of its construction.

The choice of basic dimensions, as well as the shape of the hull, is the main and most difficult issue in the design of a ship. The solution of this question requires knowledge of the basics of the theory of the ship (there is such a science) and the widespread use of statistical material. The easiest and surest way to make your job easier is to use ready-made drawings of a suitable boat. You can analyze the characteristics of a number of boats as analogues and try to create your own design on their basis. In any case, it is very useful to build a boat model at a scale of 1:10 or 1: 5. In the process of creating such a model, a self-made shipbuilder will delve into the construction technology, see the future boat not only in the plane of the drawing, but also in space, will receive an additional incentive to build a boat and be confident in the success of the enterprise.

Table 1 shows the characteristics of common rowing boats.

Table 1. Rowing boats
Characteristic history	Boat type
	"Bychok-2"	"Birch"	Okhtinka	"Fofan-F2"	"Botnik"	"Wave"
Hull lines *	O	O	O	O	|_|	o_o
Length, m	3,58	3,98	3,94	4,6	4	2,8
Width, m	1,48	1,14	1,17	1,22	1,27	1,04
Board height, m	0,50	0,47	0,39	0,47	0,38	0,28
Weight, kg	105	80	87	100	90	17
Capacity, people	3	3	2	3	3	2
Body material	Glass- plastic	Birch veneer on glue	Planks	Planks	Boards and plywood	Prore- blazed fabric
Paddles, pairs	1	1	1	2	1	1
Set- tion (payoli, scoops)	+	+	+	+	+	+
* By the contours of the hull, the ships are divided into rounded (symbol O); U-shaped (U); V-shaped (V); flat-bottomed (| _ |); sea ​​sled (W); longitudinally and transversely stepped, or stepped (D); inflatable (o_o).

It can be seen from Table 1 that the boats, despite the large difference in length, are practically the same width, which is caused by the need to install oarlocks for oars at an optimal distance for rowing. The fact is that work with oars, for example. When the oarlocks are located at a closer distance to each other, as on an inflatable boat "Volna", it becomes less effective. The length of the two-seater boat "Okhtinka" is practically equal to the length of the three-seater boats "Bychok-2", "Berezka" and "Botnik". Thus, we can conclude that it is simply not more convenient than a small, lightweight, simple boat with a punt with hull planking made of boards. This is the conclusion I came to several years ago when I was trying to solve a similar problem. Then I came across a description of the motor boat "Dragonfly", which differs from other boats in that its nose was somewhat "cut off", as a result of which it became shorter by about one spacing (the distance between the frames), the cheekbone approached the upper stern of the side at a considerable distance from the diametrical plane, a slight deadrise of the bow end of the hull turned into an almost flat bottom in the area of ​​the midship frame. As stated in the description, the motor boat "Dragonfly" is designed for sailing on rivers and small lakes with an outboard motor with a capacity of 10 ... 12 liters. with. I built such a boat entirely from sheets of aluminum alloy D16 with a thickness of 2 mm, and the frames of the Z-shaped profile were also made from these sheets. All connections are riveted. The seams were sealed with thick-grated lead white. The boat is wonderful. Together we are on it with an outboard motor "Whirlwind" with a capacity of 20 liters. with. developed a speed of about 45 ... 50 km / h. The boat walked pretty well under the oars, was maneuverable and had good stability. Its characteristics: length - 3550 mm; width - 1400 mm; the height of the sides - 450 mm; weight - 75 ... 80 kg. In general, it turned out to be a good universal boat for two for sailing under oars or with an outboard motor. The theoretical drawing of the "Dragonfly" boat is shown in Fig. 3, and the values ​​of the plazovyh ordinates - in table 2. Recall that plaza is the place where the theoretical drawing of the ship is drawn in full size, after which templates are made according to the drawn details, according to which the details of the ship are made.

Table 2. Plaza ordinates of the motor boat "Dragonfly"
Frame number	Height from Op, mm			Half-latitude from DP, mm
	Keel	Cheekbone	Board	Cheekbone	Board
1	320	340	370	330	350
2	90	200	415	460	560
3	30	110	445	540	660
4	10	60	455	600	690
5	0	35	455	640	695
6	0	25	440	670	670
7	0	25	420	670	610
8	0	25	405	670	560

Please note that table 2 does not show the plazovy ordinates of the deck of the motor boat "Dragonfly", which covered the first three spacings. In the theoretical drawing, the deck is shown. It can be seen that it has an inclination towards the bow of the boat's hull. The fact is that on the move the bow of the motor boat rises somewhat and takes a horizontal position when the boat is planing.

Knowing the driving qualities of the motor boat "Strekoza", taking into account the simplicity of its design and the manufacturability of construction from sheet material, a rowing boat with a wooden set and plywood hull sheathing with Lgb equal to 3050 mm was built in its likeness. At the same time, the theoretical drawing of the "Dragonfly" was slightly changed (Fig. 4). Plaza ordinates are summarized in Table 3.

Table 3. Plaza ordinates of a double rowing boat
Frame number	Height from Op, mm			Half-latitude from DP, mm
	Keel	Cheekbone	Board	Cheekbone	Board
1	400	430	450	330	350
2	140	270	450	440	500
3	50	150	450	530	610
4	0	30	450	600	700
5	0	30	450	600	700
6	0	30	450	580	680
7	10	40	450	530	630
8	70	100	450	470	570

As you know, according to the mode of movement, boats are divided into four types: floating, moving in a transient mode, planing and moving on hydrofoils. Since our rowing boat was supposed to float, not planing, we raised the bottom aft a little. Otherwise (with a flat bottom of the stern and a wide transom), when the boat was moving behind its stern, a passing water flow would be formed that could provide significant resistance to the movement of the boat. For the same purpose, as well as to improve the maneuverability of the boat, the collapse of the sides at the stern is similar to the collapse on the fourth frame of the "Dragonfly" hull. We shortened the boat by 50 cm, and the depth of the side became the same along the entire length of the boat. The steepness of the bow part of the keel-stem, as well as the deadlift of the bottom in the bow of the boat, were increased. In terms of its dimensions, our boat has become similar to an inflatable two-seater boat "Volna".

Here are the characteristics of our boat: length - 3050 mm; width - 1400 mm; board height - 450 mm; weight - 60 ... 70 kg.

Our boat went well under the oars. It turned out to be spacious enough and very convenient for fishing. It was not forbidden to install an outboard motor with a capacity of 5 ... 8 liters on it. with., for example, "Priboy" or "Veterok-8".

For a solo self-builder who prefers to relax on the water without satellites, we recommend shortening the boat by one spacing, that is, by 50 cm. Then the length of the boat will be 2550 mm, and the result will be a good one-seater boat.

For both a double boat and a single boat, a slight decrease in half-latitude is permissible, for example, by 100 mm. As a result, the width of the boats will be 1200 mm, which is comparable to the width of the boats "Berezka", "Okhtinka", "Fofan-F2" and "Botnik" (see table 1).

So, we have decided on the outlines of the boat's hull. Now you can start

Despite the fact that in almost any fishing store you can buy a boat for fishing, it is much more profitable from the material and practical point of view to make a boat out of plywood with your own hands.

And although it will take a lot of time and effort to make a homemade boat, you can be proud of the result for a long time. It's always nice to know that the thing is made with your own hands.

Necessary tools and materials

You can take ready-made drawings of how to make a boat out of plywood:

• punt;
• kayaks;
• with a motor;
• sailing.

Even if you don't like a single drawing, you can always design the boat yourself. But the skills of competently constructing drawings will not be superfluous, otherwise you will not get a boat, but a pile of firewood. The options for the execution of the drawings are shown in the photo.

To create a homemade plywood boat, you will need the following set of tools:

• jigsaw;
• saw;
• screwdriver;
• hammer;
• Sander;
• a set of clamps;
• set of brushes.

As far as materials are concerned, the main component of the structure is, of course, plywood. Waterproof boat plywood works best, but if you don't have it on hand, you can use birch veneer plywood sheets. In this case, the thickness of the sheets should be at least 5 mm, and some structural elements, for example, the bottom, keel and frames, should be 10-16 mm thick.

In addition to plywood, you will need to use wood to mount the frame of the spacers, floor grates, seats and more.

All seams and joints must be coated with glue, polymer resins, epoxy or similar means to ensure the tightness of the boat.

Also important materials are impregnations, varnishes, paints and drying oils. After all, the ship, firstly, must have a decent look, and secondly, it must not rot after the first sortie to the reservoir.

Making boats from plywood

It is worth noting that the construction of a boat from plywood can be carried out only from high-quality sheets that do not have such surface defects as knots, cracks and delamination. It is advisable to use the dimensions of the sheets as large as possible. Coarse plywood is easier to work with and the structure is more durable. But often no suitable plywood is found, and two sheets have to be glued together. To do this, the ends of the two sheets to be glued are grinded at an acute angle so that the length of the bevel is at least seven sheet thicknesses. Such bonding is called "mustache". The bevels are carefully coated with glue and pressed against each other with a set of clamps.

Using the drawings found or created independently, you can start marking materials. At this stage, it is important to observe exactly all dimensions. A deviation from the drawing by at least 1 mm will lead to the formation of gaps at the joints and, accordingly, a vulnerability of the structure will appear. For convenience, you can use patterns that are applied to the plywood and outlined. The photo shows an example of such a pattern.

So, using a jigsaw and a saw, cut out each structural element. Particular attention should be paid to the ends of the blanks - the angles of the joining of the surfaces should be observed. To create a tailgate, you will have to glue several layers of plywood until the design thickness and, as a result, the required strength are obtained. This will significantly make the structure heavier, but it is a necessary measure (especially if you plan to mount it under the motor). The same should be done with the frames.

Homemade plywood boats for the engine require additional reinforcement of the tailgate by gluing it with fiberglass and reinforcing it with hard wood.

To strengthen the structure, it is recommended to additionally fix the transoms and frames with galvanized or tinned screws. However, do not forget that the length of the screw should in no case exceed the thickness of the parts to be fastened.

For convenience, the transom is placed on the trestle and the bottom and sides are attached to it. The flattening of the ends should be carried out from the nose. Elements are fastened with glue and suture materials. If, as a result of this operation, the details of the structure do not converge, then you will have to disassemble everything and cut the frames. Therefore, it is better to measure everything in advance.

In the case of creating a homemade punt, the task is simplified as much as possible. Assembling a punt structure by a skilled enthusiast can take as little as 2-3 hours. Since there are no complex geometric shapes, the work can easily be performed by only one worker, without spending much physical effort.

Special attention will only need to be paid to the joints and slatted flooring made of wooden slats. Decking is necessary because the bottom of the boat is very vulnerable to deformation stress from the soles of the shoe.

Bonding seams

A do-it-yourself plywood motor boat requires special attention and control when gluing all the seams of the structure. The photo shows the final results of gluing the seams.

Stages of gluing:

1. Preparation of a sealing compound based on aerosil and epoxy resin in a 1: 1 ratio.
2. All corner joints are reinforced with wooden fillets (they play the role of stiffeners).
3. All joints from the inside are carefully coated with a sealing compound, and strips of fiberglass are glued on top.
4. After complete drying, frames are installed, which are attached with glue and screws.
5. Now the lining of the floor grating on the bottom begins.
6. Installation of seats, oarlocks and other structural elements according to the drawing.
7. After all joints and surfaces are completely dry, the boat can be removed from the trestle.

Painting works

The final, but no less important stage in the construction of the boat is painting. Before starting painting, it is necessary to prepare all surfaces and joints by grinding and degreasing.

After that, it is necessary to carefully coat every centimeter of the surface with wood impregnation. It is recommended to use impregnation for river or sea vessels.

Now you can start painting. Painting work is usually done with a stiff brush, but spray guns are also allowed. It is recommended to use enamels intended for painting ships as paint. The durability of the boat directly depends on the quality of the painting work.

If you approach the task wisely, you can quite simply build a boat with your own hands, both for fishing and for a comfortable stay for the whole family.

The easiest way is to build a punt for fishing. The boat will be especially effective and practical if water-resistant plywood is used as the material, and the tailgate is equipped with a mount for the motor. The stages of construction of a punt can be seen in the video.

The motor boat is perfect for use on rivers and lakes. But in the sea, a home-made motor punt should be used only with complete confidence in the quality of the assembly.

A motor boat made of waterproof plywood can serve its owner for many years.