It is extremely useful, comfortable to hold, and inexpensive to make. This beautiful tool will make your lips stretch into a smile when you feel the beauty of working with it.

Dimensions, homemade planer mm: 54x178x76 (width x length x height)

The cost of high-quality, limited edition planers with wood inserts is measured in hundreds and sometimes thousands of dollars. This tool is similar to them, but smaller and more convenient, and better suited for working with small details. Craft it from inexpensive maple wood with contrasting exotic foam accents by adding a S25 blade.

How to make a plane block

1. Start with a 64xb0x230 mm maple blank. Mark vertical and oblique lines on the side face (Fig. 1) and extend them by the other three [workpiece wounds. Using a drilling machine, make a 6mm hole in the center of the workpiece. Then drill four 6x25mm holes in the corners on both sides (photo A).

2 Saw off the cheeks A from the workpiece (photo B) and re-draw the lines on the rest of the workpiece. Saw the workpiece along the markings so that the saw blade goes close to the lines, and separate the heel B and toe C (photo C).

Add the sole of a planer to the last

1 Assemble the last by gluing together cheeks A, heel B and toe C (photo D). When the glue is dry, sand the underside of the pad to flatten it. Quick tip! Use spray glue to attach a piece of sandpaper to a cast iron saw table or a piece of thick glass to flatten the underside of the pad.

2. To add a durable outsole D, glue a 19x57x185mm cocobolo piece to the underside of the A / B / C last, center aligned, and secure with clamps.

3. Using a pencil, mark the thickness of the sole D, drawing a line parallel to the bottom edge of the last 3 mm. Use a band saw to remove excess material (photo E). (-Save the trim to make a wedge E out of it. Then file off the protruding edges flush with the pad cheeks. Grind the sole in the same way as before and remove all sawing marks.

Shape your mouth

1. Extend the oblique marking lines from the cheeks A to the underside of the sole D. Drill the holes for the mouth (photo F) and trim the edges with a chisel (photo G).

2. Make a copy of the side pad template (fig. 1), and attach to one and: * cheeks A with spray glue. Saw along the contour with a bandsaw (photo H), then widen the slit in the mouth so that the plane's blade can pass through it (photo I).

Finish the plane to the final shape and add a wedge

1. Glue a 6 mm brass rod into the holes of the cheeks (fig. 2, photo J) and align its ends flush with cheeks A using a file.

Then make a copy of the profile template (fig. 3) and stick it on a piece of thick cardboard. Carefully cut the template along the contour lines and mark with it the shape of the bell (photo K). Saw off excess material with a band saw and sand the plane smoothly.

2. Mark and saw out the blank of the wedge E from the rest of the blank for the sole (photo L). Sand the beveled edge flat and check how the wedge fits into the block (photo M). Additionally sand or bevel the clip so that it fits snugly between the brass bar and the blade.

Note. If you have the same rounded blade for a scherhebel planer, make it rectangular before sharpening it at a 25 ° angle. We also shortened it to 95mm using a hacksaw, but you can keep the original length and this will not degrade the properties of the blade.

3. Saw the wedge to the final length and shape (fig. 4). Then round the top corners of heel B and toe C so that the plane is comfortable to hold with your hands. Sand all flies with 220 grit sandpaper and apply wax paste for finishing. Use a wooden mallet to adjust the blade reach. If you lightly hit the heel of the shoe, the blade will retract and the chips will be thinner. With light strokes on the blade, it can be extended, and also tilted to the right or left.

DIY planer - photo

A. The workpiece is first sawn into parts, which are then glued again. Auxiliary holes will help to accurately align them when gluing.

B. Saw off cheeks with a thickness of 6 mm from the workpiece. To safely guide the short workpiece and control the cut, use a pusher from a wide board trim.

C. To keep your fingers at a safe distance from the blade and make accurate bevel cuts, clamp the workpiece to the cross-stop pad.

D. Apply glue evenly to heel B and toe C, glue cheeks A and insert dowels 25 mm long into the holes.

E. The sole D protrudes beyond the cheeks. To keep the block horizontal when cutting, attach a 6 mm plank with double-sided tape.

F. Using a 5mm center point drill, carefully drill a series of holes between the scribing lines and remove excess material at the edges of the gap.

G. While resting the blade on the bevels of heel B and toe C, guide the chisel to trim the edges and corners of the slit, removing excess.

H. After cutting along the dotted lines of the template, remove the ends of the workpiece with dowels and reshape the last.

I. Expand the gap first with a coarse file, then file the surfaces with a velvet file until smooth.

J. Apply cyanoacrylate ("second") glue to the top edges of the holes so that the inserted brass rod will push the glue deeper.

K. Using a cardboard cutout template, draw smooth lines from toe to heel. Press down firmly on the template so that it does not move.

L. Mark a 10 ° angle on the edge at one end of the workpiece. Attach the workpiece with tape to the rectangular trim and saw along the line with a band saw.

M. Insert the blade into the block, then the blank of the wedge (without shortening it yet) and make a few light blows with the mallet. Dents will appear on the raised areas.

List of materials and parts
	Final dimensions, mm
D * outsole

* Blanks of parts are cut with an allowance (see instructions in the text).

Material designations: M - maple; C - cocobolo. Additionally: cyanoacrylate glue; brass rod with a diameter of 6 mm; dowels with a diameter of 6 mm. Cutting tool: drills with a diameter of 5 and 6 mm.

1 PC. A3-A5 LED Glowing Drawing Graffiti Drawing Board ...

In order to carry out work with curved or concave bases, they came up with humpbacks-kalevki, with the help of which textured planing of wooden blanks is performed. These elements are distinguished by their special shape. They have no particular merit in comparison with planers. In addition, it is quite problematic to work with such devices. In order for the processing of parts to be done efficiently, it is necessary to gain some experience in such work, as well as special skills.

Today, it is very difficult to find a kalev in hardware stores, since almost all stores sell electronic equipment. It is for this reason that it is much easier to make a plane yourself.

The iron element will determine the dimensions of the home-made planer body, therefore, first of all, it is necessary to start making an iron element, as well as a chipbreaker. For a planer of small dimensions, you can take an iron element from an old product, and for a device with oval-shaped elements, you can purchase "pieces of iron" at any hardware store. Such devices are filled up along the radius from the beginning, you can buy them together with suitable chip breakers. The planer drawing is very simple and straightforward; almost everyone can create it.

Choosing and processing a workpiece

In a significant part of all cases, the plane is made from the most common types of wood - maple, birch and others. The workpiece must be made 30-50 millimeters larger than the final dimensions of the device being manufactured. The width can be determined using the following formula: dimensions of the "piece of iron" + 3 mm + 20 mm on the cheeks + additional 6 mm for the possibility of processing on the machine. If the plane is made of small dimensions, then the cheeks can have a thickness of about 6 mm.

The tool should be marked so that the rings are parallel to the sole and the fiber runs down to the back from the front. So that after sawing all parts of the structure can be connected correctly, a triangle should be drawn on the front of the block, the top of which looks up.

First of all, it is necessary to make two parts of the middle section, between which the "piece of iron" and the chipbreaker are fixed with a wedge. Then you need to fix 2 cheeks.

The body of a planer is assembled from a workpiece, which is sawn into two parts. The cheeks are cut out with a band saw. Then the middle section is sawn into several pieces. At the same time, it will be necessary to make the bed of the iron element, as well as the distance for the chipbreaker. You can cut a wedge from a trim that will no longer be used. At the end of the assembly, the sole and the body must be processed to shape. At the end, the planer is adjusted.

Note that the middle element should be 1 mm wider than the "piece of iron". In addition, take into account the 1 mm allowance for machining the middle part of the tool to a rectangular shape. The cheeks can be marked using a saw. We place the iron bed at an angle of 45 degrees, so the shavings can come out without any difficulties. The entrance of the front opening is positioned at an angle of 60 degrees. I cut the middle element into the front part - the toe and the back part - the heel.

Then you need to make a simple template from plywood sheets, with which you select the groove for the screw head, it ends at a distance of about 20 mm from the bottom of the case. The groove can be selected with a chisel.

Tool pre-assembly

When making a home-made plane, it is necessary to lightly process the mouth of the middle element with a file, using the outlines of the "piece of iron". Then the rear part of this section is placed on the edge, an iron element is put in place, and then the front part is moved to it. In the end, you need to start checking the correct fit.

After that, the structure is pushed apart so that a gap of 3 mm appears between the components of the middle element of the planer for a "piece of iron" with a thickness of 4.5 mm, which forms the mouth of the tool. Further, all parts of the structure will need to be aligned and compressed. Holes will need to be drilled through the cheeks in the middle section on two sides so that the dowels can be installed and glued.

It is worth noting that a significant part of the planers are rectangular, so you should not waste time on ennobling the structure.

In the side parts, you need to choose small holes for the fingers, if they are available, it will be convenient to hold the tool. The corners must be chamfered.

When the planer has its final shape, you will need to saw off the chamfers. Until then, they will be able to ensure that all parts are accurately aligned so that the crossbar can be fitted. So that the dowels do not interfere during the gluing of the parts of the structure, it is necessary to saw them off flush with the cheeks.

Completion of tool making

On the extreme parts of the rod, you will need to mount round spikes, they will go into the holes in the cheeks. Thanks to these spikes, the structure will be able to rotate at an angle to the wedge. An additional line should be drawn at an angle of 90 degrees to the side parts to make holes for the rod on the top of the planer. After that, 1 cheek is removed from the assembly, and with the installed "piece of iron" and the chipbreaker, the line is transferred to the other cheek. The second cheek is removed from the middle part and, with an interval of 20 mm from the bottom of the tool and 12 mm from the top of the chipbreaker, mark the center of the hole intended for the rod.

Note that in order to guarantee the exact location of the rod hole, it must be done on a drilling device.

The cheeks are aligned along the drawn lines, then they are squeezed with clamps, after which a hole is drilled.

You can make a rod from a bar that has a cross section of 12 * 12 mm. The length of the rod should be equal to the width of the structure, taking into account the cheeks. The length of the thorns is determined based on the thickness of the cheeks. At the ends of the rod, four shoulders must be made. Then the thorns are rounded off with a knife.

In order for the chips to come out smoothly, you need to round off the upper ribs of the middle part of the rod. After the rod is ready, you need to start checking its fit to the tool. The rod should rotate without problems.

Final assembly of the element

After adjusting the rod, you need to check the location of the dowels and tenons. These parts of the structure should be flush with the cheeks. All parts will need to be glued and secured with clamps, while the cheeks need to be protected with gaskets. When the glue dries, you need to start cleaning the protruding solution. To be able to level the sole over the joints, you need to walk over the product once with a planer.

A wedge can be made from trimming from the middle and must be placed between the shank and the chipbreaker. If the wedge is flat, it will be difficult to knock out. If the angle is too large, then the wedge can be knocked out even with minor blows.

After the plane is assembled, it will be necessary to make a sole and redo the mouth in order to finally fit to the iron element, taking into account the purpose of the product being manufactured. A narrow gap in front of the "piece of iron" is a prerequisite in order to thinly remove chips. And the 0.8 mm gap is more suitable for coarse chips.

The most labor-intensive part of making a planer is adjusting the mouth of the tool to the "piece of iron". The entrance must be rounded off according to the bends of the iron element. This can only be done through a small opening in the sole of the planer. If the product is made to remove thin chips, then care must be taken to keep the mouth gap as narrow as possible.

The iron element should be secured against the uneven line of the front of the middle element, then begin to shape the sole. To do this, you need to grip the product being made in a vice upside down and from the ribs to the middle, where you need to remove some wood. Then the structure must be processed with a plane with a flat sole.

When a distance of 0.8 mm remains in the plane to the radius of the "piece of iron", you need to switch to a cycle. This is done with the aim of removing the traces of the plane. Then a small skin is fixed on the plate and the lower part of the plane is cleaned with long identical passes, while the tool should be shaken from side to side. Then inspect the contours of the sole of the "piece of iron". At the end, you should clean the sole of the micron skin, which is attached to a flat base.

After stripping, the "piece of iron" will not be able to pass through the mouth of the product. For this reason, it is necessary to remove the wood in front of the "piece of iron" with a small file. Remove until the iron element matches the mouth. As a result, the "piece of iron" should come out of the sole a little.

If you are satisfied with the quality of the product made, then the tool can be varnished. It is advised to apply an additional layer of varnish on the side parts of the planer.

Note that during the gluing of all parts of the product, it is necessary to promptly remove all excess glue that may stick out after being squeezed in the grip of the planer.

Making a plane out of wood is not difficult if you take into account all the nuances that are available. It is necessary to follow the correct procedure, as well as have all the necessary materials and tools.

For many, woodworking is a great pleasure. It's nice to make a table for the veranda with your own hands, assemble a garden bench or change a leaky board. Only the joys of creativity are darkened by the routine physical work that electric planers are called upon to fight. Everyone, even a beginner, can work as a manual electric plane.

The purpose of the electric planer

The plane is the oldest tool for woodworking after the ax. Any professional treats him with special respect. Painstaking work of designers and electricity made the plane even more perfect and efficient. Thus, modern electric planers outwardly resemble their mechanical counterparts, however, new designs are several times superior in productivity to manual labor.

The electric planer is intended for processing wood, reducing the thickness of wood products, preliminary planing, fitting, processing boards on the bed, beveling the edges and creating an extended groove of various shapes (chamfers, quarters, tongue) in products. All this is called one term - planing. This tool is not suitable for large areas, but with small volumes it makes it easier for the frequent repairman or the professional when handling wood.

The main function of a planer is to level a wooden surface that has been roughly finished beforehand. After leveling the product with a plane, all irregularities and defects disappear from the surface, and it becomes extremely smooth. Finishing wood is usually done with a grinding plane. You can also chamfer or groove a workpiece with an electric planer.

Electric planer design

The construction of an electric plane is quite simple. Let's take a closer look at the electric planer circuit and its constituent elements.

Rotating drum

In the body of the electric planer, on the base plate, there is the main working element - a rotating drum on which the knives are attached. As a rule, in the "knife drum" there are two, less often three or one, knives, which are engaged in cutting the upper surface of the planed wood. The knife shaft is much more technologically advanced than a conventional cutter, and the power of the tool allows you to work without any additional effort.

Knives are made from tungsten, hardened steel or carbide. According to the number of knives that are fixed on the drum, electric planers are "two-footed" and "one-footed". The first type of tool works only with accurate alignment, otherwise only one knife will work, the second is simple and productive. Electroplanes with a knife, which is fixed obliquely on the drum, are capable of making a specific "spiral" cut for high-quality planing of the board.

Knives wear out over time. There are reusable knives that need to be sharpened, or disposable knives that need to be replaced. The frequency of these procedures is largely determined by the operational loads: the type of wooden surface and the time of their processing.
To remove the knife, slightly loosen the bolts that press the knife holders. They can be easily removed from the grooves of the drum. After sharpening, the knives are put in place, aligning in height with each other, as in the video about the electric plane.

Due to the presence of a centering groove, straight knives made of carbide are easily mounted in their place in holders, which are inserted in turn into the grooves of the drum. Sharpened steel knives require more careful leveling in height.

Electric planer sole

The sole of the electric planer is made of die-cast aluminum and is divided into 2 parts relative to the drum - front and back. The rear is fixed to a fixed position, and the height of the front, which is able to move on wood that has not yet been worked, can be set using a knob or button. The depth of planing, or in other words, the thickness of the chips, depends primarily on the position of the front part.

The sole influences the stability of the electric plane. In any case, this element should not interfere with work and be smooth. The soles, which are produced by some manufacturers, have several V-shaped grooves in their surface, which are necessary for chamfering from the corners of the workpiece.

Electrical part

The rotating drum is connected to an electric motor using a drive belt, which is responsible for transmitting rotational motion. The drive belt needs to be changed from time to time. But this activity is not at all troublesome, because belts are sold in all tool stores. You can dismantle the old belt yourself. To facilitate this operation, the manufacturers made the protective cover removable.

The electric motor has a power of 580 - 900 W, its rotation speed reaches 1000 rpm. The quality of the treated surface largely depends on the power of the engine. The electric planer device contains a switch with a lock and a cord with a plug, as well as various electronic components: changing or stabilizing speed, soft start, drum balancing, overload protection and even an electronic brake.

Tool handles

To move along the working surface of the electric planer, two handles are used. The rear of them allows you to push the tool, it houses a start / stop trigger with a double safety system. With the help of the front additional handle, only the movement of the electric plane is directed, the same handle allows you to work "in full swing". If you press down well on the front handle, a large layer of wood can be removed at the end of the material to be cut.

Since the adjustment knob is sometimes used as a second knob, it is often made with internal notches for the possibility of raising it when switching, otherwise it is possible to knock down an unintentionally set chip thickness during operation. A handle without such notches is capable of adjusting this parameter on the fly, but this does not allow you to get rid of unwanted switching.

Switching steps are usually 0.1 millimeters, but each electric planer is different. The cutting depth can be set by turning the knob. In this case, the front part of the sole drops or rises, opening the drum with knives less or more.

Knife protection

Two types of safety devices protect the work surface and fingers from below and to the side from contact with the knives. At the bottom of the sole there is a leg, as in the photo of an electric planer, which is automatically thrown out, slightly raising the back of the sole. The movable safety leg will fold back when the electric planer is not working and the workpiece will be protected from contact with the knives. The planer can also be laid on its side with the drive belt cover facing down.

A side protection plate on the spring covers the edge of the knife drum and rises as far as the plane will go deeper into the wood when the quarter is selected. The side edge of the knife drum, which allows the selection of a quarter, is hidden under the pivoting plate.

Ejection of shavings

The direct chip ejection procedure relieves the electric plane from clogging and occurs in three ways. In the first case, no technical excesses are required, the chips will scatter throughout the room, but the working surface will not be clogged.

The possibility of the directionality of the ejection socket in some models makes it easier to remove chips, this is the second option for ejection of chips. The bag holds a large volume of chips, although it is not too bulky. If you need a bag, you should inquire whether there is one in the set and whether it is possible to purchase it in addition.

A good solution to the problem is to connect it with a corrugated hose to the vacuum cleaner, but it will not completely rid you of debris. Depending on the location of the operating electric planer, it is convenient to direct the chip ejection in a certain direction.

To do this, just switch the key to the desired position. The method is simple, however, it is inconvenient in some cases, because the hose and cord limit the flexibility of the structure.

Electric plane accessories

There are many different accessories for the tool, regardless of the price of the electric planer. For example, corrugated knives made of hardened steel, of different dimensions, which are used for roughing, as well as equipment that allows you to set a planer stationary and turn it into a planer and an automatic jointer at the same time.

The side stop, together with the depth gauge, is able to precisely set the width and thickness of the removed chips. In order to cut the angle, it is customary to tilt some of the stops from 0 to 45 degrees. When cutting a thin edge, the side fence will help give the plane the balance it needs. The above described accessories of all possible must be included in the kit.

Specifications

The power of the electric planer is 0.4 - 2 kW. For home use and do-it-yourself repairs, an electric plane is suitable, which has a power of 500 - 900 watts. For simple and short-term work, a household-class electric plane or a home-made low-power electric plane is suitable. And for real masters, you only need a professional powerful tool.

The rotational speed of the cutter is able to influence the cleanliness of the surface treatment and is 10 - 18 thousand revolutions per minute. In some models, the rotation speed can be changed. It is also able to be maintained at a constant level by electronics, which is very convenient when working with hardwoods.

The planing width is 82 millimeters and more. This figure matters when you spend most of your time working on boards. For many firms, the planing width of wood usually does not exceed 82 mm, but there are companies on the market, for example, Interskol, which have increased the planing width to about 102 millimeters.

You can set the planing depth within the range of 0 - 4 millimeters. It can be smooth and step-by-step. The cutting depth of the edge ranges from 0 to 25 millimeters, respectively.

Making an electric planer with your own hands

The electric planer that you will make is designed to process wood in one pass, which has a width of up to 120 millimeters and a processing depth of up to 1.2 millimeters. The work piece will rest on a plate with a cutterblock hole. The guide square is attached to the base plate with 2 M8 screws, which have plastic heads, it prevents lateral displacement of the product during processing.

Attached to the base plate from below with M6 screws, which have countersunk heads, bearings of the rotary knife shaft bearings. Outside the base plate at the end of the knife shaft, it is customary to install a V-belt pulley. The plate is attached with 10 screws to the body of an electric planer, which is welded from a steel corner measuring 20 by 20 by 3 millimeters.

The safety casing is connected to the body with three M6 cylindrical head screws over the V-belt transmission through spring washers. The electric motor of the tool is located inside the housing and is connected to it by means of 2 supports in the form of steel strips. They have 2 holes with a diameter of approximately 6.5 millimeters, which are intended for attaching to the body of an electric plane with your own hands, as well as 2 grooves each, providing installation and adjustment of the position of the electric motor for tensioning the belt.

The electric motor of the apparatus is controlled from a remote control located on the front of the body. Under the U-shaped bracket inside the control panel there are 2 phase-shifting capacitors, which are fixed in parallel and have a capacity of 4 μF. The switch is mounted externally on the panel. The motor is protected from direct ingress of dust and chips by a casing.

Make the base plate first. The most time-consuming operation is considered to be the execution of a curly cut in the slab, which is intended for the exit of the knives. For this purpose, use an electric drill with a cut-off wheel of a small diameter or drill along the contour of the hole, and then file the slot with a file. After drilling the mounting holes in the base plate, threaded holes are made along them in the 4 upper corners of the electric planer body.

Before welding, the upper corners are attached to the base plate with 10 screws, the remaining corners of the body are welded to them. Then the base plate is removed, and the body is finally welded along the contour, cleaning the welded seams. It is especially carefully cleaned along the plane in which the body rests on the base plate. In this case, gaps are unacceptable, because they provoke vibration during the operation of the electric planer. Consider this before making a do-it-yourself electric plane.

After completing the assembly, make sure that the cutter shaft will rotate counterclockwise - in the direction of feed, as judged from the side of the console. This feature is of great importance, because the technique of fixing the V-belt pulley on the knife shaft does not allow it to move in the opposite direction. Fasten the planer body without gaps with 4 M6 screws before starting work.

The knife shaft for slotting is equipped with 2 knives, which are 120 millimeters wide, or one knife. In the latter case, a counterweight is installed on the opposite side of the shaft in order to eliminate unbalance and vibrations. Each knife is secured using pressure plates and 3 M8 screws, which are screwed into the threaded through holes of the rotating knife shaft.

For knives, the most accessible blanks are the worked-out blade of hacksaw saws for metal, which has a thickness of about 3 millimeters. The angle of sharpening of the cutting edge of the knives should be within 30 - 40 degrees. With curly sharpening, you can get a relief surface for artistic frames or platbands.

Narrow and thin profile strips, which have a width of less than 10 millimeters, can be prepared by ripping a wider board. When working with narrow knives (less than 12 millimeters), it is not recommended to process grooves that have a depth of 8 millimeters, due to the lack of strength of the tool.

Now you know how to make an electric plane, it remains to learn how to properly sharpen the knives for it. Let's talk about this in the next article.

Wood processing is one of the most popular activities among passionate people around the world.

This material is relatively cheap, easy to grind, and the finished product coated with varnish, paint or stain will last for decades without losing its external aesthetics and strength.

Interior items, furniture and much more can be made independently, for this it is not at all necessary to spend money on the purchase of expensive equipment or materials.

Even the fact that plastics and various metal alloys are replacing wooden products everywhere does not diminish the interest in woodworking among enthusiasts.

This is both a great hobby and the opportunity to surprise loved ones with unique gizmos, created with your own hands.

The advice of experienced woodworkers suggests that you do not have to run to hardware stores if you need an additional tool to perform a certain type of work.

Something you can do with your own hands. For example, such a joiner's tool as a jointer.

What is he like? The jointer can be classified as a plane we are accustomed to, but with minor changes in appearance, which means it is designed to perform certain tasks.

Increasing the jointer length makes it possible to machine wide flat surfaces. The planing mechanism in this case is the same as when working with a plane.

Individual decorative or small elements cannot be processed with such equipment, but if it is necessary to achieve a smooth and flat surface of the product, it is irreplaceable.

Making a hand jointer from a planer and long polished pieces of wood is a simple task for any person who is more or less experienced in carpentry. Therefore, it is not worth spending large sums on its purchase.

Having devoted a few evenings to making such a tool, you will replenish your arsenal with quite practical and necessary equipment for processing wood.

Electric planer jointer do it yourself: how to do?

For those who have turned their hobby into something more and seeks to expand the range of their tools, we suggest trying to make a jointer yourself. Interesting and useful at the same time.

The presented by us option of manufacturing woodworking equipment, subject to the technology, allows you to get a tool with high accuracy.

To do this, we will use boards or plywood sheets already processed in advance using a jointer and a planer.

An electric plane jointer: how to build equipment yourself

In order to make a jointer with your own hands, you will need a wooden box, tightly knocked together, three sheets of plywood of different thicknesses (for which we will explain along the way so as not to confuse), an electric planer, bolts and nuts for fastening. Let's start with the box.

You can take a ready-made box without a bottom, but it's better to do it yourself. The fact is that the box must be of an elongated rectangular shape so that there is where to swing when joining.

We cover the knocked-down box with a sheet of plywood, having previously cut a hole in it, and place the plane in the box, with the knives up, or with the sole, which is actually the same thing.

If the plane is interskolovsky, then it has a special device for attaching it to the table with knives upside down, these elements are called adaptations.

On top of the base plywood sheet with the already attached plane, we put two more sheets.

What is special: one of the sheets will be 2 mm thicker. This will be the receiving sheet, that is, the one onto which the wooden beam leaves after the jointing (we assume that 2 mm will be the layer that will be cut off by the jointer).

The second sheet is respectively 2 mm thinner. This will be the feeding layer, the one from which the wooden bar is fed onto the planer blade.

The sole of the planer should be raised above the main plywood sheet so that the sole and the receiving layer are on the same plane, and the supply plywood is 2 mm higher.

The jointer must be firmly screwed in with bolts and nuts so that the fastening can be adjusted if necessary.

Electric Planer Jointer: Manufacturing Instructions

Method 1. Vertical placement of the working surface of the electric plane

Turning an electric plane into a jointer will not take much time and effort. Materials are also not needed. Remnants of wood are suitable, which can be added for the general good. The first option for using an electric plane as a jointer involves the vertical arrangement of the working surface and the cutting knife.

This arrangement allows you to machine both narrow and wide workpieces. In this case, the workpiece moves freely over the table surface.

The idea of ​​the device is quite simple, but the nuance lies in the fact that it will not be suitable for use on any table, for its use you need a carpentry workbench of a special design with the possibility of external lateral fastening.

With one installed, it is very easy to install the electric planer in an upright position. It should be noted that the fixture is made of 12 mm plywood for the DeWalt 680 OS electric planer. If you have equipment of a different model, then the device adapts to the design features of the existing plane.

Installation of equipment includes the following operations:

• insert the mounting bolts into the T-shaped profile and do not clamp them, but only slightly tighten them;

• remove the pressure plate and install the plane;

• we put the pressure plate in place, but do not tighten, but only slightly bait;

we set the working surface of the planer strictly perpendicular to the table top using a measuring tool;

the angle should correspond to 90º. The angle can be obtained using an M8 adjusting screw connection. The nut is installed in the plywood plane, and the screw passing through it rests against the handle of the electric plane, thereby changing the angle between the sole and the table surface. On the handle of the tool, in the place where the screw will be pressed, it is advisable to install a metal plate on double-sided tape. After setting the required size, the screw must be tightened with a lock nut;

we remove the standard side stop from the planer, and in its place we put a self-made protective casing. It is best to use a Ø8 threaded rod with a 30 mm threaded end for the rod of the guard. The size of the casing is 150x150 with a rounding;

a distinctive feature of such an installation is the ability to install the knives tangentially, as shown in the photo. This improves the cleanliness of processing and the workpiece is much easier to feed;

after all the settings are completed, tighten all the wing nuts and install additional clamps in order to avoid accidental violation of the settings during the jointing process.

Make sure that the cutting tool of the planer does not touch the table surfaces. This point must be taken into account when making the device.

As a clamp, you can use a flat board or level, having previously exposed and clamping them with clamps, and even more correct to make a comb, following the example of a milling machine. The comb should be fixed with clamps.

Before attaching it, set the processing depth. The recommended amount of material removal in one pass is not more than 1 mm.

Now you need to clamp the comb with clamps, which in length should go to the unregulated side of the working surface of the planer.

It is better to orient the sawdust suction downwards to prevent clogging of the pipe. In this position, the processing waste can be collected without connecting the forced suction of the shavings, it is enough to tie a plastic bag.

Due to the fact that the inclusion of an electric plane is blocked, it is best to turn it on using a remote socket, but if there is none, then it is necessary to use a switch, placing it in a convenient place near the working jointer.

Next, we take the workpiece and check the work of the do-it-yourself electric jointer. We check the treated surface for cleanliness and perpendicularity of the planes. The new electric planer planer is ready to go.

As noted earlier, vertical jointing requires a professional table. If you do carpentry work all the time, and you have such a table in stock, then the vertical installation of the plane is for you. But if your carpentry activity comes down to one-time work from time to time, then you will be more interested in another method of jointing with a horizontal arrangement of the work surface.

Method 2. Horizontal placement of the working surface of an electric plane

Consider the manufacture of a jointer based on an electric plane of the Status PL82SP trademark.

There are two reasons why we chose this particular tool. Firstly, it is quiet, which is a great advantage in a small home workshop. Secondly, the delivery set includes brackets for mounting the plane exactly horizontally. We will use them when making a jointer with our own hands.

Let's take a board 85 × 12 cm. We propose to use a thermal tree, it does not pick up moisture, so it does not lead during operation. But this is not important, you can use any material that is at hand. This board will serve as the base of our planer machine. We drill Ø 6.5 through holes for fixing the planer brackets.

On the reverse side of the board, we drill a Ø12 hole to the depth of the height of the M6 ​​bolt head.

Insert the M6 ​​bolts and tighten the nuts.

We attach the brackets to the bolts and install the plane. The tool axis must match the axis of the base.

Since the back of the working surface is not adjustable, we will take it as a base. We set a level on it long and measure the height from the top of the base to the working surface along both edges of the bottom board. They must be identical. In our case, this is 18 cm.

We prepare two blanks from the board, which will serve as table extenders. One of them is 27 cm long, the other 35 cm. The width is 10 cm.

We also cut out a workpiece from a 5 cm thick board, the length of which corresponds to the sum of the lengths of the extenders, and the width in total with the height of the extension is 18 cm.

We cut the workpieces to length and cut them in the middle at an angle.

We are preparing 4 more blanks. Two of them are 25.5 × 7.5 cm, and two more are 20.5 × 7.5 cm.

Now you need to make a groove in these blanks. To do this, you can use a milling cutter, but if you do not have such equipment, then we do it using a jigsaw and a hand drill. First, we drill holes for the entrance and exit of the canvas, and then we cut a groove. Using sandpaper, we clean and adjust the size to 8 mm.

We drill through holes for fastening with self-tapping screws, with the help of a countersink we make a chamfer on the hole.

We connect the blanks strictly in the middle, as shown in the photo, be sure to first secure them with clamps.

We take the mating part of the workpiece, drill a hole. Insert the furniture bolt with a square thrust bearing and twist the wing nut and washer. The table lifting unit is ready.

The next step is gluing the table extension to the lifting unit.

We fix the tables to the base with self-tapping screws. When fastening, it is important that the edge of the rear part overlaps the knife.

We make a parallel stop, fix it shown in the photo. When installing the stop, it is important to maintain a 90 ° angle between the table surface and the stop.

We are testing the received machine. Such a budget option for a jointer will be a great help in your workshop.

Basic safety rules when working on a jointing machine.

In view of the fact that the table is an equipment of increased danger, we consider it obligatory to focus on the safe rules of its operation.

1. The machine must always be securely fastened. If this is a mobile version, then two clamps are used as fasteners, if a stationary jointer is securely attached to the table with bolted joints.
2. Before starting work, it is necessary to check the reliability of the fastening of the knives and, if necessary, tighten them. Do not work with blunt knives, as you have to apply excessive force, and this can lead to injury.
3. A protective cover is required. It cannot be removed. To process workpieces, use all kinds of pushers, exclude work with your hands in the zone of rotation of the knives.
4. Excessive vibration, imbalance, runout and extraneous noise of the equipment are not allowed.
5. It is forbidden to work on the machine with gloves.

Jointer + planer planer: idea

Sometimes there is a need for a thickness gauge. Converting an electric plane into a planer is quite simple. Of course, if we are not talking about a potential machine tool, but about some hand-made device to obtain two parallel planes.

To make such a primitive machine, you need to spend a little time with the same amount of material. We divide the thicknesser manufacturing process into three stages.

Stage 1 Preparation of the base.

We take the board and fix it securely. On it, in the middle, in the size of the width of the planer knives, we attach two slats. The distance between them will be the maximum width of the processed parts. Along the width of the board, we fasten two strips with a length corresponding to the length of the planer.

Stage 2 Preparation of the tool.

To adapt the electric plane as a working tool of the future planer, it is necessary to remove the front part of the planer working surface and replace it with a sheet of plywood or OSB sheet. We fasten two strips along the width of the plywood with a length corresponding to the length of the planer.

Stage 3 Structural connection.

We use 4 strips as legs, which we connect with self-tapping screws to the strips on the tool and the base of the device. For convenience, you can apply a bolted connection using a furniture bolt with a wing nut. The processing size is set for the calibrated part.

This idea of ​​a thicknesser will not satisfy the needs of a carpentry workshop, but in a household with a single production it has the right to life.

Jointer from an electric plane with his own hand: advantages and disadvantages

The main advantage of a jointer made from an electric plane is its price. The materials needed to transform the tool are always at hand. The costs will be minimal, in contrast to the purchase of a new jointer. In addition, the mobility and now the versatility of the unit impresses. Another plus is the high cleanliness of the treated surface.

The final processing of wooden products on such equipment is a very interesting and, most importantly, a convenient task. The disadvantages of this design are that it has a small jointing width and a small length of the working surface.

It is worth considering in advance such important issues related to air purification in the workroom and the removal of sawdust.

For example, since the jointer is homemade, you can think of something like a bag for collecting sawdust, this will save you from fine wood dust, not completely, but still. The power tool not only speeds up certain operations, but also increases the amount of debris flying around the corners. The use of a vacuum cleaner will ensure maximum suction of chips from the working area.

Lighting also plays an important role when working with it. Machine with increased danger, therefore it is necessary to ensure sufficient luminous flux. It is best to carry out such work in the fresh air in daylight.

If the season or other conditions do not allow this, equip your workplace with maximum comfort.

And also you can watch a video of the jointer from the electric plane

Selected for you:

In the current age of innovative technologies in production, hand tools are rarely used, and in mass production of products they are not used at all. However, there have always been, are and will be craftsmen - cabinetmakers, for whom working with wood is not only part of the business, but also a favorite pastime.

It is always a pleasure for them to make a product with their own hands. Such specialists have a lot of hand carpentry tools in the workshop.

Introduction

Types of planers

A planer is a hand tool for processing wood, which allows you to bring the surface of the product with your own hands to the required quality and size. Having the whole set of types of this tool of labor, you can not only process the surface, but also make various joinery items.

The plane has a whole arsenal of types:

Flat planing:

• sherhebel;
• jointer;
• semi-jointer;
• bear;
• polisher;
• cinubel;
• end;
• single;
• double.

Figured planing:

• zenzubel;
• federgubel;
• falzebel;
• stacker or stacker;
• tongue and groove;
• mold;
• grunt;
• humpback.

Having the whole set of hand tools, if you wish, you can make works of wood of any complexity. At the same time, an important factor in successful work is the do-it-yourself sharpening of planer knives, which is an expensive production service.

From the curly planers, the zenzubel stands out with useful features. It is used for making grooves, quarters, stripping and trimming pins and cuts. The production of this type of instrument will be discussed.

The article describes an algorithm on how to make a plane with your own hands.

additional information

All of the above tools are standardized products. Therefore, in order for them to perform their work correctly and accurately, they must be manufactured in accordance with the requirements of GOST 15987-91. Below are extracts from GOST that define the basic requirements.

Materials (edit)

The list of required materials from which to make a manual plane with your own hands:

• ash;
• maple;
• hornbeam;
• white acacia;
• birch (allowed).

The wood must be well dried, free of knots, cracks and rot. Use waterproof glue to glue the parts together.

Requirements for the applied metal

The knives are made from the following types of double-layer steel:

• the main layer - from grade 30, GOST 1050, (U8, U8A, U9, GOST 1435 are allowed);
• cladding layer - of grades 9ХФ, 9Х5ВФ, Х6ВФ, 9ХС, GOST 5950.

It is allowed to use metal of other grades, but not worse than those given in the standard. Knives must be perfectly sharpened and have an appropriate sharpening angle.

Advice: in order for the surface to be processed to be of decent quality as a result of the work of the tool, it is advisable to have a device for sharpening the plane with your own hands in the workshop.

Preparation for work

To make a plane with your own hands, you need to prepare the following tools.

Equipment and tools

Name	Quantity
Ruler	1
Joiner's goniometer	1
Pencil	1
Surface gauge	1
Circular saw	1
Jigsaw	1
Drill	1
Drill, 10 mm	1
Jointing machine	1
Miter saw	1
Band-saw	1
Vertical drum grinding machine	1
Milling machine	1
Finger mill, 10 mm	1
Semicircular cutter	1
Chisel, hammer	1
Metal saw	1
Clamps	8

Materials and components

Name	Type and dimensions, mm	Quantity
Metal knife	According to the drawing	1
Light wood	Ash 270x100x25	1
Dark wood	Oak 200x80x15	1
Glue	Joiner's waterproof	1
Sandpaper	Grain 100, 500X100	1
Sandpaper	Grain 600-800, 500X100	1
Wood varnish	Colorless, waterproof	50 g

Description of the manufacturing process

The material of the heel, nose and sole of the planer is ash. The cheeks and wedge are oak. The thickness of the planer should be equal to the width of the knife blade, 20 mm.

Then you need to cut a hole for the arm. For this:

1. Using a drill, drill 10 mm holes for a file;
2. A cutout for the hand is made with an electric jigsaw along the marked contour;
3. The inner surface of the hole is processed on a grinding machine.

If the workshop has mastered such an operation as sharpening a plane with your own hands, then the angle of sharpening of the blade should be equal to 45 degrees so that the protruding cutting edge of the knife is parallel to the plane of the sole.

To do this, an oak blank is cut into two halves, and the surface and ribs are cleaned with a planer.

A cutout is made on the second cheek in the same way. A hole for a knife is cut out on both cheeks using a trimmer, a hacksaw and a chisel.

At the next stage, you need to glue all the parts into a single structure with your own hands. First, the nose and heel are glued to one cheek. To do this, carefully glue the parts with glue, apply and press with clamps. After drying, glue the second cheek on the opposite side.

After the glue dries, the workpiece is finally cut along the contour on a band saw and the outer and inner edges are manually processed on the grinding drum. All sharp edges of the planer workpiece are machined on both sides with a semicircular cutter on a milling machine.

Finally, it is required to carefully grind the entire planer blank by hand. Of particular importance is the quality of the sole, which is the working part of the tool. The purity of the workpiece depends on its condition.

The processing of the flat sides of the workpiece is done by hand, using sandpaper pressed against a perfectly flat surface. A planer plate is suitable for this. First, grind with 100-150 grit sandpaper. The sole is brought to the "mirror state" with a grain size of 600-800.

Important! In order to check the quality of the planer surface with your own hands, you can use the thinnest gap gauge. Compliance is checked on both sides of the sole.

The tool is covered with a waterproof colorless varnish, and the do-it-yourself planer is ready.

Conclusion

With this tool, in addition to making grooves and sampling of quarters, it is very convenient to perform fine cleaning of surfaces, trimming corners, which are difficult to cope with manually using a chisel.

For a better mastering of the manufacturing process, it is recommended to watch the video.

DIY planer video