Many owners of private houses do not know how to make a door to a cellar with their own hands or what the staircase leading there should be like. In this article, we will understand the basic requirements for the construction of the access door, we will try to choose the appropriate materials and design solutions.

Let's start with what we want from going down to the cellar:

• If we are talking about a horizontal hatch, it must be large enough... Remember: they do not go down into the cellar and go up from it empty-handed.

Hint: the minimum horizontal dimensions for a cramped room is 65x70 centimeters.
A slightly larger hatch - 90x90 will be comfortable for a person of solid dimensions.

• It is desirable that the staircase has a slope of no more than 60 degrees to the horizon and a step width of at least 15 cm... The presence of handrails is highly encouraged: losing your balance on a steep ladder with a load in your hands will be extremely unpleasant.
• The door for the cellar, regardless of its design, must provide maximum thermal insulation... The temperature regime inside the cellar and in the room above it (or outside, if we are building a separate room) varies greatly for most of the year.
• High vapor permeability is also undesirable.... You can often come across dubious advice that this structure, like the entire ceiling, must "breathe". However, in practice, the migration of steam from a warm room to a cold cellar in summer only leads to an increase in the amount of condensate in it.
• Moisture, however, is inevitable - some condensation is inevitable... Hence another requirement: the doors to the cellar and the box around them must not rot or rust.

Materials and design

So, taking into account all the above wishes, we will consider what materials can be used.

Wood

Preferred, of course, resistant to decay and dampness of the species: larch, oak, aspen. The door itself or knocked together from a board with a thickness of 25 millimeters; the box is assembled from a bar.

Tip: if you do not have woodworking machines at your disposal, the easiest way is to purchase a ready-made door frame and adjust it to the required dimensions.

For additional protection against decay, the wood is impregnated with an antiseptic primer, after it dries, the material will not interfere with proliferation 2-3 times or covered with polyurethane varnish resistant to high humidity.

To assemble the shield and box, it is better to use self-tapping screws rather than nails. Of course, stainless steel - yellow or silver. The board is pre-drilled with a smaller diameter and countersunk under the head of the self-tapping screw.In this case, you can not be afraid of cracks.

To hang the hatch, hidden hinges are used, for which recesses are selected in the box. The hinges, of course, are also taken only and exclusively stainless: black steel will quickly decorate the hatch cover with untidy drips.

How does the horizontal entrance to the cellar open?

More often than others, two simple solutions are used:

1. In the hatch cover, a groove with a width of about 5 centimeters is selected and half covered with a 3 mm duralumin or galvanized steel plate. The resulting improvised handle will allow you to lift the lid of moderate weight without discomfort.
2. For a thick oak lada (as the hatches into the cellar were traditionally called), the instructions are somewhat different. Here it is better to use a ring that is sunk into a shallow groove in a horizontal position.

Metal

A steel door is an ordinary steel door of the appropriate size. Its distinctive feature is completely hidden hinges, which will allow the wearer not to trip over the cover. Typical materials are a profiled pipe with a section of 20x40 mm and a steel sheet with a thickness of 3 mm.

The main problem with steel is its susceptibility to corrosion. How is it solved? The simplest way is two or three layers of paintwork. On top of the alkyd primer layer, any external enamel is applied.

Gaslifts

A simple device consisting of a cylinder filled with compressed air, a piston and a pair of mounting pads can greatly simplify the lifting of a massive lyada. The price of such a product starts at about 300 rubles.

The method of fastening is determined by the material of the hatch:

• For wood, ordinary stainless steel screws are used.
• For a professional pipe with walls of moderate thickness, it is easier to use a self-tapping screw for metal with a drill. It is screwed into the hole drilled with its own tip using a conventional screwdriver.

Warming and vapor barrier

A wooden exit from the cellar requires multilayer insulation with vapor and waterproofing.

1. On the underside of the lada, a block is stuffed inside the box, which will serve as a frame for the heat-insulating layer. It also fixes a layer of waterproofing material. Usually, ordinary polyethylene is used in this capacity.
2. Inside the frame, a layer of insulation is laid from a bar - foam, extruded polystyrene foam or mineral wool. The thickness of the insulation is usually 40-50 millimeters.
3. The insulation is covered with a vapor barrier.
4. Then the insulated frame is closed with a sheet of thin (4-5 mm) plywood on stainless self-tapping screws. Of course, plywood also needs protection from moisture - antiseptic treatment and impregnation with drying oil.

Insulated wooden lada.

The trapdoor transforms the basement into an isolated space so that no dog or cat can fall into it. If the hatch is equipped with a reliable lock, then vegetables or seals will not be stolen from your basement. In this article, we will talk about the different ways to insert a hatch into a basement. These methods depend on the material of the basement roof, as well as the tools and building skills available.

Manhole dimensions

There is no standard governing the size of the basement hatch, however, all hatches can be roughly divided into two types:

• with a straight staircase;
• with a slanting staircase.

The hatch is a passage in the roof of the basement, but the distance from it to the floor is 2–4 meters, so a ladder is indispensable. If a vertical staircase is installed in the basement, then you need a small hatch that will allow any family member with a bag or can in their hands to pass. If the staircase is installed obliquely, then a long hatch will be required, because the descent to the basement runs diagonally. The length of such a hatch can be up to 2 meters. A further increase in length does not make sense, because most basement stairs are installed at an angle of 45 degrees or more, that is, at a distance of 2 meters from the beginning of the hatch, the height will be at least 2 meters. Therefore, even a tall person will pass through such a hatch.

Material for the manufacture of the hatch

Planks and steel are best for making a hatch. A hatch made of boards is easier to manufacture and install, because you do not have to use a grinder and a welding machine. But the metal hatch is stronger, this is important if there is a possibility that homeless people are going to rob your basement. For a basement located inside the house, a wooden hatch is preferable - it is easy to make and no special strength is expected from it. After all, if an intruder enters the house, he will find something to profit from in addition to the basement. Another advantage of a wooden hatch is that it is much easier to finish so that it does not stand out on the floor.

Choosing a location for installation

When choosing a location for installing the hatch, it is necessary to take into account the structure of the floor and the movement of people. If the floor is made of wood, then the hatch can only be placed between the logs, because damage to even one log will lead to the floor sagging, squeaks and vibrations. If the floor is made of hollow core slabs, the hatch must be positioned at the junction of two slabs. If the hatch is long, then it must be placed along the slabs. Any other installation will severely weaken one of the slabs, which may result in its collapse.

In a monolithic reinforced concrete floor, the hatch can be placed anywhere, but the closer to the center, the better. The strength of the hatch is much less than the strength of the floor, so it should be installed in places where people go least often and do not put furniture. However, the smaller the hatch size, the less it is subject to this rule. Hatches up to 80x80 cm in size (length and width) with a powerful box and a rebate at least 25 mm wide can be installed even in the most walk-through places. To do this, the hatch cover will need to be made not from thin, but from a thick (over 40 mm) board

Manhole design

Any hatch consists of the following elements:

• boxes;
• doors;
• awnings;
• pens;
• castle.

The box is fixed to the floor and carries the entire load, therefore, in wooden hatches, it is made from planed boards with a thickness of at least 50 mm and a width of at least 150 mm. To create the box of the iron hatch, use a steel angle 50-60 mm in size.

Most often, in wooden hatches, the door is made of planed boards 20–25 mm thick. If the hatch is located in a passageway, then the door is made of a planed board 40-50 mm thick. In an iron hatch, the door is made of steel sheet 2-3 mm thick and reinforcements made of a corner with a shelf width of 30-40 mm. Any canopy can be used, as long as they can withstand the weight of the door with a guarantee. The handles can be both protruding and hidden or semi-hidden. Any window or door handles are suitable as protruding handles, and various rings are used as secret or semi-secret ones. As a lock, you can use both latches and mortise or padlocks.

How to make a sunroof

Any hatch must first be assembled, make sure it works, and only then cut into the floor. Otherwise, a situation is possible when you make a hole in the floor, and then you realize that you are missing something and will have to urgently look for what is missing. Therefore, we will tell you in detail how to make wooden and metal hatches and what to look for. The manufacture of any hatch must begin with the selection of materials and tools.

Wooden hatch

To make a wooden hatch, you will need to get materials:

• planed board 50x150 or 50x200 mm;
• planed boards 25 or 40 mm thick;
• window or door awnings;
• self-tapping screws;
• nails.

And the tools:

• milling machine;
• jigsaw;
• a circular saw;
• drill with a set of wood drills;
• screwdriver with a set of bits;
• hammer;
• square;
• chisels;
• award (special wood saw for delicate work);
• pencil.

A milling machine is only necessary for cutting the folds in the box boards, so if it is not there, visit the nearest carpentry or furniture workshop, where they will choose the folds of the required size for a small fee. The dimensions of the box should be 0.5–1 cm smaller than the dimensions of the opening. When marking the parts of the box, keep in mind that the vertical bars (by analogy with ordinary doors) on which the awnings are installed must be of full length, and the length of the horizontal bars must be calculated.

After all, their length should be less than the width of the box by twice the width of the rebate side. Having determined the size of the bars, start cutting the boards. To do this, first, using a square, draw a perpendicular line to one of the ends of the board, then cut the board strictly along the line. This operation is called trimming and is best done with a circular saw. Then measure the required length of the board, mark the mark and perpendicular line on it and cut with a circular saw.

Place a horizontal plank on the table and place vertical planks at its ends. Mark the line of the vertical planks, then cut the horizontal planks along the line with a reward (the depth of the notch is equal to the depth of the rebate) and carefully chisel the cut off with a chisel. This is necessary to create a level platform so that vertical and horizontal boards are tightly pressed against each other. Having processed all horizontal boards in this way, assemble the box, knocking it down with nails 100–120 mm long. Align the box, then slide it into the opening to make sure it is sized correctly. Then place the box on the table and cut into thin boards. They, too, must first be trimmed, and then cut to the desired length.

The length of the boards should be 2-3 mm less than the space for them. After that, lay the boards on a workbench or table to make a door of the desired width from them. Most likely, the width of the door will be wider than necessary, so one of the boards will have to be cut with a circular saw. To do this, mark the required width on the folded boards, which is 3-5 mm less than the inner rebate width of the box. Then draw a straight line parallel to the other edge of the door and cut the board along that line.

Place all door boards on the table and connect them with three boards in the shape of the letter Z, and the width of these boards should be 10 mm less than the inner width of the box, excluding the rebate. If you are making a door from a 20–25 mm board, then the length of the nails should be 70 mm. If from a board 35–40 thick, then the length of the nails should be 120 mm. The nails should go through both boards until they stop, then use the pliers to bend their tips at an angle of 90 degrees at a distance of 1 cm. Having bent the nails, support the caps with something and bend them so that the folded ends enter the wood.

This method of fastening is not only very reliable, but also as safe as possible, because no one will get injured by catching a sharp tip of a nail sticking out of the door. Slide the door into the box to make sure it goes in and out easily, then insert the box with the door into the opening prepared for it. If everything is ok, hang the door on the box and install the hatch in the opening. If the hatch with the door no longer matches the opening, check the door with a square, most likely you skewed it during assembly. To fix the door, you will have to unbend the nails, pull them out, then normally expose all the boards and hammer in the nails again, but in other places. If the door is of the correct shape, then you will have to trim the opening.

Iron hatch

To make it you will need:

• corner 50-60 mm;
• corner 20-30 mm;
• sheet metal 2-3 mm thick;
• window or door awnings.

Here is a list of the tools you need:

• grinder with various discs and a metal brush;
• welding inverter;
• drill with a set of drills for metal;
• square;
• tap.

Cut the horizontal and vertical elements of the box from a corner of 50-60 mm, and you need to cut at an angle of 45 degrees to make it easier to cook. Then fold all the blanks on the table, aligning them with a square and tack them together. Carefully place this blank box in the opening to make sure it fits properly. Expand or reshape the opening if necessary. Place the blank box on the table and boil it. Cut a door out of sheet metal, making sure that the door is 5 mm smaller than the inside of the box.

Make sure the door fits well into the box. Cut out 20-30 mm reinforcements from the corner and weld them to the door. Moreover, on the rear side, the vertical shelf of the corner should be flush with the door, and on the front side, flush with the door, there should be a horizontal shelf, and the vertical one should be behind it. Thanks to this design, the door will not cling to the box. In addition to 4 amplifiers around the perimeter of the door, weld also 2 amplifiers in the shape of the letter X. After that, hang the door on the box.

Installation

To attach the hatch to the opening in the vertical bars, the boxes are drilled, then fastened to the concrete with anchor bolts, and to the wooden floor with nails. For fastening to a hollow slab, we recommend the following method - punch 6–7 holes 5x5 cm in the slab wall, then pour thick concrete into them starting from the outer ones. After pouring concrete into the hole, plug it with a wooden plug. Then fill the next hole and plug again. So move from the outer holes to the center. Remove the wooden plugs after 24 hours. After 25-30 days, attach the hatch to the opening with anchors. If you want to cover the hatch with a finish so that it looks like the floor, then lower it to the thickness of the finishing material.

Output

Any person who is familiar with carpentry, plumbing or welding can independently install the hatch. After reading the article, you learned what is needed to create and install a hatch, as well as what is the order of work. Thanks to this, you can make a reliable and practical hatch that will protect your basement from unwanted intrusions.

The basement serves not only for storing food, but also acts as a utility room in which certain things are stored. The vast majority of modern basements are planned in such a way that the entrance to it is either invisible or decoratively decorated in accordance with the stylistic design of the door.

Peculiarities

Today, there are many options for ready-made designs of hatches for the cellar of various types. Installation can be carried out independently, depending on the complexity of the chosen design and the skills of the buyer.

Hatch doors are classified into three types and are classified according to the way they are opened.

1. Swing. The principle of operation is similar to a conventional entrance door - on one side the cover is fixed with hinges, and on the opposite side a lock or a simple latch is mounted.
2. Removable. These models are the cheapest and easiest to install. Such a door is simply superimposed on top of the hatch opening.
3. Sliding. This option is more applicable for a street cellar. Their principle of operation is to move the door along the guides.

The hatch finish also has a number of features to match laminate, floor tiles or linoleum. If the floors of the house are made of natural wood materials without additional coatings, then the choice of finishing material for the hatch cover is obvious. In the case of any complex finishing material, it is better to opt for aluminum and steel structures. Their appearance is similar to a shallow rectangular container. At the end of the installation work, its frame is filled with concrete mortar, and the completely dried surface is revetted under the required finish of the floor covering.

It is not difficult to manufacture and insulate a cellar with a staircase in a private house with your own hands if you follow the recommendations of experts. Do not forget to choose the right curtains for the device, lifting mechanism, manhole with easy lifting, multi-link elements.

There must be a hidden handle and a suitable lifting mechanism, as well as trimmed decorative elements.

Drawings and designs

When drawing up a drawing, several factors must be taken into account.

1. The location of the cellar hatch, which is chosen so as not to impede free movement in the room and does not touch the surrounding objects.
2. The most suitable hatch size in accordance with the required parameters. The minimum size for comfortable operation is 75 x 75 cm.
3. The material from which the hatch is made. It must be of high strength, but at the same time have a minimum weight.
4. Materials that will ensure the tightness and thermal insulation of this structure.

Cellar floor hatch covers are often equipped with additional smooth running systems. If there are small children or animals in the house, fixing devices are provided. In order to avoid all access to penetration into the cellar, the hatch is equipped with an electric drive.

Auxiliary Function Design Principles

Smooth running is designed to facilitate operation of the hatch. Its cover is equipped with shock absorbers, which provides smooth closure to prevent injury. When installing such a mechanism, the cover must be open. There are several ways to equip the lid with a smooth ride.

• The most popular is spring, which uses spring-loaded hinges like the hood of a car. It is suitable for light metal or wood manhole structures. The door lock is positioned so that it opens perpendicular to the floor.
• And also apply gas shock absorbers. Used for hatches with heavy doors.

As a rule, such hatches are equipped with folding, hidden or removable handles. The advantages of these options are that children are prevented from entering the basement. In the case of self-production, it is better to use simple, inexpensive options for which the use of metal products is not provided.

Electric drive structures. The electric drive is installed in several ways. To install the simplest option, you will need:

• electric motor;
• duralumin pipes;
• steel sheets;
• welding machine;
• grinder with cutting wheels;
• cable;
• current source;
• three position switch.

For the mechanism to work properly, the hatch cover must open less than 90 degrees. It is set in motion by a rotation system, opening or closing the lid with a rod. The control is carried out by a remote control.

The retractable system is more complex, but allows you to make the hatch cover almost invisible. Its installation will require:

• steel sheets 5 mm thick;
• two electric motors;
• metal rollers;
• three position switch;
• current source;
• cable.

A hatch for floor tiles requires the development of a drawing in which the parameters are displayed:

• width and length of the hatch box;
• frame and opening thickness;
• hinge arrangement

The installation of such a hatch requires an even base, therefore, a leveling screed is poured before installing it. To do this, you must perform several operations:

• Determine the level of the floor covering, taking into account a tile and adhesive thickness of approx. 12 mm.
• Prepare the solution and place the beacons.
• Flange the opening for the future hatch, leaving about 100 mm around its perimeter for the support for the cover.
• After the solution has hardened, a preliminary fitting of the hatch is carried out.
• Start tiling from a corner that is visible. The opening is finished after installing the frame for the hatch cover.

To design the ends, the following procedure must be observed:

• install the frame by aligning it, guided by the building level;
• fill all the gaps between the frame and the screed with a solution;
• after the mortar has completely hardened, the tiles are laid in the area around the opening, with the necessary adjustments and trimming of the tiles, for this, beacons are installed, then the cement mortar is poured and leveled;
• slopes are also tiled, until the adhesive layer dries completely, it is recommended to fix the tile with tape, having previously installed the delimiting crosses.

The procedure for installing and facing the hatch cover

The hatch is hinged using any of the above mechanisms. Then the finishing of the fixed lid begins. To do this, you can use floor tiles or other finishing materials. The main requirement is that its appearance is in harmony with the rest of the design of the room.

In wooden houses, hatches are usually not finished, but simply covered with linoleum or other material on top. For example, laminate flooring can be used.

How to do it?

To achieve the visual effect of the absence of a cellar hatch, its covering must fully correspond to the covering of the entire floor. That is, if it is a tree, then the hatch cover must also be of the same wood. Or if it is parquet, then the hatch, respectively, should look the same.

Standard cellar hatch. The hatch cover is made with a slight decrease in size, so that it completely fits into the opening of the basement passage. The resulting gaps should not exceed 5 mm. First of all, four supports from a bar are nailed to the wooden flooring, which will serve as a support for the cover. Blanks from a floorboard are made 80 cm each. Then a 79 x 79 cm square is cut out of plywood. A 1 cm gap is deposited between the hatch and the floor, this prevents deformation from moisture and temperature changes.

The lathing of the inner side of the hatch is made with short slats or slats 79 cm long. Parts made of wood must be covered with at least one layer of drying oil. This is done to protect them from moisture and fungus.

In height, the hatch must correspond to the rough and finish coating and consist of three layers:

1. plywood sheet, on which the lathing is stuffed;
2. insulation is placed in the space between the slats;
3. on the slats, fixing the insulation, a finishing layer from the board is stuffed;

Nailing the top layer is best done parallel to the floorboard. This design is lightweight, so it is suitable for mounting on ordinary hinges from the basement side with a gas closer. The plastic box has its advantages, but is more expensive.

The thickness of this entire structure should correspond to the thickness of the floorboard.

Metal construction should be sturdy compared to wood. It is problematic to make a cover for it yourself. For its manufacture, a base is cut from a steel sheet with a thickness of at least 3 mm. Along the perimeter of the base from the inside, corners are welded using a welding machine, on which stiffeners are attached. Insulation is located between them.

The entire total area of ​​the lid is divided into 4 equal parts. When working with metal, all seams must be cleaned. The width of the insulation must fully match the width of the corner. On top, the insulation layer is fixed with a sheet of steel or tin using self-tapping screws. For the manufacture of the entrance frame, the corner is cut into fragments according to the dimensions of the hatch hole. Further, the corners are welded to each other and fixed to the concrete with anchors, one of the sides of the frame will play the role of supports for the hatch. A seal is attached to its ledge to retain heat and protect it from excessive friction. The connection of the cover itself to the inlet frame is carried out by reinforced hinges with a gas spring. Floor tiles are ideal for kitchen furnishings.

The invention relates to the construction of highways, in particular to raising the hatches of the wells of underground utilities during the construction of new roads. The technical result is the creation of an accurate method for raising the manhole hatch during the construction of new roads, providing a dense and evenly distributed road surface around the hatch. The method of raising a road hatch during road construction is carried out in the following sequence: laying a slab for covering the well at the level of the roadbed, closing the neck of the well with a covering sheet, fixing the coordinates of the center of the hatch of the raised well, then laying the pavement layer on top of the hatch without raising the neck, setting the coordinates of the center of the raised well , drawing the boundaries of the tool, installing the tool, cutting out a cylindrical channel in the road surface with a chamfer along the top of the cylindrical channel, removing the cut fragment of the road surface, removing the cover sheet, raising the neck of the well with the installation of the hatch body under the mark in the level of the upper layer of the coating; filling the voids formed during the production process with a fast-hardening non-shrinking filler followed by pressing; device of asphalt concrete pavement with subsequent compaction. 6 p.p. f-ly, 5 dwg

Drawings to the RF patent 2459909

The invention relates to the construction of highways, in particular to raising the hatches of the wells of underground utilities during the construction of new roads.

Overview of the prior art.

According to the existing technology, during the construction of a new road, the hatch is raised by building up its neck and laying layers of the road surface around it with compaction of the road surface around the neck of the hatch, for example, with a road roller (see Guidelines for the design of city streets and roads. TsNIIP Urban Planning Gosgrazhdanstroy. .: STROYIZDAT, 1980).

The known technology has a significant drawback, which consists in the fact that a section of the road is formed around the hatch that is not accessible by the working body of the roller (dead zone), which cannot be tamped tightly (Fig. 1). As a result, the section of the road surface around the hatch neck settles over time, which leads to the destruction of both the road surface and the hatch neck.

To eliminate these phenomena, it is required to replace the hatch and road surface.

Various methods are known in the art for lifting a manhole opening.

There is a known method of raising the manhole hatch according to the utility model patent No. 1497. When repairing the road surface by building into the hatch body, a repair insert is placed in place of the hatch cover, which rests on the road surface being repaired with its circular support, after which the hatch cover is installed in the repair insert, and the repair layer of the road surface is laid. However, the known method is intended for use in road repair, it is not intended for raising the manhole hatch during the construction of a new road: the repair insert is made with developed supporting surfaces and is intended solely for its installation on the old roadbed.

There is a known method of replacing the neck and cover of a well according to RF patent No. 2268370.

The known method contains the steps of cutting the spherical part of the paved road around the specified neck and well cover, removing the specified cut spherical part, dismantling the cover and neck, installing a new neck, filling the hollow spherical space formed at the removal stage with a self-curing non-shrinking filler with a high degree of fluidity and stacking a surface layer material on top of said self-curing non-shrinking filler with a high flow rate without using roller compaction.

However, the known method is not intended to raise the manhole hatch during the construction of a new road. The sequence of actions when replacing the hatch neck according to the known method is the reverse sequence of actions when raising the hatch during the construction of a new road.

By the totality of features, the known method of lifting the hatch during road construction is adopted as the closest analogue.

The objective of the claimed invention is to improve the quality and service life of the road surface around the manhole hatch during the construction of new roads.

The technical result of the claimed invention is the creation of an accurate method of raising the manhole hatch during the construction of new roads, providing a dense and evenly distributed road surface around the hatch.

The essence of the invention.

The specified technical result is achieved by the fact that the inventive method of raising a road hatch during road construction, including laying layers of the road surface, building the neck of the hatch, tamping the road surface around the neck of the hatch, according to the invention is carried out in the following sequence: the neck of the well with a cover sheet, fixing the coordinates of the center of the hatch of the raised well, subsequent laying of the pavement layer on top of the hatch without raising the neck, placing the coordinates of the center of the raised well, drawing the boundaries of the tool, setting the tool, cutting out a cylindrical channel in the road surface with a chamfer at the top of the cylindrical channel, extracting the cut out fragment of the road surface, removing the cover sheet, raising the neck of the well with the installation of the hatch body under the mark in the level of the upper layer of the covering; filling the voids formed during the production process with a fast-hardening non-shrinking filler followed by pressing; device of asphalt concrete pavement with subsequent compaction. In this case, the closure of the neck of the well is performed with a round-shaped sheet of metal with internal stops against displacement and a floating handle for extraction.

In this case, the device of the road surface over the hatch is carried out by the device of a crushed stone base, the device of the lower layer of the coating of coarse-grained asphalt concrete, the device of the upper layer of the coating of fine-grained asphalt concrete.

In this case, the extension of the neck of the well is carried out with the help of concrete rings with installation on a cement mortar.

In this case, the filling of the voids is carried out with a concrete solution with a plasticizer.

In this case, pressing is carried out using a vibrator head.

At the same time, the asphalt concrete pavement is laid with hot dense fine-grained asphalt concrete mixture, followed by compaction with a vibrating plate.

The specified set of distinctive features is not known from the prior art and, therefore, the claimed technical solution is new. The solution also has an inventive step.

The invention is illustrated by the following drawings.

Fig. 1 is a diagram of the preparatory work for raising the hatch during road construction according to the claimed method.

Fig. 2 is a diagram of work on lifting the hatch before milling according to the claimed method.

Figure 3 is a diagram of work on lifting the hatch with milling according to the claimed method.

Figure 4 is a diagram of work on raising the neck of the well according to the claimed method.

Figure 5 is a diagram of the final stage of lifting the hatch according to the claimed method.

Disclosure of the essence of the invention.

As described above, the installation of the hatch during the construction of the road is accompanied by the formation of a section of the road around the hatch that is inaccessible by the working body of the roller (dead zone), which cannot be tamped tightly (Fig. 1) and, therefore, is subject to deformation and destruction. The smaller the size of the inaccessible area, the more durable and durable the road surface will be in this place. Reducing the size of the inaccessible area directly depends on the accuracy of raising the manhole hatch during the construction of new roads and the manufacture of a channel for it, which will provide a dense and evenly distributed road surface around the hatch.

The inventive method for raising a road hatch during road construction is as follows.

Preparatory stage (figure 1). At the level of the subgrade 1, according to the design documentation, the slab 2 of the well overlap is laid. The neck of the well is closed with sheet 3, mainly metal (steel), round in shape with recommended dimensions of 10 mm thick and 1000 mm in diameter. For ease of use, the cover sheet 3 can be provided with internal stops (not shown) against displacement and a floating recess handle (not shown). The cover sheet 3 must withstand the pressure generated by the downstream pavement device.

Then, geodetic work is carried out to determine the coordinates of the center of the well being raised using a tacheometer.

The stage of work on lifting the hatch before milling (Fig. 2). The pavement is laid on top of the hatch closed with sheet 3, without building up the hatch neck. The pavement device over the hatch may include a crushed stone base 4, a bottom layer 5 of a pavement of coarse-grained asphalt concrete, a top layer 6 of a pavement of fine-grained asphalt concrete.

Then, geodetic work is carried out to determine the coordinates of the center of the raised well, made at the preparatory stage.

With the help of a device - a dividing grid 7, which serves to determine the exact location of the cutter for the hatches, paint the working area of ​​the cutter.

A cutter (not shown) is set according to the coordinates of the center of the well with exact reference to the center of the well.

Stage of work on lifting the hatch with milling (Fig. 3). In the road surface, the cylindrical channel 8 is milled with a round mill, for example, the STEHR brand (Germany) using a front loader, for example, Bobkat S250.

Then the cut fragment is removed. Removing the cut out fragment of the road surface is carried out using an extractor, for example "Traglast". In the upper part of the cylindrical channel 8, a chamfer 9 is removed, with a height of at least 50 mm from the top of the coating. Chamfering on the top of the cylindrical hole ensures an even load distribution on the road surface and the manhole cover. In addition, the chamfer helps to fill the cavity with a quick-setting solution at a later stage. Execution of the channel 8 cylindrical allows you to ensure the required accuracy of raising the neck of the well. In the milled channel 8, the crushed stone base is disassembled and removed.

Stage of work on raising the neck of the well (Fig. 4). The cover sheet 3 is removed. The neck of the well is raised by building up with concrete rings 10, for example, the KO6 brand, installed on the cement mortar 11 to the desired level, so that there is enough height to install the manhole hatch.

The final stage of work on lifting the hatch (Fig. 5). With a grip, the shell of the hatch 13 is inserted under the level of the road surface (according to the project). The adjusting device (ring 12) is set exactly under the mark of the top layer of the coating.

The resulting cavity 14 between the outer wall of the well and the cylindrical channel 8 is filled with a fast-hardening non-shrinking filler, which can be a concrete solution with a plasticizer. For better penetration of the solution into hard-to-reach places, a vibrator head is used. Asphalt concrete pavement is being laid with hot dense fine-grained asphalt concrete mixture, followed by compaction with a vibrating plate.

The difference between the proposed method and the traditional one, chosen as a prototype, is that the hatch is closed with a layer of pavement without raising the neck. Above the well hatch (and not around it, as in the prototype), additional layers of road surface are laid, in which a cylindrical channel is then milled to precisely raise the well hatch to a given height.

The inventive method makes it possible to carry out work to raise the manhole hatch to a predetermined level, which cannot be done using known solutions. The exact binding of the coordinates of the cutter to the center of the hatch has been carried out, which makes it possible to provide a minimum cavity between the outer wall of the well and the channel, chamfering on the upper part of the cylindrical hole helps to fill the aforementioned cavity with quick-hardening mortar. In addition, the chamfer ensures an even load distribution on the road surface and the sunroof.

The inventive method allows to significantly improve the quality of the road surface around the hatches due to their precise installation and provision (dense and evenly distributed road surface around the hatches.

Sources of information

1. Guidelines for the design of city streets and roads. TsNIIP Urban Development Gosgrazhdanstroya. - M .: STROYIZDAT, 1980.

2. Patent for utility model No. 1497 Manhole of a well. IPC E02D 29/12. Published on 1/16/1996

3. Patent for invention No. 2266370 Method for replacing the neck and cover of a well. Published on December 20, 2005.

CLAIM

1. A method of raising a road hatch during road construction, including laying layers of the road surface, building up the neck of the hatch, tamping the road surface around the neck of the hatch, characterized in that the method is carried out in the following sequence: laying a slab for covering the well at the level of the roadbed, closing the neck of the well with a closing sheet, fixing the coordinates of the center of the hatch of the raised well, the subsequent laying of the pavement layer on top of the hatch without raising the neck, setting the coordinates of the center of the raised well, drawing the boundaries of the tool, setting the tool, cutting out a cylindrical channel in the road surface with a chamfer at the top of the cylindrical channel, extracting the cut fragment of the road coverings, removal of the cover sheet, raising the neck of the well with the installation of the hatch body under the mark in the level of the upper layer of the cover; filling the voids formed during the production process with a fast-hardening non-shrinking filler followed by pressing; device of asphalt concrete pavement with subsequent compaction.

2. A method according to claim 1, characterized in that the mouth of the well is closed with a round-shaped sheet of metal with internal stops against displacement and a floating handle for extraction.

3. The method according to claim 1, characterized in that the construction of the road pavement over the hatch is carried out by the device of crushed stone, the device of the lower layer of the pavement of coarse-grained asphalt concrete, the device of the upper layer of the pavement of the fine-grained asphalt concrete.

4. The method according to claim 1, characterized in that raising the neck of the well is carried out using concrete rings with installation on a cement mortar.

5. The method according to claim 1, characterized in that the filling of the voids is carried out with a concrete solution with a plasticizer.

6. The method according to claim 1, characterized in that pressing is carried out using a vibratory head.

7. The method according to claim 1, characterized in that the asphalt concrete pavement is laid with a hot dense fine-grained asphalt concrete mixture followed by compaction with a vibrating plate.

There are two main options for constructing a basement entrance - a door and a hatch. Each of them is suitable for a specific room. If we are talking about a basement, the entrance to which is located inside the house, most owners prefer a hatch.

Making it yourself is easy and pretty quick.

Before proceeding with its installation, let's decide for ourselves, do we really need a basement in the house? Will he be able to solve the tasks assigned to him and will he not be a heavy burden for us.

A basement is a room in which the floor is located below the ground level of the construction site by more than half the height of its walls. Otherwise, it will be the basement.

What affects the basement device

1. Hydrogeological conditions;
2. Soil type. For example, earthworks on rocky ground will be very expensive, since it is impossible to do without special equipment;
3. Ground water level. When this indicator exceeds the depth of the foundation, you will have to purchase expensive waterproofing.

Advantages

1. Creates an additional usable area in the house that can be used for storing things, preserving and food. Often, a workshop, a room for utilities, a wine cellar and others are located here.
2. Having arranged a basement under the main house, you no longer need to think about building an additional utility room on the territory, thereby keeping such expensive square meters of the site untouched by construction.
3. The basement allows you to always have a warm and dry floor on the first floor.
4. The owners get additional comfort, since they do not need to run to the annexe for groceries in bad weather, they can just go downstairs and take everything they need.

disadvantages

The only thing that can affect the decision of the basement device is its price. It can reach a quarter of all costs for a private house, which is a lot. This is due to expensive land work, for which you will have to hire special equipment.

You can do everything with your own hands, but this will require a lot of effort and time. In addition, a careful arrangement of the premises will be required, which includes waterproofing, interior decoration and the placement of the necessary shelves.

Basement entrance cover

Prepare materials and tools:

• sheet steel - at least 3-5 mm thick, otherwise it may collapse;
• metal corner;
• tin;
• welding machine;
• dense rubber;
• expanded polystyrene;
• screwdriver;
• self-tapping screws;
• roulette.

1. The cover must be made strictly according to the size of the shaft, so that it fits exactly back to back when closing. To do this, use a rubber seal that will protect the basement from air entering it, which can lead to an increase in temperature.
2. From above, it can be covered with the floor covering used in the room, or left as it is, having previously painted with paint to protect it from rust. Weld a corner to the bottom of the steel plate around the perimeter, providing additional rigidity to the structure.

Tip: Leave room for free play so that the lid fits snugly in place.

1. Lay insulation on the inside of the lid. For this, use foam, which is cut in such a way that it butts up to the inside of the corner.
2. Close the lid with a sheet of tin, bend it on the sides and fix it with self-tapping screws or screws.
3. Attach the basement hatch to the outer hinges. There is also an electric version of the lid closing-opening mechanism.

Electric drive

Unlike the previous version, when anyone can open the hatch, this design turns the basement into a safe. Unwanted visitors will not be able to get there at any desire. The design depends on how the drawings of the hatch to the basement are drawn up with their own hands, the skill of the performer and the financial capabilities of the customer.

The usual option

Prepare:

• electric motor;
• duralumin pipes;
• sheet steel;
• grinder with a circle for cutting metal;
• welding machine;
• electrical cable;
• three-position toggle switch;
• current source.

This option is considered the simplest, therefore it is used not for special protection of the cellar, but to simplify interaction with the hatch. Install the mechanism directly on the hinged cover.

Tip: never set the sunroof to 90 °, leave room for free return.

The operation of the structure is quite simple - you send a signal from the remote control to the electric motor, it starts to rotate and set the mechanism in motion. The lid rises upward thanks to the rod to an angle of 80 °, where it is locked by the automation.

You can close the hatch by pressing the second toggle switch on the remote control, which turns on the reverse rotation of the electric motor shaft and returns the rod to its place. Moving elements can be hidden behind light duralumin pipes or steel boxes. Even a beginner in this business can assemble the mechanism quite quickly.