Hello to all DIYers!

In everyday life, we all often have to use various extension cords. Moreover, if for the conditions of a street or a summer cottage extension cords with a long cable, several tens of meters long, are mainly used, then for premises (sheds, garages, workshops or at home), such extension cords are most often used with a block for three, four sockets and wire length from 3 to 5-7 meters.

From my own experience, I have found that when using such extension cords, it is best to hang them on the wall. In this case, neither the extension cord itself, nor its wire, as well as the wires of the electrical tools connected to it, will not interfere, as if you simply put the extension cord on the floor.

However, the problem is that not all manufacturers make overhang holes on the back wall of their extension blocks, thanks to which they can be hung on the wall.

For example, on this extension cord, there are such awnings.

And on this they are not.

Of course, you can make awnings on the back wall of the pads yourself by drilling holes in it. However, this is often dangerous as it can lead to electric shock and sometimes not very convenient.

I found a simple way out of this situation by making such wooden awnings from small planks on many of my extension cords.

Moreover, it is quite simple to make such a canopy.

To do this, from the materials you will need:

• two small screws;
• as well as a small plate, 10-12 mm thick, one and a half to two times longer than the length of the extension block and slightly wider.

Of the tools you will need:

• jigsaw with a file;
• an electric drill with a first drill for wood, with a diameter of 20-25 mm, and a drill for metal with a diameter of 4 mm;
• as well as a screwdriver.

The procedure for making a canopy

First, from one end of the blank board, in the center, you need to drill such a through hole with a feather drill on wood.

Then, stepping back a short distance from the edge of the circle of the previously drilled hole, drill another hole with a diameter of 4 mm.

The exact same hole must be drilled from the other end of the board.

In this case, the main thing is that the distance from the edge of the circle to the upper hole.

And from the end of the plate to the bottom hole were the same.

After that, using a jigsaw, you need to cut the grooves to the upper and lower holes.

And then you can round off the ends of the board, although this is not necessary.

The canopy board itself can be lightly sanded and painted or varnished, although this is also not necessary. Well, after that, all that remains is to fix the extension block on our canopy.
To do this, you need to disassemble the block into two parts by unscrewing the screws and removing the cover with sockets and terminals.

And at the ends of the rear wall of the shoe, you need to drill two holes with a diameter of 4 mm, and screw it with small screws to the canopy.

After that, the block can be assembled.

And now our extension cord with a canopy is ready!

Using an extension canopy at work

After that, it can be easily hung on the wall by screwing two screws into it. Moreover, you can hang the extension cord either vertically.

Or horizontally, which seems more convenient to me, especially for an extension cord with a switch.

By the way, this extension cord is constantly hanging on my porch wall, at the main outlet.
I must say that this is very convenient, since the main, rather powerful outlet, serves to connect a large load, for example, electric welding. And in the event that you need to connect several power tools, I just use this extension cord by connecting it to this outlet.

If this extension cord is needed elsewhere, it can be removed very quickly and then hung back.

So it is very convenient to use extension cords with such awnings!

Well, that's all for me! Good luck to everyone in the new year!

The increase in the number of devices for which it is necessary to install a connection point inside an industrial or residential building has led to the development of many ways to fix the cable to the wall both at the construction stage and in a long and solidly inhabited room. In various situations, you have to choose how to fix the wires on the wall so that they do not spoil the interior with their appearance, comply with electrical safety rules, and be protected from external influences of the environment and accidental damage. A significant aspect is the rational consumption of material and cost savings.

Types of wiring

The need to attach the wire to the wall is first considered in terms of the expected useful life. The power cables from the wire junction boxes are for long term use. Communication lines and television connections are of the temporary type, capable of changing their position if necessary.

Based on this, there are 2 types of laying of electrical communications:

• open wiring, when the line is fastened to the outer surface of structures and the entire network is available for inspection and partial repair;
• hidden wiring is laid in the wall materials (walled up) and is available for operations at the points of connection to it (sockets, connectors) or intermediate connections (boxes, shields).

If the hidden laying of the wire is made in corrugated or smooth pipes, then a subsequent quick one is possible in these areas.

An example of installation in smooth PVC pipes is shown in the photo series:

In technical rooms, such a wiring may not be covered with a layer of plaster, in residential apartments it is located under a layer of finishing.

Reinforced concrete factories even produce special types of panels with arranged inside the slab and design points of output to the connection boxes.

Influence of the base material

Another factor influencing the choice of methods for attaching the cable to the wall will be its design and materials of manufacture.

The load-bearing and internal walls of the building are erected in the following options:

• reinforced concrete panels;
• brickwork (solid, hollow, multi-layer, combined);
• wooden (logs / timber);
• bulk monolithic concrete;
• sip panels;
• frame-panel construction.

In each specific case, it is necessary to decide the question of which fasteners to use for the selected type of wiring.

Brickwork

The scheme and method of how to fix the cable on a brick wall is chosen based on the available tools and materials. Masonry, as a rule, is not left without a protective plaster coating, so the wiring will be of a closed type.

With a large amount of work, a punch and a grinder will be needed for leveling. Short sections can be cut manually with a chisel and hammer.

An example of laying wiring on a brick wall can be seen in the photo:

It is possible to reliably fix the adhesion of the wires to the wall by simple methods that do not require the cost of special fasteners: with a quick-drying solution (alabaster, plaster, glue), wire to hammered nails / screws, strips of tin + nails. The main condition is a reliable fastening without the possibility of displacement or sagging.

After finishing laying the cables, the channels will be in place. So that they do not affect the monolithic structure of the applied solution, the places of the recesses are covered with a reinforcing mesh.

Monolithic solid surfaces

The wires are attached to the concrete wall with dowels using an assembly gun or manually drilling holes for installing a plastic sleeve, to which a fixing bracket or clamp is screwed with a screw.

A variant of what the plastic fastener looks like is shown in the photo:

As fasteners, depending on the diameter of the cable (wire bundle), staples, perforated metal tape of industrial production and self-production are also used.

The use of an assembly gun on various types of fasteners for cables and corrugations on concrete is demonstrated in the video:

Laying in pipes

Monolithic concrete surfaces are not, the fastening of wires is performed on trays, in pipes or using corrugations. The routing can be left open, mounted inside the wall during its construction, or hidden under the finish. Sometimes, simplifying the work, the channels are cut into the slabs of the fixed formwork, but this solution leads to a violation of the uniformity of the thermal insulation protection of the house in the places where the material of the expanded polystyrene plates is removed.

The bore Ø of the various standardized products allows you to select the material in which the corresponding number of supply conductors can be laid. The characteristics of corrugated PVC pipes for laying power networks are presented in the table:

Before installing the corrugation according to the design scheme into the bulk wall, you need to thread a soft wire into it, so that you can easily start the wires later. If several cables need to be laid in one tube, diverging in different directions in intermediate fittings (tees, elbows, crosses), then the required number of wires are threaded in the directions, and the corresponding ends are marked in different colors (paint, colored tape).

If such preparation for pulling a soft core is not done in advance, then you will have to use a cable (about Ø 3 mm), which confidently passes into the pipe at a distance of 3 - 4 m. did not get stuck, did not damage it during the roll forward feed.

In conditions that do not require a strict aesthetic approach, in technical rooms for reliable protection of external wiring, a more rigid metal hose connecting the junction boxes (also metal) is used. The principle of attaching it to the wall does not differ from the plastic corrugation and is shown in the diagram:

In all cases (pipe, corrugation, metal hose), it is important to fix the cable outlet to the connectors of the attached box at an angle of 90 ° immovably, so the first fastener is placed at a distance of no more than 10 cm.

Walls of different density

Depending on the brand of wire and the material in which it will be installed, the mount for wires on the inner wall may have a different design.

In sufficiently strong plaster, when there is no need to fasten the corrugation, you can drill holes and hammer in staples - dowels with a wire previously inserted into them. A sample of such a fastener can be seen in the photo:

On wooden surfaces pressed from sawdust plates, various types of brackets and clamps are installed (as on concrete monoliths), in which screws and nails act as a retainer. Installation is quick by hand, and the construction gun replaces the electric screwdriver.

Thin wires for the Internet and telephone can be fixed on the drive. This is a special screw, which is partially screwed into the wall, and a thin conductor is screwed onto the protruding part with a knot.

For soft bases such as GKL sheets, plastic staples and clips are used, which are simply nailed down with small nails. The fastest in this case will be the use of special U - shaped staples and a construction stapler. Such brackets are designed for quick installation of the wire and have plastic stoppers so as not to transmit the current-carrying conductor.

They hide the wiring in the apartment using plastic skirting boards that have internal cavities that are closed by a decorative cover. It remains to mount the plinth and make the exit points to the sockets.

Plastic cable ducts are a popular way of fastening cables, combining the ease of laying open wiring and not being showy for viewing a closed type. A bundle of wires in a box covered with a lid is always available for inspection and switching changes. The channel is attached to the walls with screws, the cores inside it - with plastic ties.

The ducts and junction boxes for them are available in different standard sizes, you can always choose the appropriate brand for a specific network diagram. In appearance, such boxes on the walls of an office or home have become familiar and do not cause discomfort in the perception of the situation.

Click on the picture to enlarge. A great solution to get rid of the "charger" cables scattered all over the floor was proposed by a Japanese company: they created a socket with a rubber coated SocketDeer, to which deer antlers are attached! On these horns, you can put, for example, a mobile phone and plug its "charger" into an outlet. The cable can be wrapped around the horns so it does not hang down to the floor. A great travel solution, the Belkin Mini Surge tee allows you to take one USB charger with you on the go instead of several. In addition, this device provides you with additional power outlets and surge protection wherever you are: in a hotel room or at the airport. Mini Surge is equipped with three regular outlets and two USB ports through which you can recharge various devices. The Mini Surge can be rotated 360 degrees around its axis, which will make it convenient to place it in any working environment and not block other outlets. Woofy The price of this plastic dog just doesn't fit in your head! However, if you are looking for some sophisticated way to store cables, then perhaps Woofy will interest you. The cables hide in the "belly" of this almost half-meter dog, and are pulled out of its hind legs. On October 9, 2008, a video appeared on DL.TV site in which an anonymous viewer from Seattle brags about his incredible invention: a wireless office. You can watch the video. All cables are routed inside PVC boxes that form the contour of the table and go to a wall outlet. There are no wires above or below the table. Serious DIY project. The 40cm plastic box serves the same function as the Woofy but only costs $ 29.50. Of course, it's not as original as the $ 250 plastic dog, but inside this box you can hide a whole extension cord with all the dangling cables. Can't stick two power supplies side by side? The situation can be corrected with a rotating wall socket. It will take you 10 minutes to set this position, but then you can plug two bulky "chargers" into the outlet, which did not fit anywhere else, since you can fix them at an angle, and not directly on top of each other. Sometimes extra centimeters can play a big role. Such sockets have not yet been produced, but the idea is worthy of attention. How many times do you pull the plug out of the outlet (to save energy, free up space, or temporarily plug in another device) and drop it on the floor, where the cords get tangled and everyone stumbles over them? After all, it’s not safe. The way out is obvious: you just need to hang unused plugs on the holders of the sockets themselves. As soon as possible, such sockets would appear on sale! Some of the products presented in this review are a little strange, but SocketSense is a really practical thing. How convenient it is to use a model instead of a regular extension cord that can be pulled out (from 33 to 41 cm) to suit any fork configuration. For some users, the most important thing will be how this surge protector looks - completely ordinary, with six slots. If SocketSense looks like a completely normal upgrade to a standard surge protector, designed to allow you to connect more "chargers" of a non-standard size, then PowerSquid looks strange. But this makes a lot of sense. PowerSquid is highlighted in blue in the dark so that you can see where to plug the plugs under the table. Thanks to its flat shape, it can be hidden behind furniture. PowerSquid also protects the telephone line. And the most important thing: all the sockets are located on separate flexible wires, so they do not interfere with each other. The author of this idea has not yet found a manufacturer who would undertake to bring this project to life. The bottom line is to stretch the wires along the baseboard, but instead of attaching them to the wall, you can hide them behind a decorative fence: the cables are not visible, and at the same time they are easily accessible. A charging base for the whole family. Kangaroom will make sure that you always know where your phone, camera and other devices are: the Kangaroom splitter hides in a special box that is mounted on the wall in a prominent place. If your phone is in this charging base, then you will never lose either your phone or its charger.

Home Ideas: How to Hide Wires

Unfortunately, wireless technology has not yet become widespread in offices and homes. This means that in the near future a bunch of annoying wires on the table will not go anywhere. I'll show you a few tricks to clear out the clutter and keep your cables out of sight.

1. Hide the extension cord with chargers in the box

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An extension cord with chargers constantly gets in the way on the table or underfoot, collects a lot of dust, and looks unaesthetic. Dealing with this problem is very simple: take a nice box, poke a few holes in it and hide all the wires and cables there.

2. Fasten the wires under the countertop

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To secure the wires and extension cord under the table, you will need binders and screws (they should be at least a quarter less than the thickness of the tabletop in length, otherwise they will go right through and the table will be damaged). First of all, attach an extension cord under the tabletop, preferably in the middle of the table or closer to the wall. Then fix the binders in the right places with screws. Connect everything you need to the extension cord and collect the wires with clamps. Visually, the table has become much cleaner and more accurate.

There is an easier option if you don't need to hide a lot of wires. This will require a construction stapler. To prevent the long wire from the lamp from dangling under your feet, carefully secure it with paper clips at the table leg. The small extension can also be secured with staples. For thicker wires, it is better to use special clamps.

Don't you like staple clips? Regular screeds will do. Use cable ties to secure the wire to the table leg. The wires that run along the floor can be covered with plastic or a plank to match the floor. The extension can be fixed under the worktop with a wide Velcro: fix it to the back of the worktop with screws, and then attach the extension. To keep the wires from dangling under the table, run them through cable ducts - you can buy them at any hardware store. The canals themselves can be fixed with electrical tape or ordinary plaster.

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3. Organize cable storage

Correct organization of the wires will help to get rid of confusion in the wires. To get started, collect cords from phones, players, game consoles, tablets around the house. Then take the boxes (preferably prettier), place cardboard dividers inside them, sign the place for each cable (so that you do not get confused later) and arrange everything neatly. To avoid tangling the wires themselves, use regular cable ties.

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If you don't feel like messing with boxes, buy a basket and stock up on more toilet paper rolls.

4. Keep all necessary wires close at hand

We can not hide all cables in the box: we need some of them almost constantly. The solution is simple: attach them to the edge of your desktop so that you can reach out and connect the device to the desired wire if needed.

You are here now - home - All about repair:

When you are going to hang something on the wall, it is not a question at all!

You will need a hammer drill or hammer drill. A couple of dowels. Level, hammer, tape measure.

If this is a shelf or cabinet, then we put it in that place and roughly mark the level of the hole. Well, then it's quite simple, we measure the distance between the holes on the shelf or cabinet.

We mark under the first hole, take a level - draw, take a tape measure, set the distance. The intersection of a straight line in level and distance on a tape measure will be your second hole!

If there are several shelves or cabinets, then we do this:

We start, either from the extreme right point, or the extreme left point, drill, hammer in the dowel, tie the thread, level it. In the place where the person holds the thread, it is required to somehow fix it. Drilling and fixing to the dowel is possible only if the hole from the rough dowel is either hidden by a shelf or cabinet.

An ordinary dowel 6 x 40 will withstand at least 50 kg per cut, in a concrete wall. I think that you will not have more than 100 kg in one cabinet!

Why is all this, how to hang a shelf, or how to hang a cabinet is such a simple operation that it’s even somehow boring!

But here's what I wanted to tell you.

How to accurately hang the first time?

How to hang something with no direct access to its holes !?

Imagine a situation that you measured, hammered a nail, and missed the size, for various reasons, and it is already impossible to drill nearby !?

There was such a situation !?

Since I worked a lot both in construction and as a carpenter and joiner, I had to see a lot!

And often this very situation turned out to be practically insoluble the first time!

But there is a way that is ingenious, like the simplest things! And I remembered this method when it became necessary to hang an extension cord!

Hang the extension cable for your computer on the back of your desk the first time and exactly where you need it! The top table top extends slightly beyond the back panel, so we have a limiter!

We need to make a template.

1.Select self-tapping screws so that they fit freely into the hole of the hanger.

2. In this case, I had a thin cardboard lying around.

ATTACHING THE EXTENSION

It is more convenient than a simple sheet, because the screws will hold better there.

3.Insert self-tapping screws and move them to the extreme point of the hanger,

4. We take the cardboard, and aligning on one of the sides, press on the cardboard so that the screws appear on our side.

5. We take out the cardboard with self-tapping screws, put it in the place where our object should be located, in this case the extension cord.

6. We wrap the screws, tear out the cardboard, adjust the screws in height.

7. We put on the extension cord.

Here's what we got, fast, simple, accurate and the first time! The story turned out to be 10 times longer than the process itself !!!

How to hang up a router.

Using absolutely the same technology, we will attach the router in the place where it is needed on the back panel, or on the wall, but the first time.

In this case, plain paper was used as a template!

Here is our router hanging on the back of the table! Very simply cheap and cheerful!

Before installing electrical wiring in a new apartment or before replacing the wiring during a major overhaul, any owner is faced with a choice of how many and what outlets he needs to install in each room. In modern apartments, sockets are rarely installed one at a time, usually two, three, and in some cases even four electrical outlets are placed side by side. For example, at a workplace with a computer, it is better to install 3-4 sockets, otherwise you will not be able to do without an extension cord.

Practice shows that there are never too many sockets. If we need to install two sockets side by side, then we have a choice - to install two single electrical outlets in a two-post frame or one double electrical outlet. The Florence series features double sockets and multi-post frames, so both options can be implemented. What should you choose?

• Double sockets are designed to instead of one old socket, one double socket could be installed into the existing socket.

  Home Ideas: How to Hide Wires

  This allows you to double the number of outlets for a cosmetic renovation of the apartment. For this, double sockets have been developed.

• The price of a double socket is less than the price of two single sockets in a two-post frame, let us make sure of this using the example of white or beige sockets of the Florence series.

1. Price calculation for two single sockets in a two-post frame

2. Calculation of the price for the alternative - for a double socket

You can mount the wiring so that powerful electrical appliances are connected to each single outlet, i.e. so that a current of up to 16 A flows through each. But for this, it is necessary that the sockets be either powered through two separate lines with cables of the usual cross-section for connecting outlets (2.5 mm2), or powered in series through a cable with an increased cross-section. As a result, it is possible to achieve that the total maximum current, which can flow through two single electrical outlets, would be 32A. This cannot be done by installing a double electrical outlet.

Summing up, we can say that double sockets are irreplaceable if we are faced with the task of increasing the number of outlets in the pre-installed socket boxes. Basically, this is relevant when replacing outlets in the process of cosmetic repairs, if the wiring is not being replaced with the installation of new socket outlets. Single sockets under the multi-post frame look more aesthetically pleasing than double sockets and give you more freedom of choice. This option is suitable for a major overhaul of an apartment with replacement of wiring or for furnishing an apartment without finishing in a new building.