The attic floor under the roof of a private house has long been successfully used as a living area, regardless of the season. Moreover, such premises are in great demand, since they give their owners a certain privacy along with complete comfort. In this material, we will talk about how to insulate an attic room, describe the main stages of work, as well as what materials will be required in this case.

Since the attic is considered a full-fledged living space, there are a number of arguments in favor of insulating it:

• the presence of additional full-fledged living space in the house;
• reduction of heat loss through the space under the roof;
• saving materials for the construction of a separate floor;
• stylish exterior of the house.

Of course, attic rooms have some disadvantages, among which are the wrong relief of ceilings and walls, as well as the need for additional insulation work. However, if you approach the process creatively, all the shortcomings can be compensated for.

Preliminary work

All attic rooms are characterized by a slanting ceiling. In this case, the height of such a floor should start from 2.5 m. Such standards are specified in SNiP 2.08.01-89 "Residential buildings". Small deviations from the norm are permissible only in areas the size of which does not exceed 50% of the area of ​​the room.

The attic has the following characteristics:

• There is a direct relationship between the material from which the building is erected (brick, aerated concrete or wood), and the size of the heat loss.
• Communications in the attic will be located in the same places as on the lower floors. Therefore, the organization of the space will depend on this.
• In shape, the roof of the attic can be single, gable or broken.
• The supporting structures inside the attic room can be wood, reinforced concrete or metal.
• The size of the attic will be the same as the area of ​​the house. If the walls go beyond the boundaries of the main building, then special supports are installed under them or a cantilever removal of the ceiling between the floors is made. Read also: "".

Therefore, when deciding how to insulate a mansard roof with your own hands, you need to proceed from the described characteristics.

As a rule, insulation work in apartments and private houses is carried out from the outside of the building in order to move the freezing point outside. Nevertheless, insulating the attic of a house from the inside is a fairly common practice, since all surfaces requiring sheathing with insulating material are located inside. This means not only the roof of the attic, but also the insulation of the attic: floor, walls. The only exception is the pediment. And its insulation is carried out simultaneously with the entire building, or in the process of laying the attic insulation.

Conditions for performing thermal insulation

There are two conditions that will affect the amount of heat loss and the comfort of staying in the attic:

• The type of insulation material, which will determine how quickly heat can leave the room.
• The presence of a waterproofing film. This layer will prevent moisture from penetrating the insulation from the space under the roof and under the floor.

The best options for insulating materials for the attic

To insulate the attic from the inside with your own hands, you can take almost any material about which there is positive feedback. In particular, the greatest demand is for polyurethane foam, cotton wool or foam, as well as their analogues.

Nevertheless, when choosing an attic insulation from the inside, it is worth taking into account the practical construction skills of the performer, as well as the characteristics of a particular residential building.

Materials for internal insulation of the attic room

There are many different materials that can be used to insulate the attic roof from the inside with your own hands, and to finish it. The installation method for each of them depends on their characteristics.

The following types can be attributed to soft materials for thermal insulation:

• Mineral wool... In combination with this insulation, it is necessary to use high-quality waterproofing films that will compensate for the hygroscopicity of mineral wool. To avoid sagging pieces of cotton wool, it must be securely fixed and use a material with a denser structure. Since mineral wool is environmentally friendly, it is most often used for thermal insulation of attics.
• Glass wool... This type of material is considered environmentally unsafe, and also quite problematic in terms of installation. For these reasons, it is rarely used.
• Penofol... This type of insulation is used in rooms where it is necessary to preserve the height as much as possible. Penofol should be laid with the foil side inside the room.

Among the tough insulation materials are:

• Styrofoam... Although it is quite simple to insulate the attic with your own hands using foam plastic, it will not work to lay it tightly to the crate. Consequently, gaps are formed, which lead to heat loss. The disadvantages of the material include flammability, as well as toxicity during combustion. Moreover, it is practically vapor-tight. The high demand for this thermal insulation material is due to its low cost.
• Expanded polystyrene or penoplex... This material is similar to foam and the only difference between the two is in the fasteners. Such special fasteners, in essence, do not improve the thermal insulation properties of the material, however, it is somewhat denser than foam.

If we consider the question of the optimal version of insulating materials for a wooden attic, then it is better to opt for breathable soft insulation.

Insulation of the attic wall can also be performed with sprayed types of heat insulators:

• Ecowool... The insulation contains 20% wood chips and 80% cellulose. This material is considered absolutely environmentally friendly, and it is especially appreciated for the presence of a natural antiseptic in the composition.
• Polyurethane foam (PPU).

The cost of spraying insulation materials is quite high. In addition, special equipment is required for their application. However, the quality of the insulating layer is at a very high level, since the material penetrates into all cracks and prevents heat leakage.

Please note that the thickness of the insulation layer will depend on several factors: the height of the attic, the type of roofing, the type of insulation material and its location, as well as the presence of a heating system.

It is worth noting that the best material to insulate the attic roof from the inside with your own hands, provided that the chimney passes through it, will be basalt wool. Its melting point is 1000 ℃, it does not smolder or melt.

Materials for hydro and vapor barrier

To insulate the roof of the attic from the inside with your own hands, mineral wool is mainly used, which tends to accumulate moisture. If you do not protect the material with films for vapor and waterproofing, it will quickly get wet and cease to perform its functions.

To insulate the material for insulation use:

• Izospan Is a two-layer vapor barrier membrane, the rough surface of which allows condensation to be retained.
• Polyethylene- a film that performs a waterproofing function, but does not allow steam to pass through - the cheapest of the materials.
• Waterproofing membrane... Quite often you can find roofing membranes that serve for waterproofing and at the same time are vapor permeable.
• Penofol... Insulating material with a foil-coated waterproofing layer.

Technique for performing insulation from the inside of the attic

In general, the technology of insulating the attic from the inside includes several stages:

1. Roof insulation works.
2. Laying insulation on the ceiling.
3. Thermal insulation of the floor.
4. Wall insulation.

It is worth noting that internal insulation works are carried out in cases where the roof has already been laid on the roof (read also: ""). Let's dwell in more detail on each of the stages of work.

Do-it-yourself thermal insulation of the attic roof

The main requirement for the roof covering is its absolute tightness so that water does not seep into the space under the roof. The level of heat loss, as a rule, does not depend on the type of roofing material - by itself, it does not perform thermal insulation functions. In this regard, first of all, we insulate the attic roof with our own hands.

We will describe in detail the technology of insulation of the attic roof.

First of all, a waterproofing film or membrane is mounted. It will not allow moisture to penetrate into the insulation layer, but will not interfere with the removal of steam from it. The film is fixed along the entire length of the roof from the eaves to the ridge girder so that water or condensate flows outwards along it. Before installing the film, wooden structures of the truss system must be treated with a deep penetration primer.

A crate is attached on top of the vapor barrier, which creates a ventilation gap.

The cotton wool is laid strictly end-to-end to the beams or profiles, without any gaps. If the width of the material is not enough to fill the space, an additional piece is cut out.

Please note that due to the high density of mineral wool mats, it is better to use it rather than roll materials. In addition, the pieces are stacked in a double layer with an offset. Additionally, you can fix the insulation with nails or a cord. We recommend to fill the jumpers between the vertical battens of the battens in cases where the length of the slope exceeds 3 m in order to avoid cotton wool slipping.

At the next stage, a vapor barrier is attached. It prevents steam from penetrating inside the insulation. It is advisable to periodically ventilate the premises to regulate the humidity level.

Some builders insulate the truss system with a thin insulation material placed between the membrane and the finish.

In the process of laying vapor barrier and insulation, make sure that the layers are tightly adjacent to window frames, walls, ridge girders, valleys and other elements.

The finish is usually made of MDF, drywall, lining or edged board. It is attached to a profile frame or rafters.

We insulate the attic floor

The method of insulating the attic floor from the inside with your own hands will depend on the type of floor used.

In reality, the overlap can be of the following varieties:

1. Reinforced concrete with self-leveling floors... In this case, you will need to lay the most durable and high-quality heat insulator. Experts advise looking at the side of styrofoam or styrofoam.
2. Reinforced concrete with wood floors... In the case of this type of overlap, you can use both a rigid type of insulation and resort to laying basalt fiber.
3. Overlapping from wooden beams... Such an overlap will need to be covered without fail with a subfloor, on top of which it will be necessary to lay insulation, and after that, equip a finishing floor. Any type of insulation can be used as insulation, even expanded clay or sawdust.

In any case, do not forget to lay membranes or films of vapor barrier (bottom) and moisture insulation (top), the only exception is expanded clay.

How to insulate the walls of the attic

If the walls of the attic are formed by the slopes of the roof, then you do not need to do the insulation of the walls of the attic from the inside with your own hands, since the roof has already been insulated. If the walls were erected from any other building material, then they will need to be insulated. The wall insulation methodology is the same as for ceiling insulation. Quite often, wall insulation is achieved through the use of cellular foam concrete. In this case, there is no need to apply a layer of steam and hydro-barrier, as well as to make a crate.

The gable of the attic can be insulated both from the outside and from the inside.

Finally

Obviously, the attic insulation is not a difficult process, so you can handle the entire list of work on your own, saving a significant part of the money. In addition, in this case, you will be 100% sure that the entire sequence of work will be carried out in strict compliance with the construction technology.

Every year more and more of our compatriots are tempted to equip a residential attic in their home. This makes it possible to expand the living space and adds some romance to the overall concept of the house, especially if dormers are installed. Almost all new country houses are initially built with an attic, but even in old houses, cold attics are remade, insulated, heated and equipped by compassionate owners. In order to keep warm and dry in the attic in winter, cool in summer and materials to serve for a long time, it is necessary to understand the very essence of the attic floor insulation technology and understand the processes taking place in it. It is not difficult to insulate the attic roof with your own hands, all the work is quite simple, you only need a partner and a tool. The main thing is to do everything right, then the heat-insulating material will last a long time, the wood of the rafters will not get wet and will not rot, and as a result, you will not need a quick overhaul.

Why is it necessary to insulate the attic roof

The attic is a special room, its walls are almost closely drawn to the roof surface and the ventilation gaps are no more than 10-15 cm. That is why the attic cools down quickly in winter and heats up in summer. The entire roof area acts as a storage area for solar heat in summer, while most of the heat in winter is emitted through it. This is due to the thermal conductivity of the materials from which it is made and the ventilation. For example, in winter, the heat coming from heating radiators rises up, spreads under the roof arch and safely evaporates, since the roof material has a high thermal conductivity. At the same time, the snow melts, turns into ice and destroys the roofing material. And in summer, the surface of the roof heats up and transfers heat to the entire structure, as a result, even the air becomes hot and stale. Even two air conditioners cannot cope with such a problem.

In a house with a classic cold attic, the situation is completely different. In it, the function of a heat insulator is performed by snow on the roof in winter and air in the attic. Fill-in thermal insulation materials on the floor of the attic plus the air trapped in the attic space perfectly keep the heat coming from the side of the heated living space. As a result, even in the most severe winters, the temperature in the attic does not drop below 0 ° C - -2 ° C. Thanks to this, the snow on the roof does not melt and serves as an additional heat insulator. In summer, the air temperature in the attic can be regulated by opening and closing the windows in the gables; in fact, this is a real ventilation that removes excess heat from the attic, preventing overheating of the structural elements of the roof.

What to do with the attic? It is necessary to carefully insulate the room, choosing the right material, its thickness, place of installation and adhere to the technology. For example, if you use an insulation of insufficient thickness - by eye, then it may not be enough, the snow will melt, and soon you will have to rewrite the roofing material, since the old one will become completely unusable. A sufficient width of the insulation will allow you to completely isolate the attic from the roof, and well-executed ventilation will remove excess moisture and condensate from the under-roof space. But first things first.

Materials for insulating the attic roof

Choosing the best thermal insulation material for insulating a mansard roof is a very important task. The type of insulation determines how thick the "cake" of insulation and the number of layers in it will be. Due to the specifics of the place where the material will be applied, certain requirements are imposed on it:

• Low heat conductivity. It is advisable to take material with a coefficient below 0.05 W / m * K.
• Low moisture permeability. Due to the fact that the roof can leak, the insulation material should be moisture resistant and, if possible, not get wet or not lose its properties when wet. If this condition cannot be met, then the insulation must be waterproofed, excluding wetting.
• The low weight of the insulation is extremely important in order not to overload the roof structure. You can determine the weight of a material by its density. To insulate the attic, you can use mineral wool insulation with a density of 45 - 50 kg / m3, fiberglass - with a density of 14 kg / m3. Heavier slab options (200 kg / m2) will not work.
• Fire safety. It is desirable that the material does not burn or sustain combustion.
• Ability to keep in shape. Since the place of laying the insulation is unusual - between the rafters at an angle, then over time, light roll materials based on mineral fiber can slide down, leaving large gaps at the top - empty spaces. Therefore, it is important to choose a material that will retain its shape and size for a long time.
• Resistant to severe frost, temperature extremes and the ability to withstand multiple changes of defrost / freeze cycles.
• Durability.

The thickness of the insulation for the attic is calculated for each case individually. This can be done using a dedicated online calculator. For the calculation, it is necessary to indicate the region of construction, the thickness of the walls of the house and their material, the thickness and material of the insulation of the walls, the thickness and material of the floors of the house, as well as the thickness and material of the insulation of the floors. All this is extremely important for calculating heat loss, on the basis of which the thickness of the insulation is selected. If you pick it up "by eye", then in most cases a layer of mineral wool with a layer of 250 mm is enough.

Consider the most popular materials that are used to insulate mansard roofs.

Mineral wool or glass wool- one of the most successful solutions for insulating the attic from the inside, although not ideal. Mineral wool fits perfectly into the space between the rafters, leaving no gaps, does not burn and does not support combustion, weighs little and serves as an excellent heat insulator. The slab positions of basalt wool keep their shape perfectly. But at the same time, it absorbs moisture quite strongly, like any cotton wool, therefore, waterproofing from the side of the roof and vapor barrier from the side of the dwelling are required, since the vapor of the mineral wool also absorbs well. Wet mineral wool loses up to 60% of its properties irrevocably, and its complete replacement is required. In addition, over time, it cakes and crumbles, poorly withstands mechanical stress.

Nevertheless, mineral wool remains one of the best materials for insulating an attic roof with your own hands. It is inexpensive, easy to work with, and adherence to the correct technology will allow you to neutralize its shortcomings. For different regions, the thickness of the insulation is calculated individually, but the minimum layer of mineral wool for the middle zone of the Russian Federation is 150 mm, in colder regions the thickness must be increased to 250 - 300 mm.

Expanded polystyrene or Styrofoam- an extremely popular material on the market, with which they are trying to insulate everything, and what is possible and what is not worth it. Against the background of the seemingly ideal characteristics - low thermal conductivity, negligible weight, moisture resistance and rigid shape, the foam has significant drawbacks. Firstly, different brands of expanded polystyrene have varying degrees of fire safety from G1 to G4. And as practice has shown, for some reason they use combustible foam G3 - G4 for insulation, which can end very badly. After all, the fire spreads upward, if the attic insulation material catches fire, it will be unrealistic to survive in it. Secondly, working with foam is not very convenient, since it crumbles during cutting and installation, there are gaps between the rafters, which have to be closed up in all sorts of clever ways. Thirdly, the foam begins to crumble and collapse over time. Considering all the disadvantages, insulation of the attic roof with foam is not worth doing. This material can only be used in those areas where it will be hidden behind a floor screed or a layer of plaster.

Extruded polystyrene foam- an excellent material for insulating the attic from the outside, i.e. if you lay it on the rafters under the roofing material. It is strong enough, not afraid of moisture, does not burn, keeps its shape perfectly. And what is important - its very small layer is required from 50 to 100 mm.

Polyurethane foam- a modern material that is blown out with the help of a special installation, without leaving the slightest gaps or gaps. This is an indisputable plus, especially since with such a spraying it is easy to avoid cold bridges in the form of rafter legs. Polyurethane foam is not afraid of moisture, does not burn, weighs little and keeps its shape perfectly. But he has another drawback - low vapor permeability, he practically does not "breathe" at all. This means that the attic room will always be unpleasantly humid if you do not equip forced ventilation.

Ecowool- one of the most ideal options in the question of how best to insulate the attic roof. It also blows into all cracks, is not afraid of moisture, practically does not burn, weighs little, "breathes" and, most importantly, is absolutely environmentally friendly, unlike all other materials. Its fumes or accidental particles are not capable of causing harm, unlike mineral wool.

When choosing insulation for a mansard roof, pay attention not only to the characteristics of the material itself, but also to the purely design features of its use. For example, laying mineral wool between the rafters allows, if necessary, to disassemble the "cake" of insulation and check the condition of the rafters, repair them, and then the mineral wool slabs can be easily put in place. If you spray polyurethane foam into the space between the rafters, then the rafters become practically inaccessible for revision. So everything needs to be treated wisely.

How to properly insulate a mansard roof from the inside

The most common way to insulate the attic is from the inside, if space permits or there are no other contraindications. To do this, use mineral wool-based insulation, glass wool and, less often, extruded polystyrene foam. Even less often, polyurethane foam or ecowool is blown out.

Insulation scheme for the attic roof from the inside

Compliance with the correct "pie" of the attic roof insulation is the key to the durability of the materials and the comfort of living in the attic.

Mansard roof insulation cake (from the inside to the outside):

• Finishing material.
• Vapor barrier membrane.
• Insulation - mineral wool or glass wool.
• A waterproofing membrane that releases steam and does not allow moisture to pass through.
• Ventilation gap with crate.
• Roofing material.

Vapor barrier film must be used if wadded materials are used as insulation. So the mineral wool can be protected from the damp fumes of the living space. If, instead of mineral wool, polyurethane foam or ecowool is used, then a vapor barrier is not needed.

Waterproofing is needed in any case, regardless of the insulation used, it will protect the wooden elements of the roof structure. As waterproofing, it is necessary to use superdiffusion membranes capable of releasing steam to the outside and not allowing moisture to pass inside. A ventilation gap of 4 to 10 cm is required between the waterproofing film and the roofing material, depending on the type of roof. Excess steam from the insulation will come out through it.

Laying insulation between the rafters of the attic roof

It is better to insulate the attic roof from the inside at the stage of building a house. Then all stages of work will be performed correctly. Before starting insulation, it is necessary to determine where we will insulate. To do this, draw a drawing of the attic with exact dimensions and mark where the interior space will be finished. For example, if the living space will occupy the entire area, including the roof slope up to the overlap, then the entire roof slope must be insulated. If the room is, as it were, cut off, i.e. there will be free space below between the slope and the interior decoration, then it will be necessary to insulate it strictly according to the drawn scheme, leaving free space for ventilation. But then, in narrow areas near the very edge of the roof, it will be necessary to insulate the floor.

Consider the option of warming the entire roof slope:

• Even at the construction stage, before laying the roofing material, it is necessary to waterproof the roof. To do this, we lay a waterproofing membrane on top of the rafters, starting from the bottom up, making an overlap of at least 15 cm and gluing the joints with self-adhesive tapes. The film must be spread not in tightness so that it does not break when frosts come. It must be laid with a sag of no more than 2 cm per 1 m. We nail the waterproofing to the rafters with a construction stapler. If this is not the case, then you can use galvanized nails with a wide head.
• From above we nail a crate of wooden bars. Their thickness is selected depending on the required size of the ventilation gap, at least 2.5 cm. We fix the crate with corrosion-resistant self-tapping screws. In order not to injure the film once again, we make holes in the bars in advance.

Important! For greater reliability, you can make two ventilation gaps: between the insulation and the waterproofing, between the waterproofing and the roof. This will protect the material from getting wet if condensation suddenly accumulates on the film.

• We lay roofing material on the crate - tiles, corrugated board, slate, metal. For the installation of a soft roof, you first need to nail sheets of chipboard or moisture-resistant plywood on top of the crate, which will serve as the basis for fastening.

• Work moves into the attic. We unpack the insulation - mineral wool and let it lie down and straighten. Cut into the required pieces. The width should be 20 - 30 mm greater than the distance between the rafters, so that the canvases are kept "at the edge".

• We push the sheets of insulation into the space between the rafters. We press on the middle of the canvas, and the edges straighten themselves. The rafter thickness should be 200 - 250 mm.

Important! It is convenient to select the step between the rafters to the size of the future insulation. Rolls are sold with a width of 1200 mm. The step can be made 1200 mm or 600 mm, then the roll will need to be cut in half.

• On top of the insulation, we lay a vapor barrier material with an overlap of 10 cm, glue the joints with tape. We fix it to the rafters with staples or using a lathing.
• We fill the crate of 25 mm thick slats.
• We fix the finishing material on the slats.

This completes the insulation. For a more illustrative example, you can watch the video of the mansard roof insulation.

If you are planning to insulate the attic in an old or already built house and do not want to remove the roofing material, then you can cheat a little. The waterproofing film can be spread inside the attic, wrapping the rafters with it and leading into the space between them. But in this case, the wooden rafters are unprotected in the event of leaks.

Laying insulation under the rafters of the attic roof

A little less often, the method of insulation is used, when the material is laid inside the attic on top of the rafters, and not in the space between them. The main reason is that you can avoid cold bridges, which are wooden rafters. And so the tight fit of the thermal insulation material will ensure that there are no gaps, and the free space between the rafters will serve as additional ventilation. A very good solution if the attic space allows you to reduce it by at least 30 cm on each side.

Insulation of the attic from the inside of the room:

• From the inside, we nail a waterproofing membrane onto the rafters.
• We attach plasterboard ceiling hangers to the rafters so that with their U-shaped hole they look at each other.

• We put insulation in the suspensions. We cut the canvases with a slight overlap in order to exclude the appearance of cracks. As a result, you should get a solid sheet of insulation. We outline along the way where the rafters are.
• We close the insulation with a vapor barrier film, fasten it with staples.
• We fill the crate for the finishing material. For fastening, we use long nails 150 - 200 mm to break through the insulation and reach the rafters.

In principle, this method can be combined with the installation of insulation between the rafters. The first layer will be between the rafters, and the second will overlap everything, including the cold bridges.

How to insulate a mansard roof from the outside

It is possible to insulate the roof from the outside only during the construction phase or if the roofing material is removed. This method of insulation allows you to leave the attic space in its original form without losing space. Also, many design solutions involve the use of rafters as decorative furnishings.

Insulation technology of the attic roof from the outside

Insulation of the attic from the outside is carried out only with dense slab materials. These include extruded polystyrene foam or Penoplex. It is not afraid of moisture, therefore it does not require a vapor barrier. The "cake" of Penoplex insulation will look like this:

• Extruded polystyrene foam boards.
• Waterproofing membrane.
• Ventilation gap with crate.
• Roofing material.

The indisputable advantage of this method of insulation is that the rafters are available for inspection and repair at any time.

Laying insulation on the rafters of the attic roof

Thermal insulation with extruded polystyrene foam on top of the rafters allows you to create a continuous heat-insulating layer without cold bridges.

• To prevent the material from sliding off the roof, at the very bottom we nail a board to the rafters, with a width equal to the thickness of the insulation (from 50 to 100 mm).
• We spread the insulation plates in a checkerboard pattern. It is necessary to start from the bottom, from the fixing rail.
• We fix them to the rafters using special dowels with a mushroom head.
• We spread the waterproofing film, starting from the bottom up, with an overlap of 10 - 15 cm, glue the joints with tape. The film is necessary to protect the material from leaks and condensation.
• We fill the crate of bars with a minimum thickness of 40 mm.
• We install roofing material.

Extruded polystyrene foam does not require any additional protection from the inside.

It is necessary to insulate the gables of the attic room together with the entire facade of the building, i.e. outside. The choice of insulation material depends entirely on the material from which the house is built and the preferences of the owner. For example, if the insulation is carried out using a curtain wall system, then you can use mineral wool with vapor barrier and waterproofing films. And if a wet facade is planned, then foam plastic can be laid under it. Remember, adherence to technology is the key to success.

Video - how to insulate a mansard roof

If you decide to settle in the attic space, you need to take care of its comfort. To do this, insulate the attic from the inside. How to do it efficiently and what materials to choose: tips and tricks, as well as detailed instructions - in our article.

The attic space, unlike other rooms in the house, is colder, since it is most exposed to the effects of the environment and bad weather. Therefore, it is necessary to comprehensively insulate the attic floor. Having correctly selected the materials, as well as having studied the technology of their installation, this work can be done by hand.

What is the best insulation for the attic?

The difficulty in choosing a heat-insulating material lies in the fact that attics come in different architectural forms, their surfaces are often uneven. Therefore, for each type of housing, there are different recommendations for insulating the attic floor from the inside.

What is the best way to insulate the attic from the inside? The choice of material depends on many factors:

Various heat insulators can be used to insulate the attic floor. Let's consider their main characteristics.

Insulation options

Thermal insulation with sawdust is economical and can be used to fill even hard-to-reach places. In combination with cement (gypsum) and an antiseptic, sawdust forms a mixture that does not burn and does not attract pests.

Insulation of the attic floor with sawdust

Affordable, inexpensive and lightweight insulator, can be used on flat attic surfaces. But foam insulation of the attic has a number of disadvantages: due to the low vapor permeability of the foam, dampness may occur, and due to the gaps between the insulation plates, drafts. A significant drawback of this material is that mice often make their holes in it. Also, foam, like its other analogs, emits poisonous smoke when burning.

Expanded polystyrene

It is more preferable to insulate the attic floor with expanded polystyrene. This material practically does not form joints during laying and does not attract rodents, provides good heat and sound insulation.

Another type of foam is extruded polystyrene foam. Insulation of the attic floor with extruded polystyrene foam provides high-quality heat and sound insulation, no moisture. The material is lightweight and durable, but has disadvantages: flammability, fear of UV radiation.

Penofol insulation provides excellent heat, noise and waterproofing of the room, protects against radioactive rays, but the material is not strong enough.

Using penofol to insulate the attic floor

Polyurethane foam

Insulation of the attic floor with polyurethane foam is carried out by spraying the mixture onto the surface. Among the advantages of polyurethane foam: quick installation, good thermal insulation, resistance to moisture, does not attract rodents. Disadvantages: low resistance to high temperatures, concentrated acids, esters.

Good tightness is ensured by insulation of the attic with polyurethane foam, consumer reviews are an excellent confirmation of this

Mineral wool

Insulation of the attic floor with basalt mineral wool meets all the parameters of high-quality insulation. The material is non-flammable, does not absorb moisture, retains heat. Due to its elasticity, mineral wool fills well and holds in place.

This material consists of processed cellulose. It is supplied in a crushed form and applied using a special device. Advantages of attic insulation with ecowool: environmental friendliness, seamless insulation, high heat and vapor insulation, easy installation, resistance to moisture, microorganisms, fire.

The disadvantages of ecowool include the fact that certain qualifications are required to work with it.

With such a variety of building materials, the question arises: what kind of insulation to choose for the attic? The main indicator to be guided by is the thermal conductivity coefficient. It is indicated on the packaging of the material, or in the quality certificate. Based on these data, a calculation is made whether it will be enough to lay one layer of insulator, or whether it is necessary to do double laying, in order to avoid possible heat loss.

Tip: For high-quality and reliable thermal insulation of the attic floor, choose an insulation with a thermal conductivity coefficient of no higher than 0.05 W / m * K.

In order to choose the right insulator, there is a certain method for calculating its density.

Formula of heat transfer resistance of walls (R req). It looks like this: Rreq = (1 / A1) + (L / k) + (1 / A2)

Where A1 is the indicator of heat exchange of the wall of the attic floor from the inside (8.7 W / m 0С).

A2 is the indicator of heat exchange at the outer plane of the wall (which is 23 W / m 0С).

L - denotes the thickness of the wall material (meters), and its thermal conductivity coefficient is k.

How to insulate the attic floor: thermal insulation methods

The main methods of insulating an attic space:

• outdoor - requires special equipment and additional labor;
• internal - you can make it yourself.

Internal insulation of the attic floor is carried out in several stages:

How to properly insulate the attic from the inside: roof

There are many materials for insulating the attic roof. The thermal insulation process can be carried out in several ways:

• between the roof rafters;
• over the rafter structure;
• under the rafters.

The most effective option is combined insulation.

To perform thermal insulation work on any surface, the technology of installation of materials must be observed.

Attic floor insulation scheme - pie (insulation)

First, waterproofing is laid along the rafters.

Important: In this case, a gap is left between the roof and the material - an air gap necessary for high-quality ventilation and protection of the roof structure from decay.

The thickness of the air gap depends on the material of the roof covering. If it is wavy, then it should be at least 2.5 cm, if flat - twice as much.

Then comes a layer of insulation, and finally - a vapor barrier film.

It is important to know: For tightness, the material of the vapor barrier is overlapped, and the joints are sealed with tape.

To form a plasterboard ceiling, profiles are attached.

Phased roof insulation

After the roof of the attic is insulated, thermal insulation of the pediment should also be carried out, otherwise the attic floor will not become a full-fledged warm room.

It is better to insulate the gable of the room outside. But, since it is rather problematic to insulate the walls of the attic from the outside on your own, then in a wooden house, a house made of foam concrete or brick, laying a heat insulator is also possible from the inside.

Foam plastic, mineral wool, lightweight fiberglass-based insulation are used to insulate the gable of the attic floor. Insulation of the pediment with mineral wool is especially effective. If the premises are to be used as residential premises, the material must have a thickness of at least 250 mm; for non-residential premises, 100-120 mm is sufficient.

The order of insulation is as follows: first, slats are fixed to the walls for laying the heat insulator (at a distance of 60 cm from each other). Next, cotton wool is laid between the racks of the crate.

Laying mineral wool at the edge

A vapor barrier membrane is stretched over the lathing and finishing material is attached - drywall, lining, wooden panels.

Sheathing of the attic floor with plasterboard after insulation

To keep the attic floor warm, you should choose the right windows. Window blocks for installation in the pediment must have a two- or five-chamber double-glazed window. This will provide high-quality thermal insulation of the under-roof space.

In order to reduce heat loss in the attic to a minimum, insulation of the floor of the room should be carried out. The method of thermal insulation depends on the type of floor overlap in the house.

So for the wooden floor of the floor, two layers of a vapor-tight membrane are laid, between which an insulator is mounted.

Thermal insulation of wooden floors between floors with wadded material

If there is a ceramic or self-leveling floor in the attic, then the insulation for it must be heavy-duty (for example, isofloor). On top of it there is a film, which is attached with an overlap, found on the walls.

Self-leveling floor thermal insulation

For the reinforced concrete floor slab, wooden flooring along the joists can also be used.

Do-it-yourself attic insulation - floor

Lags are installed on sound-insulating gaskets, and ventilation gaps are made in the corners when installing heat-insulating plates.

Insulated attic floor ready for finishing, photo

Since this room borders on the external environment, the highest requirements are imposed on the insulation of the attic floor, because if the insulation is incorrect, heat will escape from the house.

Correctly performed insulation of the attic floor of a house will significantly reduce heating costs, create a favorable microclimate in the house and increase the service life of structural elements.

Examples of attic insulation, video and photo instructions, the best way to insulate the attic from the inside: foam, mineral wool, polyurethane foam, the choice of insulation

How to make insulation of the attic from the inside with your own hands? Detailed photos and video instructions on how to insulate the attic floor, comparison and advice on choosing insulation: mineral wool, polystyrene, polyurethane foam, penofol

How to insulate the attic from the inside and which insulation to choose?

Competent insulation of the attic from the inside allows you to use the room all year round, in addition, it helps to significantly save on heating and electricity costs for heating the building as a whole.

Attic insulation options depend on the stage at which the attic floor was built. In the article, we will figure out how to properly perform thermal insulation, the better to insulate the premises, and we will offer step-by-step instructions on how to insulate the attic from the inside with your own hands.

If the attic was planned at the design stage of the house, then all rooms are insulated in a complex manner, in this case, the type of insulation is initially correlated with the specifics of the attic. If the attic floor is cold, it is planned to use it only in warm weather, then it is enough to insulate the floor.

If the attic will be used as permanent housing, then multilayer insulation of the attic from the inside is assumed, it is important to pay attention to the insulation of not only the roof, but also the floor, walls, if any, then the ceiling. Also, attic heating will have to be integrated with the heating system of the house.

Features of attic insulation

Insulation of the attic floor will prevent the house from cooling and significantly save money on heating all rooms. It is known from the physics course that warm air rises upward, so the temperature under the attic ceiling is on average 2 ° C higher than in other rooms. And under the same conditions of insulation, heat loss through the attic increases significantly. As you can see, the attic is a specific room, which is why more serious requirements are put forward for the insulation of this room. Of course, you should start insulating the attic floor from the roof. There is an algorithm for creating a thermopie for insulating the attic roof, in which each layer has its own fundamental importance:

• roofing material;
• counter lattice;
• waterproofing;
• clearance for free air flows for ventilation of thermal insulation;
• insulation;
• vapor barrier membrane;
• lathing;
• fine finishing.

But in addition to the roof, the attic also consists of gables - vertical walls, a floor that is the ceiling and ceiling of the lower floor. Sometimes a ceiling is sutured on the attic floor, which provides additional insulation for the building as a whole, since an air gap is formed between the roof and the premises.

Please note: If icicles form on the roof of the house, it means that the attic insulation was performed in violation of the technology. Warm air flows out into the street, the snow melts on the roof, and freezes again from the cold outside temperatures.

How to insulate the vertical walls of the attic floor

Before insulating the attic floor, seal all large gaps with jute or soft insulation. There are special requirements for the insulation of the gable - the vertical wall of the attic. Ideally, the attic pediments, made of foam concrete, timber, brick, should be insulated from the outside of the building. A layer of thermal insulation is laid between the outer part of the wall and the facing layer of the house: decorative brick, clapboard, blockhouse, siding panels, leaving an air gap for ventilation. But if such an opportunity is missed, or you need a warmer residential attic for permanent residence, then you can insulate the gables from the inside.

The vertical wall insulation scheme is identical to the attic roof insulation:

• facade material;
• counter-batten, which forms an air gap and holds the waterproofing layer;
• waterproofing - a membrane, perforated films that let steam out and do not let moisture inside; for cold and damp areas, it is recommended to use an anti-condensation film - a waterproofing film that, on the one hand, resembles a fleecy material, it absorbs moisture, which in turn prevents the formation of drops and the insulation from getting wet;
• insulation;
• vapor barrier, "breathing membrane", non-perforated films, polyethylene films reinforced with an aluminum layer, which will protect the insulation when it gets wet;
• finishing material.

Step-by-step instructions for insulating attic walls:

Wall insulation should be started with their treatment with fire-fighting and antifungal compounds.

Around the perimeter of the window openings, it is necessary to make a structure of bars, for joining the heat-insulating pie with the skylights. After that, a waterproofing layer is attached to the walls using a counter-lattice (slats with a section of 20 * 20, 20 * 40 mm). The slats will create the necessary gap for airing the insulating cake. Perhaps the pediment in your case consists of beams or rafters, then the waterproofing layer is fastened with brackets close to the beams, and the thickness of the beams will serve as a gap between the insulation and the wall. Be sure to overlap the waterproofing by 150-200 mm.

Further, if the wall is straight, with the help of dowels-mushrooms, the slab insulation is attached, tightly to each other, it is advisable to seal the joints with polyurethane foam. If a soft material is chosen as a heater - mineral wool, then it is necessary to make a frame from a metal profile, with a step of 500 mm. The frame should move away from the wall by 100-200 mm, it depends on the thickness of the insulation layer. The thickness of the insulation for the attic is calculated for each house individually, and depends on the selected thermal insulation material, its density and heat transfer coefficient. Mineral wool is placed in the formed gap.

How to properly fix the insulation

If the attic is intended for permanent residence, and the house is in a cold climatic zone, then combined insulation of the attic is recommended. In this case, the first layer of insulation is closed with a vapor barrier, then the second layer is laid, which is clamped by a crate made of metal profiles or timber. And again a layer of vapor barrier is laid.

Insulation of the attic, a photo of a thermal insulation layer made of mineral wool, soft materials are attached to the wall using lathing

Then the insulation is sewn up with a vapor barrier membrane, in the same overlap as the waterproofing material, and you can start finishing the attic floor.

How to insulate the attic floor

How to properly insulate the floor on a reinforced concrete floor

To insulate the floor, first we clean the slab of debris and dust, seal the cracks and irregularities with a cement-sand mortar. Next, we carry out the waterproofing of the slab, with a coating method with bitumen mastic for 2 layers, or we lay roofing material, the joints should be overlapped and hermetically glued with a blowtorch - this will protect the insulation from condensation.

We put insulation on the floor, it can be mineral or basalt wool, expanded clay, polystyrene, PPU, expanded polystyrene, etc. The insulation is laid on the insulation, then a reinforcing mesh with a cell of 600 * 600 mm or more, made of reinforcement with a cross section of up to 6 mm.

The reinforcement is poured with a cement screed, after which you can start finishing the floor, the material is selected depending on the design of the attic.

Photo of floor insulation in the attic, the insulation layer should fit snugly to the logs

How to insulate a floor on a wooden floor

Before insulating the wooden floor in the attic, be sure to treat the old coating with a fireproof compound and antiseptics. Further, for insulation, logs from a bar of 100 * 100 mm are stuffed, with a step of 500-600 mm. The lags are sheathed with a waterproofing membrane, and on top of it, between the beams, insulation is very tightly laid, all gaps should be sealed with polyurethane foam. The insulation is covered with a vapor barrier, with an overlap of 150 mm. On top, you can fix sheet material: plywood, chipboard, OSB, on which the finishing finish is laid, or cover it with a floorboard for painting.

How to insulate the ceiling in the attic

The ceiling in the attic is extremely rarely hemmed, since this is an already low room. But if such a need arose, in view of severe frosts, or the peculiarities of the attic interior require it, then, first of all, it is necessary to stretch a vapor barrier membrane around the perimeter of the future ceiling. Next, we install a crate made of wooden bars or metal profiles, with a cell of 600 * 600 mm. We put insulation, mineral wool inside the crate. The lathing is sewn up with another layer of vapor barrier, then you can hem the ceiling with facing materials.

Lathing for insulation of the attic ceiling

What insulation to choose for the attic

The question of what is better to insulate the attic from the inside is very acute, and the prophecy, the reviews on the forums differ dramatically, each material has its own undoubted advantages, as well as disadvantages.

Extruded polystyrene foam

Insulation of the attic floor with extruded polystyrene foam, as a rule, is carried out outside the building. Despite the fact that many consider this material to be foam, their chemical composition is very different. Expanded polystyrene tolerates chemical influences well, has a thermal conductivity lower than that of polystyrene, and practically does not allow moisture to pass through. Even if water penetrates the surface of the insulation, the material will retain its thermal insulation characteristics during freezing and thawing. Expanded polystyrene has different density, the higher this indicator, the heavier the insulation, the lower the density, the better the heat and sound insulation properties. But extruded polystyrene foam collapses upon contact with complex carbohydrates, it also deforms from ultraviolet rays, therefore, when arranging a residential attic, it is not recommended to use nitro-based paints.

Warming the attic with penofol is financially costly, relative to foam. This is a new roll insulation that is a competitor for mineral wool. It has a low coefficient of thermal conductivity, good thermal insulation, and is resistant to moisture. The huge advantage of penofol is that it protects the room from the effects of radioactive substances, but it does not tolerate mechanical stress, and requires skills when laying the heat-insulating layer, violation of the technology leads to a deterioration in the heat-insulating characteristics of the insulation.

Spraying polyurethane foam

Thermal insulation, made by spraying polyurethane foam, has no joints, and, therefore, cold bridges. Such insulation does not require the cost of preliminary preparation of the attic for thermal insulation, the material is poured into the thickness of the attic rafters and more. Insulation is sprayed directly on the walls, floor, ceiling with special equipment. PU foam is resistant to fungi, and practically does not allow moisture to pass through, but does not tolerate the effects of esters and concentrated acids

Ecowool is 80% cellulose, and 20% antiseptics and flame retardants. When using this material for warming the attic, you need to take into account the volume, since the insulation is very loose. To perform high-quality insulation of the attic with ecowool, a layer with a thickness of about 200 mm should be applied. This is an environmentally friendly insulation that lays down on the surface like papier-mâché, manually or mechanically, does not form joints. It has a low coefficient of thermal conductivity, is resistant to fungi and bacteria, and practically does not burn. The installation of a heat-insulating layer requires knowledge of the application technology and professional skills.

Thermal insulation with ecowool, this method of heat protection requires skills and knowledge of the technology of applying material to the surface

Mineral wool

Using mineral wool for insulation is the most popular way to keep your attic warm. Depending on the composition and density of the cotton wool, it can be placed in a spacer or in a special frame. Mineral wool does not rot, but absorbs moisture, because of this, its thermal insulation characteristics are reduced, and the insulation saturated with moisture becomes noticeably heavier, which gives significant loads on the rafters and the roof of the attic. When insulated with mineral wool, there is practically no waste, it is easily cut. To insulate the attic floor, a layer with a thickness of 100-200 mm is required, depending on the design features of the structure. When working with mineral wool, you should wear a protective suit and goggles.

I would like not to leave the old grandfather's and almost free way of insulation. Arrangement of an insulating cake using sawdust. This is an environmentally friendly method of insulation, time-tested. Sawdust is mixed with lime and an insulating layer 100 mm thick is laid. Such insulation is several times inferior to modern heaters, in addition, it is a fire hazardous method of insulation. But if this is a country house, and according to the design of the attic, it is a cold unheated room, then this method of insulation is quite justified.

To insulate the attic, you can use both traditional materials and modern insulation, the main thing is to correctly calculate the thickness of the heat-insulating layer

Subtleties of insulation and waterproofing of the attic

How to install the insulation correctly?

When thinking about how to insulate an attic floor, we often overlook important things. For example, a big role in the effectiveness of insulation is played by how correctly the material was laid.

• The material should be laid in two layers, where the second overlaps the seams and joints of the first.
• The thickness of the rafter legs and the first layer of insulation must be the same. Otherwise, the slabs of the second layer will be bent, which leads to a loss of joint density.
• The width of the insulation should be equal to the distance between the rafter legs. So the slabs will lay flat, with full adjoining, the insulation of the attic floor from the inside will be complete.

The second layer of insulation does not hold in place, what should I do?

With the insulation of the attic with slab materials, problems usually do not arise - they stand between the slats of the counter battens. Rolled types are soft, they sag and, as a result, fall out of their place. A natural question arises: how to properly insulate the attic with your own hands so that everything is securely fixed? The problem is solved with nails and synthetic cord:

• We stuff small nails along the edges of the counter battens.
• The cord is tied to the topmost nail.
• The material is put in place and secured with a cord, overlapping from one rail to another.

We work this way until we finish insulating the attic with our own hands.

How to insulate walls under roof slopes?

If the inner walls of a residential attic under a sloping roof are made vertical, in addition to choosing how to insulate the walls of the attic from the inside, you have another task: placement of insulating material. You do not need to do this directly along the roof slopes. The insulation is placed on the shields that will serve as the walls of the future room. And so that the material does not fall out into the space under the roof, from the reverse side, the shields are hemmed with scraps of boards. The insulation of the walls from the inside, the photo of which you see below, is performed in this way.

Is it possible to replace the vapor protection of the floor with moisture protection?

Usually, the cake for insulating the attic floor in the country consists of a layer of waterproofing, insulation and vapor barrier. The idea of ​​installing moisture protection instead of steam protection seems logical - protecting the floor from spilled water. Not so simple. Insulation works as long as it is dry. Thermal insulation values ​​decrease with increasing humidity levels.

If we fill the floor with a vapor barrier, sooner or later the water will evaporate, and the insulation will restore its properties. When there is moisture protection on top, and water somehow gets inside the ceiling, there will be no moisture escape. We get: the absence of floor insulation in the attic floor and the presence, over time, of mold under it.

How to properly install a vapor barrier?

Insulation of the attic floor from the inside is never complete without the installation of vapor barrier membranes. This process has its own nuances:

• Foil membranes are installed with the shiny side into the room.
• We determine the positioning of ordinary fiberglass cloths by touch - with the smooth side to the insulation, and the rough side to the room.
• Installation of any vapor barrier sheets is carried out in strips, in the horizontal direction, from bottom to top.

These rules apply to the insulation of the attic floor both along the slopes of the roof and along the gables.

How wide should the ventilation gap be between the roof and the insulation cake?

The width of the ventilation gap depends on the type of roofing material, and not on how you are going to insulate the attic from the inside:

• Bituminous tiles, roll materials, asbestos-cement sheets, galvanized steel - there must be at least 50 mm under them.
• Any corrugated sheets such as metal tiles, profiled galvanized steel - from the roofing material to the attic insulation layer from the inside, we leave a gap of 25 mm.

How to avoid mistakes when insulating an attic with foam?

• Do not use mushroom dowels when insulating the attic with foam. Reviews usually do not reflect this, but the multiple cold bridges resulting from the process increase heat loss.
• When thinking about how to insulate an attic with foam, remember that this material is not suitable for wooden surfaces.
• The use of polyurethane foam should be avoided to eliminate gaps between the foam plates. It is better to choose a material that has a tongue-and-groove connection. If you need to put the cut pieces together, just fit them with a knife.

Which is better, basalt wool or slag wool?

Many are at a loss in the question of which insulation is best for the attic. This is especially true of slag and basalt mineral wool - they are called in one word, they look similar. The latter is better already because it has a lower thermal conductivity coefficient - 0.12. For slag, this figure is 0.48. Another advantage of basalt insulation is the absence of formaldehyde in the composition. Therefore, when deciding what is better to insulate the attic from the inside, it is preferable to stay on basalt wool.

What to do if the thickness of the insulation is greater than the height of the lathing?

If, while insulating the gable of the attic from the inside, you find that the insulation is too thick and protrudes above the crate, in no case should you crush it. The heat-retaining properties of a material directly depend on its density: the less it is, the greater the effect of the insulation.

Taking, for example, slag wool, we compact it, deteriorating its properties. How to insulate the attic pediment without redoing the crate? Just increase its thickness by stuffing the slats of the desired section on top. Do the same with roof slopes, increasing the rafters in width.

Is it possible to do without insulation of the insulated attic floor?

When deciding how to insulate the attic for winter living, we often doubt whether it is necessary to care so much about the waterproofing and vapor barrier of the floor. In theory, if the floor is well insulated and insulated along the walls and roof, this can be omitted. However, do not forget that warm air tends to rise upward, and moisture rises with it. That is, the floor of the top floor receives moisture from the entire house. Therefore, in the winter version of the attic, the layers of insulation should be enclosed in water and vapor barrier membranes.

Options for insulating the attic from the inside, the choice of materials: polystyrene, polyurethane foam, mineral wool, photo examples of how to insulate the attic floor

Not sure what is the best way to insulate the attic from the inside? Insulation review: expanded polystyrene, mineral wool, penoplex and polyurethane, which is better? Do-it-yourself photo and video materials for warming the attic.

Attic insulation and materials used

Loss of heat energy is an extremely common problem in many old and new private houses, which, in turn, leads to increased consumption of electricity or other types of heating energy, which is best avoided. It is for this reason that the insulation of the attic, walls, basement and ceiling is an extremely relevant topic, for which a certain scheme is used.

Arrangement of the attic floor allows you to create additional places for relaxation in your home.

In fairly old residential buildings, there is a small attic space, which is rarely used by the owners and which needs to be insulated. Newer and more modern buildings have mansard roofs, which make it possible to equip additional living space in the attic, which must be insulated.

How to insulate the attic?

Insulation material is the main part of all thermal insulation work, and its choice should be taken extremely responsibly. The choice of the right insulation for each individual house has striking differences and depends on the characteristics of the house itself, the climatic conditions of the region where the building that needs to be insulated is located.

Most inexperienced developers give their preference to such insulation material as polystyrene, believing that it is better. But it should be noted right away that such material does not have high-quality and acceptable characteristics, except for the extremely low cost, and this is the only good characteristic.

Mansard roof insulation scheme.

Polyfoam is not able to pass a sufficient amount of humid air, which causes high humidity inside the attic residential floor. Do not forget that after the rafter system dries out, an empty space is formed between such an insulation material and the rafter system, in which cold air will circulate, which is better to avoid. Do not overlook rodents who prefer foam to other insulation materials. In other words, it is not worth stopping your choice on a material that can be used to insulate a house.

Polystyrene foam is similar in composition, but has differences in use, the installation of which should be considered in more detail, which will allow you to make the right choice. The peculiarity of this insulation material is that it must be laid under the rafters, this, in turn, prevents the formation of gaps between the material and the rafter system.

In order for the laying of such insulation to be of the highest quality, there are special grooves or spikes in its plates, with the help of which the plates are connected closely.

Insulation system on the rafter system

The most popular and demanded insulation material in private construction is mineral wool, the availability and quality of which is suitable for any type of internal insulation of an attic residential floor. Among the positive characteristics of this insulation, it is worth noting a low level of flammability, resistance to moisture and extremely high strength and durability. An analogue of this insulation is glass wool, which is often used for this type of insulation of an attic residential floor. This type of insulation has some differences from its mineral counterparts:

Thermal insulation scheme for the truss system.

• due to the longest fibers, this material has higher levels of sound insulation, strength and resilience, which is quite important in this matter;
• special attention should be paid to extremely low hydrophobicity, which has a positive effect on the entire process of saving thermal energy;
• and the last difference from mineral wool is that this insulation material can be used at rather low temperatures, which is ideal for cold regions.

Modern insulation with ecowool material

Ecowool is a fairly new insulation that can be used to reduce heat losses in almost any building. The peculiarity of this material is that it is initially in a liquid state and is blown into the gaps between the rafter system and the finishing material under pressure.

After drying of this insulation, a high-quality insulating layer is formed, which does not conflict with wood and ideally retains heat inside the room. It is worth considering the fact that ecowool is made of paper, which is ideally combined with the wooden truss system of the attic.

This insulation contains a natural antiseptic, which allows you to count on maximum protection against harmful insects, fungus and harmful mold. In addition, this material has high sound insulation performance, which is ideal for the attic.

For the entire operational period, this material is in its primary state, without settling or subsiding. In other words, the use of such insulation can be considered as acceptable as possible if the cost of installation work suits the developer.

Insulation work scheme

Single-layer insulation scheme.

The design of the attic depends on many factors, the first of which are the structural and projection characteristics of the roof itself. This suggests that the attic insulation should be approached as individual work, which can have striking differences. The first thing that needs to be disassembled is the way to insulate the frame structure of the attic, of which there are 3:

• insulation over the frame structure;
• insulation under the frame structure;
• thermal insulation of the frame structure from 2 sides.

It is possible to use the first floor insulation scheme in the case when the general insulation of the house is carried out along the entire facade, which implies that the floor frame structure belongs to its walls. In this version, it is necessary to insulate not only the inner part of the attic floor, but also its outer part. The second scheme for insulating such a floor implies the presence of balcony awnings, where only the inner part of the walls is subject to insulation.

It is possible to apply the last scheme of insulating the supporting frame only if it is made of lumber, because the metal beams in this version will freeze through, which will cause condensation and damage to the roofing system.

Do not forget about high-quality insulation not only of the frame, but also of the walls, floor and ceiling. This is necessary in order to organize the most comfortable living environment, while retaining the maximum amount of thermal energy inside the residential floor. You should not start such insulation in a chaotic manner, because there is a pre-developed procedure for this. So, in what order should the work described above be performed?

First of all, it is worth paying attention to the insulation of the attic floor, for which it is necessary to use the correct thermal insulation. If the room has not been used at all before, then such actions will not cause complications, because the interfloor overlap already acts as an excellent basis for insulating the floor structure.

Attic floor insulation scheme.

Almost any insulation material can be placed between the wooden logs, among which it is preferable to use mineral wool. The insulation fiber should be laid in such a way as to exclude the presence of cracks and gaps between the insulation plates, which will increase the level of thermal energy conservation on each of the floors.

After that, you can proceed with the insulation of the ceiling, which to some extent acts as a finish for the supporting frame of the attic structure. To achieve high-quality insulation of the ceiling, you can use the same mineral wool or expanded polystyrene plates.

Only after that is it worth starting to insulate the walls, which will subsequently be finished with any available finishing material. For such work, you need to choose the highest quality insulation material that will not be harmful to the health of residents, and can also last as long as possible and with maximum quality.

Frequent mistakes during insulation work

Insulation of the ceiling, floor or walls of a residential attic can have many errors, which will subsequently lead to a violation of the integrity and performance of the insulation material itself. It is worth starting a description of such errors with damage to the material by moisture, which can come both from the inside and outside of the attic.

Outside penetration of moisture can lead to poor installation of roofing material, the organization of ventilation openings or the installation of horizontal windows. In other words, all these stages of construction should be given maximum attention, which will save time and money that will be required to repair the entire floor.

Attic wall insulation scheme.

In order not to give the insulation material to moisture from inside the room, it is necessary to protect it from all sides with a special membrane film, which acts as a vapor barrier. Such a film has 2 sides, which speaks of the developer's care when installing it. An incorrect position of the membrane will lead to even greater damage to the insulation material, and, as a result, to the supporting frame of the attic roof.

The second mistake of developers when insulating the attic roof is the lack of attention to wind protection. If such protection is not provided in the design, then in the winter season, with strong winds, cold air will circulate between the insulation material and the roof, which will cause internal discomfort, as well as cause condensation under the roof. To avoid this, it is necessary to lay a special windproof film on the outside of the insulation material, which has excellent resistance to air permeability.

When insulating the walls or ceiling of such a room, it is necessary to insulate the insulation material from mechanical damage. For insulation of walls and ceilings, mineral wool is most often used, which has good resistance to mechanical stress. But if polystyrene foam is used for such work, then it must be protected from the formation of dents and cracks, which, in turn, will increase its functionality and service life.

So, the wall and ceiling insulation scheme does not have any particular difficulties, if all the conditions for such work are met correctly. Methods of insulation work of this type have some similarities and imply extreme caution when working with the selected material. In order to properly insulate a residential attic space, any scheme described is suitable, but it is better to choose the option that is ideal for a particular house design. Using all the recommendations presented, we properly keep the heat in the house.

The better to insulate the attic: scheme

Preparing for the winter period, many developers ask themselves an important question, what is the best way to insulate the attic? There are many materials for insulation: foam plastic, mineral wool, etc.

In this article, we will take a closer look at how to insulate the attic from the inside to get a comfortable living space. This will allow you to efficiently cope with the task at hand, without seeking help from specialists.

Attic insulation is conventionally divided into four stages:

Stage 1: the choice of insulation

To help you decide on the choice of thermal insulation material, first I will briefly talk about some of the most common insulation materials today.

So, these include:

• mineral wool;
• expanded polystyrene;
• extruded polystyrene foam;
• ecowool.

Minvata

Mineral wool is undoubtedly the leader among thermal insulation materials in terms of popularity.

This is due to its advantages such as:

• low thermal conductivity - 0.032 - 0.048 W / mK;
• environmental friendliness;
• vapor permeability, which contributes to the formation of a favorable indoor microclimate;
• fire safety - mineral wool does not burn and resists the spread of fire;
• It is sold in rolls and in the form of slabs (mats), as a result of which it is convenient to install.

There are not many disadvantages of this material, but they are available:

• strongly absorbs moisture, as a result of which it needs reliable waterproofing and vapor barrier;
• for internal insulation, only basalt wool should be used, since only it is environmentally friendly. The cost of basalt wool is much higher than slag wool or, for example, glass wool - an average of 3,500 rubles per cubic meter;
• causes irritation on the skin, therefore, working with the material is not very comfortable.

Styrofoam

Polyfoam is currently one of the cheapest heat-insulating materials - its average cost is about 2000-2500 rubles per cubic meter.

In addition, it has other advantages:

• good thermal insulation properties - 0.038 - 0.043 W / mK;
• is lightweight;
• it is comfortable to work with foam, since it does not cause any skin irritation.

At the same time, expanded polystyrene has a couple of significant disadvantages:

• does not let steam through;
• burns well, and at the same time releases dangerous toxins that can lead to serious poisoning.

Therefore, insulation of the attic with foam is performed quite rarely.

Extruded polystyrene foam

This insulation is a kind of regular foam.

Thanks to a special manufacturing technology, it has higher characteristics:

• the strength is about ten times higher than the strength of the foam;
• thermal conductivity - 0.027-0.034;
• expensive brands of extruded polystyrene foam contain flame retardants, due to which they are classified as low-combustible materials;
• resistant to moisture, so it does not require waterproofing and vapor barrier.

There are two serious drawbacks to extrusive polystyrene foam:

• high cost - a cube costs an average of 4500 rubles;
• practically zero vapor permeability.

I must say that there are other modern thermal insulation materials that can be used to insulate the attic, for example, polyurethane foam. However, they require special equipment, so it will not be possible to independently perform thermal insulation with their help.

Stage 2: insulation of the floor

Wooden floor

First, let's look at how to insulate the floor. This operation is required not so much to insulate the room, but to ensure the soundproofing of the floor. It is especially necessary for wooden floors, since wood transmits sound well.

To do this work, in addition to insulation, we need the following materials:

• vapor barrier membrane;
• backing - rubber-cork, felt or others;
• antiseptic impregnation.

The instructions for doing this work look like this:

1. if the floor has a flooring, it must be dismantled;
2. then treat all elements of the wooden floor with an antiseptic;
3. then on the roll (filing) and floor beams, you need to lay a vapor barrier;
4. then the space between the beams should be filled with thermal insulation;
5. after that, lay another layer of the vapor barrier;

1. then the strips of the substrate should be laid on the beams, which insulates the floor from impact noise;
2. then the flooring is laid.

For thermal insulation of the floor, you can use not only slabs, but also bulk materials, such as ecowool or even sawdust.

This completes the thermal insulation of the wooden floor.

Concrete slab

In some cases, it may be necessary to insulate the concrete floor, for example, if an unheated garage is located under the room.

In such a situation, the following materials should be prepared:

• slab insulation;
• waterproofing film;
• antifungal composition, for example, "Anti-mold";
• materials for filling the screed.

The process of warming a concrete floor looks like this:

1. first of all, the concrete floor must be cleaned of dirt and debris;
2. then be sure to treat the surface with an antifungal compound;

1. Further Lay the waterproofing membrane on the floor with a curl at the corners. Glue the joints of the film with tape;
2. lay a layer of insulation on top of the film;

1. then another layer of waterproofing is laid on the insulation;
2. after that, it is necessary to fill in the cement-sand screed according to the standard scheme.

You can lay logs on the concrete floor and then carry out the insulation according to the scheme described above. This will avoid performing wet labor-intensive work.

This completes the insulation of the concrete floor.

Stage 3: roof insulation

Insulating the attic roof from the inside can be broken down into three main steps:

Preparation of materials

Before insulating the roof, you need to prepare the following materials:

• one of the above-described thermal insulation materials;
• vapor barrier membrane;
• wooden slats;
• antiseptic impregnation.

In addition, you will need material for the roof sheathing from the inside.

Roof preparation for insulation

To prepare the roof for thermal insulation, you need to do the following:

1. inspect the structure for damage. If parts with cracks or traces of rot are found, they must be replaced or reinforced;
2. after that, all wooden parts of the rafter must be treated with an antiseptic to protect them from decay;

1. if the thickness of the insulation exceeds the thickness of the rafter legs, they need to be built up using beams or boards that are nailed to the rafters.

If there is no waterproofing under the roofing or it has deteriorated, a superdiffuse film should be fixed between the rafters.

Now everything is ready to insulate the attic roof from the inside.

Roof insulation

Roof insulation is performed as follows:

1. as you know, the waterproofing of the roof is carried out during the installation of the roofing material, however, in order to reliably protect the insulation from moisture, it is necessary to additionally use a vapor barrier. Moreover a ventilation gap must be provided between the vapor barrier membrane and the waterproofing.

To do this, you need to step back from the waterproofing one and a half to two centimeters and nail carnations to the rafter legs with a step of 10-20 cm, as shown in the photo above. The hats should protrude from the rafters by about 0.5 cm so that the thread can be pulled in a zigzag manner between the nails. Thanks to this, the vapor barrier will not come into contact with the waterproofing;

1. then the installation of the waterproofing film is carried out. The membrane can be fixed with a stapler;
2. further, thermal insulation should be laid in the space between the rafter legs. Plates must fit snugly to the rafters and to each other so that no gaps arise between them;

1. to fix the insulation plates, nail in the nails and pull the thread between them;

1. after laying the thermal insulation, another layer of vapor barrier must be fixed on the rafters;

1. at the end of the work, a crate of slats should be made, to which the finishing material will subsequently be attached.

This completes the insulation of the attic roof from the inside.

Stage 4: warming the gables

Now it remains to carry out the warming of the gables, i.e. attic walls.

To do this, you will need the following materials:

• insulation;
• wooden slats;
• vapor barrier membrane.

Do-it-yourself warming of gables is carried out as follows:

1. it is advisable to arrange a ventilation gap between the wall and the vapor barrier. To do this, fix the slats on the gables in a horizontal position. Make the distance between them 2-3 cm horizontally and 40 cm vertically.
   During the installation process, try to align the rails so that they form as flat a vertical plane as possible;

1. then fix the vapor barrier membrane on the rails, placing it tightly, as in the photo above;
2. further on the rails you need to fix the racks with hangers. If the thickness of the racks corresponds to the thickness of the insulation, self-tapping screws and metal corners can be used to fix them.

To make the frame even, first install the extreme racks, then fasten the tensioned threads on them, and align the intermediate racks along them. Make the step between the racks equal to the width of the insulation. If mineral mats are used, it is advisable to make the distance between the posts a couple of centimeters less than the width of the mats;

1. now the insulation plates must be inserted into the space between the racks;
2. after that, it is necessary to attach a vapor barrier to the construction sites and perform a crate;

1. from the side of the facade, it is necessary to drill several holes on the gables under the canopy, which will allow the ventilation gap to work as expected.

This completes the warming of the gables. Now all that remains is to sheathe the roof and walls. I must say that there are very different finishing methods, for example, you can sheathe the frame with drywall, and stick wallpaper on top.

Often, clapboard or block house is used for decoration. You can learn more about the nuances of installing these finishing materials from other articles on our portal.

Here, perhaps, is all the information on how to insulate an attic with your own hands.

Conclusion

Now you know how the attic insulation is done, and you can handle it yourself. The only thing is, watch another video in this article. And if you have any questions, write comments, and I will be happy to answer you.