Do-it-yourself brickwork for heating a house and a summer residence

Even a novice bricklayer is quite capable of building a brick oven for a brick house with your own hands. Due to the abundance and availability of information, it is enough just to choose a suitable design with an order and a detailed description of all stages of work, be patient and do the laying carefully and carefully. Let's consider in detail how to build a brick oven with your own hands.

The oven starts from the foundation

Even a small brick oven with your own hands, laid out in a country house or in a bathhouse, weighs more than a ton. Therefore, you need to put it not on the floor, but on your own foundation.

The top cut of the foundation matches the level of the subfloor. It is necessary to pay special attention to the fact that the upper plane is perfectly horizontal. This will avoid skewing the masonry and greatly simplify the work of the stove-maker.

Two layers of roofing material, glassine or strong building film are laid on the foundation for waterproofing. A steel sheet and a layer of heat insulator are laid on top of the waterproofing (so that the heat does not go into the foundation). On this whole "cake" for the future brick oven, bricks of the first layer of masonry are laid with their own hands.

Preparation of mortar for oven masonry

Unlike a conventional wall, a brick stove with your own hands is not built on cement, but on clay-sand mortar. The compositions of mortars for fireclay and ceramic bricks are very different.

The mortar for fireclay bricks is prepared on the basis of white kaolin or fireclay marl. Minerals are highly refractory and can withstand temperatures above 1500 degrees. Dry masonry mix for the preparation of refractory masonry mortar is usually purchased in retail chains.

The mortar for ceramic bricks is prepared on the basis of ordinary clay, which can be found in your area. Kiln clay is also sold in many building supermarkets.

For 100 pcs. brick will need about 40 kg of clay. The proportions of clay and sand are determined by trial batching. This is done as follows:

• The clay is soaked in cold water for a day.
• The batch is divided into 5 parts and a quarter, half, three quarters or an equal weight part of sand is added to each, respectively.
• All the resulting samples are kneaded again until completely homogeneous and allowed to stand for 3-4 hours to remove excess moisture.

We test samples:

• roll them into sausages 1-1.5 cm thick and wrap them around any round object with a diameter of 5 cm.
• In the case when cracks of more than 2 mm have formed on the sample, the solution is not suitable.
• With a crack depth of up to 2 mm, the solution is suitable for those parts of the furnace where the heating temperature does not exceed 300 degrees.
• If the surface of the sample is not cracked or covered with a fine mesh, such a solution is quite suitable for making a stove with your own hands.

Since the cost of sand is much lower than the cost of good kiln clay, the essence of the tests boils down to determining the maximum possible fraction of the filler in the solution.

DIY brick oven for home video

Bricklaying technology

The furnace diagram shown below is distinguished by its simplicity and very high repeatability with a high success rate. A do-it-yourself brick stove is small in size and is suitable as a heat source for one room or a small garden house. The area allotted for the oven is only 0.4 sq. m. A very small amount of brick is used for the construction, therefore, the weight is very small.

The laying of the stove starts from the first row. To ensure a perfectly horizontal plane, a thin layer of river washed or rock sand can be poured under the brick. The sand will smooth out the difference in the thickness of the bricks, and at the same time will act as an additional heat insulator.

The basics of choosing a building material

The thickness of the mortar between the bricks should be 2-3 mm. A thicker seam will quickly crumble. For masonry, you need to choose the smoothest bricks with the same dimensions - since unevenness cannot be compensated for with mortar!

On the second row, we install the blower door. To compensate for thermal expansion, it is wrapped around the perimeter with an asbestos cord. The door is fastened with steel wire fixed in the masonry. To prevent the wire from interfering, grooves are cut in the brick with a grinder.

The third row is already laid out from fireclay bricks. The grates are placed on it after the clay has set.

The laying of the stoves of the fourth row is laid on the edge. If the grates do not fit into the free space, the brick must be cut in place, providing gaps of 3 mm on all sides.

When laying a brick oven, it is important to know!

The rear "knockout" brick is placed without mortar. It is needed to clean the channels.

On the fifth row, similar to the blower one, a combustion door is installed. The fifth row is laid flat, and these protruding bricks act as an external heat exchanger.

The seventh - ninth rows are laid out again flat. A cast iron hob is laid on top of the ninth row. An asbestos or fiberglass cord is also used for laying between metal and brick.

Using a cord to seal masonry

Without a sealing cord, smoke will enter the room, and the clay mortar will quickly crumble away from the thermal expansion of the cast iron plate.

The last three rows form a place for installing a light chimney. A metal valve is installed on the penultimate row. It should also be separated from the stone with an asbestos cord.

After complete drying of the masonry, the "knock-out" brick is pulled out and debris is removed from the channel. So that the sand from under the stove does not spill out, a plinth is nailed along its perimeter.

Brick stoves for giving video

Choosing pipes for the chimney

Any metal or asbestos-cement pipe with a channel of about 200 square meters will serve as a chimney for this stove. cm, which corresponds to 11.5 cm in diameter for a circular section. The height of the upper edge of the pipe above the level of the grate of the combustion chamber is at least 4 m. The height of the part protruding above the roof is at least half a meter. If the stove smokes during the first starts, the chimney can be extended by 25-50 cm.

Brick kiln finishing

The finished masonry of the stove is whitewashed on the outside with a simple chalk whitewash or thin plaster. As a binder, you can add fat milk to the water. And to prevent the appearance of yellowness, ordinary blueing will help.

If you are deciding how to fold a higher-level oven, choose one of the available options for upgrading it:

• covering with decorative facade bricks or stove tiles;
• outer metal screen;
• decorative jointing or painting of joints with heat-resistant paint.

Brick and tile laying should be foreseen in advance, since during the construction process, the external elements are tied with the masonry. This work requires a lot of experience and it is better to entrust it to professional stove-makers. It is better to install the metal screen not close, but at some distance from the furnace body. Then it will play the role of an air convector, which will significantly increase the heating rate of the room.

Outcome

Knowing how to build a stove in a house with your own hands, you can provide any small room with affordable heating. The experience gained during the first construction will form the basis for further improvement of this demanded skill.

Heating and cooking stoves have been present in houses since ancient times. They acted as the main component of any rural home. Nowadays, people living in private houses in the city do not refuse to install this structure either. It has not lost its functionality, therefore it is actively used by many.

Even if the house has a heating system that runs on gas or electricity, many do not want to turn it on at full capacity during the autumn days, when it gets cool in the house. In this case, the stove will help to provide a comfortable microclimate in the home. It is enough to throw a few logs into the firebox and the dwelling will get warm pretty quickly.

If you decide to acquire this structure in your home, then the task of its construction must be approached with the utmost seriousness because the oven is built with the expectation that it will last for decades. It doesn't matter if you are building a do-it-yourself heating stove or a stove with a stove. Therefore, if mistakes are made during the construction process, it will be extremely difficult to correct them later.

Speaking about stoves, we note that they are divided into structures for one- and two-story houses. The main difference between the two is height. The structure to be erected can have a slab or be used only for heating. In the second case, the plate is absent in it as a constituent element. The height of a do-it-yourself stove depends on the number of rows in the scheme. Next, we will take a closer look at how to build a do-it-yourself stove with a stove in a private house.

Masonry materials

Calculation of materials is an extremely important point when laying a stove with your own hands. In addition, the quality of the structure affects its service life. The stove stove that we are considering in this article usually measures 90 × 90 cm at the base. As for its height, the structure does not reach its top point to the ceiling of the first floor by 2.1 m.

Before starting work on the construction of a furnace with your own hands, you need to purchase materials in sufficient quantities to be used in its construction. During the work required:

• red brick М150 in the amount of 1085 pcs .;
• sand-lime brick for the construction of the furnace 150 pcs. Instead, you can use chamotte;
• sand - 80-100 buckets;
• clay - 200 kg;
• corner 50 × 50 mm and 40x40 mm;
• steel wire 2 mm - 25 m;
• metal sheet 4 mm 1.5 x 1.5 m;
• roofing material -3 m;
• asbestos cord 5 mm - 10 m;
• wall insulation material.

The construction of the foundation also requires the preparation of appropriate materials:

• sand;
• cement;
• fittings;
• crushed stone;
• formwork boards.

In addition, to build a full-fledged stove with a do-it-yourself stove, which can be used to heat a home and prepare food, you will need to purchase cast iron parts:

• grate - 1 pc .;
• hob with two burners -1pc .;
• gate valves - 3 pcs.;
• two doors for the combustion chamber and ashtray, 1 piece each;
• cleaning doors - 5 pcs.

After the materials are prepared and the builder has the necessary tools at his disposal, you can proceed to the active phase of the work.

Foundation

Taking into account the fact that the structure under construction has a large mass, when constructing the foundation with your own hands perform its deepening not less than 80 cm. However, when carrying out foundation work, the climatic features of the area of ​​residence, as well as the depth of freezing, should be taken into account. You can find out about this from local builders. Considering all these points, a self-built stove according to the chosen scheme will last a long time.

The pit for the foundation to be arranged must have a square shape. As for its dimensions, they should be 1.2 × 1.2 m. You can easily dig it with your own hands, resorting to a hand tool - a shovel.

After the completion of excavation work, the bottom of the pit is compacted. Then at its bottom make a sand pillow, for which it is important to maintain an optimal layer thickness of 10-15 cm. Next, crushed stone is poured in a layer of 15 cm, which, after laying it, must be tamped down, and then the formwork must be installed. This must be done with the expectation that it will pass through the entire thickness of the foundation.

Pouring the foundation for the future furnace is performed in several stages. The first layers may consist of mortar, which is made of cement and pebbles. The top layer must be poured with concrete made from sand and cement. Taking into account the weight of the structure, the solidification of the foundation should take a long time, at least three weeks. This is important, because otherwise a do-it-yourself stove even according to the chosen scheme, will not last long. A crack in the foundation will lead to the need for repairs.

When the base of the furnace with the slab has gained sufficient strength, the formwork is removed, and the upper part of the foundation is covered with a waterproofing material- three layers of roofing material. The first bricklaying with your own hands will be done further on it.

In comparison with a fireplace, the design of a stove with a do-it-yourself stove is more complex. Therefore, the construction scheme must be strictly observed.

Due to the fact that the area of ​​the foundation is larger than the base, markings should be made on the waterproofing. After that, you can proceed to the laying of the first row.

If a vertical layout of rows is used, then it must be remembered that the chimney channels should not be too narrow. Their minimum size is 13 × 13 centimeters.

The order scheme for laying out a heating and cooking stove assumes the following: already from the first rows of masonry, a blower chamber should be provided in its scheme. When the laying of the second row begins, the blower door is installed, which, before being installed in the opening intended for it, is wrapped with an asbestos cord.

When installing the door, a wire is attached to it, which is clamped between two bricks. When it is completely framed with masonry, the wire is bent to the sides.

When they reach the masonry of the fourth row of the stove, holes are designated on it for circulating heated air. On the fifth, the firebox grate is being laid. When constructing the wall of the furnace and its threshold, it is permissible to use silicate brick.

The installation of the combustion door is performed on the sixth row. It, like the blower, is wrapped with an asbestos cord.

From 6 to 10 rows, special attention must be paid to the shape of the holes, which will ensure the movement of air inside the structure. The tenth row, if possible, must be fastened with a frame welded from a corner. On the 11th row, a hob is placed on a pre-laid asbestos gasket.

The corner fits on the seventeenth row. The 18th row of masonry will lie on it, which will complete the framing of the chamber above the slab.

A drying chamber is formed on rows 19-20 of the masonry. On the 19th row, a cleaning door is installed.

Once again, the metal corner is laid on the 24th row of the masonry. On him a solid row of bricks will be laid out which will become the ceiling of the dryer.

The cleaning door is installed on the 25th row.

On the 30th row, two valves are being installed.

All subsequent rows up to the 38th are performed according to the scheme, and the next ones form part of the furnace, which goes to the second floor. Note that this part of the oven is numbered differently in the order. Its laying is carried out according to the following scheme:

• door installation is performed on the 2-3rd row. It is used for cleaning;
• the chimney valve is installed on the 27th row;
• the part of the stove installed on the second floor should have the shape of a wide chimney. It must be equipped with a valve and a camera. Gradually, it is replaced by a narrow pipe, which begins at the level of the 32nd row.

An umbrella is put on the upper part of the pipe, which prevents dust and moisture from entering inside it.

Furnace diagrams

Stoves that are built in private houses with their own hands can currently be divided into two groups:

• modern devices;
• obsolete constructions.

It is not a problem to build outdated structures with your own hands. However, they have an imperfect design, therefore most often, stoves with a stove are installed in houses that differ in their functionality.

If you decide to build a stove with a stove in your house or just a structure for heating with your own hands, then you need to seriously approach the task of choosing them. Familiarization with the advantages of furnaces of different designs will allow you to make the right choice. If a private house already has a stove with an old-style stove, then in this case there is no need to build a structure from scratch. It is enough to remake it and you will have equipment for heating and cooking at your disposal.

To avoid mistakes during the rework process, you should first familiarize yourself with the video and various instructions on how the professionals do this work. Also, during work, it is necessary to use drawings. Applying the knowledge gained, you can get a good result at the end of the work - you will have a do-it-yourself oven with a stove.

One of the most common types of ovens is bunk. If we talk about its structure, then, we note that it consists of two structures- one stands on top of the other. Each of the parts of this structure has dimensions of 165x51x238 cm. When the furnace is operating, the heat transfer in the lower part is 3200 kcal / h, and in the upper part - 2600 kcal / h.

When building such a structure with your own hands, the two structures are separated by means of brickwork with voids. it allows you to reduce the weight of the oven and save during its construction, a certain amount of material. The liner, which is used to fill the space between the upper and lower oven, also acts as the base for the first structure.

Both the upper and lower ovens have exactly the same design. In this case, a channelless smoke circulation system is implemented. Once in the firebox, gases move into the upper bell, which is equipped with a special nozzle. After the gases have cooled, they are lowered to the bottom to the level of the firebox. Then they go into the chimney through the roll-up.

In the lower oven, the chimney runs in the upper part, so the heating surface is smaller. The upper structure has a separate chimney. The process of its laying does not contain any difficult moments. The scheme of gas movement is also simple. There is a door in the rear wall through which the lower structure is to be cleaned. Cleaning the upper structure must be carried out through the door located in the side wall. Either coal or anthracite can be used as fuel for the double-deck oven. Each of the pipes created in this furnace is additionally equipped with a valve.

Reinforced concrete slabs are often used to cover the top of voids. This type of overlap provides stability, and in addition, makes the furnace structure as a whole more stable. When performing masonry of such a volume, errors should be excluded. Indeed, in the event of their occurrence, the repair will be extremely difficult.

Great attention should be paid to the construction of the chimney located in the lower structure of the stove. If there are leaks in the masonry, then in this case you may encounter heat transmission from the wall that separates the pipes on the second floor. Note that this will also happen with closed smoke dampers.

Stoves with a stove or any other type can be combined into any array, regardless of whether they are square or rectangular. The type of fuel does not really matter either. For a country house, a do-it-yourself stove can be an ideal heating option.

A furnace of this design has dimensions of 102x102x238 cm. If we talk about its heat transfer during operation, then it is 4200 kcal per hour.

One of its important parts - the firebox - has a great height in the design of this stove. The symmetrical arrangement is also typical for its side openings, which serve to remove gas through the side chambers of the furnace walls located on the sides of the structure. Once there, the gas descends through the chambers, the connection of which is provided by a special channel located under the firebox.

Gases enter the risers from each side chamber through the lower curtain. Then they rise to the side chambers located at the top. Everything together they form the top cap, which has three U-shaped cavities.

The cavities are located parallel to each other. Having got up, the gas will be retained in the middle and rear cavities of the bell, and after cooling it will pass into the front plane along the lower part. The front plane is connected to the stacked chimney. From there, the gas will go into the atmosphere.

There are three bells in the design of this furnace: an upper one and 2 large chambers. If we talk about the type of fuel that can be used in the construction of this structure, we note that it can be anything. For laying out the walls of the firebox during the construction of the furnace, refractory bricks should be used.

The stove in the house is a good help in creating a comfortable microclimate at minimal cost. She can act as the main heating system for the home or be used as an additional heat source. The construction of this structure does not have to be entrusted to a specialist. You yourself can build a stove in your home if you study all the nuances of building a stove. High-quality work will allow you to get a furnace that will give off heat well and will last for decades.

The dacha is a wonderful place where a modern person has a unique opportunity to take a break from the hustle and bustle of the city, relax and get in touch with nature. Almost any summer cottage today has a small house that allows a person to make their vacation more comfortable. Often, the country house is used only in summer, and is empty during the cold season. You can change this situation and spend time outside the city in winter if you provide heating in the house. For example, a wood-burning stove. The question arises - how to fold a brick oven with your own hands for a summer residence?

In fact, an inexperienced home craftsman can do this. The main thing is to carefully study the instructions and follow them clearly.

The issue of heating a small country house can be solved in several ways:

1. Autonomous gasification / laying of the main gas pipeline. The main advantage is that the house will be warm enough with minimal labor costs on the part of the owner. The main disadvantage of this method is that it is very expensive. In addition, there is not always the technical possibility of gasification of a suburban building;
2. Using electric heaters. If power supply networks are connected to the country house, you can use this option. Its main advantage is ease of use. In this case, you need to be prepared for astronomical light bills, as well as for the fact that it will still be pretty cool in the house;
3. Stove heating. You can choose brick ovens for summer cottages, which will be heated with wood. This is the most economical option and is also considered environmentally friendly. Brick country stoves have good heat transfer, they are easy to operate. In addition, you can lay out a brick oven for a summer residence on your own. This method also has some disadvantages. For example, the fact that the process of melting the stove takes some time is somewhat more difficult to do than to plug the heater into a power outlet and press the "On" button. However, a little practice will solve this problem completely.

You should also take into account the fact that a brick stove for a summer residence will occupy part of the area of ​​the room; you will also need to provide a place for storing firewood.

Having made a decision on the device for stove heating, you should determine what kind of stove you need for a summer residence. The most popular are three options, which differ in the material from which the oven is made:

Views	Advantages	disadvantages	Note
Cast iron	· Compactness; Keeping warm for a long time	Fragility; Susceptibility to the effects of sudden temperature changes	Combustion products are discharged through a special sleeve
Metal	· Compactness; Fast warming up of the room	· Quickly loses heat; Destruction of seams during prolonged use is possible	Must be made of heat-resistant steel
Brick	· Reliable and durable; · Keeps warm for a long time; Can solve the issue of heating several rooms at the same time	Large volume of construction	If you have certain skills, you can arrange a stove - a fireplace, which will perfectly complement and decorate any interior. And having provided a hob on the stove, you can use the stove not only for heating, but also for cooking. If you want to feel warmth and comfort on frosty days, while resting in a country house, you can think about a stove with a stove bench.

Preparing for the construction of the furnace

In order for a summer cottage stove to turn out to be reliable and durable, as well as to perform its functions efficiently, it is necessary to be very careful about the choice of materials. To build a furnace you will need:

• bricks (they must be heat-resistant);
• sand;
• water;
• cement;
• steel reinforcement;
• roofing material;
• steel sheet.

You also need to prepare a set of tools, including: grinder, electric drill, trowel, level and tape measure.

If the construction work is done correctly, then the structure will last at least 20 - 25 years before it is necessary to overhaul a brick oven in the country.

You should pay attention to the following important nuances:

1. The presence of cracks in the structure, even the smallest ones, is absolutely unacceptable. Through them, carbon monoxide, harmful to the body, will enter the room;
2. Before installing a brick oven for a summer residence, you should carefully read the fire safety rules;
3. It is very important to correctly calculate the size of the firebox. The duration of burning firewood directly depends on it. However, it is also impossible to make it too big - the design of the furnace will turn out to be too cumbersome;
4. It is also necessary to provide for the external finishing of the stove so that it organically fits into the interior.

Step-by-step instructions for building a brick country oven

For the construction of brick ovens, only the best materials of the highest quality should be taken, so you cannot save on them. To reduce the amount of expenses, you can refuse the services of a hired bricklayer. A brick oven for a summer residence with your own hands is quite realistic and quite economical.

This table shows a diagram of how to lay out a brick oven in the country:

Step number	Name
1	Location determination	1. A solid base is required for the design of the oven. If the appropriate measures to strengthen the floor structure and its foundations were not carried out at the stage of building the house, then they can be carried out before starting the installation of the furnace; 2. If the room is small or you need to heat several adjacent rooms, it is recommended to arrange the stove in the corner. This option is not suitable for rooms with a square of 25 m2 or more - in this case, it is better to move the stove closer to the center of the wall; 3. It is imperative to provide for a chimney to the street, and the wall in which it will pass must be located in the immediate vicinity of the stove.
2	Base device	For such a massive structure, it is necessary to provide for a foundation - stone or concrete. For its device, you will have to partially disassemble the wooden floor (if any). A monolithic concrete foundation is considered quite reliable and not too complicated in terms of installation: · Excavation is carried out. A depth of 0.5 - 0.7 m is sufficient; · The bottom must be lined with at least two layers of waterproofing materials. In this case, it is permissible to use a film, roofing material, as well as special materials to protect foundation structures from moisture; · Fill the bottom with a layer of sand and gravel. It is advisable to take a river, and the thickness of the sand preparation should be at least five centimeters. After filling, it must be carefully tamped either manually or with the help of special tampers; · The formwork is arranged; · It is necessary to fill in a layer of cement mortar with a thickness of 0.2 m. When preparing it, you should pay attention to the fraction of sand, and also make sure that there are no foreign impurities - they can have a negative effect on the strength of the finished base structure; · Reinforcement mesh is laid out. For it, it is better to use reinforcing rods with a diameter of 2 cm. If a device of a massive structure is supposed, then two rows of reinforcement can be provided, the distance between which should be 10-15 cm; · Pour the next layer of concrete mortar; · The foundation is gaining strength (approximately within twenty days). If the weather is hot, it is recommended to periodically wet the surface of the structure with water, or, if this is not possible, just cover it with plastic wrap. It is possible to speed up the process of solidification of the base - for this you need to organize constant airing of the room where it is located. This will reduce waiting times by about three to five days.
3	Bricklaying device	For laying the furnace structure, it is recommended to use a special heat-resistant mortar, which can be found in construction outlets. If desired, you can use your own solutions, however, this can negatively affect the service life of the finished structure. · Between the foundation and the first folded row of masonry, a waterproofing layer should be provided. The most budgetary options are roofing material or polyethylene; · It is permissible to lay out the first row using fireclay bricks; · During the laying of the second row, an ash chamber must be provided. At its bottom, it is required to lay a steel sheet of great thickness. The height of the ash chamber is not strictly regulated. Also at this stage, the blower door must be installed; · It is permissible to start the installation of the internal metal frame after the third row has been laid out.
4	Firebox and its arrangement	This is one of the most critical and time consuming parts of the future oven. The standard height of this chamber is usually 4 bricks, but the height can be increased if it is necessary to heat rooms with a large area. · It is required to make markings for the installation of grates on the brickwork; · In order to cut the grooves, you will need to use a grinder. In this case, the angle must be maintained in such a way that the resulting groove repeats the dimensions of the grate as accurately as possible; · Another two or three rows of masonry are being erected.
5	Installation of the slab	· Cut a groove with a grinder in the upper laid out row of masonry; · Install a metal corner in the prepared groove. It should be mounted on a heat-resistant mortar, and a layer of thermal insulation should be laid on top; · Install the hob (only after the final hardening of the solution and firm fixation of the corner).
6	Chimney device	The chimney can be made either of steel, or, like the entire structure of the furnace, of brick. If we talk about the design plan, then one or several moves can be envisaged. If the chimney is used correctly, then it is possible to warm up the air in almost the entire house thanks to the hot smoke. In the case when the choice is made in favor of a simple structure made of brick or metal, then you can do it yourself. Otherwise, it is better to seek help from professionals.
7	Finishing work	Fireclay brick itself does not look very aesthetically pleasing. Therefore, if you want a brick oven for a summer residence to perform not only heating, but also decorative functions, you should pay attention to finishing work. Before arranging the cladding, it is imperative to provide a thermal insulation layer on the surface of the main masonry. At the same time, it is not recommended to use ordinary film for these purposes. Better to take a special basalt - cardboard. Moreover, its thickness should be at least 0.5 cm.

Professional bricklayers advise using the following recommendations, in order to carry out work on the construction of a brick oven for a summer residence was easier, and the result was of high quality:

1. The entire volume of required bricks should be purchased from one batch. Before purchasing, be sure to check the material for visible defects. The material should be purchased with a margin of at least 10 - 15% of the required volume;
2. If the masonry is made of refractory bricks, then the recommended thickness of the joints should be 0.3 cm, but if we are talking about red brick, then this value is slightly larger and is 0.5 cm;
3. To simplify further work and somewhat speed up the process of laying the masonry, you can first lay out the bricks according to the scheme of the future masonry and use a marker (it is better to take a waterproof one) to number them;
4. If a red brick is used, then you can place it in water until air bubbles are released. This usually takes up to five days. This will help make the structure stronger and extend its service life;
5. When work is carried out (especially in the area of ​​the combustion chamber and chimney), the remains of the solution must be removed with a damp cloth before it hardens;
6. When performing work in the chimney area, in order for it to function as efficiently as possible in the future, it is necessary to ensure the maximum smoothness of the inner surface.

Detailed video instructions for laying a brick oven

A DIY brick oven is the ideal heating equipment. It is also very convenient that you can cook food on it. Many of the stove models perfectly combine functionality and economy in masonry and use. Thanks to the stove, the room is not only heated. It also helps to regulate air humidity. This is facilitated by the porous structure of the brick: when heated, it gives off moisture, and during cooling it takes it back.

Self-laying oven: what you need to consider

The brick stove has always been considered a functional and economical option for home heating. Brick is a practical material that has many positive qualities. The brick has a "breathing" structure, thanks to which the air in the room does not lose moisture. That is why stove heating is considered safe for health.

A brick oven can work on any type of solid fuel: coal, wood, pellets, etc.

The efficiency of some stoves reaches 80 to 90 percent, which means that the stove can compete in efficiency with Buleryan. You can lay the oven yourself. The room should provide for oven masonry. Masonry can be done in different ways.

What you need to consider when laying the oven yourself:

• The stove should be laid on an independent foundation if it will consist of 500 bricks and have its own chimney. It is important that the foundation of the stove is not tied to the foundation of the house. It must be located at a certain distance.
• A low-rise stove, which is characterized by a large hob with a heating plate, can be installed without laying a foundation. It is only important to perform thermal insulation and strengthen the floor where the additional joists are located.
• It is important to ensure that the ceiling beams do not touch the chimney. The chimney should be positioned above the roof ridge.

To lay a standard oven, you will need 1 or 1.5 thousand bricks. If the house has a sectional strip foundation, then the stove foundation is laid in a specially designated place, preferably under the inner walls. Previously, the stove was laid in every home. In our time, it can be rather considered exotic.

DIY stove: types of designs

The brick oven is easy to use and functional. It acts as a device for heating the house, equipped with hobs, an oven and a stove bench. The design of the stove can be very varied and original.

Usually, brick ovens are tiled or tiled, turning it into a real work of art.

They put the stove with their own hands, following the ordering instructions, which today can be easily found on the Internet. The order shows how and where to place each brick. Of course, it is good if you have experience as a bricklayer, since brick laying must be done according to a special scheme. Before starting laying, it is important to correctly calculate the number of bricks and decide on the design of the furnace. For this, it is very important to take into account the characteristics of a particular room.

Furnace designs:

• Russian. It can have a wide variety of sizes and is famous for its high efficiency.
• Dutch woman and stupid. The design of the furnace is such that the movement of gases through it contributes to the achievement of efficiency from 90 to 95 percent. The oven is almost free of soot, which minimizes cleaning.
• Swede. A kind of heating and cooking oven. It is used for cooking, heating the room. It is also fashionable to integrate an oven into it.

Each of the furnaces has its own characteristics that should be considered when choosing a type of construction. In order to correctly calculate the amount of material for laying the stove, it is necessary to decide on the diagram of the future design. Usually, several types of bricks are used for laying the furnace: ceramic and refractory.

How to fold a brick oven with your own hands

To properly lay the Swedish woman, you must first download the construction drawings on the Internet. The most important is the masonry of the first row. It is important to make sure that the bricks are laid evenly: for this it is tedious to use a level. The corners of the masonry are controlled using a construction square.

It is important to understand that it is the first row of bricks that affects the correct laying of the remaining rows.

The first part of the furnace is equipped with a blower, for laying a three-quarter brick is used. Laying the second row begins with the installation of blower doors. The third row is laid out following the order.

Step-by-step instruction:

1. In the fourth row, they are installing the cleaning door. To make the ash pan square, the bricks are chipped, based on the size of the hole. The fifth row is also performed, but the ash pan opening has a tapered design.
2. For laying the sixth row, refractory bricks are used. Before laying near the grate, chipping of bricks is done. They do this for the convenience of fuel loading. It is important that the grating rests against the back row of bricks. Do not forget about the additional distance between the sixth row of masonry and the grate: this void will serve to collect ash and sand.
3. In the seventh row, the combustion door is installed. The eighth and ninth rows are laid out similarly, but the bricks of the latter must be cut off on both sides: this will allow the gases to smoothly flow from the furnace chamber into the channel.

For laying the tenth row, refractory bricks are used. Brick laying must be strictly regulated, since it must lie strictly vertically. To do this, you need to use the building level. In this row, the burner door is laid from above. Ceramic bricks are used for laying the eleventh row. In this row, a hob is laid, with which the firebox is covered. In the same row, a large door for the cooking chamber is installed. Continued instructions can be found in the next section.

Step-by-step instructions: how to fold the stove with your own hands

In the twelfth row, the channels are combined so that they correspond to a rectangular shape. In the fourteenth row, they are installing a damper, which contributes to the autonomous operation of the hob, while the oven does not heat up completely. Thanks to the shutter, the stove can be used for cooking in summer.

The fifteenth row is used to overlap the flap, and the sixteenth row overlaps the doors of the cooking chamber.

A ventilation door is placed in front of the chamber and the left chamber: it helps to remove steam and odor during cooking. The seventeenth row covers the ventilation door. And above the cooking chamber, a pair of steel rods are inserted into the masonry, which are used to lay the next floor.

Subsequent rows:

• The eighteenth and nineteenth rows overlap the cooking chamber. The plan is equipped with only two left channels.
• In the twentieth row, the bricks are laid “on the edge” where the cooking chamber overlaps. The back wall is 4 cm away from the bricks.
• The twenty-second row covers all doors and is equipped with two square ducts.
• In the twenty-third row, the overlap of two long channels is performed, laying the bricks "on the edge". The twenty-fourth row is laid in a similar way.
• Laying the twenty-fifth and sixth rows is similar to laying the twenty-second row.

Particular attention should be paid to laying the twenty-ninth row. It is equipped with only one channel. On the front wall, two bricks are laid. They are recessed by half and rest on bricks placed on the edge. The rest of the rows are laid according to the scheme.

Putting a stove with good heat dissipation on your own is not so difficult. The device can be installed in a wooden or brick house. It is possible to lay out the stove correctly only if the design scheme is selected correctly and meets the characteristics of the room.

The construction of a long-burning stove should be carried out following special instructions that can be said on the Internet.

Stone home stoves are distinguished by high efficiency and functionality, if their structure is made according to all the rules, therefore, when installing on your own, you need to listen to the advice of the stove-maker. It is important to do everything efficiently, then the rough will serve for many years. If the stove has been used for many years, and it has begun to malfunction, the rough can be shifted, and not rebuilt.

Tips for laying the oven:

• If we are building a stove in the house, it is important that a separate foundation is made for it.
• The construction of the stove must be thought out in advance. It is very important to take into account the features of the room and determine in advance the location of the oven.
• The rules and some secrets of laying the stove from professional craftsmen can be found on the Internet.

A charcoal stove can be placed in a house with any area, the main thing is to correctly calculate its dimensions. It is better to prepare heating projects even before the end of the construction of the house. To create a warm atmosphere in the house, we put a flood. It is with them that a Russian or Ukrainian stove can be supplemented. A stove is used to decorate the stove and flood.

How to fold the oven with your own hands: step by step instructions (video)

Laying the stove is not difficult if you follow the instructions strictly. It is important to carefully consider the installation of the firebox and other important components of the stove. You can assemble a stove from 750 or 1100 bricks. Their number depends on the size of the room. For laying the Dutch woman, you can use chipped bricks. One of the most common schemes for laying a stove is the "well" scheme.

Do-it-yourself oven, drawings, videos that you watch will help you get an idea of ​​how a three-channel heating kitchen brick oven is made.

Consider the order of the oven, which we will do with our own hands:
First

Second

We install a blower door with a size of 130x140 (mm)

Third

Fourth

Instead of cast-iron doors for cleaning channels, we will install two halves of a brick on the edge.

Fifth

Sixth

We lay the grate 370x240 (mm). To install it, we cut a niche in the bricks so that there is a one centimeter gap around the grate perimeter.

Seventh

We cut two bricks at an angle of forty-five degrees towards the grate to roll the coals into the firebox.
We install the first smoke damper, which, when open, ensures the summer mode of the furnace.
We will install a furnace door with a size of 250x180 (mm).

Eighth

Ninth

Tenth

We will grind the edges of the brick in the form of an oval, for better passage of gases with the least resistance.

To clean the channels, place half a brick on the edge.

Eleventh

Let's cut grooves in bricks for installing a 300x720 (mm) kitchen stove.

Twelfth

Thirteenth

Fourteenth

Likewise, the twelfth.

Fifteenth

Let's grind off the edges of the brick in the shape of an oval.

Sixteenth

Seventeenth

Eighteenth

Nineteenth

We install the second smoke damper.
Twentieth, ordering as in the eighteenth.

Twenty first

In addition, you can watch a video for a complete perception of the masonry process

So, you can assemble an inexpensive oven with your own hands.

The device and diagrams of ovens for the home

1.Scheme of masonry heating stove from two tiers
2. Laying a square stove with bottom heating
3. Schemes of ovens for a house with a predominant bottom heating
4. The brickwork of the furnace, developed by V.

Grum-Grzhimailo
5. Bricklaying of the stove, created by the Thermal Engineering Institute

Conventionally, heating stoves can be divided into two categories: modern devices and outdated designs. Instead of imperfect heating units used for a long time, manufacturing companies produce improved models of heating devices based on the latest technologies.

But in private households and suburban summer cottages, heating brick stoves are still widely used, while the schemes of stoves for the house are very diverse.

Unfortunately, from year to year, there are fewer and fewer experienced stove-makers who are able to repair or alter them.

Nowadays, classic wood-burning stoves for houses, which have characteristic advantages, do not serve to heat rooms, but to give the interior a unique and distinctive character.

Layout of the heating stove masonry from two tiers

The device of bunk heating stoves, shown in the photo, is a structure of two parts, located one on top of the other.

The parameters of each of them are 165x51x238 centimeters. The heat transfer from the bottom of the furnace is 3200 kcal / hour, and the top is 2600 kcal / hour.

In furnaces for private households, brick lining with voids is provided in order to lighten the weight of the structure and save material consumption. Both parts of the bunk ovens have exactly the same design.

In such heating units, a channelless smoke circulation system is used. According to the layout of the stove, gases from the firebox enter the upper bell with a nozzle. After cooling down, the gases go down and, at the location of the bottom of the firebox, they go through the roll-up into the stacked chimney.
At the lower furnace, the chimney passes through the upper half of the structure. For this reason, the latter has a smaller heating surface.

The upper part of the structure has a separate chimney.

The device of a two-tier heating furnace is distinguished by the simplicity of laying bricks, and the gas movement scheme is simple. The lower half of the unit is cleaned through a door located in the rear wall, and for the upper part, such a door is located in the side wall (in more detail: "Heating stoves for the house - do-it-yourself masonry").

For the functioning of the heating structure, coal or anthracite is used. The pipes for both parts are equipped with two smoke dampers.

Usually, the upper part of the voids in two-tier heating furnaces is covered with solid reinforced concrete slabs, which contributes to the strength and stability of the entire structural array.

The laying of such stoves must be carried out at a high professional level, since their alteration or repair is not an easy task (read: "How to repair a brick stove with your own hands").

Carefully lay out the chimney for the lower part of the heating two-tier structure.
If leaks are allowed in the masonry, the wall separating both pipes in the upper part will allow heat to pass even if the two smoke dampers are closed.

In a single array, if desired, you can combine different types of furnaces that have a rectangular or square shape and operate on different types of fuel.

Diy oven laying schemes

Masonry of a square stove with bottom heating

The stove in the photo is distinguished by a combined or mixed system of smoke circulation. The parameters of this design are 102x102x238 centimeters. Its heat transfer is equal to 4200 kcal / hour.

The device of square-shaped heating stoves with bottom heating assumes that the firebox in it has a relatively high height.

Side holes (2 each) located symmetrically on both sides are used to drain gas into the chambers. They are located in the outer side walls of the structure.

The gas is then lowered through chambers connected by a channel under the firebox behind the ash compartment.

From the side chambers, gases enter the risers through the lower rolls and go up through them.

There, the side chambers all together form the so-called upper dome, which consists of three U-shaped cavities. These cavities are located in parallel. The heated gases are retained in the upper part of the middle and rear of them, and the already cooled waste products pass through the holes into the front plane, which at the top is connected to the stacked flue pipe and evaporates into the atmosphere. See also: "Heating stoves for mining."

Consequently, the schemes of furnaces for a square-shaped house with a bottom heating have 3 hoods - an upper hood and 2 large chambers.

Any type of solid fuel can be used in such a heating structure.
If it is planned that the stove will operate on coal or anthracite, the walls of the firebox should be laid out exclusively from refractory bricks.

Furnace schemes for a house with predominant bottom heating

If the heating structure has a predominant bottom heating, its size, as a rule, is 115x56x231 centimeters with a heat transfer rate of 2640 kcal / hour.

In accordance with the smoke circulation system, this stove is classified as a combined channel heating unit with bottom heating.

When a scheme for stove heating of a private house is created using such a design, it is understood that the flue gases will first descend from the firebox, and then rise up the riser to the ceiling (see also: "Kuznetsov's heating stoves: drawings and ordering with your own hands").

From there, along two parallel passages, they will go down to the 16th row of brickwork, and then go to the last of the risers, which turns into the chimney.

The above design is distinguished by a rational solution and simplicity, since it can provide good heating of the furnace in its lower part and it has self-regulating gas movement in both channels located in the upper part, which acts as a bell with a nozzle.
The principle of operation of the structure allows air to pass through the bottom of the hood and at the same time it does not cool down.

The brickwork of this stove is simple to implement and it can be built in the partition of the room in such a way that the fuel door and the front wall will go out into the corridor.

The unit can be operated on coal and wood.

Furnace masonry, designed by V. Grum-Grzhimailo

Shown in the photo, a channelless scheme for laying a heating stove was developed by Professor V.

Grum-Grzhimailo. There is no smoke circulation in this heating structure. It has a rounded shape and is housed in a case made of sheet steel. The gases move in the furnace not due to the draft created by the chimney, but due to the force of gravity. As a result, cooled and heavier gases descend to the bottom, and hot light ones rise to the top.

This device of a stove for a house consists of two parts - a firebox is located at the bottom.

In its ceiling there is a small hail (mouth), which ensures the passage of flue gases to the upper part, which is a chamber without smoke circulation.
It looks like an overturned cap, shaped like a glass.

Due to this feature, such heating structures are called channelless or bell-type.

The heated gases in them do not enter their mouths into the chimney, since they first go up under the ceiling, and when they cool down, they descend along the walls to the base.

From here they enter the chimney and, under the influence of the draft, are carried away into the atmosphere. One vertical cut is located across the firebox, and the second horizontal cut along it.

Along the walls of the structure, from the ceiling in the direction of the vault, there are buttresses designed to increase the internal surface of heat absorption and for better heat absorption by the brick mass from the exhaust gases.

The fins heated by gases allow the stove to retain heat for a longer time.

The efficiency of the structure developed by Grum-Grzhimailo reaches 80%. The iron case allows you to carry out masonry with a thickness of only a quarter of a brick, moreover, the unit heats up quickly enough. See also: "Which brick oven for the house is better - types, advantages and disadvantages."

The creation of this oven is not difficult.

Its advantages are as follows:

- in the event that the smoke damper on the chimney is not closed tightly, the upper part of the device will not cool from cold air entering the firebox.

Air entering the fuel compartment through the slots in the ash pan and fuel door rises through the mouth. But since it is heavier than the hot gases in the bell, it immediately overflows into the side channels and goes into the chimney. As a result, the entire part under the high is not cooled.

As for the disadvantages of the scheme of stoves for a house of this design, the main one is the predominant heating of the upper part. To slightly level this minus, it is necessary to arrange holes in the walls of the firebox in the 5th row of brickwork.

The stove functions perfectly on lean coal and anthracite. If the unit is heated with wood, especially damp wood, the gaps between the buttresses will be clogged with soot. It will be quite difficult to clean them, since the cleaning doors are located in the 8th row, which does not allow to completely get into all the gaps of the buttresses and then the smoke will enter the main pipe.

Channelless structures, created on the principle of free movement of gases, are made rectangular or square.

They are performed either in a metal case or without it. In the second case, the walls of the hood should be made thicker up to half a brick. See also: "Brick shield for a metal oven."

Furnace masonry, created by the Thermal Engineering Institute

Furnace schemes for the home, developed at the Thermal Engineering Institute by engineer Kovalevsky, have a size of 100x85x217 centimeters.

They use a mine-type firebox designed for the use of coal.

Through the channel, flue gases enter under the ceiling, from where they enter two side channels. Then they follow to the very bottom and move along the collecting channel into the smoke stack. If the smoke damper is open, then the gases are vented to the atmosphere.
The peculiarity of the furnace arrangement scheme lies in the different thickness of the walls of the smoke circulation channels.

The first of them, coming from the firebox, is called the fire channel. It has a 3/4 brick outer wall. The rest of its walls are placed in half a brick.

This heating structure does not fit into an iron casing. Its masonry is simple.

The efficiency of the furnace of engineer Kovalevsky is 75-80%. The disadvantage of the heating unit is the possibility of overheating its upper part, since the hottest gases are sent to it. Down the oven, they will fall completely cooled, as a result of which the degree of heating of the lower part is insufficient.

A certain amount of gases from the firebox enters the side channels through the screws, which increases the heating of the lower part of the outer walls (read also: "Gas stove for the house - comfortable heating").

Smoke systems are freed from soot deposits by cleaning them. The grate can be pulled out and thereby facilitate the maintenance of the combustion chamber by draining slag into an ash pan or a steel box located under the grate. Smoke in the structure is discharged into a casing pipe.

To date, these brick ovens are preferred to build by the owners of country houses and summer cottages.

In the struggle to save fuel, and therefore money, improved designs began to appear.

Now there are a considerable number of different types of new heating devices, which can also be paid attention to.

An interesting diagram of a stove for a home is shown in the video:

Furnace masonry

First we lay out the bricks of the first row without mortar, taking into account the seam according to the order. Having determined the position of the corner bricks, we put them on the mortar, using a level, checking the horizontal position. With light blows from a mallet, we upset the protruding bricks. Having achieved horizontality, we fill the perimeter of the first row with bricks and mortar, controlling the masonry with a level.

Using a tape measure, we check the dimensions of the oven in plan and diagonal. The diagonals in the rectangle must be equal. If the diagonals are not equal, then we knock out the corner bricks until we achieve their equality, thereby obtaining the parallelism of the sides of the perimeter. After that, we lay the middle of the first row with a brick on a mortar.

Having laid the first row, we put the corner bricks of the second row, controlling the verticality of the corners using a level or plumb line. Similarly to the first row, we first lay out the perimeter, and then the middle of the second row according to the order.

Having laid out the second row, we hammer in the corners into the seam between the first and second row nails 80-100mm long.

Then we lower the plumb line alternately at all corners of the second row and mark the points on the ceiling from which the plumb line is lowered.

Then we hammer the same nails into these points, tie the nylon cord to the corresponding nails and pull it.

We check the verticality of the cords with a plumb line. If there are deviations, then we eliminate them by bending the upper nails. Thus, the contour of the furnace is obtained in space. We carry out the laying of subsequent rows, controlling the verticality of the corners along the cords, which significantly reduces the time required for control.

We put the subsequent rows in the same way as the first two, checking each row with the order.

In the course of masonry, we clean the inner and outer surfaces of the excess of the squeezed out solution with a trowel. After laying out every 4-5 rows, wipe the walls of the chimneys with a wet rag.

The thickness of the seam of the oven masonry should be as thin as possible.

How to fold a brick oven with your own hands

In thick seams, the mortar crumbles and the masonry becomes fragile. The mortar should fill the seam tightly, squeezing out of it. During laying, we observe the rule of binding bricks. Each vertical seam should be covered with bricks from the next top row.

Usually such a seam runs in the middle of the brick lying above. This, however, is not always possible to achieve. In some places it is necessary to lay bricks so that the overlap is less than half the length of the brick. In any case, it should be at least a quarter of the brick length.

It is better to lay out the firebox of the furnace from fireclay bricks, because

it can withstand higher temperatures. Ligation of the seams of fireclay and oven bricks is not desirable due to the different coefficient of linear expansion.

Therefore, either a whole row is laid out of fireclay bricks, or the firebox is lined on the edge. Leave a gap of at least 5 mm between the lining and fireclay bricks.

Installation of cleaning and blowing doors

Before installing the door, we check for the tightness of the canvas to the frame, free rotation of the canvas in the hinges, the absence of distortions, the possibility of fixing their closure and the presence of holes for fastening in the masonry.

We eliminate any defects found before installation or replace the door.

We insert a knitting wire 50-60 cm long into the openings of the doors, fold it in half and twist it.

We apply mortar to the brickwork at the place of installation of the door. We install the door, check the verticality and horizontalness and fix it with bricks.

Then we put the ends of the wire into the seams of the masonry.

Installing the grate

When installing stove appliances, it must be remembered that cast iron and brick do not expand equally when heated.

This is especially true for the behavior of devices installed in a high temperature zone. If they are tightly walled up in the oven masonry, then when heated, the cast iron will tear the masonry. Therefore, the grate, furnace door and stove should be installed with gaps. We lay the grate without mortar with a gap of at least 5 mm on all sides. It should be freely removed for replacement in case of burnout or breakage.

Installing the firebox

The combustion door is installed in the same way as the blower door, only it is wrapped in asbestos to fill the temperature gap.

We check the verticality and horizontalness of the door and fix it with bricks and boards.

If the oven is used intensively, the wire may burn out. To prevent this, the upper part of the door can be secured with a clamp. The clamp is made of strip steel with a section of 25x2.0 mm. The ears should protrude from the door frame by 100-120 mm.

The clamp is attached to the door using rivets or bolts with nuts.

The door is closed by hanging half a brick on each side

or brick in the castle.

For an opening larger than 250 mm, the overlap is made with a wedge lintel.

Installing the stove

The row on which it will be installed, we lay out the plate first without mortar.

We put the plate on top and outline its location. Then we select a groove in the brick, taking into account a temperature gap of 5 mm in all directions from the slab. We spread the brick on the mortar. We fill the groove with a solution, put an asbestos cord in it along the perimeter of the slab, lower the slab into place and upset it with a mallet, making it horizontal in level.

Installing the oven

The oven is also wrapped with asbestos around the perimeter and half a brick wide.

The side of the oven facing the firebox is laid out with a brick on the edge, and on top it is covered with a layer of solution of 25-30 mm to prevent the oven walls from burning out.

Laying of arches and vaults

When laying stoves, it is often necessary to close various furnace openings, fireboxes and all kinds of chambers, using jumpers of a simple and complex shape. The overlap in the wall is called an arch, and the overlap between the walls is called a vault.

The number of bricks in the arch and rows in the arch must be odd. The middle odd brick is a castle brick.

Any jumper begins with the laying of heels, which are performed according to the template. Since the height of an arch or vault is different, the angle of the heel also changes.

You cannot use one heel shape for all arches and vaults.

These photos show the installation of the circle and the laying of the arched ceiling of the barbecue firebox.

And the following photos show the laying of the vault to cover the niche for firewood.

They say that it is better to see once than to read 100 times, so especially for you, I have prepared a video guide "Do-it-yourself ovens", which shows all the nuances of laying a brick oven in video format.

I define the basic rules for laying the stove, which may not even be known to the stove journalist or to the person who decided to turn on the stove:

The weight of the oven with the pipe installed without a base must not exceed 750 kg.

This is about 0.5 m of walls or 200 bricks.
If you lay the base of the slab, you should check the possibility of switching the chimney between the support beams in the attic and the shingles.
The base of the stove should not be tied to the base of the house, and the structure of the stove must not be covered by the supporting structures of the building.

You can let them sit at the cut and swelling sites. This is done in order to avoid damage to the slab in the event of unequal settlement of the house.
Wooden elements of the house and smoke should be at least a quarter of a meter.
If the oven is not to be closed, the water for the wall mortar must be potable or rain water without salt, otherwise all the salt on the brick surface will appear as a white coating.
The mortar sand should be used by the quarry (not the river) because the river sand particles have a rounded surface which makes the mortar brittle.
Stove and fireplace - brick column on clay mortar.

And even the smallest heels or side impacts from the load-bearing structures of home cracks form, which can cause a fire.

What to look for when making brick bricks

Protect yourself and make sure that the oven lasts as long as possible - this is the main task of building a solid base, horizontal wall and verticality of the massage itself.

Therefore, after laying the foundation, the upper platform must be carefully planned. A layer of roofing felt is applied to it, 1-2 cm of sand is poured from above and leveled, and the first colorless brick is placed. Repair the gasket and press the hammer on the protruding bricks. The horizontalness of each line is checked using the level specified in the rule. The squareness of the first line is checked by comparing the length of the diagonal.

As you place each line, check for flatness using a rule on the wall. After installing the two types, in order to ensure that the furnace box is vertical, you need to pull out strings with a thickness of 1-3 mm at the corners of the wall.

The ceiling attachment points are defined by the tow line. Above, the water line descends so that the weight drops to the top of the outside corner of the oven. On the floor on the ceiling, from which the groove descends, the nail tilts, a rope is attached to it. At the lower end, the second nail is tied and pulls the rope, insert the nail under the corner brick of the first row so that the cable is strictly stretched along the corner.

Then the vertical line of the rope is exposed to the action of the tray, which bends the top nail in the desired direction. So repeat all four corners.
The seams should be 5 mm thick. To do this, place the strips for laying around the edges of the joint, spread the mortar, place the brick and place it in place with a kick from the handle. Remove the spacers after the solution has dried.
External walls should not have more than two types without stitching, otherwise cracks may occur.
The proportion of bricks can be obtained with the help of the Bulgarian, and the wall should be kept to a minimum, as the brick is more susceptible to collapse.
Parts of the cigarettes are located side by side in the seams.
In the area that changes the direction of the flow of the smoky bottom, the door is always defined as a cleaning opening, or better “pushing the brick” that extends 5-10 mm from the wall is easier to understand than the necessary cleaning of the chimney.
The gasket should be planned so that the brick does not rely solely on the doorframe or oven, but is locked over them or made with a wedge-shaped lock or vaulted roof.

This is done to facilitate the replacement of unsuccessful furnace equipment.
Clamps (narrow metal profiles) as well as other steel parts should be used less as metal takes longer to heat up than clay and can no longer break from this coupling. To avoid this, place the steel strips loosely, without mortar, or wrapped in a layer of asbestos.

The oven door, including the oven, is positioned so that it can be heated without touching the wall. If you want to do this, you can use 5 mm asbestos that you come into contact with in the vineyard.
The grate and cast iron plate are placed with a minimum pitch of 5 mm on all sides so that they can be easily removed for replacement.

Place them without mortar (you can place the plate on the asbestos or asbestos layer) and fill the slots with sand.
The grates should be placed in the firebox under the smoke of smoke up to 70-150 mm, so as not to fall out when the coal door is opened and laid along the grooves of the firebox, and the ash will be difficult to clear when preparing the stove for subsequent ignition.
Doors and corners must be fixed in the wall, which is screwed into the holes and steel wire with twin wires.

At the other ends of the twist, past the nail and pull the wire, hold it in the nearest vertical seam.
The space between the oven and the side of the oven should be covered with bricks.
The length of the chimney, regardless of the chimney frame, should not exceed 7 m, otherwise the sediment will be insufficient and smoke will occur in the chimney.
The walls of the chimneys must be flat and level.

The vertical channels do not get to the solution in the chicken inside the oven, and the foam plug is wrapped in a damp cloth and suspended inside the chimney by a wire.

Remove and clean it periodically, make canopy out of the canal with a damp cloth.
For fire safety, the distance from the ceiling of the oven to the ceiling must be at least 35 cm.
For the same purpose, the overlap must consist of at least three types of continuous blocks.
Place a metal heating sheet to protect the floor under the stove's fireplace.
The approximate ratio of the size of the fireplace inlet to the surface of the heated area is 1:70.
The ratio of the cross-sectional area of ​​a rectangular tube at a height of 5 m to the area of ​​the entrance to the fireplace should be about 13%, a chimney height of 10 m - about 10%.
In case of prevailing wind, a fire must be installed (or, as you call it, a smoke chamber, an umbrella on a pipe, a cap on a pipe).

Protects the oven from smoking in windy conditions and protects it when it rains. Tags:

Knowledge, Domostroy

Heating stoves made of bricks

Since ancient times, brick has been used to build a furnace. Thanks to modern technologies, it has become possible to use other building materials for these purposes.

Despite this, brick remained in the leading position among all masonry materials; brick heating ovens are in great demand.

Many people build stoves for the house on their own, since this process is quite simple.

To build a brick oven with your own hands, you need to have a little understanding of construction. It will not be difficult to install such a stove, since it does not require further cladding. (See also: Brick sauna stove)

Such work requires a small number of tools, namely:

• Capacity for solution preparation.
• Emery tool.
• Construction pencil.
• Pliers.

Types of brick ovens

Currently, there are certain types of brick heating stoves, some of which are intended for heating homes, others for cooking tasty and healthy homemade food, and still others perform only decorative functions.

There are also known models that perform several functions at once, these include a brick heating and cooking stove. This type of oven is also called "Swede", and in some areas they are called "Dutch".

Fireplace stoves are no less famous.

In this case, the opinions of different people are divided. Some people think that the fireplace should be separate, others are quite satisfied with the built-in stove.

The second option is the most economical in terms of space and use of consumables. Such an oven heats up the room quickly enough. In addition, a brick mini-oven with your own hands does not require much knowledge and skills in construction.

This means that it can become a decoration for absolutely any home.

A brick brazier oven is a simple device, although it looks quite complicated. This stove can be used as an alternative to an ordinary barbecue.

Therefore, its construction in the yard of your own house will not be difficult. (See also: Brick stoves for summer cottages)

It is important to remember: the orders of brick ovens belonging to a particular type are strikingly different from each other.

Requirements for ovens

Most of the sites that are devoted to this topic set themselves the task of selling a finished furnace project. And what about people who decide to build a stove on their own, but they do not have enough experience and knowledge to create projects of brick heating stoves.

To make your job much easier, you need to understand what the requirements are for modern brick ovens.

It is worth noting that these parameters are used by professional architects when drafting projects of absolutely all types of brick ovens. The list of requirements includes: (See also: DIY oven construction)

1. Profitability.
2. The ability to keep warm for a long time.
3. Compliance with fire safety standards.
4. Good heating of the entire oven volume.
5. Easy to operate.
6. Serviceability.
7. Durability.
8. Beautiful design.

Preparing for the construction of the furnace: determining the location

The laying of brick heating stoves begins with determining its location, based on their purpose.

It is best to place the heating stove in the center of the house, since if at least one side of it adjoins the wall facing the street, its efficiency will be lost. In addition, unwanted temperature changes may occur, which negatively affect the life of the hearth. And also on the efficiency of the chimney.

The combination oven should be located in the same way as the heating one.

The only condition is that the brick fireboxes face the kitchen. A fireplace stove should be located in the living room as a fireplace.

Preparation of the solution

Next, you need to make a cement mortar. To prepare it, the clay is filled with water. Moreover, it must be sifted in advance, without stones. This will make the masonry more durable. (See also: Brick stove for summer cottages)

Important: a properly prepared clay solution is a guarantee of the stove's durability.

The soaked clay is mixed with the same amount of sand.

After that, water is poured into the container, the volume of which is equal to ¼ of the volume of clay. The solution must be thoroughly mixed so that there is not a single lump. The mortar must have a liquid consistency, so that when pressed on the brick, it squeezes out of the seam.

Dry masonry

Before you start laying bricks on the mortar, it is recommended to make dry masonry.

ATTENTION: in no case is it allowed to take measurements by eye, as this can lead to a disastrous result.

To keep the laying in the correct direction, it is necessary to check the verticality, the dressing of the seams, the internal structure, the correctness of the seams and the horizontal laying. (See also: How to lay the stove)

Furnace erection

Before using the brick, it is immersed in water for a few seconds. As a result, it will not absorb the moisture that the clay gives off.

When laying a brick, it is necessary to press it as hard as possible so that the mortar is squeezed out strongly.

Thus, a more durable construction can be achieved.Small-sized brick heating stoves require compliance with the thickness of the mortar due to their design features. It should be at least 3 and no more than 5 millimeters.

The excess solution is removed with a trowel, this will save it.

The oven door is secured with wire.

If this is neglected, play can form, which will lead to the door falling out. For a more secure fastening, the wire is inserted into the box and twisted in half. After that, you need to make a cut in the upper edge of the brick bar, into which the wire will be inserted.

Important: the connectors must line up with the door frame.

Even one millimeter gap should not be allowed to form.

At the end of the masonry, you need to dry the oven. To do this, you need to open all windows and doors. The oven will completely dry out only after 15 days. The fact that the stove is ready for use is evidenced by the disappearance of all damp traces.

Detailed instructions for laying a brick stove

After determining the place, the first row is placed, on which a sheet of thick plastic film, roofing material or waterproofing material is subsequently laid.

This is necessary for the waterproofing device. The size of the site should be 780 by 350 millimeters. After that, sand is sifted, which is then poured into a layer of one centimeter. To avoid the formation of protrusions, the platform is carefully leveled. The check is carried out by the building level.

In order not to be mistaken with the constructed structure, dry masonry is also checked by the building level. On this, the most important row can be considered ready.

After that, the entire surface is filled with a thin layer of mortar and a blower door is placed, which must be wrapped with asbestos cardboard and cords made of the same material.

The door is secured with annealed wire, after which you can prepare for the formation of the next row.

The third row must be laid out of fireclay bricks, which are painted yellow.

The grate is laid on the same row. The fourth row is laid on the edge. Also at this stage it is necessary to make special supports inside the chimney. It is worth noting that the bricks of the back wall are laid without using mortar.

Due to the fact that this space is made for wells, which are called areas for cleaning the furnace from soot, they are called knockout.

A little later, the furnace door is installed.

So that it can open from bottom to top, it is wrapped with an asbestos cord, and then fixed with wire. For some time it is propped up with bricks. So that it is installed strictly vertically.

The back wall is made with two bricks placed on the edge.

And already from the next row, the layer is laid out, starting with three fours.

Scheme and laying of brick ovens

This will allow the sutures to be bridged more firmly.

On the eighth row, the beveled brick is installed, which acts as a smoke tooth. Row 9 needs to be pushed back a little to provide support when opening the door. Before installing the hob, an asbestos cord is installed, which is pre-soaked in water. From the same row, a chimney is formed, which should expand into the fuel chamber.

This is done in order to prevent the passage of smoke into the room. At the very end, a chimney is mounted, which must be docked with a metal pipe. If it moves to the side, an overlap of three rows of bricks is required.

At the end of the work, the inside of the stove is cleaned from clay and water through the knockout brick.

A piece cut from polyethylene material is placed on the hob. This is done in order to avoid the appearance of yellowness in the future. This completes the brick oven with the stove. We must not forget that it will be possible to use it only after it is completely dry.

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Drawings of the stove for a brick bath

Drawings of a brick bath stove of a simple and compact design, which is used to generate steam and heat water.

The figure shows the construction of a brick oven, in section along two sections.

How order drawings help lay out brick ovens for the home

1. Red oven brick laying.
2. Refractory (fireclay) brick laying.
3. Furnace door.
4. Blower door.
5. Grate.
6. Metal tank for hot water.
7. Metal bunker for bath stones.
8. Smoke damper.

A drawing of the furnace, where its overall dimensions are indicated.

The firebox inside the furnace is made of refractory heat-resistant bricks. The gap between red and refractory bricks is 15 ... 20 (mm). A metal water tank is installed at the back of the firebox, at the level of the grate.

A metal bunker is installed on top of the firebox, into which stones are placed with a slide. The presented design with an open stove quickly heats up the steam room, and if the stones have cooled down, you can burn fuel while taking bath procedures.

Material specification:

• red brick, 65 х120 х 250 (mm) - 181 (pcs.)
• refractory refractory brick, 65 x 114 x 230 (mm) - 72 (pcs.)
• clay - 60 (kg)
• refractory clay - 35 (kg)
• sand - 32 (kg)
• smoke valve - 140 x 270 (mm)
• furnace door - 250 x 205 (mm)
• blower door - 250 x 135 (mm)
• cast iron grate - 250 x 252 (mm)
• water tank - 250 x 555 x 760 (mm), stainless steel sheet 3 (mm)
• bunker for stones - 260 x 320 x 350 (mm), stainless steel sheet 3 (mm)
• square metal mesh, wire diameter 2 (mm), mesh size 15 ... 20 (mm)

The laying of the stove for a sauna heater designed by E.Ya.

Kolomakin.

1st row. Solid brick masonry is displayed at or above the floor level.
2nd row. They install the blower door, start laying from refractory bricks, while strictly observing the rules for bandaging bricks.
3rd row. According to the order.
4th row. The blower door is laid with three bricks, the edges of which are cut off at an angle, as shown in the figure.

5th row. Grooves are cut out in refractory bricks and a grate is installed in them.
6th row. They put the firebox door and install a metal tank for hot water.

Reference:
Odd rows of red brick masonry, tied with a strip of welded square metal mesh.
At the corners, the mesh strip bends at a 90 ° angle.

The width of the groove for the grate should be 5 ... 8 (mm) larger than the outer dimensions of the grate.

7th and 8th row. According to the order.
9th row. The firebox door is laid with three bricks, the edges of which are cut off at an angle.
10, 11, 12th row. According to the order.

13th row. According to the order.
14th row. A metal tank for hot water is laid and a metal bin for stones is installed.

Drawing of a metal bunker for stones.

15, 16 row. According to the order.
17 row. Grooves are cut out in the bricks and a valve is installed in them.
Row 18. Closes the smoke damper.

Drawings of the stove for a brick bath, designed by E.Ya.

Kolomakin and the ordering scheme are considered in the presented material.

Reference:
Heating time for water and stones is 150 ... 180 (min.)

In the next article, you can familiarize yourself with the device of a sauna stove with a heat exchanger.