In the decoration of the walls of the bathroom, the main material is the tile. And for tiles, the evenness of the surface is very important. In this article, we will figure out how to level the walls in the bathroom, in which case they need to be leveled, when you can get by with little, and when you have to apply plaster.

When do you need to level the walls in the bathroom?

Before tiling walls with tiles, you need to study them for evenness, vertical and horizontal.

Whether it is necessary to use plaster in cases where there are significant level differences in all directions, or the wall has an irregular shape ( concavity, "belly").

To assess the real need for plaster, the master assesses the following parameters:

Our expert comment:“Often the problem is not even in the dewiness of the walls themselves, but in the wrong corners. The corners should be even, 90 degrees. If this is not the case, then the tiles will not fit evenly in the bathroom, and the furniture from the bathroom will not rise evenly. Basically, the plaster has to be done precisely because of the corners. ”

Checking is carried out using a building level, a rail, a plumb line, a thin cord, tape measure or using a laser level. All of these tools allow you to accurately determine the inaccuracies of finishing and assess the need for drastic measures. In cases where it is planned to lay tiles on walls, the level differences should not exceed 1 cm. If the value is greater, it will be noticeable visually.

If there are only small point irregularities on the wall

Minor irregularities with a generally flat wall, usually occur in cases of removing old tiles. After dismantling it, small indentations, roughness, protrusions may remain on the rough surface. Such irregularities are not critical, so you can get by with improvised means.

Important! In any case, check the evenness of the walls as a whole. Perhaps the last renovation was not done well, without taking into account the problems with the walls.

Spot irregularities in some parts of the wall are easily repaired with putty. Usually, the grooves on the wall are covered with a solution of tile glue, because he is present at the facility anyway.

It is applied in a small layer, sufficient to hide a crack, depression, after which you need to wait 24 hours (be sure wait until the applied layer is completely dry). At the end of the day, the master proceeds directly to laying the tiles.

What if you need to plaster the walls?

If the walls of the bathroom are not even in general, then, of course, you will have to plaster them. Plaster mixes are used with drops of more than 1-1.5 cm. The main task here is to correctly set the beacons in level. It is important to avoid excessive consumption of plaster, because even an extra 1 cm of thickness is quite expensive.

The main advantage of plaster compared to drywall is space saving. It is sometimes easier to level the walls with drywall, but in this case the frame and the sheets themselves will “steal” a significant part of the bathroom area.

Before proceeding with the process of applying the ready-made solution, the walls must be free of dust, dirt, oil stains, which will reduce the level of adhesion.

More details about plastering and the plastering process can be found in a special article on ours. It is only worth mentioning that the main stages of the procedure are to install metal beacons, between which the solution is thrown. Its further leveling occurs as a rule, by distributing the mass from bottom to top.

How to plaster the walls in the bathroom?

When plastering walls in a bathroom, it is very important to take into account the operational characteristics of the room. The bathroom is an area of ​​high humidity, with frequent temperature changes and condensation. Therefore, it is important to choose the right type and grade of plaster that will withstand such difficult conditions.

First of all, the walls must be treated with a hydrophobic primer. This composition will strengthen the adhesion of the wall to the plaster and will be a barrier to the development of fungi, bacteria, which are just formed in a humid environment. One of the common hydrophobic primers is Ceresit CT 17.

The choice of plaster depends on the material of the rough base. For plastering concrete and brick walls, it is advisable to give preference to moisture-resistant cement compositions, such as Knauf Unterputz. If it is laid out from gypsum blocks, then the mixture should also be gypsum.

Aligning the walls in the bathroom under the tiles for different surfaces

Smooth the walls in the bathroom

Aligning the walls in the bathroom has its own characteristics. After all, here is a humid environment and if the work is not performed correctly, the plane can be deformed and become unusable.

How to align the walls in the bathroom under the tiles and how to do it correctly, we will consider today. Also, in the video in this article and in the photo, you can see the most difficult areas of work.

Using dry plaster

If there are large deviations of the wall from the axis, then you can level the walls of the bathroom with plasterboard, but it must be moisture resistant. Indeed, over the last time, dry-type plaster has become a fairly popular technique for repairs.

Choosing moisture resistant drywall

Attention: It should be borne in mind that it is advisable to use this method provided that the difference on the wall being repaired is by no means less than ten centimeters.

In order to achieve the maximum effect using gypsum plasterboard, you can use assembly glue and a simple drywall sheet (see How to glue drywall to the wall yourself). The most famous glue today belongs to the Knauf company and is called Perlfix.

• For the subsequent facing of each of the walls using gypsum board, it is necessary to take into account that the chosen base must meet certain requirements, namely, be strong and also without crumbling areas.
• Also, the wall must first be protected as much as possible from possible excess moisture.
• In no case should there be condensation or, for example, freezing in any places.
• All solutions used for repairs, oils and other agents that can have a negative effect on the properties of the adhesive interacting with the wall must be removed by you.
• In the future, the walls must be primed.
• If you want to optimize the repair process, it is better to cut to the required length right away. In this case, trimming should be carried out with the obligatory consideration of the need to leave gaps between the floor itself and the sheet, as well as the ceiling and the sheet.

Attention: Before the process of installing the gypsum board begins, the installation of all hidden wiring must be carried out.

Plaster leveling

How to align the walls in the bathroom is decided at the initial stage. It mainly depends on the size of the application layer and the material of the base plane. The first option has already been described above, this is drywall. But mostly people choose plaster.

It is necessary to consider this process in stages so that the need to align the walls in the bathroom under the tiles with your own hands does not become a problem. How to align the walls in the bathroom using this material will now be considered in detail.

Plane preparation

The first thing to do is prepare the wall for plastering. All actions at this stage depend solely on the wall material used.

Here are some things to watch out for:

• To prepare and cut seams on stone walls, you must use a special metal brush.
• If the bathroom walls are made of wood. it is important to purchase a wooden shingle. With its use, the arrangement of the following plan should be: the shingles are stuffed with the first layer diagonally, and with the second - at about 90 degrees relative to the first layer. The approximate distance between adjacent elements and the thickness of the shingles is about 1 centimeter. You can fill it on the wall using simple small carnations. Also recently, in case of need to plaster a wooden wall, a metal mesh is often used. Moreover, each of the cells should be no more than 4 cm by 4 cm in size.
• A brick wall should initially be cleaned of any debris, including elements of previous decoration, dust. Upon completion of this work, special seams are applied to it with a depth of no more than two centimeters. For high-quality creation of seams, use the simplest chisel.
• Concrete walls are subjected to basically the same treatment as any brick walls. The difference lies in the fact that after processing from the elements of the old finish, it is necessary to make small notches with a length of no more than 2 cm and a depth of no more than 1 cm. After that, each wall is carefully rubbed with a damp cloth and it remains to dry out before further work.

Preparing the mixture

It is better to choose a cement mortar for leveling the walls in the bathroom (see Cement plaster: doing it right). It is least susceptible to humid environments. If you are going to eat a dry mixture, then before you start creating the mixture, you must read the instructions that are written on the bottom of the package, since it already includes in its paragraphs all the most important points and it is worth paying attention to them during this process.

Attention: The mass of the mortar must be completely homogeneous. It is important to stir so many liters of pure water in the solution so that during further work, while you are running a spatula over the resulting solution, immediately spreading on it is not striking.

That is, the plaster, ideally, should still be diluted with some volume of water. Make sure that it does not become too liquid in any case. Keep in mind that more water will increase the time of the evaporation process. This can later become the reason for the compression of the base itself.

Application of the base coat

The first stage provides that the surface is cleaned of various dirt that may have accumulated. There is paint, dust, and much more. All you need to do in the end is to give the wall some roughness.

• After cosmetic cleaning, all noticeable irregularities and protrusions visible to the naked eye are eliminated. If you want the plaster to set better, it is important to apply special notches to the selected concrete wall. This can be done quickly enough with a chisel.
• There are cases when the base of the wall is a tree, in which case shingles are necessarily stuffed on it. There are situations when the old paint completely previously applied by the previous owners of the premises is simply not removed from the wall in the usual way.

Attention: If you find yourself hostage to such a situation, then you should forget about notches. After that, primer should be applied to the walls immediately.

The choice is made based on your reason:

• If the wall actively absorbs water and is loose, then it is best to use soil for it for deep penetration. This is primarily necessary for the successful setting of the prepared mortar, which will be based on plaster. Quite often they use a primer of the well-known brand Eunice, designed just for maximum deep penetration;
• If the surface you have chosen is dense, practically does not absorb water, or it is concrete, then to improve the adhesion process, you can use a primer from a similar company called "Concrete Active";
• If the surface does not differ in porosity, then the ideal option for use is a primer of the above brand, intended for high-quality construction work;
• It is important to use a primer during repairs so that the process of adhesion of the wall to the new layer is better. Some do not use it, but they risk it because the chances are great that the plaster simply will not be able to stick to the wall and will soon fall off. Also, if the wall is distinguished by high humidity, then under its influence, already on the final layer, you can notice various spots and even the beginning of the peeling process. Thus, if you hope to end up with a high-quality wall, it is still better to apply a primer and not skimp on it.
• Make sure that the temperature of the base is approximately +5 degrees and that it is sufficiently dry.

Installation of selected beacons

Before starting the main process of plastering all walls, using the previously obtained solution, it is very important to install special profiles.

We attach the beacons to the plane

• It is the corner profile that should be attached to each outer corner, and not any other.
• It is quite easy to install a lighthouse on your own. For this, you do not even need the advice of specialists, because you only need to use a gypsum solution and no additional equipment or fasteners, in principle, are needed.

• The wall is divided into sections of equal area with a width of 1 m by several stripes, drawn vertically;
• The profile of the lighthouse is adjusted depending on the height of the room and the plaster solution prepared an hour earlier is applied directly to the ceiling in a couple of places at once.

• So that between the selected places of future anchoring there must be a distance of at least half a meter. In this case, the first beacon must be placed from the selected corner at a distance of ten centimeters, and then press the profile itself opposite at the same distance.
• It is best to carry out the process of fixing the profile as tightly as possible to the wall, to the edge from the very center. After determining the verticality of each of the installed rails specifically, into all the recesses, and into the mixture itself, it is imperative to drive one nail at a time.
• For all the nails that will be installed at the same level with the beacons themselves, it is necessary to pull the cords. This should be done parallel in each of the planes.
• Install additional intermediate beacons.
• All beacons that were previously installed according to the rules should be checked using any plumb bob for verticality.
• To install the corner profile, it is necessary to apply the mixture directly through its inside. It is important to press the profiles firmly against the base. It is necessary to start to the edge from the center. In this case, it is important to remember about checking the corner profile with a special level.

Aligning the walls under the tiles in the bathroom, the video will show individual moments of work.

Renovation in the bathroom to level the walls with plaster

But all the work goes like this:

Application of the base coat

After thirty minutes, the prepared plaster solution must be applied to the wall no more than 2 centimeters thick. It is best to use a spatula to scatter or spread the mortar over the surface. Keep in mind that it is much easier to spread, and usually only experienced specialists start the first option.

We monitor the density of the composition

In order to spread the solution better, it is advisable to choose as thick as possible. Plaster is taken on the tool, it is brought to the surface at an angle and, using one of the hands, is pressed as tightly as possible against the wall for leveling.

Using the rule, it is imperative to smooth out the previously applied plaster with light movements from bottom to top.

Note: If you really want to get a sufficiently thick layer, then on top of the first one, after it has hardened, apply another layer. It is important to make notches in this case. First of all, this is necessary so that the new layer has something to cling to.

• Quickly enough, the plaster solution will begin to set, and then the surface must immediately be leveled with a wide metal spatula to fill the grooves and cut the excess that appears;
• During the alignment process, it is important to pay special attention to the last laid layer;
• After leveling the walls, all beacons must be removed. This is easy to do with trowels;
• The space that forms will need to be filled with a mixture of plaster with a spatula;
• As soon as the surface is completely dry, you can proceed to its primer, and then proceed with gluing tiles or other finishing material.

Solutions for leveling the walls in the bathroom must be made from quality components. If this is the case in winter, then you should not take it on open trays, the composition freezes and loses its properties.

Its price is not high and it is better to purchase it in a warm warehouse. If the walls are aligned in the bathroom under the tiles, then the deviations should not be more than one cm in plane level. Watch this. Otherwise, at high humidity, the tile will simply turn out.

Graduated from the Faculty of Architecture of the Penza State Institute of Architecture and Construction. For the past ten years, he has been a leading specialist in a large construction company in Penza, engaged in the construction of multi-storey residential buildings. The total work experience in the specialty is 18 years. Consults on design issues, the choice of materials for interior and exterior decoration, finishing technology.

How to align the walls in the bathroom with tiles

Any renovation must meet the requirements of durability and be aesthetically pleasing. Wall treatment in the bathroom is the key to a good renovation. It does not matter what material is chosen, but the surfaces must be carefully leveled before installation. Most apartments cannot boast of such walls, and even in new buildings they can be crooked or cracked.

Preparatory work

Any tile, based on the rules, is placed on the prepared surface, because it can crack or fall off. Due to its advantages and characteristics, this material is today considered the most popular for decorating walls in the bathroom.

If the style and design of the tiles is well developed, several colors are arranged and patterns or geometric elements are added, the renovation will look quite impressive. However, before installing it, it is imperative to level the walls under the tiles in the bathroom. Unfortunately, there are no houses where absolutely all floors will be perfectly even, which is why the owners have to carry out their alignment on their own.

How is the alignment carried out?

If the repair in the bathroom is done without the involvement of specialists, all the rules and features of this process should be studied in advance so as not to redo the work in the future. In addition, after choosing materials, you need to know their characteristics and installation rules. But before you understand how to align the walls in the bathroom with tiles, you need to learn a lot about the type of building and the nuances in the structure of rooms.

Old brick houses

They were built a long time ago. The houses consist of only one load-bearing partition, and the rest of the structure is made up of floors. In these buildings, they were plastered on a metal mesh. Because of this, in many areas there may be visible discrepancies in height, even by 10 centimeters. During the initial repair, the preparation of the wall for the tiles in the bathroom includes the following techniques:

1. Identify areas where old plaster is weak. It must be removed, the wall cleaned and re-treated with such a solution.

2.With all the removal of the previous coating, the surface must be treated with coating insulation before finishing work begins. This technique is necessary to protect the brick wall from collapse due to exposure to moisture.

If it is not difficult to remove part of the old plaster from a brick partition, then it is impossible for a wooden one. It is easier to demolish the entire wall and erect a plasterboard partition in its place.

Features of panel houses

When such a house is being erected, solid blocks are lowered onto strong reinforced concrete floors by a crane. They resemble a cube, and are also made of reinforced concrete. This design provides completely flat walls, without bulges and depressions. The only reason for unevenness may be the initially curved installation of such a cube.

How to align the walls in the bathroom under the tiles in such a structure? It will be too difficult to break such a wall and build a new and even one, because the structure itself is very strong. Dismantling is extremely rare. The best solution would be to level the surface of the wall, plaster it at certain marks and level, or use drywall.

Plasterboard for leveling

You need to use this technique only when the size of the room allows it to be reduced, because the thickness of the walls will increase by a certain number of centimeters. It is very easy, inexpensive, and simply necessary for a beautiful renovation to decorate the ceiling with plasterboard.

Aligning the walls in the bathroom with plasterboard under the tiles requires adherence to the rules of hydro and thermal insulation. This means that moisture-resistant drywall sheets should be purchased for cladding. On the market, they are sold in green with a dense, rough surface. The presence of antimicrobial components in them helps prevent the occurrence of black mold in the bathroom and mildew.

In addition, gypsum plasterboard is a hydrophobic material that can allow air to pass through. Thanks to their durable texture, they are guaranteed to withstand the heavy weight of the ceramic tiles installed. If the vertical wall is not too curved, you can trim it with plaster and fix the drywall sheets with special glue. Otherwise, they are attached to the installed frame. Insulation can be placed in the gap between it and the wall, or wiring, pipes and other structural elements can be laid.

Other alignment methods

The question often arises, how to align the walls in the bathroom with tiles other than drywall? With concrete walls in the house, PVC panels can be laid instead. They also do not cause difficulties in installation, are placed on the frame and are slightly cheaper than drywall.

However, its significant disadvantage is that PVC can accumulate water and emit a strong chemical odor. It also has poor fire safety performance.

The nuances of the structures of monolithic houses

The peculiarity of such houses is that the walls in them are made of different materials. In the bathroom, one of the partitions will be concrete, and the rest will be foam concrete. Sometimes tongue-and-groove blocks are used instead. In this case, the preparation of walls in the bathroom for tiles requires plastering work.

Leveling walls with plaster

This process is quite lengthy and requires special tools.

To carry out measurements, you need:

Roulette .

Plumb line... which you can do yourself. It is enough to tie a heavy weight onto a long thread.

Pencil .

To mark the beacons and set the levels you need:

Alabaster(can be replaced with plaster).

Several perfectly flat racks or beams with different lengths.

For plastering directly you will need:

Dry plaster package... which can be used in damp rooms.

Pelvis... a saucepan or other container for mixing.

The rule and grater.

The whole process can be divided into the following stages:

Installation of wiring and communications in special grooves, pre-cut into the walls.

Preparing the walls, cleaning them from dirt and dust, eliminating too noticeable irregularities.

Everyone can plaster, because many people know how to prepare the walls for tiles in the bathroom using this method. Sometimes this process requires additional work:

• cutting out seams on brick walls 1 cm deep with a chisel;
• stuffing shingles with wooden walls in the room, it looks like a diagonal grid;
• making grooves or small notches on concrete walls.

After carrying out any of these manipulations, the wall should be treated with a primer and allowed to dry well. This will provide the plaster layer with a long service life and reliability.

It is advisable to carry out a primer in the bathroom using a composition of the "Betonokontakt" type. If the structure of the walls is block, then the layer of primer must be applied 3 times.

Beacon installation procedure

When there are several large differences in level on the wall, you cannot do without the use of beacons.

They are installed in this way:

Divide the wall into several sections.

Determine the highest point in all designated areas. A strip is attached to it, the thickness of which corresponds to the level of the plaster layer.

Install such slats on each section of the wall. All these beacons should be located in the same plane anyway. The slats are attached to a special mixture using a level.

The first beacon should be placed at a distance of 10 cm from the corner. It will be he who will be mounted first. The distance between corners and other beacons should be about 1.5 meters. When the mixture under the corner beacons has hardened, you need to stretch the threads between them, thanks to which the intermediate slats will be installed in the future.

Fastening beacons with mortar

When the lighthouses are firmly attached to the walls, the threads can be cut off and the plaster can be laid.

Preparation of the solution

Compliance with the rules and instructions from the manufacturer written on the plaster packaging is very important. This will ensure not only the receipt of the correct solution, but also the full leveling of the wall in general. Pouring water into the solution should be very measured. If there is a lot of it, the plaster can dry out when it shrinks on the walls. It is not necessary to cook the entire package at once, since the solution must be used in a maximum of 25 minutes. After that, it is better to prepare a new solution. The mixed plaster is transferred to the wall using a trowel.

The still uncured solution is distributed along the wall and lighthouses using a rule, slowly passing it along the surface. The density of the plaster layer is up to 2 cm. To increase the thickness, the mixture is laid in several layers. Each must dry well before applying the next. It is necessary to level the solution with a rule only after the last layer begins to dry.

Craftsmen and plasterers usually leave beacons in the walls, but the owners prefer to take them out so that they can be used again later. This must be done before the plaster is completely frozen. You will need a trowel to remove the lighthouse. The voids that remain after this are filled with a plaster solution.

The dried surface must be primed.

This leveling method will provide an excellent surface suitable for installing tiles. The main thing is that it is extremely easy and accessible to carry out, which means that you do not need to use the expensive services of specialists.

Each owner must determine the best way to level the walls before installing ceramic tiles. Any method will be effective, however, the choice is associated with the design features of the houses and, of course, with the financial situation of the owners.

The process of preparing walls for laying tiles

Leveling the wall with plasterboard for tiling

The process of leveling the walls in a panel house

Installing beacons to level the walls

Fastening beacons with mortar

Preparation and application of cement mortar

Plastering the wall

The process of plastering walls during renovation

The final stage of leveling the wall with plaster

Aligning the wall with the rule when plastering

Installation of PVC wall panels

Bathroom wall decoration with ceramic tiles

Surface preparation before tiling

Aligning the walls under the tiles in the bathroom on the lighthouses

Wall cladding in the bathroom with tiles

Aligning the walls under the tiles with your own hands

During finishing work, for good adhesion of the material to the base, it is necessary to carefully prepare the surface. Aligning the walls with tiles is an extremely necessary stage of work, since on an uneven surface the tiles will not hold firmly enough. If you lay out the finishing material on the walls without their preliminary preparation, with a high degree of probability in the future you will need to shift the tiles along the entire wall or in some of its sections. In addition, the unevenness of the wall violates the aesthetics of its appearance, each unevenness on the tile is clearly visible and noticeable.

Initially, it is necessary to assess the unevenness of the surfaces to be repaired. To do this, use a long building level, at least 2 m in size, or a plumb line. A nail is driven into one of the corners of the room, leaving an area equal to 2-3 mm on the surface. It acts as the first beacon. Next, take any load, tie a thread to it, wind the other end of the thread around the nail so that it does not reach the floor for several centimeters. It is optimal to choose a nut of medium size as a load; it is best to take a nylon thread, since it is less susceptible to deformation. When the suspended load stops oscillatory movements, the thread is pulled out in a straight line. Further, at the bottom point of the load overhang, another nail is driven in, its head is located on the same line with the thread.

The whole procedure is repeated on the other side of the wall. The result is a construction of four nails on the surface, which forms two straight lines. Now another thread is attached diagonally - from the top point to the bottom on the other side. When pulling, make sure that the thread does not touch the wall. The taut threads make it easy to identify every unevenness in the wall. This method of assessment is budgetary and does not require special tools.

With deviations in the surface of up to 10-15 mm, the walls are leveled with mixtures of plaster or cement. More pronounced irregularities are corrected with sheets of drywall. This method is also called dry plaster. All three methods are suitable for leveling surfaces to be tiled.

The choice of a mixture for leveling

When choosing mixtures for leveling walls under tiles with your own hands, you should focus on how thick the layer will be applied to the walls. It is also necessary to consider the type of bonding material. In living quarters, it is rational to use gypsum-based mixtures; in these rooms, not only the quality of the finish is important, but also the microclimate that it creates. Gypsum mix meets all these factors. For rooms with high humidity - kitchen, bathroom, toilet, a cement-based mixture is optimal. These coatings retain moisture and prevent it from penetrating into the depth of the concrete base.

For self-preparation of the solution, you do not need to have specific skills and abilities. The cement slurry is prepared from 1 part of M400 cement to 6 parts of sand. The cooking process looks like this - sand is poured into the container, and on top it is crushed with a layer of cement. All components are mixed well, and then they begin to gradually add water to the container. The whole mixture is mixed until the consistency of liquid sour cream.

In some cases, craftsmen work with a mixture in the proportion of 1 part cement to 2-3 parts of sand. Such a solution is more plastic, it is easier and faster to work with it, especially if it is necessary to decorate a vertical surface from which the solution tends to drain and fall off. The finished mixture is diluted, following the instructions, it is necessary to use the diluted solution within 1-2 hours, therefore, a large portion of the working material should not be made immediately. However, for leveling the walls under the tiles, the price is slightly reduced if you prepare the mixture for work on your own, and not purchase a ready-made one.

Leveling the walls under the tiles with plaster

It is optimal to use the method of treating walls with plaster on brick or block bases. This material is also laid on the foundations of reinforced concrete, but to complete these works, you will need to install a special frame made of metal mesh. For the correct execution of work, it is necessary to install a metal beacon profile. There are two modifications of this material - PM 21x6 and PM 26x10. The numbers in the marking indicate the width of the profile base and the height of the beacon, that is, the thickness of the layer that will lie on the surface. The length of the beacons in the standard version is three meters; to shorten the beacon, metal scissors are used. Lighthouses are mounted on mortar molding in a vertical position. Leveling works are carried out according to the following algorithm:

First, they equip a straight line along which the beacons will be installed. To do this, use a thread that is pulled according to the method described above. 5 mortar beacons are applied to each line. A lighthouse is installed on the moldings; when installed, it is drowned in a solution through the mounting holes. Next, the installed beacon is leveled using a building level. Threads are pulled between the finished marks, forming a plane over the entire area of ​​the treated surface.

Next, intermediate beacons are mounted, which are placed along the threads stretched between the ready-made marks. A distance is left between the marks, which is sufficient for the length of the tool with which the leveling work is carried out. For a rule with a length of 1.5 m, the optimal spacing between beacons is 1.2-1.3 m.

Surface priming by craftsmen is considered one of the mandatory stages of work. Liquid primers increase the adhesion of the material to the surface. There are a large number of primers. It depends on the correct choice of a primer what the final cost for leveling the walls under the tiles will be, as well as the quality of the work performed. For each type of coating, a specific grade of material is used.

Primers are applied with a brush, roller or spray gun. If a primer is applied to a coating that has a high absorption rate, then several layers of liquid are applied, one after the other, having previously allowed the previous layer to be absorbed. For brick walls, masters recommend not spending money on buying a primer, but simply wet the wall with water. This measure ensures sufficient strength of the plaster after it has dried.

• The plastering process itself.

The entire work is conventionally divided into three parts, each representing the application of one layer of plaster. The first layer is applied directly to the material and is called spraying. This layer is applied thinly and done with a liquid solution. Its thickness is no more than 2 mm.

The second layer is soil. The solution for it is kneaded more tightly, the thickness is made from 5 to 6 mm. The third layer is the finish coat. Thinner than first coat. The material is distributed over the surface until it is completely leveled. Each previous layer is allowed to dry well before proceeding with the next. A layer of primer mixture is made between all layers, which is also allowed to dry well. He talks in more detail about how to align the walls under the tiles, the video at the end of the section.

Leveling the walls under the tiles with putty

The putty is used for finishing work; it can be used for any type of surface. The plastering process is simpler than plastering, therefore it is most often done by hand. Plaster is suitable for leveling walls for laying tiles, and for painting, and for pasting walls with wallpaper. It is best used on concrete and wood surfaces. The algorithm for leveling the walls with putty looks like this:

• To begin with, they carry out research work on the subject of irregularities on the surface. These are various grooves, cracks or chips. The deepest imperfections are covered with plaster or blown out with foam. If possible, level it as much as possible, then treat the surface with a primer, which is allowed to dry well.

• Next, the first putty layer is applied. Unlike plaster in this work, the first layer is thicker and is 2-3 mm, and in some cases even 5 mm. If it is necessary to apply a thick putty layer, then this is done in several stages, otherwise the putty will fall off the wall under the pressure of its own weight.
• The first layer is allowed to dry well, then it is primed and dried again. The second coat is applied immediately after the primer has dried. It is made thinner than the previous one and is about 1 mm thick. This is the last layer to level the surface.
• If the wall is leveled for laying tiles, then the work after applying the second layer is considered complete, since the tile itself is capable of hiding minor wall defects. If the wall was leveled for painting or wallpapering, then the surface is rubbed with fine sandpaper to remove all fine wrinkles of the putty.

Plasterboard wall alignment

Aligning the walls under the tiles with plasterboard or plywood is used if there are pronounced flaws in the walls, the depth or height of which is more than 5 cm. Experts try to do without this measure and level the walls with plaster, since the installation of drywall has one significant drawback. During installation, this material often requires the installation of a frame, in addition, the drywall sheet itself is quite thick. As a result, after all the work has been completed, the area of ​​the room is significantly reduced. This decrease is especially noticeable in rooms with a small area.

To minimize the thickness of the drywall layer, it is not mounted on a metal profile, but on a special mounting glue. One of the most common brands for performing these works is the Perlfix glue from Knauf. The base for fixing drywall with glue is made as strong as possible, without crumbling areas. If there are any, they are upholstered and covered with plaster.

The surface should not be subject to condensation and freezing, spatial deformation and condensation accumulation. Before installing the sheets on the wall, it is thoroughly degreased and cleaned of residues of various substances that reduce the ability of the glue to adhere to the surface. After cleaning and preparing the wall for work, proceed as follows:

• The wall is carefully primed. For surfaces with a high moisture absorption rate, use a soil with deep penetration. For dense surfaces with a small number of pores, use the "Betonaktiv" primer. For surfaces with an average to normal moisture absorption, use versatile materials.
• After applying the primer or before performing these works, sections of the required size are cut out of the drywall. When measuring, take into account the factor that a gap is left between the sheet and the floor for the glue to dry, the width of this gap is 10 mm. A gap is also left from the ceiling to the sheet, but in a smaller size - 5 mm. To provide these gaps, spacers of any available material are used.
• Before installing the sheets, it is imperative to carry out work related to communications, since after gluing the drywall it will no longer be possible to do this. All boxes, sockets and switches must protrude at least 20 mm above the base.

• Glue is applied to the cut sheets. This is done with any convenient solid tool, for example, a spatula. The glue is applied in piles, the distance between them is 30-40 cm, the distance from the pile to the edge of the sheet is not less than 5 cm.
• The sheets are pressed against the wall and glued. By tapping on the material, the glue hardens and the sheet is tightly laid. Once again, the stacked gypsum board is carefully treated with a high penetration primer. After the primer has dried, the surface is ready for further work.

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Ceramic tiles are unmatched in terms of durability and hygiene. If you do not want to use the expensive services of professionals or if you want to entrust the finishing to the masters, but control them, you need to be well versed in what has to be done. Your experience and diligence will be facilitated by the knowledge of how and how to level the walls in the bathroom, how to process the surfaces, how to ensure a high-quality result of expensive repairs.

The range of preparatory work includes measuring the base, preparing for facing, choosing its scheme and developing a laying plan. The number of tiles should be calculated in advance. It is necessary to measure the curvature of the walls and take into account that with the leveling of the surfaces, the number of tiles can be significantly reduced. Minimizing your cutting work, saving time and money is easy with the sheer number of tiles installed on each wall. To create beautiful interiors, one should take into account the materials used, the method of preliminary preparation of the walls to be faced, know the laying techniques, methods of filling the joints.

The main quality of the areas where people wash and wash is a high level of hygiene. During the renovation, the prepared areas of the rooms will be tiled. With properly selected building materials, the bathroom will not only be attractive, but also "indifferent" to shampoos and washing powders.

When choosing a ceramic material for rooms, one should take into account its moisture absorption, resistance to wear (for example, to the effects of abrasive cleaning agents - I on the PEI scale - or 3 according to the international ISO system), resistance to aggressive household chemicals (designation "AA" - the highest stability, "D" - the lowest). The glaze contributes to the water resistance and abrasion resistance.

For wall cladding, tiles of non-standard increased size are often used. Working with them is not easy. They are heavy and require carefully prepared surfaces. After all, even a small unevenness will lead to bulging, which is striking with large-format blocks. Small bathroom tiles are called mosaics. It is easy for her not only to tile the walls, but also to lay out the bowls of the pools or the bodies of the bathtubs. Glass mosaics help to create interesting interiors. The bathroom spaces are emphasized with friezes.

Preparatory work and cleaning

Preparing the walls in the bathroom begins with cleaning old coatings (tiles, paint, varnish, wood, wallpaper). The hillocks are cut off, and the pits and depressions are covered with a solution. The walls are measured and examined for the presence of irregularities. They are leveled if necessary. An obligatory preparatory stage is stitching.

What are we cleaning off? Dust, dirt, soot, grease, traces of old mastic. All this can impair the adhesive properties of the new glue and the reliability of the fixing of the tiles. Detergents can be ineffective in fighting greasy stains. In this case, we turn to a 3% solution of hydrochloric acid or a 5% solution of soda ash... Working with them requires caution. If solutions get on the skin or mucous membranes, be sure to rinse with water.

What tools do we use?

• abrasive;
• grinding;
• as well as scrapers, fly brushes or stiff bristled brushes.

Excessively rough places in order to level the walls in the bathroom are treated with putty.

What to do with old tiles

There are 2 ways to get rid of the old one:

• removal of the used layer (starting from the top row, after taking care of the protection of the plumbing);
• laying a new layer on top of the existing one.

The second method is a "dust-free" repair option. In addition, it is used for extra-urgent alterations. If the former tile was laid evenly and correctly, then this layer can be used as a base. Here it is important to choose the right special adhesive for ceramic surfaces and carefully examine the evenness of the ceramic.

Perfect evenness is a rarity. Even 2-3 years of operation do not pass without leaving a trace and reveal small and large defects, for example, cracks. In case of deviations along the axes, you will have to get rid of the tile by chipping, which in itself is laborious and almost always damages the sub-tile base. The latter will have to be repaired and leveled with a cement mortar.

What tools do you need?

• perforator, which significantly speeds up the process;
• hammer;
• chisel (we pry the edge of each of the tiles and separate one from the wall).

Under the tiles, layers of cement, thickly rubbed paint, and crumbling plaster can be found. With additional stress, these unreliable layers will fall off. Such risk zones are determined by preliminary tapping. If "the walls are coiling", i.e. the sound is dull, we take the puncher in our hands and continue. The resulting potholes are closed.

Exactly on a layer of paint

Can I not remove the paint? Yes, but the only paint that gives good adhesion to tiles is water-based paint. But even on top of it, you should pull the mesh, and then use a special adhesive mixture.

All other old paintwork is removed by:

• cleaning solutions (for example, AFT-1). They are applied with a brush and remove the paint after bubbling;
• building hair dryers, after warming up, the paint is removed with a spatula or scraper;

• perforators with a special paddle attachment;
• cutting machine (with an inserted card brush);
• sometimes a hatchet, spatula or scraper, sandpaper.

Cutting down hillocks

Usually, the alignment of the walls in the bathroom begins with cutting down the bumps. For soft surfaces (plaster, plaster blocks) use a spatula or hammer with a chisel. For others - a hammer drill with a nozzle or a sander. In order not to break, the disc must be suitable for the type of surface. Reinforced concrete, on the other hand, creates the problem of smooth walls. There is nothing to cling to! Notches with a hammer drill or chisel are required. Care should be taken when working in corners of rooms, under ceilings or near electrical outlets.

Plaster solutions for leveling walls are used only for minor roughness. Mixtures based on gypsum or cement are recommended. If the difference is more than 6 cm, plasterboard sheets with a special water-repellent impregnation are used. The material is easily cut, joined, and sealed with putty. No primer or cutting of the mounds is needed. Ideal false walls allow you to leave layers between partitions and drywall. This contributes to both sound and thermal insulation.

Additional hanging

The purpose of hanging is to identify the most protruding part of the wall. It is determined by the minimum distance between the cord and the wall. This means that when leveling, there is a place for the thinnest plaster layer.

What do you need?

• long ruler;
• level;
• a cord or a special weight (plumb line with a cord and a fixed weight);
• nails around which stamps of plaster or mortar will be arranged.

Stitching Algorithm

• stepping back from the ceiling and corner of 30-40 cm, drive in the 1st nail;
• the distance from the cap to the base of the wall is equal to the size of the plaster layer;
• lower the weight from the nail, not reaching the floor;
• at a height of 30 cm from the floor, we drive in a nail number 2;
• his hat should touch the cord;
• vertically between 1 and 2 with a nail we drive in the third so that the cap also touches the cord;
• in the 2nd corner of the same wall, the procedure is repeated;
• hammer in the 4th, 5th and 6th nails;
• to check the base of the wall, the 1st and 6th, 2nd and 4th nails are pulled diagonally with a cord;
• if the cord touched the base, then the wall there is uneven;
• if the bulges are not cut down, the nails are removed from one row and driven in on a new one so that the thickness of the plaster on the bulges is 20 cm - 25 cm;
• on gypsum, retreating from the wall by 100 mm - 120 mm, arrange intermediate beacons (so that later they have a layer of glue of a fixed thickness);
• horizontally nails 7 and 8 between 1 and 4;
• nails 9 and 10 between 3 and 5;
• 11 and 12 between 2 and 6;
• the distance from nail to nail is less than 2 m, and in case of severe irregularities it is less;
• the procedure is completed by a similar test for flatness, bump detection, and fitting that is similar to the first.

To make stamps, take 2 layers of mortar with a diameter of about 50 mm and a thickness of 5 mm above the head of the nail. After the mortar has set, the top of the mark is cut to the base of the cap, and the plane of the mark remains strictly parallel to the wall. After cutting off the sides of the marks, 30-40 mm squares remain, on which the rule is attached (with mortar, nails) and plastering work begins. Thus, upon completion of the hanging of the walls, the installation of lighthouse tiles and marks from the solution, the walls are ready for facing.

Video instruction

Alignment of walls and partitions in the bathroom under the tiles is carried out in several ways, depending on the qualifications of the home craftsman, the type of wiring of communications, wall materials and the geometry of the enclosing structures.

Plaster solutions minimize the working space, but are used with slightly obstructed corners and flatness defects. False panels and boxes made of gypsum plasterboard / gypsum plasterboard and other sheet materials allow you to hide pipes, valves and metering devices, but reduce the space of the bathrooms.

Tile is the best option for wall covering in rooms with high humidity. The technology for pasting walls with tiles is as follows:

• tile glue is applied to a plot of 1 - 2 m²;
• the mixture is leveled with a notched trowel;
• the tiles are installed in order, the seams are aligned with crosses or SVP systems.

Even minor irregularities with ceramic tiles are very inconvenient to level, especially on the wall, for a number of reasons:

• the plaster is aligned with the beacons, and the tile adhesive is applied with a notched trowel to the eye;
• starting mixtures for leveling the verticality of the walls are much cheaper than tile glue;
• with an increase in the thickness of the layer, the tile "floats" and slides, collapses and flies off under its own weight.

The main requirements for the substrate for pasting with ceramic tiles are:

• smooth walls without cracks, bumps and holes;
• verticality of the walls;
• the presence of water-repellent properties;
• high adhesion of wall material or leveling mixture with tile adhesive;
• the strength of the base must be higher than that of tile adhesive;
• the corners should ideally be 90 °.

SP 15.13330 allows the use of pressed ceramic bricks, hollow blocks, hollow ceramics, aerated concrete, gypsum boards, sand-lime bricks for the manufacture of walls and partitions of combined / separate bathrooms only under the condition of tiling or full waterproofing.

Quote from clause 9.1.1 of SP 15.13330: "... Silicate bricks, partition blocks and slabs in bathrooms, showers, bathrooms are used subject to vertical waterproofing or tiling of the inner surface." And this means, provided that you are covering the walls with tiles, waterproofing of the walls is NOT NEEDED.

Possibility of overlap of corners, lack of flatness, wavy line of joining of walls with floor and ceiling, opening of cracks, influx of mortar in the seams of masonry, absence of right angles.

The heaped corner must be corrected before finishing work.

In order to properly level the surfaces of vertical bathroom structures, it is necessary to take into account the composition of the plaster mixture. Although, when facing with tiles, waterproofing is not required, nevertheless it is better to use materials with water-repellent properties: cement-based plaster, cement-bonded concrete, moisture-resistant drywall, or priming gypsum plaster very well.

In showers, you can use cement-based waterproofing mixtures, they are applied in a thin layer over the plaster. This is probably the best choice, as these mixes have a similar adhesion to tile adhesive.

Leveling materials for tiles

A smooth partition / wall surface can be obtained in two ways:

• apply a layer of plaster or any other air-hardening mixture on the beacons;
• glue or fix sheet material with a flat surface on the frame.

The first option allows you to level the walls in the bathroom for gluing with tiles without losing the working area of ​​the room. However, for hidden distribution of cold water / hot water supply, sewerage and installation of water meters, filtering equipment and valves, this method is not very suitable. Plaster belongs to the "wet" technologies, finishing with tiles is possible after the final drying of the leveling layer.

Boxes and false panels are assembled from moisture-resistant gypsum board and gypsum plasterboard sheets on a frame made of galvanized profiles. Less commonly used CSP and LSU, fiberboard plates. For concrete and brick, cement-sand, lime and gypsum mixtures are usually used.

Most often, a combined method is used: on those walls where there are sewer pipes, risers, taps, a frame is made of gypsum plasterboard, where there is nothing to hide - plaster. Thin pipes (leads to the sink, toilet bowl, heated towel rail) are better to be embedded in the wall and plaster, it is much cheaper and saves a lot of space. There are special thin sewer pipes, 32 mm in diameter, for supplying in the wall, for example, to a washstand or washing machine.

Aligning the walls of the DSP

Cement particle board is not the best solution for leveling enclosing structures for decorating with tiles for a number of reasons:

• a DSP sheet costs about three times more than a moisture-resistant drywall of the same thickness;
• the material is fragile, poorly processed, difficult to cut;
• the slabs are heavy, the work is done together.

After hardening, cement-based plaster mixes form a hard, durable coating that normally holds the heavy ceramic veneer. The main nuance before plastering the surface is the revision of the wall material:

• cracks are sealed with special compounds;
• loose and crumbling bricks and areas of concrete are removed and repaired.

In the presence of cement, the mixtures are enough for 40 - 50 minutes before the start of setting, which is very convenient for a home craftsman with a low qualification of plastering work. Strongly wet areas are treated with plaster mixtures with the addition of water repellents, which, after drying on the walls, receive water-repellent properties by default.

Plasterboard leveling

GKL sheet can be glued to the wall or fixed with screws on a frame made of wooden beams, galvanized profiles. The first option has several disadvantages:

• it is impossible to fix the geometry of heavily heaped corners;
• when leveling large differences, bending of the gypsum board sheet is possible;
• in places where pipes are output, drywall has to be mounted in small pieces.

Therefore, false panels are most often used, which are full-fledged gypsum plasterboard systems:

• guide profiles on the floor and ceiling;
• rack profiles inserted into them with a pitch of 0.6 m;
• stiffeners from horizontal lintels;
• sheets of waterproof gypsum plasterboard with an interval of horizontal seams;
• reinforcement of all joints with serpyanka tape.

Aligning the walls with plasterboard allows you to hide communications.

Drywall is fastened with self-tapping screws to vertical posts and horizontal lintels. The heads of the hardware are slightly recessed, later they are covered with starting putty. At the last stage, the false panels are waterproofed with a coating or painting compound. For fixing shelves, curtains and hanging furniture, additional profiles are laid in the frame. Then a diagram of the arrangement of the racks and jumpers is drawn up.

Plaster

Most manufacturers produce gypsum plasters for wet rooms. Unis has Teplon, Knauf Rotband, respectively. The application technology does not differ from the standard plastering with cement-sand compositions:

• installation of beacons;
• throwing over the solution with a bucket;
• alignment with the rule of beacons;
• grouting a slightly dried layer.

You can also use cement-based plasters, but there is no need for this, and working with them is much more difficult.

By analogy with gypsum plasterboard, waterproofing is necessary, even for compositions with water-repellent properties.

There are no other methods, except for plastering and making false panels from sheet material, for leveling the walls under the tiles.

Algorithm for aligning walls for tiles

The cheapest way is for the owner to align the walls in the bathroom with tiles in a new building without finishing. During major and current repairs of secondary real estate, time / money is spent on removing the existing cladding. The operations of the preliminary preparation of the walls are as follows:

• dismantling tiles and old plaster;
• removal of loose, flaking, loose bricks;
• a primer before leveling with plaster.

The alignment method depends on the following objective factors:

• the use of cement or gypsum plaster - only with open wiring of communications or recessed into the walls, with small defects in flatness and slightly heaped corners;
• the use of gypsum plasterboard systems - for hidden wiring of engineering systems, with serious defects in the geometry of the walls and their junctions.

Plastering work is facilitated by special beacons made of galvanized steel, according to which the solution is leveled with a rule. The construction of gypsum plasterboard systems allows you to increase the productivity and manufacturability of work. However, an electric and hand tool will be required:

• puncher and screwdriver;
• lace, plumb line, level;
• scissors for metal;
• spatulas and knives for gypsum board.

The structure of the profiles should be vertically aligned at a single level without distortions. In combined bathrooms, false panels are the only way to install a wall-hung toilet and install this plumbing fixture.

GKL sheets are mounted vertically on the power frame, since this size corresponds to the height of the ceilings of standard apartments. For frameless installation of drywall, special fast-setting glue is used.

The subtleties of working with different surfaces

According to the current standards of the joint venture, partitions and walls in apartments are made of brick or concrete. In private cottages, wood can be used as wall material. Therefore, there are nuances of leveling walls made of dissimilar construction materials:

• brick - cement-sand or lime plaster;
• concrete - dry plaster mixes based on gypsum, cement, polymers;
• gypsum boards, foam blocks - dry plaster mixes based on gypsum;
• wood - plastering on shingles, metal mesh with gypsum or cement mixtures.

Suspensions of gypsum plasterboard systems are attached to wood with self-tapping screws, in concrete and brick with dowel-nails. The rest of the differences when cocking false panels are not observed.

Thus, depending on the type of wiring of utilities, defects in geometry and structural material of the walls, the developer can choose to level the surfaces under the tiles with sheet material or plastering.

Advice! If you are looking for a bathroom remodeler, there is a very convenient recruiting service from. Just fill in the details of the order, the masters will respond by themselves and you will be able to choose with whom to cooperate. Each specialist in the system has a rating, reviews and examples of work, which will help with the choice. It looks like a mini tender. Submitting an application is FREE and non-binding. Works in almost all cities of Russia.

If you are a master, then go to, register in the system and you will be able to take orders.

Tiling is often used when decorating surfaces inside the bathroom. It is considered the best option due to the properties of the tile, a large selection of various colors and the reliability of the coating.

Requirements for wall surfaces for tiles

It is interesting that the requirements for the surface of the walls for tiles are not strict. There is no need to achieve even coverage under the ruler. 0.5-1 cm irregularities are eliminated later, at the time of installation. Therefore, leveling the wall will be cheaper and faster. The exception is small mosaic tiles. You will have to carefully prepare the wall, removing the grooves and bumps. Therefore, the mosaic is laid by professionals.

Leveling materials for tiles

What methods and materials the master will need for alignment:

1. Plaster is the classic version, the dry mixture is diluted, following the instructions. Cement base, durable, durable, convenient to use. Able to "freeze" a brick, preventing the destruction process. There are special moisture resistant varieties. Inexpensive.
2. Gypsum mixture is an unsuccessful option, the increased hygroscopicity of the material interferes. Manufacturers are improving its components, but builders are trying not to take drywall. Plus - quickly grasps, which reduces the duration of work. Minus - the complexity of use, available to professionals, in addition, hygroscopic.
3. Plasterboard, OSB - among the available alignment methods and materials, the masters of construction companies choose them. The alignment procedure is carried out quickly, the total cost of the work will be higher, which increases the company's profit accordingly. Moisture-resistant OSB are suitable, as well as gypsum plasterboards.

Algorithm for aligning walls for tiles

To select a material suitable for the planned work, you should inspect the surfaces of the walls.

What factors are important:

1. Check the verticality of the walls. A plumb line and visual assessment will help. The main indicator, usually tilers are guided by it, choosing a laying technology. The peculiarity of the tiles is vertical laying, otherwise the tiles will have to be cut in the corners of all walls. This is ugly, at the same time it shows unprofessionalism. Fasten the plumb line - drive in a regular nail from above, tying a long thread to it. Hold the tip of the thread and attach a ruler. Measure the area near the ceiling and below, the base of the walls. Actual reading difference +/- centimeter is normal. If more - you need to level. Plaster or waterproof drywall will help.
2. As a long rule, check surfaces step by step. Lean the tool used more tightly, look where the protrusions, small depressions. There are many irregularities, all small - there is a need to level the OSB or separate drywall boards. You can glue the tiles right away without installing metal profiles.
3. There are many irregularities, large - you will have to build a frame or plaster the walls.
4. Smooth walls automatically shorten the preparatory work. Sometimes it is enough just to cover them with putty, chopping off the protruding edges and repairing individual recesses.

When leveling the walls in the bathroom under the tiles, the condition of the surfaces is assessed individually. Small cracks are not a problem, they will then be covered with glue when laying.

The surfaces will have to be prepared more carefully for the mosaic. To process with plaster is reliable, though long, plus it is expensive or with slabs.

Leveling the walls in the bathroom with cement-sand mortars

It is considered a traditional and common method of preparation. A special dry mixture will be required, its amount is calculated depending on the amount of work to be done.

How to align the walls in the bathroom, what tools will be required:

• dry mix, sand concrete;
• plastering blade;
• cutting;
• ladle;
• scoop;
• scoop;
• collapsible falcon;
• dish-shaped falcon;
• lighthouse, details of the lighthouse;
• pin designs;
• kerchief;
• corner;
• construction hammer;
• Bulgarian;
• key;
• protective mask, gloves;
• work clothes.

The tools are ready, it's time to align the walls inside the bathroom under the tiles:

1. Use a hammer / chisel edge to carefully remove the outer crumbling brick fragments. Try to get to wholes further away. Dismantle completely obsolete cover.
2. Cut off the protruding reinforcement with a grinder.
3. How to align the walls in the bathroom - make a batch of mortar. Find out the thickness of the plaster to be applied, then place the beacons, with the first one being 20-30 cm from the nearest corner. The average distance between 2 attached beacons is less than the rule.
4. Installation of beacons. Sketch the finished mass with a straight, vertical tape, following the height of the room. When finished, drown the lighthouse there. Correct its location with a level, achieving the necessary verticality. Repeat the operation on the opposite corner of that wall. Look, the room is larger (longer) than the rule - install additional intermediate beacons. A pair of evenly stretched ropes or a rule will help. Wait for the applied mass to cool down, 2-3 hours.
5. Install stops to adjust the thickness of the applied plaster in the corners, also in the doorway. Nail thin boards, placing them in the corners (attach, glue - as convenient). Their position is leveled out afterwards, beacons. After finishing the bathroom, as the plaster dries, remove the boards.
6. Plastering. How to align the walls in the bathroom with tiles other than plaster? Drywall, OSB boards are suitable. Plaster is considered the most affordable and easy-to-use material. Throw it, acting actively from the bottom up, and the thickness will be 1-2 + cm of installed beacons. Excess solution is easy to remove with the rule, lifting it and moving it left and right, guided by the protruding beacons. You can seal the gap between the bathtub, as well as large recesses.
7. Level the walls with solution 3, periodically wetting it if it freezes.

How to level the surface of the wall efficiently - you need to actively throw in portions of plaster, using a trowel. Do not smear or smear. Just sketch.

Immediately fill up with plaster all large depressions discovered earlier. Moreover, if the formed layer turns out to be uneven, somewhere thicker - not scary. It will not be reflected on the facing with ceramic tiles.

Bathroom tiling video

The procedure can be seen more clearly in the video of the bathroom cladding, the master carries out the work in stages, gives advice.

Leveling out large wall irregularities with slabs

In addition to plaster, various boards are suitable for leveling. The cheapest are separate moisture-resistant plasterboard.

Operating procedure:

1. Wall markings. Plates are fastened through metal profiles, the dimensions of which must correspond to the material and be located strictly along the axes, 60 cm. When trimming, it is important to preserve the fixing area - the edge of a perfect cut. Additionally, simple vertical profiles should be installed, they will support the plates from the inside, preventing them from bending.
2. Fix the main guide profile at the bottom on the floor with dowels. Install more than 2 perforated awnings on the wall, placing them side by side (50-60 cm). Look, the suspensions are only vertical.
3. Installation of profiles - using a level, secure all extreme profiles. After finishing exposing, fasten with a self-tapping screw. Remove long pieces of perforated tape.
4. Tighten the ropes by tying the corners of the end pieces. Install the rest of the vertical profiles on them. If the surfaces to be processed are complex, there are many irregularities - install additional horizontal small jumpers.
5. Fasten the drywall more tightly to the previously installed profiles. Place the boards evenly, leaving a gap for the subsequent fixation of another fox.
6. There is no need to putty the seams if you plan to install tiles. It is enough to clean the surface and start laying.

Install more profiles, they increase the strength of the new coating. Fix the joints with jumpers.

Near the bathtub, a thicker slab is needed (1.5-2 cm), at the same time, reduce the distance between the installed frame racks. This will enhance the overall performance, along with the durability of the structure.

Aligning the walls in the bathroom with plasterboard plates for glue

The technique is justified when there are enough irregularities, but small ones.

Advantages of frameless drywall installation technology:

• quickness - comparing it with the classic installation of plates;
• cheapness - thinner slabs are suitable, without a frame, respectively, the cost decreases;
• increased strength - the glue fills the voids from the inside, which reduces sagging;
• manufacturability - work is available for beginners.

What you need: a drill + victorious drills, several long dowels (30-40 cm are suitable), drywall, glue, a special assembly knife.

Operating procedure:

1. Wall markings - place special reference beacons. Set up some vertical planks using a level. Install beacons on them. Connect the outer ones by pulling the threads. Guided by them, following 40-50 cm, place the dowels so that their caps are in one flat plane. They will serve as a support for the slabs.
2. Prepare the glue, adjust the dimensions of the slabs.
3. Apply glue above the caps of the installed beacons (2-3 cm), using a trowel. Place the application points periodically (15-20 cm).
4. Place the slab while leveling it. Then, as a rule, press more tightly against the protruding hats of the lighthouses. Tap the plate with a rule to prevent it from bending.
5. Fix the whole slabs in stages, then the segments. Remove excess glue.

Glue it carefully, do not lean against the renewed wall afterwards. Remove concave or cracked slabs.

Video leveling the walls in the bathroom with plaster

The video of leveling the walls in the bathroom with plaster will help to study the nuances.

The above techniques will help prepare the walls. The most difficult is the laying of slabs. It will require an assistant, one cannot adjust the position and glue at the same time. High-quality alignment will affect the laying process later.