If you have an old boiler, do not rush to throw it away. Many interesting and useful things can be made from it. Specifically, in this case, we will consider how you can make an excellent grill out of a boiler.

DIY materials and tools:
- old boiler;
- grinder with grinding and cutting discs;
- pliers, screwdrivers, wire cutters and other classic tools of the master;
- corner or other suitable material for creating legs;
- drill with drills;
- welding;
- heat-resistant paint (the author has black);
- a loop with a lock for a blower;
- bolts, nuts, washers and other fasteners;
- a round grill.

In general, a drill may not be needed, the author just decided to make everything collapsible, connecting the structure with bolts and nuts. In principle, all this can be simply welded if all the parts are made of steel.

Grill making process:

Step one. Preparing the boiler
First of all, you need to take a boiler and remove all unnecessary things. As a rule, boilers are trimmed with thermal insulation on top so that they keep the water warm for a long time. This insulation must be thoroughly cleaned off. Perhaps first it will need to be cut off with a grinder or a sharp knife, depending on what the sheathing is made of. Well, then a grinder with a grinding wheel is taken and with the help of it all the insulating material is removed.
It is important to remember that residual insulation will start to smoke when using the grill.

Step two. We cut the boiler
Now the boiler needs to be cut. Here you will need a grinder again. The author decided to choose the part of the tank where the bracket is located, with which the tank is attached to the wall. In the future, this bracket will be needed to assemble a wooden board. In addition, the author also cut out an opening on the blank for installing the lattice.

Step three. Making legs
The legs are made very simply, here you will need a steel corner or elements of metal shelving, which the author used. It was decided to use bolts for fastening. But for simplicity of the procedure, everything can be connected by welding. As for the length, for the convenience of cooking, it was decided to make the legs 75 cm long.

Step four. We fasten the legs
Using bolts and nuts as fastening the legs, the author killed two birds with one stone. Thanks to the screws protruding inward, the grill grate can now be installed.

Each leg is secured with two bolts and nuts, so you will need to drill holes in the tank for them. It is very important here that the upper holes are at the same level, since this is where the grill will be located. It is best to mark a couple of dots from the top and then draw a line around it. The legs should also be at the same distance from each other.

After assembly, it turned out that the grill was not very reliable. To make the legs stiffer, the author added a cross at the bottom.

Step five. Grill blower
For efficient operation of the grill, the author decided to equip it with a blower. To do this, a window must be cut out at the bottom of the container. The formed plate does not need to be thrown away; a door is made from it. The door must be hinged and bolted. It is important to take care of the handle, it should not actively conduct heat, as it will get very hot when using the grill. The author made it from a bolt and a few nuts.

Two steel rods will be needed to secure the bottom grill. Their author simply welds in at the right level, cutting off the excess. If it is not possible to weld the rods, you can use threaded rods and secure with nuts and washers.

Step six. Fastening for a wooden board
The wooden plate is a very convenient addition to the grill, although the grill itself must be well fixed. Plates of cooked food can be placed here, and so on. For a wooden slab, the author drills holes in the boiler bracket, and then inserts threaded rods into them. Subsequently, wooden blocks will be put on these rods and tightened with nuts.

Step seven. Painting
At this stage, the author paints the part made from the boiler. First you need to peel off all the rust and sand the surface well. Heat-resistant paint will be needed here, since the container heats up a lot.

Step eight. Assembly
After painting, the whole structure is assembled again. Using a level, it is advisable to measure the inclination of the grill and adjust the legs.

Also, now the author is attaching the hinge and the blower valve. For such purposes, rivets were used. Bolts and nuts can also be used.

Step nine. Manufacturing and installation of the inner grille
Coals will be loaded onto the inner grate, and air will flow from below, which will lead to good combustion of the coals. For the manufacture of the lattice, the author decided to use a steel plate, in which he simply drilled holes. The found plate already had a couple of rows of square holes. It is important here that the plate is thick, since coals generate a high temperature during combustion.
Then it only remains to put the plate on the rods welded into the lower part.

Step ten. Assembling a wooden board
The wooden board is very easy to assemble. Here you will need wooden beams, which need to be cut to size. Next, two holes are drilled into them, through which threaded rods will pass. The author's holes are drilled in the form of the letter "V".

Well, then this whole sandwich is assembled and tightly tightened with nuts. It is important to stock up on good big washers here, since it takes a lot of effort to tighten. Washers are placed on both sides. It took the author 10 nuts to assemble. Two here act as a support, and two more on the other side press the wood. The rest of the nuts are needed to fix the rods themselves. You need to tighten everything well using wrenches.

As a result, the wooden board can be properly sanded, and for protection it would be good to paint it with protective varnish, paint, and so on.

Finally, it should be mentioned that the grill must be securely fixed, otherwise, if you put something heavy on the wooden plate, the whole grill may turn over. It can be bolted to the floor or to a large, heavy board.

Step 11. Let's start testing
That's all. The grill is assembled and can now be tested. According to the author, the project turned out to be successful and worth the effort.

You can even make a welding machine or a sawmill yourself, but when you need to make a device that will be used in everyday life with your own hands, then ensuring the safe operation of the product comes to the fore.

Homemade water heater

A homemade water heater will be used by all family members who may have only a remote idea of ​​electrical resistance, voltage and current strength. To minimize the likelihood of an accident, you will need to make the device in accordance with all electrical safety rules.

DIY water heater: choose the type of device

Despite the fact that it is much easier to make a storage device at home, you should, first of all, consider the assembly option. Such household appliances will allow you to instantly heat the water, and electricity will be consumed only at the moment the device is turned on. Unlike boilers, installing a flow-through device does not require a lot of space, and it is also not necessary to insulate the device.

To heat water in both versions, a heating element is used, but for the manufacture of a flow-through device, it will be necessary to purchase a more powerful element.

Powerful water heater

Of the additional details, you cannot do without the use of an RCD. This device will automatically disconnect the contacts if an electric leak occurs. You should also stock up on copper wires of large cross-section and tools for work.

Diy flow-through water heater

To make an instantaneous water heater, you should prepare the necessary tools:

1. Welding machine (inverter).
2. Electrodes.
3. Grinder with a rust removal attachment.
4. Hammer.
5. Drill with a set of drills for metal.
6. Kern.

For a flow-through version of a water heater, you will need the following materials:

1. Steel pipe, the length and diameter of which slightly exceed the width and length of the heating element.
2. Heating element electric water with a power of 4 kW.
3. Sheet steel 3 mm thick.
4. Anti-corrosion paint.
5. Bolt and nut M14.

When everything you need is ready, you can start making the device. The first thing to do is to properly clean metal surfaces from rust. To do this, you must use a grinder with a nozzle.

Grinder with rust remover attachment

Then a rectangle is cut from the metal sheet, the minimum side of which should slightly exceed the outer diameter of the metal pipe. On the cut metal sheet, 2 holes are made with a drill, the diameter of which should be 1 mm higher than the thickness of the heating element legs. To position the holes at the required distance from each other, the ends of the contact rods should be dipped into white paint and then lean the ends of the contacts against the plate, trying to make marks equidistant from the side faces of the plate. When the paint dries a little, it is necessary to drill the metal along the white dots.

In the next step, the plate prepared in this way should be welded to the end of the pipe. Before carrying out this operation, the part must be lightly tacked so that the previously made holes are exactly in the middle. After the side plug is welded, the metal protruding beyond the outer diameter of the pipe is cut off with a grinder or a gas cutter.

Further, having marked with a core at a distance of 20 mm 2 points, which must be on the same line, make holes with a diameter of 19 mm with a drill. These holes are necessary for welding the threaded pipe sections for connecting the water supply and removing the heated liquid.

Considering the need for grounding, it is imperative to weld an extended M14 nut to the pipe, to which the conductor will be connected with a bolt.

In the next step, the electrical heating element should be placed inside the pipe. The legs of the device should be carefully installed in the previously made holes, and then tighten the fastening nuts with sufficient force. When installing the heating element, be sure to put rubber washers on the threaded part of the legs.

Sealing washers for heating elements

Washers should be installed on the inside and outside of the device, and for greater reliability, high-temperature sealant should be applied to the surface of the gaskets.

Then the opposite end of the metal pipe should be welded tightly. For this purpose, you should also cut a square piece of sheet steel. The side of the square must be at least 50 mm larger than the outer diameter of the pipe. To securely connect the device to the plate, it must be laid on a flat surface, then install the device turned upside down with heating elements exactly in the middle of the square so that the device pipes are located strictly perpendicular to any of the edges of the lower square and carefully weld the metal, trying not to overheat the homemade water heater too much.

When the device has completely cooled down, it is also installed upside down on a wooden board and 4 holes are made with a 10 mm drill at the corners of the bottom plate. Holes are required to mount the DIY device to the wall.

Before installing an instantaneous water heater, its functionality must be checked. For this purpose, connect the electric cable to the threaded contact of the heating element, pour enough water into the device to fill the entire space, and connect the device to the network.

Heating element connection diagram

As soon as the water in the device boils, it should be disconnected from the power. If there are no leaks, then the homemade heater should be painted in any color with high-temperature metal paint. Before carrying out this operation, pour water out of it, degrease the surface with a solvent, and paint the device with a spray gun.

Radiator paint

When the paint is dry, you can start installing the device in the plumbing system. To do this, install the device at an equal distance from the points of liquid sampling, and by placing the device with the branch pipes upwards, attach it to the wall. For this purpose, you must first make 4 holes in the vertical surface. With the help of anchor bolts, a homemade electric water heater is attached to the wall from the side of the plate in which special holes were made for this.

After securely fixing the device, a flexible hose with cold water is supplied from the water supply network to one of the nozzles, and the other is connected to the hot water circuit.

Flexible hose for hot water

Then water is supplied to the device and the water heater is tested for leaks by tap pressure. If no leaks are found, then electricity should be connected to the homemade device.

Considering the high power of the device, it is not recommended to use a standard plug to switch on the device. For the water heater, a separate electrical circuit should be distinguished from the incoming electrical panel. You should also install an additional 20 A automatic fuse, which must be in an accessible place to turn on the device when necessary.

When operating a heater of this design, it will be very inconvenient to turn on the device using a switch every time. For more comfortable use of the device, it is recommended to install a pressure switch in the water supply circuit after the heating device. And put a check valve in front of the water heater so that in the absence of water in the water supply, the heating element does not automatically turn on. When using such a scheme, water heating will be carried out only at the moment when the tap is open.

To automatically turn on the device, you can set thermostat directly into the water heater, but the installation of such a system must be done at the stage of manufacturing the device. The disadvantage of a water heating system with a built-in thermostat is that the device will operate in a heater mode, giving off some of the heat to the ambient air. You can reduce losses by covering the device with a heat-resistant heat insulator. Despite the more complex design of such a system, the main difference from a device with an installed pressure sensor will be the instantaneous supply of hot water when the tap is opened. Significant disadvantages include a more significant consumption of electricity due to the more frequent switching on of the heating element.

Thermostat for heating elements

Regardless of the type of system used, switching on the device, it is necessary to install a safety valve in the immediate vicinity of the heating device. During the operation of the water heater, sticking of the relay or thermostat contacts may occur. In this case, the heating element will be constantly on, which will lead to water boiling and high pressure in the system, which can lead to depressurization of the most vulnerable sections of the water supply system. The safety valve will reduce the pressure. When the critical value of this indicator is reached, the shut-off mechanism will open and part of the liquid will be removed into the sewer system.

Collected an independent electrical circuit must also have safety devices and mechanisms. Most often, to prevent electric shock, RCDs are installed, which instantly turn off the electricity supply when an electric current leaks to the case. It is recommended, as well as an automatic device, to install an RCD only in the electric circuit of the water heater.

This device will reliably protect people from electric shock even in the absence of a connected grounding conductor, but in order to increase efficiency, it is recommended to connect the device to ground. To do this, it is enough to connect a conductor from the home grounding system to the body of the water heater. The installation of the wire is carried out using a threaded connection to a nut that was previously welded to a metal pipe.

If a homemade instantaneous electric water heater was made according to the above instructions, then the result will be a reliable device that will fully provide itself with hot water.

How to make a thermostat for a water heater yourself

If the budget is very limited in the manufacture of a water heater, then you can make a thermostat for a water heater with your own hands. The thermal interrupter is installed as follows:

1. Remove from the faulty car of any brand the thermal relay that controls the activation of the forced cooling of the engine.
2. Set the thread type of this part.
3. Select a metal tube of a suitable diameter and tap the internal thread.
4. Make a hole in the instantaneous water heater and weld the threaded pipe.
5. Screw in the thermostat after applying a high-temperature sealant to the threads.

For the correct functioning of the heating element switching system, one cannot do without using an additional 12 V source and an intermediate relay. The relay installed in the system must be reverse acting, that is, open the circuit when a low-voltage voltage is applied to the coil. This feature is due to the fact that in the car, the radiator airflow is turned on when a certain temperature value is exceeded, while the flow-through radiator must be turned off when the temperature value exceeds the critical value.

What can be done from the old heater "Ariston"

"Happy" owners of Ariston water heaters, after multiple replacement of the heating element, decide to purchase and install a device of another brand. From the old device, an excellent version of a country shower is obtained, the water for which is heated by solar energy. To convert the device into a hot water tank, you must:

1. Use a grinder to cut the outer casing of the device and remove it.
2. Remove thermal insulation from the inner tank.
3. Degrease the surface.
4. Paint the tank in matt black with any metal paint.
5. Install and connect the tank to the summer shower system.

The installation of the tank should be carried out at a height of at least 2.5 meters in an area open to sunlight. The most correct would be to install a hot water device directly on the roof of the summer shower. The tank should be installed in a vertical position, and the water connection must be made to the drain pipe of the device, because, unlike the electric model, the water in the summer shower will be drained by gravity.

This version of a country shower is the simplest; if you wish, you can make a more complex design of a device that heats a liquid using solar energy.

Country version of the water heater

Homemade solar water heaters can be made in the country. The only drawback of such devices is the lack of heating during cloudy weather. The solar water heater is made of the following materials and parts:

1. An old refrigerator.
2. Water tank.
3. Reinforced-plastic pipes with a diameter of 16 mm.
4. Edged boards 200 mm wide.
5. Sheet of cellular polycarbonate.
6. Steel sheet with a thickness of 3 mm.
7. Black metal paints.

You will also need to purchase consumables for fastening materials and various adapters for connecting pipes. In addition, you will need to buy a low-power circulation pump.

Making a solar water heater can be done in the following sequence:

1. The rear radiator is removed from the refrigerator and the copper tube is cut off where the unit connects to the compressor and freezer. When performing this operation, it is necessary to retain the original fastening elements of the part.
2. A rectangle is cut out of a metal sheet with a grinder, the length and width of which should be 20 cm more than the parameters of the refrigerator radiator.
3. One of the sides of the metal rectangle is cleaned, degreased and painted black. It is also necessary to paint the radiator of the refrigerator.
4. When the paint is dry, place a copper grid on the painted surface of the sheet metal so that it is equidistant from its corners.
5. On the painted surface of a metal sheet, with any sharp object, notches are made under the mounting holes of the copper radiator.
6. Then, along the marked points, it is necessary to drill holes, the diameter of which should correspond to the holes for fastening the radiator.
7. Along the perimeter of the metal sheet, it is also necessary to make holes with a diameter of 5 mm for attaching the side faces of the device. The distance between the holes should be about 100 mm.
8. With a gas soldering iron, adapters for connecting metal-plastic pipes are soldered to the cut ends of the copper pipes.
9. From the board 200 mm it is necessary to saw off the segments with a hacksaw. 2 segments should be equal to the width of the metal sheet, and the other two should be 50 mm less than its length. After that, the wood must be treated with a protective compound.
10. Sections of the board are installed on an edge along the perimeter of a metal sheet and screwed with self-tapping screws on wood through previously made holes.
11. A copper radiator is installed inside the "box", which is bolted to the metal plate. Branch pipes with adapters for connecting a metal-plastic pipe should be brought out through the holes made with a feather drill in one of the side boards.
12. Cut a rectangle out of a sheet of transparent cellular polycarbonate, which will be equal to the size of the metal base.
13. Screw the polycarbonate rectangle to the ends of the boards with self-tapping screws with rubber washers.
14. The freezer chamber removed from the refrigerator must be installed in the water tank, to the copper pipes of which the adapters must also be soldered. The freezer should be fixed in the lower part of the tank, and the branch pipes should be led out to one of the side walls.

A do-it-yourself country water heater is installed as follows:

After connecting the pump to electricity, the oil will be heated by solar radiation, which will easily pass through the polycarbonate plate. Also, a greenhouse effect is formed in the device, which will allow efficient use of the device even during partly cloudy skies.

The heated oil will transfer heat to the water in the tank with the freezer installed, so it should be insulated with polyurethane foam. The withdrawal of hot water can be forced using a pump or by gravity, but this will require the tank to be installed as high as possible. In order for the heated oil not to cool down on the way to the heat exchanger, the metal-plastic pipes should be covered along the entire length with polyurethane foam.

Making a homemade water heater will not only save money, but also gain invaluable experience in designing complex devices with your own hands. If you yourself need to make an electrode device, then be sure to remember about safety when handling devices powered by electricity.

The problem of hot water becomes relevant where there is no centralized hot water supply: in country houses, private city and country houses. Today, the installation of a ready-made device for heating water to the required temperatures requires a serious investment. An alternative way of supplying hot water is one that you can make yourself. Its advantage is that hot water supply of residential premises is carried out in an economical mode and at minimal financial costs.

Features and diagram of the manufacture of an indirect heating boiler with your own hands

In appearance, an indirect heating boiler is a large storage tank, independent of energy sources (gas, electricity, etc.). Inside the tank, made of corrosion-resistant material, there is a spiral-shaped tube through which the coolant circulates. Cold water is supplied to the tank through an inlet pipe, usually located at the bottom. The water is heated evenly due to the moving heat carrier of the heating system. The hot water outlet pipe is installed at the top. For ease of use, the pipes are equipped with ball valves. The outside of the tank is covered with a layer of thermal insulation.

A drawing for the manufacture of an indirect heating boiler with a volume of 100 liters is shown below:

Schematic diagram of the boiler operation:

Heating water from the boiler enters the tank of the water heater, where, passing through a spiral tube, it is converted into cold water at the outlet. Return chilled water flows back to the boiler.

Advantages and disadvantages of an indirect heating boiler

Pros of using a DIY boiler:

• connection to the central heating system;
• installation near a heating boiler;
• insignificant costs for installation of the circuit;
• significant reduction in energy consumption;
• providing water at a constant temperature.

The disadvantages include the following:

• a large area or a separate room is required to install a boiler;
• it takes a long time to heat a large volume of water, while heating the premises will be carried out at a lower intensity;
• rapid formation of deposits on the serpentine tube, requiring chemical or mechanical cleaning twice a year.

This option for obtaining hot water is suitable during the heating season. At other times, the role of the coolant can be played by an electric heating element built into the boiler tank.

Then the water will be heated using electricity. In this case, you can turn on the boiler at night, when night, low tariffs are in effect, or as needed.

Making a boiler with your own hands

Due to the rather simple principle of operation, such a device can be made independently. Now let's look at how to make an indirect heating boiler with our own hands.

All work on the manufacture of a water heater consists of assembling the components of the structure:

Tank

A tank is used as a boiler tank. Its volume depends on the needs of the owners of the house for hot water and is calculated from the amount of 50–70 liters per person daily. Approximately a 200-liter boiler is suitable for a family of 4.

For the heating device, the tank must be made of stainless steel, aluminum alloys or other material that is resistant to corrosion. Alternatively, a gas cylinder, but its walls must first be cleaned and primed. Without this action, hot water will smell like gas.

5 holes are made in the tank: 2 on the side for mounting the coil, one at the bottom for the inlet pipe, one at the top for taking water and one at the bottom for the drain valve. To use the boiler outside the heating season, the installation of a heating element should be provided. A lower hole is also drilled for it. Shut-off elements or ball valves are attached to the holes drilled.

Coil

A copper or brass tube is suitable for this element, the diameter and length of which depend on the volume of the tank. On average, 1.5 kW of heat output of the serpentine tube is calculated for every 10 liters. You can use a tube made of metal-plastic or other metal with good heat dissipation.

The tube is spirally wound onto a cylindrical mandrel. To do this, you can take a log or a large diameter pipe.

When winding the coil, it is important to keep track of the turns:

• for the best contact of the heating surface of the tube with the heated water, the loops should not touch each other;
• you should not do the winding with excessive force, then it will not be easy to remove the coil from the mandrel.
• The number of turns on the coil is calculated from the volume and height of the tank.

Thermal insulation

The outside of the tank must be covered with a layer of insulation. It is necessary to increase efficiency and reduce heat losses. For insulation of the container, polyurethane foam, mineral wool or any other heat-insulating material, which is attached to the base with wire, glue or strip ties, is suitable. For a neat appearance, it is better to cover the tank body with thin sheet metal or foil insulation.

You can also insulate the tank using another container with a larger diameter. To do this, a do-it-yourself boiler is inserted into a large tank, and the pier, according to the principle of a thermos, is filled with insulating material or foam.

Mounting

The assembly of a self-made boiler is carried out after the preparation of all components:

• a coil in the center or along the walls is mounted inside the tank, pipes are soldered to its inlet and outlet pipes;
• for a vertically standing boiler, supports are welded to the bottom, for a hinged device - “ears” loops;
• the heating element is installed;
• the boiler is tightly closed with a lid;
• connecting the coil according to the scheme for manufacturing an indirect heating boiler with your own hands to the heating system circuit;
• connection of the inlet / outlet pipe for water;
• piping to the kitchen or bathroom at the point of draw-off.

Video: how to make an indirect heating boiler with your own hands

Video: making an indirect heating boiler

2017-01-05 Evgeny Fomenko

There are many options for what can be made from an old boiler:

The potbelly stove body is made from an old boiler

We mark with chalk the places for two rectangular holes, for the door and for the firebox, and cut them out. We position the device so that the hole from the heating element is at the top. We weld the mesh from the fittings from below, weld the holes from the pipes.

We weld canopies on the doors, small strips of metal so that they do not fall through and a small latch. We fix the corners from below as supports. To extract the hole for the heating element in place, cut out a circle along the diameter of the ventilation pipe.

Washbasin from a leaking water heater. We take out the tank, cut off the water inlet and outlet pipes and the upper part. We eliminate the leak by brewing it. We clean the container and paint with enamel. At the place where the pipes were located, we weld the crane.

Trash bin. You can make a beautiful urn out of the body. Cut off a rectangular piece of the casing and make cuts evenly from below, 20 centimeters each, and bend them. We twist it into a pipe and fasten it with rivets.

A place to grow vegetables... Having cut the container along, we get two convenient flower beds, welded supports to them and filled them with earth.

Video "How to make a potbelly stove from an old boiler":

The main advantage of the device is economical consumption of hot water at minimal cost. To heat water, craftsmen use different sources: electric heating element, solar energy, heat from a boiler. This article will describe how to make a water heater.

Indirect heating boiler design

An alternative to the tank is a gas cylinder.

Boiler from a gas cylinder

If you decide to make a boiler from a gas cylinder, then it is better to purchase it new and without a valve. If an old container is used, the hot water may smell like gas.

The cylinder needs a preliminary primer. For this purpose, it is cut into two halves. To prevent an explosion, we advise you to fill it with water first. The inner part of the structure is cleaned and primed. This prevents rusting. After that, the balloon is brewed.

Two holes are cut in the container for the removal of hot and cold water. At the cold water inlet, the supply pipe is equipped with a non-return valve. This prevents water from leaking out of the tank.

To obtain an indirect type heater that will function from the heating system, in addition to the outlets for hot and cold water, two more holes are made for installing a heat exchanger. In it, one pipe is adjacent to the other.

The coil is installed in the center of the tank or along its walls. Nipples are welded to its inlet and outlet pipes.

If you want your device to stand, then the supports should be welded to it. The attachment will require lug loops.

A 32 mm nut is welded to the place where the heating element will be installed. It must have an internal thread. It is advisable to install a heating element for water with the presence of thermoregulation or a signaling sensor. Its power should be equal to 1.2-2 kW.

The result is an indirect heating boiler. In this case, the main structural element is a gas cylinder.

How to make a coil?

The coil is an important part of the device. It can be based on a metal or metal-plastic pipe with a small diameter. As a rule, copper or brass is used, as they have a high level of heat transfer. The manufacturer can choose the diameter of the coil at his discretion. The main condition is that its contact with water is maximal.

The serpentine tube is spirally wound onto a cylinder-shaped mandrel. For this purpose, a log or pipe with a large diameter is used. When winding the coil, you must watch the turns. They should not touch each other.

Do not coil tightly as it will be very difficult to remove the coil from the mandrel.

The number of turns on the coil is in direct proportion to the volume and height of the tank. Typically 1.5 kW of coil heat output is used for every 10 liters.

Thermal insulation

To minimize heat loss, the tank should be wrapped in a layer of thermal insulation.

For this purpose, apply:

• construction foam;
• isolone;
• polyurethane foam;
• foam;
• mineral wool.

Some craftsmen use a foil-based laminate underlay. The water heater is wrapped in this case like a thermos. The insulation is attached with wire, glue or strip ties. We advise you to insulate the entire body.

The casing will provide not only long-term preservation of hot water, but also shorten the heating time of the tank, which will reduce the flow rate of the coolant. Without well-equipped thermal insulation, the water in the device will cool quickly.

Often they resort to building a double tank: a small tank is placed inside a large one. The space created between them also performs a heat-insulating function.

To secure the container, hinges are welded to the upper part of its body, and a metal corner is installed on the wall to which they are attached.

Other methods of making a water heater

You can build a solar water heater. This is a fairly common design that is economical. The device is often found in country houses. The manufacture of the device is not particularly difficult, so many can build it with their own hands.

You will need:

• large capacity tank (100 l and more);
• PVC pipes for filling the container and supplying water to it;
• corners made of steel with a size of 20 mm or square bars of wood with a size of 50 mm for a frame for a container.

It is more advisable to use plastic barrels as a container. They are distinguished by their strength. They should be located in a sunny place with no wind. As a rule, a summer shower roof is chosen for installation.

In order for the barrel to heat up better, it must be painted black. Screens are mounted for protection. They are constructed of boards covered with a reflective foil-like material. In this case, the sun's rays are directed to the tank and increase the water temperature. In hot weather, in a container of 200 liters, you can get water, the temperature of which will be 45 ºС.

Water heater made of polyethylene bottles

A do-it-yourself water heater from ordinary plastic bottles can be made in one day. They form the basis of the storage tank. The number of bottles depends on the desired capacity.

For installation you need:

• sealant;
• PVC pipes;
• drill;
• two valves or ball valves.

First of all, the bottles are prepared. A hole is drilled in the bottom of each, the diameter of which is equal to the diameter of the neck. The neck of the other is inserted into the hole in the bottom of the bottle. This is how they connect. Each battery contains 10 bottles. The number of batteries is not limited. All joints are treated with a sealant.

The finished modules are placed on the south side of the roof on the inner waves of the slate covering. The outlet of each section is connected to a PVC pipe, which is perpendicular to them. The incision of each section is carried out by analogy with the connection of bottles into a battery, followed by glue treatment of all joints.

In the main pipe, to which the outputs of each battery are connected, valves are mounted on both sides for supplying cold water and removing hot water.

This has a fairly high level of functionality. One person needs 100 liters of water to shower. Based on this indicator, you can calculate the volume of the structure.

In summer, in sunny weather, 60 liters of water can be heated up to 45 ºС in an hour. This temperature is quite suitable for domestic and household needs in the country.

Conclusion

The rapid rise in energy prices is forcing many to create cheap alternative devices. Many people build a water heater with their own hands and create comfort at minimal cost.