Despite the fact that today a large number of building materials for interior decoration are presented on the construction market, painted walls do not go out of fashion, as they harmoniously fit into many modern and classic interior styles. When painting is planned, it is expected to result in a perfectly smooth matte or glossy surface. However, unfortunately, even the concrete slabs of modern multi-storey buildings cannot boast of their evenness and smoothness. Therefore, the question arises of how to prepare the walls for painting, so that after the completion of the work they look aesthetically pleasing and neat.

Filling the walls

Leveling surfaces with plasterboard

Aligning the walls with sheets of drywall can be called the simplest option for preparing surfaces for painting, since it is available for execution even by beginners who have no experience in this work.

The canvases can be carried out in two ways - this is by fixing them to a frame structure made of a metal profile or a bar, fixed on the wall, or gluing the sheets to a special adhesive based on a gypsum base.

In the first case, the wall is leveled with a metal frame, the elements of which are set strictly in level and are a ready-made basis for fixing drywall. To adjust the distance from the wall to the racks of the lathing, special metal parts are used - suspensions. It is they who are fixed on the wall, and the racks are already mounted in them. The guides are usually positioned in 600 mm increments, so that each sheet is fixed on at least three frame posts.

Drywall prices

drywall

Another option for installing sheets of gypsum board is gluing them to a special thick solution, which is applied in slides to the wall or directly to the canvas itself. The thickness of the glue to be applied should be 50 ÷ 70 mm - this will allow you to adjust the verticality of the sheet according to the level, so it is not worth pressing it immediately.

It is very important to set the first canvas correctly, as all other sheets will be aligned along it. Each subsequent sheet is checked together with the previous one using a rule and a level vertically, horizontally and diagonally - in all directions, the plasterboard surface should fit perfectly in one plane.

After the drywall is fixed to the wall or frame, it is necessary to putty the joints between the sheets, and then treat their entire surface with a thin layer of putty. Then the applied coating is sanded, primed - and it is ready for further painting.

Quickly and efficiently - leveling the walls using drywall

This material is truly wildly popular, for its versatility and fairly simple installation rules. How to do it yourself - with all the details set out in a special publication of the portal.

So, the process of preparing the walls for the seemingly simplest way of finishing - painting, in fact, turns out to be very laborious. Nevertheless, it must be carried out in full, very carefully, without deviating from the recommended technologies. Otherwise, it will not be possible to obtain a high-quality finishing result, and the painted wall surface will look sloppy.

The article will end with a video in which the master shows in practice the process of preparing the wall for painting

Video: how to properly prepare walls for painting

Currently, a huge number of design options are used for the design of premises. Wall painting in various colors and combinations is widely used. In order for the paint to lay down evenly and last for a long period of time, before starting painting work, you need to learn how to prepare the walls for painting, because this is the only way to be sure that the result will be excellent.

Preparation stages

Depending on the type of walls and the presence of any kind of coating on them, the approach to their preparation will change, so we will consider how to correctly do the work with our own hands.

This must be done first.

We strongly recommend that you de-energize the room by turning off the power supply in the instrument panel. Otherwise, electric shock is possible if the wiring is accidentally damaged. Remove switches and sockets if you have to upholster plaster from the walls. We will not even talk about shelves, paintings and sconces, it is clear that they should not be in the room, but it is better to take out heavy pieces of furniture too. In extreme cases, they can be wrapped in polyethylene, secured with tape, and then covered with cardboard so that a splinter of plaster that suddenly flew off does not damage the cabinet or upholstered furniture.

No matter how carefully you wrap the closet or sofa with polyethylene, there is still a high probability that dust will penetrate inside.

Wall after wallpaper

First, the old coating is removed from all surfaces - wallpaper or paint. If the wallpaper does not come off well, they are pre-moistened with warm water, and then removed with a spatula. The walls are cleared of dust.

If, when peeling off the wallpaper, the old plaster peels off the wall and there are large cracks, then it is removed completely.

How to remove oil paint

Often in apartments and houses you can find walls painted with oil paint, which are firmly embedded in the base. But this is not a verdict, as there are several ways to remove it.

• The usual, uncomplicated, but most laborious method is to remove the paint with a metal scraper.

• You can use a building hairdryer - a small section of the painted wall heats up so much that the paint swells and can be easily removed with a narrow spatula. The work is not dusty, but the burning smell will be very strong, so you will need to constantly ventilate the room, which is not always convenient to do in winter. Immediately it is worth making a reservation that it will go relatively quickly with a painted wooden surface. If the wall is made of dense building material (stone, brick, concrete), then it will take much longer to heat it up, so the heat will be absorbed by it.

• It is not the first year that people have been using paint removers, but if you have to clean a large section of a wall or even several walls, then this technology will turn out to be very costly, due to the fact that you will need to purchase a large amount of this chemical. Choosing this method, you need to take into account that it is not suitable for people with allergies. Masters advise to work in a respirator, but it will not protect against fumes - only a gas mask will help. In addition, the remover is very aggressive and comes into contact not only with paint, but with everything it comes into contact with, including human skin. If you handle it carelessly, you can get a serious chemical burn, which will leave an ugly scar on your body.

• With the help of a grinder (or a drill) and a nozzle (like a metal brush), you can relatively quickly cope with the task. The method, although effective, is very dusty and noisy. In addition, pieces of paint scatter in different directions at great speed and can even bite into the body, so not only the eyes need protection. You also need to take into account the wear of the tool (the grinder must be protected from dust penetration) and consumables. Calculate how many m2 you have to clean and divide by 5 - this will be the number of brushes that will wear out during operation. Let us explain the calculation - 1 brush is enough to clean 5 m 2 of the surface.

Removing water-based paint

Water-based paint has been widely used not so long ago, but often there is a need to update it or paint the walls with oil paint. First of all, you need to figure out whether you need to rinse off the water-based paint at all. The point is, unless the paint is flaking and there is no other good reason to remove it, then there is no need to remove it. In such a situation, a layer of fresh paint can be applied over the old one. First, remove dust from the wall and prime the surface with an acrylic primer. After the wall is dry, you can paint it.

If the old paint is lumpy, peeling, does not match in color, or many layers of paint have been applied, then it will have to be removed. Let's consider some ways.

We use water

Of course, flushing is not carried out with water from a hose, so you will also need some tools:

• A high stool, and if the repair is carried out in a stalinka apartment, then a stepladder will be required.
• Narrow and wide metal spatula.
• Wide water tank.
• Roller with a long handle.
• Respirator and goggles.
• Metal brush.

Cover the floor with newspapers or plastic wrap.

How to wash off an ordinary emulsion

1. You need to draw warm water into the prepared container.
2. With your glasses on, dip a roller in water and use it to wet the area of ​​the wall where paint will be removed.
3. In addition to the glasses, after 15 minutes, put on a respirator and begin to remove the soaked paint with a scraper.
4. If there are places where the paint does not peel off, then the soaking procedure must be repeated. If this time it did not work out, then you can use a metal brush.
5. Having finished cleaning the intended area, you can proceed to the next.

We wash off the waterproof emulsion

The algorithm for removing waterproof emulsion paint will be as follows:

1. If, after wetting, the paint is not wet, it means that it is moisture resistant and therefore it needs to be scratched with a metal brush, cleaning off the top layer.
2. Now a fragment of the wall needs to be moistened with water several times at intervals of 10 minutes. This procedure is performed until the paint swells and becomes pliable.
3. Further, the cleaning process is the same as in the previous case.

Using glue

Many people are familiar with the picture when, when the wallpaper is removed, the coating applied to the wall leaves with it. Now we will use this method to remove the water emulsion.

1. We need regular paste or glue for wallpaper and newspapers or old unnecessary wallpaper.
2. The glue is applied to the paper, after which it must be firmly glued to the wall, otherwise all the paint will not come off.
3. After our impromptu wallpaper is dry, remove it by prying it off with a spatula.
4. It remains to look at the wall and remove the remaining paint with a spatula or brush.

As with oil paint, you can use a grinder or hair dryer to remove a thick layer of emulsion.

Chemicals

On sale there are many effective preparations designed to remove water-based paint. Unfortunately, they are unsafe and can harm human health if the manufacturer's instructions are not followed. Although the instructions for use may differ slightly depending on the manufacturer, it boils down to one thing - the product is applied to the wall (except for plastic), and then after 10-15 minutes it is removed along with the paint.

How to clean drywall from old paint

As a rule, no one ever paints drywall walls with grease, so in the overwhelming majority of cases they do not need to be cleaned of paint, and minor irregularities or pits can be leveled with putty.

If such a need has arisen, then it is important to remember that by peeling off the paint, you can peel off the cardboard as well. Therefore, it is better to carry out cleaning work with emery cloth or washes. Then the wall is dedusted and impregnated with a primer. This completes the preparation of the plasterboard base.

Having finished removing the old paint, let's start preparing the base.

Brick and concrete walls

Plastered walls with large holes and cracks are treated with a cement-sand mortar, and after it dries with a starting putty, which contains particles of fine sand. It is applied in a layer up to 5 mm. This putty adheres well to the wall, does not crack and does not shrink when it dries. The hardening time is about 40 minutes, so you need to dilute it in small quantities.

If the irregularities are more than 4 mm, a reinforcing mesh is used. The wall itself is aligned first, and then the corners. Concrete walls should be free of cracks, but if there are any, then they, together with the grooves, must be leveled with putty.

Types of putty

According to its composition, the putty used is divided into several types:

• Cement... The most affordable option, has good qualities, but is not entirely plastic, and can give slight shrinkage when dry.
• Gypsum... It has good elasticity, has poor sound conductivity, also retains moisture, but hardens quickly and has a high cost.
• Polymer... When solidified, it becomes very strong, tolerates temperature fluctuations well, does not shrink, but the most expensive in its segment.

Putty process

• After drying, the walls are treated with a finishing putty. The entire material should be of the same color, as stains may appear after painting. It is applied in a layer up to 2 mm over the entire wall, even where there are no microcracks.
• Then, after hardening, the walls are smoothed with sandpaper or a grinder. During this procedure, all small irregularities are removed.
• The paintable wall is cleaned of dust and a primer is applied with a roller. For each type of surface, a mixture of the required composition is selected. After all the above steps, the walls are ready for painting.

If before starting work on the walls there are traces of mold or dampness, then they are treated with special compounds against fungus and mold. And damp places are dried before that.

So, in order for the paint to lay flat and hold for a long time, the walls must be perfectly smooth, without irregularities.

If you decide that this activity is not for you, then before inviting the masters, you need to find out how much such work costs. Prices range from 150 rubles. per m2, but so that the amount does not "accidentally" grow by a third, or even half, agree in advance with the foreman to come and, assessing the complexity of the work, named a specific amount.

Video: preparing walls for painting

Preparing walls for painting is quite an important point. After all, this directly affects the appearance and ensures the durability of the coating. After all, if the most expensive paint is applied on a plane without preparation, it will not last long.

We will consider how the preparation for painting the walls is done. You can also watch the video in this article and photos that will help you not to miss anything.

In the production of finishing work, the preparation of walls for painting is extremely important. If painting is chosen as a finish, then this is an almost universal option, suitable for most possible surfaces.

They can be conditionally divided into four groups:

• A surface on which plaster and putty have already been applied;
• Embossed cladding;
• Smooth type cladding (e.g. decorative panels made of wood or plastic).

Attention: Preparing the surface in different cases will require different ways. In most cases, however, preparing wall surfaces for painting will involve leveling and filler. The responsible preparatory process is worth considering in more detail.

Step one. Leveling and processing

The smoother the painted surface of the walls, the easier it will be to paint on it and the better the result will be. It is possible to achieve the most even surface, and there are several ways for this.

It is worth considering the most popular:

1. Grinding. This method can be used only if the existing concrete base (or existing plaster (see How to grout plaster)) has high strength, and there are no visible mechanical defects. Then the layer of the existing coating is removed with a sanding bar, as well as with ordinary sandpaper. You cannot do without the use of an antiseptic and a primer. If areas are found affected by fungus and / or high humidity, they must be cleaned and plastered. After completing the preparatory work, you need to make sure that the level differences do not exceed 1-2 mm;
2. Plastering. The method is suitable in cases of cosmetic repairs or in case of significant peeling of the existing plaster, when the old coating is applied in a thin layer and / or is easily removed. In addition, plastering is one of the processes carried out when leveling by grinding;
3. Plasterboard sheets... If the walls themselves are extremely uneven, have significant level differences or visible mechanical defects (which do not affect the strength of the structure), then the optimal way out is to cover the walls with plasterboard sheets (see Wall cladding with plasterboard sheets in different ways).

When choosing a preparation method, you must also be guided by personal preferences and financial capabilities.

Attention: In any case, after leveling the surfaces, they should be carefully primed. Before proceeding, the primer must be completely dry.

This usually takes about six hours, sometimes with high humidity, the process can be delayed. In this case, you should not rush, and you can continue preparatory work only when the surface is completely dry.

Step two. Starter putty

Plasterboard sheets or a solution of sand and cement are either porous materials or absorb moisture well. It is impossible to paint such surfaces, since the paint will not lie flat, in addition, the most insignificant irregularities will be clearly visible, and even a slight color change is possible.

To avoid such troubles, you will need to apply a layer of putty.

Note a few basic rules here:

• Choosing a starter filler is a very important process. In the composition of such a putty, sand must be present, and the smallest fractions. The layer of starting putty can be quite thick - about 4 mm;
• To work, you will need two spatulas at once: a wide one - to apply the solution (its width should be at least 60 centimeters), and a narrow one - it is useful for distributing the solution and comparing small irregularities (from 20 to 25 cm). You need to dilute the putty exactly in accordance with the instructions on the package. This is done just before starting work. Such a solution grabs in about 45 minutes. If it is decided to use ready-made mixtures, then they must also be used immediately after they have been opened;
• The ideal option for preparing walls for painting is a putty with reinforcement. To do this, you can use a nylon fiber mesh with a mesh size of 2 mm. The application technology is as follows: a strip of putty is applied with a thickness of no more than 2 mm and a width equal to the width of the mesh, the mesh must be applied to the putty layer and pressed with a spatula (without undue enthusiasm), on top of the mesh - another layer of mortar.

Attention: When working with a spatula, narrow protruding strips of mortar always remain along its edges. You should not waste extra time and effort on smoothing them, the main thing is to make sure that there are no large depressions or places where there is no solution.

1. To level the transitions between the stripes, it is enough to run a spatula over the surface two or three times, while very thin bumps may remain, which can be smoothed out later, before the finishing putty;
2. Beginners try to prevent the appearance of these bumps by applying small portions of the solution using a large spatula. This should not be done, as the quality of the final result will suffer. As a rule, the more experience a master has, the better the result will be.

Allow the putty to dry completely before continuing. This usually takes 6 to 8 hours. After making sure that the surface is dry, you can start sanding. A coarse abrasive mesh is quite suitable for these works, the grain size should be 120 mm. Irregularities and visible imperfections are removed at this stage.

After completing this work, the surface is still not ready for painting and remains too grainy.

Step three. Finishing putty

This process is needed to get the most even surface into which paint will not absorb. The composition of the finishing putty, as a rule, contains non-coarse components of fine fractions, such as sand.

When performing such work, you should remember several important recommendations:

1. The finish coat should be thin (about 1.5 mm, but not more than 2 mm), if a thicker coat is applied, the coating may crack. For work, you will need to use a narrow metal spatula, spread the solution only in small portions. It may be necessary to apply a second layer, but this is permissible only when the first is completely dry;
2. Grinding is required as carefully and accurately as possible, a mesh with a grain of 60 -80 mm is suitable (see How to grind walls after putty and how to do it correctly). You need to polish slowly, with smooth movements, so that the fresh putty does not accidentally be cut off;
3. The work will need to be checked. A lamp is useful for this (you can even take a tabletop). To see possible irregularities or imperfections, the light beam must be directed to the surface at an angle. If there are any shortcomings, the site is re-processed;
4. After the putty has completely dried, it's time to start priming the surface.

Attention: Dust left after sanding will need to be removed. This work can be done using a clean cloth or a regular vacuum cleaner. Never wipe the surface with wet materials.

You can use a roller or brushes to complete the primer work. As a rule, one coat of primer is sufficient. The time it takes for the composition to dry is usually indicated on the package. For mixtures from different manufacturers, the drying period of the primer may be different. It is impossible to paint the surface before it is completely dry.

Step four. Completion of preparatory work

As a rule, a mesh or sandpaper is used for grinding.

Each of the options has both its advantages and disadvantages, and everyone can choose the most suitable for themselves:

1. Sandpaper. It is well known to domestic consumers, it is sold either in rolls, or in sheets, or in pieces cut to the size of a standard grater. The main advantage of sandpaper is its low cost. However, it has a number of disadvantages, including a short service life. It wears out too quickly, it can get clogged with dust that appears during grinding. A piece of mortar can stick to the sandpaper, then the leveled surface can be scratched;
2. Abrasive mesh. Its main advantage is its perforated structure. Construction dust does not accumulate on the surface, but freely passes through the cells. The wear resistance of the mesh is much higher than that of sandpaper. The need to replace the mesh will be indicated either by its appearance (it will begin to wear off), or by a decrease in the quality of grinding.

If the choice is made in favor of the first option, then close attention will need to be paid to such an indicator as graininess. The starting layer of the putty can be processed with coarse sandpaper. For example, indicators P60 - P80 are suitable. For sanding the finishing layer, you will need fine-grained sandpaper (from P100).

Attention: In addition to the grater, a sanding sponge is useful (it must have beveled edges) - this tool will be used to process the corners. This sponge can be replaced by any auxiliary items, for example, a fine-grained skin folded in half.

Description of the correct process of grinding technology

One might get the impression that this is a primitive process, however, it has some subtleties and tricks. Let's get acquainted with the correct sanding of the wall after the applied putty:

Wait for the filler to dry completely. Check its condition and only then continue to work. He must acquire sufficient strength.

• Correctly attach the abrasive to the grater. Check the availability of the necessary protective equipment and their quality. Prepare the ladder for work. Take a suitable spatula and start working;
• Deal with the removal of noticeable bumps with a spatula if found;
• Start at the top of either corner. Use circular motions for small sections of the wall. You can help yourself by illuminating with a spotlight;
• Do not put excessive pressure on the grater, especially during the sanding process of the final layer of putty. Otherwise, there is a risk of rubbing it completely;
• At the time of sanding, pay attention only to sags and protrusions. It is not necessary to work on the pits and holes, they will be processed later with putty. Let the work dry. Now bring the surface to perfection;
• Proceed to processing the entire area of ​​the walls and internal, as well as external corners.

Preparing to paint wooden walls

Preparing for painting wooden walls with your own hands is done a little differently. You cannot use different versions of plaster or putty for them - you just need to properly sand the surfaces, clean out the dust and some excess wood pile after work.

So:

• If you find some indentations or scratches on the wooden wall, fill them with a specialized grout. In most cases, it will have to be used to work with plank versions of the walls, since they differ in traces formed by protruding knots. After completing the necessary processing, the wooden surface must be treated with protective compounds and stain.
• If there is a need to paint a certain decorative version of plaster, some wallpaper (allowed for painting) or a textured finish, the wall should only be primed. Plasters are painted using specialized compounds capable of penetrating far into their composition, and non-woven or vinyl wallpaper can be painted using other adhesive solutions diluted to a liquid state.

Attention: It is important to remember that the process of preparing the walls before painting is extremely important and therefore should be treated very responsibly. Its quality will have an impact on the visual impression created by the entire finish, its resistance to time and environmental influences.

Preparing the walls for painting with water-based paint, or any other, does not matter. Preparation is done anyway. The price of these works is not high and the instructions will help to do them quickly and efficiently.

Insofar as paint does not perform reinforcing functions, as well as does not hide visible imperfections on the walls, it is necessary to prepare the surface in advance.

The painting result will be excellent only if the wall is properly prepared.

The technology of preparing walls for painting will be discussed.

Types of surfaces for painting

Since it is not always possible to find concrete walls in modern interiors, it is extremely important to navigate what procedures are intended for the preparation of other surfaces. For example, plasterboard or wooden partitions are often erected in rooms, and the principle of preparing such surfaces for painting is slightly different from the standard procedure.

As for the walls themselves, depending on their appearance, you can highlight several options for painting the surface:

• smooth wall, leveled with putty or plaster;
• surface with embossed plaster;
• facing materials with an even outer layer;
• embossed cladding.

Since the painting process itself in this case will be different, each of these surfaces is prepared differently... However, preparing walls for painting involves leveling and filling the walls - these are two standard procedures common to any type of surface. Let's see how this is done.

Features of the wall alignment process

Even if you do not observe visible irregularities on the surface of the wall, you should not neglect such procedures: perhaps when painting the walls in a different color, such flaws will become apparent and it will be too late to fix it. If you do not want to redo such work several times, it is better from the very beginning. carefully level the surface using one of these methods:

• surface grinding;
• using plaster;
• creating a flat surface of drywall.

Attention! Do not forget to get rid of old finishing materials before leveling to create the best effect.

The first option can be used when preparing concrete walls for painting: in the event that a concrete wall or a plastered surface is highly durable and does not have significant defects or damage. Get rid of the old liner and plaster layer using sandpaper or a special sanding block.

Remember! If the wall covering is old enough, it is necessary to treat the surface with an antiseptic and prime it.

Minor irregularities and damage associated with dampness or fungus, it is necessary clean and plaster... After all the leveling work has been carried out, make sure that the level difference does not exceed 2 mm. Then you can proceed to the next stage of wall preparation - putty.

Sometimes drops or irregularities are still striking, in addition, there may be cases when old plaster peeled off the surface. Under such conditions, the most correct way to prepare the wall can be considered complex replacement of plaster or surface cladding with gypsum plasterboards.

When choosing the appropriate option, focus on the conditions of the room (for example, humidity), on your own preferences and financial capabilities. In order to implement such methods, you must completely get rid of the old coating- and start creating a new leveled surface.

Smooth walls are primed, after which they must dry completely(as a rule, it takes about 5-6 hours). It is advisable to wait until it is completely dry, since additional difficulties may arise during further processing of a wet surface.

Subsequent procedures

After the wall is leveled, you can proceed to the next stage of surface preparation, namely - to cover with starting putty... This procedure is carried out because practically all types of surfaces are unsuitable for painting without creating an additional layer of putty... As a rule, they are capable of absorbing moisture or have a porous surface, so the paint will lay down unevenly, leaving ugly stains that spoil the appearance of the wall.

A putty that can solve this problem is made from fine sand, so you can apply it wide enough(3-4 mm) and do not be afraid that cracks will form on such a surface.

Such a mixture is applied with a wide spatula (about 60-80 cm), and using a small spatula (20-25 cm), you can smooth out small irregularities and the solution itself. note that it is necessary to dilute the putty before use in the proportions indicated on the package... Typically, the putty hardens after 45 minutes.

Advice: when puttingty the surface for painting, you can use a special reinforcing net with small cells of 2 mm. It is attached to the applied layer of putty, and from above it is processed with such a mixture again.

Quite often, in the process of applying the putty, attention is paid to small stripes that remain at the edges of the spatula. You should not try to completely smooth them out, the main thing is make sure that there are no depressions or areas without mortar on the surface... Small bumps can be removed before the last coat of putty is applied.

Moreover, a common mistake is trying to apply a small amount of solution... Applying the mortar only to the center of the trowel and smoothing it thoroughly to create a very thin layer will not achieve the desired result. You can avoid all these mistakes by gaining experience.

After the putty is dry (6-8 hours), you can grind the surface... This can be done with abrasive mesh with a grain of 120 The use of such a mesh helps to get rid of visible irregularities and imperfections. However, due to the graininess, you will have to re-treat the surface applying a finishing putty.

Since the finishing putty does not include sand and other grainy materials, you you can get a perfectly flat surface... And since the paint will not be absorbed into such a layer, you will get the desired and lasting color.

The finishing putty is applied in the same way as the starting putty, but it is advisable not to make too large a layer (a layer up to 1.5-2 mm), since such a surface may crack. After applying the finishing putty sand the wall again using an abrasive mesh with a grain size of 60-80.

Attention! Do not sand the wall too thoroughly, otherwise you may comb off the entire applied layer of putty and not achieve the desired result.

If necessary, you you can apply several layers, but it should only be done if when one layer did not give the desired effect... Checking the wall for readiness for painting is carried out using a lamp. At an oblique angle, you can see all surface defects that are removed by grinding.

After sanding the wall is cleared of dust and residues of used materials. For these purposes, you can take a dry cloth or use a vacuum cleaner.

Remember! Do not wipe off the dust with damp rags, otherwise you can ruin the surface, and the preparatory work will have to be redone.

After cleaning, the wall is primed... This is the last stage of surface preparation, therefore then you can safely start painting the wall.

If you are going to paint wood, pre-grind it and treat it with special solutions that will protect the surface from damage and negative influences. The embossed surface is prepared for painting with a primer... Wallpaper can be treated with adhesive, and plaster can be treated with special types of primer that penetrate deeply into the surface.

The process of preparing the wall can take quite a long time, but this is more a plus than a minus, since the final result will depend on your accuracy... If you doubt that you can do it on your own, you will probably be interested to know the cost of preparing walls for painting: the cost of the work of specialists will be on average 450-600 rubles per 1 sq. m (without plastering). By the way, for plastering the walls with a layer of 20 mm, you will have to pay another 250 rubles - for each square meter.

Watch a detailed video on preparing walls for painting:

There is nothing complicated in the procedures for preparing for painting, and the saturation and brightness of the wall color will be proof that you have wasted your time.

You will need

• - spatula
• - rollers
• - cuvette
• - putty
• - primer
• - fiberglass
• - a bucket for putty

Instructions

First, clean the walls from the previous coating. If there was wallpaper, then wet and remove it. If there was whitewash on the walls, rinse it off with warm water. But if there was oil paint, then it will be more serious. Try to scrub past paint down to the base of the wall, i.e. panel or plaster. You can do this with a spatula, and if the paint does not lend itself, then try to do it with a hatchet or chisel. In any case, clean the surface of the walls thoroughly.

After you have freed the walls from the old paint, proceed to repair the walls. Defects are such as: cracks, plaster falling off or, even worse, fungus on the walls.

If there are cracks on the wall, cut them deeper, then prime. If the cracks are not deep, then putty them with base putty, and if the cracks are very deep, then seal them with mortar. It so happens that pieces of plaster form a layer away from the wall along with painting or wallpaper. Do not ignore such problems. Take a hammer and knock down the plaster to the base of the wall, and prime and plaster the chips.

Fungus on the walls is a frequent visitor on the ground floors. Take a special composition for the fungus and apply it with a brush, trying to rub it into the walls. This will help you get rid of this trouble in the future. If there are any other flaws on the walls that you saw, then try to remove them before the finishing putty.

The next step in your work will be the priming of the walls. You are convinced that the walls are repaired - all cracks, holes, chips are repaired. Then proceed to primer the entire wall surface with an acrylic primer, as it is applicable to all types of surfaces. Take a foam roller, dip it into a cuvette (special container for paint) with primer and squeeze it out. Now apply the primer to the wall from the bottom up and take your time. Try to keep all sections of the wall with a primer.

In order for the walls to be subsequently free of cracks, a special fiberglass is glued to them. This coating is strong enough, it does not tear, it adheres firmly to the wall. Glue it with vinyl wallpaper glue and smooth it with a special spatula. Dissolve the glue as written on the box and let it stand for a while. Next, take a roller and glue the wall with glue. Cut the fiberglass, which will be equal to the height of the wall, and glue it, smoothing from the center to the edges. Glue the next blade with an overlap on the previous one and cut through both blades with a spatula. You will get that both canvases hang end-to-end seam. When you paste over all the walls with canvas, then once again go over them with glue. Do this to avoid applying primer.