(or PSU) supplies electricity to all other components of the computer. Therefore, without a power supply, nothing will work.

Connecting a power supply is not the most difficult task when assembling or repairing a computer. However, many PC users are baffled by it. This is due to the fact that there are many cables coming from the power supply, and users are afraid to confuse something and connect it incorrectly. In this article we will tell you how to connect a power supply and you can make sure that it is very simple and accessible to anyone.

The power supply is a small steel box that fits inside the system unit. Depending on the design, the power supply can be installed at the top or bottom of the case. Cables run from the power supply to the rest of the computer. In inexpensive models of power supplies, these cables simply come out of a special hole in the block, in more advanced models, the cables must be connected to special connectors on one side of the block.

If you decide to replace the old power supply with a new one, then the first thing you need to do is remove the old power supply. This is quite simple to do.

Step # 1. Power off the computer completely. Disconnect the power cord at the back of the system unit. After you have disconnected the power cord, you need to wait 2-3 minutes before starting to work with the computer.

Step # 2. Disconnect the wires that go from the computer unit to other computer components. Open the side cover of the system unit and carefully disconnect all wires that come from the computer unit. As a rule, these are: power supply of the motherboard and processor, power supply, power supply of the video card and other devices.

Step # 3. Dismantle the old power supply. The power supply is fixed by 4 screws that are screwed on the back of the system unit. Unscrew the screws carefully and slowly pull out the power supply. In most cases, the power supply can be removed without removing other computer components.

How to connect a new power supply

The process of connecting a power supply is not much different from disconnecting. All the same steps in reverse order.

Step # 1. Install the new power supply into the chassis. Reinstall the power supply carefully. During installation, make sure that the sharp corners of the power supply do not scratch the motherboard or other computer components. After the power supply is installed, it must be secured with four screws on the back of the computer case.

Step # 2. Connect your computer components to the power supply. Connect all components that require a separate power supply to the power supply. When connecting, do not be afraid that you may connect something wrong. All connectors are uniquely shaped. Therefore, it is simply not physically possible to insert a connector into the wrong connector. Let's go through all the main connectors briefly:

The largest connector that connects to is 20 + 4 pins.

Connects to the motherboard, consists of 4 or 6 pins.

It looks the same as the connector for the processor power supply, but it consists of 6 or 8 pins and connects to the video card.

Powering hard drives. Narrow and long connector, with SATA connector.

For older PATA drives, a four-pin MOLEX connector is used.

If your hard drive uses SATA power and the power supply only has MOLEX outputs, then you can use a MOLEX to SATA power adapter.

A small four-pin connector, used to connect an FDD or card reader.

Step # 3. Turn on your computer. After you have connected all the connectors inside the system unit, you can connect the power and turn on the computer.

Today, LED backlighting is very popular, made on the basis of an LED strip and a 12 / 24V power source. Many customers who decide to make such a backlight for themselves are faced with the installation of power supplies for the first time.

And therefore, you are not familiar with the important rules that should be followed if you want your LED backlight to work reliably and for a long time.

Installation rules

1. When purchasing, remember that not all power supplies can be installed in rooms with high humidity (units with a degree of dust and moisture protection from IP54 and higher are suitable for wet rooms).
2. Do not install the power supplies in rooms with high temperatures, near heat sources (the temperature of the case should not be higher than 50 0 C).
3. For normal cooling, it is necessary to provide a free space around the unit of at least 200 mm in all directions (otherwise it may fail due to overheating). Therefore, it is not recommended to install power supplies in closed niches.
4. Do not place sources close to each other.
5. Do not load the power supply more than 80% from the specified power. During operation, the temperature of the case should not exceed 50 0 C. Otherwise, the maximum permissible load will sharply decrease.
6. Do not connect in parallel the outputs of the power supplies
7. Do not place power supplies where water can accumulate. This causes destructive electrochemical processes.
8. Do not use a power source with 220V dimmers.

Connection rules

The most important thing when connecting the power supply is do not confuse input with output... Otherwise, it will immediately burn out irrevocably (in the case of an attempt to exchange such a unit under warranty, you will be denied, since an incorrect connection is easily diagnosed).

1. Check that the power supply is not visibly damaged and that the output voltage and wattage of the power supply are adequate for the connected load.
2. Carefully check the correct connection to the 220V network:
   Mains voltage is applied to the input wires (brown and blue) or terminals marked as AC IN, INPUT, AC L, AC N.
   The output wires (red and black) are marked as DC OUT, OUTPUT, V +, V-... Make sure they are not closed together.
3. Turn on the power. Let the power supply run for 20 minutes with the load connected. The case temperature should not exceed 50 ° C.

Possible malfunctions of power supplies and methods and elimination

Malfunction manifestation	Cause of malfunction	Elimination method
Power supply does not turn on	No contact in connections	Check all connections
	Power supply input and output are reversed	As a result of such a connection, the voltage source immediately fails.
	Wrong polarity of load connection	Reconnect the load, observing the polarity. If the problem persists, check that the load is working properly.
Spontaneous periodic switching on and off
	There is a short circuit in the load	Check all circuits carefully for short circuits.
Case temperature more than + 50C	The maximum permissible load power has been exceeded	Reduce the load or replace the PSU with a more powerful one
	Insufficient heat dissipation	Check the ambient temperature, provide ventilation
The output voltage of the source is not stable or does not match the rated value	Electronic circuit inside the source is defective	Do not try to find the cause yourself. Take the power supply to a service center

Similar instructions.

Switching power supplies (SMPS) are usually quite complex devices, which is why novice radio amateurs tend to avoid them. Nevertheless, thanks to the proliferation of specialized integrated PWM controllers, it is possible to design designs that are simple enough to understand and repeat, with high power and efficiency. The proposed power supply has a peak power of about 100 W and is built according to the flyback topology (flyback converter), and the control element is a CR6842S microcircuit (pin-compatible analogs: SG6842J, LD7552 and OB2269).

Attention! In some cases, you may need an oscilloscope to debug the circuit!

Specifications

Block dimensions: 107x57x30 mm (dimensions of the finished block with Aliexpress, deviations are possible).
Output voltage: 24 V (3-4 A) and 12 V (6-8 A) versions.
Power: 100 watts
Ripple level: no more than 200 mV.

On Ali, it is easy to find many options for ready-made blocks according to this scheme, for example, by queries of the form "Artillery power supply 24V 3A", "Power supply unit XK-2412-24", "Eyewink 24V switching power supply" and the like. On radio amateur portals, this model has already been dubbed "popular", due to its simplicity and reliability. Circuitry options 12V and 24V differ slightly and have an identical topology.

An example of a finished power supply with Ali:

Note! In this PSU model, the Chinese have a very high percentage of rejects, therefore, when buying a finished product, before turning it on, it is advisable to carefully check the integrity and polarity of all elements. In my case, for example, the VD2 diode had the wrong polarity, because of which, after three switchings, the unit burned out and I had to change the controller and the key transistor.

In detail, the methodology for designing an SMPS in general, and specifically this topology in particular, will not be considered here, due to the too large amount of information - see separate articles.

Switching power supply unit with a power of 100W based on the CR6842S controller.

Assignment of elements of the input circuit

We will consider the block diagram from left to right:

F 1	Conventional fuse.
5D-9	Thermistor, limits the inrush current when the power supply is connected to the network. At room temperature, it has a small resistance that limits current surges, when current flows, it heats up, which causes a decrease in resistance, therefore, it does not further affect the operation of the device.
C 1	Input capacitor for unbalanced noise suppression. It is permissible to increase the capacity a little, it is desirable that it be a noise suppression capacitor of the type X2 or had a large (10-20 times) operating voltage margin. For reliable suppression of interference, it must have low ESR AND ESL.
L 1	Common mode filter for symmetrical noise suppression. Consists of two inductors with the same number of turns, wound on a common core and connected in phase.
KBP307	Rectifier diode bridge.
R 5, R 9	Chain required to run the CR6842. Through it, the primary charge of the capacitor C 4 to 16.5V is carried out. The circuit must provide a starting current of at least 30 μA (maximum, according to the datasheet) over the entire range of input voltages. Also, in the process of operation, through this chain, the input voltage is monitored and the voltage is compensated at which the key is closed - an increase in the current flowing into the third pin causes a decrease in the threshold voltage for closing the key.
R 10	Timing resistor for PWM. Increasing this resistor value will decrease the switching frequency. The denomination should be in the range of 16-36 kOhm.
C 2	Smoothing capacitor.
R 3, C 7, VD 2	Snubber circuit that protects the key transistor from reverse emissions from the primary winding of the transformer. It is advisable to use R 3 with a power of at least 1W.
C 3	A capacitor that bridges the interwinding capacitance. Ideally, it should be of the Y-type, or it should have a large margin (15-20 times) in terms of operating voltage. Serves to reduce interference. The rating depends on the parameters of the transformer; it is undesirable to make it too large.
R 6, VD 1, C 4	This circuit, powered by the auxiliary winding of the transformer, forms the power supply circuit of the controller. Also, this chain affects the cycle of the key. It works as follows: for correct operation, the voltage at the seventh pin of the controller must be in the range of 12.5 - 16.5 V. The voltage of 16.5V at this pin is the threshold at which the key transistor opens and energy begins to be stored in the core of the transformer (at this time, the microcircuit is powered from C 4). When it drops below 12.5V, the microcircuit is turned off, so the capacitor C 4 must provide power to the controller while no energy comes from the auxiliary winding, so its rating should be enough to keep the voltage above 12.5V while the key is open. The lower limit of the C 4 rating should be calculated based on a controller consumption of about 5 mA. The time of the private key depends on the charging time of this capacitor to 16.5V and it is determined by the current that the auxiliary winding can give, while the current is limited by the resistor R 6. Among other things, by means of this circuit, the controller provides overvoltage protection in case of failure of the feedback circuits - if the voltage exceeds 25V, the controller will turn off and will not start working until the power from the seventh pin is removed.
R 13	Limits the charge current of the gate of the key transistor, and also ensures its smooth opening.
VD 3	Transistor gate protection.
R 8	Pulling the bolt to the ground has several functions. For example, if the controller is turned off and the internal pullup is damaged, this resistor will provide a quick discharge of the gate of the transistor. Also, with the correct wiring of the board, it will provide a shorter path of the gate discharge current to the ground, which should have a positive effect on noise immunity.
BT 1	Key transistor. Installed on the radiator through an insulating gasket.
R 7, C 6	The circuit serves to smooth out voltage fluctuations across the current sense resistor.
R 1	Current measuring resistor. When the voltage on it exceeds 0.8V, the controller closes the key transistor, thus regulating the open key time. In addition, as mentioned above, the voltage at which the transistor will turn off also depends on the input voltage.
C 8	Feedback optocoupler filtering capacitor. It is permissible to slightly increase the denomination.
PC817	Opto-decoupling of the feedback circuit. If the optocoupler transistor closes, it will cause an increase in voltage at the second pin of the controller. If the voltage at the second pin exceeds 5.2V for longer than 56 ms, this will cause the switch transistor to close. Thus, overload and short-circuit protection is realized.

In this diagram, the 5th pin of the controller is not used. However, according to the datasheet on the controller, you can hang an NTC thermistor on it, which will ensure that the controller turns off in case of overheating. The stabilized output current of this pin is 70 μA. Temperature protection actuation voltage 1.05V (protection will turn on when the resistance reaches 15 kOhm). Recommended thermistor rating is 26 kΩ (at 27 ° C).

Pulse transformer parameters

Since a pulse transformer is one of the most difficult elements of a pulse unit in design, the calculation of a transformer for each specific topology of the unit requires a separate article, therefore there will not be a detailed description of the methodology here, nevertheless, to repeat the described design, the main parameters of the transformer used should be indicated.

It should be remembered that one of the most important design rules is the correspondence between the overall power of the transformer and the output power of the power supply, so the first thing, in any case, choose the cores that are suitable for your task.

Most often, this design is supplied with transformers made on EE25 or EE16 cores or similar. It was not possible to collect enough information on the number of turns in this SMPS model, since in different modifications, despite similar schemes, different cores are used.

An increase in the difference in the number of turns leads to a decrease in the switching losses of the switch transistor, but increases the requirements for its load capacity for the maximum drain-source voltage (VDS).

For example, we will focus on standard cores of the EE25 type and the value of the maximum induction Bmax = 300 mT. In this case, the ratio of turns of the first-second-third winding will be 90:15:12.

It should be remembered that the specified ratio of turns is not optimal and may need to be adjusted according to the test results.

The primary winding should be wound with a conductor not thinner than 0.3mm in diameter. It is advisable to perform the secondary winding with a double wire with a diameter of 1 mm. A small current flows through the auxiliary third winding, so a wire with a diameter of 0.2 mm will be quite enough.

Description of the elements of the output circuit

Next, we will briefly consider the output circuit of the power supply. It is, in general, completely standard, it differs from hundreds of others minimally. Only the feedback loop on the TL431 may be interesting, but we will not consider it in detail here, because there is a separate article about the feedback loop.

VD 4	Dual rectifier diode. Ideally, select with a voltage / current margin and with a minimum drop. Installed on the radiator through an insulating gasket.
R 2, C 12	Snubber circuit to facilitate the operation of the diode. It is advisable to use R 2 with a power of at least 1W.
C 13, L 2, C 14	Output filter.
C 20	Ceramic capacitor shunting the output capacitor C 14 at RF.
R 17	Pull-up resistor providing load for no-load operation. It also discharges the output capacitors through it in the event of start-up and subsequent shutdown without load.
R 16	Current limiting resistor for LED.
C 9, R 20, R 18, R 19, TLE431, PC817	Feedback loop on a precision power supply. The resistors set the operating mode of the TLE431, and the PC817 provides galvanic isolation.

What can be improved

The above circuit is usually supplied ready-made, but if you assemble the circuit yourself, nothing prevents you from improving the design a little. Both input and output circuits can be modified.

If in your outlets the ground wire has a connection to a good quality ground (and not just not connected to anything, as is often the case), you can add two additional Y-capacitors, each connected to its own mains wire and ground, between L 1 and the input capacitor. C 1. This will ensure that the potentials of the mains wires are balanced against the frame and better rejection of the common-mode component of the noise. Together with the input capacitor, two additional capacitors form the so-called. "Protective triangle".

After L 1, it is also worth adding another X-type capacitor, with the same capacity as C 1.

To protect against high-amplitude impulse voltage surges, it is advisable to connect a varistor in parallel to the input (for example, 14D471K). Also, if you have a ground, for protection in the event of an emergency on the power supply line, in which, instead of phase and zero, the phase falls on both wires, it is advisable to make a protective triangle from the same varistors.

When the voltage rises above the operating voltage, the varistor decreases its resistance and current flows through it. However, due to the relatively low speed of varistors, they are not able to bypass voltage surges with a fast rising edge, therefore, for additional filtering of fast voltage surges, it is advisable to also connect a bidirectional TVS suppressor parallel to the input (for example, 1.5KE400CA).

Again, if there is a ground wire, it is advisable to add two more Y-capacitors of small capacity to the output of the unit, connected according to the "protective triangle" scheme in parallel with C 14.

To quickly discharge the capacitors when the device is turned off, it is advisable to add a megohm resistor in parallel with the input circuits.

It is advisable to shunt each electrolytic capacitor along the RF with small-capacity ceramics located as close as possible to the capacitor terminals.

It will not be superfluous to put a limiting TVS diode on the output as well - to protect the load from possible overvoltages in case of problems with the unit. For the 24V version, for example 1.5KE24A is suitable.

Conclusion

The circuit is simple enough to repeat and stable. If you add all the components described in the "What Can Be Improved" section, you get a very reliable and low-noise power supply. are divided into two classes. The first class includes single-color LED strips. These tapes can shine with light of the same color in any part of the visible spectrum. The second class includes the so-called full-color or RGB LED strips. They are ideal for creating dynamic lighting as they can emit different colors of light. This is achieved by varying the brightness of different LEDs. Considering that LED lamps are quite new, many people have a question: "How to independently connect LED strips?" Let's start with the fact that LED strips cannot be connected to a 220V network. These light sources operate on a voltage of 12V or 24V, therefore, to connect them, you need to use a special power supply that lowers the voltage from 220V to the desired level and protects the luminaire from voltage surges. When choosing a LED power supply, you need to pay special attention to its power. It must correspond to the total power of the lamps connected to it plus 20%. This 20% will provide the necessary power reserve for the power supply.

Connecting the power supply to a 220 volt network.

Before connecting the power adapter, you must bring the electrical wiring as close as possible to the place where you plan to mount the LED strips and install an outlet there.

Many power supplies are supplied with a power cord with a plug to connect to an outlet at one end and a plug to connect to the power adapter at the other. In this case, everything is simple and nothing can be confused. You just need to insert the plug into the special socket of the adapter.

However, it often turns out that the cord is not included in the kit and you need to connect the power supply yourself. In this case, you will need a cable, at one end of which a plug is installed, and at the other end - a few millimeters of wire stripped of insulation. As a power cord, you can use a cable with a conductor cross-section of 1.5 mm, for example, VVGNG 2x1.5 or VVG 2x2.5.

The stripped ends of the cable must be inserted into the sockets of the power adapter and tightened with a screw until a noticeable resistance is reached. The connection is made to the connectors designated by the Latin letters L and N according to the following rule: the brown wire is connected to the L (phase) connector, the blue wire to the N (zero) connector. The connection diagram is shown in Figure 1.

Connecting one LED strip to the adapter.

LED strips are powered by direct current, so they must be connected with polarity taken into account. In other words, such lamps have a plus and a minus, and the connection is made plus to plus, minus to minus. It is very difficult to mix up the contacts, on each LED strip and on each power supply, all wires and contacts are marked accordingly. On the tape it is marked "+" and "-", and on the power supply - "+ V" and "-V". However, even if you mix up the contacts, nothing bad will happen. Most modern LED luminaires have fairly reliable protection and do not burn out if connected incorrectly. This means that the error can always be corrected. This property can also be used in order to select contacts by trial and error in the event that there is no terminal marking, for example, when connecting a tape through a network adapter.

However, the lack of marking on the LED strip or power supply should cause doubts about the quality of this device.

In general, the connection is quite easy, it is enough to insert each tape wire into the corresponding socket of the adapter and tighten the screw there with a screwdriver.

The cross-section of the wires with which the LED strip is connected to the adapter (regardless of the type and number of strips) must be at least 1.5 mm. At smaller cross-sections, a significant voltage drop may occur, which will reduce the brightness of the LEDs.

Connecting multiple LED strips.

When connecting several LED strips to one adapter, you must strictly follow two simple rules:

1. Each connected tape must be no more than 5 meters in length, otherwise the conductive tracks of the tape may burn out. However, each tape can consist of several segments, for example, 3 meters and 2 meters, it is only important that their total length is no more than 5 meters.
2. Each tape (5 meters) must be connected to the adapter in parallel, not in series. (See picture 3),

When connecting several LED strips, it is necessary to observe the polarity, as well as in the case of connecting one strip. In general, the connection diagram for several LED strips is shown in Figure 4.

If you want to use a shorter LED strip, then you need to cut the strip with scissors between the special soldering pads on the strip. They are spaced fairly close so you can get as long as you like.

In order to connect several LED strips into one, you need to fold them to one another in places for soldering and solder them with a soldering iron. The soldering iron should be warmed up to a temperature of no more than 260 ° C. Soldering time should not exceed 10 seconds.

Connecting one or more full color (RGB) LED strips.

As for connecting RGB LED strips, for their normal operation, you must additionally use a special three-channel controller. This is a device designed to control the brightness of the corresponding LEDs. It is it that controls which color LED will turn on, and with what brightness it will glow. VLED controllers there are also programs (up to several dozen) that, by controlling the power supply of the LEDs, allow you to achieve a variety of visual effects that increase the aesthetic value of LED strips.

The LED strip has 4 wires and the controller has 4 pins. In addition to the positive terminal and the (“+”) wire, there are three other wires / contacts, usually marked with color or letters (R for red, G for green and B for blue). RGB pins are used to transfer the signal from the three-channel controller to the LEDs of the corresponding color. The connection diagram for one or more RGB LED strips is shown in Figure 5.

Connecting several RGB LED strips is carried out according to the same rules as for connecting several single-color LED strips.

When connecting full-color LED strips, a remote control is also often used, which allows you to control the LED strip from a distance of several meters.

Finally, remember that the controller, like any electronic device, also consumes electricity. This must be taken into account when choosing a power supply unit, adding another 5W to the calculated power (taking into account the margin).

Led7 - Future Lighting

• incorrect installation and connection with errors

Here are the main three rules and mistakes to look out for first.

1 rule

The LED strip is connected in parallel, in lengths of no more than 5 meters each.

It is even sold in coils of this size. What if you need to connect 10 or 15m? It would seem that I connected the end of the first piece with the beginning of the second and you're done. However, such a connection is prohibited. Why is it so accepted?

Because five meters is the estimated length that the current-carrying tracks of the tape can withstand. With a longer length, the load will exceed the permissible one and the tape will surely fail. In addition, irregularity of the glow will be observed. At the beginning of the strip, the LEDs will shine brightly, and at the end they will be much dimmer.

This is how the scheme of parallel connection of LED strips with a length exceeding the permissible one will look like:

In this case, the tape can be connected both from two sides, and from one. Connecting on both sides reduces the load on the current paths, and also helps to avoid uneven glow at the beginning and end of the tape.

This is especially important on a powerful tape - over 9.6W / meter. This is exactly how it is advised to connect professionals who have been installing LED products for many years. The only fat minus is that you have to drag additional wires along the entire lighting.

2 rule

The LED strip must be mounted on an aluminum profile, which acts as a heat sink.

During operation, the tape heats up, and this temperature negatively affects the LEDs themselves. They simply overheat and begin to lose brightness, gradually degrading and decaying.

Thus, a tape that could have worked quietly for 5-10 years will burn out without a profile in a year, or maybe even earlier. Therefore, the use of an aluminum profile in LED backlighting is mandatory.

The only tape where you can do without it is SMD 3528. It is low-power, only 4.8W per 1m and is not so demanding on the heat sink.

Especially in need of heat dissipation are tapes filled with silicone on top. In them, heat transfer occurs only through the substrate, from below. And this is sometimes not enough. If you still stick it on some plastic or wood, then there will be no cooling at all.

3 rule

The correct choice of power supply is a guarantee of long-term and safe operation of the entire backlight.

The power supply should be 30% more powerful than the LED strip.

Only then will it work fine. If you pick it up end-to-end, exactly according to the power of all LEDs, then the unit will constantly work at its limit. Naturally, such work will affect the duration of operation. Therefore, always give him a supply.

Connecting LED strip

To mount lighting using LED strip, you will need:

Installation of 220V power supply

If you have not completed electrical installation work, then you must first connect the 220V voltage to the tape connection point. To do this, cut the wall, or lay the cable channel and pull the three-core VVGng-Ls 3 * 1.5 cable along it. Lead it directly to the junction box where the power supply of the LED strip will be connected.

An existing junction box can be used where the main lighting is connected. The main thing is that the place allows you to freely connect additional wires and terminal blocks.

It is advisable to install the switch on the LED strip on the 220 Volt wires, and not in front of the tape on the outgoing 12-24V. In this case, the unit will not work continuously. Moreover, it is contraindicated for pulse units to work without load. In addition, the level of security will be higher.

Check beforehand and do not confuse phase, zero and ground. Most often, zero is blue, the grounding conductor is yellow-green, and the phase conductor is of any other color.
But you cannot trust only the color coding! More details on how to distinguish zero and phase without errors can be found in the article "How to determine phase and zero in electrical wiring".

Next, you need to lay a cable from this junction box in a strobe, corrugated sleeve or in a cable channel to the future installation site of the power supply. To place it, mount a convenient shelf. It can be made from pieces of plywood or drywall. Place a dimmer next to it.

Connecting the power supply

After extending the cable to the unit, you can proceed directly to connecting the wires.

• connect the phase wire to the L connector

• blue core - zero, to terminal N

• yellow-green - to the terminal marked as Pe or ground icon

Dimmer connection

Now you need to connect the dimmer. Here use a flexible installation wire PUGV 1.5mm2 of different colors. For example black (for negative contacts) and red (for positive contacts).

• measure and cut the required wire size

• clean the ends and crimp them with NSHVI tips

First of all, connect the ends from the side of the power supply. Connect the negative wire (black) to the terminal marked –V... Positive wire (red) with terminal marked as + V.

Both wires must be connected to the dimmer from the side Power IN(input power). Connect the red wire on the dimmer to the positive terminal DC +, and the other wire to the terminal minus DC-

Further, there is again the installation work on the laying of the wire. Stretch it in a corrugation from the dimmer to the point of connection to the LED strip. Use the same PGV. If the total length of the LED strip and backlight exceeds more than 5 meters, the strips are connected in parallel. Moreover, each of them is supplied with a separate power supply.

Proceed to connect the wires to the dimmer terminals. They are usually labeled and labeled Output Led. For reliable contact, it is better to crimp the stripped ends of the cores with tips.

Installation and soldering of wires on LED strip

You can proceed to the installation of the tape itself. To do this, you need to measure it and cut it into the desired pieces. This can be done not anywhere, but only where the dotted line or scissors are drawn.

After cutting, the wires can be soldered to the special contacts on the tape. For the same purposes, as well as for connecting individual pieces of tape to each other, connectors can also be used.

Look for the negative contact and connect the black wires there. Another wire, red, goes to the plus contact, respectively. Do not heat the soldering iron to the maximum, otherwise you will easily burn the substrate. Recommended soldering time - up to 10 sec.

Opposite ends are also cleaned and NSHVI tips are installed on them.

Remember again that for better cooling, you only need to lay the LED strip on an aluminum profile. It is mounted in advance.

After all these works, all the cores of the wires are brought out to one place and connected to the corresponding supply wires, observing the phasing (positive and negative contacts).

The connection is best done using the Wago terminals.