For painting large surfaces it is convenient to use the so-called "Swedish" paint. We do not mean buying Swedish paint. This is just the name of a simple paint that can be prepared at home.

Swedish paint is not as beautiful on the surface as oil or enamel paint, but it is cheaper and extremely easy to work with. Surfaces are coated with Swedish paint only once. Surfaces do not require preliminary preparation, I counted cleaning from dust, old paint, mold, etc. Swedish paint protects wood from decay and mold, so to speak, preserves the wood surface with the help of compounds in the mixture (especially iron vitriol). The recipes for Swedish paint are very diverse, but the main substances are water, salt, rye flour, drying oil and pigment.

The composition of Swedish paint can be as follows: (to prepare 10 liters of paint)
Rye flour 800 g
Iron vitriol 400 g
Salt 250 g
Drying oil 300 g (500 g)
Pigment 300-600 g
Water (added to the mixture to a volume of 10 liters, i.e. approximately 6 liters)
For painting roofs, 500 g of drying oil is taken for 10 liters of the mixture.

Swedish paint is usually prepared in a large cauldron. Salts (ferrous sulfate, table salt) dissolve in boiling water. In another dish, rye flour is diluted in water to a gruel and poured into a kettle in which a salt solution is cooked. The resulting mixture is cooked for half an hour. Then linseed oil is added and the mixture is vigorously stirred until an emulsion is formed. Finally, the pigment pre-mixed in hot water is added until the desired tone is achieved. The resulting mixture is well mixed again and, if necessary, diluted with water to the required consistency. For the preparation of Swedish paint, it is desirable to use alkali-resistant iron-containing pigments - red lead, mummy, ocher, umber, etc. Usually Swedish paint is prepared in red, brown or yellow tones.

Addition
If the wood surface has a high roughness, then the flour content can be increased.
Flour in the paint smooths out the roughness of the wood, the paint adheres better to a rough surface.
Drying oils in the recipe 300 g - for fences, for roofs - 500 g.

(Iron oxide and other pigments can be bought from us -

Swedish paint is applied to the surface with a paint brush or a fly brush. The mixture is applied evenly over the entire surface with wide strokes and rubbed in so that the pores and cracks on the surface of the wood are filled. In this case, care must be taken to ensure that no unpainted areas remain, since if such areas are painted later, the surface will not be even. You need to paint in cloudy calm weather; in this case, the mixture dries slowly and adheres well to the painted surface.
It is advisable to cover farm buildings, shingle roofs, etc. with Swedish paint. For decoration of residential buildings, Swedish paint is used as the cheapest one when covering walls. Swedish paint is unsuitable for painting windows and doors; only unplaned boards are painted with it.

Falun red (Falun paint, Swede. Falu rödfärg) Is a Swedish dark red paint well known for its use in exterior painting of wooden houses and outbuildings in Scandinavia. It got its name from a copper mine located in the city

Hello to the readers From-tree-do-it-yourself!

Let's look at some of the options for processing wood with natural substances, which can be very useful in the absence of special tools.

Linseed oil

Linseed oil treatment is a classic method for treating wood types such as birch in order to achieve a durable, durable and moisture resistant surface. The options are:

1. Crude linseed oil, undiluted oil varnish.

Application example: the handle of a knife (or other product) should be placed in linseed oil for several days.

To do this, the knife can be placed in a jar with a screw-on lid with a thin slot for the blade, which, after placing the knife in it, must be hermetically sealed.

When the wood of the cuttings is soaked through and through, it must be wiped off with a smooth dry rag. After that, let it dry completely for several weeks. When the oil evaporates, the surface is oxidized and plimerized, which, after some time, becomes strong and elastic.

2. Linseed oil, half diluted with turpentine.
A liquid made from flaxseed oil of real natural turpentine (do not use substitutes!) In a 1 to 1 ratio.

Turpentine has long been called

resinous discharge from wounds inflicted on trees. Now this substance is usually called resin.

By using turpentine, the drying time of the wood and the oxidation of the oil are shortened.
Application: (see 1). Drying time is 1-2 weeks.

3. Linseed oil with tar.

The addition of 50% tar gives the wood a reddish-brown tint. (to apply see 1)
Use only natural tar, after use wipe off the remaining oil thoroughly with a soft and smooth cloth.

WARNING: When using linseed oil, there is a danger of spontaneous combustion of rags soaked in linseed solution. Therefore, dispose of with extreme caution so as not to cause a fire!

Wooden products can be waxed, here is one of the varnish recipes:

wax - 100 parts
rosin - 25 parts
turpentine 50 parts (parts are indicated by weight).

Grind and melt rosin and wax, stir, then remove from heat and pour in turpentine, mix thoroughly. Coating recipes are different and here you can and should try different compositions. Another way of such a folk varnish is rosin, dissolved in turpentine.

Ancient recipes for cheap and durable paints for wood surfaces

Curd-lime

Equal amounts of fresh cottage cheese and slaked lime are thoroughly kneaded. A white, fast drying liquid is formed.
It must be used on the same day, because it quickly deteriorates.

Ocher and some other paints can be mixed with this composition. In this case, it is necessary to use as little water as possible, since it negatively affects the strength.

The paint dries very quickly and does not leave the slightest odor. Therefore it is possible to cover the surface in two layers in one day.

To give the color greater durability, after applying two layers, it is polished with pieces of rough cloth.

Starch painting

From 10 parts by weight of wheat starch, poured with cold water, a composition is obtained that resembles thick sour cream in consistency.

Stirring constantly, add boiling water until a composition of the desired density is formed. For greater strength, 1 part alum or borax can be added to the warm paste.

To prepare the paint, zinc white and any colored paint, vegetable or mineral, are added to the still hot paste.

Then zinc chloride is dissolved in water and a small amount of tartaric acid is added to it.

The first mixture is mixed with this solution before use. The amount of material and proportions do not matter much. The paint is applied in the usual way. It is low-combustible, not afraid of damp and cold water, but it can be washed off with hot water and soap.

Potato paint

They take 1 kilogram of potatoes and boil it. Peel while still hot and cover with 4 large mugs of water. After that, it is necessary to knead everything into porridge and rub it through a sieve so that there are no lumps left. Add 1.5 kilograms of powder chalk, which is previously diluted in 4 cups of water. As a result, you will get about 8 mugs of grayish, durable, well-hiding and very cheap paint.

All of these paints have been tried and tested and give excellent results.

Processing of wood and other products

1. To prevent the wooden product from cracking and crumbling into pieces, it was boiled for 1-2 hours in a solution of ash alkali.
After that, they dried, and, if required, continued processing of thinner parts.

Ash alkali- This is an ancient recipe of our ancestors, used both for washing fabrics and for processing wood products.

Alkali is made simply - firewood is burned (best of all, birch) to a state of white ash (ash). Ashes (ash) are filled with water, into which, during soaking, all alkaline groups of substances pass. After that, the sediment can be used as fertilizer for the soil (it is not dangerous for plants, since it does not contain "soap"), and water can be used for washing or for processing wood products.

2. In a strong broth of crushed oak bark, our ancestors either boiled (a couple of hours) or soaked (a day) products not only from wood, but also all kinds of wicker products - from bast, flax, hemp, cane ... Tannins strengthened the product so much that, for example, ropes and ropes increased their strength by an order of magnitude.

Please rate this post:

Once upon a time, in the mid-80s, my father and brother and I were building a country house. In those days withthe material was tight, so the house was built from what was found. The house turned out to be a two-story frame-panel board with an attic on a high strip foundation. Moreover, between the shields knocked together from boards from various boxes, we tamped ordinary earth taken out during the construction of the foundation and the cellar under the floor. Later the house was sheathed with sheet slate.

And when the question arose about painting a wooden attic and a veranda, I came across an excellent Soviet magazine "Do it yourself", which described a method of making paint from natural ingredients. My father - "golden hands", naturally decided to try this remedy. The ingredients were bought from nearby shops and soon the house was painted with a "Finnish composition". A green tint has been added for the color. For more than seven years we did not touch or paint anything on the wooden veranda, until my father wanted to expand it (our family grew, grandchildren were born).

It turned out that it was not so easy to disassemble the old boards. Thanks to the Finnish composition, the tree became stronger, not a single woodcutter touched it, and the nails were firmly stuck in the fibers of the tree, only the rusty caps flew off.

After the expansion of the veranda, the walls were again painted with this composition. Until now, in the summer, father and mother move to this house and live there until the end of the summer season, growing a wonderful harvest of vegetables and fruits.

Painting wooden walls

Painting the exterior walls of a wooden house is a problem that the owner of a painted wooden house faces every 5 to 7 years. Many people prefer to paint the walls with oil paints. But they do not realize that by doing so they shorten the life of the house. It turns out that under a layer of oil paint at constant humidity, microorganisms develop that destroy wood. In addition, a house painted with oil paint almost does not "breathe", stagnant odors appear in it, etc.

Currently, two very cheap paints are known: Swedish and Finnish compositions, which are devoid of the disadvantages of oil paints and even have some advantages.

The main advantages of Swedish and Finnish compositions over oil paints:

One and a half times more durable;

Several times cheaper;

After painting, the house "breathes", and the paint does not allow moisture to pass through.

When re-painting a house with these compounds, preparatory operations are not required (compared to oil paint): cleaning the old paint, priming, etc. Before re-painting the walls with Swedish or Finnish composition, you need to cover a bit with a hard broom.

Swedish and Finnish compositions have one removable drawback; they can be painted on dry old wood that does not have traces of oil paint.

Freshly planed wood must be degummed before painting. These issues will be discussed below.

Swedish squad:

flour (rye or wheat) - 1160 g;

iron vitriol - 520 g;

table salt - 520 g;

lime pigment (dry *) –520g;

natural drying oil - 480 g;

water - about 9 liters.

A paste is prepared from flour and 6 liters of water. They do it like this. Pour the flour with a little cold water and knead. The resulting dough is diluted with cold water to the consistency of liquid sour cream. Then, with vigorous stirring, add the remaining water (boiling water) with a continuous thin stream. The paste is filtered and put on fire. Salt and vitriol are poured into the hot paste and dissolve them with stirring. Then pigment (modern color) is added to the hot solution and everything is thoroughly mixed.

Linseed oil is poured into the solution in a thin stream and stirred vigorously again. Then add the remaining (3 l) hot water, diluting the composition to a paint consistency.

Finnish squad:

flour - 720 g;

iron vitriol - 1560 g;

table salt - 360 g;

lime pigment - 1560 g;

water - about 9 liters.

Prepare both compositions in an enamel bowl for 1 - 1.5 hours of work. The thickened composition can be diluted to paint thickness with hot water, but at the same time its strength decreases.

Usually, the finished composition is wrapped so that it is warm during the entire operation time. Suitable plastic jars are taken as working utensils, where the required amount is poured. Frequent cut bottles of car oil, tasol, etc. are best suited for this.

Both compositions are applied to wood surfaces with a brush or roller in two passes. Coloring is done in the afternoon when the sun goes down. Consumption of the composition - 250 - 300 g per 1 sq. m.

They are painted without primer.

Old oil paint is removed using all kinds of washes, both standard (SD, AFT-1, SP.-7) and homemade ones.

The simplest wash is a mixture of quicklime - 1.3 kg and potash - 0.45 kg, mixed in water until creamy.

This liquid mixture is applied to the old paintwork and left for 1.5 - 2 hours. Then the mixture is washed off. In this case, the old paintwork can be easily removed.

Another recipe for effective washing is as follows: lime dough - 0.5 kg, sifted chalk - 0.5 kg, caustic soda (caustic soda) 25% solution - is added to form a liquid paste.

The surface to be treated is covered with a paste and left for 1 - 1.5 hours. Then the paste, together with the old grease, is washed with a 1% solution of acid (hydrochloric, acetic, citric, etc.). Then it is washed with water. Deresinization of freshly planed wood is to remove from the surface of the wood all resinous substances that prevent adhesion (sticking) of paints. Before painting with oil paints, demineralization is not necessary, since oil paints adhere to such surfaces due to the homogeneity of the resin of wood and drying oil, on which oil paints are prepared.

Ash lye is an ancient recipe of our ancestors, used both for washing textiles and for processing wood products. It is easy to make alkali - firewood is burned (I read that birch is best of all) to the state of white ash (ash).

Ashes (ash) are filled with water, into which, during soaking, all alkaline groups of substances pass. After that, the sediment can be used as fertilizer for the soil (it is not dangerous for plants, since it does not contain "soap"), and water can be used for washing or for processing wood products.

2. In a strong broth of crushed oak bark, our ancestors either boiled (I don't remember exactly the time - it seems like a couple of hours), or soaked (here I remember the time - a day) products not only made of wood, but also all kinds of wicker products - from bast, flax, hemp, cane (I don't remember the whole list).

Tannins strengthened the product so much that, for example, ropes and ropes, increased their strength by an order of magnitude.

In any home, paint is a must. Especially with the onset, after a long winter, any owner has a lot of work associated precisely with painting various household items. But what if you have to paint a lot? You can't buy a lot of purchased paint. The answer to this question will be this article. It contains two cooking methods - the so-called Swedish and Finnish.

So.

What are both Swedish and Finnish homemade paints used for?

Firstly, they are well suited for painting external wooden ones precisely because in this case it is undesirable to use oil paints, and even more so synthetic ones. When wood is coated with oil paint, they do not have the ability to "breathe", which will lead to undesirable consequences.

In addition, under a layer of old paint, microorganisms that destroy wood may well multiply. Why do they paint with oil - you ask? Yes, because it - and protects the house from the effects of precipitation.

Secondly: Swedish and Finnish paints also do not allow moisture to pass through themselves, but at the same time make it possible to breathe without clogging the pores of the wood.

Thirdly, homemade paints are not only much cheaper, but also more durable.
Only one condition must be strictly observed: it is necessary only for dry wood, on which there are no traces of oil paint, and freshly planed wood must be de-resinated.
You can remove the resin from the wood with a 5-10% solution of soda ash heated to a temperature of 40-60 degrees. Wipe the surface of the wood 2-3 times with a solution, and then rinse with warm water.

What if the boards are already painted with oil paint?

It is necessary to stir in water until a creamy state of 1.3 kg of quicklime and 0.45 kg of potash, apply the mixture to the old paintwork, leave for 1.5-2 hours and rinse.

There is another recipe: 0.5 kg of lime dough, 0.5 kg of sifted chalk, dilute in a 25% solution of caustic soda (caustic soda) to a liquid paste and cover the surface to be treated for an hour and a half. Rinse off with 1% acid solution (hydrochloric, citric, acetic is suitable), and then with water.

Now how to prepare the paint.

Both Swedish and Finnish compositions are the same in terms of cooking technology, differ only in the components and their quantity.

For Swedish paint take:
flour -1160 g,
iron sulfate - 520,
table salt - 520,
lime pigment (dry) - 520,
natural drying oil - 480 g
water - about 9 liters.

To prepare the Finnish paint composition:
flour - 720 g,
iron sulfate - 1560,
table salt - 360,
dry lime pigment - 1560 g,
water - about 9 liters.

First, a paste is prepared from flour and 6 liters of water.

The flour is kneaded in a small amount of cold water, breaking all the lumps, diluted with water to make it like sour cream, and boiled with boiling water, stirring constantly. Boiling water is the remaining water from 6 liters. It is worth strain the paste and put on fire, and then add salt, vitriol, pigment, stirring all the time. At the end, pour in the drying oil in a thin stream, and then add the remaining 9 liters of water (hot), bringing the mass to a painterly density.

You need to paint with warm paint and preferably in the afternoon. You can use both a brush and a roller - whichever is more convenient. The main thing is not to let the paint cool down, so as not to thicken, because, heated and diluted again, it loses some strength. Enamel dishes - for cooking, plastic - for small portions already during painting.

Lime pigments of various colors are commercially available, they are also called alkali resistant.

Here is some advice on how to test a pigment for alkali-resistance, which, in particular, is recommended to do especially with green pigments.

To do this, 5-6 g of fluff lime is diluted in 0.5 liters of water. In another container, 5-6 g of chalk is also diluted in 0.5 liters of water. Add 2-3 g of the tested pigment to both solutions, mix thoroughly and leave for two or three days. After a lapse of time, the colors in both cans are compared: if they are the same, then this pigment is stable and suitable for use in a Swedish or Finnish mixture.

I think that in the spring many people are concerned about the high cost of paints. And you need to paint fences, gazebos, wooden terraces. So why not use the recipes above and switch to homemade, very cheap and environmentally friendly paints?

Better follow the wise experience of the Finns and prepare a special wood coating compound.

Take 720 g of rye flour, 1560 g of ferrous sulfate, 360 g of table salt, 1560 g of dry lime pigment, 9 liters of water.

When preparing the solution, it is important to follow the technology.

The flour is added to 6 liters of cold water and stirred until a homogeneous mass of the consistency of thick sour cream is obtained. The paste is filtered and put on fire.
Stir constantly, add salt, then iron vitriol and dry lime pigment.
The remaining 3 liters of water are boiled and added to the resulting composition.

The consumption of this "paint" is 300 g / sq. m.
Apply to wood twice. If your building or fence was previously painted with oil paint, it will have to be completely cleaned off.
After such painting, your building will stand without external repairs for 20 years! The Finnish wood coating composition, in contrast to oil paint, is more durable and breathable.

Swedish recipe.

To protect the wood, it is enough to paint the house once. The wood will be reliably protected, and paint debris will not irritate you. True, the "color" will fade with time, but that's another story. Let's make a reservation right away: you can paint with such a composition only clean wood, that is, one that has not been painted before, or plaster. No preprocessing is required.

Here is the squad from Sweden. Only, please, no liberties with figures. Do exactly what it says.
So: rye flour - 580-600 g, table salt - 250-260 g, drying oil - 240-250 g, iron vitriol - 250-260 g, red lead - 250-260 g, water - 4.5 liters.

Dry pigments can be used to create different shades. The intrinsic color of the composition will be yellowish.

The cooking technology is simple and accessible to everyone.

Pour rye flour with 3 liters of water.
Put on low heat.
While stirring, prepare the paste, make sure that there are no lumps.
When the paste forms a homogeneous mass, without removing from the heat, add salt and vitriol and continue to boil until the crystals are completely dissolved. Then add red lead and knead the mass until completely homogeneous.
Finally, pour in the drying oil, mix again and bring to working volume (i.e. add another 1.5 liters of water), again without removing it from the heat. The prepared solution is used for coloring immediately, lukewarm.
After a while, it will begin to thicken, then you will have to dilute it with warm water, which, in general, is undesirable, because when the solution “liquefies” the paint layer will turn out to be less durable.

It is more convenient to cover wooden surfaces with this solution with a brush, and plaster with a roller. Consumption of "Swedish" paint is about 250 g per square meter.

If you need to achieve some original color of Finnish paint, you can add various inorganic pigments to the composition: finely grated red brick, evaporated decoctions of cornflower, nut bark, sunflower seeds, etc.

I cooked one batch of Finnish paint ... it seemed to work out ... it even looks like paint ... I painted one experimental section of the fence and let it stand for about 3 months (in summer in direct sunlight), the result upset me ... .. who came across tell me what could be the reason.

Rye or wheat flour - 1160 g, iron vitriol - 520 g, table salt - 520 g, dry lime pigment - 520 g, natural drying oil - 480 g, water - 9 liters.

A paste is prepared from flour and 6 liters of water: the flour is poured with a small amount of cold water and kneaded; the resulting "dough" is diluted with cold water to the consistency of sour cream.
The water remaining from 6 liters is boiled and poured into the "sour cream" in a thin stream with continuous stirring. The resulting paste is filtered and put on fire.
Salt, vitriol are poured into a hot solution and mixed. Then add a coloring pigment and mix thoroughly again.
Then, stirring vigorously, pour the drying oil in a thin stream. At the end, add the remaining 3 liters of hot water, bringing the composition to a paint consistency.
The paint is applied to the wooden surface with a paint or terry brush once - evenly, with wide strokes, while rubbing in to fill all the pores and cracks.
Unpainted areas are not left, since with later painting it will no longer be possible to make a flat surface.

Swedish paint, as rather cheap, is most often used for covering outbuildings, shingle roofs, sometimes walls of residential buildings. It is unsuitable for windows and doors, since only non-planed boards are painted with it.

Finnish and second Swedish colors are indicated in the book "The DIY Master's Encyclopedia. 5000 Helpful Tips".

The simplest wash is a mixture of quicklime - 1.3 kg and potash - 0.45 kg, mixed in water until creamy. This liquid mixture is applied to the old paintwork and left for 1.5-2.0 hours. Then the mixture is washed off. In this case, the old paintwork can be easily removed.

Another recipe for effective washing is as follows: lime dough 0.5 kg, sifted chalk - 0.5 kg, caustic soda (caustic soda) - a 25% solution is added to form a liquid paste.

The surface to be treated is covered with a paste and left for 1.0-1.5 hours. Then the paste, together with the old paint, is washed off with a 1 solution of acid (hydrochloric, acetic, citric, etc.). Then it is washed with water.

The main advantages of chloroxide paint: low cost, strength and adhesion, durability. At the same time, it allows air to pass through and does not allow water to pass through.

The composition of the chloroxide paint (in vol. Parts - volumetric parts):
lime-fluff - 3;
lime pigment (dry) - 0.75;
calcium chloride (dry) - 0.35;
water - 8.

Lime-fluff and a pigment of the required color are poured into a polyethylene container. The mixture is thoroughly mixed and poured with cold water. The solution is stirred and filtered through a double nylon stocking. Add calcium chloride and, again stirring, dissolve it completely. The latter is introduced into the solution, dissolved in a small amount of water, ordinary laundry soap. Take 20-30 g of soap on a bucket of paint (12 l). The paint is ready.
The walls and basement are painted (using a spray gun, brushes, rollers) in two passes. It is advisable to paint the walls and basement in the evening and in cloudy (but not rainy) weather.

The brick base, painted with chloroxide paint of a bright brick color, looks beautiful, in which the seams are cut with chloroxide paint without pigment, i.e. white.

The following calcareous (also called alkali-resistant) pigments are commercially available:
synthetic cinnabar - red,
red lead iron - red-brown,
synthetic mummy - red-brown,
burnt ocher - brown
ocher - yellow
chromium oxide - green
natural mummy - brown,
brown mars is brown.

Series of messages "