Finishing the terrace in a private house (photo)

The veranda is a small room attached to the house. It can be open or glazed (closed). It is used both for agricultural purposes and for recreation. How to insulate a veranda for winter living from the inside with your own hands and what materials are best to choose for these purposes? You will learn the answers to these questions later.

What to look for when insulating a veranda from the inside?

Let's decide how to properly insulate it will allow us to make a full-fledged living space out of it for the winter. You can use it absolutely at any time of the year. Before starting work, it is necessary to think over absolutely all the nuances: the option of insulation, material for thermal insulation, places for installing insulation. In this case, it is possible to lay insulation from the inside and outside.

Warming of a veranda in a wooden house is possible subject to the following conditions:

• Installation is only possible with good ventilation.
• In cool weather, the heating in the veranda should always be on.
• Additional wall insulation cannot exceed a thickness of 55 mm.

Overview of materials used for internal insulation

Now on the construction market there are many different materials for thermal insulation of premises. They differ in performance and cost. So, let's figure out how to insulate the veranda from the inside?

• Polyfoam is the most popular type of insulation in many areas of construction. It is distinguished by its low weight, good rigidity, stable performance even after long-term use, ease of installation and the ability to install, both with and without a frame. The disadvantages of foam include its high fire hazard and attractiveness to rodents. This is a significant disadvantage for warming a veranda in a private house.
  

  When using foam, there is no need to build another waterproofing layer.

  The scheme of insulating the walls of the veranda with foam

• Penofol is recommended by many experts. This is a modern and high-quality thermal insulation material, it can be used in conjunction with other types of insulation or without them. Penofol is ideal for insulating all buildings in a country house. It has a low level of vapor permeability. The material is environmentally friendly. It is possible to mount it yourself without any problems.
  Floor insulation with penofol
• Another popular insulation is mineral wool. It can also be used to insulate any buildings in the private sector. It is possible to use mineral wool for premises intended for winter use. To mount a mineral wool thermal insulation layer, you will need to equip the frame. Such material will lose its density four to five years after installation, and this will inevitably lead to a loss of thermal insulation properties.
  
• Basalt wool is analogous to mineral wool. It also gradually loses its thermal insulation properties. It differs from mineral wool in greater safety from an environmental point of view.
• Expanded polystyrene combines all the advantages of foam insulation at once. It has good durability and is easy to work with. Even a beginner in this business can equip a thermal insulation layer with expanded polystyrene. However, this material has a high sound transmission.
  
  

  Polystyrene foam belongs to the category of non-combustible materials.

• Glass wool surpasses all of the above materials in strength and resilience. It can be purchased as a roll. It is quite simple to work with it, but at the same time it is imperative to use means to protect hands, eyes and face, as well as respiratory organs. Therefore, along with glass wool, you will need to purchase protective goggles and a respirator. Glass wool has little strength, so it can sag heavily over time. Such material is absolutely fireproof.
  

We insulate a closed veranda with our own hands

In this block, we will discuss how to properly insulate the veranda from the inside with our own hands. Consider the features of wall insulation, ceiling, roof, floor, doors and windows. Before starting work, you will need to purchase all materials and tools, seal windows and doors.

Preparatory work before insulation

There are many ways to insulate a veranda with your own hands. We will tell you about the most popular methods among people. The list of mandatory tools includes: stapler, construction knife, paint roller, hacksaw, paint brushes, screwdriver. In addition to the selected thermal insulation material, you will also need to buy: door seal, mounting foam, vapor barrier film, self-tapping screws, gypsum, wooden beams.

With the preparatory work completed, it's time to turn the cold veranda into a warm living room.

Wall insulation on the veranda

It is worth starting the insulation of the walls on the veranda with the installation of the frame (metal or wooden). The wooden frame is made of strips and bars, and the metal frame is made of a galvanized profile. The latter is most suitable for insulating drywall structures. The frame installation technology is the same when using the materials listed above and looks like this (example of installing a wooden frame).

1. To install the frame, you need to install the upper and lower wooden blocks, filling in the distance between them using intermediate blocks. They are mounted only horizontally.
   
2. Before mounting on the wall, the timber must be treated with an antiseptic to protect it from rot and mold. Use mineral wool.
   
3. Fastening the frame to the walls of the veranda can be carried out using self-tapping screws, a puncher and a screwdriver. In this case, the method of fastening the timber directly depends on the material of the walls.
   
   
4. Control the horizontal installation of the timber using a building level. The width of the frame cells will always correspond to the dimensions of the insulation boards. In case of dense packing, you can reduce the mesh spacing by 3 mm. During the installation of the frame, there should be no cracks and gaps. Stack insulation for the veranda entirely, removing all unnecessary only after installation. When the thermal insulation layer is installed in the crate, it will be necessary to overlap the vapor barrier film to the frame beams.
   
5. At the joints of the film, you need to stick metallized tape. The procedure will protect the thermal insulation layer from moisture.
   

   To improve the quality of insulation, you can install a foam foam gasket between the wall and the heat-insulating layer.

   

6. The final stage will be the installation of the frame sheathing, it will protect the inner layer and perform an aesthetic function. For these purposes, it is possible to use wooden lining, MDF panels or PVC panels.
   

Insulation of the ceiling and roof

Internal insulation of the veranda involves the obligatory laying of a heat-insulating layer on the ceiling. The principle of carrying out the work practically does not differ from the methodology of wall insulation. The main difficulty is that all installation work must be carried out in a canopy. It is almost impossible to do all this alone.

First, remove the ceiling covering and apply a waterproofing film to the rough surface of the ceiling. Next, you need to build a frame from a bar according to the same principle as for walls. An insulating layer can be made in the gaps between the beams. The top is covered with a vapor barrier film. Finishing can be done using drywall or lining.

Most of the heat escapes through the roof. To reduce heat loss, high-quality insulation is required. This can be done from the outside only at the stage of construction work. Roof work from the inside is only possible through the ceiling.

Warming the floor on the veranda

How and with what to insulate the floor on the veranda? One of the most popular plank floor installation schemes is as follows.

1. Cover the floor with expanded clay or fine gravel.
2. Pour a small layer of sand on top and tamp it.
3. Next, make a reinforcing mesh with a cross-section according to your project.
4. A concrete layer with a thickness according to the project is poured from above.
5. After the floor has dried, lay a waterproofing layer, for example roofing felt.
6. On top of the roofing material, you need to lay wooden logs soaked with antiseptics.
7. A heat-insulating layer must be drawn between the lags.
8. After warming the floor on the veranda in a wooden house, you should proceed to laying the finishing coating.

Insulation of windows and doors

The best option is to install PVC double-glazed windows. If it is not possible to do this, then you can start insulating the existing wooden frames.

Preparatory work should be carried out in the following order:

You also need to insulate the door frame so that cold air does not pass through the joints to the veranda. Do this with batting: remove from the hinges and fill slightly protruding rollers from above and below, and then beat tightly, securing with a stapler or small nails.

Heating options for a closed veranda in winter

Having answered the question of how to make a warm veranda with our own hands, let's consider the most popular and affordable options for heating a closed veranda in winter.

Warming a summer veranda - does it make sense?

To make a full-fledged room out of a summer veranda, suitable for living in winter, you will need to thoroughly insulate the veranda with your own hands from the inside and outside. The only “viable” option is to make a frame or. But then you will have to spend a certain amount of money: first, for the installation of double-glazed windows, and then for insulation with the help of heat-insulating materials.

When insulating a summer veranda, it should be borne in mind that the installation of a heat-insulating layer leads to a shift in the dew point. This is the reason for the formation of fungus, mold. Therefore, it will be necessary to lay a waterproofing and vapor barrier layer.

In warm weather, a veranda or terrace is a natural place for friendships, bachelor parties or family teas. Timely warming of the veranda will expand such communication for the whole year, while maintaining warm comfort in the room in spite of winds and blizzards.

Choosing a material for insulation

This procedure can be performed independently; it does not require any special repair qualifications. In addition, a high-quality insulated veranda is protected from the appearance of mold, fungi and black spots, which lead to warping of the wood and simply spoil the appearance of the room. Even before the start of thermal insulation work, you need to make sure that the windows and doors in our extension do their job well - they do not have cracks, cracks in the window panes, they fit tightly to the frame, etc. If frosty drafts are walking on the veranda, no insulation will help her.

The easiest and cheapest way to buy sheets of foam, but they have a significant thickness (up to 12 cm), thereby significantly narrowing the insulated room. In addition, it is difficult to cut polystyrene precisely due to its thickness; it will be necessary to provide for a large margin for losses during cutting. Mineral wool insulation in rolls retains heat better and is much easier to install. You can buy premium materials for thermal insulation like Insulate, Isover or Ursa, with an outer layer of foil or with double-sided metallization. They retain heat best of all, but the price of such insulation will be more than tangible.

In conditions of severe frosts and large rooms, a combined version of insulation is used - first roll insulation is mounted on the wall, then sheet polystyrene. The layered construction retains heat well, even with a large veranda.

Yes, any isolation should be decorated outside! Not only for aesthetic reasons, but also for the sake of long-term use. Modern thermal insulation materials are not resistant to mechanical stress (however, the old ones cannot be called durable either). So you need to stock up on plywood, clapboard or wall panels for finishing the walls and ceiling of the insulated veranda. But with the floor, options are possible (see below)

Insulation of the veranda from the inside - where to start?

With a sound estimate of the total amount of work and the required costs. With planning your own time and effort - unfinished renovation is worse than a premise in its original, "pre-renovated" state. After measuring the surface of the floor, walls and ceiling, you need to choose your own version of insulation (foam, rolls of thermal insulation, mineral wool, a combination of these materials) and immediately buy them in the required quantity.

In addition, you will need consumables - bars and slats of various sections, nails, moisture-resistant film, glue, polyurethane foam, etc. Buying everything you need in advance will help you plan your expenses wisely and not be distracted by trips to hardware stores instead of work.

Insulation sequence - moving from bottom to top

Insulation of living quarters starts from the floor. Yes, the cold always comes from below, without "sex" work, there is no point in getting down to the walls. At a minimum, you need to make sure that the floor retains heat well - perhaps a living room was planned on the site of the veranda, and heat-saving functions were laid down at the stage of capital construction. Which is rare. So the typical sequence of our repair actions is as follows:

The sequence of thermal insulation of the veranda - a step-by-step diagram

Step 1: insulate the floor

If the floorboards are good and strong, you can try to remove them, install our thermal insulation and reassemble the floor - but such insulation of the veranda from the inside with your own hands will require solid carpentry skills.

It is easier to lay the insulating layer directly on the floor, subject to the mechanical strength of the base. The cracks in the floor are preliminarily covered with epoxy resin or a mixture of sawdust with PVA glue - then, when solidified, even the "musical" floorboards will become a monolith. But! Epoxy hardens quickly, almost instantly, so you need to work with it confidently and quickly. A mixture of PVA glue with small sawdust hardens for a long time, almost a day. This gives time to calmly process all the cracks, but the very thermal insulation of the floor is postponed the next day.

The base is ready and strong - we lay a roll of moisture-resistant insulation on the floor and shoot it with a stapler in increments of no more than 10-15 cm (the thicker the insulation, the more often the fasteners). We punch in the corners with nails with wide flat caps, carefully glue the seams with tape. Lay linoleum or laminate on top. The direction of the flooring of the topcoat must necessarily be perpendicular to the insulating layer - so plan in advance how you will lay the laminate or lay the linoleum on the new insulation.

If desired, a "double floor" system is equipped - logs are laid on the insulation and a full-fledged covering is assembled from new floorboards or solid boards. But such repairs are quite expensive and significantly reduce the height of the room. In addition, you will have to redo the doorways and the doors themselves to the veranda.

Step 2: insulate the walls

If the walls are made of planks, then they are carefully removed and the plank veranda is insulated along the "wrong side" of the facade. Then the old boards can be put back in place, putty and wallpaper pasted, MDF panels, wall plastic, etc. can be mounted, depending on design preferences and repair budget. Often the kitchen is taken out to the insulated veranda - then tiles or PVC panels for the kitchen are used in the decoration of the walls.

A crate made of wooden slats is nailed (shot) onto brick or concrete walls. Bars are selected with a section from 25x25 to 40x40 mm. Styrofoam can be tightly inserted into the formed openings (then they are made wide and deep, according to its dimensions) and glued along the end. In general, when working with polystyrene, it is easier to assemble a mounting crate, based on the size of its sheets, than vice versa - to saw hard material along an already installed grid.

Thermal insulation in rolls is stitched (nailed) to the slats, the seams are glued with tape. If it is used without foam, then the mounting rails are chosen thin, along the length of the fastening nails, in order to save the space of the veranda. If necessary, you can combine the installation of foam and roll thermal insulation on the same crate.

Step 3: We insulate the ceiling

The procedure will require waterproofing work, any ceiling is affected by atmospheric precipitation. Even if the roof is good, there is no escaping moisture condensation, accidental leaks, etc. First, the ceiling lining is removed and a hydro-barrier is mounted - a special roofing film with fine perforations, the seams of the film are carefully glued with scotch tape with metal spraying. Further work is similar to the wall installation of insulation material, with the exception of safety measures. When insulating the ceiling, it is necessary to use protective goggles, as there is a risk of eye injury when fixing the insulation with nails, shedding small chips, etc.

We insulate the terrace or summer veranda

It is quite realistic to make a living space without walls at all - that is, to hold thermal insulation of the terrace with your own hands, including if it is located in the form of a separate structure. The main thing is to have a waterproof roof over your head. A typical sequence of actions is as follows:

• Around the perimeter of the terrace, you need to mount an impromptu plinth - a fence made of bricks or cinder blocks with a height of at least 20 cm.
• The floor is prepared according to the above procedure and covered with insulation - with careful gluing of the seams with tape and fastening to the base with nails, everything is as it should be. The required thickness of heat-insulating material for open verandas is at least 6 cm;
• A moisture-insulating film is laid on top, which serves as a hydro-barrier - from accidental splashes of rain and snow drifts;
• The finishing flooring is mounted from linoleum, laminate, or solid board;
• The ceiling is sheathed in the same way as when working in closed verandas, only the waterproofing is laid in two layers - for reliability;
• Double-glazed windows are installed in the entire wall - a new terrace with French-style windows is obtained. You can, of course, nip up the openings with an ordinary film - but here there will be no time for aesthetics, not for comfort.

Expanding the warm space of your home on your own is easier than it seems. This work is quite doable alone, all materials are acceptable, simple tools and basic repair skills are required. You can try to collect thermal insulation on a separate section of the floor or wall on the same summer veranda - in order to understand how much you can handle this. The additional tens of square meters of living space is worthy of a few days of summer effort - because the results are tangible all year round.

In this part of the article about the construction of an extension to the house, we will talk about the internal insulation of the ceiling, walls and floor.

Fortunately, I have many friends, whose hands have grown out of nowhere. It is fortunate that each of them specializes in a certain type of work. Having conceived to insulate the newly built rooms from the inside, I called for help from a former classmate specializing in apartment renovation.

Ceiling and wall cladding with plasterboard

Wall cladding with plasterboard slabs allows not only to insulate the room, but also to level the walls, as well as to achieve significant sound insulation. Having once invested finances and labor in insulation, you will save on heating annually.
There is also a drawback to this construction procedure: wall cladding steals a part of the usable area from the premises.

Internal work of this kind can be done at any time of the year, especially if the room is heated. Slight temperature drops are not terrible for finished drywall sheets. It was so fortunate that during the winter we managed to completely sheathe one of the rooms.

We started by installing profiles on the ceiling. For this, narrow starting profiles of UD were screwed strictly according to the level with dowels on two opposite walls just at the junction of the walls with the ceiling. Wooden ceiling beams, to which the wide main profiles of the LED will be attached, go from window to window, therefore, the starting profiles, in order to attach to the beams, must go perpendicular to them.
This means that the starting profiles will be fixed parallel to the beams, in the position of the letter P outward. The main profiles, on the contrary, are fixed with self-tapping screws to wooden beams in the position of the letter P inward. On the ceiling, both edges of each segment of the main profile of the SD entered the groove of the profile of the starting UD and were fixed in them with short screws.

The distance between the profiles on the ceiling is 40cm, on the walls 60cm.
I think the principle is clear - it is much more difficult to keep even the fixed plates in a horizontal position on the ceiling than when they are in an upright position. Therefore, we will screw them on the ceiling more often, i.e. more reliable than on the walls.

When calculating the location of the profiles, it is necessary to take into account the size of the drywall sheets, because the joint of the sheets must fall in the middle of the profile width so that the drywall can be fixed. The sizes of 40 and 60 cm were not chosen by chance, they are due to the width of the gypsum plasterboard, which is 120 cm.

The profiles are fixed on the walls and ceiling with suspension plates (I chose the universal 60/125 because of the extra length). Each suspension with two dowels was fixed to each wooden ceiling beam, and on the walls after 40 centimeters. This figure is not strict, it is better to attach it to a foam concrete block and a brick than to cement joints between them.

Due to the curvature of the walls, the same part of the profile is adjacent to the wall, sometimes close, sometimes at a small distance. Therefore, the next operation was the vertical alignment of the profile at a one and a half meter level. Having aligned the profile, both edges of the suspension were bent along its perimeter. The suspension was attached to the SD with small self-tapping screws, popularly called "fleas".

Part of the suspension plate on both sides of the profile remains free. It can be trimmed, but it is easier to fold back against the wall. In the case of insulation with glass wool, they will serve as additional holders.

The profiles are made of soft metal, therefore, at the edges of one part of the profile, we slightly wrinkle it with our hand and push it a couple of centimeters into the other part, securing it with the same "fleas". In principle, there is no waste.

If the ceiling profiles are aligned with the starting UD profile, then the two extreme ones are first mounted along the walls, the rest are aligned along them.

Convenience in delivery, relative cheapness, ease of installation - these are the positive characteristics of this building material. Another good thing about drywall is the ability to mark with a pencil on its surface the levels, the projection of the profiles, and the places of screwing with self-tapping screws for metal.

They worked mainly with a screwdriver. Cut drywall with a special knife for drywall and foam. It looks the same as a stationery for cutting paper, only of a larger size, thickness and length of the blade.

The size of the sheet is 1.2 m by 2.5 m, and the height is 2.35 m, the width and length of the smaller room are 3 and 4.2 m. Therefore, a lot of scraps are obtained, which have to be adjusted above / below the windows and pipes. It is also good to work with solid sheets because only vertical profiles are needed for them (on the walls). When you "sculpt" the trim, you have to additionally install horizontal profiles to securely fix each piece of drywall around the entire perimeter. But in the end, plasterboard slabs create a flat surface. It will become ideal after filling, then the joints of the plates and the caps of the screws will not be visible.

On the inner interior wall, I considered the insulation to be superfluous, but because of its curvature I decided to level the surface with drywall on one side.

Isover bought by me is wound in rolls of two layers. Unwinding the roll, you get a sheet of 5 cm thick, which easily peels into two sheets, each 2.5 cm thick. It is worth noting that this nuance was very prudently conceived by the manufacturer. Buying one roll, you will not rack your brains over the problem of more / less insulation. For example, I laid sheets 5 cm thick on the ceiling, since only the roof protects the building from above, and 2.5 cm on the walls, since they are already insulated from the outside with expanded polystyrene and half the thickness of Izover will be quite enough.

I have used this material before, insulating the roof of the shed with it. It is a lightweight mineral wool that can be easily cut with the same drywall knife.

Since the roof is single-pitched, we began to attach the drywall in small pieces from the side of the ceiling above which the lower edge of the roof is located. The clearance there is minimal, therefore, having secured the first row of narrow strips of drywall, we immediately slipped the same narrow piece of Izover between it and the roof. Then, solid sheets of drywall were fixed on the ceiling, since the distance to the roof became decent, and it was realistic to lay large pieces of Izover across the entire width of the room.

The same song with wall insulation, but the inconvenience here is of a different nature: the insulation must be held upright until we fix the drywall sheet. As it turned out, this issue is solved by primitive engagement of the Isover edges with the profiles. We cut Isover with a width equal to the distance between the profiles fixed to the walls.

The result of work on internal insulation

Internal insulation made itself felt literally the next day after we finished the work. At night, I left the radiator on in the room in the middle position. In the morning, the thermometer showed + 24 ° C, while the temperature outside was -5 ° C.
Hopefully, the "thermos" effect will keep you cool indoors even in the summer heat.

The house is a great thing in the warm season. But with the onset of cold weather, the owners suddenly notice that the corners of the extension are frozen and blackened, the wallpaper is damp, and in general, the veranda can no longer cope with keeping the cold from the street. It's time to think about how to insulate the terrace next winter, especially if this part of the room is planned for living.

A summer veranda in the house is a great thing in the warm season.

We solve the problem comprehensively

This is a big deal, it requires an integrated approach. Simply put, you will have to insulate the veranda with your own hands from bottom to top, from underground to roof.

To keep everything close at hand, let's prepare:

• hammer;
• nails;
• putty with spatulas;
• masking or construction tape;
• roulette;
• hacksaw;
• screws and nails;
• pencil.

To insulate the veranda, you will need a hammer, nails, putty with spatulas, painting or construction tape, tape measure, hacksaw, screws and nails, a pencil

Materials will have to be purchased as the stages of work are completed.

We insulate windows and doors

Even in an ordinary warm apartment, the lion's share of the heat evaporates if it comes through from the windows. On the veranda, the more the windows give huge losses. If you have old wooden windows installed, do not skimp on new insulating glass units, they are well worth it. If it is not possible to replace the windows, the cracks in them should be repaired as much as possible. For this, ready-made adhesive strips of foam rubber or, at worst, masking tape are suitable, they can seal the windows and survive the winter. In old windows, you need to double-check the condition of the external glazing beads, replace rotten or broken ones, put the glass on a sealant and press down with new glazing beads.

Ready-made foam adhesive strips are suitable for window insulation

Doors should also be insulated first of all by laying a special insulation strip made of rubber or adhesive foam rubber along the diameter.

Ceiling insulation

It is very important to insulate the ceiling from the roof of the house. Good insulation will help not only in the cold winter, but also save you from the heat in the summer. It is usually cheap and easy to make. The easiest way is to plaster the ceiling, because plaster reduces the moisture holding capacity of the surface and creates an additional layer of insulation.

When choosing heat insulators, you need to give preference to non-toxic materials. Cardboard is effective, but it has poor qualities - it has excellent flammability and absorbs moisture.

Vermiculite and other mineral wool have good insulating properties. These insulators are safe to use, non-combustible, affordable, and readily available from hardware stores. It is convenient to use this insulation in the form of slabs, but first you should lay a layer of vapor barrier in the form of roofing felt.

Good insulation will not only help in cold winters, but also save you from the heat in summer.

One of the best ways to insulate the ceiling is called the laying of foamed polymer foamed, it is able not only to retain heat, but also not to allow moisture to pass through.

The insulator layers are placed between the ceiling slabs. One of the more exotic ways to keep heat from wasting through the ceiling is called plastic bottles. If you collect them, tie them tightly together and lay them in the form of mats over the ceiling, then they will become a kind of traps for the cold and create a barrier to heat loss.

We insulate the bottom

Speaking of floors, we mean insulation from the side of the foundation - insulation of space near the ground, insulation of the foundation and the floor itself.

Step 1. Expanded clay-earthen option.

Traditionally, by making the foundation for the terrace, the homeowners continue the line of the old foundation. And he, as a rule, is brick or concrete. Having excellent strength, these materials suffer from one drawback - they are cold. Both the cement base and the concrete slab draws heat from the room. Thus, the losses through the foundation make up one fifth of all heat losses.

You can isolate the veranda from the cold basement in a wooden house with a layer of earth or expanded clay. This is usually done during the construction of a terrace - along the line of the strip base, the middle is covered with insulation. At the same time, the land costs free, but has not very high thermal insulation properties. Expanded clay is expensive, but it has good heat retention properties.

You can isolate the veranda from the cold subfloor in a wooden house with a layer of earth or expanded clay

Step 2. "Warm up" the foundation.

In cold winters, the ground near the foundation freezes, forcing it to shrink, and expand during a thaw. So the foundation "plays" several times over the winter, which leads to the formation of cracks and destruction of the foundation in the house. To avoid this, you need to cut the foundation base from contact with the outer layer of the earth. To do this, you first need to open the foundation to the very bottom. Then smear with bitumen or special bitumen-polymer mastic. Allow to dry and glue sheets of polystyrene or other polystyrene-based heat insulator on top. The foundation is covered with polystyrene sheets up to the very top, including the basement part. For work, polyurethane glue is used, while the sheets must be glued very carefully, pressing them along the edges so that the so-called cold bridges do not remain and there is no moisture access to the base in the house.

Recently, many types of sprayed insulation have appeared on the market of materials for construction work and repair. This material is a polyurethane foam mass in cylinders, which gives a very good insulation effect. It is applied to the wall, and after spraying, the foam hardens after a while, turning into a dense and durable crust. Her only drawback is the price.

Step 3. We insulate the floors.

In private households, there is an eternal problem - it blows from the underground, cold feet. Insulation is indispensable. Usually, the problem is solved by laying underfloor heating under the screed - electric or water. In an unheated extension, you have to solve the problem in a different way:

• sprinkle the subfloor with rubble, then pour sand and tamp everything;
• lay a reinforcing mesh or metal rods on top of the sand, pour a small screed - no more than 5 cm;
• Smear the hardened cement with mastic to impart water-repellent properties. It is even easier to lay roofing material, fastening the strips with bitumen mastic;
• lay wooden logs impregnated with an antiseptic composition, and spread any of the heaters between the logs. Blow out the joints with polyurethane foam.
• Lay the floor from boards, pre-treated with an antiseptic and dried.
• Insulation. To prevent the boards from rotting from dampness, do not forget about vents, they must be in the foundation and placed below the floor.

To make the walls warmer

The largest area of ​​contact with the cold is at the walls. You can insulate the veranda from the outside and from the inside. Insulation of the veranda from the inside is done if the building is finished on the outside with expensive high-quality materials that are a pity to open.

Insulation of the veranda from the inside is done if the building is finished on the outside with expensive high-quality materials that are a pity to open

How to insulate a veranda from the inside:

1. All cracks in the wooden walls must be repaired.
2. Fill the battens of the battens at intervals equal to the width of the insulation boards, this will allow the wall to be sewn up evenly and without gaps.
3. Use a stapler to attach a film for moisture insulation to the slats.
4. If interior decoration with plasterboard is planned, then at this moment it is necessary to mount a crate made of metal profiles.
5. Place mineral wool slabs in the gaps of the profiles, you can use mounting dowel-umbrellas.
6. Fix the waterproofing film over the heat insulator with a stapler.
7. Mount plasterboard finishing boards on the metal profile.
8. Putty and paint the walls.

Insulation methods outside

If it is possible to insulate the walls from the street, then it is better to do so. Firstly, it will help preserve the previously done interior decoration. Secondly, it is more profitable in terms of keeping warm. Outdoor materials such as brick and concrete not only do not heat, but under certain conditions are able to take heat from the interior. Therefore, the task is to insulate more thermally conductive materials, such as brick, concrete, less thermally conductive, such as, for example, mineral wool, basalt or cellulose insulation foam or other polystyrene.

You can insulate the walls from the street like this:

• fixing heat insulator plates to glue, followed by finishing with plaster;
• installation of a three-layer non-ventilated wall (fixing the insulation to the wall with a gap for air, laying in one brick);
• installation of a ventilated facade (a layer of waterproofing material is sewn onto the wall, then a layer of insulation, wind protection and finishing in the form of siding or lining).

Modern technologies for the production of building materials offer new developments for insulation, which may have their own installation conditions. Some of them, including ventilated facade technologies, allow for insulation work even in the cold season, since it does not involve the use of adhesives.

In the diagrams below, you can see examples of how the insulation of wooden, as well as brick and concrete walls is carried out.

Progress

1. Prepare the wall surface: remove the completely old layer of insulation or plaster, reaching the brick, block or wooden wall.
2. Level the surface. Fill the potholes with mortar, and clean the protrusions until smooth.
3. Clean the walls from dirt and dust, prime the surface.
4. Place beacons, they will help determine the surface of the outer edges of the insulation.
5. To make it easier to navigate during the installation of insulation boards, it is recommended to make a control grid, fill screws for it on the top of the wall, attach plumb lines to them, these will be vertical guides. The horizontal guides will be the threads stretched horizontally.
6. Start the assembly of the slabs.

If you work with expanded polystyrene, then you should start laying by installing a small bottom shelf, the first sheet is glued to it. Next, the sheets are glued with an adhesive and alternately applied to the wall under level control. When the first layer dries, the next one is mounted, and the joints of the slabs should be half-shifted.

In the corners of the wall and near the windows, the foam plates are additionally fixed with a metal corner in all other sheets, the sheets are also attached with anchors in the form of "fungi" - in the center and at the corners of the sheets. The joints of the slabs are fixed with reinforcing tape for plastering work. Next, you need to fix the reinforcing mesh on the plates and plastering work can begin.

Important! Expanded polystyrene is good for insulating brick and concrete walls, however, preliminary drying of the wall will be an important condition for the quality of work. This will avoid the accumulation of moisture under the insulation layer. After all, as you know, expanded polystyrene does not have good vapor permeability, so after you sew up the walls with insulation, it will be difficult to remove the dampness from under the slabs.

Warming with basalt, mineral wool or cellulose materials is carried out on a crate, which is mounted with wooden slats. A prerequisite is that the sheets of insulation should be slightly larger, literally a couple of centimeters, than the crate cells. This will allow the insulation to be made tightly, without gaps. Anchors are installed at the corners of the cells for better fastening of the insulation. On an uneven wall, it is better to use two-layer insulation. In this case, a soft layer must be mounted to the wall, which will hide the irregularities. On top of the insulation layer, you can install a reinforcing mesh and do plastering work (when using, for example, mineral wool). Or make a three-layer ventilated facade: fixing a film on top of the insulation as a wind shield, fill in a horizontal crate and then sheathe the walls with siding, clapboard, or overlay with bricks.

Below is a diagram of thermal insulation with mineral wool slabs.

The scheme of warming the veranda with mineral wool slabs

It is difficult to imagine a country cottage or cottage without a veranda. Basically, such a building is used only in the warm season. But often, in order to increase the usable area and operate the premises in winter, they carry out insulation of the veranda,. How to implement this correctly and with minimal costs, we will tell you in this article.

Warming methods

How to make a veranda suitable for winter living? It is advisable to think over the possibilities of thermal insulation at the beginning of construction, since after the completion of the work, labor costs and financial investments increase several times.

Warming of the veranda involves the installation of insulation on the floor, walls, ceiling. However, due to the influence of the atmospheric environment, not all types of materials are suitable for solving this problem.

The best option is roll and plate heaters based on natural minerals. They are sufficiently air and vapor permeable, which contributes to the free removal of moisture and protects the wood from rotting and deterioration.

Artificial insulation made of polyurethane foam, which has low vapor permeability, is less preferable for the veranda. These materials are more often used for external insulation, plates are attached to a pre-installed timber frame.

We start from the floor

It is much easier to carry out measures to insulate the veranda during the construction phase. As a rule, such structures are made using frame technology. This facilitates the process of laying insulation in walls, floors and roofs.

The first stage in preparing the structure for winter living is floor insulation on the veranda. After the foundation has been erected, the lower strapping of a bar with a section of 150x150 mm is installed on the supports and the crate is mounted. Before insulating the floor on the veranda, the tree is treated with a protective compound.

Next, the so-called rough floor of the veranda from edged or unedged boards with a thickness of 25 mm is attached to the floor beam. In the presence of a subfloor, this task is relatively easy to solve. In the absence of the necessary space under the floor of the veranda, 30x30 bars are attached to the side planes of the floor in the lower part, on which the subfloor is mounted.

Insulating material and a vapor barrier layer are installed on top of the fixed boards. Since the lion's share of heat loss occurs through the floor, 2-3 layers of insulation are laid on the lower floor, alternating directions at an angle of 90 °.

Instead of plate or roll insulation, solid materials are used, for example, expanded clay is poured between the beams. A layer of vapor barrier is laid on top and the floor is finished.

We insulate the walls

The next stage of veranda insulation is wall insulation. Vertical bars are fixed along the perimeter of the floor and fixed with the help of jibs and transverse horizontal inserts. Outside, the walls are sheathed with finishing material of one kind or another, pre-laying a vapor barrier.

Insulation is mounted between the vertical posts in at least two layers.

As a rule, the thickness of the material allows it not to be additionally fixed. It is enough to cut pieces of mineral wool 3-4 cm wider than the opening in which the installation is planned.

After the vertical surfaces are insulated, the finishing layer of the vapor barrier is sewn on and the interior walls are finished.

We work with the ceiling

It is impossible to qualitatively insulate the veranda from the inside, bypassing the ceiling. The upper frame is assembled in the same way as the lower floor, that is, from wooden square beams. In the case of sequential work, the ceiling is insulated before installing the roof. For this, on the underside of the floor slabs, the surface is finished with a preliminary installation of a vapor barrier.

Insulation is mounted on the finish in several layers and covered with a draft ceiling. If the veranda does not imply the presence of a separate roof with an attic, a crate is attached over the sheathing and the roof is installed.

Warming the finished veranda

It is much more difficult to carry out thermal insulation of a building erected several years ago. In this case, it is advisable to minimize dismantling work that can damage the previously installed finishing material of the walls, floor and ceiling. Let's take a closer look at the nuances of warming the finished veranda.

Ceiling

If it becomes necessary to rebuild the premises for winter living, the installation of insulation begins with the dismantling of the interior decoration of the ceiling. The operation is performed carefully to minimize waste. As a rule, in wooden houses, when decorating verandas, they use expensive material - lining.

After all panels have been removed from the upper horizontal slab, they begin to install the insulation. To exclude the loss of mineral plates, proceed as follows:

Walls

As a rule, the finished veranda is insulated outside. This saves expensive interior finishes. After dismantling the outer wall cladding, a vapor barrier is installed: the film is fixed in the gaps between the racks using a construction stapler.

Insulation of the veranda outside

Instead of mineral wool, foam plastic is used for external wall insulation, which is resistant to weathering and is not afraid of the influence of microorganisms. Insulation of the veranda with foam is carried out in a pre-assembled crate, which provides free air circulation.

Particular attention is paid to the windows. It is better to install two- or three-chamber double-glazed windows.

If there is single glass in the windows for the veranda, all joints are treated with a special insulation on an adhesive basis, and the frame landing sites are coated with sealant.

Floor

A large amount of cold air enters the room through the floor. Winter operation of the veranda is impossible without high-quality thermal insulation, while heating costs increase significantly.

We begin work on laying the insulation with the dismantling of the floor covering. can be attached in several ways:

In the presence of a rough sheathing, a vapor barrier membrane is attached and expanded clay or mineral wool is laid. With a standard thickness of mats or rolls of 50 mm, it is recommended to lay 3 layers between the 150x150 timber. On the upper planes of the beams, a vapor barrier is attached and the floor boards are mounted in their original place.

If there is no subfloor, a false lattice is made of pine timber 30x30, attaching it to the side planes of the beams with 70x4 mm self-tapping screws.

Thus, having studied the technology of warming the veranda, even a novice master will be able to independently perform all the work. Of course, it is better to insulate the room during the construction phase. But as a last resort, you can make insulation of the finished veranda, spending an additional amount of effort, time and finances.