Pipes for heating in the floor (in the interfloor or basement ceiling) are installed either during the hidden laying of the heating system, or during the installation of the "warm floor" structure. It should be noted that in these cases, fundamentally different types of pipes are used and various technologies for assembling the pipeline are used.

Therefore, in this article we will describe the installation of heating pipes in the floor, placing emphasis on all the details of the technological process. In addition, we will say a few words about the "warm floor" technology itself.

Underfloor heating pipes: materials and requirements

Not any pipe can be installed under the floor covering, since the future system must be strong enough to withstand both internal and external pressure.

Moreover, the pipe should not corrode. Otherwise, the owner of the system will have to regularly disassemble the ceiling in order to replace the rusted area. Underfloor heating pipes should not permeate vapors, especially oxygen, since it is this that leads to the development of rust, which destroys the load-bearing structures and fasteners.

Considering these factors, it is possible to make a heating system in the floor with pipes exclusively from these materials:

• Copper pipes. This option is the most expensive, but such pipes are suitable for all the standards for hidden heating laying. Copper does not corrode, is resistant to mechanical damage and does not allow oxygen to pass through.
• Polymer pipes made of vapor-proof material (polybutylene or polyethylene). These pipes are quite resistant to external and internal pressure and do not corrode at all. At the same time, polymeric materials lack hardness, they are easy to cut, therefore it is recommended to install these pipes in a cement screed, which acts as a protector.
• Multilayer composite pipes. These pipes are hard, durable and resistant to rust. At the same time, metal-plastic will cost much less than copper. This option can be called the most optimal of those that are presented on the construction market in Russia now.

Features of fastening heating pipes under the floor

The technology of installation and fastening of the heating pipeline in the floor depends on the selected type of pipes, their wall thickness and diameter. Indeed, in the process of installing a hidden heating system, they try to avoid inserts, joints and other sections connected with fittings.

In other words, the pipeline should be laid in a screed or in a wall in one section, and it is advisable to create all bends, corners and roundings with your own hands or using pipe benders. Naturally, this pipe-laying pattern is only suitable for flexible construction materials such as XLPE, reinforced plastic and copper.

You need to know that the distribution of heating in the floor should be carried out according to a previously drawn up scheme. If you cannot work it out on your own, then you should use an alternative solution - a wiring diagram of the pipe system, outlined on a heat insulator or waterproofing substrate.

The pipes are attached to the floor using special strips, inside which there are landing slots for the required diameter. Alternatively, you can use single clips or paper clips. The best option is to lay pipes for heating in the floor or screed, certainly in the grooves cut in the panel insulation.

As a mandatory heat-insulating material, special plates of extruded polystyrene foam are used, in which holes are pre-equipped for laying a pipe of the required diameter. These boards are installed on bitumen waterproofing mastic. The pipes themselves fit into the grooves and bend if necessary.

Screed heating pipes

The location of the heating pipes inside the floor covering or screed allows you to abandon the use of unaesthetic heating radiators that spoil the interior of the room. In addition, the "warm floor" in terms of its efficiency and heat output is not inferior to some convectors, and the entire floor covering acts as a radiator.

Warm floors can be installed in any rooms, both in the kitchen, covering the screed with tiles, and in any other functional rooms, laying parquet or laminate on top of the heating system.
The process of installing a "warm floor" is carried out in accordance with the following instructions:

• Before starting the installation, you need to make the floor surface even by pouring a layer of self-leveling floor over the concrete screed, which eliminates all kinds of cracks and irregularities in the structure of the rough floor finish.
• After eliminating irregularities in the floor, horizontal waterproofing can be installed. Usually, it is a coating or roll waterproofing agent. It is best to use a water-based mastic, which plays the role of an adhesive for insulation.
• This is followed by the installation of heat-insulating material. Any hydrophobic material is used as it, for example, extruded polystyrene foam. This substance can withstand high floor loads and acts as a scaffold for the piping system. The minimum insulation thickness is one centimeter.
• Having fixed the insulation on the mastic, you can start installing the pipeline structure. It is necessary to avoid breaks, joints and mates in his body. A one-piece pipe from the coil is rolled out over the insulation, giving it the desired shape using a reinforcing mesh with clips. Also, bends can be formed using perforated strips or insulation with rolled channels. The optimal pipe size is 16 millimeters.
• After installing the pipes, it is recommended to pressure test them. This process is a leak test. This procedure must be performed before pouring the upper level of the screed, because the pipe may be damaged through no fault of yours, and a heavy object that has fallen on polymer pipes can cause them a serious defect.
• Having finished the process of installing pipes, you need to take care of the reinforcing screed, which will hide the relatively soft pipes. Please note that the screed must be laid exclusively on top of the pipeline filled with coolant. Otherwise, pipes made of soft materials may become defective under the weight of the concrete. To fill the screed, you can use a standard cement-sand mixture or ready-made sand cement. The volume of the required solution depends on the area of ​​the room with a warm floor and the selected thickness of the top screed, which is usually 3-7 centimeters. You can turn on the heating system after the screed has completely hardened, this process takes about a month.

After the final screed has hardened, flooring can be installed directly on it - parquet, tile, laminate, and the like. Please note that if there are no problems with the choice of tiles for installation above the "warm floor", then the choice of parquet or laminate can cause serious difficulties for the buyer. This is due to the fact that these materials must have a special marking, which says that it can be used for installation above a warm floor.

It is advisable to lay heating pipes under the floor in the warm season and in good weather. If the timing does not make it possible to use the classic system of "warm floors", then you can use an alternative option, a floor system, which is even easier to install.

Laying "warm floor" (water or dry)

This type of underfloor heating system has recently appeared on our market and has already received many positive reviews. A water-based "heat-insulated floor" is simply necessary in cases where the installation of a classical system is impossible for various reasons, such as the weight of the structure or the installation time. One square meter of an ordinary "warm floor" weighs up to 300 kilograms. Naturally, the installation of such a heavy system is unacceptable in old buildings or with wooden floors.

Another obvious drawback of installing a heating system in a screed is the height of the structure, which usually “steals” more than 7-10 centimeters of height from the room. The way out of this situation was flooring systems. They allow you to install water heating under the floor without large losses in the height of the room and unnecessary load on the floors. In addition, this system can be used immediately after installation, rather than waiting for a whole month until the screed is fully ready.

Of course, not everything is so smooth with water-based flooring systems. They are less efficient than the traditional version and cool down faster. This suggests that such a system is unlikely to be suitable for full independent maintenance of room temperature. However, for residents of southern latitudes, this option may be suitable if the house is well insulated.

If you do not live in the south, then, together with the floor heating option, you must use other heating systems, as a rule, they are radiators, and in some situations convectors. The fact that the decking cools down faster means they reach operating temperature faster and use less energy.

Floor-standing dry "warm floors" are divided into two types: polystyrene and wood. Regardless of the material used, they include 2 components: heat-distributing metal strips and blocks of the flooring system. Due to the low level of thermal conductivity of the base material, laying pipes directly into the grooves of the blocks does not give the required heat transfer, so they are placed in aluminum plates.
Wooden flooring systems are especially popular.

Their advantage is environmental friendliness and a high level of availability, and it is quite easy to install such a structure yourself. On sale you can find ready-made modular dry "warm floors" made of wood. They are blocks of chipboard or OSB, in which pipe channels are laid. The width of the modules is determined by the standards - 13, 18 or 28 centimeters, and they are connected by the lock method.

Polystyrene water floors are truly weightless, standard systems have a thickness of 15 to 70 millimeters. When choosing this type of "warm" floor, you can save on thermal insulation, since polystyrene itself acts as it. The slabs are laid on a clean and level base, and if necessary, a layer of heat-insulating material is first laid. Plates of this system can be rotary or simple. They are installed so that pipes can be laid in this scheme.

After the installation of polystyrene or wooden modules is completed, metal heat distribution plates are laid out on them. They have grooves in which pipes are installed.
Regardless of the material chosen for the floor heating system, a damper tape must be placed around the perimeter of its installation. It will compensate for the thermal expansion of the floor and prevent cracks between the wall and the floor. If there are several circuits in one of the rooms, they must also be separated with a damper tape.

Often, hearing the word "heating", people remember the heavy, rough, cast-iron batteries that were present in everyone's home during the era of the Union. The radiators took a long time to warm up, did not keep the heat in the apartment, and managed their function somehow. Now everything is different - there is an opportunity to choose among worthy alternatives. The most advanced of them is the "warm floor" system. Therefore, we are learning to install heating pipes in the floor screed.

The warmth starts at the feet

System operation

Why laying heating pipes in a floor screed is a wise decision? Isn't it easier to change the batteries? Of course lighter, but lighter doesn't mean better. The laws of physics cannot be canceled. The principles of operation of heating networks are fundamentally different. Familiar radiators generate heat, which rushes along the walls to the ceiling, warming it first of all. Then the air returns down, but already in a cooled state. Thus, the ceiling is warm and people are cold. The convection principle is not the best.

But pipes for heating in a screed work differently. The warmth first heats the legs, and then, cooling down, rises up. The inhabitants of the house do not freeze, and with this mechanism of heat distribution they feel better.

Weigh the pros and cons before installing

Advantages and disadvantages of technology

Before installing polypropylene pipes in a screed, familiarize yourself with the pros and cons of this heating technique, because you must be sure that you are investing resources wisely.

So, the advantages of "warm floor":

• service life (from 50 years);
• uniform heating;
• profitability (the maintenance of such heating is cheaper than the classical version);
• lack of moisture;
• ease of care;
• saving space;
• safety (children will not be injured or burned by batteries);
• maintaining normal air humidity;
• lack of environment for the emergence of bacteria;
• aesthetics.

Differences in heat transfer between the classic version and the "warm floor" system

Disadvantages are few, but you should know them:

• reducing the height of the room;
• the complexity of the repair work (finding pipes in the screed is a difficult task);
• impossibility of installation in specific places, for example, on flights of stairs.

This is important to know! If there are no restrictions on mansions, then before changing the heating system in a multi-storey building, make sure that the central system can withstand this hydraulic load.

Installation diagram of the "warm floor" system

System installation

Work always begins with a plan, procurement of materials, search for tools. Warm floor is no exception.

The wisdom of choosing pipes

What pipes are the most reliable for arranging heating? You are free to choose copper, but it is very expensive. It is better to dwell on polymer products consisting of polyethylene and polybutylene. Such a "duet" is resistant to pressure - both external and internal: it does not cause trouble if everything is correctly assembled. Polypropylene pipes should function in the floor screed, since their only drawback is their low hardness. Composite structures made of metal-plastic are no less good.

As for the installation of metal elements, in this case the risk will be unjustified. The water from the mains is sometimes replete with "chemistry", and the material may not withstand such aggressive impact - as a result, rust will appear, and then flow. Hard water also has a detrimental effect on metal. Therefore, polymer pipes are a wise decision, and at an affordable price.

Video tutorial on the choice of elements for the network

Room preparation

The installation of the network is carried out after the connection points of other communications have been removed, as well as after the installation of windows and doors. The room should be freed from furniture, the old heating network should be dismantled or left if you want double heating of the room.
Permissible surface irregularities are up to 1 cm. If they are larger, the base will have to be leveled.

Task number 1 - level the floor surface

Rooms located above the cold zone (basement) must be separated with insulating panels so that you heat the house, not the cellar.

The final stage of preparation is cleaning. An industrial vacuum cleaner will perfectly cope with such a task. It remains to ask the family members not to interfere and proceed with the installation.

Intermediate stage of work

Installation of the structure

Work begins on the installation of underfloor heating with thermal insulation. You already understood that the hot air should be at the top, not below. For thermal insulation of the network, you can use materials in the form of sheets or rolls. The main thing is to make sure that there are no gaps between the joints of the heat insulator, if you see gaps, cover them with a special tape. Polystyrene or basalt fiber coated with reflective foil is ideal for this task.

How to lay pipes? The uniformity of heating is important, therefore, use such options for the arrangement of elements as a snake or a spiral.

The main thing when laying the net is to adhere to the same pitch between zigzags or turns. Step size matters too. For rooms up to 20 m², a distance of 20 cm is sufficient. If you are installing the network in large rooms, it is recommended to mount several coils / snakes.

Laying is done wet or dry. If you choose the first - the more common, in which the heat transfer is maximum, then you will have to install a reinforcing mesh. You are free to purchase a factory set or build a reinforcement structure on your own. The size of the cells depends on the pitch, but the side of the cell should not exceed the pitch distance. The armature is fixed with clips, but if special heat insulators with bosses are used, then the fasteners are not needed.

A reinforcing mesh is also installed on top of the pipe network - for safety net, so that the elements do not deform under the weight of the screed. Next, the mesh is poured with a solution (gypsum, cement or other building mixture). The thickness of the screed varies between 3-7 cm.

This is important to know! Before pouring the screed, check the piping for leaks.

The dry method of "masking" the net is also practiced.

How to hide pipes in a dry screed? Use chipboard plates. The technology differs only in that instead of a solution, chipboard sheets are installed on top of the structure. The technique is simple, you don't have to wait for the screed to dry. However, dry styling cannot be called popular, since it has a drawback - voids inhibit the heat transfer of the network.

The shape of the structure is at your discretion

Using pipes in a floor screed for heating is not at all a luxury, right ?!

Video: how to hide a heating pipe in a screed

Heating in a private house or apartment does not stand still, but is constantly being improved. New methods and techniques are added that require a certain amount of work experience. The most efficient room heating is the water system. The existing communications are laid in a screed. During the operation of the system, heat is transferred to the floor covering, and later to the interior of the entire room. In addition, such heating can be called the most economical.

Pipe requirements

The heating medium is mainly water. But some people use antifreeze or ethylene glycol. It is the correct choice of pipes that will contribute to the efficient operation of the entire heating system. When visiting stores, you should pay attention to certain requirements that apply to the material:

Types of pipes

Pipes can be used in completely different ways. Basically, the classification is distinguished by materials according to the manufacturing method. If it comes to copper pipes, then you should immediately prepare a decent amount of money. These pipes are the most expensive. But at the same time, they can be laid without consequences in the screed of the concrete floor under the floor covering. The strength of the product is very high, it does not allow oxygen to penetrate inside. The surface of copper pipes does not undergo corrosive changes, but now such systems are no longer used. Plastic pipes are commonly used.

It is important to know that it is imperative to control the temperature of the liquid in the pipes and not to allow it to rise above 50 degrees.

Vapor-proof plastic is used in polymer pipes. It is based on materials such as polybutylene and polyethylene. They are able to withstand not only internal but also external pressure. In addition, they also do not corrode. But they definitely do not have enough hardness, since they are easily exposed to external influences, including cutting. For they are used to a lesser extent, although they have a low price.

When installing polypropylene pipes in a floor heating system, there must be a certain temperature level in it. The minimum reading is 15 degrees.

Composite pipes made of metal-plastic have a high level of strength and corrosion resistance. They differ little in their characteristics from copper pipes, but they are much cheaper. The pipe has three layers:

Advantages and disadvantages

According to the operation of the system, we can say that all the heat initially enters the concrete screed, which, after warming up, transfers it inside the room. And it doesn't matter which option is used in the apartment, electric or water heat-insulated floor. But the installation of pipes in a screed has both its advantages and disadvantages, which should be discussed in more detail before starting the installation.

The advantages include:

But we must not forget about the negative manifestation, which most often occurs due to the fact that screeds and pipe laying are not fully observed. There is no access to the contour of the pipes, and, therefore, if repair is necessary, you will have to break the entire screed and remove the floor covering. If the installation is in violation of the requirements, then there is a high probability of leakage to the lower floors. And the installation process itself requires certain knowledge. Not everyone will be able to independently arrange pipes for the underfloor heating system.

Surface leveling

Before starting the installation of the pipes of the system, the base should be carefully prepared. It should be perfectly flat without defects, cracks, potholes. Along the entire perimeter of the room, a height difference of up to 10 mm is allowed. Subsequently, all this is already closed by the subsequent finishing pouring of the screed.

Before starting the distribution of the solution, all communications must be laid and exposed in their places. There should be no debris or even dust on the surface.

Do not forget about insulating panels when the room is located above the basement or garage. Heat should be given only to the interior of the room, and not wasted on absorbing cold air from below. This will allow the most efficient heat distribution.

Pipe laying and fastening

When we start laying the heating pipes in apartments that have been chosen for the underfloor heating system, it should be remembered that the distance between the turns must be the same. This will transfer heat to the interior with better uniformity. The most optimal styling methods are a spiral (snail) or snake. There should be no joints, cuts. You should get a monolithic area. If it is necessary to bend pipes in certain areas, it is best to use pipe benders. But everything will depend on the pipes, their plasticity and capabilities.

Laying heating pipes in the floor should be carried out according to a scheme that is performed in advance. To fasten the elements to the floor, special strips are used. They already have the correct slot diameter. In isolated areas, clips or paper clips are used. The most convenient and profitable option is to fix the pipes in the grooves that have already been cut in the panel insulation. This suggests that the thermal insulation layer must be performed without fail.

Underfloor heating assembly rules

Heating pipes in the floor underneath allow you to abandon all the usual batteries, which only create a negative for the interior of the room. Among other things, in this way, the system transfers more heat to the room than heating batteries, saving money. The entire floor covering becomes a radiator. Such a system can be arranged in absolutely any room, while observing the sequence of actions and installation requirements.

There are certain rules by which the assembly is carried out. Only if they are observed, floor heating in an apartment in a screed will have the best efficiency.

Filling the screed

Floor screed heating will be effective if the mortar is properly poured. It will depend on the base, its defects, as well as on the area of ​​the entire room. The laid pipes must be completely covered with concrete screed. At the same time, we must not forget about expansion joints, without which the floor surface will give holes. In the process of heating the solution, the screed may undergo deformation. The expansion joints are filled with polyurethane. As for the choice of pipe in these areas, it is best to use a corrugated pipe.

The concrete layer is usually 30-70 mm. It is prepared from dry mixes, which contain all the necessary components, fillers, additives, plasticizers. If desired, the solution is prepared independently. At the same time, he should strictly observe the proportions for the amount of sand, cement, water and other components. A well-prepared solution will affect the screed. If you forget about the proportions and do everything by eye, then later you will not do without the appearance of cracks, shrinkage areas and other defects. We'll have to dismantle and start over. The heating of the floor and the entire heated room will be uneven, and the pipeline itself will not be able to serve the specified amount of time.

This technology is perfect not only for private construction, apartments, but also industrial facilities. After the floor has been poured with concrete, allow time for it to dry completely. Usually the period is 3-4 weeks. Everything will depend on the solution itself. As soon as the surface is dry, you can walk over it with a sander, which will contribute to uniform smoothness and evenness. All that remains is to lay the floor covering, which was selected for the warm floor option.

The decision to fill the heating pipes on the floor is made at the stage of overhaul in the room. This can be done when building houses, but few people use it. Pipes are essential when performing floor screed in an apartment. The final quality will depend on their choice. They must completely fit into the future screed.

If you need to pour heating pipes into a screed, then first you should consult a specialist. They will tell you all the pitfalls of installation, and also point out possible shortcomings in the end. This is worth listening to in order to get only positive qualities.

We welcome our regular reader and offer him a new article on the heating device.

Since the appearance of the first fire in the cave, man has been constantly looking for the most convenient, safe and economical heating methods. We want the house to be warm,. The engineers thought of hiding the heating pipes in the floor under the screed - this allows you to get a very comfortable, efficient and almost ideal heating system.

Fireplaces and stoves are not suitable for apartments and large houses, local heating is also not very comfortable; A traditional heating system using radiators or registers has some disadvantages:

• Warm air rises upward, and it is cool below the floor.
• Radiators and utilities take up space and collect dust.
• The constant convection of the air increases the amount of suspended dust in the air.
• Wiring and radiators do not decorate our houses and apartments at all;
• Radiators covered with decorative screens and curtains heat worse.

When heating with floor heating, all these problems are solved, in addition, such heating is more economical in comparison with radiator or convection heating by about 15-20%.

Therefore, the idea of ​​creating a warm floor in housing is becoming more widespread both in private houses and in apartments.

Screed heating can be done with wires and electricity or with pipes and hot water. Heating with electricity is more expensive - gas or other fuels are cheaper. The cost of the more expensive installation of the piping system pays off after several years of operation. If we weigh all the pros and cons of the "warm floor" system, the pros definitely outweigh.

The principle of operation of the underfloor heating water system: through which the heat carrier is supplied. Warm pipelines heat the screed, the screed transfers heat to the floor covering, the coating to the room. The floor under the furniture is not heated.

Such a heating system creates a favorable temperature distribution over the height and helps to save the amount of consumed heat (and money) compared to a radiator system. With the usual heating scheme, warm air from the radiators rises to the ceiling, heats it, and only then heats the room - with the convection method, the energy losses for heating the ceiling, walls and windows (batteries are installed under them) are quite large.

The use of underfloor heating in the house is especially effective if there is a second light or high ceilings - in this case, the savings increase, according to some sources, even up to 50%.

Why pipes in the floor need to be insulated

Pipes in the floor first of all need to be isolated from dynamic mechanical influences when people move and static load - from furniture standing on top. Although the heating wiring is not mounted under the furniture, there will still be chairs, dining tables, tables, ottomans, flowers and other easily movable pieces of furniture on top. The communications in the screed must be insulated from below so that heat is not wasted on useless heating of the floor structures.

A distinction should be made between laying low-temperature underfloor heating pipelines in the floor and laying heating pipelines. Heating has a temperature of 70-80-90 ° C, communications with such a temperature greatly heat the floor and the screed, cause a temperature drop - this can cause cracking of the screed and concrete structures. Therefore, heating with a high temperature must be insulated.

Benefits of closed installation

The advantages of a closed floor heating system are many:

• The main advantage is that a properly installed and well-functioning system creates ideally comfortable conditions in the room: the air above the floor is very warm, at the head it is warm, at the ceiling it is cooler. Parents of small children will especially appreciate this method of heating their homes.
• The second advantage is efficiency - the temperature of the coolant is lower, heat is consumed more efficiently, the living area of ​​the room is heated - windows, walls, ceilings, air under the ceiling, floor under furniture are not heated. With a ceiling height of 2.5 m, the savings are about 15-20%, with higher ceilings or second light - sometimes it reaches 50%. A rather expensive installation of pipelines pays off in a few years.
• Durability - the underfloor heating water system will last about 30-40-50 years (depending on the material. Copper structures will stand for 100 years). Floor heating works at a low temperature and low pressure - therefore, all pipelines and collectors work in a gentle mode and wear less.
• Ease of installation. Only design work is difficult.
• Ease of operation.
• The screed has a high thermal inertia - the room cools down slowly when the heating is turned off.
• Saves indoor space.
• Saves housewife cleaning efforts.
• The warm floor is not noticeable - and radiators with wiring usually violate the design of the room.
• The system is easy enough to combine with an existing radiator system.
• It is possible to heat the floors only in separate rooms - children's rooms, bathrooms.
• With radiators and constant convection, there is quite a lot of suspended dust in the air, when heated from below, such strong convection does not occur, there is less dust in the air - this is especially important for allergy sufferers and asthmatics.

Disadvantages of the location of heating pipes in the floor

Disadvantages of the "warm floor" heating system:

• The most serious drawback is the difficulty of repairing communications in case of damage. The rule of laying in a screed only a single piece of the pipeline should be strictly observed.
• The flooding of housing with warm water in the event of a leak creates considerable problems.
• Significant cost of the entire complex of works on the installation of the system.
• Significant cost of a pump, a manifold with a mixing unit.
• It is necessary to allocate space for a collector cabinet - one cabinet for each floor in the house;
• The complexity of the design - it is desirable to involve specialists.
• Such a system cannot be installed in apartment buildings in which it was not provided for in the project (and this happens only in new buildings). The large weight of the screed creates a large load on the floor slabs and creates the danger of breaking the load-bearing structures of the house. The law prohibits connecting underfloor heating systems from centralized heating and hot water supply systems.
• The height of the entire structure of the screed + insulation reaches 110-120 mm, the weight of the screed is large - this should be taken into account when designing a house (both in terms of the height of the room and the strength of the floor structures).
• The heating system limits the choice of flooring - carpet, parquet with good heat-insulating properties make heating ineffective. Tiles, stone, porcelain stoneware, laminate are preferable. Only high-quality linoleum can be used - in cheap varieties, when heated, substances with an unpleasant odor will be released.
• Significant thermal inertia - the screed heats up slowly.
• Hot water heating systems cannot be cooled below zero - it will not work to heat the porch, terrace, garage and walkways or equip a weekend cottage with such a system. Antifreeze can be used, but it is expensive and is also very poisonous.

Types of pipes for the floor

For laying heating, four types of pipes are used: cross-linked polyethylene, metal-plastic polypropylene, corrugated steel, copper (and copper in a plastic sheath). Copper ones are very expensive, difficult to install, equipment and a welding specialist are required. Therefore, despite their strength and durability, they are very rarely used in floor heating systems.

Reinforced plastic polypropylene

Polypropylene is the most popular heating material. Resistant to corrosion, strong enough, somewhat fragile (in comparison with other plastics), sufficiently plastic, chemically inert, withstands water shocks. The big advantage is the low price and easy installation.

It can work at high temperatures, but has a high coefficient of thermal expansion and lengthens greatly with increasing temperature. Reinforcement with aluminum foil reduces this disadvantage. A pipe, especially a reinforced one, bends poorly - it is mounted using soldering / welding. Therefore, it is a budgetary and reliable, but not ideal material option for a warm floor.

Corrugated stainless

Corrugated stainless steel pipes are also produced. The advantages of such a pipe:

• Strength.
• Long service life.
• Corrosion resistant.
• Chemical inertness - they practically do not overgrow from the inside with calcium and magnesium salts.
• Very wide range of flexibility.
• High resistance to mechanical stress.
• Resistant to high temperatures.

The disadvantage of metal corrugation is a rather high cost. This variety did not become widespread only because of the low awareness of consumers.

PE-X pipes

Crosslinked polyethylene has crosslinks between molecules, due to this, a volumetric cellular network with crosslinked molecules is formed. Cross-linked polyethylene (PE-X) has significantly higher strength than low and high pressure polyethylene, and higher strength compared to metal-reinforced plastic. The durability of cross-linked polyethylene is about 50 years.

PE-X is resistant to high temperatures - it can withstand heating up to + 95 ° С (for a short time - up to + 110 ° С); has other advantages of plastics: it is not subject to corrosion, it is resistant to hydraulic shocks, it is plastic, it is not fragile, it is chemically inert, it does not overgrow with salts from the inside. Compared to polypropylene, it has a lower coefficient of thermal expansion.

The disadvantage of PE-X is its relatively high cost.

Requirements for the elements of the underfloor heating system

The constituent elements of the underfloor heating system - pipes, fittings, a manifold, shut-off valves - must have the following qualities:

• Ensuring the integrity of the system.
• Durability.
• Strength.
• Reliability of connections.

Is it possible to lay heating pipelines in corrugation

Can. But you don't need to. There is no need - all types of pipes, poured into the screed, with the maintained standard screed thickness (50 mm above the level of the pipes) will perfectly serve for decades and will not collapse. But the efficiency of the system will drop - an extra shell, air pockets in the protruding parts of the corrugation will slow down the transfer of heat.

The choice of pipes for pouring into a screed depends primarily on your financial capabilities. But to save on structures, poured into a screed for decades, is not worth it - it can be very expensive.

The best and most durable pipes are copper and copper with plastic coating. They can last 100 years or more. But they are the most expensive, they have a complex installation - a specialist is required.

Stainless steel corrugation is very durable - you can count on 50 years. And the price is lower, and the installation is easier. Cross-linked polyethylene will stand for about 40-50 years. Pipes made of polypropylene metal-plastic are less durable. In addition, it will not work to lay them in a screed without welding with the help of couplings and corners - the pipes bend poorly and are supplied in lengths of 6 m. Any connection increases the risk of leakage.

Pipes are practically selected from PE-X. He has an almost optimal ratio of price and quality. But more and more often they use stainless steel corrugation. In any case, the choice is yours.

approximate cost

The cost of pipes made of cross-linked polyethylene with an oxygen layer with a diameter of 16 mm - from 70 rubles; stainless corrugations with a diameter of 15 mm - from 150 rubles; copper products with a diameter of 15 mm - from 270 rubles per running meter. cost from 15 rubles per meter.

What is the thickness of the screed should be above the pipes of the underfloor heating

The thickness of the screed above the underfloor heating pipes should be 40-50 mm and not less, above the insulation - 60-70 mm. A thicker screed reduces the efficiency of the heating system, a smaller one - less reliably protects communications from mechanical stress.

If, for some reason, the thickness of the screed approaches 100 mm, then the use of a protective metal corrugation is justified.

Installation methods

The pipeline is laid by two methods:

• Spiral styling - "snail". This type of installation is suitable for large rooms and provides a more even distribution of heat over the entire area of ​​the room.

• Parallel styling - "snake", "double snake" (or "meander"). This method is more often used in small rooms. Its disadvantage is uneven heat distribution. Place the pipes so that the beginning of the pipeline (the warmest plate) is located at the coldest wall - the outer one with windows.

When laying the system, the laying spacing (distance between pipes):

• In bathrooms, bathrooms, swimming pools - 100 mm.
• In living rooms - 150 mm.
• In auxiliary rooms - up to 300 mm.

The diameter of the pipes ranges from 12 to 20 mm, in very rare cases -25 mm (in public buildings).

For filling

Most often, pipe screed is used. This method is used if floor heating is installed in rooms with reinforced concrete ceilings. Thermal insulation is laid on the ceiling, then waterproofing, then pipes, then the screed is poured and the final floor is laid.

Under the wooden floor

Most often, a warm floor is arranged in a screed, but what if both the house and the floor are made of wood? In this case, you can also arrange a heated floor.

The layout of the pipeline, the connection to the collector completely coincides with the device of the warm floor when pouring into the screed.

Logs are installed on the wooden floor. In the logs, cuts are made for pipes. Insulation is laid between the logs, pipes are laid out on the insulation. Then they cover it with a board or strong plywood and lay a final floor - usually laminate or linoleum.

Another option for installing a warm floor on a wooden floor: insulation is laid between the logs, sheet material is laid on the logs - plywood, OSB, chipboard, plates with a thickness of 20 mm are cut from the same material, the width of the plates is equal to the distance between the pipes, the plates are screwed to the sheet material, in the grooves are laid with foil and pipe, then the laminate. A layer of galvanized or aluminum can be laid on top of the pipe - for better heat transfer.

DIY installation

Installation of the underfloor heating system is quite simple, and you can do it yourself.

Required tools and materials

For installation you will need:

• A container and mixer for mixing mortar, buckets, shovels, crowbar, usually a trowel, a long trowel.
• Drill, pliers, construction knife, glue, construction tape.
• Grinder, discs, calibrator, round file.
• Fittings, pipes, reinforcing mesh 50 × 50 mm, pipe fittings, pipe cutter, insulation, cement mixture, waterproofing film, press tongs.
• For a wooden floor - logs, saws, pipes, pipe cutter, fittings.

Surface leveling

It is very important to level the floor surface. There are two reasons:

• The heat-insulating plates will not firmly adhere to the floor and may sag during operation - this will lead to cracking of the screed and may lead to a violation of the tightness of the pipes.
• If the difference in the base is more than half the height of the pipe, then the raised parts of the pipe are likely to form air locks that interfere with the movement of warm water and reduce the efficiency of the system.

Most often, the surface of the subfloor is quite flat, but in some cases it is necessary to repair the surface with mortar or install a new leveling screed.

Preparation of the insulating layer

Insulation must be installed under the heating pipelines - usually slabs of dense extruded polystyrene foam (not expanded polystyrene foam) of high density with a thickness of at least 35 mm (preferably 50 mm). Rigid mineral wool slabs are sometimes used, but this is not the best way. You can use a cork. It is good if the insulation is foil. You can lay a foil waterproofing film. Do not stack penofol.

From above, the thermal insulation is protected with a waterproofing film. There are films with markings, thermal insulation boards with clamps and markings.

A damper tape is fixed along the wall. Sometimes it is recommended to lay a strip of insulation along the wall.

Pipe laying and fastening

Pipes are laid on the waterproofing according to the project. The length of one circuit should not exceed 150 m - otherwise the hydraulic resistance of the pipes simply will not give the pump the ability to push water through the pipe. The contours should be approximately equal in length.

If the pipes need to be bent, do it carefully, preferably using a template, so that wrinkles do not form on the pipes at the bending points. If there are no fasteners on the thermal insulation, then special plastic strips (mounting rails) with locks are mounted to fix the pipes at the required distance from each other. You can fix pipes. It is necessary to fasten the pipe so that it does not "float" when pouring the screed.

Underfloor heating assembly rules

After laying, the pipes are connected to the manifold using fittings. Each circuit must be able to be disconnected using inlet and outlet valves.

Then the system is tested, filled with water and heated. Test technology: pressure and temperature are gradually increased over several hours. If possible, the pressure is adjusted to 0.6 MPa (6 bar, 6 atmospheres). Test the system for at least 24 hours, releasing air several times.

Then the temperature and pressure are reduced, but the system is left filled with water - the screed is poured when the system is full.

Reinforcement mesh creation

Then a reinforcing mesh is laid - for this, a mesh with a cell of 50 × 50 mm is used.

Reinforcing mesh installation and screed filling

Then the system is filled with mortar. The pipeline should be filled with water at room temperature - 20-23 ° C, the pressure should be 0.3 MPa. It is better to use a ready-made dry cement mixture marked "for water-heated floors". You can add plasticizers for a warm floor to an ordinary cement mortar.

The screed is poured from the walls. It is not bad to cover it with polyethylene - this improves the maturation process of the solution and improves its quality. Drying of the surface for the solution is undesirable, and it is impossible to humidify a large area. The screed hardens completely after 20 days, but you can walk on it a couple of times in 10 days, not earlier.

Conclusion

We say goodbye to our regular reader and wish him to use the information from this article for installing a warm floor - the ideal heating system for your home. Subscribe to our updates, share valuable information on social networks, bring your friends to our website!