Battery with temperature controller. Thermostat for heating radiator

First of all, let's talk about when thermostats are needed for radiators. They are needed in rooms where the temperature needs to be reduced. Most often these are the upper apartments of high-rise buildings with overhead coolant supply and vertical distribution. By installing a thermostat on the battery and setting the desired temperature, you are guaranteed to have the specified parameter with an error of one degree.

When do thermostats fail? If you need to increase the heat transfer of the heating device. They can only lower it, but not raise it. What radiators do thermostats work well with? With all except cast iron: they have a very high thermal inertia and such a device is practically useless. Now let’s learn more about the types and features of their installation and operation.

Structure and principle of operation

Structurally, devices for regulating battery temperature consist of:

  • valve (valve);
  • thermostatic element.

A thermal valve (also called a thermal valve) is, in fact, an ordinary valve. The same metal body with a through hole, seat and cone. The cone is a locking mechanism. By lowering and rising, it changes the amount of coolant flowing. Everything is as usual, only the method of setting this locking mechanism in motion is unusual.

The shut-off cone is driven by a thermal head (thermostatic element, thermocouple). Its base is a small sealed and elastic cylinder filled with a thermal agent. The cylinder used in thermostats is called a bellows. A thermal agent is a gas or liquid, but not just any gas, but a special one: their volume should strongly depend on temperature. There are also bellows with solid thermal agents, but their reaction time to temperature changes is at least half an hour. So they are used very rarely.

Here's how this device works: when heated, the substance increases in volume, stretching the cylinder. It presses on the piston, which moves the shut-off cone of the thermal valve. The cone blocks the coolant flow, the substance in the bellows cools down. As it cools, it contracts and the cylinder decreases in size. The spring-loaded mechanism lifts the shut-off cone, the coolant again enters the radiator and the head of the device is heated. In this way, the room temperature can be maintained with an accuracy of one degree.

But different devices give different accuracy. The thing is that the expansion and contraction of the bellows does not occur abruptly, but gradually. Therefore, the coolant is cut off and opened not abruptly, but smoothly. Because of this, the position completely closed or completely open is quite rare. What does this mean? That the room will be more comfortable.

The magnitude of the error is characterized by such an indicator as the “gestesis” of the thermal head. The lower this indicator, the faster the device responds to temperature changes. But high accuracy is not always needed, and prices vary considerably.

But when installing the regulator on a radiator, be prepared for the fact that it will never warm up evenly and completely. Some part will always be cold. To make sure that everything is normal in it, it is not clogged or airy, remove the thermal head. After some time, the entire surface will become uniformly warm.

Type of thermostatic elements

The thermal head for the radiator is the upper, replaceable part of the device. It can be of several types:

  • manual;
  • mechanical;
  • electronic

Almost all serious manufacturers make the valve (housing) compatible with any type of thermoelement. The operating principle described above is a thermostat equipped with a mechanical head. This configuration is considered basic and there are a lot of modifications in this category. They differ in characteristics and price.

To give you an idea of ​​the prices: European manufacturers sell mechanical thermal heads from 15 euros to 25 euros; there are anti-vandal models, they cost from 40 euros. There are devices with a remote sensor. They are installed if conditions do not allow regulating the temperature on the radiator (for example, it is installed behind a cabinet, closed in a niche, etc.). Here the length of the capillary tube that connects the sensor to the thermostat plays a big role. Prices in this segment range from 40-50 euros.

This is what a manual device for adjusting the temperature of radiators looks like in section

A manual thermostat is the same as a control valve for a radiator. And the principle of operation is the same: rotate the knob, change the amount of coolant passing through. The only difference is that if you wish, you can simply remove this thermoelement and install a mechanical or electronic one. There is no need to unscrew or change the housing. They are universal. Heads for manual adjustment have a low price - from 4 euros.

Electronic thermal heads are the most expensive options, but they are also the most massive: the case has space for two batteries. They differ in that they have more opportunities. In addition to maintaining a stable temperature throughout the entire time, you can program the temperature by day of the week or time of day. For example, after 9 a.m. all household members leave and appear only after 6 p.m. It turns out that there is no need to spend money on maintaining high temperatures during the daytime. Electronic thermoelements make it possible to set a lower temperature during this period on all days, except weekends. Set it to at least 6-8 o C, and by evening you can heat the air again to a comfortable 20 degrees. With these devices it is possible to save on heating without reducing the level of comfort.

Thermal heads are also divided according to the type of temperature agent (the substance that is in the bellows). They are:

  • liquid;
  • gas.

A gas thermostat is considered less inertial; they say it reacts faster to temperature changes. But the difference is not so big as to give preference to one particular type. The main thing is the quality, not the type of temperature agent. Liquid thermostats are no less quality. Moreover, they are easier to manufacture, therefore they are produced in a wider range.

When choosing a thermocouple, you need to pay attention to the temperature range that the device can support. Usually it is from +6 o C to +26-28 o C. But there may be differences. The wider the range, the higher the price. The dimensions and design, as well as the connection method, also change.

Thermal valve for heating radiator: classification

Now let's talk about the lower part of the thermostat - the valve (valve). First of all, you need to know that the industry produces control devices for different systems. And you only need to use devices for your system.

Devices for have at least twice the hydraulic resistance than for single-pipe ones. This was done on purpose, since balancing in this case occurs due to the pressure drop across the valves. That is why devices with a small flow area are installed. If you put such a device in, you will probably freeze. Therefore, be careful.

Sometimes modifications for single-pipe systems are positioned as devices for systems with. They have reduced hydraulic resistance and can be used in single-tubes.

In a one-pipe system, install thermostats with a flow capacity of at least 3 (Kvs=3 and higher).

Depending on the method of pipe installation, radiator temperature regulators are either angular or straight (through). There are also axial models. In this case, they are chosen depending on the type of connection of the heating device. If the pipe approaches from the side, it is more convenient to install a straight valve, if from below - one of the corner ones.

Thermal valves also differ in the material from which they are made. Metals that have good corrosion resistance are used. Some of them also have an additional protective coating applied (usually nickel or chrome plating). So, thermostatic valves are made from:

  • bronze, nickel-plated and chrome-plated;
  • brass, nickel plated;
  • stainless steel

It is clear that stainless steel is better, but such valves cost a lot and are rarely found on sale.

Installing a thermostat on a radiator

Radiator thermostats are installed mainly on the supply before entering the heating device. Each of the valves allows coolant to flow in one direction. An arrow on the body shows where the flow should move. The coolant should flow exactly there. If connected incorrectly, the device will not work. Another question is that you can install a thermostat both at the inlet and outlet, but respecting the direction of flow. And in both cases they work the same.

Options for connecting and installing control valves. But to be able to repair the radiator without stopping the system, you need to install a ball valve before the regulator (click on the picture to enlarge its size)

It is worth paying attention to the manufacturer's recommendations regarding installation height. Most models should be at a height of 40-60 cm from the floor. They are calibrated to temperatures at this level. But not everywhere the supply is top. Radiators often have a bottom connection. Then, in addition to the type of system (one-pipe or two-pipe), select the installation height. If such a model is not found, you can set the temperature on the thermal head to a lower temperature. If you set the recommended one, it will be too hot, since the air below, near the floor, is cooler, and the model is configured to maintain the temperature measured at the height of the upper edge of the radiator. The second option is to configure the device yourself. The procedure is usually described in the passport, and the most common sequence of actions is described below. And the third option is to install a thermostat with a remote sensor on the battery. Then it makes absolutely no difference at what height the thermal head is located. The main thing is the location of the sensor. But such models are much more expensive. If this is critical, it is better to adjust the regulator.

Please note that the thermostatic head must be turned horizontally(look into the room). If it is welded upward, it is constantly in the flow of hot air that comes from the pipe. Therefore, the substance in the bellows is almost always heated, and the radiator is turned off. The result is that the room is cold.

For the device to work correctly, you need to install it “head” into the room

The situation is a little better if the battery is installed in a niche, closed or curtained. The thermoelement is also “hot”, but not so much. Here you can go two ways: either set a higher temperature on the regulator, or use a remote sensor. Models with remote thermal controllers, of course, are not cheap, but you can choose the control point at your discretion.

What else you need to remember: when installing in a single-pipe system, a bypass is required. Moreover, it is unregulated. Then, when the supply to the radiator is closed, the riser will not be blocked, and you will not receive “hello” from your neighbors.

Thermal valves also differ in the type of connection: some have union nuts, some have crimp nuts. Accordingly, they are connected to one or another type of pipe. Typically, the specification or description of the product will indicate the type of connection, as well as what pipes it can be used with.

Regulator setting

In order for the device to work correctly and maintain the desired temperature, it is necessary to carry out preliminary settings. When the heating is on in the room, close the doors, install a thermometer where you think it is correct to monitor the temperature. Now let's start setting up:

  • Open the coolant flow completely. This is done by turning the thermal head all the way to the left.
  • The temperature will begin to rise. When it becomes 5-6 o C higher, move on to the next point.
  • Shut off the coolant flow by turning the thermostat head to the right until it stops. The room will gradually become cooler.
  • When the desired temperature is reached, begin to gradually open the valve. As soon as you hear that the coolant is noisy and the body becomes warm to the touch, stop rotating. This will be the position of the thermal heads at which a comfortable temperature for you will be maintained. Usually there are marks on the cap - numbers - you can use them to navigate.

Adjusting the thermostat is a simple procedure, but it is what allows you to calibrate it to your requirements. For the most part the sequence is standard, but sometimes it may differ. Then the entire sequence of actions should be described in the product passport. Some companies have even made videos that clearly demonstrate how to install and adjust their products.

Results

Temperature controllers for radiators can be with three types of heads: manual, mechanical and electronic. Any species can only lower the temperature; it cannot increase it.

Intelligent boiler thermostat

The efficiency and quality of operation of the heating system of a country house depend on the correct adjustment of the temperature of the coolant in the heating system. Too low a water or antifreeze temperature will result in the house not being heated and possibly even freezing. Too high a temperature leads to overheating (if there are no thermostatic valves on the heating radiators), or to overload of the circulation pump (if there are thermostatic regulators, they overlap and prevent circulation). In addition, there is an increased and completely unjustified energy consumption. And this means environmental pollution and unnecessary costs.

Constantly adjusting the temperature of the coolant on the heating boiler itself is quite cumbersome, even if you are in the house every day. If you leave for several days, then adjustment becomes impossible at all.

I set myself and successfully solved the problem of developing a device that automatically sets the coolant temperature depending on running conditions (air temperature outside the building).

Here is a selection of materials:

P practice of electronic circuit design. The art of device design. Element base. Typical schemes. Examples of finished devices. Detailed descriptions. Online payment. Opportunity to ask questions to the authors

Operating principle of automatic temperature controller

Since heat flow is proportional to the temperature difference and inversely proportional to the thermal resistance between regions with these temperatures, the following relation is true: [ Heat flow] = ([Room temperature] – [Outdoor temperature]) / = ([Coolant temperature in the boiler] – [Room temperature]) /

This ratio is correct, since the heat does not disappear anywhere. All thermal energy that comes from the boiler is ultimately dissipated into the environment.

So the temperature in the boiler must be maintained in such a way that the given ratio is correct for the air temperature in the room we need

All the above arguments are very approximately correct. However, the errors are small and are easily compensated for by thermostatic valves on heating devices. These valves can also be used to set different temperatures in different rooms. In any case, the coolant temperature will not be too high.

A primitive version of a smart thermostat circuit

This and the following schemes can be used with automatic boilers that operate on mains voltage, turn off when it is absent and automatically turn on when it appears, and consume up to 400 W. These are gas boilers with a turbo burner, diesel boilers, boilers using dark heating oil and waste oil. To work with an electric boiler, it is necessary to use a more powerful switching device in the circuit; if the boiler has three phases, then three-phase.

To begin with, I used this mechanism. I installed a bronze rod with a diameter of 2 cm. One end of the rod was smeared with heat-conducting paste and rested on the pipe coming out of the top of the boiler (heated water outlet). The second end was led out into the street through a hole in the wall and there it was screwed to a metal plate 4 mm thick and with an area of ​​100 square meters. cm. The length of the rod should be short (about 30 cm). A thermistor was secured in the area of ​​the middle of the rod. A thermistor, the resistance of which decreases with increasing temperature, is connected to the circuit shown below. The rod was wrapped with penofol for thermal insulation. For the circuit to work properly, the rod should not dissipate heat along its length, only through the radiator at the street end.

D1– operational amplifier with high input impedance, for example, 544UD1

R1– 47 kOhm thermistor, which reduces resistance as the temperature rises.

Resistor R5 provides a small hysteresis. It should be selected so that the interval between turning the boiler on and off is 10 degrees.

Diode VD2– HER208.

Zener diode VD1– 3.6 volts 1 W.

Relay with a switching voltage of 12 volts, permissible switching voltage of at least 250 volts alternating current.

The device is powered by a stabilized voltage of 12 volts. I am using a computer power supply.

The plug in the diagram is connected to a 220 volt network. The socket is intended for connecting a heating boiler.

The resulting design simulates the entire heating system. With its help, we stabilize the temperature at the point of attachment of the thermistor. If the thermistor is fixed so that [ distance along the rod to the street] / [distance along the rod to the boiler]= [Total thermal resistance from the boiler to the room air] / [Total thermal resistance from indoor air to outdoor air], then the temperature at this point will be equal to the air temperature in the room. So we stabilize the temperature in the room, which is what we need.

Controlling your home's heating with a heating temperature controller

The need to purchase a device

In order to understand why you need to use heating temperature regulators, you need to remember the structure of utility costs. Let's imagine the summer months - a certain part of the costs goes to paying bills for rent, water and gas, but the majority is taken up by relatively expensive electricity. However, in winter everything changes - a decrease in air temperature brings heating payments to the forefront, regardless of its type and arrangement. And this is fair, because you cannot save on your own health, which also depends on the presence of a comfortable temperature in the room. However, this applies to winter, but what happens in the warmer autumn and spring months?

As a rule, the heating system during this period operates with the same performance as in winter. This is fundamentally incorrect, since in this case the owner incurs increased costs for the production of unnecessary heat, and also incurs losses due to increased wear and tear of the boilers. In order to prevent such a negative effect, thermostats were developed to change the heating temperature in a particular room. Such a regulator is a device that is capable of changing the operating parameters of the heating device, as well as changing the configuration of the circuit depending on certain factors.

Thanks to this, it becomes possible to significantly reduce power consumption in the heating system, reducing the cost of purchasing energy resources, as well as preventing premature breakdown of boilers. In addition, using a heating temperature regulator, which you can install with your own hands on a certain section of the main line, you can completely disconnect your batteries from the general circuit. As a result, you will get a significant reduction in room temperature. This will also give you the opportunity to remove the batteries for replacement or maintenance without stopping the entire heating complex.

There are a huge number of varieties in which thermostats are produced. In order to understand which regulator is most rational to use in each specific case, it is necessary to consider their main groups.

Mechanical water heating regulators

As a rule, a mechanical regulator is a valve with manual control, which is carried out by turning a special head. There are divisions on the handle that indicate the degree of accessibility of the pipeline for the coolant. Zero means that the battery is completely disconnected from the heating system, and 6,9,10, MAX (depending on the manufacturer) means free flow of water, providing a significant increase in temperature. Using intermediate divisions marked on thermostats, you can achieve the optimal temperature in the room, and when using several radiators at once, you can achieve separate “climate zones”.

Of course, this control principle can only be used in two-pipe, radiant or “Leningrad” heating systems, since, by reducing the power consumption for heating the battery, the regulator shuts off the water supply, which in single-pipe systems passes sequentially through all heating devices. The result of blocking normal circulation will be a complete shutdown of the heating system in the entire house, and in the case of using a hydraulic pump, an uncontrolled increase in pressure, leading to an accident. The mechanical regulator should be installed in two-pipe circuits and their analogues directly in front of the battery or in the branch section after exiting the central line.

Note! When installing a mechanical regulator in a Leningradka, it is worth calculating in advance the possibility of unhindered coolant flow through the bypass pipeline. If its characteristics do not allow it to work with the complete shutdown of several batteries while maintaining normal pressure, you should refrain from using it.

The advantages of mechanical type devices are obvious. With their help, you can precisely regulate the temperature in each room separately, ensuring the formation of individual climate zones. Moreover, their number can significantly exceed the number of rooms in the house. However, such a regulator also has its drawbacks. In addition to the impossibility of use in single-pipe circuits described above, constant monitoring of pressure is required, which can increase significantly when most heating devices are turned off. In addition, if the ambient temperature changes, you will have to go through the entire house, again changing the operating mode of each of the system elements.

Electrical and electronic systems

Simple digital option

Recently, automatic and semi-automatic heating temperature control systems, which are electrically driven thermostats, have become increasingly popular. Such devices are divided into two categories:

  • One includes those designed to control the temperature of a battery or a separate branch of the highway.
  • In the other - necessary for adjusting the power of boilers, on which the efficiency of the closed heating circuit also depends.

In addition, among them there are simple thermostatic devices and those controlled by electronics, which provides the ability to program the operating modes of the system.

A conventional electrical regulator for a radiator or separate ring works on the same principle as a mechanical device. The difference is that it can automatically change the valve position to maintain a constant temperature set by the user. And this is its main advantage. The disadvantages include limited exposure and the need for a constant connection to the power supply.

The thermostatic device needed to control the temperature of boilers is fundamentally different from it. In it, changing the heating characteristics is achieved not by adjusting the volume of the coolant, but by changing the fuel supply to the combustion chamber or the power of the electric heater. Thanks to this, it can quickly change the performance of the entire pipeline when the weather or air temperature changes. And also to be used in a single-circuit scheme, which does not allow the pipeline to be blocked even in one section.

Attention! In a water heating system, all electrical appliances must be carefully grounded to avoid causing damage to human health.

The electronically controlled regulator can be a topic for a separate study, but we will consider its main capabilities in a nutshell. The use of a complex circuit consisting of modern technology and software allows it to smoothly change the boiler power or the position of the valves that determine the coolant flow rate according to a given program.

In addition, it can autonomously control the heating system, analyzing indicators such as:

  • Season.
  • Times of Day.
  • Humidity.
  • Ambient temperature.
  • Presence of people in the room (using motion sensors).

Heating temperature regulator, its types, applications and do-it-yourself installation


To ensure the high efficiency of your heating system, do not forget to install a heating temperature regulator. It will significantly reduce energy costs.

Installing a DHW temperature controller

An automatic temperature controller will ensure rational heat consumption and stable hot water temperature.

The OTOS company is ready to carry out a full range of work on installing a water temperature regulator in a heating point of a hot water supply system.

  • We will develop and approve the project
  • We will supply equipment and materials
  • Install a water temperature regulator
  • Let's start the DHW system and set up the regulator
  • We will conclude a maintenance contract

The regulator installation project is carried out by certified specialists with many years of experience. All projects are developed individually, and the selection is accompanied by detailed calculations.

The installation of a temperature regulator in a hot water supply system will be carried out by an experienced team using modern tools and materials. Installed equipment, materials and work performed are provided with a two-year guarantee.

How does a regulator maintain water temperature?

The regulator valve is installed on the supply pipeline of the heating network in front of the heat exchanger (boiler), and the temperature sensor is installed at the outlet of the heated water from the heat exchanger.

The sensor measures the temperature of the heated water at the entrance to the hot water supply system and transmits a control signal to the control valve drive to increase or decrease the flow of heating fluid. When the set temperature is exceeded, the regulator shuts off the heating flow, and when it is too low, it opens it.

Types of water temperature controllers

Direct acting temperature controller

The temperature sensor of such a regulator is a canister filled with gas and connected by a pulse tube to a bellows drive. The gas heats up in the temperature sensor (canister) and expands, and accordingly, the pressure in it and in the drive increases - the drive bellows opens and presses on the regulator rod, blocking the flow. When cooled, the opposite effect occurs.

Direct-acting temperature controllers operate without external power sources, but have a limited temperature range and cannot be programmed to maintain different temperatures depending on the day of the week or time of day.

Programmable temperature controller

Consists of a sensor, controller, electric actuator and control valve. The sensor transmits temperature data to the controller, which checks the measured temperature with the specified setting and, if it deviates, generates a control signal for the electric drive that closes or opens the control valve.

Programmable regulators are powered from an external network, maintain water temperature with greater accuracy and can provide different temperatures depending on the day of the week and time of day.

How much can you reduce your hot water costs?

Excess heat consumption in a DHW system whose water heating installation is not equipped with a temperature controller can reach 30% . At the same time, during the absence of water withdrawal and, accordingly, heat removal, the hot coolant from the supply pipeline of the heating network flows into the return pipeline, which is not allowed under the conditions of heat supply in centralized heating networks and entails the imposition of a fine and an increase in heat losses from the pipelines.

Installing a DHW temperature controller


The OTOS company will install an automatic water temperature controller at the heating point of the hot water supply system, develop and approve the project, carry out installation, launch and configure

Adjusting the temperature of heating radiators

The question of adjusting the temperature of heating radiators arises when, during the heating season, the temperature in the room does not satisfy the people in it. This mainly applies not only to apartment buildings with central heating, where it often becomes unbearably hot, especially in the off-season. But private houses with individual heating also need the ability to adjust heating radiators.

So the temperature in different rooms of a residential building must vary for comfortable living. For example, the bedroom should be cooler than, for example, the living room. Therefore, already at the stage of design and installation of the heating system, it should be possible to do this. And if this has not been done, then it must be done if necessary.

But before you start upgrading your heating system, you need to understand one thing. Adjustment of radiators from the initial temperature is only possible in the direction of lowering the temperature. It is impossible to raise it higher than what was set by the regulators.

How to increase the output power of a radiator

The output power of radiators can only be increased by increasing the temperature of the coolant. Or changing radiators to more efficient ones (replacing old, clogged, cast-iron ones with modern bimetallic, aluminum, steel, etc.). Replacing the radiator supply pipes with new ones, adding additional sections to the installed batteries and a number of other factors influencing this. Even the way the radiator is connected to the heating system will depend on its temperature.

Therefore, from the above, it becomes clear that, for example, if in your apartment, which has centralized heating, the radiators do not fully cope with their task, then it will not be possible for you to raise the temperature of the coolant, since you are not doing this and cannot do this . Therefore, it is better to pay attention to the quality of the radiators themselves or, for example, to the insulation of windows and the entire apartment as a whole. Perhaps it would be more rational to invest money on new double-glazed windows. In a private house with individual heating, please regulate the water temperature in the system with a heating boiler, but again, the quality of home insulation is a fundamental factor in a warm home. Perhaps your heating system is normal and by adding a boiler, you will spend money on energy resources.

What does adjusting the temperature of radiators affect?

As you already know, regulating the temperature of the battery means setting it in the temperature range, from the radiator being completely turned off, to the maximum temperature when it was without a regulator (if the system is old) or the maximum power declared by the radiator manufacturer (if the heating system is new and complied with all conditions favorable to these indicators). That is, by lowering the temperature of the radiators, you will save money on heating a private home. And apartments too, if you have a heat meter.

Here, we think, there is no point in saying much, since the fundamental idea of ​​the very idea of ​​​​having adjustable heating radiators is related to comfort. That is why you are most likely here and reading this page.

Therefore, we won’t torment you any longer and move directly to the topic of how to make heating batteries adjustable.

The temperature of the radiators is regulated due to the speed at which the coolant passes through it. This speed can be adjusted either by manual regulators or by automatic regulators.

Manual regulators

Manual adjustment is made by a valve installed on the pipes supplying or discharging the coolant from the battery. The diagram, depending on the type of heating system (two-pipe or single-pipe), is slightly different:

Everything is simple here, it gets hot - close the valve, cold - open it.

Please note that a bypass is required for a single-pipe heating system. It is needed so that if the radiator valve is completely closed, the batteries located further down the system will not be left without hot coolant. This is especially true if we are talking about an apartment building, where, if this happens, you will have an unpleasant conversation with your neighbors located down the riser, and also possibly with the management company if they discover the reason for the cold apartments in your building.

The radiator is additionally equipped with another valve so that if a leak appears on the radiator, it can be repaired or the radiator can be replaced without shutting down the entire system.

How not to regulate the radiator temperature

Perhaps we need to focus your attention on one important thing. That to adjust radiators you need to install valves, not ball valves.

Often, two ball valves are installed on radiators in case of emergency situations when this area requires urgent repairs. These taps make it possible to carry out repairs without draining the heating system or shutting off the common riser of the house. Some regulate batteries with them. This is not worth doing.

Ball valves are shut-off valves; they have only two operating positions, open or closed. It does not have any intermediate working positions. Yes, it will reduce the rate of coolant passing through the radiator as much as you need it. But his days will be numbered. The fact is that when the position of this tap is between “open” and “closed”, the ball, covered with a protective layer, begins to be destroyed by small particles in the form of sand, scale, rust, located in the coolant. Especially in central heating coolant. In places where the layer is damaged, lime deposits, rust, etc. begin to be deposited.
As a result, the faucet handle and the ball first stop spinning, and then begin to leak altogether. Which will lead to a situation where it will be necessary to drain all the water from the heating system and shut off the riser of the house, because the tap that was designed for this no longer works.

Which valves to use for adjustment

To regulate the temperature of heating radiators, special radiator control valves are used. They are specifically designed for use in heating systems, both individual and central. They are resistant to coolant containing solid particles and are also capable of high throughput. They exist with both direct and angular connections.

These valves are reliable, durable, affordable, and effectively cope with their intended purpose. The only disadvantage of manual regulators is periodic monitoring and adjustment. You have to tighten it from time to time, sometimes to a greater or lesser degree, depending on the climate outside, the temperature of the coolant and the room.

Automatic regulators

Man by nature is a creature who constantly tries to make his life easier, including everyday life. Therefore, along with manual radiator regulators, there are also automatic ones.

The advantage of automatic regulators is that once you have set the desired battery temperature, you can forget about adjusting again for a long time.

Automatic adjustment is carried out using thermostats and three-way valves.

Adjustment by thermostats

Thermostatic temperature controllers for heating radiators have many names, but the essence does not change. You need to understand for yourself that the automatic regulator is divided into two main parts:

Thermostatic valve (thermovalve)

Thermostatic head (thermal head)

When we talked about manual control valves, they already have a thermal valve as such. Therefore, if necessary, you can turn your manual radiator valve into an automatic one at any time by purchasing an additional thermal head and screwing it onto the thermal valve without any problems.

When, as a thermal valve, there are no wide differences in design features, thermal heads are represented by a wide selection and functionality. From simple ones to thermal heads with a remote room temperature sensor and electronic control. Perhaps the choice is limited only by the consumer’s wallet.

Simple thermal heads do not require electrical power. They work using a special capsule containing liquid or gas. The contents of the capsule expand or contract as the temperature changes and presses with a certain force on the thermal valve rod, changing the rate of coolant flow into the radiator.

More expensive thermal heads equipped with a display require a power supply in the form of a battery, but, as a rule, one battery lasts for a long time. They may also require constant power from the network, for example, if there is a “smart home” system

Adjustment by three-way valves

The use of a three-way valve to regulate the temperature of radiators is rare in practice, since if you compare the price of one “three-way valve” and a conventional radiator regulator, the latter will cost less. But still, a few words need to be written about this method.

A three-way valve is installed on the radiator supply pipe, however, the following diagram visually shows this:

The same thermal head, which was already mentioned above, is screwed onto the three-way valve, on which the necessary parameters are set.
As soon as the coolant temperature approaches the set value, the three-way valve begins to pass water through the bypass, past the radiator.

Perhaps this is all the comprehensive material on the topic of adjusting the heating radiators of an apartment and private building. We hope you found it helpful.

Adjusting the temperature of heating radiators


Adjusting the temperature of heating radiators using manual and automatic regulators, valves, thermostat, three-way mixing valve.

In the countries of the post-Soviet space, up to 40% of energy resources are spent on the needs of heating and ventilation of buildings, this is several times more than in advanced European countries. The issue of energy saving is more pressing than ever, especially against the backdrop of the constant increase in energy costs. One of the devices that allows you to save thermal energy in the house is a battery thermostat, whose installation can reduce heat consumption by up to 20%. But to do this, it is necessary to correctly select the regulators for the heating system and install them, which will be discussed in this article.

Working principle of thermostatic valve

The first thermostats for radiators, designed to maintain a constant temperature in the room, were invented back in 1943 by DANFOSS, which also holds the lead in the market for the production and sale of such devices. For this reason, our article will be based on materials and recommendations from DANFOSS, whose many years of experience are beyond doubt.

Over the years since their invention, thermostats for radiators have changed and become as we know them. Structurally, they consist of two main elements: a valve and a thermal head, connected to each other by a locking mechanism. The purpose of the thermal head is to perceive the ambient temperature and, to regulate it, act on the actuator - the valve, which blocks the flow of coolant entering the heating device.

This control method is called quantitative, since the device affects the flow of coolant passing into the radiator. There is another method - qualitative, with its help the temperature of the water in the system changes. This is carried out by a temperature controller (mixing unit) installed in the boiler room or heating point.

To understand the principle of operation of the thermal head, it is proposed to study the diagram of the device shown in section:

Inside the element body there is a bellows filled with a heat-sensitive medium. It comes in two types:

  • liquid;
  • gas.

Liquid bellows are easier to manufacture, but they are inferior to gas bellows in terms of speed, so the latter have become very widespread. So, when the air temperature rises, the substance in a closed space expands, the bellows stretches and presses on the valve stem. This, in turn, moves down a special cone, which reduces the flow area of ​​the valve. As a result, coolant consumption decreases. When the surrounding air is cooled, everything happens in the reverse order, the amount of flowing water increases to a maximum, this is the principle of operation of the thermostat.

Depending on the type of heating system and the installation conditions of the device, valve-thermal head kits in various combinations can be used to control the flow of coolant. In single-pipe heating systems, it is recommended to install valves with increased flow capacity and low hydraulic resistance (DANFOSS product markings are RA-G, RA-KE, RA-KEW).

The same recommendation applies to two-pipe gravity systems, where the coolant circulates naturally, without forced stimulation. If the heating circuit is two-pipe with a circulation pump, then you should choose a valve with the ability to adjust the flow capacity (DANFOSS markings - RA-N, RA-K, RA-KW). This adjustment is quite simple and does not require a special tool.

When the issue of valve selection has been resolved, you need to decide on the type of thermal head. They are offered in the following versions:

  1. With an internal thermoelement (as in the diagram presented above).
  2. With remote temperature sensor.
  3. With external regulator.
  4. Electronic (programmable).
  5. Anti-vandal.

A conventional thermostat for heating radiators with an internal sensor is accepted for installation if it is possible to position its axis horizontally so that the room air freely flows around the body of the device, as shown in the figure:

Attention! It is not allowed to install the thermostat on the battery in a vertical position; the heat flow rising from the supply pipe and valve body will affect the bellows, as a result of which the device will not work correctly.

If horizontal installation of the head is not possible, then it is better to purchase an external temperature sensor for it, complete with a capillary tube 2 m long. It is at this distance from the radiator that this device can be placed by attaching it to the wall:

In addition to vertical installation, there are other objective reasons for purchasing a remote sensor:

  • heating radiators with temperature controllers are located behind thick curtains;
  • in the immediate vicinity of the thermal head there are pipes with hot water or there is another heat source;
  • the battery stands under a wide window sill;
  • the internal thermoelement enters the draft zone.

In rooms with high demands on the interior, batteries are often hidden under decorative screens made of various materials. In such cases, a thermostat trapped under the casing registers the temperature of the hot air accumulating in the upper zone and can completely shut off the coolant. Moreover, access to the head control is completely blocked. In this situation, the choice should be made in favor of an external regulator combined with a sensor. Options for its placement are shown in the figure:

Electronic thermostats with a display also come in two types: with built-in and removable control unit. The latter differs in that the electronic unit is disconnected from the thermal head, after which it continues to function as usual. The purpose of such devices is to regulate the temperature in the room according to the time of day in accordance with the program. This allows heating power to be reduced during working hours, when no one is home and in other similar cases, which leads to additional energy savings.

When there are small children in the house who want to try everything with their own hands, it is better to install a vandal-proof thermostat with a casing that protects the device settings from unqualified intervention. This also applies to thermostats located in other public buildings: kindergartens, schools, hospitals, and so on.

How to install a thermostat on a battery

The first recommendation is not to place thermal heads on all heaters within sight. Here the rule is as follows: radiators whose total power is 50% or more of all those in the same room should be subject to regulation. For example, when there are 2 heaters in a room, then 1 battery, whose power is greater, should be equipped with a thermostat.

Advice. If cast iron radiators are used as heating devices, then maintaining the microclimate using thermostatic valves will be ineffective. The fact is that the operation of cast iron batteries is very inertial; after cutting off the flow of coolant, they radiate heat for a long time and, conversely, accelerate for a long time. There is no point in installing valves; you will only waste your time and money.

It is recommended to install the first part of the device - the valve - on the inlet supply pipeline when connecting the radiator to the heating system. If it needs to be embedded into the assembled system, the supply line will have to be dismantled. This will cause some difficulties if the connection is made with steel pipes; you will need a tool for cutting pipes and tapping threads.

After the thermostat is installed on the heating battery, the thermal head is mounted without any tools. Simply align the marks on the housings and gently press to lock the head in the socket. The signal will be a click of the locking mechanism.

It is a little more difficult to install an anti-vandal thermostat; for this you will need a 2 mm hex key. Having aligned the required marks, as shown in the diagram, you need to press the thermal head and tighten the fixing bolt located on the side with a hexagon.

Installation of the remote sensor and regulator is carried out on a section of the wall free from interior parts and furniture, placing them at a height of 1.2-1.6 m from the floor, as shown in the diagram:

First, the mounting plate is attached to the wall with dowels, and then the housing is snapped onto it with a simple press. The capillary tube is secured to the wall with plastic clamps; as a rule, they come with the product.

In addition to the standard temperature control, the heads provide adjustment of the thermostat to maximum and minimum limits, beyond which turning the wheel will become impossible. For this purpose, there are limiting pins located at the rear of the product. You need to pull out one of them and, after debugging the system, insert it into the hole under the corresponding mark:

Conclusion

Selecting a thermostat is not a difficult task; it is important to understand what kind of heating system the valve is being purchased for and to know where it will be located. Programmable devices are definitely recommended as the most economical.

It makes sense to install a thermostat on batteries of any type, with the exception of cast iron - they are characterized by high thermal inertia, which makes the adjustment ineffective.

Thermostat for radiator

Adjustment features

The radiator is heated due to the circulation of liquid heated by the heating boiler. The coolant transfers a significant part of the thermal energy to the heating device, which warms up the air in the room.

The less hot liquid passes through the battery per unit time, the less it heats up. The principle of quantitative regulation underlies the functioning of the thermostat. Before the invention of the thermostatic valve, a plumbing valve was used for this purpose.

Note! The ball valve is designed to operate in only two positions - fully open and fully closed. When using a ball valve as a valve to regulate the flow of coolant, it will quickly fail.

The operating principle of a modern thermostatic valve is the same as that of a valve - a special device in the body limits or completely blocks the flow of coolant. The main difference lies in the control principles - in the case of using a plumbing valve, the temperature of the batteries has to be adjusted by turning the knob, while the thermostat for a heating radiator works without human intervention, it is enough to install and configure it correctly.

Thermostat design

The thermostat is a valve equipped with a thermal head that controls its operation.

Valves differ in body design; depending on the characteristics of the installation location, the valve used is:

  • standard straight;
  • corner horizontal;
  • corner vertical;
  • angular, in which the head and pipes are located along three perpendicular axes (left and right version).
Note! Valves for a single-pipe heating system (marked with the letter G) are characterized by increased flow capacity, which is why their body has a larger volume. They are also suitable for two-pipe natural circulation systems. If the system is equipped with a pump for forced circulation of coolant, valves marked with the letters N or D are required; they are designed for high pressure.

The corrosion resistant alloy body contains a valve seat that can be completely closed by the poppet valve when it is fully lowered. When the height of the plate is changed, the amount of liquid passing through the valve per unit of time changes.


Temperature controller device

The poppet is attached to a rod, which is driven by a pusher pin, its upper part protruding from the valve body. In the standard version, the pin is covered with a cap. It is removed and the selected valve control mechanism is installed.

Important! It is recommended to install valves made of brass, stainless steel, and bronze. Silumin is fragile and unreliable. When choosing a product, also pay attention to the installation dimensions of the nozzles - they must correspond to the parameters of the pipeline.

Selection of control mechanism

The thermostat for radiators must be equipped with a suitable control mechanism:

  • locking handle;
  • bellows-type thermal head;
  • head with servo drive;
  • electronic thermal head.

Locking handle

It turns the thermostat into a regular valve. The handle is usually used when it is necessary to reliably close the valve for repair work or to replace a heating device. It can be considered as a removable auxiliary attribute.

Thermal head with bellows

Looking at a disassembled thermostat, you can see a bellows - an elastic container filled with a liquid or gas with high temperature sensitivity. If the air temperature in the area of ​​the thermal head rises, the bellows expands and presses on the pusher pin, causing the poppet valve to move down. When the bellows cools, the reverse process occurs. A thermostat of this type installed on a radiator is non-volatile; it is enough to adjust it once, and the heating level of the battery will be maintained automatically with fairly high accuracy.

Servo head

The valve stem moves up or down a miniature electric motor, which receives appropriate signals from an electronic control unit. This system allows for very precise control of the heating of the coolant. The installation requires cable installation to power the motor and transmit control signals. The device is suitable for use as part of a smart home complex.

Electronic thermal head

A heating device equipped with an electronic thermal head changes the level of heating of the room depending on the set program. For example, work during the day in an economical mode and heat the air to the required values ​​when the owners of the house arrive from work. This thermal head with an electronic display operates autonomously; power is provided by batteries.

Installing a thermostat on a heating radiator

Let's look at how to install and configure a thermal head with a bellows - this is the most popular option due to its affordable cost.

Most thermal valves have a thread in the upper part for an M30x15 nut - it is with its help that an automatic mechanical thermal head is installed. Its stationary part is attached to the valve body, and the upper part rotates freely around its axis. The plastic head has holes in it to allow air to enter the bellows, causing it to contract or expand.


Installed thermostat

Installation of the thermal valve is carried out at the stage of connecting the heating radiator to the pipeline. It is placed on the supply pipe, fixed with an “American” adapter - such a connection can be easily disassembled if necessary. The direction of coolant flow is indicated on the body of the device - this must be taken into account. Before installation, study the product data sheet - if the thermal valve does not have the function of completely blocking the flow, a ball valve must be installed on the supply pipe before it.

Note! The thermal head must be positioned horizontally, otherwise the heated air rising from the radiator will constantly act on the bellows.

The valve is connected to the battery with a free pipe. Then the protective cap is removed from the thermal valve and the bellows thermal head is installed by tightening the corresponding nut with a spanner. If the model provides a snap-in installation, the head must be turned to the “max” position, placed and pressed until it clicks.


Correct position of the thermal head

After installation, configuration is performed. The position of the rod, pusher pin and bellows relative to the thermal valve body can be changed by rotating the movable part of the head. It has a temperature scale and a reference mark, which makes it possible to set the required temperature with an accuracy of a degree. The appropriate operating mode for the battery is determined by practice.

Important! Manufacturers of thermal heads offer various pre-setting options - using pins or a special key, the permissible temperature range of the radiator is set immediately after installation. This avoids problems associated with overheating of the premises or complete cooling of the system as a result of the intervention of small children or due to accidental contact with the moving part of the thermal head.

There are different versions of the thermal head.
If the radiator is blocked by thick curtains, furniture or structures, when installing the regulator, you can use a thermal head with a remote sensor-probe. The sensor, connected to the bellows by a capillary tube, is placed at a distance of up to 2 meters from the battery.

The thermostat for the heating battery can also be equipped with a remote control panel, which can be mounted in any convenient place. This model is equipped with two bellows (on the valve and in the control panel), connected by a capillary tube.

Installing a thermostat is not difficult to do yourself if we are talking about an autonomous heating system. In a house with central heating, this is possible in a situation where a ball valve is installed on the supply pipe after the bypass. Otherwise, you need to call specialists and agree to temporarily shut off the coolant supply through the riser.

The issue of saving energy resources is one of the most pressing today. This is especially true for owners of private houses and cottages.

The constant increase in electricity prices makes us think about how to organize the heating system in the most efficient way. Maintaining a comfortable microclimate in all rooms of the house plays an important role.

Owners of apartments in multi-storey buildings also often face this problem. Often in winter, people have to open windows to achieve optimal indoor temperature. To solve these problems, there is shut-off and control equipment for batteries.

The problem of emergency shutdown can be solved using a conventional ball valve. But they cannot regulate the temperature. Moreover, it is short-lived.

The most effective device for regulating temperature at present is a thermostat with a thermostat.

Thermostats- these are special devices that are designed to maintain specified temperature parameters.

Radiator regulators allow you to adjust the parameters of each room of the house throughout the day. In addition, the devices help cope with emergency situations. They allow you to shut off the heat supply to each section of the heating system.

Regulators can be mounted on almost any type of battery - steel, bimetallic, aluminum. Cast iron batteries are not suitable for this.

Varieties

Thermostats are classified according to the working substance of the thermal head and the method of regulation.

There are 2 adjustment methods:

  • manual (mechanical);
  • automatic with mechanical control;
  • automatic with electrical control;

The following is used as a working substance:

  • gas (gas-filled);
  • liquid (liquid);

With manual adjustment


These are the simplest and most inexpensive devices for temperature control. Adjustment is carried out by turning the valve, which has a measuring scale.

The numbers indicate the degree of valve closure. It is impossible to determine the temperature from them. Therefore, only approximate adjustments are possible with it. The number "0" means that the valve is completely closed. The temperature can only be changed by rotating the valve to the right or left.

Automatic with mechanical control


The device consists of several components:

  • thermostatic valve;
  • thermostatic heads.
  • rod with spool;
  • thermostatic element (filled with gas or liquid);
  • scale for setting parameters;
  • compensation mechanism;
  • fasteners;

The temperature can change throughout the day under the influence of solar heat, drafts, and external sources of cold or heat. The principle of operation of the regulator is to adjust the passage when the parameters of the external environment change.

The thermostatic element (bellows) changes its volume when the temperature changes. An increase in temperature causes an increase in the volume of liquid or gas inside the bellows.

The bellows itself expands and begins to put pressure on the rod. At the same time, the rod begins to move, the spool regulates the flow of coolant into the battery. When the temperature drops, the volume of the bellows decreases, the compensation mechanism is activated and the valve opens.

No additional power source is required for such devices. They use the energy of the sensitive element.

Before operation, mechanical regulators must be adjusted. It is necessary to set the maximum battery heating temperature. The adjustment is made by adjusting the regulator throttle mechanism on the battery inlet or check valves.

Automatic with electrical control

This is a more advanced device. It is designed to create and maintain a given microclimate using automatic control of all elements of the heating system - valves, pumps, etc.

Unlike a mechanical regulator, this device regulates based on a signal from an external temperature sensor. Instead of a bellows, an electromagnetic relay is used.

The relay core presses on the rod, which acts on the valve. The signal from the temperature sensor goes through the control unit to the electromagnetic relay. The necessary parameters are set on the control unit, which are subsequently supported automatically.

Regulators using closed and open logic

  1. Closed is a rigidly defined and constant operating algorithm. You can only change some of the parameters.
  2. Open The logic allows you to freely change the entire range of device settings to suit any customer requirements. To operate such devices, certain qualifications are required. Therefore, such regulators are used more in industrial production.

For domestic use, regulators using closed logic are more often used. Its capabilities are sufficient to maintain a comfortable temperature.

Also, electronic thermostats are widely used in design, similar to mechanical controls, but with an electronic display.

The necessary parameters (temperature range) are set on it. The task of the device is to maintain the temperature within specified limits. Such devices require an additional power source. They work using batteries (accumulators).

Regulators controlled by external temperature sensors are able to most accurately maintain modes. The bellows can be affected by heat from the radiator itself. But the cost of bellows is much lower. This is an important factor when choosing equipment.

Liquid regulators


These are the most common devices. Their working substance is paraffin, acetone, toluene or another special liquid.

The advantages of liquid regulators include:

  1. High accuracy.
  2. Silence.
  3. Ease of use.
  4. Simplicity preset.
  5. Relatively low price.

Gas-filled regulators


These devices use gas as a working substance. According to the principle of operation, they are similar to liquid ones, but are able to respond faster and more accurately to fluctuations in the internal pressure of the bellows.

The advantages of such devices include:

  1. Smooth adjustment.
  2. Less dependency on the coolant temperature.
  3. Susceptibility to the slightest fluctuations in ambient temperature.

Installation of thermostats


The device is mounted directly in front of the radiator on the supply pipe. The head is installed horizontally. It is important to minimize exposure to all heat sources.

If the radiator is located in an enclosed area (behind curtains or furniture), the thermostat will not be able to do its job. This problem can be solved using remote control sensors. For installation in niches, you can use mini-regulators.

On the return pipe of the radiator, it is necessary to install a shut-off valve (valve). This makes it possible, if necessary, to dismantle the radiator without turning off the entire system.

When it ends, the regulators are set to the extreme open position - turned counterclockwise until the end. If this is not done, the valve seat becomes covered with plaque, which can lead to failure of the entire device.

Differences in installation for one-pipe and two-pipe systems


bypass in a two-pipe heating system

Apartment buildings usually have a single-pipe heating system. For the regulator to operate, a bypass must be installed. This is a jumper connecting 2 pipelines - direct and return, for coolant circulation when the valve is closed. also necessary for dismantling the radiator without shutting down the entire system.

There is no need to modify the two-pipe system. The regulator is mounted on the supply pipeline. The valve is cut into the lower pipeline.

If there is a two-pipe system, devices are used that have greater hydraulic resistance than single-pipe systems. That is, the flow area of ​​the devices should be smaller.

The mounting height in both cases is from 80 centimeters above the floor level.

Installation instructions:

  1. Block and drain the water from the riser.
  2. Cut off horizontal sections of the forward and return pipelines next to the radiator.
  3. If there are shut-off valves– disconnect them from the battery.
  4. For single pipe system install a bypass.
  5. Dismantle the shanks with fasteners from the shut-off device and regulator.
  6. Screw in shanks into the battery.
  7. Collect all elements.
  8. The entire harness connect to horizontal pipes.

Settings


All mechanical regulators require adjustment before use.

To do this you need:

  1. Prepare the room– all doors and windows must be closed (to minimize heat loss).
  2. Indoors install a thermometer.
  3. Turn the valve handle all the way to the left (maximum open valve position).
  4. When the temperature increases by 5 units, shut off the coolant supply.
  5. When the required temperature is reached, start opening the valve until the valve head warms. At the same time, the water will begin to make noise.
  6. Selected valve position needs to be fixed.

For electronic regulators, no adjustment is required. The parameters are set on the display.

Features of choice and cost


Danfoss thermostat

When choosing battery regulators, there are some key points to consider:

  1. Valve must match the size of the pipeline.
  2. For heating systems without circulation pumps, RTD-G valves are used.
  3. For systems those with , use RTD–N valves.
  4. It is preferable to purchase products from well-known and reliable brands.
  5. The device must have guarantee and quality certificate.
  6. Manually adjusted devices much cheaper, but require regular adjustments. In addition, the additional capabilities of automatic control devices largely offset the initial costs.

The purchase of thermostats for the heating system of private houses pays off through energy savings within one year.

The most famous manufacturers of this equipment are “Danfoss”, “Far”, “Teplokontrol”, “Caleffi”, “Oventrop”.

Approximate prices of thermostats today:

Type Manufacturer Characteristics Temperature range, 0 C Price, rub
Uni CHOventropThermostat, liquid sensing element.7-28 993
Uni FHOventropThermostat, liquid sensor, 2m remote sensor7-28 3938
Uni LHOventropThermostat, liquid sensor, 5m remote sensor7-28 4151
RA 2994DanfossThermostat, gas-filled sensor.5-26 1440
RA 2992DanfossThermostat, gas sensor, 2m remote control5-26 2200
RA 2940DanfossThermostat, gas-filled sensor, possibility of shutting off the coolant.0-26 1600


  1. Thermostats installed strictly in a horizontal position to avoid heating from the hot pipe.
  2. For single pipe systems it is necessary to install a bypass as an additional jumper.
  3. To install a bypass choose a pipe with a smaller diameter than that of the supply pipelines per unit.
  4. In private buildings, installation of thermostats begins from the top floor.
  5. In apartments of multi-storey buildings, installation of regulators begins in rooms with large temperature differences.