Dismantling the roof of wavy sheets. Stages of dismantling roofing

Technology building process

1. Before starting the roof disassembly, the following works must be performed:

a) the necessary fixing by temporary racks and runs of the attic overlap, if the latter due to durability threatens the collapse;

b) dismantling television and radio antenna, rates of broadcasting and other communication lines devices;

d) the disassembly of flue pipes over the roof;

e) dismantling electrical wiring and plumbing devices in the attic.

2. Disassembly of the steel roof is starting with removal of open pipes, firewall walls and other protruding parts, then break the rank, suspensory and eaves.

For disassembly of the ordinary coating section of the roof, one of the standing folds is revealed on all the roof scath and, disconnecting the lying fool, fastening the picture with the sheets of the gutter, raise the paintings with lomies, turning them into a nearby row. Then disconnect individual pictures and descend them into the attic overlap for further package and move to the warehouse. The same is repeated with the pictures of the next row.

Standing folders are either cut, or uncovered with a hammer-overcrow or a lomika, laying folds - with the help of roofing chisel. Before removing sheets or paintings, the curmmers are separated from the crate.

3. Disassembly of the crates produce from the skate to the parapent crate, and in the absence of the latter - to the formwork of the cornice.

When disassembling the crates every 1.2-1.5 m along the length of the rafter leaves, one or two crates or boards under layer folds are left.

Removing the parapent lattice, removing the remaining roofing coating from the parapent lattice to the sink, including trays and funnels, suspension and cornice, and the remaining parts of the crate and formwork are produced from the level of attic overlap, and then disassemble the sol.

The entire disassembled material is placed in packages on the attic overlap.

The crate and formwork is disassembled using a special lomika.

4. The rafters are disassembled on the principle of removing freely lying elements, removing the pre-metal fasteners (brackets, etc.). When disassembly, enjoy light slips from inventory elements.

5. Spaceled from disassembly materials are lowered down using a tower crane on an attractive warehouse or for loading directly into transport for subsequent transportation to the central processing warehouse.

6. In the work of work, safety regulations must be followed:

a) give out the working soft non-slip shoes, safety belts indicating their attachment places;

b) It is necessary to lay on the roofs of portable stepladders with a width of at least 30 cm with sour straps for a passage on the roof with a slope of more than 15 degrees;

c) do not leave the roofing sheets on the roof;

d) It is forbidden to disassemble the roof under the wind by force of more than 12 m / s (6 points), thick fog, storm rain, heavy snow and ice;

e) For the passage of the attic ceilings, it is necessary to lay on the beams of the shield flooring a width of at least 0.5 m.

The scheme of organization of work on the invigination and disassembly of the cornis part of the roof are presented in Fig. 7.1.


Organization of labor workers

1. The composition of the link by profession and qualifications (7 people):

Roofers Tax fumes Carpenters

3rd category - 1 2nd category - 2 4th category - 1

2nd category - 2 3rd category - 1 3rd category - 1

2nd category - 1

2. Distribution of work between the performers: The roofer removes the discovery of pipes and near them, firewall walls, coatings of the eaves, opening or cutting vertical folds, disconnecting the beammer from the crate. The removal of roofing paintings is made by carpenters of the 3rd and 4th discharges, and laying them in the packages - a carpenter of the 2nd category and a rigger. The disassembly of the crates and the rafter is made by carpenters of the 3rd and 4th discharges, and the packaging and lines of disassembled elements - the 3rd discharge carpenter and a rigger.

The second rigger is at the bottom for the despusting of the lowered cargo moving to the priest warehouse or transported into transport.

Works are compiled in the volume of one capture.

Dismantling the roof is performed on special technology. To remove the old coating from the roof, not believing with the rules, it is impossible, because it is fraught with the destruction of the rest of the design.

If for your own considerations to remove the solo system, then all the wooden elements can fall directly to your feet and seriously injured a person doing dismantling.

In order not to damage the structure and objects next to it, to work on the roof it is necessary to prepare.

Solving tasks predicting disassembly

To climb the roof to remove the roofing sheets with it, it is necessary in strictly defined cases.

Most often, the owners of houses resort to the dismantling of slate or any other roof coverage during the repair period of the entire building or exclusively the roof itself.

In this situation, it is assumed that no area of \u200b\u200bpremises under the roof will be restored, it is necessary to disassemble the roof in parts, and then retain new sheets of material.

Sometimes the need to clean the coating from the roof occurs due to the upcoming demolition of the building.

Of course, in most cases, the house is converted into pile of fragments, installing an explosive device or working as an excavator.

However, it happens that the old building due to the increased strength of its walls or due to other reasons is impossible to demolish, and the house is required to disassemble another, with a neat way.

In other words, the metal coating from such a structure will have to dismantle in stages, periodically exporting the construction trash.

Before getting up at home and begin to warm the waterproofing layer and the solry system, you need to remove the electrical wires from the roof, the antenna for the TV and the pipes that are output.

The roof will need to be cleaned of all unnecessary items, including advertising shields. After that, if the roof has a row, temporary backups should be put on the attic room.

When you need to disassemble the roof on the attic, the first thing you want to remove window frames.

Sheets of roofing material are removed with naked hands. It is necessary to climb on the roof, armed with a set of tools: an ax, scrap, saw, hammer, screwdriver and a nail-holder.

Rose upstairs buildings best on high stairs. On the pitched roof it will be convenient and hard to move, if to the top of the device with steps to nail the hook.

In addition, for trouble-free removal from the roof of the sheets, it is necessary to arm a rope.

If it did not work out for rent a special technique, facilitating the roof dismantling, it is recommended to transport the material from the roof down the block system.

The mechanism consists of several parts:

  • supports, which can be used to use a thick board, fixed on the root in such a way that its edge goes beyond the roof of 1 m;
  • blocks that are fixed to the center and edge of the board;
  • rope conducted through blocks and end of a tied to the board;
  • mobile platform, that is, a flat board with dimensions of 50 × 50 cm, connected to the system for laying the sheets of the removed coating.

Features of the removal of roofing material

The sequence of work on removal from the roof of the old coating depends on which material is to be removed.

For example, the disassembly of slate is carried out according to the following algorithm: first remove the element of the skate, and then take the nail and pull the fastening metal products, thereby removing the lists of the wave material alternately.

By the way, pulling nails will be easier if a person who does this operation will be an assistant. He needs to be in the attic and sweep the ends of the metal fasteners up.

If the roof is closed by slate with screws, then dismantling the roof will be required, armed with a screwdriver and a screwdriver.

To remove the coating from the roof, the elements of which are connected to each other by means of false, it is necessary to act as follows: the first thing to remove the canvas near the pipes and other rumbles over the material of the roof of the objects, and then you can remove hearing windows behind it, and then - ordinary sheets, slit and Swees.

The restrictive lattice, which sometimes exists on the roof with a folded coating, should be deleted after dismantling the materials.

Drains and all other fixtures left outside the lattice, it should be removed, being in an attic room.

If some of the roofing sheets did not become unreasonably, and after removing from the roof, they will still be used, then the folds are recommended to disclose through the hammer, and the bend along the edges of the damaged sections of the material should be squeezed with chisels and scrap.

It is possible to dismantle the soft root in season when the weather is standing on the street.

The fact is that at temperatures above 20 0 Ruberoid and another canvas made with the addition of bitumen is heated, which changes its properties.

Usually under the influence of sunlight, the soft material is able to become drove, which makes it difficult to remove the roofing coating.

To simplify the dismantling of a soft roof, you should use the roofing ax. The device is created from a conventional tool for cutting firewood welded to a solid pipe, the diameter of which is 4 cm.

A manufactured homemade unit must be cutting a bitume based coating on the squares. Then the segments of soft material should be kept off from a concrete base using the same ax.

After removing the coating from the roof, you can proceed to the removal of the waterproofing coating and the insulation.

Films and membranes should be removed with the utmost accuracy, as they are allowed to be stamped by the building of the building again.

In other cases, you need to use the spatula, while it is absolutely necessary to exercise caution. The carrier design of the roof is dismantled, standing in the attic and applying scrap with an ax.

So, how to disassemble the roof, depends on the materials from which the roof is made. But regardless of the type of roofing coverage, a large set of tools will be required to perform dismantling.

If you find everything you need and act according to the instructions, the slate, rafters and other roof elements will be removed without problems.

A few years ago, I purchased a garden plot on which the Shed and the house were stood. The latter was built in the early 70s of the last century, as they say, "From what was", and according to the technology, "like a neighbor."

The house with an attic was a frame design. Outside, it was loudly lining, from the inside - an unedged board, and on top of her - plywood. At one time, the house looked, probably quite well, but at the time of the purchase of "overlook" problems. And the main one was that due to the deformation of the column foundation, the house leaned greatly in one direction.

My attempts to straighten the situation were not crowned with success - the house continued to fall. Having all the "for" and "against", I decided to disassemble it. And no capabilities - carefully. At the same time, it came from the fact that during the construction of a new house "BESCHER" material may probably come in handy for creating formwork, roughing, scaffolding, rooting, etc.

The sequence of work was determined from the most common considerations - to start logical from above and gradually move down. So the house will not collapse ahead of time and, moreover, the first floor at the initial stage can be used as a warehouse.

In order not to lose the spring when it runs quickly, I began to work in the winter.

A few words about nails. While there was winter, torn off the inner covering boards, I left in the house on the first floor. Immediately, the nails pulled out nails, sorted them and folded into different vests. The times, when they were able to build without a single nail, passed, and at the time of work there were accumulated about 4 vestors of nails, which I planned to reuse. The savings on it turned out small (with an average price for 1 kg of nails about 100 rubles. It comes out - about 4 thousand). Nevertheless, such trifles can significantly reduce the total costs.

Of course, at the same time it is not necessary to fall in extremes, trying to certainly, at the same time it is not necessary to fall in extremes, trying to pull out every nail. Everything needs a reasonable approach.

For example, if the boards in the future are supposed to be used for finishing, then nails are better to pull out everything so that when processing does not damage the tool. And if the board will be used for auxiliary purposes, let's say on the formwork, some nails can be hooked.

Storage material.

Why did I start with nails? The point here is not only in savings, but also in the convenience of subsequent storage. Boards with sticking nails occupy about 3 times more space. And when you have only 6 acres with the old garden and buildings on them, you quickly begin to understand that the area must be saved.

The costs of time to pull the nail and to get it up, are almost the same.

It is necessary to take care of the material attentively, so that you do not have to drag the boards and birch from place to place several times. We must think in advance all further actions during construction.

For example, if earthworks are planned, then the boards are better attributed from the future to the way, so that they do not interfere with the work. In addition, for stables it is better to choose a place higher. Then they will not be in the pool after the rain or from the melting snow in the spring. It is also desirable for them to put an opaque material so that the grass does not grow under them. For this purpose, I used the runneroid, which was removed from the walls and roof.

In addition, as a temporary warehouse, I used the old greenhouse. Many glasses in it were knocked out, so that the boards do not drop the rain, I also covered it rubroaloid.

Sawdust, glass gamble and safety. After dismantling the inner finish of the attic, I went down to the first floor. I want to once again note that at the first stage, the rack did not touch, in order to prevent collapse, but he drove only the trim.

As a heater in overlapping the first floor, sawdust and fine chips were used in front of lime. Lime additive is a very old and reliable way to get rid of mice. In any case, the traces of these annoying rodents in sawdust I did not find. But in the glasswheel, they lived freely ..

Sawders were dry, so I also decided to save "just in case" - poured into plastic bags and put under the roof. In the future, they can come in handy in direct appointment, and if not, they will go to fertilizer.

Under the trimming of the first floor, a glass gamble was laid. This created an additional problem, since it is not safe to work with it, and after the past years it crumbled in the hands, which created extra difficulties.

To then be noticed, I took precautions. First, put on clothes from dense fabric and fastened to all buttons. She put on his head a special helmet, and on the hands - two pairs of gloves (first - tissue, and from above - rubber). It must be said that often this protection of the glass gambler pierced, and then I suffered, trying to pull the brittle offices.

Secondly, I put on glasses and a respirator.

And, thirdly, so that the glass gamble in the disassembly less dust, I previously sprayed it with water, and the extracted pieces of the insulation immediately laid 120 liters into polyethylene bags. This is, in my opinion, the optimal size by weight and volume. However, if the glass gamble is very wet, it is better to use the bags of 60 l, making a nail of several holes for water drain.

It is appropriate to say a few more words about safety techniques. Work on the analysis of old buildings is often not necessary without injury.

For example, when disassembling the roof, I stand at the bottom on the stairs, tried to tear the eaves to the fronton. But I did not calculate the forces, she broke away and fell on my head, unprotected even a cap. It is good that a rusty nail only snapped the skin on the head, and did not stick to the head. But put the seams in the traumopuncture still had to. Therefore, I strongly advise everyone who is preparing for similar work - follow the security technique!

Demolition and disassembling the roof of the old house.

After the inner covering and insulation were removed, I climbed onto the roof. There was already spring on the courtyard, the snow went down, and the roof was not slippery.

First removed slate. Its after removing nails dropped, trying to direct sheets down vertically, so that they stick into the ground, and not falling plastics. In the latter case, they would certainly be broken. I did not plan to use Slate in the future, but I came out of the fact that the more careful to remove it, the smaller the fragments, which will also have to collect. And I did not make any special measures to preserve sheets, as it would significantly slow down work.

After slate, I removed the metal strips for fastening the runneroid, and then the referee itself.

Assistants.

When the roof was removed, to continue the disassembly of the roof alone was uncomfortable, and for this work I had to hire assistants. Considering that everything else I did myself, I spent 7 times less money to demolish the house than if I hired a brigade of the "destroyers" for this. Of course, I lost my time in time, but I won the money and restart the materials. Wide working workers would never be ceremony with my boards, as they need to do work as quickly as possible.

Disassembling the walls and overlap of the base.

After the outdoor walls of the walls were removed, a frame remained, consisting of old bars and bric. The greatest difficulty was the birch, which were used as the beams of overlapping - they were the most difficult. After pulling out the bricken from the nest, I rolled them along the guides to the edge of the frame and dropped down. Roll easier than to wear. When the upper birch was removed, the walls of the walls were piled in different directions.

The lower overlap, stood by almost 2 years in the water, was raw and heavy, but his disassembly had no difficulty for me. With long logists who served lower strapping, a neighbor helped me. (Together with your neighbors and help each other!)

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Professional flooring is one of the most affordable and economical materials for overlapping roofing with their own hands. The metal coating is successfully used by developers when erecting private houses, veranda, terraces, arbors, baths and economic buildings.

Features of working with a straightener

The installation of the roof of the corrugated floor is performed using a standard set of tools available even from beginner masters. Depending on the executed construction phase, it will be necessary:

  • set for measuring - Roulette, Rope Motion, Level, Pencil;
  • set for working with materials - Knife or scissors for metal, hammer, sealant (for convenience, you will need a gun), construction stapler;
  • electrical equipment - screwdriver, drill with screwdrides of the desired diameter.

Professional property is made of metal, so for its cutting will require special scissors or an electrolybiz

When working with a straightener, it should be remembered that its polymer coating can only withstand cold processing. For the convenience of cutting this material, it is recommended to use in addition to the scissors for metal electrolovka and hacksaw. Cutting professional flooring with a grinder with an abrasive circle.

Metal parts of the coating last longer, if anti-corrosion primer is applied to the location of the cut.

For fastening a professional flooring to a wooden basis, it is used in the manufacture of which durable galvanic galvanized steel is added.

For fastening a sheet of professional flooring, a roofless self-tapping screw is used with hermetic rubber gasket

In addition, a rubber gasket is used to each mounting element in the set, which provides a hermetic compound of materials. With its help, metal sections are reliably protected from moisture, and a wooden lamb - from the rotation process.

Roofing screws are selected according to the following parameters:

  • depending on the height of the wave of the proflist and the method of its attachment, it is possible to use products with a size of 4.8 × 35, 4.8 × 60 or 4.8 × 80 mm;
  • details should be treated with a layer of zinc with a thickness of at least 12 microns;
  • the metal should include a stabilizer protecting material from aging due to the effects of ultraviolet rays;
  • the screw of the self-press should be covered with a powder paint layer not thinner than 50 microns;
  • it is necessary to distinguish between the purpose of hermetic gaskets from a different material: Elastomeric is used when fixing the professional sheet, aluminum - for mounting endands.

Fastening elements should be chosen in the color of the polymer coating of the professional flooring.

When laying a metal roofing, polyethylene or polyurethane foam seals can be used. They are fixed to the doom, creating a layer under the professional flooring. The task of these materials is to reduce noise from precipitation, leaves and branches falling on metal sheets, as well as in improving thermal insulation and increasing the operational period of the roof.

Under the roof, it is necessary to lay a polyethylene or polyurethane foam layer to protect the roof from birds and cold air flows.

Both sides of the sealing canvas are covered with glue, and for ventilation it is equipped with special holes. Thanks to the seal, it is possible to close the gaps formed between the profrects and the main design of the roof. This installation will protect the roof from birds, insects and cold air flows.

Selection and installation of professional flooring

Due to the presence of ribbiness in the form of waves created by the method of cold profiling, the sheet metal roof copes flawlessly with external load. The low market price, the variety of color options and the convenience of installation allows you to use this material both in industry and in the work of private developers.

The degree of strength and durability of the roof depends not only on the correctness of the installation of the professional flooring, but also on the compliance with the technology of assembling the entire roofing design.

Calculation of materials for installation of roofing

Depending on the roof design chosen at the design stage, its form can be rectangular, triangular or trapezoidal. To fulfill the calculations, it is enough to apply simple formulas from the geometry school year. The total area of \u200b\u200bthe roofing surface is determined by the addition of the areas of all skates. In addition, it is important to know the length of the other elements of the roof, which includes:

  • skate elements;
  • endow;
  • ribra;
  • adjoining designs;
  • farmery and end skes.

In addition to the main coating, there are quite many special challenges on the roof of the professional flooring

Under the profiled sheet width, you can understand:

  • full transverse size, which is usually equal to 1180 mm;
  • useful or working width, which remains after deducting the stock for Fast Sheets (most often only one wave). It is usually equal to 1100 mm.

When installing, only operated by the operating parameters of sheets should be operated.


For example, for a house of 3 * 5 m with a duplex roof you will need such components:

  • professional sheets - 18 pcs.;
  • konon - 3 strips of 2 m;
  • skate seal - 6 pcs. 2 m;
  • face plank - 7 pcs. 2 m;
  • curisa Plank - 6 pcs. 2 m;
  • roofing screws - 200 pcs.

After completing simple calculations, it is possible not only to quickly cope with the installation of roofing material, but also minimize the amount of its residues.

How to install professional flooring on the roof

When buying a professional flooring, do not forget to take instructions for using the material.

Consider the installation sequence of the roof using a professional flooring.

Highlights that should be taken into account when laying a coating

Depending on the shape of the roof, the starting place is determined. On a rectangular skate, laying from any of the ends on the cornisa line is allowed. When working with a trapezoid or triangular roof, the laying option should be in advance, considering that the first sheet is better to fix in the center of the cornice line with further symmetrical installation of sheets on both sides of the skate.

On rectangular rods, sheets of professional flooring are stacked in a checker, starting from any edge

If a drainage system is installed on the roof, then the professional flooring should hang 60 mm, if the design does not imply the elements of the drain, then the amount of the sink is determined on the basis of the sheet brand:

  • professional flooring of the National Assembly of National Assembly allows Svet to 100 mm;
  • proflists of the C-44 brand, NS-35 are stacked with a 40-300 mm sink.

When attaching the first sheet, it is aligned from the end and the roof cornice. The following coating elements, pre-fastened along the longitudinal part, are aligned on the cornice design and are screwed to a wooden trim. According to such a scheme, all rows of coating are locked.

Fasteners of the professional flooring at the place of the sheets of sheets is made in the upper wave, and in all other places - in the lower

When screwing the screws, it should be remembered that sheets located near the eaves require a reinforced attachment in a step of 30-40 cm. On the surface of the professional leaf, the self-sufficiency is located at a distance of no more than 1 m in a checkerboard order. Longitudinal trays are fixed by self-drawing at the top of the profile with a step of 30-50 cm.

Consumption per 1 sheet of coating is about 7-8 self-tapping screws. The size of the inlet of the upper row of the material on the lower is determined on the basis of the slope of the skate, and is usually 10-30 cm.

An alternative to screwdriver when screwing the screws can become a drill with the reverse function, the speed of which can be smoothly adjusted during operation.

Description of the main stages of work with professional flooring

The sequence of work depends on the type of roof erected. If cold roof is satisfied, then two basic operations are performed:

  1. Creating a waterproofing layer. The purpose of waterproofing consists in preventing the negative effect of condensate formed in the underlined space on wooden design details. Choose from a large number of options the necessary material will not be difficult. When installing, it should be remembered that the film is attached to the cut before installing the roofing coating. The waterproofing canvas should slightly sag. It is important to be convinced of the uniformity of the steps of the dores of the root, where in the future the professional flooring will be attached.

    Waterproofing film stacked with a small provis company and fixed by transverse rails

  2. Staying coating from the professionalist. The installation of a reliable wooden flooring is 100 cm on both sides of the suspension. At the same time, the boards are becoming reached under Undova with a fastener and an indent of 20 cm from the lower parts of the rtevoy slats. The bottom beam can be fixed with nails, but it will be possible to achieve its stable fastening only at the stage of completion of construction work. Next, the lower endow is installed with the preliminary flanging or with the inflection of the upper ending skate on the roofing horse. When installing it is important to verify that the plane is started under the horse at 25 cm and more. It will not be superfluous to lay an additional seal between end and coverage sheets. When working with rectangular skates, it is recommended to first perform the installation of endboards, which will significantly facilitate the subsequent location of the professional flooring.

    Profile sheets are stacked after the design of all joints and adjoints with the help of endands

If the roof requires insulation, then the sequence of installation work is as follows:

  1. A vapor barrier film is stacked on which the lamb is mounted.

    Vaporizolation film stacked on rafters and fixed with brackets

  2. The heat insulating material is mounted between rags (it is recommended to choose a heater in the form of mats or plates). If it is necessary to lay a multiple layer of thermal insulation material, it must be placed in a checker order so that there are no cross-cutting gaps.

    Solar Plates should enter the space between rafters with tangible tension

  3. The waterproofing film is stacked, which records the control.
  4. The roofing material is mounted.

    The device of roofing cake involves the mandatory presence of a ventilation gap to remove the condensate formed on the back of the professional flooring

Video: Installation of professional flooring with your own hands

Additional roof elements

When arranging a profiled roof with a drainage system, you must take care of the installation of all items before the laying of the coating is started:

  1. Roofing horse. On both sides of the skate to the doom at the location of the skate, additionally several boards are naked. Two ventilation gap should be provided in the skate. The waterproofing material is covered with the entire surface of the skate, leaving only 10CC wide bandwidth to the skate. To maintain normal ventilation, professional flooring is placed with an indent of 5 cm from the skate element. The fastening of the skate is carried out on a screw of 4.8 × 80 mm in size at the top of the profile after each 30-40 cm. From the ends of the ridge plank, plugs are put.

    The color of the skate can be chosen to the roofing

  2. Face plank. The length of the standard product is 2 m, in the event of an increase in the bar, it is necessary to observe the amount of the outlet of parts at 10-15 cm. Install the end bar so that at least one wave of the roofing sheet is overlapped. For fasteners, self-tapping screws are used, which connect the bar with the end board and a straw.

    Face plank protects roofing from lateral wind

  3. Plank adjoining. Upon completion of the construction of the roof fasten the strips of the adjoining. The length of the parts is 2 m, when they are installed, it is important to withstand the launch of 20 cm. Self-tapping screws 4.8 × 19 mm are used in a step of 40 cm. For high-quality adjuncing walls and roofing end, laying the skate seal, and in the side of the lateral adjustment Mounted longitudinal seal. If the rod is cool, then the longitudinal laying is not required.

Video: Fastening of Dobly Elements

Rules of crossing of the cornice using a professional sheet

The decoration of the roof of the roof with metal sheets is performed according to the following scheme:


Video: Lights of the roof skes from the proflist

Incorrect installation of corrugated: causes of errors and ways to eliminate them

Among the main causes of errors in the construction of roofs from the professional flooring are distinguished:

  • incorrect selection of materials;
  • incorrect calculation of professional flooring;
  • failure to comply with the performance of work.

Eliminate the shortcomings associated with the calculation of the material can be independently based on a number of rules:

  1. Be sure to measure the complete roofing surface (for all skates) immediately before purchasing building materials.
  2. Based on the data of two diagonal measurements of one slope, while the difference between the figures received should not exceed 2 cm.
  3. Pick the brand of the professional sheet depending on the roof area. So, for a small roof is the optimal brand C-18, 20, 21. The large surfaces are subject to significant loads, so the professionalist of the NA-35, 60 brand is suitable for them.
  4. Check the inclination of the coating elements immediately before screwing the screws.
  5. Place the professional flooring against the wind to protect against penetration inside the rainwater and melting snow.

Perform work on solving the problem of incorrect installation can be independently:


Video: How to fix the wrong installation errors

Dismantling of the roof of the corrugated

Determine the sequence of work when parsing the coating of profiled sheets is simple enough - it is necessary to recall the sequence of the stages of the installation of the coating and perform the opposite. First you need to remove skate planks, visor and other elements, and then remove sheets of professional flooring. As for tools, it all depends on the fasteners used. If the installation was made by self-drawing, then they should be armed with a screwdriver, when working with nails it is enough to have a nail-made.

If the straightener was nailed to nail, it will take a nail

Is it possible to repair the roof from the professional flooring and how to do it

The scale of repairing roofing is determined by the degree of damage. First of all, a thorough inspection of the roof is performed to detect a malfunction. If we are talking about such minor defects, as a leakage, the lesion of the metal rust, mold or the appearance of fistula, then the roof repair scheme will be generally one for all cases.

So, when detecting, for example, the leakage of the roofing material, experts recommend checking the quality of tightening of self-tapes with a rubber seal. If the installation of the roof has been completed recently, then, as a rule, to eliminate troubleshooting, pull the fasteners.

With more serious defects, the following works are performed:

  1. Replacing profiled sheets.
  2. Repair or laying new roofing screed.
  3. Replacing the aprons in places of adjacent roofing elements, parapet, eaves.
  4. Installing new drows of the drainage system.

Often, problems arise with structural joints. Repair of scratches, small roof cracks can be carried out by seating the places of defect or installing a special sealing tape, and to eliminate deep holes impose patches from special mastic. If there are remnants of metal sheets, you can cut the part of them the desired size and weld over the damaged surface.

For the repair of the roof in case of leakage, you can use a sealing tape

Repair of fistula is carried out using a pacle dipped in a hot bitumen, and patches from the same mastic. To eliminate large defects, used burlap or rubberoid, of which the patch is cut on 25-30 cm wide and longer than the dimensions of the hole in the roofing coating. Initially, the place around the hole is thoroughly cleaned with a metal brush and soaked with hot bitumen. As soon as the surface dries, treated with bitumen mastic, burlap or rubberoid segment is superimposed on top of it in several layers. A hot bitumen is poured on top to the patch.

The roofing coating from the professional flooring has many advantages over other similar materials, but only with competent installation and timely repair it will decorate the house and serve the protection of its owners over the years.

- Dangerous and labor-intensive, and not only because they are performed on top. For security reasons, the exclusion of the risk of injury to people and collaboration, we strongly recommend attracting these work, and the information provided is exclusively for familiarization!

Features of dismantling work

Dismantling the roof is carried out with capital, partial repairs when replacing the old coating to the new one. There are many reasons for this - wear or damage to the coating, redevelopment, attachment of the attic, etc. Also, the dismantling of the roof is performed when the entire building is demolished.

In some cases, you can not resort to the dismantling of the entire roof: it is enough to replace the outer material, but only if the strength of the existing rafters and the load assessment, which the new roof will create. But if we are talking about redevelopment, the completion of the new floor or part of the building, as well as the wear of the roof - without dismantling it is not necessary: \u200b\u200ball the elements, including the rafter system and Mauerlat, are disturbed.

Before carrying out work, it is developed, which depends on the type of roof, the quality and strength of the materials, the floors of the structure, the roof area and a number of other features. Estimation of the state of the roof is always carried out at the facility - if the roof is old and emergency, additional security measures will be required. It is necessary to insulate the site, eliminating the access of third parties to the place of work.

Algorithm for performing a dismantling of the roof

In order for the process to be done constructively and quickly, a thoughtful scheme should be followed. The deviation from the work plan is possible when force majeure occurs, and in other cases it is excluded.

Attention!
Safety is a mandatory requirement at all stages of work, which makes up security for workers, people and structural elements of the building. In addition to overalls and specialobuvi, it is necessary to preserve the means of individual protection for hands, heads and respiratory organs (a lot of dust is formed during the work)

Example work plan:

  • Removing the trim, which is carried out taking into account the characteristics of the coating.
  • Removing the crate and removal of insulating layers. Works are performed in turn, depending on the condition of the roof and materials. The crate is removed very carefully and carefully so that no item remains. Insulating layers are also dismantled alternately.
  • Collapse of the rafter system. First, extra beams are removed, and the last turn are carriers. The connecting elements are neatly sawed by a saw.
  • Removing the insulation.
  • Sorting materials and removal of construction waste.

When parsing the roofs of private houses, the volumetric elements of roofing materials are descended after preliminary fixation by the strapping material, neatly and slowly. If we are talking about high-rise homes, necessarily the presence of a crane.

By the way!
Materials that preserved their operational qualities can be used again. To do this, accurately accurate when they are dismantling and transporting.

Features of dismantling of individual types of coatings

Modern roofs are most often performed from metal tiles, ceramic tiles and slate. But in old houses you can find completely different materials, each of which has its own characteristics when conducting work.

  • Ceramic tile is removed from the bottom up.
  • Metal roof is removed consistently, starting from sites near the walls, pipes and other protruding places.
  • Wave slate is more expedient to remove in the reverse order, from top to bottom.
  • Bituminous roof is removed with special equipment.
  • Soft or rolled roofing cuts into pieces and gently descends down.
  • The analysis of the ordinary coating starts from the disclosure of one fold, then with the help of tools, the part of the shelter is raised and turned over to the nearby row. After separation, descend into attic overlap.