Beginning building a small country house or a solid cottage, each expects that his brainchild will not like one dozen years old And serve as you grow up children and even grandchildren.
How much is like built house - it depends first of all from the correctly executed basis.
But even I. qualitative foundation will not help if he is in constant dampcaused by the presence of moisture in the surrounding soil.

Water can penetrate the land after the rain, when melting snow, and the most unpleasant case - if on the site is high ground water level (UGB).

What is it and what is his goal
To avoid flooding the foundation of raindrops, thale or groundwater and serves drainage system, which is a set of devices intended for removal excess moisture: trays, canals, trenches, wells, and so on.

Draining systems are performed for protecting Fundament Separately standing building or the entire site, if it is located on the ground with a reduced terrain. The proposed article discusses drainage systems for foundation building at home.

Main types of drainage structures

Trenches of this type are used to remove surface water when the site where the house under construction is almost does not have no slope or even is in small nizine.

After long rains to such a house, you can only come up in rubber boots, not to mention the spring flood.

Using open land trenches organize collection and discharge Surface water into the sewer system, a special team well or beyond the site, if possible.

Open systems just make, but they portrait landscape And unsafe when walking - it is easy to stumble.

Closed

Such a drainage is a more efficient solution for drying the soil on considerable depth - Up to one and a half meters.

Represents the system filter pipesPastened material placed in water: small crushed stone, gravel, ceramzit

For this purpose apply special perforated Pipes with numerous holes Small diameter.

You can use the usual plastic Sewer pipes, drill holes using an electric train. The device of such a system is much more complicated and more expensive.

Beep

For a small area used fucking drainage trenches. They successfully remove both superficial and groundwater.

At the same time, there is no need to spend money on the purchase of pipes and related accessories (squares, tees, lattices, etc.). Ditch digging to a depth of 1 to 1.5 m perimeter at home At some distance and fill in their broken brick or rubble of large fractions.


On top to cover this filling of the geotextile strip, then fall asleep earth with styling of turf. True, it is impossible to clean after graining.

Surface

There is nothing but an open type drainage. It has 2 varieties: spot and linear.

Point drainage

Perform for local lead Water (from one point). For example, from the drainage tube, from the garden soul or the watering crane.

If the site has a place where often accumulate Water to get rid of it with this method is the most simple. The device is water receiver, Usually purchased, laid flush with the surface of the Earth in the desired place.

Concrete or plastic are joined to it. trays, laid with a slope of about 1 degree in the direction of water lead. Top of trays are closed with metal or plastic lattices.

Linear drainage

If a few point Receivers combine into one general The thawed highway, it turns out a linear drainage system.

It should be recalled that the point and linear systems are removed only surface Water

The final point can serve storm sewage, adoptive sump or filtering well.

Depth

If the house is located in Nizina, or at the depths there is a waterproof clay layer, as well as with high trees quantity Underground water will be great.

At the same time, the deep drainage should be performed. closed Type, which is described above. To avoid clogging Drainage pipes, manufactures revision (cleaner) wells This size so that it can be lowered by hand.

Placing clean elements It follows in angular, T-shaped pairings and after 10-12 meters of underground communications. By location relative to the foundation, deep drainage can be warning or ring.

Wailed drainage

Arrange when under the building is available basement or basement. The trench is rotated close to the wall of the ribbon foundation.

You can avoid additional earthworks, if you do this when bookmark Fundament. The depth of the finest point must be about 20 cm more than the depth of the sole.

Pipe clamp inside The draining layer of gravel, fine rubble or clay, wrapped everything with geotextile cloth.

Performing the backstage of the ditch of ducts, close to the side surface of the foundation fall asleep with a layer of pure coarse-grained river sand, With a layer-by-layer, a thickness of 25-30 cm.

Pre-deceive the foundation wall with a layer of oily mint clay (clay castle).

Ring Drainage

Perform if the basement in the house is absent. In this case, the trench is root after the end of the construction of the house at a distance of 1.5-3 m from the foundation.

We carry out drainage yourself

Best time for making

The drainage system is best constructalthough in the heat and pulls to relax in the tank

Yes, and the Earth at this time is so dry that even though scribbled. Despite these negative moments, the best time of the year is not to find this work.

SpringAfter snow comes down, the earth still retains dampness for a long time. If at this time it is to prepare a system of drainage, the land will fall to the fall, and may break up tightness Connecting drainage pipes, which will require further additional time to eliminate defects.

On the autumn months hopefully frivolous, rainy rains can lead to what work will have to be transferred until the next summer season.

Preparation for installation

More attention should be paid to the preparation for the manufacture drainage around a residential building. Insufficient thinking of the device layout can lead to excess earthworks or the purchase of unnecessary building materials, which will then be useless to occupy area of \u200b\u200bstorage.

Before starting work, you need to make up a large-scale plot plan With high-speed marks, choose a place to accommodate salad well.


If you plan to remove the drains behind the territory of the site, it is necessary to enlist the resolution of the local sanitary and epidemiological station (SES). Otherwise, all work may be in vain, and money - thrown into the wind.

Required tools

For the manufacture of drying system Not so much tools will be required. Most of them are usually available at each owner:

• measuring tape measure 30-50 m;
• building level;
• hydraulic level up to 50 m long;
• bayonet and soviet shovels;
• wheelbarrow.

Instead of hydraulic level, it is not bad to purchase optical or laser level. The laser device is useful when the internal finish of the house under construction.

As experience shows, the hydraulic level has an unpleasant property. "Loose" during the measurement process. This is due to the fact that the connecting hose may fall air bubbleswhich lead to distorting results.

Production of drainage

Consider the execution of the drainage system around the house with your own hands. Do it on the example of the structure of the depth wasted drainage (This refers to the fact that the drainage system is constructed simultaneously with the manufacture of the foundation):

Manufacturing a drainage well

At the end of the drainage system are erected filtering or overflow drainage well. If it is not possible to remove the water from it directly at the location of the location, you will have to pump water with submersible pump.

For mounting well You can purchase ready-made concrete or plastic sections And collect the finished design of them. Purchased rings reinforced concrete When installing will create difficulties due big weight.

Alternatively, you can cast a well from concrete directly on the site of its installation.

Fulfilled drainage system around the perimeter of the house under construction will save foundationfrom impact of moistureThroughwhile, the waterproofing will save its protective functions for a long time, in the basement it will be dry, and the walls of the house will serve not to one generation.

The problem of flooding and increased oveurgement of the soil is familiar to the owners of the plots located in the Central region of Russia. Dampness and waters after melting snow do not allow proper preparation of the country area to the summer season, and the overalling of the soil with constant precipitation is detrimental for many plants. There are several ways to solve these problems, but the most effective is the improvement of drainage.

In which cases requires a drainage system

Drainage is a technology for collecting and leading ground, melting and stormwater from a plot, technical and residential buildings. The drainage system prevents washing, the soil, which occurs due to the oversaturation of the moisture.

The arrangement of the drainage system is not far from each site. In order to determine how much your site needs drainage, it will take a visual inspection. Please note whether the adjustment of the site occurs after the snow melting, how fast water absorbs after watering plants, whether the puddles are rainfall after heavy rain and shower. If you have repeatedly observed these signs, then drainage is required.

The drainage system helps to remove water clots from the site

If there is little visual confirmation, then a simple experiment can be carried out - with a manual drill or ordinary shovels, a hole should be pulled out with a depth of 70-100 cm. It is better to do so in several places on the site. If after 24-36 hours at the bottom of the pit accumulates and water does not go away, then this is a direct evidence of the oversaturation of soil moisture.

The soil drainage is carried out under the following conditions:

• high groundwater occurrence;
• the site is located in the area with clay soil;
• the plot is located in a lowland or vice versa - on the slope;
• at the location of the site drops a large amount of precipitation.

The presence of drainage contributes to the preservation of finishing and facing materials used for laying garden tracks, decorations of the base and the facade of the building.

Types of detention systems

Land drainage systems There is a great set. At the same time, in various sources, their classification may differ much from each other. In the case of drainage systems for suburban and country sites, it is recommended to use the most simple and proven solutions.

Surface type drainage

Surface drainage is the most simple and efficient system. The main task is to drain the soil, by removing the water formed as a result of the livhery precipitation and uneven melting of snow.

Grilings protect the open drainage system from large garbage

The surface drainage system is constructed along the area of \u200b\u200bthe site, around the house and the buildings adjacent to it, near the garage structures, warehouses and the courtyard. Surface drainage is divided into two subspecies:

1. Point - in some sources is indicated as local drainage. Used to collect and drive water from a specific location on the site. The main scope of use is the drainage of platforms under drainage, near the entrance doors and the gate, in the area of \u200b\u200bthe location of the containers and cranes for watering. It is often used as an emergency system if another type of drainage is overloaded.
2. Linear - applied to drain the entire site. It is a system consisting of host trays and channels arranged at some angle, providing a constant flow of water. The drainage system is supplied with filter lattices and sands. Trays and drains are made of PVC, polypropylene, PND or Polymerbeton.

When the drainage surface system is recommended to combine point and linear drainage. This will ensure the most efficient operation of the system. If necessary, the point and linear drainage can be combined with the system that is described below.

Depth drainage

The deep drainage is performed in the form of a pipeline laid in places where constant soil drainage or lowering the level of groundwater is necessary. Drains are placed in compliance with the slope in the direction of water flow, which enters the collector, well or water, located outside the site.

The process of constructing deep drainage on the country site

To reduce the level of groundwater, the pipes are laid around the perimeter of the area to a depth of 80-150 cm. In the case when it is necessary to take water from the foundation of the structure, the pipes must be laid below the depth of its occurrence. And also drainage pipes can be laid throughout the area area with a certain step. The distance between the drains depends on the depth of their attachment and the mechanical composition of the soil.

For example, in the device of the drainage system, when the drain is stacked at a depth of 0.9-1 m, the recommended distance between it is at least 9-11 m. On the subline soil under the same conditions, the step between the drains is reduced to 7-9 m, and clay up to 4-5.5 m. More detailed data for different depths of the attachment can be seen in the table below. Information taken from the book "Drainage of land under the gardens" for the authorship of A.M.Dumblauskas.

When laying the pipe, the facilities of the terrain are observed. According to the drain technology, they are stacked from the highest point at the lowest point. If the plot is relatively smooth, the slope for the bottom of the trench is formed to give the slope. The minimum level of slope is 2 cm on 1 p. M. Of the drainage tube when dragging drainage in clay and sublinous soil. For sandy soil, the slope of 3 cm per 1 m. N.

With a drainage device, a large length should be abide by the minimum bias throughout the length of the drainage route. For example, for a drainage system of 15 m long minimum level difference between the initial and end point of the track will be at least 30 cm.

If possible, it is recommended to exceed the stated rules of the slope. This will provide faster drainage, reduce the risk of drainage and clogging. In addition, dig a trench with a large bias is much easier than to extinct 1-2 cm.

Drainage in the country area - the simplest ways with the instructions

In order to independently carry out the drainage of the land plot through the drainage system, you will need to get acquainted with the technology of work, calculate and purchase the necessary materials, prepare a tool and place to perform work.

Surface Damage Drainage

Outdoor surface drainage is a universal solution for draining the country's cottage sections of a small area. For example, for standard sections of 6 acres. As a basis, you can take the diagram below. It shows the drainage track in the shape of "Christmas tree". The distance between the drains, as stitched, is above selected based on the type of soil (see table).

An example of the location of the drainage system in the country area

To carry out work, it takes a Soviet and bayonet shovel, a roulette, a bubble level, a hammer and a sharp construction knife. As materials, it will be necessary to prepare the gravel fraction 20-40, geotextile, edged bar or a board with a length of 2-3 m.

For the construction of the surface drainage in the country area, you will need to perform the following:

Sometimes, the base of the trench is concreted by all the length of the drainage route. This allows you to not worry that with time, the earth walls will begin to crumble, the flow of water will deteriorate, etc. But this approach is more labor-intensive and requires the ability to work with a concrete mixture.

Drainage of the site with deep drainage

Depth drainage is a standard solution for draining country and country sections. The depth drainage system can be mounted, even when there is a protective breakfast, concrete or slab tracks around the building. If necessary, their partial disassembly can be performed, but in general the design will not suffer.

Example of a draft drainage system on a country site

Work on the construction of deep drainage includes the following:

1. According to the project plan, it is necessary to form a scheme of the location of the drainage pipes and determine the point of resetting water, that is, the place from where the assembled water will merge into the sewer pipes leading to the drainage well. The depth of the pipeline laying must be lower than the level of the primer of the soil. For the North-West region, this value is about 60-80 cm.

   Preparation of trenches when constructing deep drainage

2. Taking into account the plan, crossing the trench is performed around the perimeter and the area of \u200b\u200bthe plot of depth to 1 m. The width of the trench is at least 30 cm. All horizontal sections of trenches are combined into a single system, which is supplied to the water discharge point. After that, the trenches are rocked in compliance with the slope of 2-4 cm per 1 m surface. To check the quality of the flow of trenches, spill a large volume of water. If necessary, the bias towards the drainage well increases.

   Drinking under the drainage well need to be pulled out at the lowest point on the plot

3. At the lowest point of the site, the place is placed under the installation of the water bridge or filtering drainage well. For sections of a large area located on thin and clay soil types, it is better to install the storage types of wells with a volume of up to 1000 liters. For small sites, you can use both accumulative and filtering wells. The type of tank is selected based on the type of soil.

   Over the gravel layer, a wide geotextile canvas is stacked

4. On the bottom of the trench, fine-flow gravel is falling asleep. The thickness of the layer is 10 cm. On gravel, Geekanan is stacked with a fathroom on the walls of the trench. For fixing the canvas to the walls, wooden or plastic pegs are used, which are driven into the ground. After that, a 10 cm layer of rubble fraction 50-60 is falling asleep on the laid geotextile and is carefully smoothed with adherence to the slope. Drainage pipe from Ø 110 mm is stacked on crushed stone.
5. In places of rotation of the drain, modular viewing wells are installed. The diameter and height of the well depends on the estimated volume of wastewater. To connect the pipe to the mounting hole, a coupling is used, which is used before docking with a water-resistant sealant. Similar actions are carried out to connect the drainage pipe to the well pipe.

   The observation drainage well is installed in places where the drainage pipe is rotated.

6. Before frowning, the drainage system is checked for performance. For this, the drains merged with a large amount of water. If the water flocks quickly and falls into the well, then everything is done correctly and you can move to the final stage. In other cases, it is necessary to search and troubleshoot the problem.
7. On top of the drainage pipes, 20-30 cm of the gravel layer of the fraction of the fraction 20-40 are poured and smoking carefully. After that, drain with laid crushes is hidden by geotextiles. On top of the geotic, 10-15 cm layer of career sand and thoroughly tamper. The remaining space in the trench can be covered with fertile soil or ordinary soil from the site.

Ways to drain the plot without drainage

Excessive moisture in the soil and water waters are not always associated with a high level of groundwater. Sometimes this is due to an anomalous low temperature and abundant precipitation. The combination of these factors leads to the fact that moisture does not have time to evaporate, puddles are formed and mold on the surface of the soil.

Punching of clay soil - one of the ways to drainage without drainage

If, due to certain circumstances, the device of the drainage system is impossible, then there are several effective ways to drain the land plot:

Of the above methods of draining the site, the most effective is the addition of sufficient amount of fertile soil and the arrangement of tranches around the perimeter. On average, 1 m 3 of soil will cost 550-600 rubles. On a plot of 6 acres are enough 10-12 m 3 of soil.

The easiest way to drainage soil on the plot

The arrangement of shallow trenches filled with rubble is the easiest way to drain the country area. Despite the common simplicity, this method is very effective and able to cope with a large amount of water formed during the melting of snow.

Work on the arrangement of trenches around the perimeter and area of \u200b\u200bthe site includes the following:

If desired, the second layer of rubble can be reduced, and the remaining space is sprayed with soil from the site. This will allow you to hide drainage under the layer of Run. On top of the drainage trench, it is not recommended to plant flowers and greens. This is fraught with their death due to high humidity in this place.

How to clean the blockage in the drain pipe

Failure to comply with the technology of laying drainage pipes is the main cause of stroke and poor drain of water from distribution wells. In addition, very often the stress of water is not associated with a clog. The insufficient bias does not provide a permanent and uniform drain of the accumulated water towards the drainage pit.

For cleaning small blocks, steel cable or hose with strong water pressure

The easiest way to clean drainage pipes is the use of a steel cable for cleaning sewers. At one end of the cable there is a spiral nozzle, on the other - a handle, with which you can rotate the cable, creating a mechanical load at the place of the blockage.

To clean the pipes Ø110 mm and it is recommended to use the cable with the steel rod of the appropriate size. In the process of cleaning, it is necessary to lower the cable into the drainage tube until its end reaches the blockage. Next, using the rotation of the cable clockwise, you need to try to break the blockage or shift it towards the drain of water. Usually, small clusters of sludge and foliage pushed out without much difficulty.

If it is not possible to eliminate the blockage, it will be necessary to call specialists who, with the help of a pneumatic installation and other equipment, not only clean the blockage, but also carry out preventive cleaning of the entire surface of the drainage pipes.

Video: Drainage of the site do it yourself

The oversaturation of the soil moisture and the water wet on the site are a big problem that affects not only the growth of fruiting crops, but also reduces the life of the residential structure. But it is worth remembering that with an abrasiveness of water you can cope with the help of a drainage system. Much worse, if fresh water and moisture grabbing, and the arrangement of the well is impossible due to certain circumstances.

Experienced builders and country residents know well that the "extra" water on the plot is bad. Excess water leads to the flooding of the foundation and the ground floor, washing the base, flooding the beds, the root of the territory, etc. As a result, in the spring, autumn and even in the summer in the country, it is impossible to pass without rubber boots.

In this article, consider:

• How to equip water removal on the site.
• How do you make a budget storm sewer.
• Device drainage. How to make an inexpensive drainage and drain the wetland.

What water prevents the development of developer and country household

On the types of surface and groundwater, as well as the drainage and system of storm sewage can be written a separate book. Therefore, we leave a detailed listing of types and causes of groundwater, but concentrating in practice. But without minimal theoretical knowledge, it is taken for independent arrangement of drainage and storm sewage - throw money into the wind.

The fact is that even incorrectly made drainage system for the first few years. Then due to the colmattail (casing), the pipes wrapped in a geotextile, which was put in clay, loamy, etc. Soil, drainage stops working. And the money on the arrangement of drainage is already spent and, most importantly - the construction of drainage is associated with a large volume of earthworks with the involvement of equipment.

Therefore, it is easy to dig and shift the drainage pipe in 3-5 years after its bookmark - it is difficult and consolidated. The plot already lies, the landscape design is made, the scene is equipped, a gazebo, a bath, etc.

We'll have to break your head like removing drainage so as not to turn the entire area.

From here - the construction of drainage should always be based on the data of the geological study of the soil (Which will help to find a waterproof layer in the form of clay at a depth of 1.5-2 m), hydrogeological surveys and clear knowledge, which water leads to the flooding of the house or the root of the site.

Surface water is seasonal, associated with the snowmast period and the rain. Underground waters are divided into three main groups:

• Capillary water.
• Groundwater.
• Ripper.

Moreover, surface water, if it does not take it on time, with infiltration (absorbing) into the ground turns into underground water.

The volume of surface waters usually exceeds the volume of groundwater.

Output: surface drain should be removed by storm (rain) sewer, And do not try to make a superficial drainage!

Storm sewage is a system consisting of trays, pipes or dwiners, breakaged in the ground, taking water from the drain from the site + competent organization of the relief in the household territory. This will help to avoid stagnant areas on the site (lenses, pools), where water will accumulate, which simply has nowhere to go, and further fear.

Basic errors that are allowed during self-contained drainage device:

• Failure to comply with the right slope of laid drainage pipes. If you take averaged, the slope is withstanding from 0.005 to 0.007, i.e. 5-7 mm per 1 p. Drainage pipe.

• Use the drainage pipe in a geotextile winding on the "wrong" soil. The tube in geotextile to avoid its casing is used on soils consisting of pure medium and coarse-grained sands.

• Use instead of the cheaper limestone crushed stone instead, which over time is blurred by water.
• Savings on high-quality geotextile, which should have certain hydraulic properties affecting the quality of drainage. This is an effective pore size of 175 μR, i.e. 0.175 mm, as well as transverse CF, which should be at least 300 m / soute (with a single pressure gradient).

Inexpensive storm sewage by their hands

The first thing that comes to mind is to equip the budget version of the storm sewage in the site - to lay special trays.

Trays can be made of concrete or plastic, but the price of them "bites". It forces users of our portal to seek cheaper options for arranging storm sewage and drainage systems from the site.

Denis1235 Member Forumhouse

I need to make an inexpensive livneemka, about 48 m long, along the edge of the fence, for the removal of melt waters that come from a neighbor. Water must be left into the ditch. Thought how to make a water removal. At first, it was necessary to buy and install special trays, but then they will remain "extra" lattices, and a special aesthetics for livnevka is not required. I decided to buy asbetic pipes and cut them with a grinder along, thereby receiving homemade tray.

Despite the budget of this idea, the presence of the need to sing asbotic tubes of the user did not attract. The second option is the ability to buy drain gutter (plastic or metal) and put them on a prepared base in a layer of concrete about 100 mm.

Portal users dissolved Denis1235 From this idea in favor of the first option, which is more durable.

Hooking for the idea of \u200b\u200ban inexpensive strawberry, but not wanting to bind to independent sawing pipes, Denis1235found a plant that produces asbestos-cement pipes, where they are immediately cut into pieces of 2 m long (so that when transporting it is not cracked the 4-meter) and bring ready-made trays to the site. It remains only to develop a scheme of laying trays.

The following "Pie" turned out:

• Ground base in the form of a bed.
• Sand layer or PGS with a thickness of about 5 cm.
• Concrete about 7 cm.
• Tray from asbestos-cement pipe.

When the device is such a strain, do not forget to lay a metal mesh (for reinforcement) to the joints and leave the deformation gap (3-5 mm) between the trays.

Denis1235

As a result, I made a budget livnee at the cottage. It was gone: 2 days for a king of the trench, two more days on concreting and installation of the track. I spent 10 thousand rubles on the trays.

Practice has shown that the track perfectly "overwhelmed" did not cracked and intercepts water from a neighbor, leaving the plot dry. Also interesting is an option for rain (storm) sewage user portal with nickname yury_BY..

yury_BY Member Forumhouse.

Because The crisis does not think to end, then I thought about how to arrange a storm sewer for rainwater in the house. I want to solve the problem, and save, and do everything qualitatively.

Thinking, the user decided to make a shower for removing water on the basis of flexible double-wall corrugated pipes (they are cheaper 2 times than "red" sewer), which are used for laying power cables under the ground. But, because The depth of the occurrence of the drainage route is planned only in 200-300 mm with a pipe diameter of 110 mm, yury_BY.it was afraid that the gofrotruube when water enters the water between two layers can break in winter.

Eventually yury_BY. I decided to take the budget "gray" pipe that is used in the arrangement of internal sewage. Although he had concerns that pipes that do not possess such rigidity as "redheads" breaks in the ground, the practice has shown that nothing happened to them.

yury_BY.

If she turns into an oval on the "gray" pipe, but in the place where I buried it, there are no significant loads. Only the lawn is laid and there are pedestrian loads. Setting the pipe into the trench and sprinkled with her soil, I was convinced that they hold the form, and the livnevka was working.

So I liked the option to install an inexpensive straw on the basis of "gray" sewer pipes that he decided to repeat it. All the nuances of the process clearly demonstrate the following photos.

Copy pit under the collection of water.

Align the base level.

Install the concrete ring.

The next stage - we fall asleep at the bottom of the fusion of the gravel fraction 5-20.

Mixed from concrete homemade well lid.

Mobile hatch lid.

We make the insert in the well of the drainage plastic "gray" sewer pipe, withsting the slope of the track in 1 cm for 1 mongor meter.

Sing the pipe with a mixture of sand with water so that there are no emptiness between the walls of the trench and the pipe.

So that the pipe does not fall, it can be pressed by brick or board.

We put the lid, mount the hatch and fall asleep everything with soil.

On this, the manufacture of budget livnev is completed.

Construction of inexpensive drainage and drainage of a wetland

Not everyone gets "Right" sites. In SNT or in new cuts, the Earth can be very wetrated, or the developer of a peatman. Build on such an earth a normal house under permanent residence, and not a light summer cottage - and difficult, and expensive. There are two exits from this situation - sell / exchange a plot or deal with drainage and bringing the site by order.

In order not to deal with various expensive alterations in the future, the users of our portal offer budget variants of drainage and drainage of the territory on the basis of automotive tires. This option saves a family budget.

Yuri Madigama Member Forumhouse

Peat soil is characterized by a high level of groundwater. In my area, water is almost in the surface, and after the rain does not go to the ground. To remove the upper water, it must be thrown out of the site. I did not spend money on the purchase of special pipes for drainage, and made drainage from automotive tires.

The system is mounted as follows - the channel is rotated, the auto strokes are stacked, the tires are covered with polyethylene, so that the earth does not fall inside. Polyethylene can also additionally press "unnecessary" in the household slicer slices. This will increase the overall rigidity of the structure. Water falls into the "Tirep" pipeline and then retire beyond the site.

But there are more "heavy" places where much more is to do.

Seryoga567 Member Forumhouse

I have a plot in SNT, with a total area of \u200b\u200b8 acres. The site has a building that I plan to complete and expand. Place is very low. Because drainage grooves for drainage in SNT, they are in a deplorable state, where buried, litter or clogged, then the water does not go anywhere. The cov is so high that water from the well can be drawn a bucket, holding it for the handle. In the spring, the water in the country is standing for a long time, the site is actually turning into a swamp and, if she enhances, then only in the summer in the world. Nobody wants to bring drainage drangies in order, so everything is swimming. Therefore, I decided that it was useless to fight my neighbors. It is necessary to raise your site and find a way to give all the "unnecessary" water from the plot.

Options, how to make drainage around the house, there are several numbers. However, upon closer examination, the closed drainage system is optimal, in whose arrangement there are quite a few secrets.

The drainage system around the house - why is it needed?

Typical building delusion (inherent in people without experience, but with money) is the substitution of fundamental concepts. Drainage does not replace the foundation waterproofing! Beautifully isolated from moisture foundation still needs a drainage system! The reason lies in the depths of your site - in the alternating layers of clay and the sublink, in seasonal changes in the level of groundwater.

No less important is the relative height of the site on the ground - the smaller it is, that the drainage device around the house is more relevant. The amount of precipitation and the outer permeability of the soil also contribute to the need to arrange drainage. There are many factors, and not all of them can be taken into account before the construction of the house. And they manifest themselves quite tangible - in the form of basement mold, fungi on the beams and in other indous views.

Therefore, the drainage system is laid at the stage of earthworks, when digging a cottage for the house. All other drainage patterns of melt and groundwater, atmospheric precipitation, etc. It should be recognized by latching holes on a sprawling shirt, although for objectivity, consider them.

How to make drainage around the house - Installation options

These are only three, and the first two are performed with large reservations. They carry the potential danger of life and health of residents and are rather relevant for those houses in which there are no children:

• Open option. A ditch is digging around the house, and its depth must exceed the depth of the foundation. The width of the ditch can be narrow, plus it is necessary to perform a bias for natural water drain. As a result, a slotted trench appears on its own site, which is fatally reflected on the impressiveness of the appearance. It can be decorated with outer floors, but the danger of falling into such a ditch of children and animals is preserved;
• Filing option. The same open ditch, but filled with a butte stone, slag blocks, rubble and decorated with turden. Nobody falls into it, but the technical operation of the falling system is fundamentally impossible. In case of emergency clogging, drainage will have to open the entire ditch, and the problem area will have to localize the problem zone. That is, it will be necessary to launch the entire area as if you are looking for a treasure;
• Closed option. It is performed by drainage pipes, safe and effective, allows maintenance and various ways of arrangement. It will be considered in more detail: how to make drainage on the plot with your own hands through sword pipes. And let's start with their choice.

How to make drainage on the plot - do it yourself choose pipes

Drainage pipes are produced by our (and not ours) industry of the following varieties:

• Asbo-cement, the most durable, durable ... and heavy. Additional joy delivers the need to make through dust cuts in them, in checkered and sufficiently extended - every 15-20 cm in size at least 5 mm. Manufacturers rest on the duration of the operation of such pipes, which reaches 50 years, and asbotic itself is not afraid of aggressive media;
• Ceramic - that is, simply clay. So, fragile, they can be damaged at the stage of transportation and storage. However, some varieties of ceramic pipes are good for the presence of additional surface grooves, they contribute to the enhanced moisture collection. The perforation of ceramic pipes is similar to asbetic, that is, it is performed independently, at the place. Installation is hampered by the low strength of ceramic drainage material;
• Porous pipes are made of plastic, clay glass and other modern building materials. At all do not need perforations due to their porous structure - moisture is collected by capillary channels in the walls. Financially, efficient drainage is provided with a significant diameter of pipes;
• Polymer pipes are polypropylene, polyethylene and other plastics. Light, economical, convenient when installing and effective for a long service life - 90% of drainage works in private homes are performed by them.

Drainage device around the house - do it yourself and step by step

Step-by-step instructions with practical advice, how to make drainage around the house, consists of the following stages on its arrangement:

Drainage around the house do it yourself - a step-by-step scheme

Step 1: AMLEXER

We determine the lower point of your site - yes, yes, the trench will have to pull it, there will be a drain well. Because avoiding mold in your basement is important, but also to prevent soil wetlastics either will not be superfluous. With the flat nature of the site, the presence of high grass and other external complications of the lower point will help determine theodolite. This tool can be rented or asked for acquaintances - you will not attach it to the subjects of permanent construction.

The ditches around the house should have a slope of at least 1 centimeter on the temporon meter. Water will flow and with a bias of 3 mm per meter, but in our drainage will go dirty moisture, with small sand and loam, the inner surface of the pipes will cover the flare. So you have to lay a slope of at least 10 mm per 1 meter. This will lead to an increase in the volume of earthworks, but will serve for the benefit of the durability of the drainage system.

Step 2: Excavation

Kopaite, Shura, they are gold ... The ditch depth around the house should exceed the bottom point of the foundation, at least 30 cm. Also, and therefore drainage works are performed at the stage of the pit, because It is still digging "with a margin" sufficient to bookbar. For the land stage of the work, an acute bayonet shovel is needed, there will be no superfluous, and the Soviet helper will be for lifting the soil.

The upper dot dot is on the opposite side of the drainage well at the bottom of the site, the width of the ditch is about 50 cm. Each time point meter must be checked by a bubble level for compliance with the necessary slope.

Step 3: Fucking and loose

On the bottom of our trench, the crushed stone of fractions of 10-15 mm - that is, quite large. The sand layer and trambed is stacked on top. The total thickness of the sandy-gravel layer is approximately 15 cm. It is necessary to accurately withstand the slope profile - 1 cm per meter visually recognized badly, especially in a narrow trench. Again we use the level, the uniformity of the slope is important for the long-term samboy of water in drainage pipes.

The bottom of the trench with a wall at least 60-70 cm on each side is covered with geotextiles, this material will not give moisture to go down, to the gravel-sand layer. In the joints of the geotextile bands, we make a wide nestrest. From above, we fall asleep rubble, already a small thickness - 5-7 mm, repeating the lines of the slope.

Step 4: Finally drainage

On the second chicken surface, drainage pipes are stacked. Their joints are isolated by a special ribbon. At least in two opposite corners of the house, viewing wells are laid with lids - their height should immediately match the level of the turf on the household platform.

The pipeline is pulled to observation and drainage wells and check water filling from the top point, at least several buckets. So far, drainage communications are open, any error to fix easily. When there is no doubt about the accuracy of the slope and tightness of the joints, the pipes can be filled.

There are some. But, if you understand this issue, you can find out that the optimal option is the closed drainage system.

Appointment of drainage around the house

There is one very common misconception inherent in all inexperienced, but rich people: drainage may well replace the waterproofing of the foundation. In fact, it is not so! Even if it is good to isolate the foundation from the penetration of water, then the drainage system is needed in any case. To identify the reasons for this, it is necessary to "peel into the root" - the house of the loam of loam with clay alternate, and the height of the groundwater in different seasons may differ.

Another important factor is the height of your yard regarding the area. The smaller is this height, the more drainage is needed around your housing. Also here include atmospheric precipitation and the water permeability of the soil. In a word, such factors mass, take into account them all, even before the construction of the house began, is impossible. But all of them will soon show themselves either in the form of moss or mold.

To avoid the adverse effects of excessive moisture, drainage must be installed before the construction of the building, at the stage of earthworks. Regarding other methods of water removal - it is rather eliminating holes in a sinking ship. Maybe effectively, but temporarily.

How to make drainage around the house do it yourself

Drainage options There are several, but, repeat, it is better to use closed. Other types are undesirable.

1. Closed version of drainage. Special drainage pipes are used for it, it is completely safe, there is a possibility of maintenance, as well as several options for arrangement.
2. Open option. In this case, a trench rotates around the house, the depth of which will exceed the depth of the foundation. It can be a narrow, but necessarily under a slope, so that water could flock naturally. As a result, we get some kind of slit on the site, which is entirely completely destroying all its attractiveness. It can be decorated with something, try to disguise, but the likelihood that your children will fall there is very high.
3. Freight. In principle, there is the same trench around the house, but on top of it fall asleep with rubble and fall asleep with a broken brick, if desired, it is possible to decorate the turf. No one can fall here, but there can be a speech about maintenance. If the drainage system clogs, then it will be necessary to break up everything, as it is visually determined, in which a clogging happened, you cannot.

Choosing pipes to create drainage

After we have determined with the type of drainage system, you need to select pipes.

Varieties of drainage pipes of domestic and foreign production

Important! It is best to use pipes with already existing perforation, as this significantly simplifies the installation. Consequently, polymer pipes are most suitable, in which the diameter can different, but for drainage they are used mainly 100-110 mm.

Polymer Pipe Prices

polymer pipes

Closed drainage with your own hands

Below is a step-by-step technology of the drainage device. It consists of several stages.

Earth measurements

First you need to determine the lowest point on its site. It is here that the future trench will be stretching, and the drain well will be here. This is because at least the mold in the basement is extremely undesirable, but also a wetlasting soil will not bring the benefit. If your section is smooth, high grass grows on it or there are another complications, then only one thing will help you - theodolite.

This tool is better to take someone from someone or rent, buy it is not profitable.

Ditches that will be around the house should be under the bias of the order of one centimeter on the temporon meter. It may seem that it is too much, as water flows and on a five millionth bias, but in reality it is not so. Under the drainage system, dirty water with sand, clay, so that with time the pipe is formed, therefore a centimeter slope is the most, and let the scope of work increases, but at the same time the durability of the system increases.

Digging ditch

Now you can proceed to the installation of drainage pipes.

Installation of drainage pipes

Important! Do not forget that the pipes should be laid with the slope toward the drain well!

All our drainage system must be installed using fittings. This is done before it will be covered with the last gravel layer.

Open drainage technology

Open drainage is the easiest way to fence at home from atmospheric precipitation. Material costs are minimal, work is carried out insignificant, but there is a danger that someone can fall into such a drainage. For work, only a shovel and roulette will be required. Drive the perimeter of the house by an open channel in 50 cm wide and a depth of 70 cm, about a meter from the wall. Its walls should be under a slope of approximately 30 °. Water that fell into the ditch will be dragged into a specially created waste jam, which can be done common to several buildings. To move the water into the pit, the large ditch connecting all the minor.

It is advisable to fall asleep the bottom of the ditch of rubble, so that the water stream did not blur the soil.

Important! Open drainage is particularly effective when melting snow.

If the country area is located on the slope, then open drainage systems will effectively remove water. In this case, the ditch, diverted across the slope, will perform the "interception" of the current water, after which the latter will be directed in the general direction, and then in the drain pit outside the yard.

Drainage technology

As mentioned earlier, for the construction of a falling drainage system, we will need materials:

• Large crushed stone;
• Gravel;
• Broken brick (instead of gravel or combined with him).

In general, the technology of a flowing system is reminded by a lot of closed, only the pipes are not used here - instead of them, the ditch is half filled with large fractions or broken bricks. Further, gravel is falling asleep, the finishing layer is the soil with a turder.

But this type of drainage is clogged pretty quickly, and it is very difficult to clean it. Because of the falling drainage and is considered the least effective and durable. So, at least partially correct it, it is recommended to put a geotextile between the gravel layer and the soil, and the walls and bottom of the ditches are covered with the material. After that, the water will not be absorbed into the ground. Such waterproofing should not only completely cover the ditch, but also to go for about 0.3 meters on each side. Then the broken brick or crushed stone is falling asleep, which is covered with left edges of the material. After that, the finishing layer is stacked.

In the manufacture of tepton, modern technologies are used, which allows to obtain a material that almost does not rot when contact with water. And this is an excellent opportunity to increase the efficiency of such a unreliable system as a falling drainage.

Other ways to install drainage. Foundation Scene

The base of the foundation is a lane of concrete or asphalt, arranged around the perimeter of the whole house. It is made under a stupid angle relative to the wall of the wall. This is not only an effective way to protect the foundation from moisture, but also a decorative element of the house. The function of the scene is simple - to divelly or raindlaws from the foundation.

Important! If the soil on which the house is built is uncommon and dry, or more, the foundation of the house is columnal, then there is no need for a breakfast. In all other cases, it is necessary to do this, because the wet foundation will not be able to live.

What material to choose for the scene?

For this purpose, we can use one of the following materials:

• Galvanized steel sheets;
• Dog stone;
• Asphalt;
• Clay;
• Concrete plates;
• Brick;
• Concrete.

It is concrete that is most popular, in view of its excellent characteristics - high strength and durability. But there is another material, relatively "young" and not known to anyone - profiled PVP membranes, perfectly insulating from moisture penetration and non-oral cracks.

Such a membrane falls on the ground, and on top of her sand and crushed stone. You can take such a design by virtually anything, even the flowerbed or lawn above it. To do this, it should be put on crushed stone another layer of turf thick about 20 centimeters.

Finally, the easiest way to make drainage around the house is to take a plastic tube and cut it along into two parts. Trimming pipes lay along the perimeter under a slight slope directed toward the water flow. Also, special drainage channels equipped with plastic lattices are made for this purpose.

And remember! All other drainage methods, in addition to the system with a prejudged pit, are secondary. Their effectiveness is an order of magnitude lower, but may not be about durability and speech.

Video - how to make drainage around the house do it yourself