How to eliminate a hole in the aluminum saucepan. How to close a hole in an enameled saucepan

The execution of the soldering of stainless steel refers to very laborious processes. Observing the technology of soldering, as well as given all the features, this procedure is much easier. It is relatively easy to process metal stainless steel from nickel, chromium with a metal share of no more than 25%. Such materials make it possible to obtain high quality of the sword compounds even from metal heterogeneous parts with the exception of aluminum alloys, as well as magnesium. The most technologically simple processes include a soldering of stainless steel by tin.

Facilities soldering steel stainless steel

The use of tin soldiers is perfect for soldering small elements, as well as repair at home. Without special problems, you can panhouses in a saucepan, a bowl, a mug, or other household items from a stainless steel with a conventional electrician and tin.

For highly responsible soldering compounds, alloys of special grades based on phosphorus, nickel are used. In addition, materials from chromium, nickel, manganese are widely used. This group is well suited when operating in the gases environment with a mixture of a three-fusion boron with argon. With such a soldering, the solder can perform copper in its pure form, which perfectly performs metal wetting followed by a solid compound.

Before soldering the stainless steel, it is recommended to familiarize yourself with the technological process, as well as the features of different methods of working with the metal. After viewing the appropriate video, you can get detailed information about all features of the working procedure. The execution of the soldering of a variety of products from food and industrial stainless steel has many nuances that pay attention to when choosing a method of soldering, as well as necessary for this consumables.

Used equipment

Proper work with stainless steel items requires theoretical preparation and familiarization with the process itself through video materials. For the soldering of stainless metal at home, the following equipment and materials are used:

  • eccer order of 100 W or gas burner;
  • flux for soldering of stainless steel in the form of a special soldering acid;
  • grinding skin, metal brush or file;
  • solvent (acetone);
  • solder;
  • protective gloves and fabric for wiping.

In addition to the main tools, materials may be needed additional accessories depending on the type of the part being processed. Spacement of large-scale products may require the use of electric power equipment. It is necessary for good warm-up of connecting places. Note that this power tool is used exclusively when working with soft (alloy) samples of type PIT or from tin. Pure metal is excellent for repair of dishes, where orthophosphoric acid is used as a flux. It provides excellent alloy grasp on the site of the spike.

Solder types and selection features

It is possible to solder items from stainless steel steel, with your own hands, both soft-type alloys and solid. Solder for soldering of the non-alloy type stainless steel has a lead, as well as tin and designated by a brand of pic. Solid alloys consist of refractory metals.

The presence of tin gives the material high liquid process, as well as good plasticity in the molten form. This is especially convenient when seating stainless items, as tin-swintsoy material has an excellent deoxidizing effect. Before soldering with Tin's stainless steel, video will demonstrate beginners all the features of this process.

The most durable compounds are obtained using solid alloys. Soldering parts from stainless steel with their help is performed in the home, as well as production conditions. Often solid alloys have technical silver. The value of this silver component can reach up to 30% of the total number of metals in the alloy. There are such carbide rods of the PSR brand.

It is good to solder stainless products, copper, as well as from brass, nickel, bronze, cast iron and other metals when using the HTS-528 brand alloy. Its surface initially has a flux layer of a reddish shade, which allows you to easily smear a variety of items. It must be borne in mind that this rod melts at 760 ° C.

Advantages and disadvantages of soldering tin

The use of tin materials has its own characteristics when working. These soft alloys have some advantages that facilitate the soldering process:

  • ease and speed of repair of small products;
  • lack of a long preparatory procedure;
  • low price of consumables;
  • in the processing process, the turnover of stainless steel is reduced, which makes it easier to work;
  • high quality compounds for many products are low responsibility.

In addition to explicit positive qualities, there are some shortcomings of the use of tin alloys:

  • soldering has low mechanical strength compared to other methods of performing all-in-block connections;
  • reducing the temperature mode of operation of parts due to the presence of tin;
  • complications for soldering due to high yields.

Common mistakes

The main trouble in the spawning of items made of stainless steel steel is the uneven distribution of the alloy on the processed area. This happens because of a bad stripping site of soldering, as well as insufficient heating of the surfaces of the surfaces, especially with their large sizes.

The work process affects the correct selection of flux and the corresponding solder. In addition to the borants, soldering acids are used as the flux material used. The process of processing sections with tin can cause difficulties in its incorrect consistency. For a good propk, it should be in a liquid form.

Avoiding these basic errors in spawning allows you to get a compound of high strength and durability. Do not forget to make a connecting seam cool. At the same time, it is impossible to expose the product to mechanical exposure, as well as shift. At the end of the procedure, rinse the spike plot well. This is necessary to remove flux and alloy remnants from the surface of the part.

Technology performing work

How to solder a stainless steel at normal home? The beginning of the soldering procedure consists of preparing products. For this, they are cleaned of dirt and oxide film. Mechanical work is performed by a grinding skin or a circular, a metal brush. Before soldering any stainless steel, it is required to degrease the area of \u200b\u200bthe solvent, acetone. The subsequent stage consists of reducing the flux to the area of \u200b\u200bthe processed item. When using a combined type solder, the flux material is not used.

The soldered place is heated using an electric tip with an irradiated tip or gas burner. It is required to constantly monitor the amount of oxygen in the flame, since its oversuetting will lead to additional oxidation of the metal product. The burning tongue should have bright blue color.

Moving smoothly burner, the entire connected area is heated. For control over its condition, the solder bar is periodically applied. If it begins to melt - the surface temperature is suitable for processing. A used alloy is placed in a soldered seam, gradually filling the area of \u200b\u200bthe joint by molten metal. For the uniform alloy distribution, you can additionally warm the place. Ensuring the good strength of the soldered seam is achieved in the presence of solder, the surplus of which will flow from the processed joint. Soldering of stainless steel at home is presented on a video that reveals the features of the process.

To get high quality spikes and speed up the process, it is recommended to fill in advance to contact the contacts. After that, the combination of products is performed, heating to the state of melting of the solder. If necessary, the re-soldering is additionally applied flux and heating with the help of a gas burner or an electric device. This process is performed until a complete uniform coating of the junction of the connection is connected. At the end of the soldering process, the product is cooled and is washed well to remove the remaining flux or solder.

Saving steel sheets in a laying can be performed using a soldering paste consisting of a flux with a solder. The processed contact area of \u200b\u200bone part is covered with this mass, is rigidly fixed with the other detail and warms up from two sides.

Before performing a soldering of stainless steel at home, take care of compliance with precautions when working with hazardous materials and hot objects. Provide good ventilation at the site of soldering and fear of the vapor of molten metals.

By many specialists, the dispensing of stainless steel with tin is considered a very difficult procedure, since there is a special role in the behavior of such a metal. This solder is considered to be a more efficient use, for spawning of stainless steel.

This method is considered popular for the majority, who faces such procedures, but not always, it turns out to achieve the result required by quality. Such a dawn is mainly used to connect small materials, where it is necessary to bore small parts, as well as it is used for sealing various small cracks, and other similar defects. Here, the availability of requirements is not too large, however, the digestion must be produced at the highest level in quality. Solders for such work are made in the rods having resemblance to wire for welding. Paving stainless steel with tin in industrial spheres is used quite rare, unlike home environments. It does not matter what the solder process is carried out, a soldering iron or burner, all the same when exposed to temperature, the material will quickly spread, so it is necessary to carry out neat movements to obtain the best result. Also, for a high-quality connection, it will be necessary to correctly configure the necessary parameters and modes using adjustment, as well as choose the appropriate consumables. Such work is carried out on the specifications that must comply with GOST 860-75.

The advantages of the stainless steel soldering process with tin

  • Thanks to this process, it is possible to simply and as quickly as possible to carry out the process on the sealing of small breakdowns, without applying complex procedures;
  • Such works do not occupy a lot of time and long-term preparatory procedures;
  • Prices for consumables are respectively large;
  • Thanks to the property of tin, which makes less fluidity when exposed to large temperatures, the spawning process occurs more conveniently and is not problematic unlike other soldiers;
  • In all variants of soldering, the final result owns a high level of quality accordingly.

Stainless steel soldering disadvantages with tin

  • The soldering process is not strong enough compared with other methods of obtaining a lifting connection;
  • When using tin, the temperature range of the manufacturer becomes lower, since such a metal can be melted;
  • There are inconveniences in the process of compounding stainless steel due to high yields.

Equipment and devices

In the work on spawning stainless steel, all necessary devices are required, such as:

  • Soldering iron or gas burner;
  • Solvent;
  • Solder;
  • Metal brush;
  • Flux;
  • Mittens for protection;
  • Material for wiping.

Recommends to acquire a soldering iron that has a power of 100 W, since less power models will not be able to melt the material to the necessary stage. When the details are soldered with large dimensions, then most likely need a soldering iron more powerful. The sting of the adaptation should be non-aggravated, long-term long-term will increase significantly.

It must be remembered that the soldering iron is considered not a fairly universal device, since its possibilities are limited only to the solders that are easily melted. Here, for more properly soldering, bars are suitable, fully consisting of tin, or a rod for welding from the village series. The option of the first type is perfect for various dishes and other similar containers, since there are no impurities. Instead of using flux, it is recommended to use orthophosphoric acid for these procedures. Such a substance requires the surface of the future compound, for the highest level of quality.

Selection of solder and other materials

For the process of spawning stainless steel with a soldering iron, it is necessary to select the solder correctly, since the final result depends on this selection. One of the most sought-after species is considered a series of pos. Such a kind of soldering, in contrast to the simple tin, is produced in the form of bars with the presence of complementary pork enclosures, thanks to which the properties of the material are changed in a positive side. There are several brands of such a series:

Such solders can in themselves not only tin, still cadmium, lead and other metals. If it is necessary to carry out the process of spawning products that will be used for food, it is required to trace that there is nothing in the material except tin, since other metals can harm your body.

A small difficulty is the choice of a suitable flux, since not everyone will suit. In such a case, a special active flux will be required, soldering acid, orthophosphoric acid or zinc chloride acts in the rollery. It is recommended to immediately begin work, after applying it to the metal surface, since the flux can be combined with the film.

Stainless steel soldering technology with tin

Before carrying out the process of spawning stainless steel tin, it is required to conduct preparatory procedures with metal. Initially, it is necessary to carry out a mechanical process using a metal brush or sandpaper, depending on the thickness of the workpiece.

Then it will be necessary to remove the oxide film appearing on the metal surface, and also from fat appearances and other contaminants using a solvent, acetone and other chemicals. Then, it is necessary to apply a flux to the clean surface, in case the combined solder, which already has a similar substance, is not used. After performing all the preparatory procedures, you can directly switch to the digest process. To do this, it will be necessary to heat the part with a burner or soldering iron. If the burner is used, then you need to carefully look at the oxygen level, because when it disadvantages it, the metal will begin to be oxidation.

Whatever such an important nuance is needed, you will need to pay attention to the flame color, because if the composition is oversaturated, it will become light blue. To melting the solder, it will be necessary to heat the entire compound area to the required temperature, since its melting depends not on the burner, but from the metal heated. Solder puts on the place where the parts are connected, acting slowly, until all the place is filled.

Quality control

Such a process is carried out according to GOST 19249-73. There may be methods for controlling the destruction and without. The main are:

  • Radiation control;
  • Technical inspection;
  • RadioCopy method.

Caution measures

If the spawning of stainless steel with tin is carried out at home, then the rules of electrical safety must be performed. The main problem is that you can get a burn, from the soldering iron in touching with him, and more with a metal or a solder. Requires the presence of a necessary metal stand, where you can put a soldering iron to avoid its interaction with various objects especially with flammable things. It is recommended to produce work in the ventilated rooms, since evaporation from metals and the solder itself negatively affect the respiratory system.

Tin stainless steel soldering for many is a rather complicated process, as the peculiarity of the behavior of this metal plays his role. Such a solder is one of the best options that can be used for stainless steel. This is a standard method that is familiar to many who are engaged in soldering, but in the case of stainless steel, you can not always guarantee a qualitative and reliable result. This process is used, as a rule, for small connections when you need to attach minor parts. It is also necessary when chosening small cracks and other similar defects. The compound requirements are not as high as welding, however, it is necessary to do everything as high quality. Solder for such procedures is supplied in the rods that are similar to the welding wire.

In industry, this method is not as often used as the soldering of stainless steel by Tin at home. Regardless of whether soldering the soldering iron, or with the help of a gas burner, the material quickly spreads and all actions must be neat. To reduce the negative impact, you should correctly select operation modes, as well as consumables. In technical conditions, all this is carried out according to GOST 860-75.

Advantages of the soldering of the rolling stainless steel

  • Tin stainless steel soldering helps relatively easy and quickly close small breakdowns without resorting to complex procedures;
  • The process itself takes a long time and does not require long-term preparation;
  • Consumables have a relatively small cost;
  • Tin reduces the fluidity of the stainless steel when soldering, which makes the process less complicated than with other solders;
  • For many options, the end result has a fairly good quality.

Disadvantages of soldering in stainless steel tin

  • Skaika is inferior to many other processes of obtaining an incomplete connection along the fortress, so it cannot be applied for responsible structures;
  • Due to the use of tin, the temperature range of the parts is reduced, since the material may melt;
  • Difficulties are left with stainless steel behavior in liquid state.

Tin soldering modes

Flame temperature burner, degrees goal

Preparation of equipment and necessary materials

We solden a tin stainless steel involves the correct selection of tools and other equipment. To do this, you will need:

  • Soldering iron or gas burner;
  • Solvent;
  • Solder;
  • Metal brush;
  • Flux;
  • Protective gloves;
  • Fabric for wiping.

The soldering iron is desirable to take a power of 100 watts, since less powerful models will not be able to melt the material.

If we are talking about large sizes, then a more powerful soldering iron may be required. The sting of the tool should be unhealthy, as it significantly increases its service life. It should be noted that the capabilities of the soldering iron are limited, as it can only work with low-foam solders. For such a soldering, the bars of pure tin or a rod from the village series will be best.

The first option is well suited for dishes and other tanks, since it does not contain impurities. As a flux, it is best for this species to use orthophosphoric acid. It needs to handle places where the metal will be launched and then the grasp will be at a much higher level.

Selection of solder and other materials

Soldering of stainless steel soldering iron assumes the competent selection of solder, as the quality of the connection will depend on it. One of the most popular in this planet is the "pos" series. Unlike the ordinary tin, which is sold for soldering in the form of bars, has even additional inclusions of lead, which changes the properties of the material. It is worth paying attention to the brands:

They may contain not only tin, but also cadmium, lead and other metals. If you need to solder parts that will come into contact with food products, then in the material, except tin, nothing superfluous should be, since the other things may be harmful to health. For a stainless steel, it is difficult to choose a flux, as not everyone can come in handy here. Here, the so-called "active flux" is required, which is soldered by soldering acid, orthophosphoric acid or zinc chloride. It is desirable as soon as it is applied to the surface, immediately start the procedure so that the flux does not take by film.

Tin stainless steel soldering technology

Before the soldering of stainless steel by tin starts, it is necessary to clean from the oxide film, which can be formed on the surface of the metal, as well as other contaminants. This is done with a metal brush or sandpaper.

Then the degreasing procedure is going on, for which it will be necessary for a solvent, for which acetone can be used. When the surface can be cleaned, you can apply flux if you do not use the combined solder, which already contains it in its composition.

Next happens with the help of a burner or sore tag. When using the burner, you need to monitor the level of oxygen, since with its excess metal will be oxidized. To recognize such a parameter, it is necessary to pay attention to the color of the flame, since it will be light blue in the oversaturated composition. It is necessary to warm up all the place of the connection to such a temperature so that the solder could melt.

It should not melt not from the burner, but from the metal hesten. Solder is placed in the area where the joint is located, this is done gradually until the whole area is filled.

This should be done until the surplus start digitage from the gaps, then you can guarantee the best degree of setting. "

Quality control

For this, GOST 19249-73 is used. There may be methods for controlling and without destruction. Among them are distinguished such as:

  • Radiation control;
  • Technical inspection;
  • Radioscopic method;

Security measures

When the Tin stainless steel solder occurs at home, then the electrical safety rules should be followed. The main problem is that it is possible to burn when contact with a soldering iron, heated metal or solder. Also avoid inhalation of metals evaporation.

Under the subtle layer of enamel, either steel or cast iron is hidden. Cast iron pans are harder and cost more. But they are evenly heated, they retain heat longer and more suitable for extinguishing. Steel enameled pots are heated unevenly, so only liquid dishes are better prepare in them. An important nuance! Steel under the influence of high temperatures can be deformed. That this does not happen, choose a pan with thick walls - from 1.5 mm and more.

Carefully inspect the saucepan. Skills should not be. Pens can also be made from enameled steel and welded to a saucepan. And can of steel and wood. You will not negate, but over time the mounts are cleared.

The covers made of glass are convenient because they usually have a hole to exit steam. But taking into account, over time it can rusted, as well as the screw, holding the handle. It is necessary to care for such lids more carefully. After washing, be sure to wipe dry. Finally, enamel color. New, sparkling a white pan poorly absorbs heat. Therefore, choose a dark enamel or dishes with a specially shredded bottom.

Technologies for construction and finishing work

Home Methods for Restoring Enamel Coating

How to restore enamel bath

How to be and what to do if a small piece of enamel coating broke into your bath? Most likely that the wizards are not taken to repair your bath, since too small work and they will take you a little money, and completely update the bath will be expensive!

At home, make the coating similarly to the factory, will not work, because enamel is a faster coating that turns into a vitreous substance at a temperature of 800-900 degrees. Other coatings that are used when updating the enamel layer, represent the paint of increased mechanical strength and water resistance. According to experts, such coatings are not durable: they are destroyed from the effects of cleaning and detergents.

Dissuled or cracked enamel bath can be restored by the following ways:

We clean the damaged surface with sandpaper, after we wash with gasoline and the drying surface. Then, on the fracture, the layer of glue BF-2 is adjusted, adding dryly dried in it. Tassel evenly distribute this mass on the damaged place. After the layer dries down, we repeat this procedure again. You need to repeat this procedure until the thickness of the adhesive is not lifted with the intact enamel surface.

I prepare the paste from the filler and epoxy resin (such a resin is sold in the economic store or on the market) in proportions 1: 2. The paste is well mixed and leave for a couple of days to give homogeneity. A wounded area of \u200b\u200bthe bath at first dry after degreased acetone or gasoline. The paste is mixed with a hardener (it is issued complete with epoxy resin), the resulting mixture is applied to the place where there are damage. Align the surface is needed using a blade. The mixture fully solids after 6-10 days, to use the bathroom all this time is prohibited. The service life of such a patch from 3 to 8 years.

Highly spoiled bath will help update the White Nitroemal and Glue "Supercement". To mix this mass is needed in the same proportions by weight. Before we begin to smear the cracks of the bath need to be deguted with acetone or gasoline. Coating rubbed a thick layer to the surface before aligning it.

Technology recovery enameled coating on baths, sinks and dishes without special equipment

Putclone for enamelled surfaces: Kaolin 225 g, fluttering small ground 60 g, Bura Calked 40g, silica sodium powder Powder 30 g, glass powder 20 g, lime harated 20 g, water 50-125 ml.

After thorough mixing of these substances in a porcelain cup, a homogeneous mass is formed. The cracked enameled surface is purified, degreased and rubbed with putty. Drying lasts 48 hours.

The melasing to correct the spoiled places on the enameled dishes is prepared as follows: 13 pieces of casein, 4 parts of hazed lime, 10 parts of sodium soda, 6 parts of sodium silicate, 15 parts of ground quartz, 5 parts of the pile glass, 50 parts of kaolin.

The putty before use is wetting a little water and stands until the casein connects with alkalis. Then dilute the smelting to the consistency of the liquid test, the places from which should be previously removed by rusting the rank and fat, and leave to dry in the air.

At home, the repair of the bath is most often consigned to the edge of the seats of the enamel of the composition, prepared from epoxy resin with filler. The titanium was used as a filler in powder, talc or dry enamel powder. Approximately every two parts of the resin takes one part of the filler (by volume). The resulting composition after stirring is withstanding about 10 days, after which it becomes more uniform.

The defective area is purified from rust and low fat with gasoline or acetone, is covered with epoxy. The composition is applied no later than 20-30 minutes after mixing it with a hardener in the ratio of 1:10 and smoothed by a razor blade or a spatula.

A complete compound of composition occurs after 7-10 days. Then the inflores are grinding fine-grained skin.

This method is suitable for both partial and full enamels of the bath.

Restore enamel bathroom will help you with super cement and white nitroemal. Mix them equal to the weight of the proportion and rub in the right place the glue with the paint tampon. After a daily drying of the bath, once again apply a solution to the surface. So repeat 4 times.

Approximate glue consumption of 4 tubes (40 g), paint 160 g

Technology restoration of a smooth glossy surface and a homogeneous color coating on toilet bowls, drain tanks, baths and sinks with elimination of microcracks on their enamel

but). The surface of the toilet, sink or bath, which you want to restore, make a smooth, glossy and eliminate the appeared microcracks, need to be carefully flushed and dried.

b). Then deflect the solvent or acetone.

in). Then again dry 2-3 hours.

d). Choose enamel (preferably nitroemal used for color car) of the desired color shade and, gently apply a brush on a dry surface.

Artificial enamel. If enamel broke down on the toilet, sink or bath, it can be restored by using BF-2 glue and dry zinc-levies. Belil is mixed with glue to the state of thick casher.

Enamel restoration.

The damaged place is purified from dirt and rust, wipe dry with a clean cloth, washed with gasoline and dried. Then the prepared mixture is applied with a brush in three or four layers, giving each layer to dry about an hour and a half.

Repair enamel bath

An old bath with nowood enamel can be returned to the previous neat look. Initially, the surface is well degreased with acetone (or solvent No. 646 or 647). Then it is poured in a clean bath a little white nitrocracy and thoroughly rub. So do several times, until the pores in the enamel are filled. Surplus paints remove a tampon, moistened with solvent. The final layer of nitroemali is applied from an aerosol can.

Restoration enamel bathroom

You can restore the enamel of the bathroom in this way: adhesive super cement and white nitroemal mixed in equal in weight of the proportion. The bathroom is well degreed by gasoline, and then tampon dense the glue with paint. Give dry the day and put another layer tampon. So repeat four times. Approximate glue consumption: 4 tubes (40 g), paints 160 g. The coating is obtained by white, smooth and strong enough.

How to remove lime bloom

Heated vinegar can be cleaned the surface of the bath or washing from a lime-plating.

Recipe pills for cleaning and washing dishes, shells, baths, etc.

Take: Bras 1200 g, Wine Acid 400 g, Food Soda 150 g, Lavender oil 1.7 g. Add water and thoroughly mix all the components before getting thick paste, then it is rolled on the table and cut into pieces in the form of tablets.

Soviets Cleells: how to fix the enameled saucepan?

how to fix the enameled saucepan

With such a question, the reader appealed to the editor.

Personally, I prefer stainless steel dishes for cooking. And it is easy to clean, and it looks on the shelves perfectly, and the durable - the great-grandmothers will remain, and already on repair, then it can not remember it. True costs more than enamelled. However, if the reader had a need to repair, "we will take it.

Immediately define: those pots, thoroughly rusted with large areas, it is better to pass in scrap metal. If an internal (black) enamel layer has noticed, you don't need to do anything - somewhat ugly, but the saucepan is still quite working. Do not give in to advertising various canopy with supposedly enamel! This is not enamel, but paint, and its solvents after "enameling" for a long time stand out in food, and we need it?

But the favorite saucepans, mises or mugs in which the metal was exposed or a through hole was formed (but not more than a few millimeters). It is quite possible to extend the life of life. The method is old, well known and simple - tin.

All that is needed for this is to find, buy or ask for friends a piece of tin. Note: only tin and without impurities. In no case do not use soldering soldering, as they all contain lead - a poison that is able to accumulate in our body. There is no substitute for tin in the food coating, except for silver or gold.

It will take another "storm" (in the form of a powder), now it can be bought everywhere and, that is convenient, in small bags.

The main tool for repair - the burner on the gas canoe. You can, of course, take advantage of the soldering iron powerful, but in your own experience I know that it is still necessary to work at the time of the mezzani.

First of all, it is necessary to clean the skin from rust all nude metal stains. Particular attention should be paid to the edges - it is better to consider part of the enamel than to leave rust.

The second step is degreasing. At the pure rag, pour out the calcined soda, drip water to slightly moisten the entire layer of powder. And with this powder, wipe several times the place of future tinning and zone around. In no case are not attempting to check the quality of stripping and degreasing with your fingers, because in this case the tin will not take. In general, all operations - from stripping before washing after degreasing under the jet of water and wipes dry - it is necessary to do in rubber "surgical" gloves. And you will be double advantage: the hands will not get a caustic substance, and the place of repair will become clean and completely ready for the meadow.

Now you can browse. On the prepared surface, pour the powder of the drill powder with a thin layer. Next, warm the place of repair with circles, starting with the periphery (at the edges) and leading fire to the center. Watch: When the storm starts to melt and smoke will go from it, it means that the place was warmed to the desired temperature. Take a piece of tin and put on the scene of the mud. Continue to warm until the tin is dissolved throughout the plane. Carefully inspect the work, you can even with the help of magnifying glass to reveal the plots, did not heal. If you have any, repeat all operations first - and you will succeed.

Make yourself (light) 1996-04, page 81

water) acetone 25% aqueous solution of caustic soda.

Polished furniture, as well as mirrors, lampshades, window glass easily electrified, attracting dust. To get rid of it, wipe the surface of the shampoo, any antistatic and water taken in the 4: 1 ratio (by volume).

When repairing and manufacturing furniture, wood usually have to give one or another color (usually with the help of a morone), after which the painted surface is covered with varnish.

Before sea, the surface is grinding a fine-grained skin, removing woody dust with a brush. The transverse spoke before the sea is slightly wetted. The veil is applied with a tassel without a metal ring. If necessary, the processing of the veneer is repeated, making it so far the surface is wet.

The dried painted surface is covered with a polish or varnish, which are applied with a tassel or rolled by a linen cloth, into which wool or foam rubber wrap.

When the coating is dry, the surface is spacened with fine-grained emery paper and two or three times are covered with varnish.

And so that the latter covers the surface with a smooth and thin layer, warm it in dishes with hot water (dishes be sure to remove from the fire).

For saucepans

If an enameled saucepan was tested, then it was completely simple to repair it. A hole is easy to pour tin, but for this you have to ride some square around the hole from the enamel around the hole, well cleaned

lotted edges with emery paper, degrease them with any solvent (acetone, turpentine, solvent 646 or 649, etc.) and pour. But! The biggest minus of this method is the need for the enamel around the hole and the impossibility of complete, I would say 100%, the mud of the metal surface around the hole. All the same remains the inclined tin edge, where the intensive corrosion of the metal will go further.

With smaller losses, and without a soldering iron (though, the latter is not in every house and not everyone knows how to use it, and not always at hand there are necessary for soldering Tin, rosin, ammonia, etching salt acid) a saucement can be repaired, so to speak In a dry way, rugging the hole of the aluminum wire of a suitable diameter.

If this is not rushing and neat, then you can form a rivet head in such a way that it closes the surface of the surface around the opening. Unaled dishes this way to repair is completely simple not even craftsman.

Many owners have a problem: how and what to clean aluminum dishes?

First of all, let's say that in air aluminum is covered with a very durable film of Oxide Al 2 0 3. which protects the metal from further oxidation. But still aluminum pots are better to use only for the preparation of nonclass and unsalted dishes (potatoes, various porridge, pasta). If you are welded in an aluminum saucepan with acidic or solo food, what to do is also not rebeling, then it is then shifted into an enameled, glass or faience dishes. Acting in this way, you save the film that began to collapse (in the future, the film is restored under the influence of air and water oxygen). For the same reason in

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    We repair the dishes

    Women's magazine »Recipes» The role of dishes in the formation of appetite

    The topic of repair of old dishes is relevant not only for a poor citizens who cannot afford to buy a new bucket or a saucepan. She can interest and masters for all hands. Methods for restoring damaged surfaces of enamelled products. It is better and more reliable to perform professionally in the plant. But if you have a desire to do it yourself at home - please try.

    The easiest way is the damage to the metal surface of special enamel paints (glazers). They are applied to cast iron and steel products, such as gas stoves, refrigerators, sinks, baths, in the end, on the dishes. To restore damaged enamel surfaces of economic and kitchenware used at room or high temperatures (up to 300-350 degrees), use the white enamel. Before repair, read the instructions carefully. Damaged metal surface. Slide with sandpaper, degrease with acetone or gasoline. Then apply enamel in accordance with the instructions.

    Repair of enameled dishes

    Make small repairs of a damaged enamel surface that will not be in contact with food products, you can also enamel paint produced in aerosol cans, for example, "nitroemal", "enamel for baths", "Enamen white". A damaged metal surface must be cleaned, degreased, dried, and then spray the rod paints from the cylinder, be sure to hold the recommendations.

    The second way is more interesting and more reliable, but more time-consuming. To do this, you need to have such components (in mass shares): casein - 12, glass sodium liquid - 6, borax - 10, quartz flour - 14, powder gripped glass - 5. All components need to mix well, add water and bring the mass to the tough status. A damaged metal surface must first be well cleaned from dirt, degrease, dry, and then apply the cooked mass on it, to dissolve and give dry. The renovated surface will be waterproof and suitable for use even in high temperature conditions.

    A good way to repair the dishes is soldering, however, it is necessary to take into account that if you are using a lead-tin solder, a saucepan will no longer be food. Learn more about how to pour a saucepan enameled saucepan at home, watch the video.

    You can repair the food dishes at home and so. To do this, have: Electric soldering iron, solder for connecting metal parts, soldering acid or flux. However, remember that only pure tin, the melting point of which is 232 degrees, can be used for the soldering of the internal cracks of the food dishes.

    If you do a soldering for the first time, then before you start work, you need to lose the soldering iron. Clean its working end with a file or emery paper and heat. Then quickly spend them in rosin. After that, a heated soldering iron separate a small part of the solder, which will have a view of the droplet. Try the circular movements to achieve a uniform spread of tin on the surface of the soldering iron so that its end from two sides is covered with a thin layer of tin. If it failed, it means that you have not read it poorly. Try again.

    Before starting the soldering, the damaged metal surface must be well cleaned with fats, rust, oxides using a file or sandpaper. Then peeled and heated by a soldering iron. Lubricate with a flux with a brush or a wooden stick. When soldering the food dishes on the cleaned surface, it is better to apply rosin. Flux when soldering protects the metal from oxidation and creates conditions for better and more uniform spread of the solder in the crack, which must be sought.

    Next, apply a soldering iron to a tinsel of tin and thoroughly lay the treated surface, leading it to the end-back. After the droplet of the solder (tin) will spread over the surface, the heated soldering iron apply another droplet of tin and speak again.

    Melted solder will push the flux (rosin) from the crack and will take its place.

    Please note: if an oxidative film of blue appeared on a tiny surface of the soldering iron, it means that it overheated. Cool the soldering iron and repeat the login again. After cooling the sealed dishes, rinse it with water and wipe with a rag.

    If in a saucepan or a bucket, from which the enamel was fighting, a hole was also formed, it can be sealed with a metal plate (patch), the size of which should be larger than 5-10 mm. Its edges read out with a fairytale with a spray with a soldering iron and apply a thin layer of tin. Then clean the metal patch and treat the rosin. Attach it to the hole and on top along the edges slowly spend a hot soldering iron.

    It is possible to glue the metal boost to the hole and with the help of glue brands BF-2, BF-4, but it is not recommended for gluing food dishes, since they are made on the basis of an alcohol solution of phenol formaldehyde resin.

    For gluing metal surfaces, the glue brand BF-2 is considered the best. In addition to the metal, they can be glued metal to plastics, wood, glass. The surface of the product should be carefully cleansed from dirt, dust, rust and fat sandpaper, then process acetone or gasoline, then glue. The glue should be applied with a thin layer using a brush. After applying, it should dry 40-60 minutes. Then you need to apply the second layer of glue and give to dry, so as not to stick to the fingers of the hands. Then to the hole to attach a plate and press. Then they glued the saucepan, bucket, another product warmly for an hour in the oven, furnace or on electric tiles.

    Epoxy adhesives can also be used to glue the metal products, which include (in mass fractions): epoxy resin (100), plasticizer Dibutyl phthalate (10-40), quartz flour or aluminum oxide (10) and the hardener (8-10).

    Enamel restoration ...

    Their disadvantage - glued parts need to be heated at a temperature of 180-200 degrees 2-3 hours to harden glue. If this temperature is impossible to achieve, then the product glued with epoxy glue can be heated at a temperature of 120-150 degrees. Holding glue will occur for 16-24 hours.

    Today, household chemical stores contain many types of adhesives. Universal are considered "moment", "Stele", "Second 505", "Supercement". But before you buy, do not forget to read the instructions carefully.

    Eliminate a hole in the household dishes that you feel sorry to handle in scrap metal, can also be in this way. To do this, you need a hammer, well-planned on the handle, because it only ruins to spoil the work, and it is also dangerous to use it. As well as a locksmiths, chisel, anvil, a thick metal plate or rack, pliers, vice for clamping parts when processing, nippers, to eat thick (aluminum or copper) wire, if there is no handwheel for metal or chisel.

    From aluminum or copper wire prepare a rivet. To do this, a piece of wires are chopped into vice, and with their absence - pliers, and a slight hammer blows along the edges of the wire, make her "hat" like a nail. Print the wire into the hole of the product, which is repaid, and lightly knock the hammer along the edges of the wire from the opposite side until the rivet closes the hole in the product. Wash the dishes and wipe the pure cloth.

    Repair your saucepans and buckets, but remember that only materials harmless to health can be used as food dishes.

    Discussions on the forum :

    What can be squeezed on the enameled dishes?

    Every day we use milk, juices, we use various vinegar in preparation and do not even think about what all this is possible food enamel For storing food and alcohol-containing products. In this area, special requirements are presented to edible paints, because they are in contact directly with food. So, there is a double task on them: not only to prevent corrosion of the base metal, but also prevent the release of harmful substances in food, beverages, wine.

    In fact, the food industry is replete with corrosive aggressive agents. These are various acids, such as lemon, dairy, apple and wine, alcohol-containing products, oils and fats. It should be remembered that most of the food acids are strong electrolytes, and this means the occurrence of electrolytic corrosion, which can lead to through rust on welded joints. Food paints used to cover the internal surfaces of concrete and steel tanks, distillation and distillation columns, and other food devices withstand quite high temperatures, while maintaining their protective properties. Enamels for storing food and alcohol-containing products have high resistance to detergents, fresh and salted water. These properties are achieved due to the low content of volatile substances in the coating. Also, these paints and varnish materials can be used in everyday life, while not only in the kitchen, where each of us has an enameled pan. They will be useful in any farm. Food enamels can be covered with a tired bath, cover the ceiling and walls in pools or baths. The list of their applications is practically not limited. In addition, they have a large service life subject to the rules of use.

    There is nothing permanent in our volatile world. Humanity can open new sources of energy and forget about oil, to invent nano fabrics and forget about the textile industry, but the only thing in what a person will always need food. So I. food paints, Enamels for storing food and alcohol-containing products (such as B-EP-5297, or Food XC-010 complex, XC-558, HC-76) as an integral part of the power industry will always be in demand in the market. In order for a person to enjoy the taste of products, juices, wines, beers and other drinks without the taste of rust and chemical additives.

    When the favorite pan "gives to flow," it can be returned to life, shoven the hole. In the same way, you can extend the service time of any metal kitchen utensils (kettle, water bucket).

    Hole in a saucepan: how to secure

    To eliminate the hole in the favorite pan with the soldering, we will need:

    1. Prepare Patchwork Material (Copper Plate)
    2. Clean surfaces (sandpaper / file)
    3. Degreased and soldering (gasoline / acetone / solder / flux / soldering acid / soldering iron)

    And now about all this in order.

    1. Preparation for work

    In the case of a small hole in a saucepan, you will need quite a bit aluminum wire and tin solder. The holes latch more with the imposition of a copper patch on the projected area of \u200b\u200bthe dishes. This is the main secret of how to repair the enameled saucepan. For soldering using a copper plate, a cut-out patch should be slightly exceeding the paws in a saucepan.

    2. Stripping surfaces

    When all the necessary tools and consumables are prepared, you can proceed to stripping surfaces. To do this, use:

    • fellow
    • file
    • emery paper

    Surfaces should be cleaned from plaque, rust, scale, corrosion, etc. If the soldering is performed with a copper patch - platinum is cleaned up to the brilliance.

    3. Degreasing surfaces

    The next step must be treated with solvent, gasoline, acetone, and after a flux (which will remove all the remaining pollution and oxide films). If the flux is not, it is reasonable to replace it with "soldering acid" / "soldering fluid", which is freely sold in any specialized store.

    4. Web

    The soldering iron warms up and falls down in the rosin or ammonia, for cleaning oxide films. With the appearance of light haze, know the soldering iron is ready for work!

    The tool is touched by the fact that the sorry of the soldering iron does not cover the characteristic film.

    We repair the dishes

    Capturing a little solder, we transfer it to the place of the spike, spread the holes on the edges in a saucepan (from the external and inner side). Thus, we climbed the places of the future spike.

    In the same way, slices of solder are gradually transferred to the hole, which close the hole in the saucepan. Small lumens can be filled with whole.

    In the case of the laying of the plate (in order to repair the enameled pan), the nearby surface of the hole is repaired, and the copper plate is put on top of the solder. To carry out better fastening of metals, the plate must also warm the soldering iron. It is important to ensure that the surfaces of the patchwork and pots come into contact as tight as possible. The emerged lumens are filled with the solder.

    5. Preparation for use

    After the solder cools and the pan will be cashed, the surface of the margins can be cleaned with the same sandpaper to give the spike place a more accurate look.

    Additions and notes

    When soldering aluminum pots come somewhat differently. After stripping the surfaces, they immediately float prepared in advance by the melt of the rosin.

    This will avoid the formation of oxide films that appear on aluminum products in seconds.

    In addition, to spare an aluminum pan, you will need a more powerful soldering iron (minimum 100 watts). The mixture is necessary as a solder:

    • 80-95% tin
    • 5-20% bismuth

    How flux need to apply stearin / paraffin.

    In general, both in general, sowing a hole in an aluminum saucepan (repair the enameled pan) only more complicated than in copper or metallic. Show patience and excerpt, and the desired result will not make yourself wait. The award will be a renovated pan, which for many years can be used for appointment instead of going to the landfill and metropolitan item!

    There is no doubt that enameled dishes is one of the most eco-friendly kitchen utensils. In addition, it is inexpensive, very comfortable and beautiful. It is good to cook and store food. The coating prevents the reaction of ferrous metals to 100% used as the basis, with alkalis and acids, which have products.

    Enamel repair on the dishes - is it possible to pour a saucepan

    In addition, harmful bacteria are not delayed on the enamelled surface. This is one of the few reasons why housewives seek to buy a set of pan with a similar coating.

    The process of production in itself, on which enamelled pans are made, quite complicated. It is a set of stages, from stamping a metal base, to the coating of the vitreous composition. The composition itself is an opaque, liquid-shaped consistency made of crushed glass. In the process of heat treatment, it melts, and the cooled turns into a durable coating, protecting products and food from the contact with the metal.

    At the production of enamel is applied to the surface of the base by means of a sprayer. At the same time, the dishes itself rotates on a special table. This is necessary for uniform application of the vitreous composition. Upon completion of application, all the dishes go to the furnace, where under the influence of high temperature the composition melting, hardens and acquires its final transparent-colored structure. Production of dishes with painting takes place in several stages. Applying the first coating layer and its firing. Application directly pattern. Repeated coating on top of the enamel pattern, followed by firing.

    However, those who solved the pots to buy covered enamel, noticed that the coating is rather fragile. It is afraid of tapping and strong blows. And this means that it is necessary to treat the dishes pretty carefully and neatly, in order not to provoke the appearance of chips, cracks and scratches. Few of the owners draws attention to the emergence of such defects. Many continue to cook food in dishes with bare black metal. And this is a direct way to hit harmful connections into dishes.

    The reason for this relationship lies in excessive economic activity of our women and ignorance. Many becomes very sorry to throw out a beautiful saucepan. After all, money was not paid.

    So they continue to cook. Those who are more aware of the dangers of metal contact with food are trying to restore enamel in various available ways. But this is the wrong approach, since it is not able to restore all the original properties of the coating.

    Other materials on the topic of little things ...

    The topic of repair of old dishes is relevant not only for a poor citizens who cannot afford to buy a new bucket or a saucepan. She can interest and masters for all hands. Methods for restoring damaged surfaces of enamelled products. It is better and more reliable to perform professionally in the plant. But if you have a desire to do it yourself at home - please try.

    The easiest way is the damage to the metal surface of special enamel paints (glazers). They are applied to cast iron and steel products, such as gas stoves, refrigerators, sinks, baths, in the end, on the dishes. To restore damaged enamel surfaces of economic and kitchenware used at room or high temperatures (up to 300-350 degrees), use the white enamel. Before repair, read the instructions carefully. Damaged metal surface. Slide with sandpaper, degrease with acetone or gasoline. Then apply enamel in accordance with the instructions.

    Repair of enameled dishes

    Make small repairs of a damaged enamel surface that will not be in contact with food products, you can also enamel paint produced in aerosol cans, for example, "nitroemal", "enamel for baths", "Enamen white". A damaged metal surface must be cleaned, degreased, dried, and then spray the rod paints from the cylinder, be sure to hold the recommendations.

    The second way is more interesting and more reliable, but more time-consuming. To do this, you need to have such components (in mass shares): casein - 12, glass sodium liquid - 6, borax - 10, quartz flour - 14, powder gripped glass - 5. All components need to mix well, add water and bring the mass to the tough status. A damaged metal surface must first be well cleaned from dirt, degrease, dry, and then apply the cooked mass on it, to dissolve and give dry. The renovated surface will be waterproof and suitable for use even in high temperature conditions.

    A good way to repair the dishes is soldering, however, it is necessary to take into account that if you are using a lead-tin solder, a saucepan will no longer be food.

    You can repair the food dishes at home and so. To do this, have: Electric soldering iron, solder for connecting metal parts, soldering acid or flux. However, remember that only pure tin, the melting point of which is 232 degrees, can be used for the soldering of the internal cracks of the food dishes.

    If you do a soldering for the first time, then before you start work, you need to lose the soldering iron. Clean its working end with a file or emery paper and heat. Then quickly spend them in rosin. After that, a heated soldering iron separate a small part of the solder, which will have a view of the droplet. Try the circular movements to achieve a uniform spread of tin on the surface of the soldering iron so that its end from two sides is covered with a thin layer of tin. If it failed, it means that you have not read it poorly. Try again.

    Before starting the soldering, the damaged metal surface must be well cleaned with fats, rust, oxides using a file or sandpaper. Then peeled and heated by a soldering iron. Lubricate with a flux with a brush or a wooden stick. When soldering the food dishes on the cleaned surface, it is better to apply rosin. Flux when soldering protects the metal from oxidation and creates conditions for better and more uniform spread of the solder in the crack, which must be sought.

    Next, apply a soldering iron to a tinsel of tin and thoroughly lay the treated surface, leading it to the end-back. After the droplet of the solder (tin) will spread over the surface, the heated soldering iron apply another droplet of tin and speak again. Melted solder will push the flux (rosin) from the crack and will take its place.

    Please note: if an oxidative film of blue appeared on a tiny surface of the soldering iron, it means that it overheated. Cool the soldering iron and repeat the login again. After cooling the sealed dishes, rinse it with water and wipe with a rag.

    If in a saucepan or a bucket, from which the enamel was fighting, a hole was also formed, it can be sealed with a metal plate (patch), the size of which should be larger than 5-10 mm. Its edges read out with a fairytale with a spray with a soldering iron and apply a thin layer of tin. Then clean the metal patch and treat the rosin. Attach it to the hole and on top along the edges slowly spend a hot soldering iron.

    It is possible to glue the metal boost to the hole and with the help of glue brands BF-2, BF-4, but it is not recommended for gluing food dishes, since they are made on the basis of an alcohol solution of phenol formaldehyde resin.

    For gluing metal surfaces, the glue brand BF-2 is considered the best. In addition to the metal, they can be glued metal to plastics, wood, glass. The surface of the product should be carefully cleansed from dirt, dust, rust and fat sandpaper, then process acetone or gasoline, then glue. The glue should be applied with a thin layer using a brush. After applying, it should dry 40-60 minutes. Then you need to apply the second layer of glue and give to dry, so as not to stick to the fingers of the hands. Then to the hole to attach a plate and press. Then they glued the saucepan, bucket, another product warmly for an hour in the oven, furnace or on electric tiles.

    Epoxy adhesives can also be used to glue the metal products, which include (in mass fractions): epoxy resin (100), plasticizer Dibutyl phthalate (10-40), quartz flour or aluminum oxide (10) and the hardener (8-10). Their disadvantage - glued parts need to be heated at a temperature of 180-200 degrees 2-3 hours to harden glue. If this temperature is impossible to achieve, then the product glued with epoxy glue can be heated at a temperature of 120-150 degrees. Holding glue will occur for 16-24 hours.

    Today, household chemical stores contain many types of adhesives. Universal are considered "moment", "Stele", "Second 505", "Supercement". But before you buy, do not forget to read the instructions carefully.

    Eliminate a hole in the household dishes that you feel sorry to handle in scrap metal, can also be in this way. To do this, you need a hammer, well-planned on the handle, because it only ruins to spoil the work, and it is also dangerous to use it. As well as a locksmiths, chisel, anvil, a thick metal plate or rack, pliers, vice for clamping parts when processing, nippers, to eat thick (aluminum or copper) wire, if there is no handwheel for metal or chisel.

    From aluminum or copper wire prepare a rivet. To do this, a piece of wires are chopped into vice, and with their absence - pliers, and a slight hammer blows along the edges of the wire, make her "hat" like a nail. Print the wire into the hole of the product, which is repaid, and lightly knock the hammer along the edges of the wire from the opposite side until the rivet closes the hole in the product. Wash the dishes and wipe the pure cloth.

    Repair your saucepans and buckets, but remember that only materials harmless to health can be used as food dishes.

    The saucepan was tamed and an opening was formed at her day. Do not hurry to throw it away. Having a soldering iron skill with a saucepan can be repaired.

    Preparatory work

    First of all, the plot of the pan on which the hole was formed, should be carefully cleaned first with the file and then sandpaper. At worst, if there is no file, and the feet will be used. After careful stripping, the surface around the hole must be treated with flux or acid for soldering.

    If the saucepan is not enamelled, and the aluminum, the purified surface will instantly cover the layer of oxide and the soldering will be difficult until it is impossible. Therefore, immediately after stripping, the processed surface should be coated with a layer of molten rosin.

    Ludim

    We turn on and warm up to the operating temperature of the soldering iron (by the way, the power of the soldering iron should be large enough to ensure good warm heating in the place of repair). If the high-power soldering iron was failed to find, the pan can be warm up before soldering over the flame of the gas stove.

    Putting the soldering iron capture a small amount of rosin and we apply it to a thin layer on the surface of the pan around the hole. The resulting film from the rosin will not give the surface of the metal, from which the pan is made, oxidized.

    We recruit a slightly small amount of solder and slowly, in good faith we apply it to the area around the hole. The surface was heard, moving further.

    PAYMA

    Putting the soldering iron prettier warming up the place of the future soldering. Choosing solder in small portions, diligently fill it all the hole on the saucepan.

    If the diameter of the hole in the prudent dishes is more than 3-5 mm, we recommend not to fill it with the solder, but to impose a patch from the copper plate a little larger than the hole.

    Copper plate should be cleaned with sandpaper and treat liquid for soldering. Next to the prepared and listed surface of the pan we apply a copper patch and warmly warm the soldering iron the entire surface of the patchwork. From warming up the solder on the surface of the pan melts and securely fix the patch.