The topic of this article is the installation of bimetallic heating radiators. In it, I'm going to tell about what pipes to use for the installation of the radiator, which tools will be needed to replace the battery and how to perform this job. So, on the road.

Why

Why and when is it necessary to install bimetallic radiators?

They are useful only and exclusively in the central heating system of the apartment or (less often) of the private house connected to the heating industry.

The advantages of bimetallic batteries are high heat transfer to the section (on average 180-190 watts) with a significant resistance to hydrostatic pressure (for domestic radiators RFAR monolith - up to 100 atmospheres).

Riffar Monolith is a champion for tensile strength. The radiator is designed for pressure up to 100 atmospheres, and is tested with a pressure of 150 kgf / cm2.

Why do you need high heat transfer - I think it is not necessary to explain, the strength is needed when the heating system is released outside the full-time values.

I will give a couple of examples of such situations:

1. After the end of each heating season, heating tests are carried out on density. The pressure in it rises from the standard 3-7 atmospheres up to 12 or more. At the time of testing, the input valves of the elevator node must overlap, but do not forget about the so-called human factor;

If the valves are not closed, and the discharges are open, the pressure in the heating circuit is equal with pressure in the track - with quite predictable consequences for the low-mechanical strength of aluminum and cast-iron radiators.

1. Fast filling in the circuit or instantaneous circulation stop in it (for example, when the valve cheeks fall), it means a hydrate - a short-term increase in pressure on the front of the coolant stream to 25 to 40 atmospheres.

The consequences of the depressurization of the heating circuit due to the destruction of the heating device are quite predictable. Usually flooded all floors up to the bottom. What happens when flooding hot and dirty water with decoration of apartments and with household appliances (especially connected to the network) - guess it is not difficult.

Than

Materials

What pipes for bimetallic radiators are better to purchase when transferring a battery or change the lining configuration?

Metal.

More specifically?

• Water-gas pipes from black steel or galvanized;

If the black steel tube can be mounted on welded connections, then the galvanized is collected only on threads. The melting point was 1300 - 1400 degrees, the boiling point of zinc - 900c. With electrical or gas welding, the anti-corrosion coating in the seam area will inevitably evaporate, and you will get a conventional steel pipe at a price galvanized.

• Corrugated stainless steel pipes on compression fittings;
• Copper pipes on press fittings or filling fittings under the soldering.

I vote with both hands in the stainless steel. Welding and appropriate skills are far from all. From galvanized scares the time-consuming thread cutting and a large number of threaded compounds, from copper - the transcendant price of the pipes and fittings themselves for their connection.

Note that the maximum working pressure is achievable only at room temperature. When heated to the maximum 95 degrees, the strength of the polypropylene tube on the gap decreases to 7-9 atmospheres.

The regular parameters of the heating system that is fed from the heating main (up to 7 kgf / cm2 at a temperature of 40 - 95c) seems to be stacked in these values. However, in practice, deviations from the staff mode are always possible. In addition to me above examples of situations in which the pressure in the circuit may differ significantly from the standard, and the scenarios are possible with an excess of the maximum temperature specified in the slope.

I will give the most visual example of such a situation. With a large number of complaints on the cold in the apartments, in the peak of the cold, a housing organization in theory must agree with the heating networks (the organization responsible for the delivery of thermal energy from the CHP to consumers) an increase in the diameter of the nozzle of the water jet elevator.

Dismantling, delivery of the nozzle to the superior organization, its boring, return delivery and the installation takes a long time.

Stop the heating circuit in the peak of the cold weather is impossible even for several hours: at least an accessible heating will be dropped and will require a long and painful (cold!) Repair. Ignore complaints of residents of housing can not: this is fraught with recalculation for heating through the court and the loss of part of the financing.

That is why such a step is often made as a temporary measure for a while of several cold weeks of winter:

• Nozzle is extracted from the elevator;
• SUPPLC (jumper with a reverse, through which part of the spent coolant is involved in the repeated cycle of circulation) is muffled with a steel pancake.

As a result, the heating system does not receive a mixture of water from the feeding and reverse thread, but only water from the feed. Which, for a minute, in the peak of frosts comes out of the boiler room with a temperature of 150s and does not evaporate only due to excess pressure.

What happens to polymer pipes designed for the operating temperature in 95s, at 130-150 degrees?

• In the best for the owner of the apartment, their resource will decrease from the planned 30-50 years to several months;

• In the worst, he will get a flooded room and judicial claims from the neighbors on the riser.

With a unauthorized replacement of any engineering communications, the owner of housing is responsible for any accident. Accordingly, the repair of apartments on the lower floors and the purchase of the neighbors of new household appliances will burden his wallet.

What should be the size of the pipes?

The inner diameter must comply with the internal diameter (typically 20 or 25 millimeters typically) with a minimal error. The narrowing of the rising will cause the temperature of the batteries in all neighbors from the bottom and on top.

In addition, it is on a narrowing that the scale of the Oklin or Wooden Cupik (yes, and it was in my practice), it was on the judgment.

Do you need any additional fittings for installation of the radiator?

Usually, the interference of the heating device includes:

• Two passing radiator corks;

Radiators are often equipped with four deaf plugs and two plugs to them. This allows you to use any method of connection - both one-sided and double-sided.

• One deaf plug and one flushing crane. The flushing makes it possible to fight with a radiator (the hose is connected to it, through which water together with the interfering circulation is dropped into the sewer;
• A pair of ball valves or a set of crane and throttle or thermal heads. Shut-off - throttling fittings will help reduce the heat transfer of the heating device in thaw and spring;

The photo is a throttle that allows you to adjust the heating of the heating device.

• A couple of Americans. They provide much easier and quick dismantling compared to the cooling;
• Jumper (cut pipe or long Sign with locknut and two tees). The jumper passes through itself the coolant circulating in the riser when completely or partially closed cranes on the eyeliner. If you cover the faucet, which is opening up, after a short time, offended neighbors will come to you and become aloud by doubt your high moral qualities;

• On the upper floor of the house with the lower bottling (in which the feed and reverse of heating is divorced along the basement, and the risers are connected on the top floor in pairs) - the crane of Maevsky.

Instruments

What tools will require the installation of a bimetallic battery with your own hands with dismantling the old battery?

Here is the typical content of my suitcase:

• Gas key number 2-3 To unscrew the radiator plugs of the old radiator (usually cast-iron), to twist new plugs and, if necessary, for cutting threads;

• Gas key number 1 for unscrewing-spinning of monetary and fittings;
• Plumbing flax for the sealing of threaded connections;

Sealing will be more reliable, if when winding is winding a little quick-drying paint on any organic solvent. The paint will not give a flaron when the heating is turned off and burn when it is turned on.

• Bulgarian with cutting circle of steel or hacksaw metal for cutting pipes (if the radiator installation requires a change in lining configuration);
• A plate with a holder for cutting pipe threads of DU 15 - DU25 (depending on the diameter of the riser);

• Machine oil (for example, for lubricating sewing machines);
• Rough Female Metal.

how

How to properly make the dismantling of old cast iron batteries and the installation of bimetallic heating radiators?

Simply

Let's start with the most simple scenario: eyeliner and shock fittings do not need to be replaced, new batteries are put on old Signs.

Here are the order of our actions:

1. Resetting the riser (in the system with lower bottling - a couple of risers) heating. You can find your risers in the basement, focusing on the staircase marches at the entrance to the entrance;

1. Unscrewing and driving on the treadmill treads on the eyelbs;
2. Clean the thread from the old winding;

1. Unscrew and drive through the threads passing radiator plugs;
2. Remove the radiator from the brackets;

Keep the pelvis at the ready. The battery will certainly stay a little water and a lot of snacks.

1. We unscrew and remove the old radiator tubes from the eyeliner. They are not suitable for threads to bimetallic batteries (32 mm vs. 25);
2. We retard new passing plugs on the eyeliner;
3. Screw in the radiator a deaf cork and a washing, pre-pressing external threads;

Often, radiator plugs are supplied with rubber or silicone gaskets. In order not to deposit such a gasket when screwing the plug, apply a little liquid soap to the end of the extreme section.

1. Put the battery on the brackets;

Sometimes they have to replace them. Cut the old brackets easier than the grinder. New screwed into the plastic dowel inserted into the pre-drilled hole.

1. We screw into it the passing plugs fit or equipped with gaskets;
2. Complete and tighten the lock nuts. That's all. You can execute a trial running.

Complicated

How to install a new radiator with a alteration of eyeliner?

The key difference from the scenario described above is the need for manual cutting threads.

This is done like this:

1. Removed riser cuts;

1. At the end of the cut tube, the chamroom is removed with a flack or a grinder at an angle of about 20-30 degrees to its axis. The chamfer is needed as an approach for a dice;
2. The pipe is lubricated. Lubrication will avoid scaling and reduce the effort required for cutting thread;
3. The dice is powered by the long end of the holder on the pipe and presses to it with the highest possible effort, simultaneously rotating clockwise. After the first thread thread is sliced, the cry can not be pressed;

Hold the riser with a pipe key. When cutting threads, it is possible to break the tightness of the radiator connection with a liner in the apartment above or below yours, and even take off the eyeliner.

1. For installation of fitting (corner or tee), five thread threads are cut.

Installation technology of liner is determined by the type of pipes:

• The corrugated stainless steel pipe is inserted into the fitting with a weakened by a cape nut, after which it is delayed;
• The copper tube and the inner surface of the fitting are grouped, processed by flux and warm up with a gas burner or a construction hairdryer. Then in the flame of the burner or in the stream of hot air introduced the rod of solder, which, melting, due to the capillary effect, fills the gap between the pipe and the fitting;
• Threaded fittings on galvanized or black steel pipe are assembled on plumbing flax with impregnation paint.

Conclusion

As you can see, the replacement of the batteries is not of great difficulty and is quite accessible even for a beginner in the area of \u200b\u200bsanitary work. Learn more about it will help you video in this article. Waiting for your comments. Successes, Camrads!

The bimetallic radiator is not a complex and convenient system in the field of recent developments in heating. Its design is at the same time high-tech and quite primitive, and the assembly feature contributes to the achievement of the maximum effect in increasing the room temperature.

The use of two different metals in the design of a bimetallic radiator, namely, steel and aluminum, allowed us to combine all the positive qualities of both. All these achievements in the aggregate provided bimetallic radiators high demand and popularity.

Those who are still in thought or doubt about these facilities, for greater persuasiveness, the following is the analysis of their advantages and disadvantages. If they compare and compare them, then you can come to some kind of conclusion and finally cease to doubt about the feasibility of choice in favor of the bimetallic radiator.

List of positive qualities of bimetallic radiators.

• Max life in the heat transfer. This factor is due to the use of an aluminum shell radiator. Aluminum, as you know, an excellent heat conductor.
• Resistance to corrosion processes and components of the coolant. The anti-corrosion effect is achieved due to the inner steel shell of the radiator. Steel is little susceptible to the effects of chemical components.
• Good strength properties and as a result, the ability to withstand a large working pressure. All this has become achievable due to the use of steel, and it as metal can withstand large mechanical loads.
• Small dimensions and light design. Compactness and weight make bimetallic radiators aesthetic, comfortable in montage and transportation.
• Unlimited sectionality. The possibility of sectional disassembly, assembly of bimetallic radiators, allows you to vary the power of thermal returns in any required limits.
• Attractive designer type of radiators. Non-relative instruments of heating aesthetics, in the case of bimetallic radiators, is reflected as anywhere and never. In terms of interior of the room, such radiators do not spoil it, but even complement.

As we see, there are quite a lot of advantages for a relatively simple device, and they are all important for operation. Then followed to go to the cons, but they are no matter how. More precisely, there is a minus, but only he is one and the essence of him in the high cost of bimetallic radiators. Yes, they are more expensive than their analogues manufactured by other technologies and from other metals, but the indisputable advantage of the advantages of bimetallic radiators, probably worth it.

Quality and durability laid by manufacturers in bimetallic radiators have already rated millions of consumers, and this fact reduces all doubts of incredulous to not. Do not doubt, and try and you heat your home with new bimetallic technologies.

The first heating radiators produced from two metals (bimetallic) appeared in European countries over sixty years ago. Such radiators completely coped with the assigned function of maintaining a comfortable temperature in the cold season. Currently, the production of bimetallic radiators resumed in Russia, in the European market, in turn, various radiators made of aluminum alloy prevail.

Bimetallic radiators are Frame from steel or copper hollow pipes (horizontal and vertical), inside of which coolant circulates. Aluminum radiator plates are attached on the pipes outside. They are attached by the method of point welding or method of special casting under pressure. Each radiator section is connected to the other steel nipples with heat-resistant (up to two hundred degrees) rubber gaskets.

In Russian urban apartments with centralized heating, the radiators of this type perfectly withstand pressure up to 25 atmospheres (with crimping up to 37 atmospheres) and due to the high heat transfer perform their function much better than its cast-iron predecessors.

Radiator - Photo

Externally distinguish bimetallic and aluminum radiators are quite difficult. You can make sure that you can only compare the weight of these radiators. Bimetallic due to the steel core will be heavier than 60% of its aluminum fellow and you make a purchase unmistakably.

Video - Bimetallic radiator

Positive aspects of using bimetallic radiators

• Bimetallic panel type radiators fit perfectly into the design of any interior (residential buildings, offices, etc.), without taking a lot of space. The facade side of the radiator can be one or the size and color range of sections are diverse (independent staining is allowed). The lack of sharp corners and too hot panels makes aluminum radiators and become suitable even for children's rooms. In addition, the market presents models that are installed vertically without the use of brackets due to additionally present rigidity.
• The service life of the radiators from alloy of two metals reaches 25 years.
• Bimetal is suitable for all heating systems, including for the central. As is known, poor-quality heat carrier in the municipal heating systems adversely affects radiators, reducing their service life, but the radiators from the bimetal are not afraid of the increased acidity and the poor quality of heat carriers due to the high corrosion resistance of steel.
• Bimetallic radiators - standard of strength and reliability. Even if the system pressure comes to 35-37 atmospheres, it does not hurt the battery.
• High heat transfer is one of the main advantages of the radiators from the bimetal.
• Adjusting the heating temperature using a thermostat is almost lightningly due to a small cross section of the channels in the radiator. The same factor allows twice to reduce the volume of the coolant used.
• Even if it is necessary to repair one of the radiator sections, thanks to the well-thought-out design of the neppels work will take at least time and effort.
• The number of radiator sections required for heating the radiator sections is easy to calculate mathematically. This eliminates extra financial costs when buying, installing and operating radiators.

Negative aspects of using bimetallic radiators

• As mentioned above, bimetallic radiators are suitable for exploitation with low-quality coolant, but the latter significantly reduces the service life of the radiator.
• The main minus of the bimetallic battery is a different expansion coefficient in aluminum alloy and steel. After long-term operation, creak and reduction of the strength and durability of the radiator may occur.
• When operating radiators with poor-quality coolant, it is possible to quickly clog the steel tubes, the occurrence of corrosion, a decrease in the level of heat transfer.
• The challenge of the flaw can be attributed to the cost of radiators from the bimetal. It is higher than that of radiators from cast iron, steel and aluminum, but considering all the advantages, the price fully justifies itself.

How to calculate the number of radiator sections

Thanks to a simple mathematical formula, you can make calculation and find out how many radiator sections are necessary for heating the room.

Before calculations, it is required to find out the area of \u200b\u200bthe heated room and the radiator power. The second magnitude is indicated on packages with a product or provide in price lists producers of radiators.

So, to find out the number of radiator sections (A), the area of \u200b\u200bthe room (S) is multiplied by 100 and divided into radiator power (P).

A. = S.× 100 ÷P.

With a room of 20 square meters and a radiator power of 180 watts, we get:

A \u003d 20 × 100 ÷ 180

Accordingly, the number of sections can be taken 11 or 12. But, since radiators with the number of sections exceeding 10 are heated less efficiently, it is better to install two or three radiators with a smaller number of sections.

Installation (installation) of bimetallic heating radiators

The design of the heating system includes pipes and a radiator directly. The connection of the radiator and pipes produce point welding. Installation is made by plumbing or other qualified specialists in a short time without serious destruction of wall partitions. An independent installation is possible in the presence of the necessary tools, devices and ideas about the procedure for the work. The installation instruction from the manufacturer usually comes complete with bimetallic radiators.

As practice shows, with bimetallic radiators, polypropylene tubes (reinforced with fiberglass or aluminum) are most successfully combined. When using pipes with deep liabilities of aluminum reinforcement, the use of the shader and the process of stripping becomes unnecessary. This significantly reduces the timing of the radiators. Levelly popular pipes for connecting radiators from bimetal due to frequently appearing leaks and blockages are iron (steel) and metal-plastic pipes in combination with collet clamps.

The installation of bimetallic heating radiators is made to the place of dismantled old after the preparation of the working area, which includes disassembling pipelines from the riser, markup of the place of installation of a new radiator and driving holes for brackets.

- The distance from the radiator nose to the floor level is taken in the range of 60-120 mm. If the radiator is set above or below the specified height, the heat exchange rate is reduced. At the same time, about 20 mm left from the back of the radiator to the wall, and from the top of the radiator to the windowsill should be at least 50 mm to improve convection and convenience of installation.

- Traditionally, radiators are mounted strictly horizontally under the window, in the center. At the same time, if there are already radiators in the room, their level should strictly correspond.

After marking (using building levels), holes for the brackets drill on the wall and fix the last dowel-nails and cement mortar. Brackets must be located so that the hooks are freely passed between horizontal collectors. In this case, the radiator housing will be securely fixed on the wall.

Before installation, the bimetallic radiator is equipped with everything necessary: \u200b\u200bMaevsky's crane (to remove from air surplus system) from above, adapters and futsors at the junction of the radiator with pipes.

Radiators connecting schemes

— Traditional one-sided circuit or lateral connection. With this embodiment, the pipe feeding into the radiator coolant is connected to the nozzle located on top of the radiator. Accordingly, the discharge tube is mounted to the lower nozzle of the radiator. Heat loss with this method of connecting no more than two percent.

— Lower scheme. It is practiced when the heating system is hidden or mounted into the flooring. The pipes of the removal and supply of the coolant are connected from the opposite sides of the radiator to the lower nozzles. Heatlopotieri reach 12%.

— Diagonal scheme Suitable for radiators with a large number of sections. The pipe supply pipe is connected to the upper nozzle, and the discharge pipe is connected on the other side, below.

After connecting the system is filled with the coolant. For this, the stabilizing crane is closed on 2/3 to prevent hydraulic impact.

Bimetallic radiators with decorative coating (two layers of heat-resistant paint) cannot be cleaned with abrasive materials and powders. Color is recommended not more often than ten years. At the same time, paint the thermostat is strictly prohibited.

Video - dismantling of the old radiator and the installation of bimetallic

Bimetallic radiators, what better

Bimetallic radiators on the Russian market are fully certified, but they differ not only by the company and the country by the manufacturer, there are small, but very important nuances to which you should pay attention to when buying.

Price is one of the most important aspects that consumers pay attention. But before you judge the quality of the goods at its price, it should be sorted out, which makes the cost of the radiator.

The most inexpensive radiators from Bimetal Presented by manufacturers from China and Russia. The price of one section does not exceed four hundred rubles. Low cost is due to a simplified design, material savings in the production of goods. The working pressure of such radiators is slightly lower than the analogues produced by other countries, and the appearance is not perfect.

If compared bimetallic radiators from the price category from 400 to 600 rubles For each section, we will meet two manufacturers from Italy (Global, Sira) and another brand from Russia - Rifar. The radiators of these firms look more aesthetically and attractive with the coating of snow-white or cream shades. Some models are equipped with an air vent or thermostat. Different methods of installation and some production nuances (intercentrose distance, equipment, etc.), irrelevant affecting performance (power) and reliability of radiators. But all of them managed to establish themselves from the positive side of satisfied consumers.

In a special Rifar Monolit series Models of radiators specifically designed for operation at operating pressure up to one hundred atmospheres. If necessary, select a radiator not direct, but a rounded form, you should evaluate the quality and design of the series Rifar Flex. And if your choice fell on radiators with copper core, having increased corrosion resistance, then the models of such heating devices are represented from the company Piligrim..

So I decided to change my old cast iron batteries, on something moreon. My choice stopped on bimetallic radiators, apparently they are the most optimal option in our time, crowding out cast iron and aluminum from the market. Can you combine bimetal and plastic pipes, or better to connect with iron pipes? Please tell me. Alexei

Theoretically, connect the bimetallic radiator with plastic pipes. The material of the pipe and the radiator does not directly contact, the neutral gasket is always located between them. However, is it necessary?

If you have in the apartment or house a layout made with metal pipes, what's the point of switching to plastic? Additional threaded connection and insertion in the pipeline of an element from another material can reduce the reliability of the system, and making serious changes to the pipeline system can be seen by the operating organization with the consequences in the form of a fine and regulation to restore "as it was."

Our advice: Do not be caught, use to connect the heating device pipe from the same material from which the risers are made. Iron - it means iron.

Replacing the heating radiator in an apartment building, it is better to leave the supply pipes unchanged. Do not get carried away and go to another material, it is noticeable to change the configuration or section, it can disrupt the system

By the way, the approval of the vendors of the equipment that the bimetallic radiators are "better than all" and displacing other types of heating devices from the market - more than controversial. In fact, all types of radiators have both advantages and disadvantages, they are often intended for different operating conditions.

Practical and economical Germans prefer to other types of heating devices steel panel radiators. Bimetal, aluminum and cast iron can be found in Germany and neighboring countries. Why is the topic for a separate conversation

The advantages of the bimetallic radiator over cast-iron are non-obvious, with the exception of a more attractive appearance and convenience of wiping dust. Of course, if the old battery is half "thicket" by calcium sediments and no longer warms, any new heating device will be for happiness. But the replacement of the cast-iron battery of the Soviet sample, if it warms it normally, from the point of view of heat engineering, is hardly justified.

First, the heat capacity and the inertia of the cast iron is much higher and it gives a more uniform in time and the distribution of heat. But in our conditions it is unlikely minus. Secondly, domestic batteries "are not afraid of dirt", less sensitive to the quality of the coolant and the presence of mechanical pollution in it. Thirdly, our "accordions" are less, corrosion resistance is higher, and they serve longer. By the way, in Western countries, the advantages of pig-iron radiators appreciate. They only stand there is expensive and the cast-iron battery is not all can afford.

If you abstract from design and cleaning, "CHUGUNYAK" you can show only two claims: low (on average, 25% less in relation to bimetal) heat transfer and slow, due to high inertia, response to automatic regulation. Although, in our standard apartment buildings, the latter can hardly be considered a disadvantage, and so far thermal heads in typical apartments - exotic.

Among the cast iron radiators manufactured by domestic enterprises can be found quite cute. They cost more than the usual, but also heat transfer