The knife out of the saw with your own hands. Knife from the saw disk with your own hands drawings of the knives from the disk saw

My friend and I decided to make knives of the same steel and the same form, but I am doing manually, and it is power tools.

I was wondering how much time I would leave to make a knife in concrete or metal, using only the legs and drill and your hands. The result was very pleased.

Step 1: Template

I tried to make a knife from the circular saw disk as much as possible. First, out of fine cardboard, cut out the template, then we supply it with a thin marker on the disk. If we circle the template with a conventional marker, the thickness of the line when cutting the knife can cause the contour curvature.

Step 2: Rough Blank

Now cut out the knife from the diamond disc, fixed on the desktop, part with the abside knife. If you did not use the metal hacksaw before, remember that it should be placed with teeth from myself and the canvas should be well fixed. The hacksaw cuts directly, so make sure the disc is fixed correctly.

Step 3: We make auxiliary slits

To make it easier to cut a curved outline, make several auxiliary perpendicular slots all over bending, up to the handle. Then the resulting comb cut the metal to the metal, keep it at a small angle.

Step 4: We refine the blank

To bring the workpiece to the desired form, I took a piece of boards 5x10 cm and pressed the workpiece to it. This allows you to quietly process the workpiece with proper, as it is securely fixed. Nadfil is convenient to handle places that require accurate and cautious movements. Obuch has a light bend, it can be checked with a flat side of the Nadfil. If the volatile straight, you will immediately see it.

Step 5: Thin Form

To bring the shape of a knife to drawn, I used several different legs. The billet looks like an almost finished knife, the burrs is almost not visible. If you notice the spaces somewhere, refresh the applied circuit and continue to grind until the knife contour coincides with the pattern. There are no photos of grinding, but I spent it: I started 150 grit from Abraziv, gradually changing up to 220 grit.

Step 6: Drills Holes

We celebrate and drill holes for studs.

Step 7: We celebrate the middle of the blade

Marker notes the length of the blade of the knife from the disk saw. Then take the drill of the same number as the blade thickness and cut to the blade - so you define the average line. Leave scratching the drill along the entire length (the photo is not very clear). This line will very help you to grind the descent, so that the blade does not go wave or did not twist one way.

Step 8: We make a descent on the blade

For the designation of the descent, I used the Raspil - and I realized that I could not do it smoothly manually. I decided to make a smooth extension angle and began to remove the metal from the edge to the edge. Since I have no experience at all, I acted very carefully. When you make a descent under the desired angle, pass the entire workpiece with 220 grit sandpaper.

Step 9: Ready Blade

In the photo, the workpiece with the finished shape and polished, ready for hardening.

Step 10: Hardening Blades

At first I want to say that I do not recommend hardening in the open flame, although many people say that they did it and everything is fine. I think this way is dangerous, so I hardered a knife in my mini-mountain. If you do not have this, you can harden the blank to order. My actions with mini-mountain: At first I spread a fire, then using a hairdryer with a pipe bowed on it, rolled the corners of the hot, and placed a blank in the flame. When she was heated to such an extent that he stopped the magnet, I cooled it in peanut butter. The last photo shows a knife after hardening.

Step 11: Let's release metal

Now you need to let go of the metal. To do this, first clean the knife harvest from the scale layer formed during hardening. Warm oven to 190 ° C, and put a knife blank for one hour. In an hour, turn off the oven and leave cool without opening the door.

As soon as the workpiece cools up to such a temperature that it can be in hand, get a knife harvest. After vacation, the metal acquired a light or light bronze tint. Now grind the workpiece, starting 220 grit from sandpaper and gradually changing abrasiveness up to 400 grit. I grinding the workpiece in one direction - from the handle to the tip, it gave the metal surface to a homogeneous look.

Step 12: Begin to make a handle

Circuit the contour of the workpiece with felt-tip pen on the rail. Squeezing the rail and cutting board of 5x10 cm clamps, I saw off two pieces, 6 mm thick each (although it was possible and not to do, and drink blanks straight from the whole rail). Then I drank two halves of the handle.

Step 13: We refine the handle

Carefully pollute the sides of the wooden parts of the handle that will be glued with the metal. So that half of the handles glued close to the metal, they should be as even as possible, between metal and wood should not be slots and pockets. At the same stage, I finally chose the shape of the handle.

On one part of the rail, we supply the shank of the knife harvesting, then pubesome drinking the harvesting of the handle. We supply this workpiece with a marker on another rail and drink too. So you will have two almost identical half of the handle. On the last photo, fitting the blanks to the knife shank to make sure that the entire shank will be closed by wood.

Step 14: Forming Garda

Now we grind and bring the shape. It is very important to withdraw at this stage Garda (BRSTIR), since then, after gluing half of the handle, it will be very difficult to approach it, damage will definitely remain on the metal. Garda Grind, changing the number of sandpaper to 800 grit, it must be shown to the final finished form before sticking the handle.

Step 15: Hole Drills

Now proceed to drowning holes for the studs. To do this, drill one hole, and insert the drill in it the same number as what drilled. It is necessary that the shank will accidentally move relative to the wooden billet when drilling the second hole. Also drilling holes in the second wooden harvesting of the handle.

Step 16: Making Studs

From the bar of 5 mm of stainless steel, we scream two pieces, let's make studs. Before applying glue, cover the blade with a protective coating (I used the isolent). The surfaces of all glued parts wipe with acetone or alcohol to remove dust and litter, and to degrease them.

Step 17: glue handle

When all the details were dried after cleaning, I mixed with epoxy and generously put it on the wooden parts of the handle and on the hairpins. Then pushing the handle with clamps and leave for a day.

Having made a knife from the saw, you can get a cutting device at your disposal, whose performance is much better than that of factory analogues. By making a knife with your own hands, he gives him exactly the form that most suits the masters. Factory knives are beautiful, but not always reliable. There is no guarantee that they will not let go in the most responsible moment.

A homemade knife from a disc, wood-hacksaws or saws on the metal will serve many years regardless of storage conditions and use. Consider how to make a knife from the metal parts of the factory production, which is necessary for this and what special attention should be paid.

The raw material for the manufacture of a homemade knife can be any new or old cutting detail of tempered steel. It is better to use cutting discs for metal, hand-made and pendulum saws as a workpiece. A good option is the old chainsaw. From its chain you can shoot and pull the blade, according to your quality and appearance, not inferior to the famous Damascus steel.

In order to make a knife with their own hands, such equipment and materials will be required:

bulgarian;
grinder;
electric drill;
line;
a hammer;
sandpaper;
bruks for sharpening;
files;
kern;
epoxy adhesive;
copper wire;
marker;
bucket with water.

Separately, you need to think about the question with the handle. The finished product must be comfortably lying in your hand.

For the manufacture of the handle it is better to use:

non-ferrous metal (copper, bronze, brass, silver);
tree (oak, alder, birch);
organic glass (plexiglass, polycarbonate).

Raw materials for the handle must be whole, without traces of cracks, rot and other defects.

Metal Rules

In order for the blade to be durable and elastic, in the process of its manufacture, it is necessary to comply with the rules for working with the metal. They are as follows:

Billets should not have visible and hidden damage. Before making a knife, the workpiece must be inspected and tapping. One-piece item sounds ringing, and defective deaf.
When designing a blade form, you must avoid corners. In such places, steel can break. All transitions must be smooth, without fuss. Sevets, handles and fuses should be covered at right angles.
When drinking and sharpening, it is impossible to overheat steel. This leads to a decrease in its strength. The superheated blade becomes fragile or soft. During processing, the workpiece must be constantly cooling, completely immersing it in a bucket with cold water.
Making a knife from the canvas of the saw, you need to remember that this product has already passed the hardening cycle. Factory saws are adapted to work with the solid alloys. If you do not overlay the web in the process of pulling and finishing, it does not have to harden.

The shank blade can not be done too thin. It is on this part of the product that the largest load will have.

Making a knife

If the web is large and does not have strong wear, then you can make several clins of different purposes from it. The strengths and time are worth.

The knife from the circular saw is done in such a sequence:

On the canvas applied molds, the contours of the blade are applied. Scratches or point lines are applied on top of the marker. So the drawing will not erase when drinking the workpiece and fit under the desired form.
Billets are cut from the circular saw disk. To do this, it is better to use a brandy with a disc on metal. You should leave 2 mm from the contour. It is necessary in order to remove the material burned down. If there is no grinder at hand, it is possible to sharpen the workpiece with the help of vice, hammer and chisel or hacksaws for metal.
On the grinding machine is all unnecessary. This process will have to spend a lot of time so as not to cross steel. To prevent this, the workpiece must be regularly omitted to the water until completely cooling.
Challenges the blade. Here you need to be attentive to keep the knife contour, do not burn it and withstand angle of 20º.
Align all straight areas. It is convenient to do, applying the workpiece to the lateral part of the sharpening circle. Transitions are given to the rounded form.
The item is cleaned from the burr. Grinding and polishing blade is carried out. To do this, use several replaceable circles on the grinding machine.

Separately should be parted on how the handle is made. If wood is used, then a monolithic fragment is taken, which makes longitudinal cutting and through holes. After that, the dwarf is attached to the blade, it outlines holes for fasteners. Fixing the handle on the blade is made using rivets or bolts with nuts. In the case of a bolted compound, the hts of hardware are cooled in wood and poured with epoxy glue.

When the handle is collected from the plastic, 2 linings are used, which must be symmetrical. To give a knife of originality, plastic linings are painted on the inside. In lining, you can make cavities filled with decorations, products from non-ferrous and precious metals, small compasses and photographs.

After fixing on the blade, the handles are swapped until they purchase the necessary shape and smoothness.

Chain knife from chainsaws

Chains from saws are made of high-quality alloy, which perfectly transfers long-term friction and high temperature. The process of manufacturing a blade is long and time-consuming, but the result is a beautiful, unique and very durable knife. It will take a heavy anvil, mangal and charcoal for work. To make it easier to handle a hot blank, you need to purchase blacksmithing tongs.

The manufacture of a blade from chains from chainsaws should be carried out in such a sequence:

Prepare clothing and mittens from dense fabric and protective mask. Purple charcoal to the hearth and set fire to it with a special fluid.
Fold the workpiece from a solid piece of chains. In the place where the handle is, you can add several segments from the chain. It should be remembered that the result of the work should be a single monolithic product. Separately, the handle is not done to the knife.
Put the workpiece on the corner. Provide air flow to raise the temperature. Wait until steel gets dark red. In such a state, it becomes forging, without losing quality characteristics.
Get a hot chain from the fire and put it on the anvil. Together with a few strong blows to flatten it so that the links welt among themselves, turning into a single monolithic part.
Stepodno, heating the workpiece in the furnace and giving it the necessary shape to her, to shoot a knife, which denotes the handle and blade. After cooling the workpiece to spend it sharpening and polishing.
To harde the product. To do this, it needs to get hot and lower it to cold water. After that, you can spend a knife finish. For this use acid and engraving machine. The finished blade is again polished and ished in a warm soap solution.

With independent manufacture of the blade, you must adhere to certain parameters so that the finished product does not fall under the category of cold weapons.

The handicraft knife from the saw blade of the circular, the hacksaw blade on wood either from the saw saw for many years, regardless of the terms of use and storage. Let's talk about how to make a knife from the steel elements of the factory manufacture, which will require and what needs to be paid attention to. We will also tell me how to make handicrafts for fans of wood thread.

Working tools and materials

The raw material for creating a handicraft can be any, used, or a new cutting component from Kalena Steel. In the role of a semi-finished product, it is desirable to apply sawing circles for metal, on concrete, sawing wheels of the pendulum end and hand saw. A decent material will be used in the use of gasoline saw. From her chain it is possible to turn out and make a blade, which in its properties and outdoor appearance will be no worse than legendary damask blades.

To create a knife from a circular disk with their own hands, the following equipment and materials will be necessary:

angle grinder;
emery machine;
electric drill;
line;
a hammer;
sandpaper;
sharpening lumps;
files;
kerner;
epoxy;
copper wire;
flomaster;
water container.

Additionally, you must think about the question with the handle. The manufactured item must be comfortable in the palm.

To create handles, it is preferable to apply:

colored alloys (silver, brass, bronze, copper);
timber (birch, alder, oak);
plexiglas (polycarbonate, plexiglas).

The material for the handle must be solid, without cracking, rottenness and other flaws.

Metal handling techniques

So that the blade was strong and tight during its creation, it is necessary to adhere to the rules for handling iron.

On the semi-finished product should not have noticeable and unfinished defects. Before starting to work, the workpiece is required to examine and catchy. The holistic element sounds sound, and defective - muffled.
When creating a project and drawing of the configuration of the cutting component, angles are required. In such regions, steel is able to break. All transitions must be made smooth, without steep turns. Skiing of the foothold, fuse and handles need to be dried at an angle of 90 degrees.
When cutting and processing, it is impossible to overheat the metal. This leads to a decrease in strength. The "supplemented" blade becomes fragile or mild. In the process of processing, the part must be composed regularly, its entirely perch of it into the cold water container.
By creating a knife from the saw disk, you must not forget that this element has already passed the hardening procedure. Factory saws are designed to work with very strong alloys. If you do not heat the product over the measure during pulling and processing, then it does not need it.

The tail of the blade does not need to be made overly fine. After all, specifically the main load will be attached to this area of \u200b\u200bthe knife.

Manufacturing of a knife

If the saw blade is not very worn out, then it will be possible to make several blades of various purposes. The efforts spent are worth it.

The knife from the circular circular circular is done in a specific order.

The decreases on the disk, the outlines of the blade are outlined. On top of the marker kerner, scratches are applied or point lines. After that, the picture will not disappear in the process of drinking the part and its adjustments to the desired configuration.
We proceed to drinking the blade. For this purpose, it is necessary to apply a corner car with a disk by iron. It is necessary to cut with a reserve of 2 millimeters from the line. It is necessary that then restorate the material under the cutting machine. If there is no cutting machine at hand, it is possible to cut the draft item via a vice, chisel and hammer or hacksaw for metal.

On the sandpaper is removed all unnecessary. You need to do it carefully and slowly, trying not to cross the metal. That this does not happen, the part must be periodically dipped into water until complete cooling.
Selecting closer to the contour of the future blade, it is necessary to be more careful not to lose the outline of the knife, do not burn it and observe the angle of 20 degrees.
Smooth plots are smoothed. This is handy reinforced, placing the detail to the side of the sandy stone. Transitions are made round.
The billet is cleaned from burrs. Grinding and polishing of the cutting canvas are performed. For this, several different stones are used on the sandpaper.

Hardening blades

Connect the largest robe on the gas stove to the maximum. This is not enough to warm up the blade to 800 degrees Celsius, because in addition, use the soldering lamp. A similar heating demagnetizes the item. Keep in mind that the temperatures of hardening are different for various types of steel.

Following how the item warms up to such an extent that the magnet stops sticking to it, hold it in the heat for another minute to make sure that she warmed exactly. Savit the part into sunflower oil, heated approximately 55 degrees, for 60 seconds.

Write the oil from the blade and place it for one hour in the oven, heated to 275 degrees.The item in the process will become dark, but sandpaper with grain grain 120 will cope with it.

Making a handle

Separately, it is necessary to focus on how the handle is manufactured. If a tree is used, a solid piece is taken, which produces longitudinal rubber and through holes. Then the Bolveshka rises on the blade, it makes the markup of the holes under fasteners. Fixing the handle on the blade is carried out by screws with nuts. In an embodiment, the head of the head of hardware is cooled in the structure of the tree and poured with epoxy.

When the handle is collected from plastics, 2 symmetric plates are used.We form the contour of the handle. Armed with files of various grain, we begin the formation of the contour of the handle. We gradually reduce roughness as you create. In the end, a stacker comes to support for support. Through her handle is completely formed, it must be done completely smooth. At the end, use the sandpaper with graininess 600.

The knife is almost ready. The handle is impregnated (if it is wooden) with linseed oil or similar solutions for ensuring dampness.

Knife sharpening

If you want to get a truly sharp knife, use the water stone to sharpen. As in the embodiment, the grain of the aqueous stone must be gradually donated, bringing the cloth to perfection. Do not forget to constantly water the stone so that it is cleaned of iron dust.

Create homemade carving cutters for wood

Wood cutters are a hand tool used for artistic wood thread, the cost of which is not for everyone to pocket. As a result, many people have a desire to make them independently.

The cutter has in its structure the cutting steel component and a wooden handle. To make a similar knife, the elementary set of tools will be required.

Tools and devices:

emery machine;
cellular machine for cutting blanks;
electrolovik;
circular cutter;
sandpaper.

In addition, the material itself will be needed, in particular - carbon or alloy steel to create a cutting tool.

Source materials:

round wood shelter with a 25 mm section;
steel strip (0,6-0.8 mm thickness);
drills (under the thread);
discs for circular cutter.

The consumator is also an abrasive disc, through which the grinding of the cutter will be made. B \\ Discs from circular will be useful as a key material for creating cutters.

Phased guide to create a cutter on wood

Creation of semi-finished products under the blade for a cutter

Elements under the blade of the cutter are performed from the used circular disk. For this, the markup disk is cut through a corner machine to several rectangular strips of approximately 20x80 millimeters. Each strip is a cutter in the future.

Give the outline to the main cutters

Each cutter needs to be processed to the desired configuration. The process can be implemented with 2 receptions: by sharpening on the machine and forging. Forging is necessary for the formation of a deflection, and the calculation - to form a single configuration of the blade.

Sharpecker

To fulfill the blade sharpening, you need an emery machine with a stone of small grain. The sharpening is carried out under the tilt of approximately 45 degrees, and the length of the pointed part is equal somewhere in 20-35 millimeters, taking into account the total length of the cutter. The blade itself can turn both hands and snap.

Creating a handle for comfortable thread

To use the tool is extremely comfortable, you will need to make a wooden handle. The handle is performed on special equipment either by hand, planing and subsequent grinding via sanding.

The stores present a large number of knives. They have a different design, appointment, are performed using modern technologies. In addition, the materials for production can be not only metal, but also a special stiffness of ceramics. Such knives are very sharp, no longer need sharpening for a long time, but at the same time quite fragile. When the scola is formed, the knife is not possible to restore the former appearance, especially at home.

The blades of the knife must be made of tempered steel, so that it is convenient to use.

For a knife to be nice to work, and at the same time it is convenient to cut, it should be reliably and comfortable in hand. With a comfortable handle, they can be used for a long time. But it is not always possible to find such a knife in the finished form. Then you can do it yourself. At the same time, the peculiarities of the palm, the length and form of the cutting blade are taken into account. Knives should be made of hardened steel. Therefore, self-made knives of saws will fully meet the requirements.

Knife manufacturing options

Homemade knives can be made from a variety of metal parts, which can not be used according to their intended purpose, as they have become unusable.

Among the parts from which you can select several:

worn rods of a motorcycle, from which you can make a set of knives of various lengths;
balllock keys with 1 broken end;
crutches, which are used when laying rails;
circular saw discs of various diameters and thickness;
damaged hacksaw blade of the pendulum saw.

With certain skills in the forging, you can make a knife made of a metal thick cable, chains from a home aggregate. For this, the optimally suited chainsaw. Its chain is strong enough, and the self-made knife is like Damascus knives.

If the circular saw has a large disk diameter, and its damage is minimal, then two homemade knives can work out of it. The discs have a significant strength of the manufacturing metal, since the saw is used for various purposes for a long time.

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Materials and tools

To make a self-made knife, the following equipment will be required:

Woodworking Machine. If it is not, you can use electric jigsaw for pre-drinking handle. For final grinding use sandy paper of different graininess.
Nails or better copper wire for rivets.
Wood.
Machine for grinding and sharpening. In its absence, you can use the grinder, perforator, high power drill. In addition, nozzles or circles are needed, with which you can make these operations. One of these tools should be rigidly fixed, and then perform work.
Files with different types of notches.
Marker.
Brass plate and rod if the handle is not attached to rivets.
Epoxy adhesive.

Knives must have a comfortable handle. For her, the most suitable material is wood. Most often used birch, oak lumps. These breeds are the most solid, less susceptible to moisture with long-term use. They are pleasant to the touch and have a beautiful texture. Since it does not require a large number of source material for the manufacture of a knife handle, then for these purposes you can use 1 parquet board, cutting board or bar. It is important that the wooden billet is damaged, cracked and contained chipping and other defects.

After the blade is shown enough, you need to cool it.

In order to make a knife, it is necessary to use certain steel stamps. It should be remembered that the metal hardening technologically was performed, its characteristics depend. For example, with an increase in hardness increasing the fragility of metal products. For the knife, steel grades R6M5 or P3M3F2 fits. At the same time, the thickness of the metal in 2 mm will be enough.

The strength of the homemade knife does not depend on the thickness of the metal. It is influenced by its geometric dimensions: length, width, blade and descent form. With the right choice of these components and neat metal processing, obtaining an excellent knife is guaranteed. Such stamps are used in the production of discs, cloths, such tools such as, for example, circular saw.

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Hackstone knife

If it is decided to use a canvas from the hacksaw as a metal workpiece, then you need to take a canvas from the pendulum saw. This saw performs the work on the metal of a large thickness (for example, rails) and complies with stiffness and strength requirements. The size of such cloths fluctuates in length / width / thickness, 400-500: 30-40: 2 mm. The color is determined by the type of production processing, which was subjected to saw, and may be black or gray.

Before the origin of the knife blade, it is necessary to check the integrity of the metal. This can be done by rumor, but for this you need a certain experience and skill. The whole canvas makes a ringing sound damaged - deaf. If it is difficult to do this, then it is necessary to inspect the metal workpiece carefully.

Overall, the outline of the future knife is applied to the marker with a marker.

The angle of inclination of the blade should be equal to 20 degrees.

In this case, it should be not only the blade, but also the allowance, which will then be hidden in the handle. After that, on a metalworking machine (or a thoroughly attached grinder with a circle), it is necessary to gradually and gently remove unnecessary.

It is necessary to do it in no hurry, as the metal can be heated. To cool it and continue to work, take a bucket with water. This container must be enough for the workpiece to fit completely into water. The contours of the blade are performed by the same machine. It should be borne in mind that a feature of this steel is that with a sharp change in the metal temperature in it can form the smallest cracks. This can lead to the fact that even with a small effort a knife breaks. Therefore, it is impossible to allow metal overheating during its processing. Especially carefully to perform the edge, because with a decrease in thickness, the metal is heated faster.

In order to make a knife with their own hands, such equipment and materials will be required:

bulgarian;
grinder;
electric drill;
line;
a hammer;
sandpaper;
bruks for sharpening;
files;
kern;
epoxy adhesive;
copper wire;
marker;
bucket with water.

Separately, you need to think about the question with the handle. The finished product must be comfortably lying in your hand.

For the manufacture of the handle it is better to use:

non-ferrous metal (copper, bronze, brass, silver);
tree (oak, alder, birch);
organic glass (plexiglass, polycarbonate).

Raw materials for the handle must be whole, without traces of cracks, rot and other defects.

Metal Rules

In order for the blade to be durable and elastic, in the process of its manufacture, it is necessary to comply with the rules for working with the metal. They are as follows:

Billets should not have visible and hidden damage. Before making a knife, the workpiece must be inspected and tapping. One-piece item sounds ringing, and defective deaf.
When designing a blade form, you must avoid corners. In such places, steel can break. All transitions must be smooth, without fuss. Sevets, handles and fuses should be covered at right angles.
When drinking and sharpening, it is impossible to overheat steel. This leads to a decrease in its strength. The superheated blade becomes fragile or soft. During processing, the workpiece must be constantly cooling, completely immersing it in a bucket with cold water.
Making a knife from the canvas of the saw, you need to remember that this product has already passed the hardening cycle. Factory saws are adapted to work with the solid alloys. If you do not overlay the web in the process of pulling and finishing, it does not have to harden.

The shank blade can not be done too thin. It is on this part of the product that the largest load will have.

Making a knife

If the web is large and does not have strong wear, then you can make several clins of different purposes from it. The strengths and time are worth.

The knife from the circular saw is done in such a sequence:

On the canvas applied molds, the contours of the blade are applied. Scratches or point lines are applied on top of the marker. So the drawing will not erase when drinking the workpiece and fit under the desired form.
Billets are cut from the circular saw disk. To do this, it is better to use a brandy with a disc on metal. You should leave 2 mm from the contour. It is necessary in order to remove the material burned down. If there is no grinder at hand, it is possible to sharpen the workpiece with the help of vice, hammer and chisel or hacksaws for metal.
On the grinding machine is all unnecessary. This process will have to spend a lot of time so as not to cross steel. To prevent this, the workpiece must be regularly omitted to the water until completely cooling.
Challenges the blade. Here you need to be attentive to keep the knife contour, do not burn it and withstand angle of 20º.
Align all straight areas. It is convenient to do, applying the workpiece to the lateral part of the sharpening circle. Transitions are given to the rounded form.
The item is cleaned from the burr. Grinding and polishing blade is carried out. To do this, use several replaceable circles on the grinding machine.

After fixing on the blade, the handles are swapped until they purchase the necessary shape and smoothness.

Chain knife from chainsaws

The manufacture of a blade from chains from chainsaws should be carried out in such a sequence:

Prepare clothing and mittens from dense fabric and protective mask. Purple charcoal to the hearth and set fire to it with a special fluid.
Fold the workpiece from a solid piece of chains. In the place where the handle is, you can add several segments from the chain. It should be remembered that the result of the work should be a single monolithic product. Separately, the handle is not done to the knife.
Put the workpiece on the corner. Provide air flow to raise the temperature. Wait until steel gets dark red. In such a state, it becomes forging, without losing quality characteristics.
Get a hot chain from the fire and put it on the anvil. Together with a few strong blows to flatten it so that the links welt among themselves, turning into a single monolithic part.
Stepodno, heating the workpiece in the furnace and giving it the necessary shape to her, to shoot a knife, which denotes the handle and blade. After cooling the workpiece to spend it sharpening and polishing.
To harde the product. To do this, it needs to get hot and lower it to cold water. After that, you can spend a knife finish. For this use acid and engraving machine. The finished blade is again polished and ished in a warm soap solution.

Saw knife with your own hands

The first cutting tools made by man were made of stone. The ancestors of modern knives were very fragile and demanded a lot of time and labor for manufacture. Metal blade is deprived of these major flaws. Steel is processed relatively easily and has good physical characteristics.

Knife made with your own hands is the pride of the owner. With independent manufacture, those characteristics needed are selected. First of all, this is a form of blades and handles. The highest quality blades, such as boulat or from damask steel, are made by forging. The material of the blade has the necessary solidity and carbon content.

Knife from disk saw with your own hands

But the forging requires a certain tool and skills. What should I do if you want to make your own unique blade, but at hand only the minimum set of tools? In this case, you should pay attention to the disk saw as a blank for the blade. The metal from which the blade of the disk saw is made well gives to hardening and has the necessary elasticity, so the saw will be the optimal blank for the manufacture of a knife with their own hands. The homemade knife from the disk saw is well holding sharpening, it does not break and can safely make a competition of industrial knives.

Knife from disk saw with your own hands

Creating a layout of a knife

First of all, you need to create a layout of the future knife from the saw. At this stage of work, you can decide on the form of the blade of the future blade and the shape of the handle. The layout is best made from dense cardboard or thin plywood. You can use dense plastic. Hard leather will allow you to understand how the knife from the disk saw will lie in your hand and how convenient it will be used.

When making a layout, it is important to adhere to the following rules:

It is necessary to avoid the presence of direct angles. Straight angle - the location of the voltage concentration. The canvas knife most often breaks or cracks in this place.
The form of the blade must be chosen on the basis of the appointment of the future knife. The most versatile shapes with a straight or downhill. Such blade is equally good as cut and prick.
The dimensions of the layout must correspond to the size of the disk saw blade.

When making a layout, it should also be remembered that the knife can be classified as cold weapons. It all depends on the shape and size. Production and storage of cold weapons criminal offense. Therefore, in order not to fall under the article by the Criminal Code, it is necessary to create a layout that meets the following rules:

The length of the blade or cutting part should not exceed 9 centimeters. Exceeding this length, even 1 mm will allow the home-made blade to cold weapons.
A knife having a blade thickness is more than 2.6 mm, is also cold weapons. This parameter can be neglected, since the saw thickness of the saw is usually 2 mm.
The hardness should not be more than 42 units. This parameter refers to hardening, so we also skip it at the production stage.
The handle must have a limiter, who advocates no more than half a hundred. If the limiter is absent, then the recess must be a depth of less than 4 mm.

After the layout that satisfies the letter of the law and personal preferences is drawn, you can switch to the sandbox to the saw disk. The mileton is applied to the saw disk and will be worked out by a marker. It is best to use a thin marker. The thin line will make it possible to more accurately cut the workpiece and avoid unnecessary processing of the workpiece with a file.

Cutting and primary processing of the workpiece

Fill the workpiece faster than a grinder with a thin cutting disc on metal. In case there is no possibility of using a grinder, then you can use the handheld with metal. It is important to correctly install the pink into the hacksaw. Pilking teeth should be directed forward and the knife should cut when "from ourselves".

Cutting and preparation of the workpiece

At first, the approximate shape of the knife is cut down with the help of straight cuts. Then cut the bends. They are easiest to drink several oblique cuts converging at one point. It is important to leave the allowance of 2-3 millimeters to the drew circuit. This is due to the fact that when using the grinder, the metal on the scene is overheated. Stripping 2-3 mm using a file and emery paper, you can remove the superheated edge of the metal.

Give the final form

Rough blank to the final form is brought with a file or emery. In order to avoid overheating of the future knife from the saw, when processing its emery, it is necessary to periodically omit in the tank with water. This will cool the workpiece. When processing the workpiece using a file, additional cooling is not required. Most optimally will approximately handle the workpiece on the sandpaper, and then spend a thin refined with a file.

Processing of the harvesting of a knife

During the final processing, special attention should be paid to the smoothness of bends. It is important to ensure that the bend is smooth, without depression or bulges. Miniature depressions are easy to check with a file. To do this, using the marker, the test end end is painted. Next, carry a file with a light pressure along the workpiece throughout the bending. In those places where the trace of the marker remains, there are depressions.

Processing continues until no depression remains.

Further, the billet is cleaned of sizes and polished using sandpaper. You can start with 60 grain and it is enough to finish on 320. The workpiece will still be subject to heat treatment, so the pure grinding of the blade will be later.

Drilling shank

The handle on the shank can be fixed with ripples or with glue. The most reliable version of the attachment of the handle lies in the use of ripples. To install them, it is necessary to do in the shank hole. The holes are placed on the shank so that they are in the middle of the future handle. In order for the drill to do not slip at the initial stage of drilling - the holes are dragged.

Due to the fact that the disk saw was made of doped tool steel, it will be not so easy to drill it. Ordinary rods for metal here will not live for a long time.

You should drill with cobalt swelling or drill for ceramics having a winning tip.

In the process of drilling, it is important to add oil into the drilling zone and not to give the drill overheat.

The drilling of the tempered steel is quite difficult task. Therefore, you can make holes in the shank with an electrochemical way. To do this, the wire is attached to the workpiece, then the shank is completely covered with bitumen mastic or plasticine. In the places of future holes, the protective layer is scratched to a naked metal. Further, a saturated solution of the cook salt is prepared, in which the shank of the blade with a wire and an unnecessary metal plate is also with a wire. Both wires are connected to the battery or automotive charger. The future knife from the disk saw is served "plus", on the plate "minus". The etching process is accompanied by gas release. After 30-50 minutes, the holes will be ready.

Formation of cutting edge

Before proceeding with the formation of the cutting edge, it is necessary to conduct preparatory work. It lies in applying markings on the edge of the workpiece. The markup is located exactly in the center and serves as a reference to the manufacture of symmetric descent.

For this, the marker is painted the edge, which will be cutting and using the drill, equal to the thickness of the workpiece, the markup is scratched. The drill has a conical sharpening. Therefore, if you position the drill and workpiece on the same plane, the tip of the drill will be exactly in the middle.

Edge cutting device

Then, using a file with a large notch, you can proceed to the formation of the cutting edge. In the absence of due skill to create a smooth edge, you can use the simple device. It consists of a base, angle and guide with a platform for sandpaper. The sandpaper 180 sandpaper is pasted on the platform with the guide. In the corner must be drilled in advance several holes vertically one over the other. The knife plaffing is fixed on the base and the guide is inserted into the hole at that height so that the angle between the base plane and the emery paper platform was the same that was chosen to form the descents. Universal is an angle from 22 to 30 degrees.

Having done a smooth descent before the middle of the thickness of the workpiece, the knife turns over, then make the same descent on the reverse side. Using such a simple device, you can easily form a smooth blade.

Ready blade

Thus, it turns out a finished blade at a given sharpening angle. But at this stage, the blade is ready only conditionally. It does not have the desired hardening in order to confidently hold sharpening. And it has not passed the release procedure to reduce fragility. In fact, it is a semi-finished knife from a saw, which can already be used, but it is better to do a few more steps.

Hardening

Thermal processing will allow the knife to give the knife the necessary hardness, it will not be fascinated during operation.

To quench the knife from the saw, it is necessary to heat up to a temperature of 750-920 degrees. If you do not gain such a temperature, then the steel will not be tempered, and if he is heated too much, then the blade will be unnecessarily fragile.

At home, it is not possible to determine the exact temperature. However, there is a way out. To control the temperature, a simple magnet will fit. As soon as the blank for the blade will cease to magazine - it is heated to the desired temperature.

After the temperature of the workpiece reached the desired limits, it must be kept in such a state about 1-1.5 minutes per 1 mm thickness. In the case of a homemade knife from a saw, time for hardening is 3-5 minutes. This will be enough. Next, the blank is lowered in a pre-heated to 50 degrees vegetable or machine oil. This procedure should be done carefully. Couples of oil can flash from the split billet, so you need to have a fire extinguisher at hand.

A little bit about the mountain for quenching. If the industrial equipment is not possible, then the mountain can be made with your own hands. To do this, it is necessary to divide the fire of such sizes so that it is possible to evenly warm the workpiece. Further, how firewood will fight and coals will appear, self-made knife are placed on them. A household hairdryer or pump for pumping mattresses can be used as blacksmithing fur.

Vacation

After hardening the blade you need to let go. This procedure is produced in order to reduce the brittleness, as well as to give the knife from the saw of high elasticity. For vacation, the blade is cleaned by sandpaper from the scale, resulting in the hardening process, and placed in a conventional oven, heated to 190 degrees. There the blade is withstanding for an hour, then the heated oven is turned off.

The knife must smoothly cool to room temperature.

After this procedure, the workpiece has the necessary hardness and elasticity.

Vacation Blade in the oven

Drinking the harvesting of handles and preparation for gluing

To complete work with a knife, it is necessary to make a handle. There may be various variations of materials used as a handle. The most popular material is a tree. The wooden handle is impregnated with linseed oil to prevent the harmful effect on her moisture.

It is selected smooth plank from the tree of such rocks. The thickness of the plank should be no less than half astimeter for convenience. Thick plate can be cut along. Using a knife harvest as a milestone, markup is applied on the plate, including the holes for rice. For a good fit of the future handle to the shank, it is necessary to remove the fit plane using the sandpaper.

Formation of the top of the handle

The upper part of the handle is prepared in advance due to the reason that after gluing the handle to the shank, the upper part is hampered. Also during the processing, you can scratch the blade, which is extremely undesirable. On the markup caused during the preparation process, the holes under rice are drilled. They are inserted into the rod of a suitable diameter. It allows you to hardly connect both parts of the workpiece and will not let them move in the processing process.

Finished handle for knife

The formation occurs using files and emery paper. At this stage, it is important to remember about the permissible dimensions of the limiter, the subfold recess.

The final processing is carried out using emery paper with graininess 800. Before gluing all the details must be carefully deflected. This can be done with acetone or solvent. After drying the degreaser, you can apply glue or epoxy resin.

Making rivets

The adhesive mount of the handle to the shank is not reliable. In order to avoid breakage of the handle, wooden plates must be copped with clans. Cloppings are made of metal, which is not subject to corrosion. It can be non-ferrous metal alloys or stainless steel. Also as clans, you can use a copper or brass tube.

Making rivets for knife

From the rod of the appropriate length, the workpiece of the future clap is scorn. It should be 2-3 millimeters longer than the thickness of the handle. Climbing a closet in the vice, with the help of a hammer we are fragrant one end. Must happen to the fungus at one end of the rod. Next, the coolness, pre-lubricated with epoxy glue, is inserted into the holes in the handle and is also fragmented on the other side of the handle. For the splitting of a clap made of the tube, it will be best to use the ball from the bearing.

Giving handle

After the glue dries, proceed to handling the handle. First, with the help of the leg, the protruding parts of the riveting are staged. Then the coarse rashpille billet makes the form. First form a knife handle profile. Stop wood until the shank metal will appear. Then sharp angles and give a handle form that lies well in hand.

Grinding and varnishing knife handle

Finishing grinding is performed using sandpaper. Gradually increasing graininess It is necessary to remove all rough risks from the paper of larger grain. It is enough to complete the grinding process of the knife handle with paper 600 grain. The last stage in the manufacture of the handle will be impregnated.

There are several ways of impregnating handles for better saving. It is impregnated with oils, impregnation with wax or varnish coating.

Each methods have its advantages and disadvantages. For example, the wax must be pre-melt it, and the heating adhesively affects the strength of the glue to which the handle is glued. Oils must be updated periodically. And varnish wears only the function of surface protection.

Sharpening blade

The final line in the manufacture of a knife from the disk saw will be its finish sharpening. To do this, it is best to use grinding lump made of wooden plank. On the smooth plate paste sandpaper with a graininess of 1000, 1500 and 2000 for one grain to each side. Also, a piece of leather is glued to the skid for sharpening editing. A little learning, as well as taking the skill, you can put the knife so that it will cut the paper on the weight and shave the hair.

So, having a minimum of tools and skills, but possessing the necessary knowledge, you can make a great knife from the disk saw. The characteristics of the homemade knife from the disk saw are often higher than the store analogues in the budget segment. On the saw disk, after the manufacture of one knife, there is still a place left? You should make another knife!

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