Do you need a normal iron door, and the prices in the market "bite"? There is an option to build it yourself. Let's look together how the metal door is done with your own hands, starting with the preparation of the tool, the purchase of material and the sketch sketch and ending with insulation and finishing.

Make the iron door is quite real.

Make a metal door with your own hands for an amateur task is quite real, but there is one nuance: you must freely work with a grinder and at least at the initial level to own the welding machine. But before making the door itself you need to prepare a tool and material.

Selection of tools

• Bulgarian;
• Welding machine;
• Screwdriver or screwdriver set;
• Electrode with a shock function or perforator;
• Round "drake" file;
• A hammer;
• Roulette;
• Kern;
• Level (preferably 1.5 m);
• Corolnic

Master tool.

In addition, you will need a variety of fittings for power tools. This refers to the discs for the grinder for metal, the cord brush on the grinder, drills on a drill, emery and other small things without which the manufacture of metal doors is impossible.

Purchase of material for making metal door

For iron doors you need to buy:

• Metal sheet thick from 1.5, up to 3 mm;
• Profiled pipe 40x20 mm - minimum 7 - 8 m;
• Corner 50x50 mm - about 7 m;
• Bar 40x4 mm - 2 m;
• Loops ordinary dad mom or hinged - 2 pcs.

If you do not have much experience in welding work, then it is better to take a sheet under the entrance doors thoroughly, at least at least 2 mm, and better 3 mm.Welding metal doors the point is not particularly complicated, but the slim sheet is very easy to burn through.

Material for metal doors

You still need a good smooth table or some kind of goats, make a metal door on Earth very hard, and for a novice master is not really real.

Making a sketch

Professional drawings on standard iron doors are now found, but the problem is that these documents were made according to GOST 31173-2003, that is, 2200x900 mm or 2200x1200 mm (for wide opening).

Professional drawing under the door welded from metal

The entrance metal door in the apartment or private house does not always comply with the standard, so it is better to make a sketch. Otherwise, on a non-standard opening you will have to either cut part of the slope, or somehow close the gap next to the door.

An example of a sketch for non-standard iron doors.

Kohl, we make the iron door with your own hands, then at the stage of creating a sketch you need to consider some tolerages below on the example they are shown:

• Starting dimensions of the doorway 216x90 cm;
• It is impossible to make a frame (Lutka) to the walls, as there will be no way to fill the mounting foam, so we leave 10 mm on the top edge on the foam, plus 5 mm thickness of the corner;
• Below, we make small threshings, respectively, 25 mm from the corner will be cut off, the total frame height along the internal perimeter remains from the corner;
• Over the sides, we also leave 10 mm per foam, plus 10 mm is a metal thickness in 2 corners, and the width of the internal opening is 87 cm;
• The steel door itself, or rather the frame under it, cannot be made close to the Lutka, if the house starts to "walk" and the Lutka slightly moves, then the canvas woven. Therefore, according to the outer perimeter, we leave a gap of 5 mm, respectively, it turns out 211x86 cm;
• Sheet take more (90x215 cm), as it will be superimposed on the part of the Lutka.

The tool was prepared, the material was bought, the sketch did, now you can start building the iron doors with your own hands.

Seven stages of assembling steel doors

You can make metal doors with your own hands only from the corner or only from the profiled pipe, but the mixed option is obtained more reliable and practical. The outer frame (Lutka) is better to cook from the angle of 50x50 mm, and the frame under the door leaf from the profiled pipe is 40x20 mm.

Stage No. 1. Welding the Lutka

First of all, cut off according to the scheme of the corner and fix them on the desktop or goat clamps. It is important here that the bottom plane was smooth, and the angles were connected under 90º. The rectangle box is checked on diagonals, if they are the same, it means, the corners will be straight.

Fixation of frame clasines.

It is not worthwhile to brew angles, they can be a story, first we grab at several points and again measure the diagonal, until everything is failing, you can still adjust minor inaccuracies.

Spot tack.

When coaling the angles, first we put all the vertical seams, and then go to the horizontal, so the metal will overheat less. Excessive part of the corner we cut out later.

Corner welding.

Now we turn the frame and check the plane with a long level or any smooth standard. No distortion and bends should be.

Check plane frame.

We welcome outdoor joints and immediately stall these seams with a grinder.

Welding outdoor seams.

As shown in the photo from above, we have not cut off a piece of corner from the inside, it must be removed, as it will interfere with the installation. To do this, turn the frame again and cut out the extra pieces of the grinder. Lutka is ready, you can now go to the frame for the iron door.

Cut out extra parts.

Stage No. 2. Frame under the door canvas

When cutting profiled pipes under the door cloth frame, first measure all the long parts, and then cut out short. Otherwise, you can not guess then, the big vertical racks will have to weld from pieces.

The slot to the lock is better to do immediately. To do this, measure the rack from the bottom of 1 m. And we make 2 vertical outbreaks on the dimensions of the castle, and in the middle of this strip cut the formation. To make it easier to break it easier, we make small cuts on them, the arrows in the photo indicate these cuts.

Primary fitting of the castle.

So that the frame of the door leaf clearly lay down in its place, fix the clamps profiled pipes from the inside of the lutki. Do not forget: 5 mm clearance should be left between the profiled pipe and the corner, for this we insert the gasket. As a gasket, you can use the same cuts of the corner.

Fixing the profiled pipe on the frame.

It is important here how to put Profiled pipes, on any such pipe there are welded seams, so this seam should "look" inside the canvas.

Welded seam profiled pipe.

When building a frame under the door canvas, the diagonal is no longer necessary, since we are "tied" to the outer frame. The angles are welded by analogy with the louting, that is, at several points we grab, and then weganize the joints from the center to the edges.

Welding door frame angles.

Here, while the frame is in Lutka, we weld the transverse ribs of stiffness, they are made from the profiled tube.

Fastening rigid ribs.

Now we remove the clamps, we remove the outer frame and cook the ends of the connections in the corners, after which they are stuck all the seams. Be careful, the metal is thin and easily roars.

Sticking welded seams outside necessarily.

Always control where you are top, bottom, loop and castle. At this stage it is very easy to confuse and then it will be difficult to correct the situation without losses.

Stage No. 3. List Fastening

First, we need to cut the sheet in size. From the door leaf frame, we leave 20 mm to the edge of the sheet (5 mm on the gap, plus 15 mm on the back of the Lutki). To cut off exactly on the markup, you can use a profiled pipe, simply secure it with clamps and cut the grinder over the edge.

Standard for cutting a sheet with a grinder.

We put onto the cut sheet of the door frame, check that everywhere it is clearly respected by the backrest and pointingly weld the profiled pipes to the sheet (step of about 100-150 mm). To the frame does not move during welding, it can be fixed by clamps.

Rama grab not along the perimeter, but diagonally. That is: they welded one point, then switched to the opposite and so for the other hand. Otherwise, the design may be a story.

Point welding of the door leaf.

Stage No. 4. How to privar loops

Illustrations	Recommendations
	Sheds We buy ordinary, such as dad-mom (dad with a pin). Before installing canopies immediately need to lubricate.
	From Karaya the canvas, it should be 20 - 25 cm to shed, both from above and below.
	Canopy should be slightly raised so that the sheet does not cling to the frame when opening.
	The canopy is set so that when looking from above, a 1 - 2 mm gap remains between it and the sheet.
	Before how to cook Construction, put the laying under the sheet (a piece of the same sheet). The clearance is needed for the rubber seal.
	Write a canopy.
	So that the canopy holds more reliable, you can breed a metal plate with an overlap on the frame of the web, but it is rather a recommendation than the rule.

Stage number 5. Cut the castle

In the door frame, the lock is already inserted, now you need to try on and place the locations of the propelles in the log.

Marking under the holes in the corner.

The holes for the locking well are drilled by a large drill, then bring to the desired size with a round drakel file.

Hole under the keyhole.

Holes in the corner under the lock itself are cut with a grinder and also processed with a file. Locks are desirable to close from the inside with a metal casing, it can be made of a profiled pipe or angle, the casing is necessarily welded.

The casing to protect the locks of the castle.

Now it remains to try on the lining on made Earlier holes and can be moved to facing works.

Mounting overlaid on the castle.

Step number 6. Facing and insulation

Cheaper and best to warm the iron doors with foam, as a rule, the PSB-C-25 slabs with a thickness of 40 mm are taken. The stove is cut out a little less opening, and the gap then foams the mounting foam.

Warming inlet door foam.

Mineral wool warming the entrance doors is not worth it. The fact is that any wool is afraid of moisture and after wetting sits down, so after a couple of years such a warmer will stop working.

From the inside, the design can be seen by any stove you like, from an OSP, to laminated MDF.

Lining from laminated MDF on the door.

You can also find more detailed articles on the insulation of metal doors.

The outer front of the doors can also be separated by a laminated stove, but it will be easier and cheaper to paint the metal of hammer paint, it is done like this:

1. The entire metal is cleaned with a cord brush (it is convenient to use a cord nozzle on the grinder);
2. The design is degreasing with acetone or gasoline;
3. The metal is covered with a soil under the previously chosen hammer paint;
4. 2 - 3 layers of paint are applied with brush, roller or spray paint.

Staining iron doors hammer paint.

Step number 7. Installation of metal doors

To secure iron doors to pre-trigger on the perimeter of the perimeter, the peculiar shanks from the 40x4 mm strip.

Shanks for mounting iron doors.

The design is installed in such a sequence:

1. Insert the log in the doorway;
2. The perforator through the shanks drill the deaf hole in the slopes;
3. Next, you can score metal crutches or fix the design with anchor bolts;
4. Hanging the door leaf;
5. Place the gaps around the perimeter of the luttiki by mounting foam;
6. The door is installed, now it remains to cut the surplus dried foam and equip the slopes.

So the iron door is installed with their own hands.

Output

As you can see on home "production," without professional schemes and expensive equipment, a good iron door was collected with their own hands and it cost it approximately cheaper than the factory analogue.

With a good decor, the homemade door will look no worse than the factory.

Today, not only the townspeople, but also the majority of country owner owners as the entrance doors prefer metal structures. In theory, they are much stronger, more reliable and durable wooden or plastic analogs. But in fact, many solid looking metal doors from the budget segment can be opened with a tin knife, and scrap for them is a universal key. Install the same massive expensive design not for everyone for pocket, and the high cost is not a guarantee of the appropriate quality.

Therefore, the craftsmen who own the skills of welding and the corresponding tool base, prefer to make such doors independently. With this situation, you can be confident both in the Frame Fortress, and in decent parameters of noise absorption and thermal insulation, and the appearance to give in general stylist. Forumhouse users also mastered the process and share the results. We study their experience and - cook the metal door.

• Experience - the best assistant
• Useful tips for beginners from experienced

Metal entrance doors - constructive

In a typical version, the metal door consists of a box, canvas, loops and mounting elements (plates, eyelashes, pins). Without certain costs for materials and components, it is not necessary, but the door-made door will cost much cheaper than the purchase. The exact list of consumables depends on the constructive, dimensions and purpose - if for a fairly simplest frame with a trim and thawed, then the door must be multilayer to enter the house, with effective shock fittings and decorative facing. In the second case, the approximate set of the required as follows:

• Metal corner (from 5 mm) or profile - for the box;
• Metal corner or profile tube - for frame, rigidity ribs;
• Metal sheet - for power casing (optimal thickness 2-3 mm).
• Thermal insulation material (mineral wool, foam, EPPS or PSB);
• Accessories - loops (better with bearings), seal, eye, castle / locks, handle, etc.;
• Finishing - wood, forging, plastic (for the inside various panels or laminate).

One of the most important stages - measurements, if you make a mistake, in the future, the installation of the door will significantly complicate, so it is necessary to adhere to certain recommendations:

• All measurements are not from the finishing layer, but from the draft wall;
• Between the box and the opening should remain a groove, standard - 2 cm (on alignment and installation seam);
• The gap between the box and the blade from the loop side is 3 mm, from the castle side - 5 mm.

The presence of a working drawing with dimensions or at least a sketch will be a good help, not every fantasy is so developed so as to present the end result in the mind. Fortunately, quite workable drawings have enough in the network if the drawing and drawing is also difficult.

Experience - the best assistant

But the best assistant is the experience that participants of our portal are generously divided.

A profile pipe 20x40 mm, a metal sheet with a thickness of 3 mm, was a mineral wool thick, and MDF finish as an insulator.

Since cooking the frame is necessary on a rigid smooth surface, and the suitable cooking table at Cleretz was not, he used the beams put in the same plane. He also used clamps to keep the geometry of the product, some in the welding process slightly "grab" elements to the hob. dronduletus.made the door to several stages.

Cut the pipe in size, the angles in 45⁰ did not observe, as the welding was joined, assembled the frame, chopped off the diagonal, grabbed, checked, secured the clamps. Weled the frame and welded the ribs of stiffness.

The sheet on the trim was cut into view of the allowance for the nestling throughout the perimeter (1.5 cm), recorded on the frame of the clamps. I first welded from the inside of the frame - from the middle to the edge, grabs (about 2 cm in a step of 15-20 cm). To leaf less than led, cooked diagonally - opposite sides in different directions. After the same way, the external seams began to speak, cleaned with a grinder, in the same manner risen over rigidity ribs. It was possible to do with one edge, but the leaf caught curved. The following was welded "Pocket" under the castle - cut out in the end of the groove, on the perimeter, the edge of the profile trimming.

The box was cooked from a 40x40 mm corner, a channel was used for the threshold, 100x50mm, when cutting the segments, added gaps not only on the loop and lock, but also up, and down (4 mm). As protection against lovers, an additional plates / plugs have welded over the place where the rhegel will be included on the entire width (on both sides). Welded metal strips for fastening the box to the wall (two above and three on the sides). It was defended not only from the knocking of the riglel, but also from the removal of the door with the loops.

dronduletus.

The pieces of an 8 cm width is welded inside the door, on the back side of the frame, raising it with 8 mm from it - these are anti-removable crabs.

The canopies welded in a horizontal position - putting the canvas in the box and laying between the canopy and the steel plate 2 mm thick, so that after sticking the seal and avoid friction. Sheds welded at a distance of 25 cm from the edge of the canvas to the center of each canopy, pre-checking the level and fixing the clamps.

Since the walls are old and leaves much to be desired, refused ordinary anchors, and the pins used only for fixing the threshold (schwelller). Box fucked on studs, 25 cm long (diameter 12 mm) and chemical anchor, after mounting the box, the door joined the door and drilled the holes for the beel. In the cavity of the door laid the insulation, sewed all the MDF panels, painted.

Another participant in the portal process did not photograph, but his observations will be useful to everyone who is going to do the manufacture of the door.

outsayder Member Forumhouse

I also weld the doors, I did not do in the process, but I will tell you the fineness. I did with the test, they were soaked with these doors as a case at the factory.

Metal door with his own hands, Lichfaki and conclusions:

• Iron for the plating is better to take hot rolled products, in a cold tight with geometry and straight corners;
• To welcome the loop plate to the clamp box, you need to slightly hold and immediately let go. When the seam is cooling, the plate will bring up with the necessary gap. All loops after fixation are boiled;

• If you do a special device (as in the figure), the clamp of the sheet to the corner during welding will avoid "bubbles";

• In order to dry the door to the canvas in the door of the door, the loop is welded so that the loop axis accounted for the edge of the sheet;

Intermediate rough result in the photo.

Master81.he welded two metal doors - two-dimensional and single (255x110 mm and 210x0.72 mm), and looking at his creation, it is clear that with the metal he "on the short leg."

The box was cooked from the corner with a thickness of five millimeters, it is possible six, but four undesirable, the frame from the profile pipe 40x20 mm. Difficultizing design did not cause design.

Master81 Member Forumhouse

I measured the doorway, minus a centimeter from the width and length, cut the corner with a grinder smoothly, first gathered the box, then the frame was already under the door.

Another Obligar, a member of Forumhouse from Moscow with nickname oSS., I already made a sixth metal door, if you count the garage doors. The sheet of three millimeters thick, the frame from the profile pipe 50x40x3 mm, as with most, but to the question of security it came thoroughly. Bronnoscaps, inner pad, Suwald castle with four beygles, protective curtain in the well. These improvements increased the cost of the product, but calm is more expensive. Lack of photo oSS. Compensates for the optimized assembly process and useful tips.

oSS Member Forumhouse.

Before that, the door was made by different techniques, including first the strapping, and after - the patches and the frame assembly. The sequence selected this time seems more optimistic.

The optimized option looks like this:

• Started from the front vertical profile, made the frame, secured the lock in the frame, checked how it works;
• Made the rear vertical profile, immediately welded the counterclosures (behind the loops);
• Collected the entire frame from the profiles on the tape;
• Cut over the frame of the trim (with an overlap 20 mm);
• "Intrived" the sheet, fed by taps with a step of 150 mm;
• In the racks of the box (strapping), the grooves cut the grooves and counterclocks;
• Welded a box with gaps (3 and 5 mm);
• Welded loops.

ABOUT sS.i advises to insert one combined door lock instead of two differentty.

Output

In the topic on the forum dedicated to, the opinion was expressed that the costs of homemade would be tangible, and the savings are not so significant that the sheepnica cost is expected. However, for skillful hands and the manufacturing process is quite satisfying, and the ability to choose decent materials, and not to guess what is inside the purchased design, an important factor. Therefore, while some reason about feasibility, others are doing and share real experience in order to facilitate the task of beginners.

How to save on the inlet wooden doors, you can learn from the article - also on our portal. In the video - an overview of the popular new doors with the most famous exhibition.

If the prospect of the execution of welding works scares you less than the price tags on the doors of metal entrance - you can make it no worse for your dwelling yourself. And if you compare with Chinese lots, then also much more reliable.

The detailed instruction below will help you cope with this task. It would seem that the choice in the market is so huge that there is no need to make it yourself. But for many, this process itself can be very interesting, and the ability to save a considerable role. However, to independently cope with this complex work, one desire is not enough. At a minimum, you need to have at least small skills in the weld and have the necessary tool.

To understand where to get started, what materials you need for this and in what quantity it is necessary to carefully study the opening. Often in the houses of the old building, the entrance doors are holding "on a honest word": if you pull out the box, it turns out that there was an emptiness between it and the capital wall, sealed by plaster.

Therefore, it is necessary to clean the opening to its real sizes to determine the size and design of the future door (see). If the opening is standard (in our realities it is about 900x2000 mm), do it yourself it will not be so difficult.

If it is much wider, you will have to cook an additional metal frame and consolidate it on the side of the door. If the open is higher, then the additional frame is welded above the box. In her, if desired, you can insert a shockproof or armored glass.

Having received all the sizes you are interested in, make a detailed drawing of the design of the future metal door and count the required amount of materials.

Tools and materials

In this case, you will need:

• Steel sheet size 1000x2000 mm and 2 mm thick.
• Profiter 50x25 mm - 9 P.M. Of these, 6 p.m. For the manufacture of the box and 2-3 P.M. For ribs hardness.
• Steel corner 32x32 mm - 6 p.m. For the door frame.

For reference. Metal corners and profiled tubes are sold with whole whips of 3 or 6 meters. Consider this when you buy so that you do not have to weld one item from two items. Purchase with a margin.

You can enjoy the doors with wooden panels or straps, stick PVC film that will mimic the structure of the tree or separate the doors with a soft material. You can also simply paint the cloth, and to improve the appearance of the privaris to the door of any forged decorative elements.

Metal door made with their own hands often exceeds many factory samples both in quality and reliability. After all, it is not for nothing that the house is a small fortress, and the entrance door is a fortress gate. And it's hard to add to this. After all, if the entrance doors are ordered in the market or in the supermarket, it is not a guarantee that the doors are high-quality and reliable. On the other hand, often the situation associated with the need to cook and put a temporary construction for the repair period makes the idea of \u200b\u200bdoing everything entirely real and relatively cheap.

Metal door with their own hands - from idea to practical incarnation

Conditionally, an independent embodiment of the idea to be folded from sets of metal pipes, plates and corners The real metal entrance door does not require greater cleaning work experience. True, you need to immediately recognize that the metal door will be collected with your own hands with certain difficulties. But with a thoughtful organization of work and the availability of the tool of many errors, it will be possible not only to avoid, but also to fix it in time.

First of all, it is necessary to determine what it will be for the construction:

• easy temporary design for the period until the real armored door will be purchased;
• the design that is planned to build at a certain time as an entrance door to the corridor from the staircase;
• normal entrance door to an apartment or a house with insulation and reliable lock;
• monumental structure for centuries with solid confidence that the door will protect from any vandals.

Based on this and the strength and time, and the necessary materials are calculated. It is planned to be the whole process of work from the removal of the measure, before installing the outer and inner covering of the door. Conditionally, the door from the profile pipe is created in several stages:

• the initial stage is the removal of measure, drawing preparation, selection and order of materials, the preparation of the tool;
• stage of study of individual nodes and connections, the preparation of a stapel or mounting table for work;
• creating a door block, welding of doors, fitting, installation of shut-off devices, installation of a metal sheet;
• installation door in the doorway, fixation, finish;
• installing the object and internal filler, system adjustment.

This operation scheme, although it contains a large number of items, but with a gradual execution, their excellent result will be guaranteed.

Preparatory stage - where to get started

It is not difficult to guess that the iron door is made with their own hands from metal pipes, corners, chawls and sheet metal. But it is worth starting work with the organization of the workplace and the selection of the tool for work. It should be remembered that there is no little tool. Always learned to work in one tool, it turns out that it is more convenient to use several more tools to work. So for normal operation you need to cook:

• metal ruler, cheb, roulette, metal square, chalk;
• bulgarian with a set of cutting, enroll and grinding abrasive circles;
• with a set of drills for metal and kerner;
• the welding machine, here it is preferable to choose inverter, it is the best choice for newcomers today;
• hammers of different weight;
• metal Files - Triangular, Round, Square, Flat;
• magnetic holders - multi-profile, with an obligatory angle of 90 degrees;
• clamps, clamps, locks;
• mandatory mask of the welder and kragi to work with hot metal.

The next point is the organization of the workplace. After all, before welding the metal door itself, at least prepare the platform for posting all items for fitting. Ideally for this have a mounting table or workbench, but you can first prepare and a simple flat platform on a concrete or OSB plate.

The constructed metal door will require the following materials:

• metal profile 20x40 mm - 22-24 rose meters;
• sheet metal - 1x2 meters thick from 2.5-2.8 mm;
• loops for mounting doors with bearings;
• castle with overhead handles;
• to fill in the internal volume;
• insulation and material of the outer and internal sheatting of doors.

Marking and preparation of parts for assembly

At the stage of preparation of parts, the design of the metal doors the drawing of which is drawn in scale, draws in the form of individual drawings - the study concerns how the parts will be attached and what the sequence of work will be attached. Details of drawings makes it possible to minimize errors and waste during metal cutting.

When transferring drawings to the metal, it is already necessary to clearly represent how the metal door is arranged, which elements require special accuracy, and for which it is necessary to make a gap of 1-2 mm. For the door frame, it is important that all parts are made with the smallest deviations, especially if the profile pipe will be welded on sections of 45 degrees.

The first thing is prepared the door frame. Outdoor tolerances should be no more than 1 cm with respect to the doorway. But the inner part should be ideal in all planes.

Metal door with their own hands, the drawings of which are developed taking into account the installation of safe locks with fixation at several points of the unit must be reinforced by an internal frame from the profile pipe or a corner.

In the process of displaying the parts of the door block on the mounting table, the installation location is determined:

• anchor bolts fixing the block into the wall;
• door loops;
• lock holes and fixation of the safe mechanism;

Even before the hinges to the metal door and connect the block into a single design, it is recommended to drill the necessary holes in the profile, and only after that proceed to the final assembly.

Build the door block

Creasing, the metal door with your own hands, the assembly of the door block and the frame of the door itself have a lot in common. In both cases, this is the assembly of simple rectangles. The assembly technology with the use of welding joints of profile pipes at an angle of 45 degrees provides:

• preparation of a profile with pre-cut corners;
• calculation of all parts in the same plane;
• checking the internal angles of the door block;
• with the help of several touches of the electrode, the design literally grabbed into one unit;
• with the help of the carbon, the correctness of direct angles is checked, and the roulette is internal diagonal;
• the whole design is welded with a structural seam.

Before you cook the door from the profile pipe, the ready-made door block is trying on the site of the opening. Further, with the help of enlightened and grinding wheels, the grinders are cleaned with glare and beautiful smooth seams are formed.

Assembling carcass door

The entrance door with their own metal hands is welded along the same technology as well as the door block, with the only difference that its dimensions should be as accurate as possible from the outside of the structure.

In fact, the door block in this case can be used as a template for laying out parts and fixing the frame before welding. The first thing during the assembly is welding the door loops. Details are fitted so that the clearance between the block and the door itself was 2-3 mm, but below the gap should be made more - up to 3-5 mm. When used in the design of simple garage loops, you need to weld them from above the frame and block. For hidden installation loops, you need to provide additional space in the door block. For this, it makes sense to make the side of the fastening of the loops from the pipe of a larger cross section. The gap from the bottom of 5-7mm between the door and the unit is needed because the armored door is welded with their own hands from a metal of 3-4 mm, and the weight of the door will over time makes it in the loop, gradually lowering the door.

After welding, the loops and the guide proceed to the welding of the frame of the door itself. The door block is placed horizontally, on a flat surface. With the level of level, its position is checked. Pipes, cut in size using wooden skulls, are laid out by level inside the block. The gaps between the door frame and the block are installed using wooden wedges or plastic crosses for mounting tile.

Further, as with the block, temporary fixation is carried out with separate points. After checking the angles and diagonals, the final welding of all elements into one is one. After welding the door frame, the whole design rises and is checked in a vertical position. If the door opens and closes easily, it is not assisted for the unit you can start installing internal struts and locks.

When forming a frame, all elements must be fixed in the same plane. Metal during welding has a deform property. As a result, the homemade doors made of metal with their own hands are obtained by curved.

Installation of the castle and shut-off accessories

In the question how to cook the metal door with your own hands can not be trifles. Especially if it concerns security. Installation of the lock and safe skeins are necessarily carried out in the process of making the door frame.

While the frame does not trim the metal sheet in it convenient to make holes and install the lock. When placing the castle, it should be borne in mind that the armored door, however,, like any other during operation, can descend. This means that the keyboard mechanism should be placed so that when lowering the door, he could not swam.

The gap between the lower part of the lock language and the bottom of the hole in the block should be no less than the gap between the door and the threshold of the block. Setting on the frame door mounting hole This fact must be considered. As an option, you can cut the opening of the door in the frame of the door mounting plate. Then, simply from the metal strip to make a bar for mounting and breed it into the case from the inside.

The second option of the installation provides for a slot in the pipe frame tube and processing it with its file to the desired size. True, while the castle may interfere with the closure of the door. It just will not give the door to close, if the gap between the frame and the block will be less than 4 mm.

Installation of metal sheet

The completion stage of the assembly of the metal design of the door is set to install the door of the door on the frame. The markup of the sheet is recently carried out when the whole design is ready.

Previously before welding the metal door with your own hands in the final design, it is recommended to apply a block onto a sheet. Cut it with chalk to clearly represent how much metal and which side needs to be removed.

Outdoor loops when installing a sheet you also need to outline. Since the sheet needs to be specifically cut under them.

Sending a sheet in size, it is installed on the mounting table and the door frame is put on top. Welding is carried out by reverse polarity, the fact is that when using a fine metal, it simply begins to deform or in places of welding, the burner is formed - a hole in a thin metal. When a polarity change on the inverter device, the risk will be significantly less.

Welding sheet and frame is carried out by thin electrodes with a diameter of 2 or 2.5 mm. In no case use the electrodes with a diameter of 4 or 5 mm. Welding is carried out in one direction - gradually pressing the sheet to the frame. The length of the welding seam should be no more than 1.5-2 cm. At the same time, the distance between the seams should be 5-6 cm. When welding a sheet and pipe welding is made on both sides of the pipe in a checker order.

To familiarize yourself with the order of work and work on individual elements, you can typing in the search engine - how to make the iron door with your own hands.

Making a metal door do it yourself - video

It's on the shoulder even a novice master if he can handle the welding machine.

Of course, you will not manage to make a complex model immediately, but to make and install the base model of the front door - it is quite accessible.

The significance of the entrance door is difficult to underestimate.

This is not only the first and main border that prevents the penetration of unclean to the hand of citizens into your home, but also one of the key details of the interior of a residential building.

Noise isolation and adjustment of the air temperature in the room are another two functions of the inlet metal door.

And if you start a major overhaul in the apartment, then the question of putting a new inlet metal door is solved one of the first.

The ready-made door purchased in the store does not guarantee that there are no hidden defects, and there is no price there for a pocket there, it will be difficult to adjust it, and noise insulation will not suit you.

Well, independently made shaped doors are still ahead, but we will start with the simplest.

As in other cases, the manufacture of a metal door begins with paperwork, in other words, we have to create a drawing.

To make the drawing to be accurate and appropriate true, you have to determine the size.

The design scheme proposed for familiarizes the input door will introduce you to the names and location of the main nodes and elements.

Preparing a schema

The drawing of the inlet metal door is a large-scale diagram of the door canvase, which will be assembled and the installation of the product, with the dimensions of the door frame, the location of the ribs, hinges.

Arming a tape measure and remove measurements from the doorway.

Standard is the size of the door size of 90 x 200 cm, if the actual dimensions of the opening are much more data, it makes sense to install a separate block on top or side of the door leaf.

The side unit can be made deaf or swing, and the top is to close with sheet glazing, glazing or stratum.

All this is also applied to our drawing.

The dimensions of the door box must be 2 cm less than the doorway - it will be a mounted gap in which the unit installation is adjusted to avoid breaks. Below is the diagram of the metal door in the context.

Most often the door is attached to 2-4 loops, their amount depends on weight, which has your design.

The loops are external and hidden, the second option is more complicated in the manufacture and requires certain skills.

Since we are trying to make a "door for beginners", we will stop in the first version.

For a uniform load distribution, the loops must be made at an equal distance between themselves, and the top and bottom loop should be located at a distance of 15 cm from the edge of the door.

You can make ribs in any direction - horizontally, vertically or mesh, as well as diagonally - everything is at your discretion.

The ribs need to be done so that they do not pass in places where the installation of the castle, eye, door handle will be performed.

The number of ribs are determined by themselves, it should ensure the incidence of the door under its own weight, otherwise after some time the door will need to be repaired.

So, the drawing is ready.

Cooking materials and tools

Deciding with the sizes, we are preparing a set of tools that we will need when working, count the number of necessary materials and go to the store.

We offer you an exemplary list of tools:

• welding machine;
• drill;
• a set of screwdrivers or screwdriver;
• bulgarian;
• clamps;
• files or grinding machine;
• goats or door assembly;
• measuring instruments (corner; roulette, etc.);
• building level.

For metal doors of standard size, you will need:

• steel sheet with a thickness of 2-3 mm - 100 x 200 cm;
• metal corner 3; 2 x 3; 2 cm - 6 p.m. (for the door frame);
• profile pipe 5 x 2; 5 cm - about 9 pm. (for the door frame and rigidity);
• metal plates 40 x 4 cm thick 2-3 mm - minimum 4 pieces (for mounting the door frame to the walls);
• door hinges;
• lock;
• accessories;
• anchor bolts;
• anti-corrosion coating;
• metal paint;
• mounting foam.

Accessories and castle choose to your taste. Manufacturers offer a large selection of locks, the most reliable of which are considered tripartite.

The castle with the rigels on the three sides, of course, it is more difficult to establish, but it is also not easy to hack it.

If you make a metal door for the utility room (shed), then it is allowed to make a lightweight economical option - in this case, a thick rebel rod is used for ribs instead of profile pipe.

Build door

Working on the assembly of the metal door is made in several stages.

Collect the box

From the proftrube, it is necessary to make blanks for the box, the corners cut off in the angle at an angle of 90 °, lay the corner with a rectangle, fasten the clamps and grab welding.

After checking the perpendicularity of the sides of the sides by the coal, and also measure the distance between the angles oppositely diagonally and compared, the obtained measurements should be equal.

If there is a breakdown, then additional adjustment will be required. If everything is in order, then we perform the final welding and grinding of the seams.

The same scheme will be used a little later to assemble the door frame.

We weld to the box metal mounting plates.

Collect door leaf

Here we will need a new measurement - remove the dimensions on the inner walls of the door frame.

Recovering 7-10 cm on each side, we obtain the actual sizes of the frame of our metal door.

We write from the corners of the segment of the desired length and produce pre-processing, similar to the workpiece for the door frame.

We put the prepared corners inside the finished box, forming a rectangle, and conduct a controlling prominance of the design.

If necessary, we produce fit and brew joints tightly.

We proceed to the manufacture of the door leaf, for which the steel sheet is placed on the table (goats), we place the finished frame and the contour of the desired dimensions, retreating from the external edges of the frame by about 10 cm.

Cut the sheet along the contour, grind the locations of the sections and weld it to the frame.

Be careful, to avoid deformation do not make welding with a continuous insecible seam.

It is much more functional to perform welding with segments of about 30 mm with a period of 15-20 mm in the direction from the center to the edges of the product.

Do not hurry, periodically give the doors to cool, otherwise hidden defects may appear, and repair doors will have to do after a short time.

Door canvas lay on the table with the outside side down, on top you need to install the door frame.

Using lining with a thickness of 2-5 mm throughout the perimeter, the position of the box is adjusted relative to the frame.

This gap will later install a sealing ribbon, which will increase the quality of the door as noise insulation.

On the finished door canvase, we make feeds under the inner lock and, if necessary, under the eyes, we drill holes for fastening the door handle, carefully brush the edges of the holes.

The size of the cut for the lock should be such that its installation is without a backlash, but ensured access to the lock if the repair is required.

Cut the lock itself and perform the installation of fittings we will be a little later.

If you use a mounted lock, then you need to install on the same level of the door web and the box of the lining for it.

Breppy on the door frame of half door loops with grooves, the second parts of the loops (with pins awarded up) weld at the appropriate places to the doorway so that they are located on the same axis, spinning the welding location.

Some loops are equipped with lubrication holes, in this case, their installation should provide access to the technological holes and the ability to remove the door if it is necessary to make repairs.

We wipe the metal structure from dust and chips so that there are no hidden defects after the painting, we applied anti-corrosion protection, on top of which, after drying, you can perform a tinting, or make a decorative finish.

You can clearly familiarize yourself with the process of making an inlet metal door using the video below.

Mount the door

Door box put in the opening and carry out adjustment using a plumb and level so that in the near future did not have to do repairs.

Having achieved the right position of the box, we produce installation, fixing the steel hinges to the wall with the help of anchors, inspire the door leaf on the loop.

We check - if the installation is performed correctly, the metal door will be closed and open without distortion, without engaging behind the door frame, and the loops will move without effort.

At the final stage, the installation of the eye, the locking of the lock and the installation of the handle is performed.

The lock and the handle are attached to the door with bolts so that in the subsequent can be easier to perform their repair or replacement.

After installing the lock, rub the end sides of the riglels with chalk and make marks on the door frame. Cut the metal according to the resulting labels, forming the grooves for the riglels.

For additional protection of the lock from a possible hacking, we weld the segment of the corner to the doorway in the locations of the riglels, it also makes sense to make the doorway in the place of installation of the lock, welding from its inside the steel sheet with a thickness of 6 mm.

At the same stage, the operation of the lock is performed, the door closing density.

Another video for those who makes the repair gives very topical recommendations on how to properly strengthen the door and cut the lock, how the adjustment is passed.

Now you can proceed to the final finish.

At the very beginning of the article, it was already mentioned that the metal door at the entrance to the house should perform some functions, such as noise insulation, preventing foreign smells and low temperature air from the outside.

The most practical, efficient and cheap insulating material for finishing doors is generally accepted ordinary foam.

We cut a foam into pieces of the desired size and lay them without lumen in the space of the door leaf between the ribs of stiffness.

For better sealing, we use the mounting foam, which we embrace the space between the foam and ribs of stiffness, around the lock, as well as the internal space of rigidity ribs through the pre-drilled holes.

Noise isolation is also well provided by the Ministry of Service.

From the inside, the metal door can be seen by wooden slats, MDF panels or other finishing materials, and on the perimeter of the door leaf, we glue the sealing tape.

We throw the mounting gaps between the door frame and the discovery of the doorway. Our design is ready for operation!

Now you can be sure that the hidden defects in this design are missing, the quality of the input metal door is 100%, and the performance of work has made it possible, performing repair, save a considerable amount from the family budget.

Installation of the inlet metal door we demonstrate the masters in this video lesson.