The tree is widely used in construction, everyday life. This durable material retains decorativeness before the appearance of mold, other pests. To prevent damage, the surface is treated with different compositions of natural, industrial origin.

Why the mold appears on the wood

Mushrooms are the main enemy of wood. Conditions contributing to their appearance:

• High humidity .
• Standing air without ventilation.
• Sharp change shifts, condensate formation on the surface of the products.
• Waste wood freezing, which leads to deep penetration of the dispute.

• Located on the bark of the tree, during his life does not develop.
• Appears when contacting products with Earth.
• Comes from the air.

Preliminary protection that reduces the risk of infection:

Several varieties are distinguished:

• The black mold has many strains, it is impossible to distinguish which naked eye. Common characteristics are excessive activity, the ability to rapid destruction, damage to the material.

It is a serious danger to humans: disputes when entering the respiratory tract cause allergic reactions, irritation, poisoning. A variety is resistant to the impacts used to combat her.

• White mold is less than a rack to aggressive means. Amazes wooden items, products, food. The colonial whiteness for a person does not represent a serious danger, but can cause allergies.
• Mushrooms Blue are striking wood, lead to its rot. Dangerous for carrying structures: when rotting, their ability to withstand loads is reduced, save stiffness.

• Actinomycetes - something average between mushrooms and algae. Prefer to appear in high humidity, soften the wood structure.

Methods of struggle

There are many methods, natural and synthetic agents.

Folk remedies

Folk methods against the damage of the tree are gentle, effective, but protect the material for a while.

Means 1: Resin

Against the argument of mushrooms helps resin, heated before applying.

• effective
• safe
• cheap.

• The surface remains sticky.
• Resin damaging, applied difficult, you need to stretch.

Means 2: Silicate glue

A silicate glue diluted to the state of medium-sieves. They are treated with surfaces of wooden products, coatings 1-2 times.

This is a safe hypoallergenic composition. It has a short-term effect, not suitable for some types of mold.

Means 3: Potassium Bichromate, Sulfuric Acid

5% solution of potassium bichromate, 5% sulfuric acid concentrate is mixed in equal proportions.

The resulting solutions are processed by boards, adjacent to the structures of the soil. The method is effective, but dangerous for the soil.

Means 4: Vinegar and Soda

To get rid of the already existing focus, the place is sprinkled with soda, splashes by 9 or 6% acetic acid.

Means 5: Salt, Acid, Boiling

Prepare a solution of 5 l hot boiled water, 1 kg of table salt, 50 g of boric acid. Thoroughly mixed, treated wood.

Means 6: Copper Cap

Take 100 g of dry matter, diluted in 10 liters of water. The boards are processed with solution, then they are dried, used for construction.

Means 7: White

Chlorine bleach is well consider fungus, but it should be borne in mind that the liquid brightens wood.

In the baths, saunas it is possible to remove mushrooms only by folk remedies. To cure the struck plot, clean the boards of soda, poured with vinegar, are waiting for the end of the reaction. Then wash the reagents with water, cover the zone of tea tree oil, diluted in warm water.

Folk remedies are not always effective and safe. They are used when there are no special preparations at hand, and the problem needs to be solved quickly.

Modern formulations

Preparations are divided into 3 groups according to the method of applying and actions:

• paints with a shelled or translucent effect;

Paints, varnishes perform 2 functions: help remove mold, participate in the finish. Create a water-repellent coating that protects the tree for a long time.

Processing with antiseptics - the main way of struggle. Maybe superficial, deep:

• Surface treatment of boards is carried out in the house during construction or repair. Sometimes lumber suppliers provide the material that has already been processed in this way.
• Deep impregnation using the preservation method allows you to remove all disputes from the surface of the product and to the depth. The penetration of chemical compositions occurs in the conditions of the autoclave when changing temperatures.

Varieties of antiseptics

Synthetic agents against wood fungus differ in composition, effect effect:

To prevent the appearance, get rid of the fungus in the house, it is necessary to correctly select the composition of the antiseptic or protective coating. It is worth considering:

• humidity of the room;
• the presence of contact with the earth;
• air temperature;
• operating conditions of the product, surface.

The home climate is well tolerated by soluble or water-repellent solutions, in dry rooms you can restrict ourselves to paint coatings. For the street, you should choose more hard tools.

Conducting work

The appearance of the fungus on the tree can be prevented. Another option is to remove the already available mold.

Preliminary protection

To create a protective layer on a new product, in production or before construction, a wooden piece is covered with varnishes, paints, antiseptics. Application is carried out on a dry clean surface. Wait for drying. If necessary, repeat the operation. Apply:

• tassels,
• rollers
• sprayers.

Treatment of wood

To destroy the existing fungus, it is not necessary to dismantle the product. If the mold did not grow up, did not have time to spoil the structure of the wood, it is enough to hold a complex of medical work:

1. Clear the affected zone with a spatula, brush. At the same time, it is necessary to put on gloves.
2. Turn over the surface with the compositions of deep penetration or impregnate it with an antiseptic.
3. Apply the finish coating.

After using synthetic means, the defeat is not renewed. As a rule, chemicals kill all pests on the surface of the tree surface.

Despite the abundance of modern building materials, wood does not lose its popularity. From the tree build houses, baths, it is used to install various beam overlaps. But wooden surfaces have disadvantages - they are susceptible to rotting, and various tree-grazing insects are becoming. Properly performed impregnation for wood from moisture and rotting allows longer to preserve the natural material.

Why wood starts to rot

Renigation destroys the foundation of the tree, the disintegration products and traces of the life of microorganisms harmfully influence the human body, causing various diseases (most often the lungs - due to inhaling the argument of fungi and pepper particles entering the air).

But before selecting the composition for processing a tree, you need to find out the reasons for rotting. It may be:

1. The destructive impact of atmospheric phenomena. Under the influence of wind and temperature drops, the tree begins to disappear and crack, and the moisture falling into the cracks conducive to germination of the argument of fungi. The started destructive processes in the wood attract insects (mainly shaking bugs), and this additional factor contributes to a more rapid destruction of the wood structure. To protect the tree on the street, an antiseptic should be selected for outdoor work, which will protect against environmental impact and scare away.
2. Increased humidity and insufficient ventilation. In wet rooms (bath, bath, a cellar with a close adjacent of groundwater), the evaporation of moisture is slowed down, and if there is no sufficient ventilation, then water penetrates into the wood structure and is delayed there for a long time. The constant moisture of wood fibers creates favorable conditions for the development of fungus. A similar situation may occur in residential rooms at home, when due to insufficient heating in the cold time, moisture accumulates in the corners and a whitish mold fall appear.
3. Continuous contact with earth or water. In this case, there is direct contact with moisture and various microorganisms, which increases the risk of mold and fungi.

The composition of the antiseptic must be selected, taking into account the factors affecting the surface.

How can I protect the wood structure from destruction

There are several ways to protect the tree from moisture impact:

• waterproofing (water penetration to the wood surface is prevented);
• ensuring sufficient ventilation to remove moisture;
• protective impregnations with antiseptic.

Waterproofing and ventilation can not give 100% guarantee protection of material from fungal lesions and rot. Therefore, they are recommended to be used in addition to impregnation with an antiseptic, which may vary by such criteria:

1. Top of use. For external work, it is necessary to choose mixtures not only with increased moisture resistance, but also with resistance to temperature differences.
2. Toxicity. Some compositions with high protective qualities have increased toxicity, and they cannot be applied indoors. For external work, the toxicity does not have the value.
3. The nature of the active substance. Eliminate organic and inorganic. Organic serve for a longer time, possess high protective ability, but are dangerous for the human body.
4. The type of solvent. May be water or have another basis. Water is considered non-toxic. In the construction market in 2016, a wide range of water antiseptics with large protective qualities suitable for both internal and external work is presented.
5. The depth of penetration into the wood structure. Some solutions penetrate deeply, filling themselves the pores of wood and preventing moisture penetration, others create a waterproof film on the surface.
6. Term. Some formulations provide protection for 3-5 years, others, especially made by their own hands, are effectively short-term time (1-2 years).

The impregnations may contain only one antifungal antiseptic, but in most cases manufacturers offer comprehensive protection against rotting, insects, fungus and fire.

Varieties of impregnating solutions

Conditionally all protective compounds for the impregnation of wood can be divided into several groups.

Moisture-repellent

They have high fluidity and deeply penetrate the structure of the tree. Such antiseptics are recommended to be used in places with high humidity (bath, kitchen). Even the accumulation of water on the floor or walls does not affect the protective qualities of the composition. Water-repellent drugs are recommended to be used to handle sleepers, wooden pillars and other products that are directly in contact with earth or water.

Oil

Have a small penetration depth and form a thin durable film on the surface. The minus is high toxicity and the fact that the oil mixtures can be applied only on dry products.

Water soluble

Eco-friendly, comfortable in work and quickly dry out. Ideal for premises with moderate humidity. They can be processed not only wood, but also to Faneru, chipboard and other derivatives of wood.

Volatile

Made on the basis of varnishes or paints. In the structure of the tree, such antiseptics penetrate a shallow, but when drying, a thick durable film is formed on the surface. Well suited for outdoor or for finishing non-residential premises. Toxic and dry long.

In the market of paintwork products 2016, all these types are represented by different manufacturers in a wide range. Each wizard can choose a soaking agent with the features of the product used from the tree.

How to choose a suitable impregnation

When choosing a suitable antiseptic, you must consider the following parameters:

1. Action on fungus and mold. If the impregnating composition is purchased for prophylactic treatment, then it is enough to take the standard composition. In the case when "treatment" is required by a mushroom tree already damaged, it is recommended to choose a more active formula for active ingredients.
2. Impact on wood. Some mixtures not only destroy mold and insects, but also damage the structure of the tree (more often it consists in changing the color).
3. The degree of penetration. The deeper the solution in wood fibers penetrate, the more effective there will be protection.
4. Resistance to temperature differences. This parameter is important for external work.
5. Validity. The time during which the antiseptic mixture retains its ability to resist microorganisms.
6. The presence of smell. Even non-toxic composition with a sharp smell is not recommended to be used in a residential building - an unpleasant smell will create discomfort.
7. Safety. In places where people live or are pets, only non-toxic compositions need to be applied.
8. Consumption. Usually, depending on the viscosity of the mixture, it ranges from 100 to 400 g / sq. M.

Protective impregnations can be produced as an independent solution or enter primers, varnishes or pastes.

Home protective products

Despite the fact that manufacturers offer a lot of impregnating embodiments, some homemade masters prefer to make protection for a tree from fungus and rot them with their own hands. Most often for this purpose use:

1. Copper vigor. 100 g of dry matter is bred in 7-10 liters of water and used for external work. The fences and external surfaces of various buildings are treated by vitriol.
2. Worked oil. The oil merged with the machines and the oil served for the woods in contact with the ground (the wintices of the house, piles and the lower part of the pillars before entering into the ground).
3. Hot bitumen or tar. The cooler of the hot tar provides high protection of the tree from fungi and rot, well scares insects. Gudron is used in wooden cellars and in other auxiliary rooms with high humidity.
4. Slaked lime. Regular whirlpool allows you to create a hydroxide calcium film on the surface, which serves as an antiseptic and prevents the development of rot.
5. Salt and boric acid. 50 g of dry acid and 1 kg of salts are poured with 5 liters of boiling water. The solution is used after cooled.

How to treat wood

It does not matter what type of impregnation is used: a solution, primer composition or self-made mixture, to increase the efficiency of wood, it is necessary to pre-prepare:

1. Clean the surface from pollution and residues of the old cladding (if re-processing is performed).
2. Wash Washing increases the depth of impregnation. Small surfaces can be washed with a brush and cloth, and for large areas it is recommended to use a car wash (a machine for washing machines in which water is fed under pressure).
3. Dry. Some formulations can be applied to the wet basis, but most antiseptics are recommended only after drying wood.

After preparing the product, the mixture is recommended to be distributed as indicated by the manufacturer in the instructions. Liquid solutions can be sprayed using paint, and more viscous distributed on wood with a smooth layer using a roller or brush. When conducting protective work, professionals advise:

1. Use protective means. The impregnations are most toxic at the time of spraying, and it is recommended to work with them in a mask, safety glasses and gloves.
2. To accurately observe the specified time of drying, if further decorative decoration is planned. Application of primer or wallpaper glue on the wrong antiseptic will provoke its "wrapping", and protection will be uneven.
3. During the processing, even non-toxic compositions is recommended to remove pets and children from home. In addition, the children and animals can be more susceptible to the components of the impregnating drug, they can simply smear the wrong layer and disrupt the processing quality.
4. It is not worth it for increased protection to impose more layers than manufacturers recommend - protective qualities will not rise, there will be only an unnecessary consumption of material.

If the processing was carried out in all the rules, the antiseptic will reliably protect the wood throughout the manufacturer specified in the time instruction.

When you want to extend the service life, then you should not neglect the impregnation from rot and fungi, especially since the solutions are inexpensive. It is better to prevent the emergence of destroying the wood structure of pests in a timely manner than spending time and means for restoration.

Wood - common, easy to process and environmentally friendly material. It is used in different areas of construction: Baths and houses are taken from the tree and are used for inner and outer decoration. Also of wood create furniture and various products for the interior (from the frames for the photo and to the stairs).

Wood has a significant disadvantage: it is susceptible to rotting and tolerate humidity. With high humidity, a fungus quickly appears on the tree, it starts to rot, losing and their own kind, and their qualities. Let us consider in detail the reasons for such a phenomenon, as well as we will analyze the methods of protecting wood from rotting and mold.

The reasons for the rotting of wood and the appearance of mold

Of all building materials, it is the wood that is most susceptible to the formation of mold and rotting. The reasons are as follows:

1. Tree - natural, living material. It contains enough nutrients for full growth and reproduction of fungus.
2. Natural materials are capable of breathing well absorb moisture. From moisture, the tree begins to rot and turn mold.
3. Even a well-dried tree still contains about 20% of the humidity, which is enough to form mold. With proper processing, caring and maintenance of wooden structures, mold and rotting can not be afraid. But if the conditions are incorrect, then the fungus will definitely appear.
4. Do not install wooden structures in the ground. In this case, it is almost impossible to protect them from the penetration of moisture (if only on top of them additionally do not cover something).
5. This material is not suitable for rooms with high humidity and poor ventilation. If in such premises without a tree can not do (for example, in the baths), they need to properly care for them: to ventilate, dry, warmer.
6. The tree rotes in underground rooms if high-quality internal and outer waterproofing and insulation are not equipped in them. The reason is sharp drops of temperature and condensate formation.
7. The freezing of boards and logs also leads to increased humidity and, as a result, the formation of mold and rotting.

What is dangerous wood rotting?

In addition to the fact that the mold loves to live on wooden products, it is she who causes the greatest harm to them:

• aesthetic type of materials is lost;
• strength is lost;
• a form can change;
• the destruction of the product is accelerated.

In addition, the mold expanding indoors on the finishing materials causes irreparable harm to the health of people.

Where is the defense of wood from rotting and mold need first?

Wood protection from mold is always needed and everywhere. Especially if the room is supported:

• increased humidity;
• lack of sunlight;
• bad ventilation (insufficient fresh air, poorly working hood, scored Ventshacht) or its absence;
• direct contact with earth;
• sharp drops of temperatures.

The most attention to the protection of wooden structures should be reversed in the following premises:

1. If direct contact logs or earth boards are provided, it is necessary to ensure maximum protection against moisture. This is relevant for Sarai, chicken coopers.
2. It is often found on wooden racks and boxes. You can also often meet. In general, underground structures are the symbiosis of all the necessary conditions for the growth of colonies of mold mushrooms.
3. It often appears - with incorrect arrangement and care for it.
4. Also, the treatment of wooden products is needed in unheated premises: in the sheds, in the garages, in attics.

How to understand that the tree appeared on the tree and rot?

Rinse wood makes a specific smell. If entering the room, you heard a fascinated unpleasant smell of dampness - proceed to the search for an "enemy".

If the mold does not detect and not destroy immediately, the wooden products begin to darken, they appear a wet flare, on the view they become soft. If you explore all the wooden surfaces, you will find a black, white, green or blue colors (may be in the form of stains or fluff).

If the measures are not accepted on time, the rot is appearing in the wood, which is pretty quickly begins to destroy its structure.

Wood protection from rotting, mold and moisture: Methods of prevention

So that rot and mold did not hit wooden products and building materials, exist methods of its protection, as well as rules for storage and care:

1. Before using wood, it needs to be properly dried.
2. It is necessary to strictly follow the rules for storing wooden products.
3. Before using wood materials, they need to be treated with special compositions.
4. It is necessary to create conditions under which the mold will not be able to develop.

Below will analyze each item in more detail.

Drying wood

If you think about the use of wood as a construction or finishing material, you need to start with the simplest: correct drying. The smaller the moisture remains in the wood, the less it will be subject to rotting.

4 methods of drying wood are isolated:

1. Drying in vivo. For this board, the logs or bars are placed in a dry, warm and well-ventilated room, where the material dries in itself. This is the longest method: can take up to 1 year in time.
2. Forced drying. For this, hot air is used, constantly circulating indoors. This is an expensive way (the tree is dried in special chambers), but fast and efficient.
3. Parafining. To dry wood in this way, it is immersed in paraffin, and then put in the oven for several hours to produce firing.
4. Best in linen oil. This is an expensive way, applied to small wooden products. To do this, they are placed in Chan with butter and boil several hours.

Forced methods of drying, though expensive, but occupy much less time. In addition, when compulsory drying, the material is not deformed and not cracks (which can occur with natural drying).

How does the sawn timber dried? (video)

Compliance with Wood Storage Rules

When the material is dried, the following task occurs: proper storage. From compliance with the rules directly depends on the state of the wood and the degree of exposure to fungus and mold.

The main task when storing logs, bars, boards and other products - prevent the enhancement of their humidity in order to not look for answers to the question "Why does wood rot?". To do this, you need to follow the following rules:

1. The material should be stored exclusively in the above-ground hangars, ideally - under natural (sunny) light.
2. The room should be dry.
3. The circulation of air masses is necessary.
4. The tree should not directly contact the Earth. We need to lay materials on racks so that they do not pull moisture from the ground. Also, the airspace below improves the circulation of air indoors.
5. If there is no heating in the hangar, during the harsh temperature drops, it is necessary to conduct a periodic drying and heating to prevent condensate formation.

Sample storage of sawn timber (video)

Wood coating by antiseptics

To understand how to protect the tree from mold and rotting (how to impregnate it), you need to know where and in what purposes the product will be used. For internal works, one protective composition is used for external - the other.

It matters and the state of wood. One impregnation is used to protect the pure surface, the other is to disinfect materials already affected by fungus and rot.

The paint is used when you need not only to protect the material, but also give it a certain color to preserve the style of the interior. Water-soluble compositions are more suitable for internal works, for external - paints based on organic solvents.

The antiseptic fluid is used, as a rule, when the wood has already struck the mold, or it began to rotate. 4 species of antiseptic compositions are isolated:

1. Water soluble. This includes compositions with the basis of zinc chloride, boos, fluoride and boric acid. They dry quickly, do not smell, non-toxic. It is not desirable to use them in rooms with high humidity, since they do not possess water-repellent properties.
2. Water-repellent. Increase the durability of wood to moisture penetration. Used for baths, cellars, basements and other rooms with high humidity.
3. Antiseptics on organic solvents. These compositions can be used both for external and internal work. They create a dense protective film, drying up to 12 hours on the material.
4. Oil antiseptics. Form a thick protective water repellent film. Ideally protect wood in any, even the most extreme conditions. But, it is possible to apply this tool only on perfectly dried wood. If moisture is preserved in the material, the oil antiseptic will not allow it to go outside and create an ideal microclimate for rotting the tree from the inside.
5. Combined (most expensive). Used for any kinds of wood, for internal and external work. In addition to antiseptic properties, the fire protection is raised.

Antiseptic for wood is made by different companies. The following stamps have proven well:

• Senezhe;
• Neomide;
• Pinotex;
• Vikha.

In addition to modern compositions, there are folk remedies for the protection of wood and removing mold, which can be made with their own hands:

• resin;
• silicate glue;
• sodium biocromate;

Wood coating lacquer (video)

Creating conditions under which rotting and mold do not appear

In order not to remove the mold and deal with rotting, you need to create the right conditions for wooden building materials:

1. Hydro- and thermal insulation of wooden surfaces that are outside (on the street), or are located underground. This will protect the material from temperature drops, condensate formation, freezing and absorption of moisture from the soil.
2. If we are talking about the interior decoration made of wood, the room should be ventilation, which provides permanent air circulation. In addition, it is necessary to ensure that sunlight getting and warming up the room.

Even observing all the rules of content, it is impossible to be 100% confident that the fungus will not appear. Therefore, it is necessary to periodically check the condition of the wood. Especially carefully you need to inspect the angles and sites where the moisture can fall and where the sunlight does not penetrate.

The debate of building materials and wood products is easier to prevent than to engage in the restoration of already spoiled products. Of all the funds offered, it is important to choose what the wood from rotting can with the maximum effect.

Wood rotting is easier to prevent than then restore.

How to prevent wood decomposition

The most popular methods are the application of protective and antiseptic compositions. After selecting the method and means in order to treat wood from rotting, the following tools will be required:

Application of the antiseptic composition is performed by a pulverizer.

1. Roller or tassel.
2. Capacity with mortar for immersion of small wooden parts.
3. Spray.
4. Hacksaw or scraper.

The main pest of wood is the mold with which the process of decomposition of building materials begins.

Therefore, it is necessary to be aware of where this evil is taken from, as it applies and familiarize himself with the measures of its extermination.

Fertile medium for the emergence of processes of rotting:

• free air access;
• humidity of the surrounding space from 80 to 100%;
• plus temperature 0-50 ° C;
• humidity of building materials from a tree from 15% to 20%.

It is possible to prevent wood decomposition in the process of manufacturing and storing materials for the production of structural elements of construction. Since freshwater has a humidity from 60% to 80%, it simply needs to be dried by a natural way, that is, give it to be seen at least a year.

Ready wooden structures are also subject to negative natural impact, this is:

Wood drying in a natural way can prevent rotting.

• insufficient ventilation;
• temperature difference;
• excess humidity;
• freezing;
• condensate.

All this must be warned by the following measures:

• device of a moistureproof roof;
• applying a protective layer of paint or varnish;
• ensuring the necessary waterproofing;
• the placement of the heat insulating layer is closer to the cold (outer), and the layer of vapor insulation near the warm (internal) surface.

Wooden walls can be seen by boards and save them from rotting. Here more attention should be paid to end cut, as they form the weakest places.

All wooden elements of building structures need an annual spring inspection. This will help identify the signs of damage in the early stages, such as the deterioration of the appearance, deformation and unpleasant odor.

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Two ways to get rid of fungus

The antiseptic is applied with a brush.

Renigation strongly reduces the density and hardness of wood, which is reflected in the ability of wooden elements to cope with their carrier function. If, for example, the putrefactive sections appeared on the bold crowns, and at the same time the window openings have twisted either there have occurred the walls, then this means that the crowns need to be changed or eliminated the foci of rotting.

It all depends on how large the degree of damage and the propagation sections of the rotational bacteria are. You can spend localization, that is, remove the finishing material and remove the damaged wood with a scraper, brush or hacksaw, and then process the affected area by an antiseptic.

In everyday life, in two ways to disinfect:

1. Surface method - applying a special substance by sprayer.
2. Diffusion reception - coating of antiseptic paste. It includes glue, antiseptic and additional substance.

Bitumen paste:

Forms from fungus can be in the form of liquids or paste.

• green oil;
• peat powder;
• petroleum product;
• sodium fluoride.

Silicate paste:

• sodium silicate;
• tar;
• fluorosilicates.

Extracts are found on the basis of sodium fluoride. The disinfection process occurs during the increase in wood humidity by more than 40%. At that moment, the substance actively penetrates the inside of the product, and the diffuse process stops when the humidity decreases.

To prevent infection of unspoiled wooden building materials, potassium bichromate (5%) based on sulfuric acid (5%) is used. They apply it both on wood and on the surrounding soil up to 0.5 m depths. Potassium aqueous dichromat is an effective means for processing beams.

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Wood processing from rotting

When applying stronger disinfection techniques, it is necessary to remember that the higher their biocidal properties, the more significant the malicious effect on human health.

The antiseptic means "woody tek" will help if the infection has already happened.

But modern science does not stand still, and in chemical laboratories, universal antiseptic substances were obtained with a relatively harmless effect. Such means are prepared on the basis of high molecular compounds, and they are able to maintain strength and density of wood for a long time, not allowing rotting and mold. This ability is based on a polymer basis, which prevents the washing of protective drugs for tens of years. The destruction of the harmful organisms at the same time is due to the content of tin, chromium and such an element as zinc.

An excellent drug to prevent biological destruction of wood is "Bicidol", it is harmless to health. In the event that the color of the tree does not matter, you can use "bicidol-100", since after its use, the wood acquires a greenish tint. Treat tree from rotting and keep the natural color of the product can be "Bicidol-200". Divorced in Olife, it performs both protective and antiseptic effect.

Pinotex will help protect the tree from rotting.

The preparation of Finnish production "Pinotex" has a domestic analog called "Vuprtek". With it, you can protect the tree from rotting and give it many shades. But it is only suitable for completely clean material, without any traces of mold.

If the damage to the fungus has already happened, it is possible to treat the wood for a tree (antiseptic means "woody tek"). There is it in several options:

• DL-1 - for fresh and clean wood, protects against rot, mold, bugs;
• DL-2 - destroys malicious organisms and protects wood from rotting;
• DL-3 is the strongest antiseptic, stops the decay of wood and expels insects.

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Why not handle wood with disinfecting agents

There are certain construction indicators developed by German specialists who indicate the conditions for refusing to apply biocidal funds.

These conditions include:

• wide Svea Roof;
• sufficient ventilation of the basement.

In addition, all the kernel types of wood are distributed by groups:

1. The most wear-resistant.
2. Wear-resistant.
3. Average wear-resistant.
4. A weak resistant.
5. Unstable.

The following breeds are used in Russian construction:

• 1st grade - rowan, tick (can be used without processing for pillars intended for concreting and instillation);
• 2nd class - cedar, oak (bypassing processing, goes to the construction of structures subject to natural impacts - stairs, balconies, etc.);
• 3rd grade - larch, pine (used in sections with moisture, without contact with the soil - windows, doors, stairs);
• 4th grade - beech, fir, spruce (without processing chemicals suitable for the construction of inner dry structures).

But it is not always possible to do without chemistry when working with wood is not always possible, since it means to protect it from rotting.

In Russia, wood at all times was valuable building material, which has many advantages:

• good processing and finishing;
• high density and strength;
• good sound insulation qualities;
• durability;
• ensuring a constant temperature regime in the room;
• light fasteners and a combination of parts of wood (by gluing, connecting screws and nails).

According to sanitary and hygienic requirements, the most comfortable chopped and broken walls from the breeds of coniferous trees, besides, coniferous rocks are usually the right form and are less susceptible to rot.

The main parameters providing wood durability:

• durability; density;
• high resistance to cracking;
• high loading resistance;
• low bitch;
• wear resistance.

The strength of wood fibers and wood depends on the tree of wood, its humidity, density, the presence of defects. There are free and associated wood moisture. Free humidity very quickly and easily evaporates, associated humidity, on the contrary, evaporates from the wood very slowly - it will take several years to dry this tree without the use of some technologies.

The greater the number of bound moisture, the less the strength of wood becomes. When drying wood, moisture first evaporates from its outer layers, gradually getting to the inner layers. Because of this, there is internally tension in the wood, and cracks appear.

Wood classification by drying method:

1. Low-breathing: fir, spruce, cedar, pine, white poplar, etc.
2. Middle-drying: Elm, oak, beech, ash, aspen, black poplar, linden mellite, etc.
3. Susty drying: Grab, Maple Ostrogenous, Birch, Larch.

Humidity and density of wood provide such qualities as:

• increase the ability to keep metal mounts;
• eliminate clogging of nails.

Classification of wood species according to the degree of hardness:

1. Solid: beech, birch, elm, larch, ilm, ash, maple, karagach, apple tree.
2. Very solid: Dogwood, Grab, Samshat, Birch, White Acacia.
3. Soft: cedar, spruce, ox, pine, fir, alder, linden, poplar.

Under what conditions does wood rot?

Often the increased humidity of the medium, the temperature of the temperature regime (freezing and thawing), the active sun and wind erosion leads to the moistening of structures, even from the hardest tree of trees, resulting in fungal diseases and wood destruction.

Wood external surfaces of the designs (window frames) and the one, which in contact with the soil (the lower crowns of the house, cellar, underground) is susceptible to the greatest. Internal wooden elements and carpentry and carpentry are also subject to the drops of humidity and temperature regimen in the room.

With the winding of the wood fought at all times: earlier the logs were harvested only in the fall, then they were dried under sheds until spring, proceeded in summer.

Constructive protection of wooden elements from rotting

Currently, constructive measures are taken:

• wooden designs are isolated from soil, metal, concrete and stone;
• protect them from atmospheric precipitation;
• compare special ventilation.

All home supporting houses must be completely open, well ventilated and have access to their periodic check for the presence of diseases or insects.

Required reliable waterproofing of all wooden structures and parts that come into contact with the soil, concrete, foundation, metal parts and stone masonry. (Cm. )

In order to completely eliminate the formation of condensate, all wooden elements should not be located in the temperature change zone. They cannot be placed in the intermediate zone, it is necessary to stir in the zone of heated room or outside, outside it. Fencing wetty wooden structures need to be equipped with additional ventilation. From outside water (snow or oblique rain) Wooden walls will protect a wide Sve or crowded wider cornice.

But these measures are still not enough to protect wood from moisture and posting, drastic measures are needed: the impregnation of wood with the help of antiseptics and antipiers.

Wood processing with antipiers and antiseptics

Currently, the most significant protection of wood from various diseases, including rotting - processing it with antiseptics (chemicals).

Choosing an antiseptic, the consumer must know the main useful features:

• high toxicity in relation to mushrooms;
• high resistance;
• good permeability in wood;
• no unpleasant odor;
• absolute harmlessness for people and animals;
• should not worsen wood quality;
• it should not cause corrosion of fasteners and compounds of metal elements.

Main types of wood antiseptics

Wood antiseptics are divided into:

• water-soluble;
• organic solve;
• oil;
• antiseptic pastes.

Water-soluble wood antiseptics

Wood impregnation with water-soluble antiseptics protects it from moisturizing and flushing with water. These antiseptics include:

1. Sodium fluoride - white powder, does not smell, it is a strong antiseptic. It easily penetrates wood and is also easily washed with water. Sodium fluoride does not reduce the strength of the wood and does not paint it, and also does not cause corrosion of compounds from the metal. Interacting with chalk, lime, plaster and cement, sodium fluoride forms calcium fluoride (toxicly soluble substance). For the antiseptation of public, residential and industrial buildings, products from sawdust, chips, wood, peat and reeds Apply Sodium fluoride solution 3-4% concentration
2. Sodium siliconfluoride - white or light gray powder. For more efficient impact on wood, sodium siliconfluoride is used with sodium fluoride and soda calcined. According to sodium siliconfluoride, sodium with fluoride.
3. Ammonium siliconfluoride is a white powder, there is no smell. Apply aqueous 5-10% solutions, they are colorless and easily washed out. Ammonium siliconfluoride does not lower the strength of the wood, does not stain it, causes weak corrosion of compounds from the metal and provides wood fire resistance. Often to control the application of a colorless solution of ammonium siliconfluoride, dye adds to it.
4. The preparation of BBK-3 is a solution of boric acid and borax. BBK-3 has good solubility. For people, almost harmless.
5. The drug CHCC is a mixture of sodium or potassium chromium and zinc chloride. Apply a solution of 3-5% concentration. The drug has good solubility, but causes corrosion of compounds from ferrous metal and stains in yellow-green wood. This is a toxic substance.
6. The MHCC preparation is a mixture of chromubic, copper sulfate and zinc chloride. The drug is soluble well, causes corrosion of compounds from ferrous metals and stains wood in green-yellow color. Apply 3-5% solution. The drug is toxic.
7. The GR-48 preparation is a solution of pentachlorophenol, there is no smell, a well-soluble in water. Its 1-5% solution is used to protect wood (mainly sawn timber) from mold and blue.

Organic antiseptics for wood

Preparations of type PL - solutions in lung pentachlorophenol petroleum products, they have high permeability in wood fibers. Very toxic. They are used when it is necessary to introduce hard-made antiseptics in the wood that do not require drying products or wood structures. These drugs are used to enhance the toxicity of oil antiseptics.

NML type preparations - solutions in the lightweight naphthenate copper oil products. These are highly toxic substances. They easily penetrate the pores of wood and paint it into green, and also prevent the possibilities for its gluing. For their dissolution, fuel oil, green oil, solvent adapt and kerosene are used.

Oil wood antiseptics

These include:

• coal oil;
• shale oil;
• anthracene oil, etc.

All these fluids have the most powerful antiseptic properties. They have a dark brown and sharp smell, do not wash out with water, do not corrosive metal, wood is painted in a dark brown color. They are usually used for wooden structures that are exposed to atmospheric moisture, soil or water for deeper processing and impregnation. Such oils are treated with sleepers, piles, parts of bridges, structures under water.

Antiseptic wood paste

Antiseptic pastes in its composition have water-soluble antiseptics (for example, siliconfluoride or sodium fluoride), ligament substances (clay, liquid glass, bitumen) and filler (peat powder). Antiseptic pastes process elements of buildings that are moistened in the course of operation - for example, poles and ends of beams. After processing elements of open structures of antiseptic paste, they must be additionally protected by waterproofing.

In order to protect wooden products and building structures from moisture exposure, they are processed in different ways:

• processing surface with antiseptics;
• sequential impregnation in cold and hot baths;
• coating with antiseptic pastes;
• impregnated in high-pressure autoclaves.

The method of wood processing is chosen depending on its purpose and humidity. The depth of impregnation directly depends on the structure of the wood and on the processing method.

Healthy wood is very often treated with a 5% potassium bichromate solution in sulfuric acid solution (5%). Sodium bichromate aqueous solution is very effective for impregnation of the lower crowns and beams of the building.

Funds for impregnation of wood in the Russian market

Today on the Russian market there are a lot of effective means to prevent and combat fungal diseases of the tree. They are divided into:

1. Biopirts are funds to protect against biological protection. These include Sezhenzbio.
2. Antipitute antiseptics - protect against biological damage and warn the occurrence of rot. This is: "Pinotex", VIM-1, "Anti-Biocor-C", "Pyrolax", "Kram", "Biodecor", "Bioteteek", "Biosept", "Novoteks", "Tackotex", "Biokron", "Aktoks "," Quintedol "," Vak-48D "and a mixture of" Akvabor ". Finnish brand "Pinotex" - the widest: primer Pinotex Base, an aqueous antiseptic for all types of work (internal and outer) Pinotex AQVA Plus, antiseptic for wood Pinotex Classic (based on alkaloid binder).
3. Polymeric preparations - provide wood long protective effect, protect it from biological damage (blue and mold and rotting). These tools are completely harmless to human health. Their polymeric base contributes to long-term processing of wood. Their composition has zinc salts, chromium and tin, which protect the wood from the development of microorganisms. These drugs include drugs of the Russian manufacturer: "Bicidol", "Bicidol 100", "Bicidol 200", "Vuprtek". It should be borne in mind that "Bicidol 100" can paint the wood into a green color. "Vuprtek" is a wonderful antiseptic, is an analogue of Finnish Pinotex, but cheaper, he also stains wood.
4. Biocidal compositions "Woody tech" (dL) on the market are represented by three modifications:

DL-1 - to process wooden products or fresh non-painted wood from the appearance of mold;

DL-2 - destroys the already emerged colony of microorganisms and protects against their appearance in the future;

DL-3 - a new generation, the most powerful bioseptic. It stops the process of rotting from wood and scares different insects: koroedov, bugs-tree-bugs.