Most recently, corrosion tried to get rid of, and now it became mainstream. How did the rusty style of cars appear and why did it become so interesting to motorists?

In the field of automotive tuning, special paint is gaining popularity, made under rzavchin. You can achieve a corrosive in two methods: imitation and iron rushing, which is not very good to appear in the state of transport and its reliability. There are a variety of paints, special imitating films, rusting pattern methods with their own hands and much more to make the original tuning and decor of the machine.

According to the correct, this style of tuning is called Rat Look, which means "rat". This design of the design originated in the near 1980s in California, but received a massive publicity only in the last five years.

The surface of the car specially "masked" and make rusty, faded and "tired", imitating the old car from the landfill. But under the hood, a powerful engine is usually worth it, which will surprise other road users with inconsistency in appearance.

The concept of the style of Rat Look lies in deceptiveness, as well as in some protest Glamor and smartness. The motorist deliberately makes through holes on the car, cleans the body to metal, glue a special film, etc., which is best suited for this style.

This direction of tuning is for you, if you want to stand out from a monotonous flow of cars, or surprise other motorists on the road.

Paint with rust effect

Sometimes car staining is replaced with natural rust or placed film. After reading the history of the Rat Look movement, the question is brewing, but what is the rusty paint, which paint metals? The main component that gives the liquid paint the rust effect is a pigment. The peculiarity of the pigment is that it is more oil and dense in color in comparison with paint. It is often mixed with red, brown and yellow colors, and sometimes the blue are added to the depth of the shade.

OCC is a natural pigment that is added to the paint to achieve the desired shade. This natural resource is a mixture of iron oxide hydrate with clay. Features Osar:

• Resistant to aggressive chemical liquids and reagents;
• Resistant to organic solvents, acids, and alkalis;
• Less susceptible to environmental factors, including water;
• Harry painted area flashes much slower than paint.

The process of preparation of metal and paint applies with the effect of corrosion gathering with conventional paintwork. It is worth remembering that people resort to choking to get a rusty effect and not spoil the body of the car. Painting is also expected to be responsible in order to achieve a beautiful result.

Imitation Rzavchina

To date, there are several ways to artificially make corrosion on the body and one of them is imitation of rust with acrylic paints. To do this, you will need paint on an acrylic basis Viva Decor or another similar, as well as ground. It takes a bit of primer and stirred with paint. The resulting mixture is applied by a chaotic pattern to the surface.

With the help of various primary means, paint smears, scratched with a large sandpaper and rubs off until a color imitating rust with the corresponding texture. There are many different techniques and methods for this type of staining, which differ not only by the method of execution, but also materials.

There are several ways, in addition to paints and pigments, speed up the formation of corrosive spots naturally. Consider a few of them.

Acid and copper solution:

1. We pour about 60 milliliters of hydrochloric acid into the container and put any copper product there;
2. Cover (do not close) capacitance with a lid, leaving the holes for the waste of gases, which are formed during the chemical reaction of acid for copper;
3. We leave the capacitance to be approximately 6-7 days;
4. About a week later, you will have a concentrated solution of copper and acid, which accelerates the process of metal corrosion. We take the copper object from the container, and the solution is added to the water in the ratio of approximately 50: 1. All described works are carried out, usually, in protective gloves to comply with safety;
5. The future zone of car coating is thoroughly wash with soap solution and clean the desired part of the body from paint traces;
6. Tassel or spray we appline the composition to the surface of the product and leave this case until completely drying.

Approximately after a half hours there will be a noticeable rust patina. If this is not enough for you, you can repeat the procedure.

There is a way to accelerate the rust process with hydrogen peroxide.

1. Packing concentrate is taken and applied to the metal surface;
2. While the body is not yet dry from the solution, we take the table salt and sprinkle the sprayed part of the body. The future rusty effect depends on the amount of salt. It is advisable to cover the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe middle uniform layer of the table salt;
3. Roll into the car on fresh air and leave until the moment of complete drying. It is important not to touch your hands the surface of the car until the moment of complete dryness, in order to avoid uneven rusting of the metal.

There are still many people's ways, but the two described above are the most popular.

Film

If you wish to try out the Rat Look style on your car, but do not want to spoil the body of natural rust, then there is a film with the effect of corrosion specifically for you. It is important to understand that the development of stickers should be carried out individually for your car to repeat all the deepening and bends of the body.

To achieve an amazing level of realism of the appearance of their prefabricated models, modelists resort to tint, that is, to various methods of staining certain areas or a whole model. For toning, mostly uses the most different paints and pigments, as well as dry pastel.

In order to understand how to tint the team model, it is necessary first of all to study the peculiarities of the use of its prototype and find out what weather turmoil he was subjected and even for what the soil moved.

What are the methods of tinting the model?

There are a huge amount of tinting. We will focus on the most popular of them.

Blending (From the word Blend - mix) - the method of tinting, in which the effect of the smooth transition of one shade is achieved into the other without clear boundaries. Mixing is carried out with water or special diluents. This method is considered quite complicated requiring certain experience.

Color modulations- The method of obtaining deep and realistic shades. To achieve such an effect, special sets of paints are used. The model is painted with maximum attention to detail, all the nuances are thought out - and as the shadow should lie, and where they are glare, and how best to arrange accents. Thus, the model really looks volumetric and realistic. After the color of the color model is fixed using glossy or matte varnishes. If necessary, toning can be continued using other methods.

Dry Brushing.(dry brush) - technique used to simulate various defects, chipping and natural sweepers on the model team. Coloring is carried out using almost completely dry brush. First, it is necessary to dip a brush into the necessary paint, after which it is carefully wiped out her about a napkin, getting rid of surplus paint. When painting this method, the main thing is not to overdo it. If the paints on the brush turned out to be too small, then you can always try again, but if it turned out a lot - the model may have to be completely repainted.

Highlightning - The method of tinting, in which you visually allocate certain elements of the model, "highlighting" their light colors. Light needed parts smoothly, without clear boundaries between different colors.

RUST ALL - imitation rust on the surface of the team model. Created using special fluid RUST ALL, which gave the name to this method. The kit itself includes the liquid - "rust", liquid - "bow", a matte varnish and a dust simulator. This method allows you to visually form the team model and is generally sufficient interesting technique that gives realistic models. The difficulty consists only in reaching the set itself for creating rust - as a rule, it is sold in a sufficient limited number of stores.

Frosting - Technique used to blur the boundaries between different shades, shadows and lights. With its help, the contrast between different colors is smoothed, and the colors are muted. In order to do this, dilute the paint with a very large amount of water (approximately in a ratio of 1 to 6) and apply it with a thin layer on the base layer. The resulting translucent shade will soften the transitions between colors.

Washing. (Wearing) in some way looks like glazing, some even confuse these two techniques. Wearing - the base color coating by other, transparent shades so that the base color is only slightly overtaken through the next. With the help of the camps, you can change the color or create the effect of shadows and reflections.

Under the concept of "woo" is also understood to wash the paint, thereby creating the impression of the realism and volume of the team model. With the help of a warrding, you can visually emphasize any part, element and seam. There are various methods of the military. The overall, point and soft wars are the most popular among model professions, they are almost indispensable when tinting large-scale models. And the hurry is used when creating a camouflage effect.

Masking with salt- A method that allows you to mimic the encouraged paint on the model using an ordinary salt that replaces more expensive means. A salt solution is applied to the painted model in the required places. After drying it on its surface, paint is applied, after which it is necessary to remove the salt with a soft cloth or a napkin model. The processed area will turn out the effect of encouraged paint.

Preshading - Toning technique, which consists in applying to the team model of dark lines of paint to the main dyeing. Brown and black tones are applied in those places where the existence of the shade is assumed. After staining with the main color, these lines will be slightly coming through it. To create such an effect, it is best to use acrylic paints, since the enamel is characterized by a more dense structure.

Post Shot Differs from pregging a sequence of actions. In postgrade, as follows from the name, dark lines are applied to the model after its complete staining. The effect of the shade is created using a special gray varnish in a small concentration, due to which the translucent effect is obtained. Post Shot has a rather high level of difficulty. The errors allowed with it are much more difficult to correct than when weighing. However, the result obtained is definitely worth their efforts - tinted with post-haul modes look very realistic and professionally.

Imitation of traces of rain Allows you to create the effect of the surface affected by atmospheric precipitation. A thin layer of special paint is applied to the painted model using an airbrush. Then you need to take a round soft brush and apply a very diluted paint to the surface of the model by vertical lines. After drying, this step must be repeated by adding new lines over some old. Thus, on the surface of the model there will be a series of lines of different thickness and transparency. If you are satisfied with the result, you only need to cover it with a special paint, sprayed from the airbrush. This technique requires experience, and there is nothing terrible in the fact that the effect you need will not be attempting.

There are many toning methods. Professional models are trying to combine several of them when working on large-scale models and achieve an amazing level of realism, depth and volume in the appearance of models. Their prefabricated tanks actually really visited battles, they managed to be covered not only by dust and mud, but also dents and scratches.

In order to master this or that technique, practice is needed, and the more often you will try to create the effect you need, the better it will be with you. And then your models will also look like real miniature copies of their prototypes.

Recently, the rusty color has become increasingly popular. You can achieve this coloring one of two ways: imitate rust or rust metal naturally. About how to make rust in various ways, will be discussed below.

Natural rust

This article does not take into account the natural rust of the metal, which gradually occurs with it under the action of the environment. You can accelerate the appearance of natural rust by a chemical reaction that will cause corrosion of the metal.

First of all, you need to make sure that the metal you want to rust is subject to corrosion. Metals are susceptible to rust. However, many materials are resistant to the appearance of rust, for example, stainless steel or chrome alloys. Corrosive forged iron and cast iron are well.

Copper-acid

Instruction:

A solution of vinegar and bleach

This technique is best suited for iron or tin-based metals. Mandatory condition: the surface should not be trusted or coated with a sealant.

Instruction:

1. Stir into the container a part of the vinegar with two parts of the chlorine lime.
2. We place the metal in the container so that it is completely immersed. We are waiting for about half an hour. After this period, the rust appears on the surface.
3. We wipe the material with a rag.
4. While the subject does not dry completely, direct contacts with it should be avoided so as not to damage the skin chloro.
5. Fix rust with primer. The easiest way to apply the primer composition in the aerosol canopy.

other methods

Above lists the most common methods of accelerating corrosion processes. However, there are other ways.

Rusting with hydrogen peroxide and salt:

1. Pour the peroxide into the container. It is advisable to use a bottle with a sprayer, since this way is easiest to apply liquid to the material.
2. Spray metal well.
3. Sprinkle the wet surface of salt. Metal will start rust almost immediately. Rusting intensity depends on the amount of salt.
4. Let's dry the metal outdoors. The surface cannot be wiped out to dry it, otherwise the rust will be very uneven. Wipe the surface can only after its complete drying.

Rust with hydrogen peroxide and vinegar:

1. We clean the surface (if necessary).
2. Spray peroxide on the surface of the sprayer.
3. Spray vinegar for metal.
4. We are waiting for several hours until the rust appears.

Rust with lemon juice and salt:

1. Mix 4 parts of lemon juice with 1 part of the cook salt.
2. We process the solid surface. Soon there will be traces of rust.

In order to obtain the effect of rust optionally spoil the material. You can simulate rust. Moreover, it is possible to give a rusted form, both metal and other materials, in particular wood.

Paint under rzavchin

Rusty shade is formed by mixing red, yellow and brown pigments. You can also add a little blue - this will allow you to make the coating of brightness and depth.

There is a natural pigment that without any opportunity to get a rusty shade. This pigment is called (another name - Surik Iron), which is a mixture of clay and hydrate of iron oxide.

Natural ocher is not an independent species of paints. This is only a component that in one or another quantity is added to paint materials (paints, enamel) and primer. In addition to this component, there are other substances in the colors.

Pigment is distinguished by the following characteristics:

• shelterness - from 60 to 80 grams per square meter;
• oil resistance - from 25 to 35 grams per 100 grams of substance;
• PH of the water exhaust - from 7 to 8.

OCC is characterized by resistance to aggressive chemicals (organic solvents, acids, alkalis), as well as resistance to light and humidity.

Imitating film

Metal rusty species can be used using a special film. Below is the instruction on it:

1. Degrease the surface with alcohol.
2. We try the elements of the film to the surface.
3. Moisten the metal from a special pulverizer. To the wet surface, the film will stick better.
4. We tear the film from the substrate.
5. We first glit the middle part of the web, and then recall the edges on the surface.
6. Enclosed with a hair dryer.

Rust effect on wooden furniture

The imitation of rust can be carried out not only on the metal, but also on the tree.

Necessary materials:

• paint (2 types);
• salt;
• sandpaper;

One of the paints should have a color, as much as possible with rust. The second paint acts as the main one, it should be suitable for furniture and other accommodation accessories.

Before applying the paint of rusty color, we clean the surface of the wood from all defects. You can also palate a tree. Next, paint furniture with paint under rust and wait until the surface lights up slightly. Another low surface is applied by a layer of table salt.

When the surface with a salt applied to it dries, we apply the main paint. We wait for the drying of the surface. After that, we remove the salt fine-grained sandpaper. If you cannot remove the whole salt, the effect of light roughness is formed, which stronger will emphasize rusty color. The last step is to process the tree with a protective layer of varnish.

Rust effect will give any product a completely unique, unique look. And you can do it all with your own hands. The main thing in the process of work is to comply with the technological process and adhere to protective measures, since in many cases will have to work with unsafe chemicals.

From the editor Ruscmd: again, the translation of the most interesting lesson on the imitation of rust. The author, UltraWerke, from the Canary Islands (Spain), is divided by the skills of corrosion coating. The lesson feature is the minimum time spent, four different options depending on the type of rust (light corrosion, long-unclean technique, strong corrosion, and also deeply entered in a few years of RJ). The author specifically decided to repel from the simplest conditions - he did not use the airbrush in principle, used affordable chemistry, and described in detail about possible errors in the work. We express my gratitude to the modelist Ultrawerke for an excellent lesson, live text and cute photos!
This time we will tell about the effect of rust on large-scale models. We offer to get acquainted with the technique of imitation rust with the use of pigments and some oil paints.

Rust is an important part of the model created with the taking into account the weather conditions, but, as in the case of other weather techniques, you can easily rearrange. When applying this effect, you should always be very careful and neat, work with understanding the causes of the emergence and development of corrosion, under what conditions it occurs. And you should always check the compliance with the standard.

In real conditions, the rust appears as a result of the reaction of the metal elements of the machine (for example) with oxygen. This reaction is amplified when exposed to water (especially salty) or with high humidity. It should be borne in mind that the car thrown on the coast will be corrosion differently than the car warring in the desert. The use of this weather technology should always correspond to the conditions of the environment where the presence of this car is meant.

We will try to briefly simulate four types of rust. In our examples, corrosion causing will be very fast and easy, so the resulting results exceeded. But the purpose of the lesson is to get acquainted with some simple techniques that give good rust with minimal efforts.

Moderate rust over the painted surface. On the paint will appear small rusty marks. This happens when water falls into the scratch, as a result of which rust begins to manifest.

Serious rust over the painted surface. Rust marks were unhindered for some time, as a result, something like recesses and funnels appeared on the surface of the paint. This type of corrosion is characteristic of machines left unattended under very wet conditions (or for the equipment owned by the army without order, of course ...).

Rusted metal.Golden metal surface with serious rust bent.

Extremely rusty surface. This happens only if the car rust under the open air with a very high humidity (let's say on the swamp or coast).

Enough the theory at the moment! Let's work.

A rubber blank turned up at hand, which is well suited to our goals:

I climbed the surface with gray colors from Vallejo and divided it into four areas. Since we are doing a truly fast color, we will do without an airbrush. To paint dried quickly, I use a hairdryer.

For effects 2 and 4, it will take some texture base, so I prepared a slightly diluted PVA glue.

I will apply it on top of region No. 4.

And then a little bicarbonate sucks over this surface, cleaning its surplus.

I also nano PVA glue in area number 2, where we need "crater" rust, penetrating paint. In these recesses, I fall asleep more bicarbonate.

Now go to painting. Let's start with corrosive funnels in Area No. 2, cover the entire region No. 3 and No. 4. In these cases, the paint of dark rust is useful. In our example, I use the product Vallejo Panzer Aces 302 "Dark Rust" (Dark Rust). As soon as it dries, the primer will be ready.

Now I protect the foci of rust with a wet mask. I used Vallejo Liquid Mask for this, but you can apply Maskol or any similar product.

It is better to apply a mask to the toothpick, because this product literally sticks to the brush, which turns them into useless. I also impose everywhere for several drops of a moisturizing mask for further imitation of erosion.

Now we use paint coverage. I mixed acrylic paint and glossy varnish in proportion to 50 to 50. For our example, I used the transparent Tamiya X 22 paint, as well as yellow-brown XF 55.

Why do you need a glossy varnish? It is better grabbing paint after it dries, and simultaneously gives the surface gloss, which is ideal for further imitation of atmospheric effects. The only drawback is that the paint will cover a smaller area, but, since we usually use an airbrush to apply it, it's not so important. We also need a denser the upper layer to cover the funnels on the area 2.

Since in the given example, we do not use an airbrush, then I fell a thin layer of paint, dried with a hairdryer. At the same time, an unexpected and interesting effect manifested itself: when a mixture of paint and varnish dried in a forced pace, then it expanded some scratches (exposing the primer and texture). This effect is perfect for our goals! Although it should be with this very careful when working with a plastic model - plastic can literally melted!

Now it is carefully removed by a layer of a wet mask using a cutting tool and tweezers. Do not worry if parts of a wet mask remain on the edges - it is such an effect that we achieve.

The result is in front of you.

We will proceed to work on a bare metal in the area number 3. For this, the print of the pencil should be molded over the primer and polish graphite finger. You can also add a little silver, but there is no serious necessity.

Now we will deal with old good pigments. I prefer MIG products for many reasons. The right colors, bubbles of a small volume (to spend them during normal use, are needed years), and the price / quality ratio is the best on the market.

MIG now produces three types of liquids to imitate corrosion (as well as copper rust Rust), but others can be used to achieve the desired shade. Usually I use the "old rust" P 230 (Old Rust), "Ordinary Rust" P 025 (Standard Rust), "Light Rust" P 024 (Light Rust), "Dark clay" P 033 (Dark Mud), and also " Vietnamese Soil "P 031 (Vietnam Earth). However, you can play with other shades ... You never know what it will work out: what if something new and interesting, as it was in the case of paint and hairdryer.

We use a wash, mixing it from the turpidar without odor (Talens 089) and a bit of "dark rust" P 230. Instead of a turpidar, you can mix alcohol, but since I do not assume to give a mixture dry overnight, I use everything that can save us At least a couple of seconds. Therefore, in our example it is better to limit ourselves to the use of turpidar.

I apply a bow on the rusted surface, diluting it even more to obtain an uneven glaze covering around the painted zones.

We will give the surface to dry and repeat the procedure using the "ordinary rust" P 025, asking the surface again. Then I will apply a "light rust" P 024. With each step, I diluted the wash slightly more. The photo shows the result after this stage and final drying.

Now take some dark-brown oil paint (Dark Umber). I apply in the work of oil paints of Van Gogh, but you can use any other brand. Do not replace the oil paint on acrylic or gouache. Water based mixtures do not interact too well with White Spirit, which we are going to use. Also, water does not give the desired surface tension to create the effects of interest to us (as soon as we applied a wash on a turpentine-based basis, no backward path!).

I drove dark brown umbra on painted surfaces.

In theory, for spraying turpentine over the oil surface, an airbrush on low PSI values \u200b\u200bshould be used. The rusted points will turn out less bright and more natural. But this time I am not going to use the sprayer, but simply spray a little turpentine on top of the painted zones using a pipette, and then very carefully stirring the drops using a point brushes.

Before you - the result of the work after the paint dried. There is not enough shadows and diversity - only rust is everywhere. Light rust turned out slightly unnecessary, so it would be worth it to darken it with a dark washing. Finally, if the rust stains were on a vertical surface, I would add her heights to them instead of allowing spots to focus on one point.

Open metal area. I can not add anything, although in the example given it looks boring. Here I would add some dust and more shades of corrosion.

Extremely rusted surface - it is easier to simulate it easier. It turned out a little monophonic ... Probably, you need to add a little bright washing, then other colors are added.

Last in order, but not the last value ... My favorite technique. It would be possible to darken rust to the rust, add shadows and dust, but if you enlarge the image, then you can see: this technique gives a very realistic texture effect with a cream. It lacks more natural placement of rusty dents. A little more work, and the view will undoubtedly be much more realistic.

If you want to give your model the effect of aging in the form of rust and you do not know where to start, then this article is for you. There are many ways, this is one of them.

To obtain the metal rust effect there is a special tool called - Rustall. This is a set of three special liquids and imitator dust.

Composition kit

• that is the most fluid Rustall
• black liquid - for washing effect
• matt lacquer
• imitation dust

How to use

1. On the bare part of the model (without primer), the first layer of the fluid itself is applied - Rustall. Next, waiting for a complete drying of the fluid. After that, we apply another layer. If the rust color suits, then go to the next step, if not, then we repeat the required number of times.

2. The next step will be washing on the model. Also with the help of the brush we apply several times, after drying the surplus we wash with a cotton stick. Keep in mind that the wash can move together with the previous layer, it is necessary to be carefully.

3. After all this, the entire surface is covered with matte varnish, which comes in the kit.

4. And the completion of everything you need to apply with the help of a brush content from the fourth jar (dust) on the prepared surface. Wait for complete drying and deleted the remnants. Some models of this stage are complemented by applying Metallic Graya from Tamiya.

In custody

What can be said, indeed this technique of imitation of aging model is quite a worker. Especially interesting will be for lovers of diors and BTT. The only minus is the price and complexity of the purchase, as a rule, this set can be found only in foreign online stores.

Quoted2 \u003e\u003e \u003e\u003e Rust Effect with RUSTALL