It was finally the spring came after a long winter, and the long-awaited summer is approaching the long-awaited summer, it is impossible until a radish appears on the table. Delicious and very useful, on the table in a salad bowl or even simply scattering on the dish, it seems to say with all your appearance - I came, and summer wait for the next. But how to put Redish?

A little about Radish

Crispy, low-alone and bright tubers of radishes are a real repository of many mineral salts - magnesium, potassium, calcium, iron, phosphorus, vitamins - C, in 5, 2, in 1, enzymes and organic acids. And because a person is so positive about the first spring radish that appears on the table at the moment when they are all very necessary for the body? This article will tell you how to plant the seeds of radishes.

There are two types of this plant - an annual and two-year. The first consists of European varieties and brings seeds with rootes within one year, the second is the same asian winter grades that produce seeds only for the second year. This material discusses the rules how to plant the seeds of radishes of European varieties.

Redishes - an early, cold-resistant, loving light and moisture plant belonging to the Conductor class or cabbage class. Depending on the cultivation region, it can bear fruits from 2 to 5 times a year. To get a good and multiple harvest you need to know how and when to plant a radish.

Soil preparation before landing radishes

Many really want to know how to plant a radish in the spring. It all begins in the fall, when they are prepared (raised by 15 cm) beds and make the necessary organic fertilizers - but neatly, without unnecessary fanaticism - because from the oversupply, for example, humoring can grow large "tops" and pebble "roots".

Then, in the spring, after the location of the main snow, mineral fertilizers can be scattered on the beds under Radis. The snow remaining on them, when melting, enrich the soil with the necessary macro and trace elements. But only not potash - excess potassium will make root crude and lead radishes into the arrow.

The beds are made on a sunny and warmed place, and for the fastest heating of the soil, it is desirable to coat a black polyethylene for 9-10 days. Before landing the seeds, it remains to remove the film and make the surpasch of the beds depth in the bayonet shovel. All - you can land seeds of radish.

Some features of plant compatibility

When planting radish seeds, it is important to remember that everyone is subject to a specific compatibility law by violating which can be left without a crop. How to put a radish right, considering all this?

In this regard, such a culture, as Radish, should be planted next to the Kochan Salad, which will not damage the plant. And if the radishes are surrounded by beans, then his tubers grow large sizes and have a more tender taste. In general, Radish is friendly with potatoes and spinach, as well as onions, garlic, beet and cabbage. But with cucumbers to plant radishes is not recommended.

Radisis on the open ground under the film

How to plant a radister for the film? When disembarking seeds in the ground, it is necessary to observe the "rule of three matches". Seeds are planted on the depth of the corresponding length of the match, the garden from the bed is at a distance of matches, and the seed from the seed is planted in a row on the length of the match.

The land for radishes is desirable loose, and after landing of the radisle, it is recommended to inspire it - sprinkle with river sand, sawdust or peat. Considering the fact that when landing the radishes still lies snow, on rows with seeds planted, you can throw it more, but not too much a layer. The next step will be set over the shelter beds with a spandbode type material.

The first sprouts appear at the time of the melting of the last snow. At this point, it is important to pay attention to the density of germs and, if necessary, to proper rows or to give seeds. With a warm spring, it is necessary to do ventilating, raising the spandbod for a while. The first radister on the table can be collected in three weeks, if possible the kind spring.

Radishes in greenhouses

How to plant a radish in a greenhouse? Getting earlier

hilaric radish is possible when landing it in a greenhouse. The soil in the greenhouses is preparing somewhat different, because radishes are not a leading culture. He, so to speak, is attached to the fact that it is already planned to land in a greenhouse. Therefore, seeds are planted not on the garden beds, but between them, and a week or two earlier than the main culture.

As radishes in greenhouses, you can read on many sites. Mostly, the seeds are planted to the depth of half acetimeter and the ground is sprinkled. It should not be keen to the seeds, but when the appearance of strongly elongated shoots, it is desirable to sprinkle them to the earth, otherwise it is possible to remain without root. It should be paid twice - at the very beginning, after disembarking seeds, and a week later.

Radishes in greenhouses

In greenhouses, radishes are also planted in several other rules. Since here it is a leading culture - all the rest are sitting down after it - the Earth is preparing a little differently, and the dates of the landing are determined by the weather and the design of the greenhouses. Since radishes loves both heat and sunlight, in greenhouses suitable conditions can be achieved somewhere after the first decade of April.

Greenhouse soil should be thoroughly aligned. If he is excessively dry - it follows it to pour it in front of the sowing, and when the earth is excessively wet - to switch the ground to the depth of the bayonet and ventilate the greenhouse, opening a bit of the frame.

How best to plant a radish? To speed up seed shoots, desirable to dry out in the greenhouse, it is advisable to germinate. They are soaked for two hours, and then poured with a smooth layer of gauze in plates, covered with a bump and kept warm. Hardly sprouts will begin to slander - it's time to plant them in the ground. The optimal temperature in the greenhouse when sowing radish - from 15 to 20 degrees.

Radish on the windowsill

If you really want to radishes, but there is no summer cottage or garden, then those who want to try to grow this plant in their windowsill. And this can be done, without waiting for spring - although in December. It is enough to have an soil mixture, a drawer, where radishes are planted, and knowledge - how to plant the seeds of radishes when growing it at home. Excellent illumination and cool place required. It may well be a room window sill. It is worth noting - despite the fact that Radish is a plant of a short day, the winter day is still too short, so the additional lighting of radishes does not hurt.

The seeds of the radish are planted into the drawers to a depth of 1 centimeter, at a distance of each other, 5-7 centimeters and be sure to roll. The main feature on the windowsill is the temperature mode that must be observed.

After the first sprouts appeared at room temperature, it is necessary to cool the plant, withsting it at a temperature of about 7 ° C of about 4 days, and then set the mode to it in 17 ° C with good sunny weather and 15⁰ C - with cloudy. At night, to maintain a temperature of about 13 ° C. This can be achieved by adjusting the intake of cold air with the help of the window.

From fertilizers, a cow manure is used in an aqueous solution with an additive of 10 g of potash salt and 15 g of superphosphate for 10 liters of water. The growth of radish root plates occurs within one and three months, so the crop is removed selectively.

Features of the care and fight against pests

Watering for radish - the necessary thing, so it follows it two or three times a day. But if radishes in the open soil gets a lot of moisture - in a rainy spring, it can overper - glass, crack and rot.

The main pest for radish is the fight against which is "clean" solutions that do not have chemistry. This is done because radishes quickly maturing, and rootproofs do not have time to get rid of it.

It may be infused or ash. Such a means not only has a protective effect, but also is an additional feeding for radish.

After plants, affected by certain diseases and pests plant those resistant to them. This is especially important for cabbage and pasacle (tomato, potatoes). Related cultures of plants (potato tomatoes, cucumbers-pumpkin) are sick with the same diseases.

To eliminate unilateral soil depletion, the plants alternate depending on what nutrients they require. In a simplified form - you can alternate "tops" and "root" (for example, carrots are grown after the cabbage or tomatoes).

After bow and garlic, you can land all the cultures. Repeated sowing onions and garlic - not recommended.

After tomatoes and potatoes: cabbage, cucumbers, zucchini, pumpkin, beans, peas, garlic, beet, salad, carrots, parsley, dill, celery.

After cucumbers, zucchini, patissons plant: radishes, cabbage, beets, onions, garlic, peas, beans, tomatoes, potatoes.

After carrots, dill, parsley, celery plant: onions, garlic, beans, peas, potatoes, tomatoes.

After strawberries (after 4 years) - root and legumes, the next year - pumpkin, cucumbers, zucchini, after - tomatoes, onions. After beans, peas, onions and garlic - you can plant any cultures.

The best predecessors of the main vegetable crops are:

for green crops (except salad) - cabbage, cucumber, root, onions;

For early white and cauliflower - potatoes, tomato, onions on ripe, legumes, roots (except radish, turnips, radish and trousers);

For middle and late white cabbage - tomato, potatoes, legumes, carrots, beets;

For onions on ripe - cucumber, tomato, early white cabbage, early potatoes, bean, late cabbage and potatoes;

For cucumber - early white and cauliflower, tomato, potatoes, legumes (except beans), rooted roots (except for carrots), since the beans and carrots are affected by white rot, as well as cucumber;

For carrots - potatoes, cabbage, green crops (except for salad, peeling white rot), tomato, legumes (except beans);

For beets - cucumber and other pumpkin, early potatoes, cabbage, tomato and all bean, late cabbage;

For potatoes - cucumber, zucchini, pumpkin, patisson, cabbage, bean, root, onions;

For tomato, pepper, eggplant, Physalis - Early white and cauliflower, cucumber, zucchini, pumpkin, legumes, onions on rope, root, late cabbage;

For garlic - cucumber, tomato, early white cabbage, bean, late cabbage;

Compatibility of plants

Joint planting of plants, taking into account their compatibility, allows you to noticeably increase the harvest. In case of incompatibility (suppression) - yields are reduced.

Compatible plants :

For beans, the most favorable neighbors are cucumbers. Therefore, it is recommended to plant beans around beds with cucumbers. The beans are well combined with mustard, potatoes, radish, radish, sugar corn, spinach. The inclusion of beans in planting these plants improves the nutrition of the last nitrogen. The scented basil, planted next to the beans, reduces damage to their bean grain. Other useful herbs for beans: a bug, soul man, rosemary, yarrow.

The grapes have a beneficial effect of radishes and radish oilseed.
Petrushka is healing vineyards, affected by phyllox.

Relationships of mutual assistance is observed in pea with carrots, cucumbers, repo. The peas grows well between the rows of these cultures, and, like all legumes, enriches the soil with nitrogen.
Mustard scares pea pea pea fruit and oppress weeds
Peas are compatible as with oats and celery. Tomatoes allocate biologically active substances that stimulate the development of pea.
The root highlights of the mustard (in mixed crops) stimulate the growth of pea.

On the strawberries are favorably influenced: Brush beans, parsley, spinach. Garlic - protects. Parsley, planted in the alarms of strawberries - scares slugs.
Strawberries can be combined with cabbage, onions, radish, radish, salad, beet, garlic. From her herbs, a burachnik (ration and sage grass) and sage. The mulching of the soil during the formation of fruit fetus with spruce and pine needles - significantly improves strawberries;

Cabbage Belococcal as the neighbors prefers salad, onions, celery, dill, bush beans, radishes and even potatoes.
Dill, planted between rows of cabbage, improves its taste and scare off caterpillars and TRU.
Celery protects cabbage from earthen flew and cabbage flies, but its smell attracts a cabbage whitening, and hence it is undesirable together.
For cabbage, the neighborhood with cucumber grass is also favorable, which is well affected on the cabbage and drivens with its rigid hairy leaves.
Very good accompanying culture for cabbage - salad (all kinds) He also protects it from an earthen flew.
Cabbage extremely needed protection from a variety of cabbage butterflies, laying eggs on its leaves. Aromatic herbs can perform this role, their strong smell of cabbage masking odor. Therefore, the cabbage is recommended around the boarding of the cabbage, mint, wormwood, daisy pharmacy, charker, sage.
Leek scares the caterpillars scoop.
In aisle, the cabbage appropriate to plant velvets, naughty, novels - they scare out torture, cabbage and carrot flies, whitening.
Pasternak attracts predatory insects, destroying caterpillars.
With cabbage broccoli compatible salad, bow of celery, beet.
Unwanted for cabbage: tomatoes, beans, carrots.

Potatoes get along well with eggplants, cabbage, corn, onion, spinach, beans, horseradish, garlic and mint. Potatoes protect beans from Bruchus, and the beans feeds potatoes with nitrogen. The above plants are beneficial to complement each other, as they take moisture and nutrients from different soil horizons. When growing potatoes in mixed culture with compatible plants, he is less ill and grows for many years in one place, with a stable yield. Potatoes are not indifferent to cabbage, bows, carrots, radish, salad, dill, garlic. The best partners for potatoes are beans, bush beans and spinach. The beans planted in the beans of potatoes, enriches the soil with nitrogen and scares the Colorado beetle. Potatoes are well combined with cabbage, especially with color collar, corn, radish and different types of salad, a favorable effect on potatoes has horseradished, landed by bushes in a potato site. Colorado Beetles scare the velvets, catnik, coriander, nasturtium, pyrhem. Luke and garlic phytoncides quickly destroy pathogenic potato mushroom - phytoftor.

Corn refers to plants, demanding of nutrition, so it is very well combined with a bush, and with curly beans, for which corn is support. Corn is combined with beans, cucumbers, tomatoes, early potatoes, salad. Cucumbers are recommended to plant around cornflakes. From the point of view of allelopathy, corn is a very friendly plant for many cultures. It has a beneficial effect on potatoes, sunflower.
Corn is seal with zucchild, pumpkin, as well as beans or peas, for which corn stem - serves as a support. Peas with beans contribute to accumulation in the soil of nitrogen.
Soybean protects corn from bug bugs
Poor neighbors for corn - dining room and celery beets

Onions and carrots protect each other from pests: carrots scares onion fluff, and the onion is carrot fly.
Onions are combined with strawberries, cress and salad, cucumbers, radishes, salad, beets, tomatoes, parsley. The bordering of the garden of Luke Cabber is favorable for the growth of Luke, the chamomile pharmacy is also well on it, but only with a small number of daisy bushes (one - on the temporal meter of the bed).
After placing separate plants onions and garlic near cucumbers, you can protect them from bacteriosis. Onions are not combined with beans, peas, beans. For him, the neighborhood of Sage is also unfavorable.

Malina protects the apple tree from the paste, and the apple tree of Malina - from gray rot.

Carrots and peas mutually engraving each other. Carrots are friends with tomatoes, salad, dill, onions, garlic, radish and radish, but not compatible with cabbage.
Root selection of beets planted around the edge of the garden - Heat carrots.

Mint (Melissa) - good grows in the thickets of sorrel.

Under the sea buckthorn grown strawberries or medicinal herbs: chamomile, soul. Of these herbs, a good vitamin tea is obtained with a sheet of sea buckthorn.

The cucumbers are friends with peas and cabbage, but fragile vine. If there is dill between cucumbers, the duration of their fruiting will increase, and therefore the harvest. Cucumbers are compatible with beans, salad, onions, celery, beetroot, parsley. Luke's phytoncides are lying off the cucumber cucumber.

Walnut does not have compatible cultures;

Tomatoes will help spring garlic and dill. Tomatoes and help to other plants. To scare the butterflies of frozhorks and protection from pasta. Pear and apple trees are sitting tall tomatoes. Tomatoes allocate biologically active substances that stimulate the development of pea, cabbage, onions, beans.
Basil fragrant improves the taste of tomatoes;

Radish is friendly with carrots, cucumbers, parsnomac, tomatoes, beets, pumpkin and spinach;

Salad scares an earthcloth from radish, radish, cabbage;

Radish, planted between bush beans, will be larger, and tastier. This is facilitated, the same - Nasturtium and Cress Salad.

Beets are well rolled with salad, peas, cabbage, dill and parsley;

Celery prefers in neighbors: tomato, beans, spinach, onion, cucumber, cabbage

Currant is not damaged by the kidney tick, if there is a bow between the bushes and leave it for the winter in the ground.

Soy is friendly with all cultures.

Asparagus and velvets - help in the fight against nematode.

Predated together put the beans, pumpkins and corn. Pumpkin slowed down the growth of weeds, shading with its foliage soil, corn protected pumpkin from overheating, the beans enriched with nitrogen soil. These plants complement each other, as they take moisture and nutrients from different soil horizons, various mineral elements are needed for their development, they relate differently to lighting.

Spicy plants are seeded between vegetables and trees - Anis, Basil, Coriander, Melissa, Parsley, Thyme, Estragon. The smell of these plants, their phytoncides - prevents the spread of pests and diseases.

If there is velvets, a nasture, calendula (marigolds), chicory, rage into the soil of rusty straw in the soil, they will protect these cultures from defeat nematodes to the soil. Velhets, mustard leaf, notes, clean, spinach - they are healing the soil.

If around the site on which roses planted, make a border from marigolds, the defeat of roses by nematodes will be impossible.

Petrushka will drive ants, as well as she is healing vineyards, affected by phyllox.

The maintenance of the Cineric, or the Dalmatian chamomile, saves cabbage from Tly, caterpillars of cabbage and whitening, and apple tree - from Tly, apple-tree fruzens and other pests. The powder of this plant was used to combat fleas, clouds, flies, cockroaches and even mice. You can also use the pink pink and brutal pyrhem to it. These plants are known as the names of the chamomile Persian and chamomile Caucasian.

With a salad gets around: carrots, cucumbers, legumes, radishes;

The beans are compatible with cabbage, cucumbers, sugar beet. The beans are helpful to disembark other cultures, as it helps to get rid of meadow moth.

Garlic protects asters, cloves, gladiolus, roses from mildew, black legs, black spot and fusariosis, reduces the incidence of carnation with gray rot.

Apple tree - Malina

Stevia (Honey Grass) - can grow next to garlic and onions, even in a flower pot, on the window.

Celery, dill, onions, carrots are well planted nearby. They can be planted together or sequentially, one after another.

Incompatible plants:

Grapes are incompatible with cabbage which is the enemy grape;

Peas are incompatible with pants, beans, tomato;
Garoh and beans conflict with bow and garlic;

Adverse combinations of peas with all types of onions, tomatoes, garlic, trouser, beans;

Bad affects peas - bitter wormwood;

Walnut is oppressing everything that comes across his crown;

Cabbage - it is incompatible with tomatoes, carrots;
Kappust is not combined with parsley, carrots and strongly suffers from closely growing grapes;
Pijma is bad on the leaf cabbage.

Potatoes are incompatible with sunflower, tomatoes and a pumpkin (they can cause a phytoophylane disease);
Cartoant oppress: cherry, apple tree, raspberry, rowan, sunflower;
Potato does not tolerate cucumbers, tomatoes and pumpkin;
It is not recommended to plant potatoes with celery;

Bad neighbors for corn - beets of dining and celery;

Currant and gooseberry can not be seen near (damage to the gooseberry flame);

Onions are not combined with beans, peas, beans, (cabbage, potatoes -?). For him, the neighborhood of Sage is also unfavorable.

Raspberries and strawberries - if they are near, it contributes to the reproduction of strawberry and malinous weevil;

Sea buckthorn, strawberries and grated - if they are near, it contributes to the development of identical diseases;

Cucumbers are suppressed by tomatoes;
Cuccurci is entrited with potatoes and aromatic herbs;

Peach inhibits cherry, pear and apple tree. They should be planted apart from each other.

Petrushka - Cucumber, Coched Salad;

Tomato, dill and beans are incompatible with cabbage;
Tomatoes are aggressive in relation to grapes; Tomatoes - cucumber, turnip, peas, beets, parsley, apple tree, red cabbage; Tomatoes are depressing potatoes and repipes.

Radish - spinach;
Redkin Enemy - Issop;

Salad is incompatible with mustard sheet;

The coarse is badly rooted with potatoes, spinach, corn;

Topol is very aggressive - many cultural plants (apple tree, corn) are choking in his pairs;

Pumpkin - potatoes;

Beans - suppressed by a bowl-shallot;

Fennel - inhibit almost all cultural plants.

The action of herbs: sage is incompatible with onions, the velvets do not affect the beans, wormwood - on beans and peas, and the Pijm is on the cabbage leaf;

When landing radish, it should be done very early, preferably no later than mid-April, because this plant is a short day, always need to take into account that this culture is early, they are cleaned of it in late May - early June, therefore, the place will be released. That is, it is necessary to provide for replacement and prepare in advance towards landing another culture after radish.

It is not necessary to plant any corneptods after it, because the requirements are similar, but vegetable beans, peas, beans, any greens - dill, coriander, basil can be planted. You can plant all the grained - pepper, eggplants, tomatoes. Cabbage seedlings are also permissible to plant. The same dimensional cultures like cucumbers, pumpkins, zucchini, plant potatoes can be in principle, but it is hardly possible to get a relatively few places under Radis, and these cultures require many space in the garden.

I have a mother-in-law planting Rediska in front of carrot. He says that while the carrot matures, Redish is already eaten (just today it was engaged in such landings). I believe that this is a faithful conclusion. In addition, she plans to annoy radishes near the cucumbers, if more precisely, on the edge of the garden. Again, the neighborhood seems to be not criminal, and even to interfere with the radishes of cucumbers will definitely not be.

This year, Redish sowed very early, after we eaten and that the Giarrock was not empty, I landed tomatoes.

The garden was well fertilized, the soil loose, in this soil a lot of sand and peat.

Bushes Tomato are very powerful, there are a lot of fruit on the bustle, though the tomatoes taped 3 times, and they grow.

I do not understand that it was so influenced by the growth and harvest tomato, whether the soil after radishes, whether the Tomato variety is so, and the whole thing I think the care also influenced.

Now every year after radishes I will plant tomatoes.

When planning landing, it is necessary to take into account not only the community of vegetables in terms of the same diseases, but also the consumption of nutrients from the soil.

Let's start with the fact that radishes relates to the family of cruciferous, which means to plant vegetables from the same family after the radishes in the garden, and this is a salad, turnip, cabbage, trouser, radish. Moreover, it is impossible to plant them in the same place 3 - 4 years, as they may be hurting with the same disease - by kayla, and what is known infection remains in the ground. It is not recommended to plant and umbrella.

What can be planted after the radish? And to plant after the radish bean (beans, beans, peas), onion, pumpkin, potatoes, tomatoes.

I am planting radishes like this: I make a deepening across, and after sprinkling seeds, after two weeks I put in those grooves that I jumped out last time. Then, when the first radish end or turns out, I plant again on the place, so I have a fresh juicy radish.

Radish rarely plant a separate bed, more often use it as a neighbor for other plants. After all, radishes matures very quickly and while this is another plant will also only prepare for flowering, the harvest of the radish can already be removed. I, for example, South Radish together with cucumbers, under the film and he does not interfere with them. But if you plant a separate bed of radishes with a separate bed, then after it can not be treated other representatives of cruciferous or how it is customary to say cellular. And this is just a cabbage, this radish is the closest relative of the radish, which is not called the scientific classification other than the radish garden, and this turnip. In the same year, it's good after the radishes to plant various salads, greenery, and in the next beans, beans, onions, tomatoes, cucumbers, peppers, and so on.



Of course, you can plant anything. But if you follow the table of crop rotation and compatibility of plants, then after the radirate should not be planted again, as well as any other culture again in the same place. Radish refers to the cabbage family (cabbage, turnip, horseradish, etc.), so you need to plant something else. It is better not to satisfy after radish and carrots.

So A good option will plant bean, pumpkin, greenery, beets.

It is impossible to plant cabbage after the radius, since these are plants of one family, but beets can be.

Radish, refers to those few agricultural cultures that are not too much exposed to the soil, and therefore, after it can be planted almost any seedlings.

At the same time, it should be remembered that there are early and late varieties of this dietary and very useful root corner. The first - ripen in May-June, and the maternity owners of the harvest, can of course leave the land under the ferry, but most often they will put plants in their place with a short period of vegetation, such as dill or parsley, tomatoes, cucumbers, Beijing cabbage and T . d. The main thing - do not forget about the compatibility of vegetable crops.

Radish usually try to sow early, as soon as the earth will allow, in the spring they choose early varieties, and remove it to the beginning of summer. So it turns out that the site after it is exempt early, the rare owner will leave it under the ferry - for this you need to have a lot of space. Most often, other vegetables are put on this place. You can, of course, sow radishes again, but in the summer it will not give such a rich harvest. So you can put on the garden after the radishes?

This early vitamin vegetable is planted the very first on the plot, the soil is trying to prepare for him in advance, from autumn. The site is chosen even, open, so that the sun becomes, as much as possible. The soil fertilizes with humus, compost, mineral fertilizers, make ash or even lime, if you need to deoxide it, sand or peat is added. Here is such a loose nutrient soil remained on the plot after the radishes, because for a short time that it grows and matures, and it is from 20 to 40 days, it simply does not have time to drain the earth.

Lighting the crop, the indental owner immediately prepares a plot for other vegetables, because the plan should be thought out in advance in accordance with the laws of crop rotation and compatibility of plants. An experienced gardene knows in the fall in the fall, which will sow or sit at this place at the end of May or beginning of June (the time of ripening the selected variety of radishes is known).

Of course, Radish could be planted between other vegetables, such as cucumbers or tomatoes. In this case, her cleaning will simply give more space to grow vegetables, but rarely where tomatoes are so early. Most often, the seedlings of tomatoes, peppers, eggplants can be planted after harvesting our very early vegetable.

After cleaning the root, the plot needs to be cleaned from all plant residues, get and destroy the roots of weeds, to divert well.

If the soil is not originally different with nutritional and fertility, then fertilizers can be made, for example, urea, compost. If the soil is quite fertile, it is not necessary to fertilize it again before sowing or planting something else, because for the month or one and a half, which grew by radish, she did not have time to drain even their horizon, and the plant with the plant with Another root system.

Cleaning and rustling a plot, the owner usually raves him, watering, leaves to relax to some, even if very little time.

What can be planted after radish

Each culture depletes the soil in its own way - chooses certain nutrients from the level, on which its roots are located. In addition, in the upper layers of the soil, pests and pathogens of certain diseases are settled, which are targeting on this culture, they try to entrenched for a long time, bring offspring, arrange it to wintering in the hope of focusing their greens. That is why it is impossible for several years in a row to plant the same culture in the same place. The charm of annual vegetables consists in addition to everything else and that you can easily change the place of their cultivation. Moreover, it is impossible to sit near or in one place in turns you can not close relatives. Therefore, after cleaning the radishes, it does not plant cruciferous (cabbage), that is, radish or cabbage. Actually, this implies crop rotation.

After radishes, tomatoes and eggplants often plant. While barely overtaken earth, rooted roots, the gardeners grow seedlings of these vegetables, and the time to get it on the garden just to her release. Tomatoes and eggplants have no common enemies with cruciferous, moreover, the smell of tomatoes scares the cruciferous fly, as well as some types of Tly, so that they can be safely planted on the freed prepared bed.

You can sow muggy, peas or beans for the same reasons - the absence of common enemies, a different level of growing root system. Only the area for watermelons, melons, pumpkins require a large, and radish, as a rule, take a small area.

Most often after radishes sow onions on the feather or greens - dill, parsley, some types of salad. Their growing period is allowed to do this, and no pest or diseases of the previous harm culture will bring them.

Many gardeners sow the seedlings of cucumbers for the released areas, and if the climate (in the south) allows, then you can even sow them with a sideproof (the so-called, mixed sowing), to cover the film, and then after cleaning the radishes, the cucumbers just enough space.

Special literature does not recommend planting carrots, but some gardeners practice mixed sowing, they say that both cultures are normally growing and developing. In general, after radishes, plant roots risky, but you can sit, or rather, to sow on the liberated areas late varieties of beets ("Cylinder", "Bagrous Ball", "Cold-heated-19") and carrots ("Moscow Winter", "Losinoostrovskaya-13" , "Vitamin-6"). Experience has shown that they give a good harvest, many even celebrate an improved taste, and then well stored.

The most important thing is not to occupy the liberated areas of cabbage, pants, radish.

Video "Sowing Radisa after Cabbage"

Alternation of crops in the garden (which can be planted after which). This memo will be useful to gardeners and summer residents. Yes, and not beginners at the beginning of the sowing season, it will not hurt to refresh the memory. The plant returns to the place where it grew no earlier than in 3-4 years. There are exceptions: tomato, beans, strawberries, potatoes - they can grow at the same place for years. The principle of the fruit implies that predecessors are preparing the Earth for the following plants. After plants with a small-locked root system, plants are plant with a deep root system. After plants, affected by certain diseases and pests plant those resistant to them. This is especially important for cabbage and pasacle (tomato, potatoes). Related cultures of plants (potato tomatoes, cucumbers-pumpkin) are sick with the same diseases. To eliminate unilateral soil depletion, the plants alternate depending on what nutrients they require. In a simplified form - you can alternate the tops and roots (for example, carrots are grown after the cabbage or tomatoes). After bow and garlic, you can land all the cultures. Repeated sowing onions and garlic - not recommended. After tomatoes and potatoes: cabbage, cucumbers, zucchini, pumpkin, beans, peas, garlic, beet, salad, carrots, parsley, dill, celery. After cucumbers, zucchini, patissons plant: radishes, cabbage, beets, onions, garlic, peas, beans, tomatoes, potatoes. After carrots, dill, parsley, celery plant: onions, garlic, beans, peas, potatoes, tomatoes. After strawberries (after 4 years) - root and legumes, the next year - pumpkin, cucumbers, zucchini, after - tomatoes, onions. After beans, peas, onions and garlic - you can plant any cultures. The best predecessors of the main vegetable crops are: for green crops (except salad) - cabbage, cucumber, root, onions; For early white and cauliflower - potatoes, tomato, onions on ripe, legumes, roots (except radish, turnips, radish and trousers); For middle and late white cabbage - tomato, potatoes, legumes, carrots, beets; for onions on ripe - cucumber, tomato, early white cabbage, early potatoes, bean, late cabbage and potatoes; For cucumber - early white and cauliflower, tomato, potatoes, legumes (except beans), rooted roots (except for carrots), since the beans and carrots are affected by white rot, as well as cucumber; For carrots - potatoes, cabbage, green crops (except for salad, peeling white rot), tomato, legumes (except beans); for beets - cucumber and other pumpkin, early potatoes, cabbage, tomato and all bean, late cabbage; for potatoes - cucumber, zucchini, pumpkin, patisson, cabbage, bean, root, onions; For tomato, pepper, eggplant, Physalis - Early white and cauliflower, cucumber, zucchini, pumpkin, legumes, onions on rope, root, late cabbage; For garlic - cucumber, tomato, early white cabbage, bean, late cabbage; Compatible plants: Cherry - Raspberries Eggplants are recommended to be planted among the bush beans, scaring the colorado beetle. Posseably affects eggplant - char. For beans, the most favorable neighbors are cucumbers. Therefore, it is recommended to plant beans around beds with cucumbers. The beans are well combined with mustard, potatoes, radish, radish, sugar corn, spinach. The inclusion of beans in planting these plants improves the nutrition of the last nitrogen. The scented basil, planted next to the beans, reduces damage to their bean grain. Other useful herbs for beans: a bug, soul man, rosemary, yarrow. The grapes have a beneficial effect of radishes and radish oilseed. Petrushka is healing vineyards, affected by phyllox. Relationships of mutual assistance is observed in pea with carrots, cucumbers, repo. The peas grows well between the rows of these cultures, and, like all legumes, enriches the soil with nitrogen. The mustard scares the pea pea pea fruit and oppresses the weeds pea compatible as with oats and celery. Tomatoes allocate biologically active substances that stimulate the development of pea. The root highlights of the mustard (in mixed crops) stimulate the growth of pea. On the strawberries are favorably influenced: Brush beans, parsley, spinach. Garlic - protects. Parsley, planted in the alarms of strawberries - scares slugs. Strawberries can be combined with cabbage, onions, radish, radish, salad, beet, garlic. From her herbs, a burachnik (ration and sage grass) and sage. The mulching of the soil during the formation of fruit fetus and pine needles significantly improves strawberries; Cabbage Belococcal as the neighbors prefers salad, onions, celery, dill, bush beans, radishes and even potatoes. Dill, planted between rows of cabbage, improves its taste and scare off caterpillars and TRU. Celery protects cabbage from earthen flew and cabbage flies, but its smell attracts a cabbage whitening, and hence it is undesirable together. For cabbage, the neighborhood with cucumber grass is also favorable, which is well affected on the cabbage and drivens with its rigid hairy leaves. Very good accompanying culture for cabbage - salad (all kinds) He also protects it from an earthen flew. Cabbage extremely needed protection from a variety of cabbage butterflies, laying eggs on its leaves. Aromatic herbs can perform this role, their strong smell of cabbage masking odor. Therefore, the cabbage is recommended around the boarding of the cabbage, mint, wormwood, daisy pharmacy, charker, sage. Leek scares the caterpillars scoop. In aisle, the cabbage appropriate to plant velvets, naughty, novels - they scare out torture, cabbage and carrot flies, whitening. Pasternak attracts predatory insects, destroying caterpillars. With cabbage broccoli compatible salad, bow of celery, beet. Unwanted for cabbage: tomatoes, beans, carrots. Potatoes get along well with eggplants, cabbage, corn, onion, spinach, beans, horseradish, garlic and mint. Potatoes protect beans from Bruchus, and the beans feeds potatoes with nitrogen. The above plants are beneficial to complement each other, as they take moisture and nutrients from different soil horizons. When growing potatoes in mixed culture with compatible plants, he is less ill and grows for many years in one place, with a stable yield. Potatoes are not indifferent to cabbage, bows, carrots, radish, salad, dill, garlic. The best partners for potatoes are beans, bush beans and spinach. The beans planted in the beans of potatoes, enriches the soil with nitrogen and scares the Colorado beetle. Potatoes are well combined with cabbage, especially with color collar, corn, radish and different types of salad, a favorable effect on potatoes has horseradished, landed by bushes in a potato site. Colorado Beetles scare the velvets, catnik, coriander, nasturtium, pyrhem. Luke and garlic phytoncides quickly destroy pathogenic potato mushroom - phytoftor. Corn refers to plants, demanding of nutrition, so it is very well combined with a bush, and with curly beans, for which corn is support. Corn is combined with beans, cucumbers, tomatoes, early potatoes, salad. Cucumbers are recommended to plant around cornflakes. From the point of view of allelopathy, corn is a very friendly plant for many cultures. It has a beneficial effect on potatoes, sunflower. Corn is seal with zucchild, pumpkin, as well as beans or peas, for which corn stem - serves as a support. Peas with beans contribute to accumulation in the soil of nitrogen. Soyo protects corn from bugs-turtles. Bad neighbors for corn - beets of dining room and celery onions and carrots protect each other from pests: the carrot scares the onion flies, and the onion is a carrot fly. Onions are combined with strawberries, cress and salad, cucumbers, radishes, salad, beets, tomatoes, parsley. The bordering of the garden of Luke Cabber is favorable for the growth of Luke, the chamomile pharmacy is also well on it, but only with a small number of daisy bushes (one - on the temporal meter of the bed). After placing separate plants onions and garlic near cucumbers, you can protect them from bacteriosis. Onions are not combined with beans, peas, beans. For him, the neighborhood of Sage is also unfavorable. Malina protects the apple tree from the paste, and the apple tree of Malina - from gray rot. Carrots and peas mutually engraving each other. Carrots are friends with tomatoes, salad, dill, onions, carrots. Root selection of beets planted around the edge of the garden - Heat carrots. Mint (Melissa) - good grows in the thickets of sorrel. Under the sea buckthorn grown strawberries or medicinal herbs: chamomile, soul. Of these herbs, a good vitamin tea is obtained with a sheet of sea buckthorn. Cucumbers are friends with peas and cabbage. If there is dill between cucumbers, the duration of their fruiting will increase, and therefore the harvest. Cucumbers are compatible with beans, salad, onions, celery, beetroot, parsley. Luke's phytoncides are lying off the cucumber cucumber. Walnut does not have compatible cultures; Tomatoes will help spring garlic and dill. Tomatoes and help to other plants. To scare the butterflies of frozhorks and protection from pasta. Pear and apple trees are sitting tall tomatoes. Tomatoes allocate biologically active substances that stimulate the development of pea, cabbage, onions, beans. Basil fragrant improves the taste of tomatoes; Radish is friendly with carrots, cucumbers, parsnomac, tomatoes, beets, pumpkin and spinach; Salad scares an earthcloth from radish, radish, cabbage; Radish, planted between bush beans, will be larger, and tastier. This is facilitated, the same - Nasturtium and Cress Salad. Beets are well rolled with salad, peas, cabbage, dill and parsley; Celery prefers in the neighbors: tomato, beans, spinach, onion, cucumber, Cabbage Cathery is not damaged by the kidney tick, if they put onions between the bushes and leave it for the winter in the ground. Soy is friendly with all cultures. Asparagus and velvets - help in the fight against nematode. Predated together put the beans, pumpkins and corn. Pumpkin slowed down the growth of weeds, shading with its foliage soil, corn protected pumpkin from overheating, the beans enriched with nitrogen soil. These plants complement each other, as they take moisture and nutrients from different soil horizons, various mineral elements are needed for their development, they relate differently to lighting. Spicy plants are seeded between vegetables and trees - Anis, Basil, Coriander, Melissa, Parsley, Thyme, Estragon. The smell of these plants, their phytoncides - prevents the spread of pests and diseases. If there is velvets, a nasture, calendula (marigolds), chicory, rage into the soil of rusty straw in the soil, they will protect these cultures from defeat nematodes to the soil. Velhets, mustard leaf, notes, clean, spinach - they are healing the soil. If around the site on which roses planted, make a border from marigolds, the defeat of roses by nematodes will be impossible. Petrushka will drive ants. Petrushka is healing vineyards, affected by phyllox. The maintenance of the Cineric, or the Dalmatian chamomile, saves cabbage from Tly, caterpillars of cabbage and whitening, and apple tree - from Tly, apple-tree fruzens and other pests. The powder of this plant was used to combat fleas, clouds, flies, cockroaches and even mice. You can also use the pink pink and brutal pyrhem to it. These plants are known as the names of the chamomile Persian and chamomile Caucasian. With a salad gets around: carrots, cucumbers, legumes, radishes; The beans are compatible with cabbage, cucumbers, sugar beet. The beans are helpful to disembark other cultures, as it helps to get rid of meadow moth. Garlic protects asters, cloves, gladiolus, roses from mildew, black legs, black spot and fusariosis, reduces the incidence of carnation with gray rot. Apple tree - Malina Celery, dill, onions, carrots are well planted nearby. They can be planted together or sequentially, one after another. Incompatible plants: It is not recommended to plant beans (beans, peas, soy) with bow and garlic. Also, the proof of the velvetsev and wormwood bitter do not act on the beans. Grapes are incompatible with cabbage which is the enemy grape; Peas are incompatible with pants, beans, tomato; Garoh and beans conflict with bow and garlic; Adverse combinations of peas with all types of onions, tomatoes, garlic, trouser, beans; Bad affects peas - bitter wormwood; Walnut is oppressing everything that comes across his crown; Cabbage - it is incompatible with tomatoes, carrots; Kappust is not combined with parsley, carrots and strongly suffers from closely growing grapes; Pijma is bad on the leaf cabbage. Potatoes are incompatible with sunflower, tomatoes and a pumpkin (they can cause a phytoophylane disease); Cartoant oppress: cherry, apple tree, raspberry, rowan, sunflower; Potato does not tolerate cucumbers, tomatoes and pumpkin; It is not recommended to plant potatoes with celery; Bad neighbors for corn - beets of dining and celery; Currant and gooseberry can not be squeezed near (damage to the gooseberry fire); Onions are not combined with beans, peas, beans, (cabbage, potatoes -?). For him, the neighborhood of Sage is also unfavorable. Raspberries and strawberries - if they are near, it contributes to the reproduction of strawberry and malinous weevil; Sea buckthorn, strawberries and grated - if they are near, it contributes to the development of identical diseases; Cucumbers are suppressed by tomatoes; Cuccurci is entrited with potatoes and aromatic herbs; Peach inhibits cherry, pear and apple tree. They should be planted apart from each other. Petrushka - Cucumber, Coched Salad; Tomato, dill and beans are incompatible with cabbage; Tomatoes are aggressive in relation to grapes; Tomatoes - cucumber, turnip, peas, beets, parsley, apple tree, red cabbage; Tomatoes are depressing potatoes and repipes.