It is possible to warm up the builders at home from the inside, and the builders are arguing, and manufacturers of insulation materials, but everyone converge on the fact that in most cases the insulation of the walls inside will not be the best solution - if there is an opportunity, it is better to go outdoor thermal insulation at home. However, if there is no choice, it is necessary to carefully examine the features and rules for choosing and installing the insulation so that the internal thermal insulation is effective, safe and durable. How to insulate the walls of the house from the inside and how to do it?

Inside the premises you can insulate the walls only in cases where it is impossible to change the facade of the building or to the outer surface of the wall there is no access. Avoid the insulation of walls from the inside of the house is recommended because he has a number of significant flaws:

• The dew point shifts inside the room. The wall begins to freeze for the whole thickness, the cold occurs with the warm air at the junction of the wall and the insulation, and condensate is formed on its surface. It has a lot of negative consequences: fungus can develop on a wet wall, the efficiency of the heat-insulating material is reduced, it is lagging behind the wall, collapsed; In addition, decorative decoration is spoiled.
• The simply wall loses its heat accumulating properties. It becomes difficult to control the air temperature in the room - it begins to warm up faster due to the operation of the heating devices or the direct sunlight in the window and quickly cool when carrying out.

• It is impossible to provide 100% heat insulation, as it will not work off the walls from the inside throughout their surface - the cold bridges will remain at the intersection of the outer wall with the internal partitions.
• The indoor air humidity increases. This, again, contributes to the formation of mold and is generally harmful to health. To ensure good air exchange, you have to constantly air the apartment, which will lead to an increase in heating costs.
• The useful area of \u200b\u200bthe apartment decreases - especially if due to the climatic conditions in the region it is necessary to mount the insulation for the walls of the house with a thick layer.
• If work on thermal insulation is carried out not before starting repair in the room, you have to dismantle the whole decorative finish, which complicates the work and makes it more expensive.

Condensate indoor becomes the most dangerous consequence of the inner heat insulation, which leads to the acceleration of the destruction of the walls and the spurrel of finishing materials. You can partially avoid this by accurately calculating the necessary thickness of the insulation layer and choosing the right material. Thus, the insulation of the house from the inside is expensive and unsafe, but sometimes inevitable.

How to avoid condensate

If you still have to do internal thermal insulation, then before you understand how to insulate the house from the inside, you need to understand whether it is possible to avoid negative consequences. The dryness of the walls inside the house can be ensured if the place of formation of the point of dew on the exposure of moisture is.

For this you need:

• Use a high-quality multi-layer membrane for waterproofing. Polyethylene film is not suitable. In addition, it needs to be properly furnished - the mustache, with the sealing of the joints.
• Select a heater with a minimum vapor permeability. If the material from which the walls are made, this indicator will be higher, then the moisture generated between the insulation and the surface of the wall will not be condensed, but to go out.
• Mount the insulation close to the wall. To do this, glue on it should be applied with a smooth solid layer, not beacons.

• Provide forced ventilation of the room, as well as install windows with air exchange valves.
• Accurately calculate the thickness of the insulation layer. You can not focus on the average parameters, since it is possible to warm the walls, only considering all the characteristics of a particular material, the premises and the climatic features of the region.
• Treat the warmed wall with antifungal and antibacterial agents. You can use a special antiseptic primer. You can start working only after the surface of the wall is completely soaked and dried.

When insulating the apartment from the inside it is very important to get rid of all possible cold bridges. They are formed at the joints of the insulation slabs and in those places where the wall is connected to overlappings and internal partitions. To improve the effectiveness of insulation, it is necessary to lay the thermal insulation material with an occasion of the inner walls, the floor and the ceiling.

Selection of thermal insulation material and insulation mounting technology

Mineral wool

It is not recommended to choose this material, as he insulated the wall in the apartment from the inside, it will not work quite effectively with it. However, Vata is most simple in circulation and cheaper than other options, so often resort to its use.

Wat exists in two versions:

• rolls;
• basalt plates.

If there is no other choice, it is better to use wool in the form of plates - this insulation is more dense, has better thermal resistance, it does not settle over time. The roll variety of cotton varies with too high record permeability, well absorbs moisture, so that the walls warmed by it will probably get intoxicated. However, the probability of the penetration of moisture under the insulation is and when using plates with a density of 75 kg / m3. It is possible to reduce the risk of condensate, applying a good vapor insulation material and correctly installing thermal insulation.

Insulation from the inside mineral wool is as follows:

1. At a distance from the wall surface, a frame of wooden plates or an aluminum profile is constructed.
2. Under the frame, the first layer of mineral wool is laid. It is necessary to glue it to the wall as tight as possible.
3. The second layer of basalt wool slabs is stacked between the frames of the frame with the displacement of the joints relative to the first layer.
4. Located a layer of vaporizolation membrane.
5. Plasterboard mounted on the frame.

Due to the peculiarities of mineral wool vats, you need to pay special attention when the inner insulation of the walls of the house is carried out. It is impossible to use a polyethylene film, you need a more efficient steamproof multilayer membrane. To a wooden frame, it can be attached to the stapler, necessarily a mustache; It is glued to the profile with two-way scotch.

The backstage when laying the membrane should be at least 100 mm, joints - to occur on the framework elements and reliably cry. Parosolation should go to the neighboring surface of the surface. Places of contact of the membrane with surfaces should be additionally sealing. The liquid sealant is applied to the wall, a pipe or another design, then the membrane presses to the place of the adjoint; After drying, the sealant of the membrane is fixed with scotch.

High-quality installation will reduce, but will not completely remove the risk of condensate when using mineral wool. It is better to consider other, polymeric, types of insulation for walls from within.

Polystyrethille and Epps

The polystyrene foam, or foam plastic, is suitable for the insulation of the wall in the apartment from the inside is much better. This contributes to this characteristics:

• low thermal conductivity due to the presence of air in the cells of the material;
• low vapor permeability and almost absent hygroscopicity;
• high strength, including compression and gap;
• small mass;
• easy processing with your own hands - cut the material with a typical knife.

The usual or extruded polystyrene foam of sufficient density even with a relatively small thickness will provide sufficiently effective thermal insulation of the room. It is recommended to choose it not only because of the ease of installation, but also to insulate the apartment from the inside with it, you can most productively: it does not miss moisture, so the condensate will not appear. The main thing is to properly glue foam plates, sealing joints and ensuring the density of fitting to the wall.

Applying polystyrene foam for thermal insulation of residential premises, it is important to take into account some of its cons. So, he practically does not protect against noise. In addition, during combustion, it highlights toxic compounds into the air. Another disadvantage is the high cost of EPPS, but it is compensated by the fact that it is not necessary to lay a vapor insulation membrane, but to redo thermal insulation due to the destruction of the insulation, it is accurately not necessary, as in the case of incorrect mounting of stone wool.

The polystyrene insulation for walls inside the apartment should have a high density - 25-30 kg / m3. It is possible to determine the density by labeling, which has the form "PSB-C-25", where 25 means the desired parameter.

Installation plates of polystyrene foam on the inner wall is carried out as follows:

1. The wall surface is cleaned, ground and dried.
2. The insulation plates are glued with rows with displacement of the joints. It is advisable to use polyurethane glue, which is applied to the entire surface of the plate of polystyrene foam.
3. Additionally, the plates are fixed with special plastic dowels.
4. The joints are sealed with silicone sealant, large gaps are filled with mounting foam.
5. On top of the insulation, the reinforcing fiberglass is stacked. On top of it you can put plaster for decorative finish. Another option - instead of reinforcement, immediately glue drywall.

There is another way of installation. On the long ends, the plates of PPS are selected grooves in the form of corners. Two plates are joined, seam is sealed. Then the wooden board is invested in the groove. The resulting design is fixed on the wall using self-tapping screws. This method is more convenient, as it is possible to insulate the room in this case faster and more economical. In addition, boards can be used as a frame for mounting drywall.

Is it worth considering other options

There are more modern insulation for walls from the inside - polyurethane foam, heat-insulating plaster, foamed polyethylene and even thermocracy based on ceramics. Among them are worthy of worthy unless the first material; Other options are actually affordable for the insulation of an apartment from within. Polyurethan is a conventional foam similar to the assembly, which is applied to the insulated surface using a special sprayer.

The material is good in that it is reliably engaged with any surface, penetrates all the cracks, is monolithic and steamproof. He quickly freezes and does not forms no cold bridges. However, polyurethane foam is quite expensive, and it will not work with him.

Thus, if it is necessary to make the insulation of walls from the inside, it is best to use expanded polystyrene foam. This thermal insulator has the most suitable characteristics, and it is not difficult to install it. When complying with insulation technology, it will effectively protect the house from the cold.

One of the most important living conditions in the apartment is good heat supply for which the centralized heating system is responsible, or autonomous equipment installed by residents. However, the effectiveness of heating directly depends on the maintenance of the insulation of the premises.

Consider how to insulate the wall in the apartment in order to increase the air temperature and at the same time reduce energy consumption for heating. For which we give two detailed instructions for thermal insulation by popular types of insulation, in which each step is illustrated by photos.

Also in this material we consider less popular methods that are permissible to apply for insulation of walls from the inside.

The predominant way of insulation of walls of apartments and houses is still not affecting the dew point shift and the heating wall is entirely.

If the insulation layer is mounted on the inside, the wall freezes the thickness, and moves closer to the residential area.

The negative consequence of internal insulation is condensate loss, which over time destroys insulating and decorative materials, dramatically reduces the efficiency of thermal insulation and provokes the appearance of mold

However, the external way is not always suitable. Difficulties arise with the installation of the insulation on the panel heights, as well as on the walls adjacent to technical spaces, for example, a shaft elevator. If the building is a historical object, the appearance of the facade cannot be changed.

However, in some cases without thermal insulation, it's just not to do ...

Gallery of images

If in the warmed room it is planned to build a septum, then it can also be done using minvati, but the OSB plates are better replaced by sheetwall sheets.

The escape is placed between two walls from the LGK, and each wall is made of 2 layers of drywall. This partition will protect from cold and noise no worse than a full wall of reinforced concrete.

Both presented methods have the disadvantages that need to be taken into account when planning work.

First, they select part of the useful area and reduce the space of residential premises around the perimeter, secondly, require significant investments of the family budget, thirdly, when they need to be observed all the nuances of technology.

A brief overview of other ways

Other technologies are used, among which are found both outdated, but cheaper and modern, requiring considerable investments.

Installation of polystyrene foam or foam

With the advent of EPPS, use the usual fair-resistant polystyrene foam (PSB) became inappropriate, as it has degraded characteristics.

Namely:

• lit and melting, highlighting hazardous substances;
• it has fragility, due to which slices break under mechanical pressure;
• not protected from rodents.

By parameters, it is inferior to extrusion polystyrene, and it can be seen on the table of physico-technical properties of plates of polystyrene foam.

The heat insulation laying inside the house is better to use only as an additional measure. If the outer walls are not protected from the cold, the condensate will constantly form inside the house inside the house, which will contribute to the development of fungus and mold.

Dew point

The dew point is the temperature in which steam turns into water. Condensate falls on the border of the heat-cold. In our case, it will appear in the place where the imperturbed wall comes into contact with the warm air, coming out of the room. Moreover, the more difference between the temperature of the wall and the temperature indoors, the condensate will be more.

Dew point in the wall of the house

If the house is insulated outside, during the installation of additional thermal insulation inside the house of the sharp drop temperature will not be, therefore the amount of condensate indoors will be minimal. But it will still come to accumulate.

To the walls after insulation do not mock, it follows to lay internal heat insulation correct the materialbut also take action for the perfect sealing seams. To avoid condensate falling, it is better to warm only separate sections of walls With a leeward side, end parts and corners.

Choosing materials

For internal warming, you should not choose materials having a high degree of moisture absorption: mineral wool, cork, warm plaster or drywall. The last two material can be used only as a finishing layer.

Porous penoplex. Does not absorb moisture, however, it has low vapor permeability, so it can be used only if the quality of the seams is ideal. If the heat-insulating layer is leakage, condensate will be formed between the wall and finishing material.

The air permeability of the foam above, in addition, to achieve perfect docking with the wall with the help of this material is very problematic, so it is better not to use it for the interior decoration of the walls or choose a foam of increased strength.

Penoplex.

Preparation of walls

Before the sticker of heat-insulating materials, the walls must be fully cleaned from old wallpaper, paint and shuffling plaster. To do this, you can use a metal brush, a construction hairdryer or a grinder with a special nozzle. If you have mold or fungus, these areas after cleansing are additionally processed by antiseptics.

In order to avoid the appearance of the bridges of cold and condensate loss, it is necessary to fully close with foam or solution of all existing cracks. The protruding parts of the walls that do not allow to lay the heat insulating material exactly, are knocked down. Too large dents are burned with a solution.

Cleaning walls

Thoroughly close and all holes and slots between the wall and the window using the mounting foam. After it is frozen, the residues are cut off with a knife.

Sealing foam slots

Padding

The application of the primer layer will reduce the degree of vapor permeability of the walls, strengthen the surface and increase the degree of clutch it with adhesive composition. In addition, such a treatment will prevent the development of fungus.

For priming, you should choose the compositions of deep penetration. For wood processing, it is better to choose alkyd mixtures. Acrylic primer is universal and can be used for any kind of surfaces. Epoxy formulations are used only for processing concrete and brick walls.

The primer is applied twice. The second layer is superimposed only after drying the first. Smooth walls can be rebounded with roller. If there are a large number of dents and chips, it is better to use a conventional brush, which is capable of penetrating the bristles even into the smallest gaps.

Protecting wall roller

Laying a vapor barrier film

Before mounting the insulation on the wall, a foil material reflecting the heat is fixed, or a thick polyethylene film. They are fixed to wooden bars or profile with the help of brackets, tape or mounting glue. Fungalized material is placed brilliant side outside, to the room.

All joints are sampled by building scotch. In places of adjustment to building structures and pipes, they are additionally treated with liquid sealant and secured the stapler.

Finishing foil insulation

Film or folgized material is stacked by the mustache, while the blades should be on the frame racks. On the adjacent walls, windows, ceiling and floor is made a small science.

Installation of insulation

In contrast to foam plastic, the Penoplex has no rough, but a smooth surface, so to increase its clutch with the wall before the sticker it is processed needle roller or emery paper.

Needle roller

Small sites (space under batteries, slopes and windowes) are isolated first. Penoplex is well cut with a hacksaw or sharp knife. To avoid damage to the material, it can be cut hot wire.

Important! Works should be carried out in the summer after thorough drying of the room. The walls on which thermal insulation material will be laid must be as dry as possible.

Finishlex wall decoration

For fastening sheets to the wall it is better to use a special adhesive composition designed for work with the penplex. It is necessary to breed it in small quantities: the dried mixture will crumble, and thermal insulation will break. It preserves adhesion for 10 minutes - during this time, the sheet of fox should be fixed on the wall.

The glue is distributed evenly throughout the sheet with a toothed spatula. With uneven walls, the adhesive composition can be applied with a thicker layer only in the center and the perimeter of the sheet.

Promise of sheets

The sticker begins with the bottom of the wall. Sheets are connected to each other. Unlike foaming, Penoplex has protrusions around the perimeter, so such a connection will be more sealed. As a support for the bottom sheet it is better to use starting metal rack-profilewhich is fixed to the wall with a dowel with washers.

Sheet sticking is reached upward. It is tightly pressed against the surface, and then the surplus of the glue "drive out" from under the sheet. For displacement (Penoplex placed in a checker order) The first sheet of the second row is cut in half. The correct installation of the fastener is controlled by the construction level.

Important! The slots between the penplex are filled with cropping material and are sampled. It is not recommended to use mounting foam for these purposes. In the process of expansion, it can lift the fox leaf, which will lead to a disruption of tightness and the formation of cracks.

Fastening fastening

Additional consolidation of sheets is made using plastic "fungi"in which dowels are inserted. To do this, the walls are drilled through the heater of the insulation: four in the corners of the sheet and one or two in its center. Dowels should enter a brick wall to a depth of at least 90 mm, in concrete - by 50 mm. They are clogged with a rubber hammer.

Plastic dowels

After insulation, it is possible to attach plasterboard or reinforced film and separate it with decorative plaster.

In the construction of private houses, errors are often allowed, because of which in the winter time in the rooms is very cold, and the heating has to spend a lot of money. Correct this situation allows competent warming. In the article, we will look at the appropriate materials suitable for repair, as well as their installation procedure.

Characteristics of insulation - 5 points on which it is worth staying

In order to warm up the walls of the house from the inside, it is necessary to understand what properties must have materials. The most important characteristics of thermal insulation materials are:

1. 1. The degree of thermal insulation. For different insulation, various degrees of thermal insulation are characterized, some materials better prevent the cooling of indoor rooms, others are worse.
2. 2. Dimensions. Insulation with equal insulation characteristics may have different thickness. It is best to use fine materials, the installation of which will not too much to reduce the useful area of \u200b\u200bthe rooms.
3. 3. Parputness. The funds used should not prevent the evaporation of moisture. If the pair will create condensate, it can lead to the formation on the walls of fungus and mold.
4. 4. Density of joints. The denser the joints will be, the less likely the appearance of the so-called cold bridges, which not only reduce the quality of insulation, but also increase wear in the internal facing materials.
5. 5. Mounting complexity. The easier it is to install heat-insulating materials, the easier it will be repaired independently, not attracting professionals to the installation.

We also recommend paying attention to the ability of materials used to maintain their form throughout the entire life. The cheapest insulation are quickly deformed, lose their useful qualities, because of which it may be necessary to repaid soon, therefore it is better to warm the walls with high-quality means.

Mineral wool - one of the most popular heat insulators

Minvata - common and affordable thermal insulation material. It is popular for both professional builders and private owners who want with minimal investments to carry out insulation of the house from the inside. Mineral wool has many advantages, but the main of them is low weight, that is, the use of it in repair will not create an additional load on the structural elements of the residential object.

The ease of Minvati is especially important if necessary, insulation the walls from the inside in a private frame house, partitions and a foundation in which they will not be able to withstand additional loads from thermal insulation. Despite its popularity and accessibility, mineral wool has many significant drawbacks, which must be remembered. At the negative features of Minvati include:

1. 1. The absorption of moisture, which over time leads to the loss of the material of the original form and the technical characteristics.
2. 2. Reparatively low thermal insulation.
3. 3. The likelihood of the formation of cold bridges due to the impossibility of isolation of cotton joints between the plates.

You can also warm the house from the inside using basalt wool, it is similar to Minvatu, but much better preserves heat and its own form under negative external influences. Its positive qualities are due to the presence of natural basalt fibers, which, among other things, is able to withstand even strong temperature differences. The main lack of basalt wool is a high cost.

Foam and penplex - what is better?

The foam is also very popular with the insulation of the walls of a residential building from the inside, especially if the work is carried out with their own hands. The main difference from mineral wool is the ability to maintain its form for a long time. It does not interact with moisture, but does not miss her through himself, which is a disadvantage. The foam has very low vapor permeability characteristics, condensate remains on the insulation and does not evaporate. Low vapor permeability often leads to the formation of fungus and mold, because this insulation is not recommended to use for wet rooms.

It is not necessary to use foam and for the insulation of wooden houses, due to accumulating moisture, the structural elements of the building from natural wood can suffer. Some owners refuse to use foam, considering it too flammable. In fact, modern foam production involves adding special anti-view that prevents the fire and creating a peculiar barrier to spread the place indoors, since under the influence of high temperatures, the foam simply disintegrates and carbon dioxide that are not burning.

The insulation of the walls of the house from the inside can be performed and with the help of a more modern species of foam - foam. It is highly density from foam, which has a positive effect on the necessary soaplitel thickness, which means it is much better suited for the thermal insulation of the house from the inside. Polyurex is completely safe for humans, it is actively used in the construction of private houses, children's and public institutions.

Polyurethane - Is it easy to use?

Polyurethane has a good degree of thermal insulation and is considered the best material for the insulation of concrete walls. Even the thin layer of the mounting foam (several centimeters) is quite enough to significantly improve the microclimate in residential areas. Typically, polyurethane is used for the insulation of thin outer walls, which requires maximum warming with as a smaller thickness of the heat insulator. An important advantage of the mounting foam is that she has no joints, because of which the cold bridges could have formed.

Practically in all characteristics, polyurethane exceeds its main competitors in the thermal insulation market - mineral wool and foam. The main disadvantage of this material is the high complexity of installation work. It is possible to warm the wall by mounting foam from the inside, only professionals possessing special expensive equipment are capable of inside. Buy equipment for mixing and spraying polyurethane on the walls for one-time use is meaningless, much cheaper and more efficient to contact the specialists already having the necessary equipment and can use it correctly.

Montage of Minvati and Equations in a frame house

The most difficult task for the thermal insulation of the Minvata is to create a sealed vapor barrier layer, which should protect the material from moisture and condensate. It is best for insulation to use plates from mineral or basalt wool, corresponding to the size of the distance between the vertical racks of the frame house. If this distance is 60 cm, then the plates should be the same size. The density of the slabs used should be more than 30 kg / m 3 with a sheet thickness of 5 cm.

The number of layers of the insulation in each case should be selected individually, taking into account the climatic conditions in the region. For the southern regions of Russia, there are usually 2 layers of thermal insulation, and in the northern regions, set at least 3 layers.

If the frame house has an outdoor insulation, then a vapor barrier layer is already installed in the walls, which is not necessarily duplicated to insulate the walls of the house from the inside. Install the plates of mineral wool between the vertical racks of the frame house, close them on top of a vapor barrier material from the membrane. Vaporizolation establishes braziness, and the seams are additionally fixed by the construction reinforced tape. On top of the membrane film, you need to install a tree crate on which it will be possible to hang the inner lining of the walls. For the finishing room design in a frame house, it is best to use drywall or wooden finishing materials.

Equata is a special material that is applied to the walls by spraying. You can not buy a vacuum cleaner for such work, you can just take it for rent. For applying, eco-houses use three different ways. "Dry" applying involves sputtering is an eco-house with a hose in advance prepared cavities inside the walls. The "wet" installation is mixed with water, which increases its adhesion to building materials, that is, such a mixture when spraying simply sticks to surfaces. The "adhesive" method involves adding glue to insulation, which is necessary for the grip of the composition with metal and concrete surfaces.

Warm brick building - how to act?

In brick houses you can warm the walls from the inside with a larger number of materials. The most important thing is that the funds used are characterized by good thermal insulation characteristics and have a small thickness. In the frame house, the insulation can be quite thick, as it is located directly inside the walls and does not reduce the area of \u200b\u200bthe rooms, the size of the room directly depends on the insulation thickness.

Most often for insulation of brick houses, plaster, foam and mineral wool are used. The easiest way to improve the thermal insulation characteristics of the house with your own hands with the help of plaster. This method is pre-alignment of walls, after which a layer of liquid primer is applied on the surface. Such a soil consistency will allow it to fill the gaps, slits and other minor defects of the treated surface.

The fabric reinforcing mesh is stacked on top of the primer, and from above - plaster. It has good thermal insulation characteristics, and it must be laid on the walls as evenly possible. Not only the temperature inside the house, but also the visual attractiveness of the walls depends on the quality of the work performed. The composition must be applied with a spatula in two layers. The thickness of each layer should be no more than 2 cm. To increase the thermal insulation qualities of plastered walls after soaring the facing material, it is covered with the finish layer of plaster. Small grade sand is added to the solution of liquid consistency and put it on the wall of the layer, the thickness of which should be about 5 mm.

Polyfoam also allows you to warm up the walls of a brick house from the inside. In order to achieve maximum improvement of temperature conditions in the rooms, brick walls are pre-plastered, and then align the surfaces to the perfect state of putty. Smooth walls are needed in order for the foam to the maximum firmly lightened to the covered surfaces.

A layer of waterproofing is placed on top of the prepared wall in the form of a vapor barrier film or liquid primer, after which the installation of foam sheets begins. The easiest way is to fix the insulation on a flat surface with a special glue. The glue can be applied both on the walls and the insulating material itself. Then the sheets are tightly applied to the wall and pressed until the glue is grabbed. In order to have a cold bridges in the process of operating the rooms, individual sheets of foam should be as close as possible to each other. From above, the foam is closed with vapor barrier and proceed to the finish finish of the walls.

Mineral wool requires preliminary hydro and vaporizolation. After installing isolation, we set a vertical crate of metal or wooden profiles. The distance between profiles or slats should be equal to the width of the insulation slabs. Mounting mineral wool between profiles. If the thickness of the layers of Minvati is greater than the thickness of the crate, the insulation must immediately fix the vapor barrier film. On top of the insulation to the profiles secure the crate to install the finishing facing layer.

Winter can deliver pleasant emotions. But only in the case when you can enter the house and enjoy it warm. To make it without unnecessary heating costs, you need to take care in advance about the thermal housing.

Features

The insulation of the walls is significantly different from the heat retention work or ceiling. Significantly resorted to the use of bulk materials. It is necessary to take measures so that the bulk of the substance does not fit under their own weight. Critical design thickness. She should not take a lot of place indoors. No less significant and severity of the insulation block: if it is very massive, you will have to strengthen the foundation, which will lead to its rise. All this means that decisive belongs to the right choice of insulating blocks and systems.

Materials

An increasing number of people are now used by Minvata "Erum". It guarantees the optimal microclimate in the residential room, regardless of the heat or chairs on the street. Its main technological characteristics are as follows:

• thermal conductivity is 0.041 W HC HC;
• effective quenching of noise running outside;
• the average density is 13 kg per 1 cubic meter. m;
• absolute protection against fire;

• reliable protection against condensate (under the condition of leaving the gap for the output of moisture of at least 20 mm);
• the minimum time of stable work is 50 years;
• perfect sanitary and environmental safety.

If the wall cannot carry a significant load, it is quite practical and convenient to insulate it "the escape". Such a solution allows you to guarantee a complete cover from the cold, whatever structural material is not used. If the air temperature on the street reaches extreme positive or negative values, thermal insulation will retain its main qualities. But do not perceive the "escape" as a universal solution. Like any mineral wool, it can have a destructive effect on the human and animal organism.

This brand comes material with various characteristics. It:

• lightweight structures;
• general construction soft plates and mats;
• mineral insulation under the pitched roof.

Installation of the insulation for the slag clock house is strictly required.When it comes to cold housing, little joy. Constructions from the slagoblock. Considerable part of masters and amateur builders are trying to insulate foam. It misses little heat and is quite durable mechanically, although it has a low density. What is very useful, there is no need to spend money and time on the installation of a waterproofing membrane.

Polyfoam is characterized by good antiseptic properties. It is not difficult to purchase it for people with any income level. But there is a serious limitation: the probability of fire. Initially, you will have to apply primer to ensure the most powerful adhesion to the base.

Mandatory condition for success will be the installation of fiberglass hardening grid. This grid is two types: for internal and external amplification. It is undesirable to be confused.

His features have insulation freewood walls. Blocks of cellular concrete contain many gas bubbles (from where and the name). They should warm in any case, regardless of the production of or without autoclave. For aerated concrete, a number of insulation are invented, but more other options in demand by varieties are foam and polyurethane foam. The second material is considered more reliable and modern. But his application without the help of a brigade with special equipment is impossible. Polyfoam and PPU are less durable, it can use them themselves homemade.

Aerated concrete can be isolated from frost and simple mineral wool. But it should be done only in the most extreme case. Wool's ability to concentrate water vapors will adversely affect the properties of the blocks. To insulate such houses will have to be from the inside. For this purpose, experts are recommended to use plastering mixtures. Moreover, it is the internal work on insulation precedes external, and not vice versa.

In many cases, builders use stone cotton. This material really deserved its reputation. It is obtained from basalt, metamorphic breeds, Mergel. Typically, construction firms acquire a basalt option for the most responsible projects. But it is equally important to take into account the level of acidity. The smaller the alkalinity of cotton insulation is expressed, the more harder, it will work longer.

To increase water resistance to stone cotton, resins from phenol formaldehyde and other additives are added. Therefore, it is important to find out what exact chemical composition of the mixture is not to encounter sudden toxic effects. Although the stone wool itself will not light up even when heated to 1000 degrees, the binders will evaporate it already at 200. Therefore, in the event of a fire or other PE, the entire insulation will have to be removed and replaced with a new one.

The advantage of such thermal insulation is also the fact that all excess moisture leaves the room or work premises without lingering in the insulation. As for negative moments, it is necessary to recall the abundant dustiness and inevitably the high price of products. Buying material, worth paying attention to its storage conditions. It is impossible to buy cotton outside the factory container and without a shrink film. Packaging is recommended to check that there is no tightness impairment. It is unacceptable to store material on the street without a canopy or awning. When stored in cardboard boxes, technological requirements forbid them to put them where at least insignificant dampness is present.

Schemes

The insulation of the concrete wall of the house from the inside is practiced in cases where the external work will not work in any way. Concrete creates many difficulties and problems in the winter, and in the apartments almost always insisted it inside. Services of industrial climbers or lifting equipment are very expensive. In addition, the project of selective thermal protection of a single apartment Housing inspection almost never considers. Doing work without negotiation - means to face the wave of fines or a deprivation of housing for municipality.

The easiest way to keep warm in a concrete house with the help of plaster. But it does not always give a decent effect. In the coldest regions or even the angular part of the house, the microclimate will not come to normal. The first actions in any case are the exposion of the structural surface and antiseptic processing. Then you have to wait for a complete drying of the substrate. Heating plaster make in three stages:

• spray;
• primer layer;
• cover (external decorative coating).

The source thin layer is a solution of 1 grade of cement and 4 (5) shares of well-sashed sand. This solution should have a liquid consistency to stay on the surface. The layout is made by a rigid spatula. The effort is attached, trying to introduce the solution deeper into the pores of the base. The total thickness of the first layer can reach 1 cm, to do it evenly over the entire surface.

The primer layer is created using typical cement plasters of the corresponding category. But it is better at this stage to make a choice in favor of a material with reduced thermal conductivity. The primer is layered with a layer from 5 to 6 cm, and it is created in three receptions. Each subsequent processing is performed only at the end of the drying of the already applied material. Next, you need to make a facial coating (not thicker 0.5 cm).

The solution for the crushes is the finishing putty, diluted with water to the liquid state. Work lead by rubbing this solution to the primer. When the treated surface dries, it is additionally improved by grouting and grinding. If such a decision is not effective enough, you will have to be facing the concrete wall with foam.

As in the previous case, without antiseptics can not do.

The dried disinfected wall is covered with an finishing liquid powder layer 0.5-1 cm for surface alignment. Then, in any case, lay waterproofing with a layer from 3 to 5 mm. The foam is glued by a specialized powder composition, which is 90-120 minutes before the start of work is stirred in water, turning into a dense homogeneous lump. You need to smear glue evenly, the sheets themselves are only enough in the center. The gluing is made with a slight pressure, joints must be dense.

Seams after gluing sheets need to be covered with putty or mounting foam. The final solidification of glue, depending on its recipe and working conditions, occurs after 48-96 hours after applying. Strengthen attachment to the wall by means of plastic dowels. The final foam plaster is carried out by polymer grid. It should be dragged into the glue, overlapping the final plaster (necessarily styled and polished).

Attractive in technical terms insulation of concrete with fibrous materials, including mineral wool. Under it will have to create a frame from a tree impregnated with antiseptic preparations. The ridge mount should be made vertically (from the top to the bottom point of the wall), the distance between the lines is approximately 0.6 m. Attach the material to the slats you need anchors, drilling 3 holes in each wooden part.

To do this, take the drill with a diameter of 0.8 cm. The rails themselves hold with the help of concrete screws. The gaps between the rails relies to lay the referenced. Over it is a cotton layer. The laying of the insulation is made in 2 or 3 levels, the insulating pairs have a foil film. It is pressed to the raiks on the building brakes. The insulating block from above is closed in decorative purposes:

• plasterboard;
• chipboard;
• plywood.

In private construction, the popularity of brick performance of houses is large. They are even more popular than concrete, because little inferior to them in strength, it is better to keep warm and more aesthetic. But the thermal qualities of the best grade bricks are not enough to protect against Russian frosts. In order to the inside of the wall, the walls are not dried condensate, and student drafts were walked around the house, you can apply:

• ceramzit;
• mineral wool;
• penoplex;
• styrofoam;

• polystyrene foam;
• warming plaster;
• EPPS;
• cork;
• environmental wool.

Outdoor insulation of polyurethane foam is carried out on a frame of wood or metal. The same material is also suitable for internal heat protection. If the house is just planned to be built, you can lay in the project internal brickwork. Such a step is no worse than special plates or rolls. First of all, put an outer wall, it raise it up to 150 cm and in the seams of the fifth or sixth rows sequentially introduce steel bars. Immediately after this, the tiles or sheets of heat shields are mounted, the internal brick row is taken.

When thermal insulation is achieved at the expense of clay, up to 150 cm raise the outer inner walls, which are separated by an interval of about 0.15 m. From this point, the construction leads to the top of the intended line. If you plan to insulate the house from the outside, this work is first carried out with the foundation and basement. The outer wall is thoroughly cleaned, only with this condition, the finish will be an effective event. Extruded PPS or foam on the outside are placed, initially aligning the walls of the plaster and grounding them.

The placement of the insulation is made using glue or steel dowels. Mounting lead up in a chess order to increase the stability of the design. If the creation of a ventilated facade is scheduled, begin with the attachment of the vapor barrier block, on top of which the framework is put. This frame is put a cotton insulation, overlapped with an additionally hydrobarier. All three insulating substances are attached to dowels.

Typical exterior finish in this case - siding.

The inner insulation of foam or EPPS on brick is not too practical. These materials are poisonous and easily burn. Before the start of insulation, antiseptic primers are applied, they effectively suppress fungal aggression. Waterproofing and precipitation protection for silicate bricks must be more thorough and thoughtful than for an ordinary ceramic block. It is recommended to use concrete to masonry with the additive of clay. Its thermal conductivity will immediately drop by 50%.

Putting the ceramisit inside the walls will be most effective when choosing a large fraction (this will reduce the load on the foundation).

When it is impossible to insulate the brick wall outside or in the middle, for internal insulation, materials are taken with the smallest permeability for water vapor. Most often it is an EPPS or a foofol with an external foil sheath. It is only important not to confuse which side of these materials should be mounted inside the room. If you have to use a material that transmits a lot of vapors, it will be necessary to overlap the film or a thin sheath of the foam irrevocable for water evaporation.

In the case of the slightest difficulties, it is more correct to entrust the insulation of a brick wall by professionals. There is also its subtleties in the insulation of the walls of the frame housing. For waterproofing such buildings, parchment is widely used, insulation takes only with foil to lower the care of steam. Typical insulating solutions - polyurethane, foam and mineral wool.

It will be necessary to make a crate of a cutting board by humidity no more than 15%. The recommended cross section of fragments of the crate is 2.5x15 cm.

Warming blocks are embedded in gaps between frame racks. Spraying insulation are underestimated by the owners of the houses completely in vain. They give an excellent result in frame buildings, and can be applied without the help of a professional brigade. The hardened polyurethane needs to be finalized (remove excess fragments and gluing the surface). Thanks to the exclusion of joints and seams, heat care will be minimal.

In old houses, the walls inside often have many cavities or one big cavity. As a result, the owners and tenants suffer from a freezing room, nothing to do with it. The cavities may also arise due to errors when laying insulation or due to its natural degradation over time. It is possible to eliminate similar trouble, if you ensure the introduction of thermal insulation through the holes done in the outer wall.

Since such manipulations are responsible and even the destruction of the house can be entrusted with errors as a whole, it will be necessary to contact professionals.

In the regions where many precipitation drops, it is unacceptable to use, including for the closure of emptiness, cavities mineral wool and basalt insulation. It is impossible to use the cerazyt. Where to it has better shown himself in such a harsh conditions for the experience of exploitation of polyurethane foam. To find out if there is a cavity in the walls of the cold room, which can be "blew" with liquid or sprayed material, will help the standard plan. In the absence of a plan, when it is inaccuracies or explicit errors, make technological holes in the seams and check the wall behind them with the movements of the wire. More sparing options are a challenge of professionals with a thermal imager or self-scanning designs by this device.

But the cold gets to the tenants of apartment buildings, in the carrier walls of which there are weak seams. Suture elements of panel structures for the most part are supplied with an additional insulation layer outside, as it is inefficient to do it from the inside. In any case, before starting work, technical regulations and construction standards should be carefully examined. If it is impossible to mount thermal insulation from the outside, its internal option should be overlapped with an inextricable, long-term steam barrier.

Most often, experts take for such purposes:

• foamed polyethylene "Vilaterm";
• mounting polyurethane foam "Macroflex" (or similar foamed polyurethanes);
• sealants that do not give precipitation (for example, Sasilast 24).

In the long time of the houses operated, the sequence of work consists of several stages:

• opening of the old seam;
• dismantling existing protection;
• rusta amendments in case of acute necessity;
• removal of dust and dirt;
• filling the space by mounting foam;

• attaching to the fresh layer of its heat insulating tubes;
• foam additives on the plots where she initially went unevenly;
• cutting hardened foam;
• waterproofing.

Cross insulation is suitable for frame buildings. The saving heat of the mats are superimposed so that the seams do not coincide with each other. Then the occurrence of the wind pierced by the wind is excluded. Frosty bridges (Wooden Details) are guaranteed. The fight against them will be successful if you add another 5 cm insulation in problem points outside over a heat shield in 15 cm.

Apartiation of Brucks of the value of 5x5 cm horizontally from the outside of the frame will be the first step. The distance between each pair of bars should be 10 mm less than the width of the insulation block. Block itself put strictly versilis. Immediately after installing all the insulation details, it is supposed to close their protection against moisture. She will cover the material from the wind action and will prevent him from falling out.

It is categorically not allowed even for the corners of the heat-stamping and pushing the material by force inside.After all, the main properties of the mineral car gives the air contained in it. Disrupting the integrity of the insulator, will not be able to keep it inside. Therefore, the house will be colder than tenants. The base overlap is insulated by almost the described scheme.

How to choose?

Now you need to find out: what insulated material is better. There is no universal response to this question. But some points are useful to keep in mind. Conducting a full-fledged thermal calculation without special knowledge is not possible: ready-made online calculators will not help or even mislead. When analyzing the properties of each coating, it is consistently analyzed:

• paropropuscability;
• thermal exchange efficiency;
• fire and chemical safety;
• the load created by the insulation layer.

Stone walls are optimally combined with mineral wool and its analogues. Even weakened in comparison with leading goods in the heat shield market is justified by excellent cost and ease, as well as making installation. Mineral version of soft and has an average thermal conductivity. Favoritely shows wool with the addition of babes of basalt. But for this manufacturers take extra money. This material is especially good on the plots, closely adjacent to the furnaces and camp.

Wool problems are due to its weak ability to hold form. Accumulating moisture, insulation heavyweights and sends. Exit is the increase in fasteners compared to the recommended placement of them.Warming of wooden or frame buildings with cotton materials is not too practical. They will be useful in cases where the walls need a very small additional isolation. Styrene and substances based on it are better protecting the form and resistant to temperature turbines.

The excellent heat capacity allows to provide intense heat-stash thin walls.

Among the foam is recommended to choose products under the marking of SPB-C, denoting the addition of flames. If there are no, it is better not to use the material at all. Penoplex is recommended for insulation adjoining to the roof. Polyurex is worth using to sow walls from the inside. There he will absorb quite a bit of space.

Preparatory work

If the insulation of the wall for one reason or another is planned to be carried out from the inside, preparation consists in:

• maximum drying surface;
• mounting vaporizolation;
• laying waterproofing.

Before applying foam it is better to mount formwork. It will save the surface as soon as possible and make a layer particularly reliable. The frame is coated (wrapped) with thermal insulating material, otherwise it will turn into an entrance gate for frost. If you finish a brick wall, everything is cleaned with it (up to the very base). The approach to concrete is similar. Dirt is removed by a vacuum cleaner, visible fungal lesions are easy to eliminate, finishing the surface with brushes and emery paper.

How to insulate with your own hands?

Step-by-step instructions for installation of thermal insulation from expanded polystyrene is easy. Such material is recommended for laying on a tree, brick, the mount is performed equally. The dry method is used with limited timing. Wet technique requires the introduction of material in the wall groove and its natural drying of 48-72 hours. With sharply adverse meteo conditions, these deadlines increase significantly.

Under the polystyrene is suitable only perfectly smooth walls. This material is different fragility. If you start it to customize to the surface with a significant terrain, the plates can crack. It is desirable to eliminate all the differences of 3 mm. Paint with low permeability for the couple will have to be removed. For fastening you need to use special glue. Be sure to apply primer.

If it is decided to apply Mineral Wat, it is worth staying on modifications "Line Rock". It guarantees ecological purity and excellent insulation from noise. When choosing various materials, it is necessary to immediately clarify:

• their total length and width;
• the possibility of cutting;
• desirable ways to join.

It is necessary to wait after applying the primer about 4 hours, even if the manufacturer promises a faster drying. Turning for help to hired installers, it should be carefully monitored as the dowels and glue actually they use.