When construction is nearing completion, developers are faced with the question: what to cover the house with? There is currently a huge range of facade finishing materials on the market, which complicates the choice. Therefore, in this article I decided to talk about the five most popular finishing options and their features in order to answer the question posed above.

Sheathing options

So, currently the most popular types of finishes are:

Option 1: wooden coverings

If you don’t know what to cover a wooden house with, then my advice is to use wooden finishing materials, such as:

• lining - flat finishing board;
• block house - a finishing board whose front side has a cylindrical shape;
• planken - finishing board with beveled edges.

Wooden finishing boards have a number of advantages:

• are natural and environmentally friendly material;
• wood is known to have good heat and sound insulation properties, which will make your home even more comfortable;
• has vapor permeability - thanks to this, finishing a wooden house with wood will not disturb the indoor microclimate;
• wood looks beautiful, in addition, the use of imitation timber or logs will preserve the original appearance of wooden housing.

However, at the same time, wooden materials also have some disadvantages:

• require periodic maintenance, which includes treatment with protective impregnations, opening with varnish, etc.;
• Wood is susceptible to rotting and moisture, however, the use of impregnations makes wooden materials resistant to these negative factors.

Keep in mind that the properties of wooden finishing materials also depend on the type of wood.

For outdoor use, it is advisable to purchase materials from moisture-resistant wood species, such as:

• pine;
• larch, etc.

Also, keep in mind that wood materials come in different grades, which determine the quality. As an example, let's look at the features of different types of lining:

There is also a third grade, however, it is not suitable for finishing the facade of a house, so we will not consider it.

It must be said that the price of the lining is quite affordable, especially for inexpensive types of wood:

As for the installation of wooden materials, they can be used to cover walls using the “curtain facade” technology. To do this, a frame is mounted on the walls, to which the lining or other covering is attached. At the same time, a vapor barrier can also be laid in the space between the sheathing and the wall, as shown in the diagram above.

Option 2: vinyl siding

Vinyl siding is an inexpensive and practical material that is perfect for those who are looking for a cheaper way to cover their home.

Its advantages include:

• attractive appearance, in addition, there is a large selection of colors on sale;
• durability is about 25 years (some models last 50 years);
• does not require maintenance and is easy to clean;
• not subject to negative biological influences;
• does not burn, but only melts under the influence of high temperatures.

For these reasons, vinyl siding is one of the most common siding materials. Its installation is also carried out using the “ventilated facade” technology, so the finishing does not affect the vapor permeability of the walls.

When purchasing vinyl siding, you should pay attention to the color and structure of the plastic. It should be smooth and uniform. If impurities or graininess are visible, then the material is of low quality, and accordingly, it is better to discard it, since problems can begin after a few years.

Below are prices for vinyl siding from some well-known manufacturers:

Option 3: thermal panels

Thermal panels are a relatively new type of finishing materials.

Their feature is the presence of two layers:

• base - is an insulation material, which can be used as polyurethane foam, extruded polystyrene foam or ordinary polystyrene foam (foam);
• decorative coating – serves to protect the insulation from external influences, and also decorates the facade. For these purposes, clinker tiles, porcelain tiles, marble chips, quartz granite, etc. can be used.

As you can see, thermal panels are a combined material that serves not only as cladding, but also as insulation.

Among their other advantages, the following points can be highlighted:

• ease of installation;
• the panels are connected to each other in a lock, as a result of which cold bridges are eliminated;
• allow you to give the facade an attractive appearance.

However, this material also has some disadvantages:

• high price;
• low vapor permeability or even its complete absence (depending on the type of insulation). This can lead to moisture accumulation between the wall and the insulation. Therefore, if you are interested in cladding a wooden house, you should pay attention to other materials;
• the cost is often higher than separately for insulation and facade finishing material.

Thermal panels are installed using special dowels. No glue is used. As a rule, thermal panels are mounted without a frame.

Below are the prices for thermal panels that you can find on the domestic market:

Thermal panels covered with porcelain stoneware or clinker tiles require grouting of the joints after installation.

Thus, if you want to cover your house inexpensively, it is better to pay attention to other materials.

Option 4: wet facade

Another currently popular type of home decoration is the “wet facade”. The principle of this technology is to cover the walls with insulation (usually mineral wool or polystyrene foam), which is subsequently reinforced and covered with decorative plaster.

This cladding method has quite a few advantages:

• allows you to insulate the house, and thus make it more comfortable and energy efficient;
• the facade acquires a presentable appearance;
• for a wet facade, you can use inexpensive materials and thereby save money;
• The installation technology is quite simple, so you can do the work yourself.

True, along with the advantages, the “wet facade” also has a number of disadvantages:

• the finishing turns out to be unstable to mechanical stress, since the insulation is protected only by a thin layer of glue, reinforced with fiberglass mesh, and covered with decorative plaster on top;
• finishing is a seasonal job, since installation cannot be done at sub-zero temperatures;
• durability is lower than that of the finishing materials described above. In addition, finishing using this method requires strict adherence to technology.

For effective thermal insulation, the thickness of the insulation must be at least 100 mm, and for northern regions - 150 mm. If you use foam plastic as insulation, its density should be at least 25 kg/m3. Mineral mats must have a density of 100-125 kg/m3, otherwise the finish will not be strong enough.

Brief instructions for installing a curtain wall look like this:

1. work begins with preparing the facade - the hanging elements are dismantled, peeling areas are removed, if any, and the surface of the walls is primed with two layers of façade primer;

1. Next, the insulation is glued to the wall using special glue. The slabs should be placed on the wall in a checkerboard pattern, as shown in the photo above, and with bandaging in the corners.
   When gluing the slabs, it is necessary to ensure that they are located in the same vertical plane, otherwise the walls will turn out crooked. Therefore, it is imperative to use a level and beacons;
2. then the insulation is additionally fixed with special dowels with wide caps. Dowels are located in the corners at the joints of the plates, as well as two in the center, as shown in the diagram below;

1. then the slopes are covered with thinner insulation;
2. then the surface is prepared for reinforcement - the gaps between the slabs are filled with foam or scraps of insulation, and all irregularities are smoothed over with a special grater. In addition, you should stick perforated corners on all outer corners with your own hands;

1. after this, reinforcement is performed - the fiberglass mesh is glued with the same glue that was used to glue the insulation. The mesh should overlap and always be turned at the corners;
2. then the reinforced insulation is covered with another layer of glue several millimeters thick. This operation is reminiscent of puttying, since its task is to level the surface;
3. then the surface is primed with two layers of façade primer;

1. At the end of the work, decorative plaster is applied to the surface, after which the facade is painted. This operation does not contain any special features and is performed according to the standard procedure.

This completes the finishing.

Option 5: clinker tile cladding

Finally, let’s look at a material such as clinker tiles. It can be recommended to those who are primarily interested in the durability of the finish. After all, many manufacturers provide a 100-year guarantee on clinker tiles.

Of course, durability is not the only advantage of the material, as it also has other positive qualities:

• attractive appearance - clinker tiles, as a rule, have the shape of a brick. Therefore, a wall finished with it is almost impossible to distinguish from brickwork. Moreover, there is a large assortment of colors on sale;
• maintains an attractive appearance throughout its entire service life;
• has sufficiently high strength;
• protects walls from moisture and other negative influences.

The disadvantages include high cost. In addition, in order to properly stick tiles on walls, you need to have some experience. Therefore, it is better to entrust the work to specialists.

Below is the cost of clinker tiles from various well-known manufacturers:

Here, in fact, are all the methods of finishing a facade that I wanted to introduce you to in this article.

Conclusion

There are quite a lot of options for covering a house, so I tried to talk about the most popular ones today. As for the choice, everyone must decide for themselves, taking into account the cost of materials, design, and finishing tasks.

I also recommend watching the video in this article, which contains additional information on the topic discussed. If you have questions that you haven’t found an answer to, ask them in the comments, and I will definitely answer you.

Wood is a durable and beautiful building material that, with proper care, will last for many decades. At the same time, wood is quite an expensive material, especially when it comes to various types of well-dried timber, so the walls are made thinner, and heat loss is reduced with additional insulation and external cladding. We will talk about the requirements for cladding material, and also compare different materials to determine which one is better suited for a wooden house. In addition, we recommend organizing a ventilation system (ventilated facade) for any cladding, because this approach extends the service life of the wood and reduces the requirements for cladding materials. We will try to answer the most important question - what is the best way to sheathe the outside of a wooden house so that it is cheap and beautiful.

Requirements for cladding materials

Any cladding material must meet the following requirements:

• fire resistance;
• resistance to precipitation;
• resistance to temperature changes;
• UV resistance;
• ease of installation;
• low price.

Fire resistance– one of the most important parameters for cladding material (cladding). It is clear that if there is a strong fire near the house, then any material will catch fire, but it should be very difficult to set it on fire with a match and paper, or even pouring gasoline on it. In addition, the cladding should not be afraid of rain or snow, that is, precipitation should not lead to its destruction. Another condition is resistance to temperature changes. If the facing material strongly absorbs water, then when the temperature drops to negative values, the water in the outer layers will freeze and tear the material. UV resistance protects the cladding from discoloration under the influence of sunlight - the more resistant the material, the less it fades over time. Equally important are parameters such as ease of installation and cost of material. After all, the use of difficult-to-install material increases overall costs, because it is necessary to use special technologies or equipment, to which not everyone has access.

Sheathing materials

Here is a list of the most popular materials for cladding wooden houses:

• various thermal panels;
• reinforcing mesh and plaster;
• PVC siding;
• metal siding;
• wood-cellulose siding;
• fiber cement siding and panels;
• fake diamond;
• block house;
• board;
• waterproof OSB (Oriented Strand Board) and plywood.

Thermal panels- the simplest finishing option, because they combine polystyrene or foam insulation and various external finishes. The most popular panels are those with a brick finish. However, to install them, you must first install the bars of the ventilated facade. Plaster with reinforcing mesh can be applied to any hard surface, so it is often used if a wooden house is insulated with foam plastic or highly compressed mineral wool. This finishing scheme is very popular - mesh + glue + bark beetle plaster.

All types of siding are mounted on an insulated ventilated facade with wooden bars or metal profiles. Siding is the simplest method of exterior finishing of a room, the only difference is the cost of materials. The advantage of siding is that you can use both classic rectangular panels and “log-like” panels. Fiber cement panels are used if it is necessary to increase the fire resistance of a house, because this material is ten times more difficult to set on fire than even timber treated with pyrophobic impregnation. After finishing the house with fiber cement boards, the cladding must be painted with waterproof paints. Artificial stone is tried on for finishing a ventilated facade. To install it, the facade must be covered with a hard material, such as fiber cement board, OSB or plywood. Then the artificial stone is glued to the facade, using the same reinforcing mesh as for plaster.

Block house, that is, a board whose outer part imitates a rounded log. Covering a wooden house with a block house allows you to restore its exterior to some extent, demonstrating to everyone the aesthetic taste of the owner and his desire to live in a house made of natural materials. A house covered with a block house must be regularly treated with antiseptics and impregnations. Read about how to choose antiseptics and impregnations in this article (I think it’s called how to choose impregnations or antiseptics, I don’t remember exactly). The advantage of a block house over other materials is its very high vapor permeability, therefore the requirements for façade ventilation are much lower. Another wood material is carriage board. It is cheaper than a block house and creates a more primitive exterior of the house, but has all the performance qualities of a block house.

OSB and plywood used in three cases:

• when it is necessary to create a hard, rigid surface for applying plaster;
• for cladding outbuildings;
• for cladding for painting.

Waterproof plywood and OSB have all the disadvantages and advantages of boards and block houses, however, they are much cheaper. Therefore, they are used for cladding inexpensive houses and outbuildings where there are no high requirements for the exterior.

Cost of finishing materials for cladding a wooden house

Below we have provided average cost data posted on the websites of stores selling finishing materials:

1. Russian-made thermal panels, 60–80 mm thick, panel size 100x68 cm (length and width), cost per panel 1000–2300 rubles, cost per m² 1600–3400 rubles.
2. Reinforcing mesh for plaster (glue + bark beetle plaster) will cost 20–50 rubles per m² of mesh. The cost of one bag of dry plaster (20 kg) is 150–300 rubles, with a consumption rate of 2–4 kg m². That is, one bag is enough for 5–10 square meters. The cost of one bag of bark beetle plaster (20–25 kg) is 150–500 rubles, with a consumption rate of 3–6 kg per m². That is, one bag is enough for 3–8 m².
3. PVC siding - price per m² excluding the cost of lathing is 100–300 rubles.
4. Metal siding - price per m² excluding the cost of sheathing is 200–700 rubles.
5. Wood-cellulose siding - price per m² excluding the cost of lathing is 60–200 rubles.
6. Fiber cement siding and panels – price per m² is 1–3 thousand rubles.
7. Artificial stone - price per m² 600–3000 rubles.
8. Block house made of dry boards - price per m² 200–600 rubles.
9. Boards (lining) made of coniferous and deciduous wood 150–250 rubles per m², from valuable wood 300–700 rubles per m².
10. Moisture-resistant plywood and OSB 12–16 mm thick price per m² 150–250 rubles.

Conclusion

The correct choice of material for finishing a wooden house will allow you to achieve the desired effect at minimal cost. After all, the cladding is not only a decorative element, but also protects the insulation and walls from external influences. By choosing one or another coating, you can dramatically change the exterior of the house, both emphasizing that it is made of wood and harmoniously coordinating it with other buildings in the area.

Currently, the question of how to cover the outside of a house is very relevant for many owners. Now there are a large number of materials that can completely transform a structure. In addition, they can make it more comfortable, warm, respectable and practical. Next, we’ll take a closer look at the best way to sheathe the outside of a house.

General information

Many people wonder: how to cover the outside of a wooden house. Today there are several profitable options. As a rule, people tend to choose the least expensive one. What is the best way to cover the outside of a house?

Costly way

It consists of building a brick wall around the entire perimeter of the house. In essence, this option requires a colossal investment of funds. First of all, this applies to the arrangement of a new foundation. At the same time, its “linking” with the old foundation is a prerequisite.

Advantages and disadvantages

The connection to the roof creates a lot of additional problems. In fact, the building receives completely new walls. It should be noted that in this case the house will become much warmer. It will be less susceptible to changes in temperature and humidity. This option cannot be fully called building cladding. In essence, the walls are covered with bricks. This, as already mentioned, is a very expensive option. How to cover the outside of a house cheaply?

Popular materials

How can you cover the outside of a house? Some popular materials include:

1. Siding.
2. Block house.
3. Imitation of timber.
4. Finishing quarter.
5. Planken.
6. Wooden lining.

Each of the above materials has its own characteristics. These should be taken into account before covering the outside of the house.

Common option

Many owners decide to cover their house with clapboard. On the outside, this finish is considered optimal. There are several types of material. For example, euro or regular lining. The first has its own characteristics. They consist of additional processing, which is carried out using special compounds that significantly improve the technical parameters of the lining. Thus, it becomes less susceptible to atmospheric phenomena. Thanks to this, its service life increases.

Differences encountered

All wooden lining is equipped with installation grooves. They greatly facilitate installation work. In addition, thanks to them, the strength of the structure increases. It is worth noting that in most cases the grooves of the eurolining are located deeper than in other variations. There are several types of wood that are used in the manufacture of this facing material. The most popular include larch and pine. Birch, ash and oak are expensive options.

Main advantages

When deciding what to cover the outside of a house with, home craftsmen choose materials that have certain qualities. First of all, the exterior decoration should ensure heat retention. Wooden lining significantly contributes to the heat and sound insulation of the building. This material is quite resistant to oxidative processes. However, the tree needs additional processing. In particular, various compositions are used. They help combat the effects of insects, mold and mildew.

Planken

When choosing what to cover the outside of a wooden house with, many people prefer this particular material. The external features of the planken are similar to those described above. In this case, there is a lack of connecting grooves. Planken, as a rule, has beveled or straight ribs. Installation work is carried out end-to-end. However, the required technological clearances should be taken into account. Thanks to them, the facade will be well ventilated. The advantages of the material include practicality, cost-effectiveness and ease of installation. Planken does not imply additional interventions during shrinkage of the structure or drying of the material.

Finishing quarter

This material is also not equipped with spike-type fasteners. However, it is slightly different from planken. The finishing quarter is distinguished by the presence of technological grooves, which are located on the ribs. They are designed for overlapping panels. By analogy with planken, this material is used to create a ventilated facade.

Block house

It is one of the types of lining. The block house is a plank made of natural wood. Its front side has a spherical shape. There is an external resemblance to a rounded beam. The back side is flat. It has technological ventilation slots. The ribs are equipped with mounting elements, which is also observed with conventional lining.

Main features

The materials used to make a block house can be different. Currently, coniferous trees are the most popular. Larch is also often used. During the manufacturing process, the materials must undergo thorough drying. Thus, the block house becomes more durable and wear-resistant. This is its advantage over conventional lining. This material is considered one of the most practical and economical. Before covering the outside of a house using a block house, you should take into account its disadvantages. These include, in particular, poor vapor permeability. In this case, there is a high probability of cracking. For this reason, during installation work it is necessary to use special compounds that are designed for processing the block house.

Imitation of timber

When choosing what to cover the outside of a frame house with, many choose this material. The obvious differences between imitation timber include the front surface, which is flat. This material is very similar to profiled timber. Thanks to him, the house will look very respectable. Imitation of timber can significantly transform the appearance of the entire structure.

Siding

It is one of the most modern options. Every year, “siding” cladding of a wooden house is gaining more and more popularity. The material is easy to install. In addition, it does not require special care.

Exceptional benefits

There are two common versions of this material - metal and vinyl. The latter is made of PVC. At the same time, vinyl siding is one of the cheapest options for cladding a building. This material has one peculiar advantage. It is able to “imitate” most natural materials. In addition, installation and maintenance are extremely simple. Siding is quite fire resistant. However, its environmental friendliness cannot be compared with natural materials, since it is significantly inferior to them. In some cases, this factor turns out to be key. Then the owners should think about choosing a different material for cladding. Metal siding also has certain advantages. It is resistant to a variety of microorganisms and atmospheric phenomena. This material is considered quite durable. Its service life is enviable. At the same time, throughout the entire service it continues to maintain its shape. However, it is worth noting some nuances. A wooden building sheathed with metal siding requires additional insulation. It is also worth noting that the panels themselves are quite massive. It is natural that such a material is suitable for finishing buildings with a stable frame. It is necessary to lay any roll insulation in advance before sheathing the outside of the house. It is recommended to use strong and dense material.

How to cover the outside of a brick house?

The finishing in this case has some peculiarities. It should be noted that brick is a very durable building material. It is believed that a structure erected with its help does not require special finishing. However, this stereotype is not confirmed in practice. In reality, the cladding of brick buildings is observed quite often. The following materials are mainly used for it:

1. Thermal panels.
2. Tile.
3. Siding.

Moreover, their purpose is not only an aesthetic function. They are also capable of significantly insulating a building. Only its owner decides what and how to cover a house. However, it is worth learning more about the most popular materials and the elements associated with their installation.

To carry out the work, as a rule, the following tools are required:

Thermal panels

This cladding option began to gain popularity relatively recently. Any thermal panels consist of two layers: the outer one is clinker tiles, the inner one is polystyrene foam or polyurethane foam. In this case, the tiles serve to decorate the structure. At the same time, polyurethane foam acts as insulation.

Stone or tile?

If one of these materials was chosen for the cladding, then it is necessary to take into account some nuances. The glue must have good frost resistance. You should not use a cement-based composition. The fact is that it does not absorb water. Thus, peeling occurs. To apply the glue you will need a notched trowel. It is recommended to clean the work surface from dirt and dust in advance. Only then can you start priming. The glue is evenly distributed over the brick using a notched trowel. Stone and tiles are laid out horizontally. It is recommended to use the frost-resistant mass as a grout. When mixing it, it is recommended to carefully read the instructions from the manufacturers. For example, too much water can cause discoloration or reduced strength. When choosing a natural stone, you should also take into account a number of nuances. It is known that granite and marble are heavy. Accordingly, not every building can withstand such cladding. For lighter options, you can choose sandstone or limestone.

In truth, a wooden house is endowed with a special specific atmosphere, which has a beneficial effect on the feeling of comfort of all household members and guests, because even its walls can breathe as if “alive”. But such pleasure also requires special care, in particular high-quality finishing of external walls, which should perform not only decorative, but also a combination of heat-insulating and protective functions. To perform this kind of task, there is a whole technology for cladding a wooden house, which this article will discuss.

First of all, it is necessary to remember that all work related to finishing a wooden house can only be carried out after a certain time has passed after its construction. This is due to the shrinkage of the house, the period of which depends on the wood of the constructed structure. So, for a house made from wild felled trees, cladding can be done no earlier than 2 years. For houses made of timber, the shrinkage period ranges from 6 months to 1 year. The only exception is glued and profiled timber, houses from which can be finished almost immediately.

Very often, owners of wooden houses, in which residence is seasonal, generally refuse to sheath the house. And this is, in principle, correct, since wood, in the case of high-quality processing, is beautiful in itself, and accordingly it simply does not make sense to insulate this kind of house. In all other cases, covering the house is advisable and will not only give it a well-groomed and beautiful appearance for many years, but also protect the tree from negative environmental impacts. The technology of cladding a wooden house can be divided into the following stages:

Insulation of the house and subsequent finishing work are usually carried out in the summer. Sheathing a house can be done with your own hands without resorting to the help of professionals, since there are no particular difficulties in this process. You just need to select all the materials correctly and strictly follow the step-by-step instructions for each block of work, which are described in detail below.

Preparatory work and installation of vapor barrier

Preparatory work consists of treating the wooden walls of the house with special emulsions that prevent the infection and spread of various fungi and harmful insects. Such procedures are necessary, first of all, because after applying all layers of insulation and finishing, subsequent access to the walls will be closed, so it is very important keep safe and preservation of the tree.

In order to maintain natural air circulation in the walls of a wooden house, a vapor barrier layer is installed, which can be polyethylene film, aluminum foil, bitumen roofing felt and a special vapor barrier. As a rule, the first option is used for a wooden house, since it combines an acceptable cost and the fulfillment of all the tasks assigned to such a material. Please note that between the walls and such a layer there must be certain free space. Therefore, if the house is built from flat logs, and not from round ones, it is necessary to build a frame from slats, 2-3 cm thick, which are nailed to the walls in a vertical position at a distance of 40-50 cm and install film on them.

The vapor barrier layer is laid according to the following algorithm:

Features of thermal and waterproofing of a wooden house

Before you start insulating your house, you need to select a suitable heat insulator and calculate its required quantity. Considering the characteristics of a material such as wood, the choice of suitable insulation is quite small and comes down to almost one most rational option. For the purpose of a more detailed visual perception, we present to your attention several types of heat insulator for a wooden house:

1. Foam boards. This material has high heat retention and sound insulation properties. Quite easy to install and not susceptible to various pests. Despite all the advantages, many experts consider it a very serious mistake to use polystyrene foam as insulation for a wooden house. This is due to the inability to allow air to pass through, which over time can cause wood to rot. In addition, it is not fire resistant and not environmentally friendly, which is also not entirely suitable for such a natural material as wood;
2. Penoplex. This is a relatively new material that is made by extrusion. It has a very high level of thermal insulation, is fire resistant, and is not susceptible to the spread of bacteria and fungi. But penoplex has the same disadvantage as the previous material, namely, it is vapor-tight and, moreover, difficult to cut and install.
3. Mineral wool. The most commonly used material for external insulation of a wooden house. Air flows pass well through the insulation, which has a beneficial effect on the condition of the tree. Quite easy to install and adjustable. Mineral wool is environmentally friendly and non-flammable material. The disadvantage is that the slightest ingress of moisture due to a violation of the laying technology of this material can lead to the loss of all thermal insulation properties throughout the year.

Based on the above, the most acceptable option for insulating a wooden house is mineral wool, for installation of which the tiled form is best suited.

On an already installed vapor barrier layer it is necessary install the frame system, into which mineral wool slabs will be installed. This will require vertically nailed wooden boards (thickness and width approximately 50 and 100 mm, respectively), the distance between which is 2-3 cm less than the width of the mineral wool slab. Thus, the heat insulator will fit tightly to the base without any additional fasteners. Mineral wool is very easy to install, and inserting the slabs into the frame will not be difficult. If desired, you can use two layers of insulation. In this case, the second level of heat insulation must be installed at the joints of the slabs of the first layer.

After the entire frame is filled with insulation, lay special waterproofing film. It is worth paying attention to the correct location of this material in relation to the mineral wool. The uneven rough side must be adjacent to the heat insulator, and the smooth side must face outward. The film is attached in the same way as the vapor barrier layer using a stapler to the frame with an overlap, and all joints and staples are sealed with self-adhesive tape. Boards are nailed onto the existing frame system (width - 50 mm, height - 40 mm). This sheathing will perform two functions. Firstly, this creates additional space for air circulation, and secondly, such a system will serve as a frame for finishing the house.

Options for exterior finishing of a wooden house

The choice of finishing material depends entirely on the taste preferences of the owner of the house and the aesthetic goals pursued. There are two ways to move forward. The first is to preserve the appearance of a real wooden house and give it a well-groomed appearance. The second implies more modern external finishing solutions, both color and texture, which will not be related to wood in any way. So, let's look at the most popular ways to give a particular appearance to a house:

There are many more different finishing materials, but as practice shows, the options described above are the most suitable for cladding a wooden house. The main thing is to decide whether you want to maintain the wooden appearance of the tree or bring in something new and interesting. We hope that our tips and recommendations for carrying out all stages of work on cladding a wooden house will help you in this difficult, but at the same time enjoyable task.

Video instructions for cladding a wooden house

You need to approach the issue of cladding a wooden house carefully, having carefully planned and thought through the entire process at the stage of developing a private building project. This priority is due to the fact that not only the presentability of the facade, but also the resistance of the building to various external influences (temperature changes, humidity, wind and harsh solar radiation) will depend on the quality of the finishing.

The modern market of construction and finishing materials is able to offer a wide range of products of various types and price categories. Often a person who has recently decided to furnish his new home has many difficulties associated with the correct choice of cladding for a wooden house. Therefore, it is important to know the basic parameters that finishing materials must comply with.

Selection of finishing material

Modern construction technologies provide us with a fairly large range of finishing materials that meet all the necessary requirements. However, each of these materials has its own characteristics in terms of both the decorative design of the house and its immediate functional characteristics. It should be noted that, due to their specific nature, not all existing materials are suitable for finishing wooden buildings. Let's consider the most optimal cladding options.

Wooden lining

Wood lining allows you to preserve the natural and natural appearance of the house, while significantly improving its external design and functional characteristics. It is a flat board that is easily mounted and joined to adjacent ones in the longitudinal direction using special spikes.

On a note! This material is absolutely environmentally friendly, high strength, and also provides an excellent level of temperature and acoustic insulation.

The main disadvantage of wooden lining is its relative vulnerability to insects and rodents. This problem is partially solved by treating the surface with special protective agents. The second disadvantage of the material is fading, so a house with this finish should be painted approximately every three years.

GOST 8242-88. Profile parts made of wood and wood materials for construction. Technical conditions. File for download.

Prices for wooden lining

Wooden lining

Block house

In fact, a block house is a type of wooden lining. It is made only from coniferous trees. The main difference between this finish is the shape of its elements - this material imitates cylindrical logs. The internal surface of the block house is flat, which simplifies the installation process using the tongue-and-groove technology. Unlike ordinary wooden lining, a block house has better protection against weather conditions and insects. However, it should be noted that the price of this material is significantly higher, which, of course, is its main disadvantage.

finishing the facade of a wooden house with a block house

Block house prices

Block house

Vinyl siding

This material has excellent resistance to high positive temperatures. It practically does not deform and has a low coefficient of thermal expansion. In addition, vinyl siding is easy to maintain, easy to clean, and does not require periodic repainting. The available color range is so wide that anyone can choose a shade to their liking. Vinyl panels can be installed not only using self-tapping screws, but also using regular nails.

Vinyl siding - technical specifications

But even such a functional material has its drawbacks. It is intended for use in countries with temperate and warm climates, so it does not tolerate extreme cold well. The strength of the material is also low; vinyl panels require quite careful handling. In addition, when choosing this type of siding, keep in mind that when exposed to direct sunlight, dark-colored panels can noticeably fade within a couple of years.

Metal siding

This finishing material, in comparison with vinyl, does not have a number of key disadvantages. First of all, it is much more protected from fading in the sun. This allows you to safely use siding in darker colors without the risk of getting a faded facade on the sunny side of the house in two or three years. In addition, even at very low temperatures the metal does not lose its strength and wear resistance.

There are three main disadvantages of metal siding:

• susceptibility to corrosion in case of violation of the outer protective layer;
• vulnerability to impact loads and the possibility of profile deformation;
• high coefficient of thermal conductivity (metal quickly heats up and cools down).

Siding prices

PVC panels

Panels made of polyvinyl chloride are identical in characteristics to vinyl siding, since they represent one of its varieties. However, in terms of creating original design solutions, PVC elements give builders greater opportunities. Such panels allow you to create high-quality imitation of stone, brick and marble surfaces, and are also easily combined with standard vinyl siding, which allows you to give building facades a unique and exclusive look.

Prices for PVC cladding panels

Facing PVC panels

Preparatory work

The main part of the preparation for the process of insulation and cladding of a wooden building consists of sanitizing its walls with the help of special chemicals designed to protect the wood from infection by fungus, harmful insects and rodents. In addition, it is mandatory to lay a special vapor barrier layer between the internal walls and the external thermal insulation layer.

As a rule, it is:

• polyethylene;
• aluminium foil;
• bitumen roofing felt;
• vapor barrier made of special materials.

The most optimal price/quality ratio is polyethylene, since it can significantly reduce the financial costs of covering a house.

Installing a vapor barrier involves maintaining a small air gap between it and the wall of the building. Therefore, if the walls are flat on the outside, before laying the film, a frame should be built on them from slats about 3 centimeters thick, nailing them in increments of about half a meter. After this, special ventilation holes must be made in the slats in all four directions and proceed directly to the installation of the vapor barrier. The film is nailed to the slats or round logs of the wall with nails or a construction stapler with an overlap at intervals of about 15 centimeters. Upon completion of this stage, the joints and placement of fasteners must be sealed with special construction tape.

Selection of thermal insulation material

After successful completion of all preparatory work, you can begin to create a thermal insulation layer of the sheathing. Due to the specificity of a material such as wood, the best choice would be to use mineral wool slabs. However, various options are possible.

Table No. 1. Materials for insulating the facade of a wooden house.

It should be noted that polystyrene foam and penoplex are used extremely rarely for insulating wooden houses, so it is recommended to opt for mineral wool.

Prices for mineral wool

Features of the process of thermal and waterproofing of wooden houses

A wooden frame made of vertically nailed boards is mounted on top of the previously installed vapor barrier layer. It is optimal to use a board 10 cm wide and 5 cm thick. The frame elements must be positioned in such a way that the distance between them is 2 centimeters less than the width of the mineral slabs. This will allow for a tighter fit of the insulating material without the use of additional fasteners.

The next stage of covering a wooden house is the installation of a waterproofing film on top of the insulation layer. Pay attention to the correct orientation of the film in relation to the mineral wool blocks: the rough surface should be directed towards the insulation, and the smooth surface should be directed outwards. As at the stage of work on installing a vapor barrier, fastening occurs using a construction stapler with an overlap, followed by gluing the staples and joints with tape.

When the waterproofing is installed, it is necessary to nail another layer of boards on top of the previously created frame, on which the external finishing elements will be placed at the final stage. The recommended wood thickness is 4 cm with a width of 5 cm.

Prices for windproof membranes

Windproof membrane

Carrying out external finishing works

External work is the final stage of finishing a house, which requires special care and a thorough approach. Not only the aesthetics of the facade, but also the functionality of the previously created insulating layers will largely depend on the quality of installation of the external cladding elements.

Installation of block house and wooden lining

The process of securing wooden lining is carried out as follows.

Table No. 2. Cladding the facade with clapboard.

Installation of vinyl and metal siding

A general scenario for installing vinyl siding includes:

• installation on the frame of the starting bar;
• installation of corners and H-shaped connecting strips;
• fastening and installation of siding panels;
• installation of the finishing strip and fixation of the final tier.

The starting strip is fixed around the entire perimeter of the building or that part of it that will be sheathed with vinyl. Since the plank will be covered from above by a row of panels, there are no special requirements for it: you can use connections from scraps and even a strip of a different color. The initial stage is the most important, so it is worth approaching it thoroughly, because it will be quite difficult to correct the slightest imbalance in the event of an error.

1. First, a nail is driven in at the corner of the outer frame of the building below and a thread is pulled along the wall, which should be used as a guide in the future. Note that the distance from the ground to the thread should be equal to the width of the starting strip.
2. Next, having secured the thread at the second corner, it is placed in the correct position using a level. The result should be a straight line strictly parallel to the ground.
3. Using chalk or a pencil, draw a straight line, for which the thread is used as a guide. It will mark the place where the starting strip will be fixed.
4. The plank is attached to the frame using self-tapping screws.

We draw your attention to the fact that you need to check the correct installation of the panels with a level as often as possible. It is advisable to do this before starting the installation of every third row of siding.

Fastening the vertical corner strips must begin before installing the main panels, since it is in them that all rows of siding are installed. When starting this stage of finishing work, you should know some of the features of this process.

1. The corner bar should be located at a height of 0.5-0.7 cm from the ground. This is done so that during thermal expansion the plank does not rest against the foundation and does not become deformed.
2. The corner must be secured with self-tapping screws from top to bottom. Please note that the first fastener is made at the top point of the hole, and all subsequent fasteners are made in the center. This approach makes it possible to ensure that the sheathing material expands only downwards and to the sides.
3. The bottom edge of the vertical corner strip must be cut to the width of the starting strip. The goal, as in previous cases, is the same - to avoid the consequences of expansion of the material when heated.

Final result

The flexibility of the corners of vinyl and metal siding makes it easy to use these materials in the process of finishing obtuse and sharp corners of buildings. To cover an obtuse corner, the profile is pressed down, and when working with an acute corner, it is narrowed.

Installation and fastening of the H-profile, which is used for horizontal joining of sheathing elements, is similar to the process of installing corner strips. In this case, an important rule should be observed: the starting strips must be adjacent to the profile, and not vice versa. In addition, when covering with siding, you can do without the H-profile altogether if you arrange the strips overlapping.

The process of installing rows of siding panels occurs according to the following algorithm.

1. The first strip is inserted into the grooves of the corner or H-profile, after which it is snapped into the starting lock.
2. Fastening to the frame should be done using self-tapping screws exactly in the center of the nail holes. Remember that you cannot screw the siding tightly; you need to leave free space for thermal expansion.
3. All subsequent tiers, except the top one, are mounted in the same way.

At the final stage of wall cladding, the top plank is mounted, after which the distance from it to the lock of the penultimate tier is measured. Next, the finishing panel is bent so that its width corresponds to the measured distance, and inserted into the lock.

The process of external cladding with PVC panels is essentially similar to the installation of siding trim discussed above. It uses an identical system of locks and clutches, which may vary only slightly depending on the manufacturer of materials.

Let's hope that our instructions and tips for finishing wooden houses helped you clarify the understanding of the features of this process and made it easier to implement your plans and creative ideas.

Video - Siding a wooden house