In the house, apartment or at the cottage for a man there will always be any job: to drive a nail, fix the stool, nail the hanger or shelf to the wall. Therefore, the ability to own carpentry tools is always necessary. And if there is a desire to make something more significant, you can go from small repair work to more time-consuming: for example, make an embedded table and a shop on a small balcony, to build a wooden staircase or put the floor on the cottage, make a crib or bedside table For tools. As the necessary skills gained, it will be possible to make it possible to make a whole furniture set or even build a house from a log cabin, independently make wooden windows, doors and even a roof. In this case, you can save significant funds to pay for hired work and use them to buy an expensive, but very aesthetic, eco-friendly and good material.

Recently, natural and environmentally friendly materials are becoming increasingly popular. First of all it is a tree. Floors, windows, doors and furniture made of wood, not only look very beautiful and harmonious, but are not able to harm health, especially if non-toxic substances were also used to process them and finish. Some manufacturers of modern furniture use in their production precisely natural and safe materials for human health. But such elite furniture for several thousand dollars can not afford anything. If you do work yourself, it is quite possible to purchase all the desired material, saving on its processing, building construction, finishing and, which is also important, on the delivery of the finished product. Of course, such work will take a lot of time and effort, but the result will invariably please, especially with a good attitude towards the case and the qualitative implementation of all works.

Chapter 1
Domestic carpenter home

For joinery and carpentry, it will be necessary to have a set of simplest tools: an ax, hammer, a nail, chisel, knife jamb, ticks, etc. Over time and as necessary, this minimum set can be replenished with specific tools that will be useful for more serious work. In the arsenal already a professional carpenter's carpenter must be the chisels of various profiles, a tree-hacksaw and metal, a jigsaw, an electric drill with a set of drills and a grinding disk for surface treatment, various types of sandpaper, files and noodles with different racks for machining parts. It is necessary to get acquainted with some of these tools to know for what works they are intended.

Manual carpentry-carpentry tool

Hand tool is used using its own strength. This is an ax, hammer, mall, planer, hacksaw, chisel, chisel, knife, ticks, Dobochnik and clips.

Some of these tools can be replaced by the same analogues that work under the action of the current, which significantly facilitates the process of any work. In addition, there are auxiliary tools: screwdrivers, ticks, nipples, rashpilles, files, etc.

A hammer

This is a very important tool for performing any work, including carpentry and carpentry. The hammer consists of a wooden handle and a brisk made of high-quality steel.

There are ordinary, carpentry hammers and a queen. For joinery, it is desirable to have 2-3 hammer in a set of various masses (200, 400 and 600 g). To begin with, you can only purchase one medium by weight of the hammer.

An ordinary hammer has a round or oval plane of the shock surface, and on the other hand, the liner is a pointed end, which is used to level the nails during climbing.

Kiyanka is a wooden hammer that is used mainly to wipe the wooden arrays during the gluing process, when working with chisels, etc.

An ordinary hammer can be broken off the wooden surface of the web or to break the wooden handle of the bit, and the blows of the image are softer, so they cannot lead to the sparkle of the product. Cyans are flat and round (barrel-shaped), and the kiyan's handle has a rectangular shape with rounded sharp edges. They are made of wear-resistant wood of a swarwood birch, a horn and karagach.

Fig. 1. Hammer-Kiyanka

Round kiyanka typically has 18 cm in height, 12 cm in diameter, 8 cm in the diameter of working ends (trains), and the length of the handle is 39 cm. You can make a pile of independently using these parameters or smaller (Fig. 1).

Council Masters

When pulling out the nail of wood with a carpentry hammer, so as not to minimize the surface of the object or product, it is necessary to put the slice of a thin board or plywood with a thickness of at least 3 mm or use a metal plate.

Fig. 2. Carpentry hammer

A carpentry hammer has one side of the Boyhead, like an ordinary hammer, and the second end is divided into two parts by type of swallow tail. This split end is used to pull the nails, etc. Thus, in the process of work, you can do with one tool using it and for clogging nails, and to pull them out (Fig. 2).

Ax

This tool is simply indispensable in a carpentry. With it, a ring, cutting, wood duck, and the reverse side of the field is used to apply stronger strikes than it can make a hammer (Fig. 3).

Fig. 3. Topor

The ax consists of a wooden handle and an alcohol made of steel. Depending on the angle of the arrangement of the axle relative to the handle distinguish between several types of this tool.

At the direct ax, the axle is located relative to the handle at an angle of 90 °. It is used for rolling wood. The acute-hedled ax The angle of fastening the axle to the handle is 80-85 °. This ax is used for the primary processing of wood: removal of the bark, protruding bitch on the trunk, etc. The Toponiste of the Tupuglovaya Ax is located relative to the handle at an angle of 100 °. It is suitable for performing coarser work with whole trees.

There are axes, whose blade is sharpened on both sides, and there are only sharpened on the one hand. The first option is most commonly used because it can be used both for cutting and dubbing wood. And the second type of the ax is suitable only for dasane.

Hacksaw

With this tool, various parts made of wood and metal are cut off and cut out (Fig. 4).

Fig. 4. Hoven

The hacksaws differ depending on the thickness of the saw blade and the divorce of the teeth.

Each type is designed to perform a specific work, as it gives different quality of the scaled surface. For carpentry work, it is usually used with a hacksaw with a "mouse" tooth - her teeth are very small and often planted. For carpentry, a hacksaw applies with a more rare and large tooth.

For example, hacksaw with a wide web, teeth, sharpened at an angle of 45 °, and a wiring from the central axis of 0.5 mm is used to saw wood across the fibers. Narrow hacksaw with the same indicators of the wiring and method of sharpening teeth, as wide, is used for sawing thin boards and chipboard, to cut the curvilinear parts and so on.

There is a hacksaw with a church, which is used to drink small parts when fitting compounds, etc.

The canvas of this hacksaw is very thin, so the entire length is strengthened with a plank. Without such a device, it cannot hold the direction of cutting and breaking.

Depending on the types of work, it may take hacksaws and wide, and with a narrow cannol, as well as with large or small teeth.

Plane

The planer is also needed when working with wood. With it, the excess layer of wood is removed and the detail surface is aligned. (Fig. 5). The planes are with a metal or wooden case, as well as with one or two blades.

Fig. 5. Planned

The planer with the metal case is mainly used to process solid wood and chipboard, with a wooden case - to perform basic work. The latter is much easier than metallic and does not require a lot of hand muscles.

Single margin (with one blade) is used to align the surface already after processing the shrybel. The width of the blade of this Rubanka is 4 cm and more.

When working it turns out a smooth chip, which practically does not break. But sometimes pieces of wood can be chipped or form ups. Therefore, when working, it is necessary to monitor the sharpness of the blade and the direction of movement of the Rubanka.

Double plans, respectively, has two blades, each of them is installed in a chipcol, which protects the treated surface from the formation of scaling and openings. Of course, this tool after planing gives perfectly even, almost a mirror surface. It should be used for the final processing of the product when scotching the surface.

It is advisable to have 2 plants in stock: one for planing thin and small parts, and the other is for the processing of large boards and jambs.

Shirbel

This is a variety of a planer. Barbel is used for coarse wood processing: leveling and smoothing all irregularities after cutting. Considering the degree of load on the tool, its body must be massive and heavy, therefore it is usually made from durable metal.

Balbel's knife has a special sharpening - the chamfer from it is removed by a semicircle.

Fuganok and semi-pugokanok

These tools are used to planing the surface of large parts, followed by the processing of the double branches. The complexity of the work sets certain dimensions: the length of the foam pad is 70-80 cm, semi-cell - 50-60 cm, the width of the knives - 5-8 cm.

Council Masters

Another variety of the Rubanka - Grift. This tool is equipped with a shortened housing and two narrow knives delivered. It is not provided in its design, which protects against the formation of the offenses.

Therefore, for improvement, the Rubanka can be independently adding it to its chip. With the help of the grinding, there are screaming, formed after the planing of the surface of the Shorbalem, and also eliminate the swivels and bones that are difficult to remove the usual planer.

Cinubel

This randan is used to align the surface of the boards and plates before their subsequent gluing. Also, cinulebel can be eliminated by swivels, jackets and bulls on the workpieces. During operation, you must first shoot the surface of the raw board in the direction of fibers, and then across them, then all the irregularities will disappear. If the surface of the plywood is first cinubel, and then plane the product with a veneer, then the high quality coating will be coated, which is quite suitable in the manufacture of furniture items.

Such pure work of the tool is explained by the presence of a special knife in its design. The edges of this knife perform a little, forming inside a small bed, so in planing on the surface there are small shafts. In addition, the knife of this ruble is placed at an angle of 70-80 ° relative to the surface.

Chisels

This tool is used in cases when you cannot apply the saw due to its large sizes or when it fails to align the surface with the plane. There are several types of chisels that everyone may need to work on a tree. (Fig. 6).

There is a direct chisel that is used to cut rectangular grooves. The width of the canvas is from 3 to 6 mm, which allows you to make large and small holes. In direct chisels - one-sided sharpening knife with a chamfer thickness of 5-15 mm. The knife sharpening angle can be different.

At a semicircular chisel, respectively, sharpening the semicircular knife. There are steep, detached and deep semicircular chisels.

Deep semicircular chisels are also called ceraisics. All these chisels differ in the width of the canvas, the radius of the circumference and the depth of penetration into the woody array.

With the help of them, you can make a round hole or recess, align the surfaces of semicircular recesses, carry out a smooth line on the surface of the product.

It is advisable to have in a set of 2 chisels, it is possible with the same width of the web - 10-12 mm, but one of them should be alongful, and the other is steep.

Fig. 6. Emines

There are angular chisels that differ in the width of the canvas and the corner between the blades chamfer. This angle is from 45 ° to 90 °. These rocks can be used to obtain geometric recesses.

Another variety of chisels - Cupcarazis chisels. With their help, you can choose wood from the recesses where other tools are powerless. Moreover, these chisels leave the perfectly smooth surface of the recess bottom. Their canvas has a curved shape.

There are coal, straight and semicircular chisels-bezperza. All of them differ in the width of the canvas, the depth of chamfering at sharpening, the value of the bend radius, as well as by the nature and size of the bend (Kurcarza).

Bit

Externally, this tool is similar to the chisel, but its functions are somewhat different (Fig. 7). The chisel is used when the wood is dumping with additional use of the hammer (usually in this case a cynica is used) to better penetrate the blade into the wood massif. In order for the wooden handle, the chisel does not crack from the hammer blows, the metal tip is specifically attached to its end.

Unlike the chisels, the chisel has a more massive cloth: the joinery tool is a cloth width of 1.5 cm, in a carpenter - from 2 cm with an expansion at the base.

Fig. 7. Chisel

Knives

In joinery and carpentry, various knives are used. There is a knife jamb, which is designed to cut small decesses in the wood array, for cutting a veneer into pieces, etc. Its blade has a SCO at an angle of 30-40 °, the width of the canvas is different depending on the type of work (from 4 mm to 5 cm ). Also, the sharpening on the blade of the knife may be single and two-way. The latter (two chamfering knives) are used mainly for simple cuts, since it is easy to cut through the wood at once from both sides of the blade.

Knives with one chamfer, in turn, are right and left, depending on the part where the chamfer was removed. These knives are more specific and used to cut wood on one side.

There are still a knife cycle that is used for cycling. The cutting knife has a chamfer only on one side, removed at an angle of 45 °. This very durable and sharp tool makes it easy to remove a thin chips from the surface treated, without deepening in the array.

Pliers and Kusachachi

Ticks and nippers are necessary for pulling nails or studs, extinguishing hats of nails, wire bending and nails in the fasteners of parts, etc. (Fig. 8). There are various types of ticks - nippers, pliers and round-rolls.

Fig. 8. Tick

Dobochnik

With this simple tool, the nail hats in the wood massif is performed.

Screwdrivers

Screwdrivers are necessary for screwing screws. There are wedge-shaped and cruciform screwdrivers. Wedge-shaped divided into one-sided and bilateral (permutable).

The ends of their blades have a different width and thickness. Cross-shaped screwdrivers differ in the width of the pointed work end, which corresponds to a certain diameter of the screw screw and the width of its slot.

For joinery and carpentry, using different types of screws, various screwdrivers will be required, but it is not necessary to purchase them all right away, you can do it as needed (Fig. 9).

Fig. 9. Screwdriver

Clips

These devices are needed when gluing, tightening and fixing parts (Fig. 10). Clamps differ in size and design depending on the method of application. They are quite commonly used in carpentry and carpentry. Clamps are clamps, whims, presses, vice. In order for these tools to be left for traces of squeezing, various gaskets are applied - these are pieces of rubber, wooden bars, etc.

Fig. 10. Clip

Files and rashpils

Files are used to relieve burrs, irregularities and roughness - for the final grinding of the product surface. Rashpyli, like files, are used for stripping in places that are not available to another tool. Dimensions and forms in these tools are different, as well as various types of notches. The tool with a large notch handles the surface of the wood more roughly, leaving some roughness, and with a small notch makes the surface of the wood smoother, smooth and clean. For work there may be needed files and rashpils of different shapes (Fig. 11).

Fig. 11. Files and Raspille

Electric tool

Wood processing using mechanical tools is a time-consuming work that takes a lot of time and effort. Therefore, it is more efficient to use various power tools, then work will be more productive. From electrical tools that can be used in carpentry-carpentry work, first of all, the electric drill will be needed, then electrolyteel, electrical plane, an electric fuel supply, an electric bissor and, finally, the milling machine. You can buy all the tools gradually, as the sharp necessity arises in them.

Electropolis

They are chain and disk. The base of the chain saw device is a connected saw circuit, rotating due to the operation of the electric motor through the gearbox. The chain consists of teeth, bonded by hinges.

This saw can be cutting large ridges, plates, thick bars and boards (Fig. 12).

Fig. 12. Electronical

The disk saw has a circular metal sheet with a diameter of 20 cm and a thickness of 2 mm, which produces cuts. This disk is attached to the electric motor, the device is located on top of the device, which closes only half the saw blade, and its lower part remains open. Two handles are attached to the tool housing, for which it can be kept while processing wood with both hands, which makes it easier to work.

The disk saw is used for longitudinal and transverse sawing of boards and bars. You can fix this saw on the workbench, then it turns out a miniature fixed machine, which will also facilitate the process of processing the material (Fig. 13).

Fig. 13. Disk electric saw

Council Masters

Before screwing up screws, you need to pierce a sewer or drill a thin drill of a hole in a depth of not more than half the length of the screw. Then you need to insert the screw to the hole, press it or slightly score with the hammer, keeping it in a strictly vertical position. After that, screwdriver can be screwed down using a conventional screwdriver or coofer, which will help make it faster. If you need to screw the screw in solid wood, it is necessary to drill or pierce the hole in it for the entire length of the screw.

When working with a disk saw, it is necessary that the edges of the skin come into contact with the wood surface and rested into it, then the cut line will turn out to be smooth.

If in the process of cutting the promotion of the saw disk on the wood array it is difficult, it is necessary, without stopping the work, push the saw for several centimeters back (by cutting), then slowly move the movement of the disk along the same line forward.

As with working with any electrical appliance, it is necessary to follow safety rules. Before starting work, you need to check the serviceability of the parts, the integrity of the electrical wiring, the reliability of fixing the saw disk. The chain saw is checked primarily the state of the chain and then the rest of the tool details.

Any electrical appliance must be grounded. It is possible to operate with electric copies in a dry room, it is necessary to exclude the presence of an open source of water. If during the work it will be found that the saw very quickly and badly started up, it is necessary to stop the work and check the serviceability of the wiring. Often, such overheating occurs as a result of the blurring of the teeth of the saw.

To extend the service life, it is necessary to remove the saw disk or chain from the tool each time after the completion of the work, brushing from sawdust and sera, carefully wipe the kerosene, then remove to store in a special box until the next use.

Electrolabanok.

Electrolake, as well as the usual planer, is used to align the surface of the wood plate or board. Planing is made along the fibers with rotating tool milling cutters, which are driven by an electric motor. With the help of the descending and rising front ski, you can change the depth of penetration of the cutting mill in an array of the material being processed (Fig. 14).

Fig. 14. Electrolabanok.

This tool can be fixed on the workbench, after removing the protective cover. Then it turns out a mini-machine, convenient when performing bulk work. If you do not fix the plans, but keep it in your hands, then before work you need to secure the board or other material being processed on the workbench. After that, you can freely process wood. The plane must walk several times over the surface, while not strongly pressing it. To send the planer only along the fibers. It is also necessary to ensure that the chips and sawdresses do not fall into skis. After the first passage along the wood surface, turn off the planer and return to the original position, turn on the plans and produce a second pass. The same should be done before the third pass, if it is necessary.

If a short break is planned, you also need to turn off the planer and put it on the side or skis up.

Sometimes the surface-processed surface does not work smooth and smooth. This can be associated with the wrong and uneven arrangement of cutting cutters in the groove relative to the ski level. Or such defects occur as a result of bulk milling. You need to handle the electrurukank, removing each time the cutters from the grooves, cleaning their kerosene and remove the tool into the box.

Each time before starting work, you need to check the tool for the health of its wiring. While you need to observe the necessary caution, because this tool is still cutting.

The techniques of performing various carpentry operations are set out, a description of the hand tool, its adjustment and manufacture, is described about the device to fit the joiner's work. Recommendations are given on artistic evaluation of the tree as a diverse material, on the restoration of objects made of wood, their finish (polishing, varnishing, marketer, inlay). Examples of making some products are given. The book uses the experience of old masters of the art and furniture industry.

For a wide range of readers.

What does this book tell 1

Joinery 2.

Tool 5.

Wood processing tool 15

OMDER WORKS, DRAWING OMERMENT DRAWINGS 19

Marking work in nature 20

Joinery 21.

Bonding and sticking 22

Basics of artwork veneer joinery veneer 25

Finishing carpentry 28

Restoration work 30.

Production of joinery 32

G. I. Kulebakin
Joinery

Printed by the decision of the section of the literature on the technologists of the construction work of the editorial board of Stroyzdat.

Reviewer - ch. Specialist of the furniture and equipment of the TsNIIEP of spectacular buildings and sports facilities E.S. Ustinov.

In our hard and rapid eyelids, eyelid eyelids and concrete, metal and polymers man especially acutely feels for such, it would seem to be at the wrong, warm and always favorite material as a tree. From patriarchal antiquity and knightly medieval redemptions reached us. Keep the experience of the best masters of the past, transfer the young professional details of handmade will help the book of the candidate of architecture, a subtle connoisseur of joiner's skill and a wonderful craftsman George Ivanovich Kulebakina. It will be interesting and masters engaged in the joinery of the interiors of public buildings, and those who devote leisure to the ancient and young, painstaking and excellent joinery.

What does this book tell

Treatment of wood is one of the first crafts who mastered the man. The material of this fuel tool is durable, easy and beautiful, so the products from it have long and firmly entered the life of people and enjoy their unchanging love.

The joinery was born from carpentry, construction with the advent of tools and techniques that give the opportunity to get smooth surfaces and accurate parts. The essence of the joinery is in the ability to clean and combine the pieces of wood, obtained from a round wood barrel. The finish appeared much later. Initially, joinery was performed in a natural tree - an array.

Today, thick bars and boards, which have sufficient strength, and very thin doodles, such as plywood veneer (thin wood cut), requiring a wooden base that can be used. Boards and bars go to the hidden design and for the facial opening of the product parts, the veneer is used exclusively for cladding. The surface of the boards and bars is treated with grazing, cutting, sharpening. Since the natural base of the joinery material has not changed - this is all the same tree, and the principle of its processing is preserved, and therefore the techniques of old masters, perfectly by the manual instrument, may well serve today's master whose labor is only facilitated by the use of mechanisms.

Joinery, along with the ability to choose a material to give Bruk, requires a proper form requires and taking into account the constructive work of this bar in the product, based on the direction and shape of its fibers.

As you know, there are different wood species, having a different color, structure and strength of wood. Each breed has its own features in processing and finishing. Joinery art is also to be able to determine the breed, knowing its features - advantages and disadvantages, be able to find in a piece of wood - the workpiece - parts that are most suitable for facial parts, be able to combine different breeds to be combined with each other so that this connection is harmonious , beautiful and corresponded to the design characteristic of the product.

Wood suggests a different kind of finishing - pain, sealed, varnishing, polishing. However, the possibilities of such a finish for different breeds are different: there is wood, easily taking a dreach (color), is - poorly receiving; Some breeds are poorly polished, etc. An important section of carpentry art is an understanding of the possibilities of wood finishing, its choice and the ability to perform this finish.

Any carpentry consists of individual details, one way or another interconnected. The strength of the entire product depends on the strength of the connection of these parts. The master must be able to choose the type of bundle of parts, the form and nature of the processing of them in places of connection, as well as fastening materials.

The parts themselves connected in the product may have different thicknesses, widths at the same size and purpose. Thus, the door frame can be both wide and narrow, stupid legs - and thick, and thin. The ability to determine the section necessary for this place, taking into account not only work, but also of beauty is one of the main components of the joinery. The master must have a sense of proportions and what is called a sense of wood.

The essence of wood treatment, as mentioned, has been preserved from ancient times with almost unchanged: the tree is cut in a saw, the surface is smoothed it with a planer, the holes are done either by a bourgeois or chisel, chisel. Recently, manual machines appeared, in which the cutting parts are driven by the engine. This greatly facilitated the work on the workpiece of the material and, in addition, it made it possible to increase the accuracy of the dimensions of the same type and the speed of their manufacture. From the master requires the ability to use manual machines so that the possibility of obtaining new forms of carpentry products would be limited compared to manual production, but on the contrary, increased. In short, the Master must also be masterfully owned as a chisel or branch. About the need to hold a manual tool to spread here, of course, there is no need.

Modern joinery has been replenished with several new types of carpentry materials. Firstly, this is a flat-shield-based wooden tree based on a chipboard (chipboard) or a joinery, collected from glued wooden rivers and lined with plywood veneer. Secondly, it is a paper or plastic film simulation material that replaces natural, and, thirdly - polyester and nitrocellulose varnishes, which give the opportunity to get a durable thick transparent layer of surface finishing of products. The ability to use these materials is an indispensable condition for carpentry in our day.

Thus, carpentry art includes as a purely craft part - wood processing tool and connecting parts in the product, and the creative part is the ability to choose and combine rocks, feel harmony in a joinery. This last is most difficult, but the ownership of harmony is the main quality of the present master.

In connection with the development of mechanized methods for processing a tree, the immediate connection between the structure of the tree and its shape has lost its recently. There were many false in the artistic and logical sense of decisions, such that manually made it was impossible (for example, cross-belling of curved angles and stoves, long, running on the bending parts), which are mainly dictated by the facilities of the factory technology. It is impossible to imitate them. Therefore, it is possible to understand the actual logic of the device of a wooden thing only by examining the samples of folk furniture, furniture and joinery of past times. All details of peasant furniture and products of medieval stainery masters are made and connected in accordance with the true structural work of the wooden element in the product. Externally, this is characterized by the direction of fibers in the details, as a rule, from the array.

The study of the logic of building ancient or folk furniture should not be accompanied by copying the ancient forms. Although, on the other hand, it must be said that to invent a fundamentally different table or a closet can hardly possibly: after all, the shape of the wooden furniture was produced for many centuries.

Classes of carpentry business are intensively distributed in various segments of the population - from masters engaged in carpentry premises in public buildings, to homemade craftsmen. At the same time, the requirements for the quality of joinery work are increasing. At the same time, the professional skill of workers engaged in carpenter interiors does not always correspond to the proper level. This is because the level of manual skill decreased: the senior-generation craftsmen went away, without conveying the secrets of their work, the joiners of furniture enterprises are too specialized. Many former carpenters who did not pass vocational training are now working in construction.

It is impossible to get comprehensive information about professional joinery work techniques from joiner's textbooks, since the presentation of manual work in them is very compressed.

Joinery

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Large directory of the joiner: all kinds of carpentry work with their own hands

Introduction

In the house, apartment or at the cottage for a man there will always be any job: to drive a nail, fix the stool, nail the hanger or shelf to the wall. Therefore, the ability to own carpentry tools is always necessary. And if there is a desire to make something more significant, you can go from small repair work to more time-consuming: for example, make an embedded table and a shop on a small balcony, to build a wooden staircase or put the floor on the cottage, make a crib or bedside table For tools. As the necessary skills gained, it will be possible to make it possible to make a whole furniture set or even build a house from a log cabin, independently make wooden windows, doors and even a roof. In this case, you can save significant funds to pay for hired work and use them to buy an expensive, but very aesthetic, eco-friendly and good material.

Recently, natural and environmentally friendly materials are becoming increasingly popular. First of all it is a tree. Floors, windows, doors and furniture made of wood, not only look very beautiful and harmonious, but are not able to harm health, especially if non-toxic substances were also used to process them and finish. Some manufacturers of modern furniture use in their production precisely natural and safe materials for human health. But such elite furniture for several thousand dollars can not afford anything. If you do work yourself, it is quite possible to purchase all the desired material, saving on its processing, building construction, finishing and, which is also important, on the delivery of the finished product. Of course, such work will take a lot of time and effort, but the result will invariably please, especially with a good attitude towards the case and the qualitative implementation of all works.

Domestic carpenter home

For joinery and carpentry, it will be necessary to have a set of simplest tools: an ax, hammer, a nail, chisel, knife jamb, ticks, etc. Over time and as necessary, this minimum set can be replenished with specific tools that will be useful for more serious work. In the arsenal already a professional carpenter's carpenter must be the chisels of various profiles, a tree-hacksaw and metal, a jigsaw, an electric drill with a set of drills and a grinding disk for surface treatment, various types of sandpaper, files and noodles with different racks for machining parts. It is necessary to get acquainted with some of these tools to know for what works they are intended.

Manual carpentry-carpentry tool

Hand tool is used using its own strength. This is an ax, hammer, mall, planer, hacksaw, chisel, chisel, knife, ticks, Dobochnik and clips.

Some of these tools can be replaced by the same analogues that work under the action of the current, which significantly facilitates the process of any work. In addition, there are auxiliary tools: screwdrivers, ticks, nipples, rashpilles, files, etc.

This is a very important tool for performing any work, including carpentry and carpentry. The hammer consists of a wooden handle and a brisk made of high-quality steel.

There are ordinary, carpentry hammers and a queen. For joinery, it is desirable to have 2-3 hammer in a set of various masses (200, 400 and 600 g). To begin with, you can only purchase one medium by weight of the hammer.

An ordinary hammer has a round or oval plane of the shock surface, and on the other hand, the liner is a pointed end, which is used to level the nails during climbing.

Kiyanka is a wooden hammer that is used mainly to wipe the wooden arrays during the gluing process, when working with chisels, etc.

An ordinary hammer can be broken off the wooden surface of the web or to break the wooden handle of the bit, and the blows of the image are softer, so they cannot lead to the sparkle of the product. Cyans are flat and round (barrel-shaped), and the kiyan's handle has a rectangular shape with rounded sharp edges. They are made of wear-resistant wood of a swarwood birch, a horn and karagach.

Fig. 1. Hammer-Kiyanka

Round kiyanka typically has 18 cm in height, 12 cm in diameter, 8 cm in the diameter of working ends (trains), and the length of the handle is 39 cm. You can make a pile of independently using these parameters or smaller (Fig. 1).

Council Masters

When pulling out the nail of wood with a carpentry hammer, so as not to minimize the surface of the object or product, it is necessary to put the slice of a thin board or plywood with a thickness of at least 3 mm or use a metal plate.

Fig. 2. Carpentry hammer

A carpentry hammer has one side of the Boyhead, like an ordinary hammer, and the second end is divided into two parts by type of swallow tail. This split end is used to pull the nails, etc. Thus, in the process of work, you can do with one tool using it and for clogging nails, and to pull them out (Fig. 2).

This tool is simply indispensable in a carpentry. With it, a ring, cutting, wood duck, and the reverse side of the field is used to apply stronger strikes than it can make a hammer (Fig. 3).

Fig. 3. Topor

The ax consists of a wooden handle and an alcohol made of steel. Depending on the angle of the arrangement of the axle relative to the handle distinguish between several types of this tool.

At the direct ax, the axle is located relative to the handle at an angle of 90 °. It is used for rolling wood. The acute-hedled ax The angle of fastening the axle to the handle is 80-85 °. This ax is used for the primary processing of wood: removal of the bark, protruding bitch on the trunk, etc. The Toponiste of the Tupuglovaya Ax is located relative to the handle at an angle of 100 °. It is suitable for performing coarser work with whole trees.

There are axes, whose blade is sharpened on both sides, and there are only sharpened on the one hand. The first option is most commonly used because it can be used both for cutting and dubbing wood. And the second type of the ax is suitable only for dasane.

With this tool, various parts made of wood and metal are cut off and cut out (Fig. 4).

Fig. 4. Hoven

The hacksaws differ depending on the thickness of the saw blade and the divorce of the teeth.

Each type is designed to perform a specific work, as it gives different quality of the scaled surface. For carpentry work, it is usually used with a hacksaw with a "mouse" tooth - her teeth are very small and often planted. For carpentry, a hacksaw applies with a more rare and large tooth.

The data on wood and auxiliary materials, modern tools, devices, mechanisms and woodworking machines are given, there are methods for connecting wooden elements, data on manual and machine processing of wood in the manufacture of wooden products and structures. Described production of carpentry and carpentry in construction, modern organization of labor and workplace on the basis of best practices. For workers construction and installation organizations.

Adhesives and mastic.
Glutin (collagen) adhesives - a member (GOST 3252-80) and bone. Mind glue has the following stamps: CME (Extra), CMB (highest grade), km-1, km-2 and km-3 (figures indicate the variety). Mind and bone adhesives produce tiles, crushed, granular, scaly and gallery (adhesive jelly). Prepare glue as follows. Dry glue is placed in the glue and poured water in room temperature, better boiled (Fig. 1.6, Table 1.22). Water must completely close the glue. In this state, the glue is withstanding 6 ... 12 hours before full swelling. The glue is then boiled, stirring periodically, and it goes into the solution. The working temperature of the meter glue 50 ... 70 ° C, bone-40 ... 60 ° C. The use of glue at operating temperature is no more than 8 hours.

Casein adhesives. The main part is the dairy protein-casein (degreased cottage cheese). Store casinic glue powder in a dry room at a temperature not higher than 30 ° C. At a temperature of 40 ° C, casein loses adhesive properties. The shelf life of dry glue 5 months.
To prepare the glue, casein powder gradually spare into the water room temperature (16 ... 20 ° C), constantly stirring, in a mass ratio of 1: 1.7 to 1: 2.3 (depending on the desired viscosity) and stir periodically For an hour before obtaining the sour cream mass. The viability of casein adhesives 4 ... 6 h. Casein glue is used in the manufacture of joinery and shields, window and door blocks.

Casein-cement glue (CC). Its composition: Casein glue-1000 g, portland cement 400-750 g, room temperature water - 2200 ... 2500. Portland cement is added to the casein glue solution and stirred until a homogeneous mass is mixed. The viability of this glue is 4 ... 6 h. Casein-cement glue is used in the manufacture of beams, runs, farms, floors from superhard wood-fiber plates. Casein-cement glue is medium-fashioned, so when using it in wooden building structures, it protects against waterproof paint or varnishing.

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