Most often, the laying of tiles on the floor is trusted by professional tiled masters and do it not in vain. After all, the durability and beauty of the coating highly depends on the quality of the stacking, and the work process itself is very complex. However, put a smooth tile on a fairly smooth base with their own hands and even a beginner will be able to put the "seam in seam" according to the standard picture. The main thing is to choose the correct installation solutions and strictly follow technology. This will help our step-by-step instructions with photos and a selection of useful video. This tile laying theory will be useful and those who need to be monitored and take the work of the Tiler.

Materials, Tools and Equipment

Here is a list of materials and tools that you need in the process of laying, cutting and grouting outdoor tiles.

Tools and equipment:

• Roulette, metal line and corner;
• Building pencil for marking;
• Construction level and rule;
• Building mixer or drill with a labeling nozzle;
• Tile tile or electrical tile cutter;
• Core or glass cutter (need for curvilinear pruning tiles);
• Lamps for tile (for trimming curvilinear);
• File (for grinding cropped edges);
• Putty knife;
• Toothed spatula (6-8 mm);
• Master OK;
• Rubber spatula for grouting seams;
• Rubber cizyanka;
• Bucket with a sponge and cloth;
• Knee pads and houses. Gloves.

Materials

In addition to the tile itself with a 10% margin, you will need:

• Tile glue corresponding to the base material (concrete, wood, old tiles, etc.), as well as the features of the tile itself;
• Crosses of the desired size;
• Putting the desired color;
• Primer.

Step 1. Preparation of the base

First, it is necessary to prepare the basis for it to be smooth, clean and dry. Putting a tile is preferable to a concrete screed, but if you wish, you can put on an old tile or tree, chipboard (or other similar material). However, keep in mind that when installing tiles on the old cladding, the elevation of the final floor will increase.

To put a tile on a concrete screed need: Remove possible roughness with a scraper, spend the floor, wash the alkaline cleaning agent, then cover the primer layer (preferably) and wait 2-4 hours until the floor does not dry. Further, if the concrete base is uneven (deviations of more than 5 mm on 2 row meters), it must be pouring it into any leveling composition and wait for drying.

To put the tile on the old tile, you need:

• To improve the adhesion of the old tile with glue, passes with sandpaper or grinding;
• Then covering the vacuum cleaners and washed, if necessary, process with primer (required drying in 2-4 hours) and coated with a self-leveling mixture.

Attention! Place the tile on the warmest flooring system, turn off the heated 1-2 days before the start of work. Include heating or floor heating can be only 2-3 days after the seams are grouting. To lay a ceramic tile on the "warm floor", you need to use glue with a high content of elastic polymers, which will prevent the temperature deformation of the base.

Step 2. Drawing markup

As soon as the floor becomes dry, you can start drawing markup. Methods of drawing markup There are many, but all one goal:

• The floor should be marked so that, firstly, the trimmed tiles were not placed in sight; And secondly, the trimming was required as little as possible. Ideally, the tiles must be curved on a third or a maximum of half.

For example, the markup can be built in such a way that whole tiles are placed at the entrance, along the axes of the window opening or, say, at the balcony burrow. In our article, we consider one of the most popular ways to lay tile on the floor - along two perpendicular axes from the doorway center.

So, spend a line from the center of the threshold to the center of the opposite wall using a cord or laser level. Next along this line, start stacking a row of tiles with crosses "on dry". Putting the last whole tile, spend a line along its outer edge so that you have two strictly perpendicular vertical lines as in the diagram below. It is advisable to make sure that the corners are straight under 90 degrees.

In the corner of the perpendicular, we glue the first tile, and they carry the first row (along the horizontal line) from it.

Step 3. Laying the first tile and first row

Glue in the bucket according to the manufacturer's instructions, put it on one of the corners of the intersection and at the same time on the area of \u200b\u200bseveral tiles of the future of the first row, just entering its limits. Then crush the glue with a toothed spatula, holding it at an angle of 60 degrees. Try to always keep the "comb" at the same angle so that the glue is given the same thickness.

Attention! If the tile has a size of more than 30 × 30 cm or 20 × 30 cm, the glue must be applied to the tile itself with a thin layer (apply glue to the tile and immediately remove it almost completely with the same spatula). For very large formats, a layer of glue on a tile can be thicker and to break it with a toothed spatula as shown in the photo below.

Then the second tile should be glued in the same way and to compose it from the first with the help of the image and the rule. Make sure that the tiles are put exactly by attaching the construction level directly to two tiles immediately as shown in the photo below.

Check the height of each laid tile with the previous one. If necessary, remove the surplus or, on the contrary, add glue

Only when both tiles are aligned, insert crosses in the corners of the tiles and in the seam.

Now continue to glue the tiles in the same way until the whole first row is ready. Pass over it once again the rule and check the levels of level.

Several rules and useful installation tips

• Floor base and tiles should always be dry.
• Try to apply glue by no more than 1 mandaming meter of facing area at a time.
• Glue, stood over 30-40 minutes, it becomes not suitable for work (with the exception of adhesives of some manufacturers). So try to knead the glue by a little bit.
• So that the glue did not quit to the ridge, constantly soak it in the water.
• Kaptists need to have time to clean up to dry the glue.
• It is not desirable to rely on the knees on the laid tile, as it can disrupt its flatness.
• Tile should be taken from different boxes, so small varnotone will be invisible. Before starting work, be sure to check that the tone specified on all boxes coincides.
• On the turnover of the tile always stands the logo of the manufacturer, according to which you can understand where the tile is top, and where the bottom. Sometimes tiles have a special design orientation designator, which can be additionally labeled on the end of the tile with a pencil.
• Have time to remove excess glue until it dry. From the surface of the tile it is best removed with a rag moistened with solvent.

Alternative method of marking and laying of the first row

Do not want to bother with marking? Then act in the old manner - start laying the tile from the apparent angle. If you put the tile on the floor in the kitchen, you can start the laying from the angle the opposite headset of the wall, then a row of cutting tiles falls at it.

More useful information on marking and laying tiles on the floor with your own hands you can learn from this video.

Step 4. Laying the remaining rows, cutting tiles

Hooray, the first row is ready and now, focusing on it, we can pave a second row of cropped tiles (see Figure below), and then all the others.

• Attention! The first row is only from whole tiles, the tropped tiles are put later (on the scheme "cut" a number is indicated as a series 2).

How to cut the last floor tile adjacent to the wall? First of all, you need to determine the line of its cutting: put it on the already glued pen-butter tile, put another tile on it and shift it to the wall, but not reaching the wall at the distance of one seam. Along the outer edge of this tile, fueled the line on the underlined tile. This line is the line of the cut.

Cut the tile can be cut in different ways and instruments. Ideally, it is worth using a manual stove or electric stovetur (see photo above) if there is no such tool, then use the grinder. However, if the floor tile is ceramic and not very thick (up to 9 mm), then you can apply the old building trick and cut it ... An ordinary glass cutter as shown in this video.

How to cut the tile curvilinear? Start a painting tape on the cutting tile to prevent the decorative layer combaling. Then a pencil, notice the round line of the cut, say under the pipe. Next, drill several holes along the planned rounded line with a carbide drill (suitable for porcelain tiles). Finally, with the help of bruises, passage and special forceps for tiles gently take off the unnecessary part. Collect the location of the cut with a file.

When you check the entire floor, make sure that all the crosses are deleted and leave the coating to dry for 24 hours.

How to trim the floor tile with a grinder Mr., for example, under the protrusion of Ventkanal, you can learn from this video.

Step 5. Grouting seams

After 24 hours, you can proceed to the grout of the seams. To do this, first wet the stamps from the splake from the pulverizer or just a wet cloth to improve the grip grip, and then divert the grouting mixture.

Holding a rubber spatula at an angle, apply a mixture for seams by about 1 square meters. Floor meter and distribute it so that all the seams are completely filled. But be careful and do not try to greatly crush the grout in the seams.

After 15-30 minutes, remove excess grouts with a wet sponge. In the same way, continue to rub the seams on other sections of the floor, with the exception of the junctions along the walls. An hour after grouting the entire surface of the floor, it can be washed with water or soft cleaning agents.

After a week, the seams can be additionally covered with sealant.

Attention! It is not recommended to walk on the freshly lined tiled floor, ideally for 7 days.

The tile on the floor kitchen, bathroom, corridor or utility room is the perfect version of the floor covering from all points of view. The coating easily creates the desired effect in design, the main thing is to choose the right color and texture. It does not require effort during cleaning, it is easy to clean, cleaned by contamination, has a neat look. Properly selected floor ceramic tile is not afraid of high humidity, temperature, durable, not erased like paint.

Disadvantages - cold floors, painstaking work on laying and increased hardness, because of which the beating utensils falling on such a floor is necessarily divided. However, these shortcomings are not significant. The tile floor can be insulated, the kitchen to equip in such a convenient way is that the risk to drop dishes is minimal, and anyone who wants to be given to the technology of proper styling.

Choosing a tile for the floor, one should take into account a few moments.

1. Choosing a tile, do not be lazy to attach two or three tiles to each other to make sure that there are no gaps between them and they fit tight to each other.
2. Floor tiles should not slide. You can check for sliding, maminating the front of the water. The surface should be rough, with corundum spraying or ribbed. Slippery tile is not suitable for flooring and suitable for walls.
3. Buy material follows with a margin, while laying can be split, damage it. To do this, the area that is subject to coating should be measured, and then compared with the sample size and correctly determine the required amount. The part of the coating remaining after the repair can be stored in the house in case of damage during operation, for replacement.
4. Calculate the required quantity follows: divide the floor area on the tile sample area to find out the required amount. You need to add another percent of 10-15 to marriage and stock.
5. Pay attention to moisture resistance. Look at the technical characteristics, moisten. The reverse side should not withdraw moisture.
6. When choosing, you should give an advantage more severe, thick tiles (from 8 to 13 cm). It should be resistant to shock and withstand solid physical exertion.
7. On hardness, the tile is divided into 5 levels. Outdoor coating corresponds to levels from 3 to 5.
8. Pay attention to how the tile is clean, reacts to detergent abrasive substances. When choosing, designers advise choosing contrasting with walls in color, floor tiles.
9. The most reliable material for the tile coating is porcelain stoneware. It costs more, but does not create problems in the process of laying and operation.
10. If the kitchen is small, it is better to choose a smaller tile (10 to 10). A large tile visually reduces the room. It is easiest to lay a square classic tile. If you choose a figure, do not forget about the plinths, borders, corners. For such places there are special forms of tiles.

Tools and materials necessary in the process of laying

To put the tile on your own, you need to stock up with tools and materials.

Adhesive mixes

The finished adhesive solution in the volume plastic vendors or packages is expensive, and in practice it is not entirely convenient for them. It is better to buy a special dry construction mixture that is easy to turn into a construction glue at home. In addition, the dry mixture can be prepared in parts, choosing a convenient schedule and the pace of facing.

Ready glue or dry adhesive mixture can be replaced with cement-sandy solution. Work with a cement mixture cannisively, but cheap will cost, it will help to smooth the errors in the curvature of the floor, and in terms of the quality of laying, if you do everything carefully, the cement solution, cooked personally, will not give way to adhesion.

A good composition for the construction adhesive mixture is a combination of sand, ordinary quality cement and a dry adhesive mixture. It is reliable, and economically.

Fuga (grouting for interconnect seams in places connected tiles)

Fugue - grouting for interconnect seams in places connecting tiles. When choosing a fugue, it is necessary to draw attention to the fact that the contrast grout makes the floor bright, emphasizing the tile shape, and the flag-chosen tile will give the effect of a uniform smooth coating. The width of the seam depends on the quality of the tile and ranges from 2 to 20 mm.

Before facing, you must prepare the floor to laying tiles. If the surface is not flat, then the floor must be aligned, following technologies adopted in construction work. Minor errors to fix easily with a cement mortar, as well as a building aggregate from dry building mixtures.

Stop the tile is needed on a clean surface. Therefore, before working the room, it is necessary to free from furniture and things completely, the floor must be thoroughly speaking, wash, wash, clean the fifth, dirt and dry from stains. The room needs to be ventilated and closed at work and drying, eliminating drafts.

How to lay outdoor tiles in relation to the walls

There are three main types of laying outdoor plates.

1. "Seam to the seam" is the easiest, understandable and easy way, when the tile is stacked consistently, each other, smooth straight rows, while the seams are the same, the slabs are parallel to the walls of the room.
2. "Diagonal" - the plates are located not parallel to the walls, the corners of the tile "look" into the walls. It is less economical, more troublesome, as you have to cut a lot of plates on the diagonal. But it is this method that can aesthetically make the room more attractive, visually - spacious, due to the diagonal lines on the floor.
3. "In the disintegration" - the plates are placed on each other, but the seams do not match, the coating fragments are stacked as bricks, the border between the overlay tiles is in the middle of the seam of the underlying tile.

Video - Laying Tiles

Laying tiles

The first thing is necessary determine the point from which the laying starts and where the first tile will be laid. Such a point can be located at the middle of the wall or in the middle of the room. It is necessary for symmetric styling, as it is convenient.

Prepared the adhesive composition is applied to the floor. For thicker tiles, we give a thicker adhesive layer. Running it, we distribute evenly with the help of a toothed spatula. Make sure that when moving the grooves obtained the same in depth and height.

Experienced repairmen are usually poured with glue or 1 kV cement. meter. If there is no experience, it is better to reduce the area. You need to lay the tile quickly until the glue has not dreamed, did not push.

If instead of a special adhesive, a cement solution is used or a more reliable mixture of cement with glue, tile must be soaked in a pelvic with water, for a dense "sticking" and adhesion (adhesion) with a prepared floor surface.

On the finished fragment of the floor with the tile applied with glue, you need to apply and press with your hands, then on each side to carefully knock the rubber construction hammer so that the laid tile stuck uniformly.

This uses a construction level. If the edge of the tile is higher above, it should be lowered by pressing or knocking it with a hammer. If the tile "sends", better add a small portion of the adhesive solution.

Between the tiles insert plastic dividing crossesSo that the seams between the coating fragments were the same. Crossings can be replaced with matches or narrow wooden wedges, pegs with a diameter of 2-8 mm.

Sometimes at the end of a row, the tile does not fit, in this case, plates will come to the rescue, and if it is not - ordinary "Bulgarian". You can use for cutting and glass cutter. This will require additional effort, but no additional costs.

While working on the laying of the tile, it is necessary to keep the wet rag nearby, to immediately wash the stains from glue and cement, while the makeup did not thicken, do not dry.

Setting the tile completely, you need to wait until the glue is dry. It is necessary to exclude the slightest drafts, close the windows and doors tightly, ensure that there is no one in the room with fresh tiles, including animals and children. Glue dries over a couple of days. After complete drying, you can proceed to the completion of work - grouting seams.

The seams between the tiles are maintained by a special construction mixture. We take out all the plastic separation crosses (or matches) from the gaps between the tiles, then we apply a grouting mixture on the seam with a small rubber spatula.

By the way, the fugu can be made colored by adding a dye into the finished mixture. The paint is selected in an individual compliance with the aesthetic tasks that you put in front of yourself.

If the lined floor is in a crowded room, instead of a fugue you can use a liquid cement solution, it is stronger, more stable to physical aggressive impact and is not erased quickly.

After grouting the seams, the lined floor should dry. Usually, the day leaves. After that, you can wash the floor and easily breathe: the repair and construction part of the work, associated with the floor facing, is completed.

If you are planning to repair in the house and want to use a tile as an outdoor coating, everything can be done. This will save money, fully control the process and to have a job done. We assure that much easier than the walls, and when complying with certain recommendations, the tile will delight your eyes for a long time.

Necessary materials and tools

We will need:

• Tile for floor. Here you will be restricted except financial capabilities - basically you can choose anything, with any colors, shades, drawings, texture, and so on. At the same time, pay attention, is the tile of the floor or wall you like (you can also be interested in).
• Tile glue and grouting composition. Pay attention to the manufacturer's recommendations: Some manufacturers provide recommendations on the most appropriate compositions. In general, it will be better to learn about these compositions.

From tools:

• Building level
• Roulette
• Marking cord

Rubber hammer, spatula with rectangular teeth

With the help of these materials, the surface of the tile is leveled, the smoothness and uniformity of the laying are monitored:

• Bulgarian, glass cutter or stovetur - cut off the tile by size
• Capacities - knead compounds
• Grater - apply and distribute glue
• Spatula - for grouting seams

Armed with these instruments, you can easily.

Preparation for laying

Prepare the base for masonry. Like any other floor coverings, the tile should be laid on a dry, clean and smooth surface. If you have a concrete floor - it will have to be aligned, for this fit (although work on the removal of dirt, grinding, grinding cracks, etc. will also be needed in this case).

Purification of the floor surface

Than you can cut the tile

Before you start cutting the tile, it needs to be soaked in water. Keep the tile in water tanks for at least an hour - take care of this in advance. After the tile wets, it will become a supple, and you can cut the material with a conventional glass cutter without any special difficulty, after which, putting the tile on the edge of the table so that the cut line is on the edge, press on the desired section - the tile split over the knurb.

Despite the fact that the procedure seems simple, there are nuances in it. Wall tile can be cut with glass cutter, and floor tiles - stovetur. The tiles differ from glass cutting in that the diameter of its wheel is approximately one and a half centimeters. This allows him to make cuts on a big depth. In addition, after the end, the tile can be broken down with stoveturis.

The cut line should take place no closer to the centimeter to the edge of the tile. The glass cutter must be applied after the door line - evenly to sell the tile, rolling the glass cutting so that the trail remains on the tile. An incision to spend only once.

Glass cutting for cutting ceramic tiles

You can not put the tile on the edge of the table, but simply put under the tile from below some item: a match, wand, carnations, clins, etc., after which it is pressed on the tile on both sides of the winding line.

As a rule, the plates are sold along with the limiting ruler - in case you need a standard, type-size tile. And in order to drill a hole in the tile, a special tool is used to drill holes in the tile - "ballerina".

How to drill a hole in the tile

It often happens that even the most accurate people trying to make a hole in the ceramic tile, make a crack in it. Naturally, the cracked tile is no longer suitable anywhere. Therefore, the holes need to be drilled as follows: to begin with the intended site of drilling, the glaze is removed (for this it is best to knock the hammer on the subject that is stupid from one end and sharp from the other - for example, a tap). After that, the hole is drilled in the tile by means of a hand drill.

Laying tiles

First, it is necessary to mix the adhesive solution - in the prepared container, pour clean water and pour dry adhesive mixture into it in the proportion specified by the manufacturer on the glue mixture packaging. After that, mix the solution well and give it in a few minutes, then mix again so that the mixture has acquired maximum homogeneity. After that, the glue will be ready for laying. The cement solution is applied with a special gear spatula

Tile must be put on the floor and tightly press on the entire surface. If the tile is large, it is necessary to spawn it with a rubber hammer in the direction from the center to the edges. So that the gaps are the same, use plastic cross-separators. After the tile is laid, remove the remnants of the adhesive from it and go to the next site. May be mastered on their own.

Tile laying process

Do not forget to use the construction level to control the work. Check as often as possible: if the surface is uneven, then you will have to align it, which will take quite a long time. After the tile is fully laid, wait approximately half an hour, pull the cross-separators and start the grout of the intercutric seams.

Often those who have conceived to put the tile on their own, do not think, from which side you should start laying the tile. And this is a very important point.
Experienced masters know that if you correctly start laying the tile in the bathroom or kitchen, then the material will leave less, and therefore the finance will be spent less. It will also shrink the time for laying tiles and design in the bathroom or the toilet will look better.

By and large, the question: "How to start laying the tile" does not have a unambiguous answer. But there are several moments for which the masters determine which side to start laying the tile.

First you need to decide on the sequence of laying tiles in the bathroom or kitchen. It is advised to start laying the tile from the walls, and not from the floor, because During work from the walls, the material may fall with which the tiler works and the new tile on the floor will be damaged. Another reason why laying should be started from the walls is the time of drying the tile. So that the tile glue fell entirely, you need to wait from several days before the week. At this time, you will have to stop the repair work in the bathroom or toilet, and this is too much time.

Laying scheme

Before starting to lay the tile in the bathroom or toilet, you need to decide on the location of the tile. To do this, draw design on paper and make the necessary calculations.

Next, you should make even marking on the wall, moving the tile from top to bottom without a solution. It should be noted the position of each tile, thereby determining the future position of the tile. The lower row will correctly lay the last amount of sliced \u200b\u200bpieces.

How to lay a tile on the walls

Tile on the walls begin to lay the corner, which is first rushing into the eye at the entrance to the room, is usually the opposite wall from the entrance door. On the second marked thread or level, a row on the wall must be attached to the rail, making sure that it costs exactly. After that, you can start laying tiles on the wall.

To avoid crawling the tile, at a time you can upload no more than two rows. You can put two rows of tiles for each wall and so in a circle. As long as the row will be laid on one wall, on the other it will come up. You need to start the facing from integer elements, and the lower rows can be put out of damaged.

If the novice tiler wants to lay one wall at the other, it can be safely said that nothing happens - the tile in the corners will not come down, and the seams will range from 3 mm to 3 cm, which looks very ugly.

It should also be considered that if there are external angles in the kitchen or bathroom, then the tile laying occurs with them, as it will not work in the outside corner to finish a series of damaged tiles on the outer corner.

The lower row should be laid last. Most often, laying the bottom row, the tile has to cut. This is done by a special tool - plastic cutting.
Between each row of tiles in the bathroom or kitchen, you need to put cross-bass - special accessories for working with tiles.

In case the glue is accidentally overloaded to the finished work, it should be removed immediately from the tile, to avoid frozen. After the laid tile in the toilet or the bathroom completely dry, all the facing should be wiped first with a damp cloth, and then dry. After that, you can proceed to the grout of the seams.

Drawing on the wall

It should also be considered that if the owner is going to lay out a certain drawing in the toilet, then start laying the tile from the center of the image. If this is not done, the drawing may be aside the wall.

To determine the center of the wall in the kitchen or in the toilet, you need to establish a diagonal diagonal using the cord, where the diagonal will be intersecting, there is a wall center.

It is necessary to start putting the tile from the center of the image and continue the row into one and the other side of the center. After the central row is posted, it will become clear where to move on and work will go faster.

Laying tiles on the floor

Where to start laying a tile on the floor in the toilet?

1. There are three options with which experienced tile tires are starting to spread the tile on the floor. Buildings occurs from the farther corner opposite the door. This is a standard way that is suitable for laying a tile in the kitchen, but if in the bathroom, this angle is closed with a shower, then use this The method makes no sense.
2. Laying from the door of the door. In this case, putting the tile starts from the angle that is closest to the door. This method is used most often, since the plumbing is usually located on the opposite side.
3. Laying from the center of the room. The center of the room is placed four tiles, from which the floor laying continues.

There is one simple way to determine which of the three options to use. You should measure the length of the row and split the resulting result on the width of the tile. If the resulting residue is less than half, then start laying the floor tile follows from the beginning of the row. This method does not only save the material, but the layout looks more accurate.

Before starting work, the floor is carefully cleaned and aligned. Next, it is necessary to create a waterproofing trough, which will protect the floor from various kinds of leakage. To do this, use waterproofing - liquid or rolled. Over the insulating layer is ground to increase adhesion tiled adhesive.

Shutkish seams

You can rub the seams after the facing will dry completely. You should remove all the crosses and you can proceed to the grout.

The grout is selected by the color of the tile, divorced in water to a homogeneous mass and is uniformly applied with a rubber spatula between the seams.

After part of the sword seams, it is necessary to wipe them slightly damp sponge so that the seams were smooth and beautiful.

Saving

Many are thinking about how to save during repairs. The first thing you do not need to save is on the quality of the tile, so in the future this savings can do even more expensive.

You can not put the tile where it will not be visible, for example, on the walls where plumbing devices will be installed. Only, it only needs to be remembered that the walls will require additional protection against moisture - be sure to launch, to predelve, it is possible to paint.

Also, you can not put the tile under the bath, especially if all the space under the bathroom is closed with a screen. The floor where there will be no tile, should also be protected from moisture.

Laying tiles on the floor with your own hands is a very time-consuming process that requires a certain accuracy. If you comply with all the rules and technologies, it will be possible to get a reliable and durable flooring. It should also be borne in mind that independently manufactured repair allows you to significantly save a family budget.

The work has to be long, it will be divided into several stages that are completely interrelated.

Tool

First of all are determined with the necessary tool. Read:

• Hammer and rubber cizyanka.
• Chisel.
• A set of simple spatulas, as well as toothed.
• Trowel.
• Level and roulette.
• Platekorez.
• Tile glue, grout and sealant.
• Set of crosses to create smooth seams.
• Capacity for water and mortar.

Of course, depending on the specific situation, other devices may be needed.

Calculation of the number of material

It is better to do at the initial stage. Many people think that the calculation of the floor tile is quite difficult, but in fact everything else. This is done according to the following principle:

The first, where the installation of the tile begins - the calculation of the number of tiles, so it is important to fulfill this event correctly

• Define object parameters. His width and length. The total area is calculated.
• The resulting indicator is divided into the area of \u200b\u200bthe selected tile (you can calculate several options at once).
• Ten percent add to the resulting quantity. It will be the necessary stock.

For example, the floor has a size of 3 * 3 meters. So, the area will be equal to nine square meters. The usual tile has a size of 30 * 30 cm. The resulting tile area is translated into meters: 0.09 square meters. m. Total: 9: 0.09 + 10% \u003d 110 pieces. When calculating trimming - the size of the seams is also taken into account.

On a note! Any large construction store that trades tiles offers free services for calculating the required amount of products.

Work with the surface

Laying of sex tiles is possible only on a well-prepared surface. First, everything is deleted from the room. An old floor covering is removed. Communication is checked. It is on this that it is worth focusing. The fact is that the entire supply of water supply and drainage is done in advance. We should not engage in the floor until all the problems in this area are solved. If there is an opportunity, then the pipes are preferably hidden immediately.

When all technical procedures are completed, the surface leveling process begins. It is much easier to carry out work when it comes to new houses, apartments that only have a tie-plaster. In the old rooms - you will have to try. The fact is that objects built many years ago may have different bases. Sometimes you have to create a new surface.

On a note! When it comes to bathrooms, which are located in old apartment buildings, then pay attention to the plinth. They are made of durable cement mixtures. They will have to be removed completely, together with the coating.

Paul preparation before laying tile

1. After cleaning, there are a lot of dust and dirt that you need to delete. Outdoor tile - nothing superfluous.
2. The surface is performed. It is done in order to determine the existing curvature. It is allowed to have small drops - no more than 5 mm by 2 meters. Any defects that will be more specified parameters - need a more serious approach.
3. The situation will help correct the leveling mixture. It is better to choose cement-sand formulations. This mixture is poured on the mounted beacons. It turns out a smooth and smooth base. But such a procedure is performed after all the deep slots and potholes are taken.
4. The wooden floor needs the same approach. The only thing that will be a bit different. First, the reliability of the lag and boards is checked. Next, it is impregnated by wood with oil paints. The cracks are embedded in advance to elastic putty. A layer of waterproofing will be laid on the dried surface. Top stretch the reinforcing grid. The prepared mixture is poured.
5. Do not forget about the priming penetrating composition.

Flood primer before laying the tile provides a more durable tile connection with floor surface

On a note! Premises with high humidity require a more thorough relationship. There will be a prerequisite. Materials for this can be used different. Some can be laid (film, rolled), others apply with roller and brushes (liquid).

Indeed, laying outdoor tiles with their own hands requires a weighted approach to the surface. It is impossible to hope that small flaws will be corrected by the final coating.

Marking

There are two main ways of floor cladding tile. Everyone has its own features.

1. The easiest option is that the installation begins from a long corner. Movement goes towards the doorway. This method is suitable for small objects, as well as for premises with complex geometry. Ideal for those who have no sufficient experience.
2. You can apply a more complex option. In this case, facing begin with the middle. The surface is pre-locked - you need to get four identical square or rectangle. The lines will pass through the center, forming four corners. You should choose one, it will serve as the starting point for work. Material laid according to this principle - cutting over the entire perimeter. Therefore, such manipulations are carried out in the presence of sufficient experience.

It is recommended to start working from the preliminary location of the elements. That is, the laying of the tile on the floor is carried out on the "dry". This will help immediately calculate everything. Especially if there is a drawing that requires fitting. It is important to take into account the availability of seams. This method allows you to once again estimate the size of the trimming, and if necessary, make adjustments.

Tip! Making primary calculations - pay attention to the sites that will be located along the walls. To get a beautiful floor surface, you should be guided by the principle that the tile should not cut into narrow strips. The size must be more than 35-40% of the total width.

Laying

Laying ceramic tiles on the floor begins with the preparation of glue. Even if a ready-made composition was purchased, it is required to stir well. When the dry mixture is used, then you need to follow the recommendations that the manufacturer provides.

It is not necessary to immediately prepare a big stock of glue. It should be borne in mind that the process can significantly delay. Then the composition will begin to lose its properties. Simply freezes.

Work is performed according to the following principle:

On a note! The space near the walls begin to close in the last stage. Such an approach will help reduce the time, as in this case it will be possible to engage in the trimming of the entire material immediately.

1. It should be borne in mind that the technology of laying tiles on the floor - does not allow emptiness. If you allow the formation of such a defect, then the likelihood of damage to the coating is large.
2. Surplus of glue from the surface are immediately wiped. Otherwise, the glue will have to delete a special scraper.
3. Often the question arises: how much does the material hissing? It depends on the mixture used, but two days are not recommended to go along the floor.
4. At the last stage, the seams are wiping. This procedure allows you to get beautiful gaps. When there is a need - the sealant is additionally used.

If you analyze all the requirements and rules, then it will become clear that laying the tile on the floor - the occupation is complex, but performed.