The insulation of a brick garage is a peculiar key to the long life and maintenance of the car. Due to sharp temperature jumps on the details and case of the machine, condensate may occur. And this, in turn, often becomes the cause of the violation of the anti-corrosion protection of the car. What is needed so that the temperature regime in the garage is optimal?

Some motorists do not think about how to insulate the garage from the inside and believe that it is possible to achieve comfortable temperature conditions in the garage room, just only by installing one or more powerful heaters.

But, alas, it is not. They will be warm, but not only the garage, as well as the street, because of the heat being instended as a garage, heat will constantly disappear into the external environment.

Based on all this, the conclusion suggests: without the capital insulation of the garage, it is impossible to achieve comfortable conditions for the car. Therefore, it is necessary to find the right answer to the question: how to warm the garage? Let's deal with together.

So that warm air does not leave the interior room, and the cold, on the contrary, did not penetrate inside, it is necessary to insulate the garage with their own hands, namely, its walls and ceiling. As for the floor of the floor, here is a separate question. But we will also consider it as part of this publication. Next, consider this process in stages.

We warm the gate

• The inner surface of the gate should be processed by any antiseptic (for example, heated oliff);
• We carry out the shake of the gate with bars. The cross section of BRUSIV must be chosen in such a way that this indicator coincides with the thickness of the insulation material, which is planned to be applied (in our case is mineral wool). The distance between the bars of the roasting should correspond to the width of the insulation layer. As for the attachment of the BRUSEV themselves, there are many options here. However, we recommend fixing it with self-stairs to the gate-welded corners with holes drilled in them. If the garage is brick, then apply metal corners is not necessary. In this case, the fastening of the breadtime is performed by the same self-draws, but with the use of dowels; \\
• In the resulting broken cells insert the layers of mineral wool. The insulation for the garage should be in the lamp tightly, without gaps, but not to hurt;
• Any thin waterproofer should be put on top of mineral wool (for example, runnerdoor). This must be done because condensate in the garage is the usual matter, and our task is to prevent this condensate to the insulation. And since the insulation did not fix anything, it follows to the waterproofer to impose horizontally rakes. Racks are attached with self-draws to the bars of the root.
• From above, everything is squeezed with a thin clapboard, PCP or plywood, which are attached to all the same self-drawing directly to the bars of the root.

Warm ceiling

If you think about how to warm the garage from the inside, except for all other surfaces, you need to take care of the ceiling. Since all warm air accumulates precisely above, in order to avoid the loss of this precious heat, it is necessary to combat the inner surface of the garage roof to avoid the inner surface of the garage roof, that is, produce heat insulation of the garage from the ceiling side. Performing a garage ceiling insulation can be implemented in two ways:

1. Construct false ceiling.

• at some distance from the main ceiling along its perimeter on the walls are mounted wooden bars or guide profiles from metal. Alternatively, the ceiling profile is mounted between them or strong bars;
• we carry out the trim of the resulting frame. For these purposes, it is possible to use lining, plasterboard, boards, chipboard, plastic panels, professional flooring and other trimming materials;
• in parallel with the trim, laying of insulating material: minvats, foam or other insulation.

1. We warm the ceiling polyurethane foam

Here everything is solved literally in two stages:

• we clean the ceiling from rust, dirt, dust and various irregularities (the optimal option would be stripped the surface of the ceiling by grinding machine) and processed by degreasing means;
• after the ceiling is a kind of degreaser, we blow up the entire surface of the polyurethane foam. This insulation is good because it does not require the use of any fasteners. He himself rests evenly on any surface and flies to her very reliably.

Note: Although polyurethane foam is the most expensive insulation, we decided to give an example of the insulation of the garage ceiling them, because its thermal insulation characteristics are several times higher than those of other insulation. And its service life (up to 50 years) will save in many times in the future.

If there is an attic room over the garage, you can create an additional ceiling insulation with a clay mixture with sawdust.

Warm walls or how to insulate the walls of the garage

Making the insulation of the garage from the inside with their own hands, do not do without insulation of the walls. We propose to consider the course of these works on the example, when the insulation for the garage walls is used by foam. This material is canceled with the task of thermal insulation. If necessary, the foam is completely replaced by the Minvata. The progress of the work with such a replacement does not change. So, how to insulate a brick garage, or rather, its walls:

• Before making thermal insulation, it is necessary to make a cut from bars with a cross section of 2x2 cm or 3x3 cm. The step between them should be 800-1000 millimeters. This design should cover the entire perimeter of the wall;
• Under the doomle produced waterproofing the walls of the garage. As a waterproofer, materials such as a polyethylene film, rubberoid or professional flooring are suitable;
• Sliced \u200b\u200bstrictly in size of the cells of the drywood insulation of the walls (in our case - foam) is inserted into these cells and pressed against the wall with glue pre-applied to its surface. Cutting foaming is performed by an ordinary knife;
• Next, the foam should be protected from the exposure to the external environment. What is better to do it? Optimal for this option is the use of any sheet material. For example, GLC, plastic, GVL, plywood, etc.;
• At the joints of the sheet material should be placed the reinforced ribbon, after which, if desired, it is possible to impose plaster or other facing material.

Wall insulation can also be polyurethane.

It is performed in the same way as it was done with the ceiling. However, the wall area is large enough - it is several times the ceiling area. Therefore, given the high cost of polyurethane foam, we consider it too economically inappropriate this action and we do not recommend using this material for the insulation of garage walls.

Warm floor in the garage

Most often, the garage floor is a concrete screed without any surface sheat. This is understandable: the surface of the surface is constantly increased, plus aggressive gasoline, oil, diesel fuel and other specific fluids. We will not break such a concrete tradition and we. Let's just say that the concrete floor is also quite capable of warming up. Let's figure out how to insulate the floor in the garage:

• A layer of soil with a thickness of 45 centimeters is removed all over the area of \u200b\u200bthe garage room - in other words: the appropriate depth rotates. The bottom of the resulting deepening is thoroughly tamped;
• The rammed bottom of the pit is resurrected by any waterproofing material (for example, rubberoid). Such waterproofing allows inexpensive and qualitatively protect the floor of the garage from the effects of moisture. When it is laying, a 1-centimeter latch on the walls is done;
• Test beacons are exhibited to determine the thickness of layers of frighting. Such lighthouses can be made of sliced \u200b\u200bplug pieces, for example. Or you can use your own option for checking beacons. Fixation of beacons is made by cement mortar or can be used for these purposes plaster;
• The first clamzite layer is falling asleep, the thickness of which should be 250-300 millimeters;
• The reinforcement grid with a cell 100x100 millimeters is stacked on top of the clamping layer. Make such a mesh from the iron wire with your own hands or you have already ready to purchase - this is already a purely your choice;
• Next poured a standard sandy cement solution. When pouring the screed, you must constantly monitor in the level, so that it is strictly horizontal, without inclination, distortion, depression or bulges. The screed should be aligned and leave until complete drying. The latter can take 20-30 days.

If the concrete floor is already available and no longer want to break it, and there is also the opportunity to sacrifice 15-20 centimeters of the height of the garage room, the floor in it can be insulated with a less time-consuming, but no less efficient method. It consists of following:

• Capital cleaning of the floor is performed using a vacuum cleaner;
• The floor is covered with any waterproofer, such as a polyethylene film or rubberoid;
• The waterproofer is most closely stacked polystyrene plates with a thickness of at least 100 millimeters and the minimum allowable C-25 density;
• On top of the polystyrene, another waterproofing layer is stacked;
• The reinforcing mesh is mounted;
• Top of everything poured a screed from the same cement-sandy solution, as in the first method we considered.

So, the correct all the arrangement and uniting, we get a canceled warmer garage. At the same time, we did not need to invest in the insulation of particularly large sums of money. The output suggests the following: with true selected materials and properly performed works, the insulation of the garage walls is not so difficult and expensive, and perform the warming of the garage with their own hands - not so difficult. And in the overwhelming majority of cases, after carrying out such a complex of work, the insulation of the garage outside is no longer required.

An independent insulation of the garage from the inside makes it possible for an acceptable cost to provide optimal conditions for year-round storage of the car.

So that your car felt in the winter in the garage comfortably, you need to create special conditions for it. In the cold season, the temperature in the auto-volume should be at the level of about + 5 °. No need to natharit a garage to higher indicators, since there is a risk that the vehicle will cover "Spain" when he admits from the street of frosty air, which can cause rusting of various parts of the car.

In addition, you should take care of sufficient admission to the house for the machine of fresh air flows. In one hour, the vehicle should be blown up about 180 cubic air meters. These two requirements must be taken into account by deciding to perform the insulation of a metal or any other auto-volume.

Currently, the thermal insulation of the garage can be carried out by different materials, which are characterized by their own thermal conductivity. It should also be taken into account. Next, we give the values \u200b\u200b(in W / M * K) the thermal conductivity of popular materials, with the help of which the insulation is carried out with their own hands:

• 0.038 - mineral wool and polystyrene foam (foam);
• 0,043 - glass gamble;
• 0.171 - Ceramzit;
• 0.28 - foam concrete;
• 0.52 - ceramic brick;
• 0.64 - slagoblock.

Materials for the heat insulation of the garage

The maximum thermal conductivity (0.9) is characterized by silicate brick.

The smaller the thermal conductivity of the material, the higher the high characteristics of the thermal insulation it possesses. This means that the insulation of the garage from the inside is intelligent to produce expanded polystyrene foam, rather than bricks or slag block.

Thermal inertia also has a considerable importance. Under this concept implies the rate of increasing the temperature on the surface of a warningler. Similar words, we can say that the wall will be heated by the longer, the higher the material of the thermal inertia.

If you plan to warm up the construction, where your car is stored in winter, experts advise adhere to the general rule. It says: From the inside the walls are protected from the cold so that the thermal inertia of the materials increases (outside the inside), and the thermal conductivity - decreased. It is enough to comply with this principle, and then your garage will become a reliable chain for the vehicle.

Warming with their own hands motorists are usually carried out with the help of mineral wool, polymer and fiberglass products. They are relatively simple in installation, have good performance and have an affordable cost, which makes it possible to make the heat insulation of the garage cheaply and with a guarantee of quality.

Mineral wool is used very long ago. She has proven its effectiveness in the insulation of roads. But lately it is applied more and less. There are several reasons here:

1. Relatively high value of material.
2. Increased sensitivity of minvati to the influence of moisture (required to make waterproofing, and this, as you understand, increases the cost of warming the garage).

Mineral wool

Cheaper is glass gamble. But "minuses" of this material is even more. It is assigned to the group of flammable products, and also is afraid of high humidity. Therefore, there are few wishing to use glass gamble.

The most sought-after insulation material today is considered to be foam. It is almost completely absent. He does not miss moisture and is characterized by remarkable thermal insulation indicators, does not rot, the fungus never appears on its surface. For the price of the foam of more than "democratic". And any car enthusiast can mock it with their own hands from the inside.

The disadvantage of foam can be considered only its flammability. But this problem now went to the background. Modern manufacturers make foam, which is processed by flames in the factory. This substance carries the material immediately after its fire.

Consider how to perform the protection of the walls of the garage from the cold with the help of foam. Make it easy:

1. We make a clash from wooden boards with dimensions of 3x3 or 2x2 cm. They should be mounted around the perimeter of the wall, withstanding a step of at least 0.8 m.
2. We glue the foam to the crate made (it will be the first layer of insulation on the walls).
3. We mount another layer of heat insulator. Moreover, the second layer is fixed so that the docking seams of the layers did not coincide (that is, in a checkerboard). It has been proven that such a scheme provides maximum garage protection and cold air machines.

You insulated the walls of the Automotive from the inside, spending a minimum of time and money. It is also possible to decorate them in low-cost material - ordinary lining or plywood sheets.

Decoration of garage walls with clapboard

Protecting the walls from cold air, we can move to the thermal insulation of the garage gate. Welded structures are usually mounted on a metallic or any other autode. Such gates are made of non-foot steel (maximum 3 mm), which cannot guarantee a worthy level of insulation building.

Heat insulation entrance to the garage with your own hands is completely simple. The procedure is performed in about the same way as the insulation of the walls - with the help of foam. It must be glued as high quality and tightly - it is impossible to allow the emergence of an air layer (use the same adhesive composition that you used, warming the walls of the garage).

Now we need to make a frame of wood (afterwards, we will subsequently mount the lining of the garage). This skeleton from 6x6 wooden bars is made. Be sure to use the construction level when this work is performed. On the frame we install a small thickness board and close this gate design. They can be painted by the usual "water-emulsion" or come up with a different decoring option.

If you were able to insulate your hands, the gate and walls, difficulty with the heat insulation of the ceiling from the inside you have no need. It is important to know several nuances.

The roof and the ceiling in the garage are the same design. If your auto industry is made of foam blocks or bricks, its roof is usually performed from the slab overlap (reinforced concrete). The metal garage the ceiling is made in the form of a "skeleton" from steel corners for which iron sheets are attached. But in frame houses for cars, the ceiling is made on the beams of wood.

Ceiling Automotive on wood beams

To insulate all these types of ceiling structures by two methods:

1. Create a false ceiling and fill the space between it and the base roof of the heat insulating material.
2. Attach the insulation directly to the ceiling by the method recommended for a particular insulating material.

If you want to use foam, glue it with liquid nails to the roof of a metal or wooden garage, mounted the guides and cover the thermal insulation layer with any lightweight material. Best of all the plywood is suitable for these purposes. It is fixed to the guides.

When it is required to insulate with your own hands the ceiling of the ceiling slabs, the skeleton is mounted onto the metal corners. Adhesive compositions will not help here. Please note - you will need to fix the corners on the screws that are pre-placed in a dowel of plastic.

Most often the floors in the storage boxes are made from concrete. They are insulated before the fill of the concrete mix. The procedure for performing work is:

1. Take the excavation.
2. Make a pillow of sand (sufficient is the thickness of about 10 cm) and the trambet of it.
3. Pour a 10-centimeter layer of a concrete screed and dry it.
4. Sweep on the screed of river small sand or clayzit mixed with cement and water. Ceramzite or sand just perform the function of the insulation.
5. Desire to dry the heat insulating layer over the week, and then pour the finishing concrete floor.

Heat insulation of floors before the fill of the concrete mix

We can only add that the flooring of concrete with the insulation can be operated a month after the execution of all the procedures described. It is then that it will become truly durable.

15.06.2018

The garage protects the car from direct exposure to rain and snow. But this is not the only one that affects the state of its mechanisms. Temperature fluctuations lead to condensate. And he, in turn, the reason for the appearance of rust, fungi and mold, accumulates in the cavities of the body, damages the engine. Therefore, the task of the car owner to reduce his education to a minimum.

Draw or insulate?

When the temperature in the garage is minus, condensate freezes. And when heated, the engine begins to melt. Cycles of freezing-defrost do not benefit neither metal nor internal mechanisms.

But the heating of the room is not an optimal solution. Leaving a warm garage on the cold, we create a sharp difference in temperature. And when returning back, in the heated space, we obtain the formation of condensate even on those parts where moisture does not fall when the car is moving.

Experts argue that the best conditions for winter storage of the car are created when the thermometer bar shows + 5 ° C. The risk of corrosion under such conditions is minimal, and the temperature difference between the street and the room does not affect the car.

Accordingly, choosing between the connection to the heating system and the warming of the garage with their own hands, it is wiserfully to dwell on the second version. Especially since it will help to save on monthly accounts for energy resources.

Basic requirements for garage warming

Warring a place to store cars, it is worth remembering about a number of key moments.

• It is impossible to close the ventilation holes - any heat insulated structure also needs ventilation, as well as heated.
• Heat shield should affect not only the walls, but also the garage doors, floors, roof.
• If there is a desire to do everything according to the rules, it will be useful to study the sixth section of SNIPA 2.07.01-89. It regulates the requirements for the premises where motor vehicles are stored. Of course, when it comes to a personal garage, it is not necessary to observe them. Nevertheless, standards can help solve a number of questions.
• For the warming of the gate in most cases, internal heat protection is mounted.

How to warm: from within or outside

The most desirable type of insulation is outdoor. It protects the walls from freezing and allows them to accumulate heat.

Nevertheless, sometimes resort to the insulation of the garage from the inside. For example, when there is no returns or their walls between the garage boxes are adjacent.

Material Market Overview: Choose the Best

The first thing you have to consider when selecting the heat insulator - the type of insulation you have chosen. For example, moisture-permeable materials, wet, change their properties. Therefore, they are not a good option for external heat protection. And for internal thermal insulation, insulation, insulation, distinguishing harmful substances in the summer heat or with household heating are not suitable.

The modern market offers several types of materials for thermal insulation of the garage. Consider the main properties and characteristics of the most popular of them.

Mineral wool

Produced in the form of plates and rolls. It pretends well and has noise insulating properties. But at the same time it easily absorbs moisture - high humidity The main enemy of cotton heaters. And wet, completely loses the ability to isolate heat. Therefore, it is necessary to use high-quality hydro and vaporizolation. It is almost impossible to dry this insulation, it becomes brittle and is easily damaged. And during wetting during the installation of glass gamble, it becomes illegal and becomes unsuitable for further use (cavities appear inside it).

Considering that the cake of external insulation may be damaged or unloaded, use this material risky. In general, for vertical installation of minvat - not the best choice. It has a lot of weight and consists of fibers. Under his own weight over the years, they can see, and emptiness will be formed between them - the so-called cold bridges.

This heat insulator has two advantages: low price and as low thermal conductivity. But this is all. Only flaws begin on. Finding into lungs, particles of glass are no longer output from the body. On the skin they leave itching and irritation. When they are installed, a protective suit, a respirator and a mask, and after the end of work, is a thorough cleaning of the room. Then the day or two will have to wait until the glass dust is asced, not visible.

If at least a partial damage to the protective layer of films or foil material occurred during operation, again it will be necessary to rent overalls and after completion of the repair, resort to cleaning.

Well, finally, the material gives shrinkage and does not differ in durability. Therefore, it does not matter what kind of insulation you preferred: internal or external, it is better not to stop at this option.

Styrofoam

This material is very popular due to its cheapness and ease of installation. It saves warmth well and serves as one decade. It can be mounted independently, without having a special tool, no special construction skills at hand. But I won't call it an ideal solution. Although not as much as Minvat, but it absorbs moisture. Very easy damaged and crumbs. Its granules have low clutch strength, so over the years they can fly even with random pressure on the material.

But the main thing is not even this. On the market there is a huge amount of incorrect foam in connection with great demand for it. Find high-quality and safe product - the task is not simple. And the one that is produced with a violation of technology, with the rise of temperature and toxic substances begins to distinguish the solar rays. Considering that the garage is a closed space, it is fraught with major health problems for car owner.

Penopelex (extruded polystyrene foam)

Perhaps, for the insulation of the garage from the inside, with their own hands is the optimal option. It is acceptable for the price, it is even easier than the foam - the joints do not need to be sealed with foam, because they have M-shaped grooves. It is easy to cut and can be glued straight on the wall.

But the most important, of course, this is his ability to thermal insulation - one of the best among modern materials. Moreover, it remains unchanged in any situations. Penopelex does not wet (the coefficient of moisture absorption less than 0.4% in 28 days) is not afraid of freezing cycles and serves more than 50 years.

It is resistant to compression, does not give a shrinkage, absorbs the noise, does not rot, insects are not breeding in it, and to top it all is a homogeneous mass of the polymer without individual granules. It provides him with high strength even after many years after the work performed.

Summarizing all of the above, we conclude that this material is ideal for both external and internal insulation.

Reflective thermal insulation

It is a foil material that in itself has quite modest heat insulating characteristics and a small thickness. It reflects the infrared radiation well, which means it makes sense to apply it only for heated premises. If there is no source of heat, there will be a few benefit from it. Therefore, as a rule, it is used only as an additional means of heat shields when applying other materials. For example, Penoplas.

How to insulate the garage outside - step by step instructions

For external work it is most convenient to use hard slabs. The cheapest option is the foam. Penopelex is more expensive, but much more efficiently in terms of moisture resistance, heat shields, service life and strength. Therefore, we consider the order of installation of this particular material. However, it is almost no different from the technology of insulating foam.

We will need:

• glue (best branded penplex, since its composition is specially adapted to this insulation and does not destroy it);
• a spatula for applying glue or a special pistol;
• a langer knife or an electric lobby for cutting sheets;
• fastening disc elements (4 pieces per plate).

Step 1. We prepare the walls.

Clean them from old paint, dirt, dust, web and other things. You can walk the primer so that the glue is better grabbed. But this is an optional moment.

Step 2.Fix the bottom bar.

For plates, it is characteristic of starting installation from the ground. I fix the starting profile on the dowel and proceed to laying the material in a checker order.

Step 3.Solar fasteners.

This is simple: we apply glue with stripes on the stove and apply to the wall. G-shaped grooves connect with each other, due to this, a dense fit of the material without gaps is ensured. When the glue dries, for greater reliability, fix the sheet with plate dowels.

Step 4. Final work.

To protect Penopelex from ultraviolet and giving the facade of greater aesthetics, plastering walls or close siding, CSP, other material.

Technology: how to insulate the garage from the inside with their own hands

As you can see, even an unprepared person will cope with an external insulation. However, internal works also do not constitute a special complexity.

Floor insulation

It can be done in different ways. One of the most simple and easy-to-see options is insulating Penopelex under the tie. For this floor will need to raise a bit. It will reduce the height of the room, but it is not necessary to dig meat - you can mount the heat insulator on the already existing floor. The order of work is simple.

1. We purify the surface, we make a cement-sand tie (CPS) or align the coating with the help of building mixtures. It is important that the differences did not exceed 5 mm.

2. At the next stage, fondama® is placed directly on the floor without using glue and dowels. You can put insulated material into one or more layers.

3. To distribute the upcoming point loads, it is necessary to pour with a concrete solution or a self-determined mixture with a thickness of 40 mm. In this case, the insulation isolate the film isolate, and its seams reliably fasten the scotch. There are 1-2 cm of an empty space between the wall and the screed, to take into account the temperature expansion and continue to make noise insulation by filling it with foamed polyethylene.

4. The finish is stacked by the finishing floor.

Heat insulation ceiling with a garage insulation from the inside

The order of work is about the same as with the walls. We stick the sheets of Penopelax® comfort, fasten the dowels, we complement the vapor insulating film, shap, close with finishing material, and the heat shield is ready.

Warming of the walls of the garage from the inside with their own hands

It can be carried out by the same principle as for external walls, only using a vapor barrier film that is stacked on top of the heat insulator.

Protection of the gate

Many are faced with the problem of seasonal "walking" of pillars (the base of the gate), which is why they are not closed. The best solution - when installing the gate, protect their base (pillars) from the freezing. If you have already mounted ordinary iron gates, they must also be thermally insulated from the inside. If you can attach sheets on a dowel to the material from which the gate is made, it is worth doing this. If not, the usual adhesive method is suitable. Already the glued insulation is closed first with a vaporizolation film, then the outer sheaving. To enhance thermal protection, you can use foil polyethylene.

Thus, the correct selection of thermal insulation material makes the insulation of the garage with a fairly simple process, which can be carried out at each.

Modern thermal insulation materials allow you to perform a high-quality integrated garage insulation with your own hands. Thanks to competently organized internal insulation, almost constant temperature will be maintained in the garage, which is favorable to affect the service life of the finishing materials and in general, which is located in the room.

There is nothing complicated in independent insulation. Just learn the instructions and do everything in accordance with the recommendations received.

At such insulation does not need to spend a lot of money, but it is necessary to allocate time on the digging of a depth of about 45 cm.

First step. Place the rubberoid or other waterproofing material in the prepared pit. The material is stacked with a 10-centimeter adhesive on the walls.

The second step. Place the beacons that you will be oriented when performing frosting. Typically, the function of beacons performs sliced \u200b\u200bfittings. You can use any other suitable materials. Secure lighthouses with plaster or cement mortar.

Third step. Put a 25-30 centimeter layer of clay. Gradually remove lighthouses and fall asleep deepening from them.

Fourth step. Place the reinforcement grid. Traditionally, a mesh with cells 10x10 cm can be bought or made independently made of metal wire.

Fifth step. Fill the screed. Use standard cement-sandy mortar. For greater convenience, you can pre-install lighthouses. It is important that the screed is absolutely horizontal. Align the fill and let it dry. Create any load on the floor is recommended for at least one month after pouring the screed.

If you wish, you can abandon the digging of the pit and clamzit, using the simple insulation technology using the polystyrene plates. Disadvantage - the height of the room will decrease by about 20 cm. But the insulation can be laid directly on the existing floor.

First step. Thoroughly spend and sweep the surface.

The second step. Place the polyethylene film or other waterproofing material, for example, rubberoid.

Third step. Maximen as well to each other, put the plates of polystyrene foam. The thickness of the foam should be at least 10 cm. The minimum allowable density is C-25.

Fourth step. Lay on top of the foam one layer of moisture insulating material.

Fifth step. Place the reinforcing grid.

Sixth step. Fill the screed. Follow the recommendations received in the instructions for insulation with clay.

The advantage of this option is that the thermal insulation "steals" only 10 cm of the room height. Suitable foam of any density, because In the future, he does not have to hurt any loads. It is more convenient to use 100x50x5 sheets. For flooring. Use 5 cm thick boards.

Choose the width and length at your discretion. Also prepare the 5x5 cm ram for laying lags. Neither lags, no boards to the floor will not be attached. The flooring will be slightly "walking", but in the future with the replacement of rotten and broken boards there will be no difficulty.

First stage. Thoroughly spend and sweep the floor.

Second phase. Alternately lay on the floor of the lags and sheets of foam. The walls should lie in lags.

Third stage. Cover the insulation with a layer of vapor barrier film.

Fourth stage. Place wooden boards with a solid flooring. Suitable an ordinary unstage board. From using tipped boards for such work it is better to refuse, because Without hard attachment, they quickly deform.

After the insulation of the floor, proceed to the thermal insulation device of the garage gate. First, it is recommended to make a simple thermal veil from available materials, namely the polyethylene film with a thickness of 0.8 mm.

First step . Take polyethylene and cut it into stripes. Pick the length of the stripes so that when fixing from the top of the loading opening, their lower edge has not pulled to the floor approximately 1.5 cm. The bandwidth is kept in the range of 20-30 cm.

The too narrow bands will cling to the elements of the car, for example, external mirrors. Too wide, they will interfere normally enter and leave the garage. The proposed width is the most optimal.

The second step. Fasten a wooden rail on top of a portable opening.

Third step. Attach the polyethylene stripes to the rake. To do this, it is convenient to use a building stapler. You can navigate cloves. Stripes are fastened with overlap about 20 mm.

On this, the thermal insulation of the gate does not end. Polyethylene veil will only help reduce the amount of heat leaving through the open gate. To achieve the maximum effect, the design needs additional insulation. Usually, the foam is used for this.

First step. Attach the plastic film to the goal with any way convenient to you.

The second step. Set the wooden framework over the waterproofing. It can be collected from the rail or timber. The main thing is that the width of the component element approximately corresponded to the thickness of the foam used. Bruks are attached at such a distance so that the sheets of the insulation lay between them as close as possible.

Third step. Process the frame elements with a heated oliff or special antiseptic agent.

Fourth step. Place the foam between the bars of the crate. The foam itself is attached to the surface with glue. It is desirable that the glue is waterproof. Sheets should most closely lie down to the canvas of the garage gate.

Fifth step. Take a balloon of the mounting foam and compact the joints between the insulation plates.

Sixth step. Close the thermal insulation is more dense than the foam material, for example, a thin clapboard or other non-heavy material.

For the inner warming of the garage walls, the plates of foam plates are best suited. It is simple in laying, inexpensive and efficient heat insulator.

The first step is to prepare the walls. Remove the available coating. With its absence, clean the surface from the existing pollution. Get defects with putty. Putty align the walls. Polyfoam laying technology requires that the base is as even as possible, therefore pay special attention to this moment.

The second step is to process surfaces.Be sure to treat the walls with a special antifungal composition and cover the primer. Thanks to the primer, a higher-quality clutch of the insulation plates with the base will be provided.

Third step - laying of thermal insulation.In most cases, there are enough plates with a thickness of 10 cm. For cold northern regions, the thickness of the heat insulation layer can be increased. Apply glue to the insulation sheet designed to work with such material. You can apply a solid layer or point. Before laying out the first row of insulation, lift a wooden bar to the wall. For fixing, use a dowel.

Thanks to this element, the mechanism of installation of plates will be ensured. Attach foam with glue to the wall and press tightly. Additionally, each slab must be fixed with dowels in the amount of 3-4 pieces.

The fourth step is to enhance thermal insulation.Cover the surface sufficiently thick layer of glue (about 25-30 mm) and climb the reinforcing grid in it.

The fifth step is shuffling.The thickness of the plaster layer should be such that the finishing completely covers the reinforcing mesh, and the coating was as even as possible.

At the end of the wall, you need to paint or sew finishing material to choose from the owner.

At the end you need to equip the thermal insulation of the garage overlap. The order of fastening of thermal insulation sheets will vary depending on the characteristics of the roof design. In the event that the design is made from the boards, it will be enough will be simply to kill the foam plate to it with dowels like "umbrella" or nails. Polyethylene film is placed over the insulation. It must be attached to the boards with long screws.

In case, if the overlap is made of concrete, insulation will require the preliminary framework of the frame. An ordinary doom is made, already familiar to you from previous sections instructions. In between bar of the frame, the insulation is stacked between the frame bar. First, it is fixed with the available means, for example, adhesive tape, and then pressed sheets of the sheath. The finish cover is fastened with the frame with the help of nails, dowels or other suitable fasteners.

Instead of polyfoam, you can use mineral wool. The technology remains the same. The only one, before laying the plates to the surface, you need to attach the waterproofing material, for example, polyethylene, and the plated plates are coated with vaporizolation material.

On this, thermal insulation works can be finished. If you wish, you can finish finishing with your favorite materials.

Good job!

Video - Garage insulation from the inside with their own hands

The insulation of the garage is a process that today concerns many owners of this small structure. Everyone began to understand that in the warm room, the car remains much longer. Therefore, in this article we will tell about the methods of insulation than to insulate the garage from the inside and outside, at what moments of the insulation process should be paid first.

Warmed from the inside garage, covered with OSP plates Source ROOMESTER.RU

How best to warm: outside or from inside

For all building canons, the optimal option is insulation outside. The thing is that the boundary between thermal insulation material and the trim is the zone where condensate is formed. And if you do insulation from the inside, this zone falls between the insulation and the walls of the garage. At the same time, the latter are fluent in winter fully (through), which negatively affects the construction material itself. Plus, condensate, which reduces the performance characteristics of any building material.

This is the first reason. The second is the possibility of not to reduce the useful space in the garage. The insulation laid on the walls occupies some place. This will have to add the thickness of the trim. That is, on each side, on the walls, the reduction will occur by 3-5 cm.

The third reason makes it possible to not pay attention to the environmental friendliness of the thermal insulation material. It will be located with an external, street side, which means that the insulation allocates substances harmful to humans, they will immediately disappear. At the same time, such materials are much cheaper than eco-friendly.

Warming garage outside Source Remstroiblog.ru.

But it is not always possible to carry out insulation of the walls of the garage outside. If for some reason it is impossible to do this, then all work on thermal insulation is carried by inside.

Review of the thermal insulation materials market

Before moving to the process of insulation of the garage design, we will tell about insulation. About those that are used today for this purpose. There is a fairly large layer of building materials of this type, which builders are used today. There are traditional materials here, there are recently emerged, but already gained popularity.

Mineral wool

This insulation is used in construction for a long time. At the very beginning of its appearance, it was a roll type material. Today it is still published in this performance, but the modern form of Minvati is plates. They are called mineral wool slabs.

It should be noted that a largely wide list of materials is used as raw materials in mineral wool slabs. But the insulation based on basalt is very popular. This thermal insulation material is presented on the market with plates of different density and thickness. This makes it easier to choose from the required characteristics.

Mineral wool plates - Survived insulation Source 2gis.kz

The only drawback of Minvati is hygroscopicity. That is, this material absorbs moisture well, while losing its heat engineering characteristics. That this does not occur, the thermal insulation layer from two sides is closed with waterproofing films. Today, manufacturers offer moisture-resistant plates from mineral wool, in which hygroscopicity is reduced to the maximum. This makes it possible to abandon waterproofing.

It will not tell about all the technical characteristics of mineral wool. Denote the most significant, according to which it is necessary to choose the insulation. This is the thermal conductivity of the material.

On a note! Thermal conductivity is the property of the material or body to transmit heat. The lower this parameter, the better in terms of insulation.

So here at the mineral wool this characteristic is 0.035-0.04 W / m K.

Polystyrene foam plates

Many call this material with foam, which is fundamentally incorrect, although both materials are included in the group of foam plastic masses made of polystyrene. Just foam - material originally created for packaging. He has low density and low thermal insulation qualities. What you can not say about polystyrene foam, which was originally developed as thermal insulation material.

Polystyrene foam plates moisture resistant Source www.stroyportal.ru.

This foamed insulation has serious advantages:

• thermal conductivity - 0.028-0.034 W / m to;
• extruded option does not absorb moisture;
• passes through itself air;
• strength - 1 kg / cm²;
• inerton to many chemicals;
• on the surface of the insulation do not live mold and fungi;
• this one good sound insulator;
• life time - 30 years.

But there are polystyrene foam plates and its shortcomings. And the most important of them fire hazard. The insulation is well lit and supports burning, highlighting caustic smoke. Today manufacturers try to change the situation with this indicator. Fire-resistant plates have already appeared on the market, but they are not so much.

And one more thing to pay attention to, choosing expanded polystyrene as a heater. This is a material brand. Optimal for the garage option - PSB-C-35 (40) - self-tapping, with a density of 40 kg / m³. Plate thickness should not be less than 50 mm.

PSB-C-35 polystyrene foam plates Source karkasdomproekt.ru.

Polyurene Foolder

This is a two-component material whose ingredients are mixed before applying. In its physical state, this is a foamed semi-free mass, which solidifies the air, forming a hydrophobic layer on the insulated surface. That is not afraid of moisture.

For applying polyurethane foam requires special equipment. It is applied under pressure from the hose with a nozzle. High adhesive characteristics of the material give it the opportunity to adhere to any surfaces that are pre-cleaned from dirt and rust. At the same time, the mixture fills all the slots, gaps and holes.

This is a non-combustible insulation. Service life - 50 years. Heat conductivity - 0.019-0.028 W / m K. Moisture absorption is minimal - 1.2%.

Layer of infused polyurethane foam source Foamshop.ru

Warm plaster

This plaster solution received its name because it makes particles of heat-insulating material. These may be polystyrene granules, the so-called crumb, vermiculite (foamed stone breed of volcanic origin), sawdust and other ingredients.

In fact, such a plaster mixture has higher thermal insulation characteristics than ordinary plaster. But to achieve a good effect, the material must be applied a sufficiently thick layer. It is used for the insulation of the garage from the inside, and for thermal insulation outside. It is clear if the garage is erected from bricks, blocks or concrete slabs. For metal design, this option is unacceptable.

On the wall, warm plaster is applied with a thick layer source TK101.RU

So, we considered the main thermal insulation materials, which today most often use, carrying out the warming of the garage construction. Of course, this is not the entire list of options offered. Just these use more often.

Most often, many consumers are looking for how to insulate the garage from within an inexpensive. The table shows the price comparison on the insulation described.

The price fork for each material is wide enough. This is explained by the fact that the pricing is based on the thickness of the insulation, its density is laid. It can be seen from the table that the most inexpensive option is Minvat and polystyrene foam plates.

The most economical thermal insulation materials Source Krysha-expert.ru.

Insulation technology

Having understood with the question than to insulate the garage, go directly to the process itself. Let's start with external insulation. The easiest option is plastered. Everything is quite simple here. Warm plaster is applied to the outer surfaces of the genuine walls according to standard technology. That is, they pounce on the surface of the Kelma and align the rules on the mounted beacons.

There is a variant of mechanized plaster. For this, special stations are used in which the plaster mixture is prepared and from it immediately carry out application for walls under pressure. In this way, warming and inside of the room can be carried out.

Video Description

In order not to go into the details of the technological process, we offer to watch a video in which it is described how it is necessary to apply warm plaster on the wall in two ways:

Polystyrene foam plates for outdoor insulation

If the garage is erected from brick or blocks, the plates of polystyrene can simply be attached to the wall surfaces, laying them tightly to each other. There are two ways to fastening:

• on mushroom sams or more precisely on a dowel-nails for insulating materials;
• on the glue composition.

Usually use the first, because the glue for expanded polystyrene is an expensive thing. It is sold in the cans. The contents are applied to the opposite side of the plates in the corners and in the middle. And then just pressed against the wall.

As for the self-tapping screws, these are special plastic fasteners consisting of two parts: a dowel and a nail. Under the first through the insulation in the wall they make a hole, where the dowel is inserted. At the same time, its wide hat will hold the heat insulating plate. After that, the second part is clogged into it, which cuts the first.

Dowel-nail for insulating plates Source de .DecorexPro.com.

Usually, two fasteners are used for each plate. When laying thermal insulation, it is very important to ensure that there are no gaps and gaps between its elements. It is optimal for this to use plates with a lock-spit lock. If conventional plates are used with smooth edges, then when forming gaps between them, the latter are filled with special foam. It looks like an assembly, only in the air does not expand in volume.

How to fasten the plates of polystyrene to the wall of mushroom-like nails Source StroyFora.ru

Interesting is the fact that the wall insulated polystyrene foam can be placed. For this, the plaster synthetic grid is plastering and the plaster layer is applied. You can set the insulation and under the ventilated facade, for which you will have to first collect the framework, it is to lay thermal insulation, and on top of installing the finishing material. In the photo above, this option of finishing and insulation of the external walls of the garage is shown.

Mineral wool for outdoor insulation

For mineral wool slabs, it is better to build a ventilated facade. That is, a frame of a garage is assembled on the walls of the garage, or from metal galvanized profiles used to install plasterboard sheets. It is better to use moisture-resistant option. But even when it is used, the thermal insulation layer is recommended to close the waterproofing membrane.

Insulation of the walls of the garage minvata outside Source Pt.DecorexPro.com.

Here is the sequence of assembling a warmed ventilated facade:

1. On the wall are attached direct suspensionswhich will be installed elements of the crate. The distance between them vertically and horizontally 50-60 cm.
2. Installation of insulation. No matter what width is this material. It can easily be installed directly on the mounted suspensions by making the hole with a knife. The main thing is to tightly install mineral wool plates to each other.
3. Installation of clamping elements.
4. Laying waterproofing In the form of horizontal membrane bands, which are attached to the frame and spread back to each other. The joints necessarily fasten the self-adhesive ribbon.
5. Installation of the trim: Siding, decorative plates and so on.

There is a frameless version of the insulation of the walls of the garage. For this, minvatu or polystyrene foam plates are attached to the walls of a dowel-nail. And then they are trimmed with brick. Under the last will have to fill the non-fountain foundation.

External garage insulation with subsequent cladding brick Source SKB21.ru

Inner warming of garage

In principle, everything that has been described above can be transferred inside the garage building. These technologies are also applicable here. The only one was not marked polyurethane foam. There are least problems with him. If the garage is brick or block, then pre-on the walls install the crate at which the finish will be subsequently. It is better to use wooden bars here, which are attached to the walls using self-tapping and dowels.

The foam is applied with a layer equal to the thickness of the frame elements. After the frozen on the processed surfaces, a seamless heat-insulating layer with sufficiently high strength is formed.

By the way, it is in this way that the garages assembled from metal profiles and sheet iron are conveniently and effectively.

Insulation garage polyurethane foam from the inside Source Garage-S.ru

Warming from the inside of the metal garage

This construction is a frame of a steel corner or a profile pipe, covered outside with metal sheets or professional flooring. That is, it turns out that the carcass of the garage is located inside. And it automatically becomes a frame for decoration. So between the trim and the outer sheel, the thermal insulation layer can be laid.

If polystyrene foam plates are used, they are fixed to the steel surface with adhesive composition. The main requirement for installing is the tight fit of the plates to each other.

Iron Garage, Engineered from the inside of polystyrene foam plates - Before finishing Source Isolux.ru

If mineral wool is used, they are not glued to the metal. To do this, pick up the stoves in the width so that they come together between the elements of the frame in the tension. If the distance between the grade elements is larger than the maximum width of the insulation, then wooden bars are installed in the garage frame, reducing the distance.

And as for the polyurethane foam. This is the optimal option for insulation from the inside of the garage.

Video Description

The video shows how the garage is insulated by polyurethane foam:

Floor insulation and ceiling in the garage

Floor is the easiest. This is a thick concrete screed, which is necessary to simply lay the insulation. More often for this use clay. Do it like this:

1. At the installation site of the garage digging boilers depth up to 50 cm.
2. In it fall asleep rubble layer 15 cm.
3. Then sand Layer 15 cm with a dump.
4. Covered runneroid in two perpendicular layers.
5. Claims are falling asleep.
6. Another waterproofing layer.
7. Put the reinforcing lattice from steel reinforcement.
8. Poured concrete.

You can not fall asleep clamzit, and instead of concrete, use a clay-concrete solution. It is possible to fall asleep perlite instead of a ceramzite or put polystyrene foam plates.

Layers of warmed garage Source Mirstrojka.ru.

As for the insulation of the ceiling, everything will depend on what this building element of the garage design is.

1. If this concrete slab overlap, It is better to collect a suspended construction in which the insulation is laying. You can apply warm plaster.
2. If this metal roof, it is optimal - to process its polyurethane foam.
3. Since the roof of the metal garage is assembled, like the walls, in the form of a frame that is covered with an outer side, then between elements of the crates can be laid slab insulation. The technology is the same as on the walls.

Video Description

The video shows one of the options for insulation of the garage ceiling:

Conclusion on the topic

Thermal insulation of the garage is minimal costs, even if you use expensive polyuretiece. The main task is to carry out the above processes correctly, taking into account the construction of the construction and characteristics of insulation. But for this it is recommended to turn to professionals that will fulfill all the work quickly and efficiently.